Bernina 2500DCET Owner's Manual

Instruction Manual
Overlocker / Serger
2500
DCET
Umschlag_GB.indd 1 10.10.2007 16:18:59 Uhr
Contents
6
11
14
23
24
30
31
35
38
42
48
51
53
55
57
58
59
60
61
67
70
71
72
74
76
77
78
5
Details of the machine
Setting up the machine
Functions and general operating instructions
Needles, thread, fabric
Stitch chart and stitch selection
Threading instructions for overlock, cover/chain stitch and top & bottom cover stitch
Overlock threading
Overlock test sewing and fine tuning
Cover/chain- and top & bottom cover stitch functions and general instructions
Cover stitch threading
Top & bottom cover stitch threading
Top & bottom cover stitch / Cover stitch test sewing and fine tuning
Chain stitch threading (position G)
Chain stitch test sewing and fine tuning
Converting from overlock to cover/chain stitch
Converting from cover stitch position F (4 thread cover stitch) top & bottom cover stitch (position H)
Converting from top & bottom cover stitch (position H) to cover/chain stitch position F
(4 thread cover stitch)
Converting from cover/chain stitch to overlock
Overlock practical sewing, needles and threads
Cover stitch/ top & bottom cover stitch practical sewing
Chain stitch practical sewing
Maintenance
Trouble shooting
Index
Technical information
Optional Accessories
Bernina publications
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Details of the machine
6
View from the front
1 Stitch selection dial 2 Stitch display 3 Cloth plate/free arm 4 Stitch plate 5 Standard presser foot with tape guide 6 Cover stitch extension plate 7 Needle clamp 8 Sewing light
9 Needle stop 10 Safety control light 11 Carrying handle 12 Thread guide 13 Thread guide support 14 Support rod 15 Differential feed dial 16 Stitch length dial 17 Handwheel 18 Foot control socket 19 Machine socket 20 Power switch 21 Looper cover 22 Lower looper fine tuning (purple) 23 Needle R fine tuning (brown) 24 Needle C fine tuning (green) 25 Needle L fine tuning (yellow)
View from the front
26 Wiper fine tuning (grey) 27 Thread guide 28 Thread eyelet 29 Feeding link guide 30 Wiper 31 Finger guard 32 Wiper activating lever 33 Upper knife arm screw
BERNINA 2500DCET cover/chain stitch mode
BERNINA 2500DCET top & bottom cover stitch mode
25 24 23 22
16 15 20 17 19 18
21
12 13
10
9 8
7 3
4 5
6
14
2
1
11
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29 30
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Details of the machine
7
View from the front
1 Stitch selection dial
2 Stitch display
3 Cloth plate/free arm
4 Stitch plate
5 Standard presser foot with tape guide
6 Knife guard
7 Needle clamp
8 Sewing light
9 Needle stop 10 Safety control light 11 Carrying handle 12 Thread guide 13 Thread guide support 14 Support rod 15 Differential feed dial 16 Stitch length dial 17 Handwheel 18 Foot control socket 19 Machine socket 20 Power switch 21 Looper cover 22 Lower looper fine tuning (red) 23 Upper looper fine tuning (blue) 24 Needle C fine tuning (green) 25 Needle L fine tuning (yellow) 26 Cutting width dial 27 Roll hem selection lever 28 Cutting lines 29 Waste collector
30 Wiper fine tuning (grey) 31 Thread guide 32 Thread eyelet 33 Feeding link guide 34 Wiper 35 Finger guard 36 Wiper activating lever
BERNINA 2500DCET overlock mode
BERNINA 2500DCET overlock mode (Detailed)
25 24 23 22
16 15 17 19 18
21
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10
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6 5
3 4 26
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11
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1
20
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36
30
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32
A
3
2
4
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Details of the machine
8
View from the back
38 Thread stand 39 Foam pad 40 Spool stabilizers 41 Spool pin 42 First thread guide 43 Presser foot pressure control 44 Presser foot lifter 45 Light switch 46 Thread cutter 47 Foot control 48 Power cord
BERNINA 2500DCET overlock mode
41
40
39 38
42
43
44 45 46
47 48
Foot control:
Model Nr. YC-425
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7
1
2 3 5 6
4
8
2 3 1 4 6 5
Details of the machine
10
Accessories
All other accessories are stored in the accessory bag and box.
1 Spool caps 2 Nets 3 Spare knife 4 Bulb holder 5 Large screwdriver 6 Oiler 7 Accessory bag 8 Dust cover
9 Deco guide 10 Seam guide right 11 Needle set JLx2 (3x 80) 12 Cover stitch presser foot * 13 Cover/chain stitch extension plate 14 Standard foot with tape guide 15 Knife guard
* Cover stitch presser foot
Instructions for using the cover stitch presser foot (compensating foot) are on page 16.
Cover stitch: Depending on whether your machine is delivered in overlock or cover stitch mode, either of the accessories 13, 14 or 15 will be attached to the machine.
1
2
3 4
5
6
7
9
8
11
15
10
13
14
12
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Setting up the machine
11
Attaching the foot control
2 1 3
5
4
2500DCET
Plug the foot control into the machine socket (1) on the right side of the machine. Plug the power cord into the machine socket (2) and into the mains socket (3).
Sewing speed
Decrease or increase the pressure on the electronic foot control for fully variable speed control.
The maximum sewing speed for: Overlock stitch mode A to E 1500 s.p.m. Cover/chain stitch mode F and G 800 s.p.m. Top&botom cover stitch mode H 500 s.p.m.
The maximum sewing speeds are automatically set by the stitch selection dial.
Thread stand
Push the support rod firmly into the socket on the back of the machine.
Raise the support rod (4) fully, turning slightly until the positioning catches engage. Position the thread guide (5) on the thread stand so that it is parallel to the machine.
Warning
This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized main socket only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the polarized main socket , reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper polarized main socket. Do not modify the plug in any way (for USA, Canada only). For the BERNINA 2500DCET use only the foot control model YC-425 (USA, Canada).
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Setting up the machine
12
Waste collector
Hang the waste collector onto the opening provided on the looper cover. It catches the cut-off fabric as you sew, keeping your working area neat and tidy.
Thread, cones, spools
Cones or domestic spools in all sizes can be used on your BERNINA overlocker.
Remove the stabilizers for household spools, but secure the spools with the spool holder caps, rounded side downwards.
When sewing with large industrial spools, use the stabilizers upside down, i.e. with the wider edge at the top.
Place the stabilizers on the spool pins when using thread cones.
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Setting up the machine
13
Placing the spool holder for the top & bottom cover stitch thread
Lift the foam pad (A), slide the guide tabs (C) of the spool holder (B) into the guide of the upperside of the spool holder from left to right into position (E) and press until tab (D) clicks into the underside of rib (F).
B
D
C
A
E F
D
C
E
F
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14
Functions and general operating instructions
1
2
Power switch
The power switch is on the handwheel side of the machine in front of the machine socket.
O = OFF
I=ON
Light switch
The light switch is positioned on the rear left side of the machine to the left of the presser foot lifter.
1=ON 2 = OFF
Electronics/Safety/Needle stop
Your Bernina overlocker is equipped with electronic operating and safety features.
Micro-safety switch:
When the looper cover is open, the electricity supply to the motor is automatically interrupted. The machine will not sew but the light remains on for threading etc.
Needle stop:
The Needle stop for overlock stitches (positions A to E) is generally up, i.e. when you stop sewing, the needle(s) will stop in their highest position, the ideal position for threading or changing needles. To lower the needle(s), press the Needle stop button (3).
The Needle stop for cover and chain stitch (positions F/G/H) is generally down, i.e. cover and chain stitch formations end with the needle in the fabric.
Safety control lamp:
The machine will not sew if it has not been prepared correctly. When the foot control is depressed, the safety control lamp will light up (4).
The control lamp also lights up when the presser foot is raised, when the presser foot is swung out or the looper cover is open.
Safety cut-out
If overheating should occur, the motor will cut-out after 2 seconds, after cooling down, sewing can be continued.
Note: If you turn the stitch selection dial while sewing, the control lamp will blink and the machine will stop.
4
3
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Functions and general operating instructions
15
15
15
Handwheel
The handwheel turns counter-clockwise as on a household sewing machine.
Looper cover
To open the looper cover, press to the right and tilt the cover towards you. To close the cover, push it up and press lightly to the left and it will engage automatically.
Cloth plate / free-arm
The cloth plate can be removed to expose the free arm.
To remove pull to the left.
To attach press firmly to the right until it engages.
The free arm is ideal for sewing tubular items such as ribbing, trousers and sleeve hems.
Two-step presser foot lifter
The presser foot lifter is positioned on the rear of the machine above the presser foot.
To raise the presser foot, lift the presser foot lifter until it engages (1).
It can be raised again to maximum height and held in this position to provide more space between presser foot and stitch plate for bulky items. (2). Press the lifter down to lower the presser foot.
Note: When the presser foot is raised, all the tensions are released making it easier to thread the machine.
WARNING: If sewing in top & bottom cover stitch mode, when lifting the presser foot to its highest position (2), do not use any force.
1
2
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16
Functions and general operating instructions
Swing-out presser foot
The swing-out foot (exclusive by BERNINA) provides easy access for threading needles. It also makes it easier to change the needles and insert band or elastic into the guide on the foot.
To swing out:
· Raise the needles (Needle stop).
· Raise the presser foot and swing it out to the left.
To position for sewing:
· Push the foot from left to right until it engages.
· Lower the presser foot.
Note: The machine will not run when the foot is swung-out. An additional safety measure to prevent damage to needle(s) or machine.
Note: Cover stitch compensating foot: To prevent damaging the needle points, the cover stitch foot (accessory) should not be swung out.
Changing the presser foot
· Raise the needles (Needle stop)
· Raise the presser foot.
· Press the catch (1) to release the presser foot from the
clamp (2) and remove it to the left.
1
2
3
To attach the foot, place it under the shaft. The groove in the shaft should line up exactly with the presser foot pin (3). Lower the shank and the presser foot engages automatically.
The cover stitch presser foot (compensating foot – accessory) is used together with the seam guide lines on the extension plate and for work where precise guiding is necessary.
The cover stitch presser foot consists of a solid centre section and two spring-loaded side sections. The indents on the centre section (1) indicate the needle positions and act as guides. The spring-loaded side sections (2) guide the fabric and prevent sideways movement. Perfect for topstitching hems with elastic, folded edges, seams and ribbings as well as bindings or sewing on lace or elastic.
Note: Cover stitch compensating foot: To prevent damaging the needle points, the cover stitch foot (accessory) should not be swung out.
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18
Functions and general operating instructions
Cutting width
Narrower cutting width:
If the edges of fine fabrics curl when being sewn, reduce the cutting width by turning the dial to a lower number.
Wider cutting width:
If the loops formed on the fabric edge are too loose, increase the cutting width by turning the dial to a higher number.
Differential feed
Your BERNINA overlocker is equipped with a front (1) and a rear (2) feed dog. The two feed dogs move independently, and the distance each feed dog travels can be adjusted independently.
2
1
2
1.5
N (1)
0.7
Gathering effect
This is the most common use for differential feed and is to prevent waving or fluting in knits or puckers in fine woven fabrics.
The distance travelled by the front feed dog is greater than that of the rear feed dog. The front feed dog pushes the amount of fabric which the rear feed dog can take up unstretched (knit) or unpuckered (fine wovens) behind the needle(s) (e.g. 1.5 and 2).
Stretching effect
The opposite effect can be produced to prevent fine nylon jerseys or closely woven fabrics from puckering.
The distance travelled by the rear feed dog is greater than that of the front feed dog. The front feed dog holds the fabric back so that the rear feed dog can take up the fabric (slightly stretched) behind the needle(s). (e.g. 0.7).
Adjusting the differential feed
Simply turn the dial in the direction desired for fully variable adjustments while sewing. Test sew.
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Functions and general operating instructions
19
19
19
Setting 2 1.5 N 0.7
Effect Gathering effect, Gathering effect, Normal feed Stretching effect,
flat seams flat seams pucker free seams
Overlock Thick or loose Fine to medium Woven fabrics Nylon jerseys,
knits, hand- knits weight knits, e.g. closely woven
sweatshirt, fabrics e.g velours, interlock Charmeuse,
linings, satin, poplin.
4 thread Thick or loose Fine to medium Knits with the grain Sewing over seams cover stitch knits, hand-knits weight knits
(5 thread top & bottom cover stitch)
3 thread Thick or loose Fine to medium Knits with the grain sewing over seams cover stitch knits, hand-knits weight knits
(5 thread top & bottom cover stitch)
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20
Functions and general operating instructions
Presser foot pressure
The presser foot pressure ensures perfect fabric feed. It is factory adjusted to a medium setting.
Adjusting the pressure:
Push the lever in the direction desired.
H High pressure: For thick or stiff fabrics such as denim,
tweed, linen and for sewing on elastic.
N Normal pressure: Basic setting for most normal overlock
work.
L Low pressure: For light-weight or sheer fabrics such as
chiffon, georgette, batiste, linings.
Note: Seams in knitted fabrics will wave if the presser foot pressure is too high. Always set to «N» when sewing knits.
Upper knife
Raise the needle(s) to their highest position (needle stop). Open the looper cover, if sewing in overlock mode.
To raise the knife press the upper knife holder (1) to the right. Turn the knob (2) clockwise until the knife locks (3).
To lower, press the holder to the right and turn the dial (2) counter-clockwise until it engages. The knife engages in the cutting position.
12
3
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Functions and general operating instructions
21
21
21
Needle clamp
BERNINA 2500DCET needle clamp
There are three needle positions (L, C, R) each with its own fixation screw.
Inserting needles
Needles can be inserted quickly and easily with the practical needle inserter.
To remove:
· Raise the needles (Needle stop).
· Raise the presser foot and swing out or remove.
Loosen the fixation screw and remove the needle using the inserter. Place the replacement needle, flat sides towards the back, into the hole of the needle inserter (1) and insert the needle in the appropriate hole as far as possible into the needle clamp (2).Tighten the needle setscrew firmly (3).
Tip:
Insert the needle C first and then needle L. Needle L is slightly higher than the needle C. Use needle R for cover and chain stitch.
Needle positions
Needles are inserted into positions L, C or R depending on the stitch selected, which produces different stitch widths.
Note: The third needle position (R) is for cover and chain stitch applications only!
Needle L and C
or Needle L 5–7 mm overlock
Needle C 3–5 mm overlock 2–3 mm roll hem
Needles L, C R or needle L and R 5 mm cover stitch
Needles L and C Needles C and R
2.5 mm cover stitch left or right of centre
Needles L, C, and R 5 mm top & bottom cover stitch
Needles L and C
2.5 mm top & bottom cover stitch
Needle R Chain stitch
Note: Remove all needle(s) not in use, and their corresponding thread(s).
L
C
R
1
3
2
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4 6
5
3
Needles, thread, fabric
23
23
23
23
Needles and machine
Your BERNINA overlocker is equipped with needle system 130/705 H (household need­les). However for certain types of sewing, system JLx2 needles can also be used on
Needle and fabric
Needles must be in perfect condition. Problems can occur if needles:
A
B
C
Needle and thread
The needle size used depends on the thread. The needles hould be in accordance with thread used.
Thread/decorative threads
Sewing and special overlock threads are manufactured in a wide variety of types, weights and combination fibres. It is worth investing in good quality threads for perfect sewing results.
Decorative threads specially made for overlockers (avai­lable on cones) are also becoming widely available. We recommend following basic guidelines when using special threads on your overlocker:
the BERNINA 2500DCET when sewing cover and chain stitch (Positions F and G). It is important to purchase system 130/705H needles for overlocking and
A are bent B are damaged or blunt C have hooked points
When sewing, the thread is fed through the long groove in the needle. If the needle is too fine, the thread does not fit into the groove and stitches will be skipped. Use
· Purchase threads on cones
or spools which are pro-
duced exclusively for over-
locking.
· When using normal spools,
use the spool caps (in
accessory bag).
· Only use decorative threads
in the loopers. The thread
must move easily and
without resistance through
the thread guides and
looper eyes.
· The thicker the thread, the
longer the stitch length
(3–4).
· The thicker the thread, the looser the tensions
· Sew slowly when using decorative threads. Pull the thread chain gently to the rear when starting to sew.
· Always test sew decorative threads before starting to sew your work.
· Use the deco-guide when sewing thick or decorative threads (see page 36. )
Thread, needle, application table
cover stitch or JLx2 needles for cover and chain stitch when replacement needles are required.
needles no. 70–90 on your BERNINA overlocker.
Thread Needles Where Application
All purpose overlock thread 70–90 Needles-, loopers- For all overlock- and cover stitch work 120/2 (polyester) and wiper threads
Polyester-continuous filaments Loopers only Neatening edges
Woolly nylon Loopers and wiper only Soft seams in knits, rolled hems
Spun Polyester 80–90 Needles-, loopers- Seams in all fabrics
and wiper threads
Embroidery/darning and 70–90 Loopers and wiper only Neatening edges, rolled hems and decorative threads cover stitch applications
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24
Stitch formations and stitch selection
1 2 3 4 5 6
1–6
7
8
9
10 11 12 13
14 15 16
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
BERNINA 2500DCET stitches
The 2500DCET sews 16 different basic stitches.
Overlock stitches are basically formed with two looper threads.
Examples: 4 thread overlock with integrated safety seam 3 thread overlock/flatlock/roll hem/narrow seam
A further selection of stitches can be sewn with one looper using the upper looper converter.
Examples: 3 thread super stretch 2 thread overlock/flatlock/roll hem
The BERNINA 2500DCET can be converted to cover and chain stitch. The cover stitch is 2.5/5 mm wide and is sewn with two or three needles and the lower looper (the upper looper is released and the upper knife and knife arm are raised).
Chain stitch is sewn with one needle and the lower looper (the upper looper is released and the upper knife and knife arm are raised).
The top & bottom cover stitch is 2.5/5 mm wide and is sewn with two or three needles, a wiper thread along with a lower looper (the upper looper is released and the upper knife and knife arm are raised).
Important!
Remove all needles that are not in use and their corresponding threads.
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25
Stitch formations and stitch selection
Stitch display/stitch selection dial
The Bernina 2500DCET is equipped with a one dial stitch selection function. The basic tension settings for sixteen different stitches are distributed over eight positions. The position desired can be selected by simply turning the stitch selection dial. An LED display indicates the selected position.
The positions A, C, D and E are adjusted for overlock stitches using standard overlock thread. The stitches on Position B are the same as position A but with pre-set tensions for woolly nylon or a similar decorative thread in the loopers. Position F is pre-set for cover stitch, G for chain stitch using all-purpose overlock thread and H for top & bottom cover stitch.
A
H
G
F
E
D
C
B
1
5 6
4
3
2
1–6
7
8
9
10 11 12
16
15
14
13
Stitch display
The stitch display provides all the information you need about stitches and threading.
Symbols:
Yellow line = insert needle L and thread
Green line = insert needle C and thread
Brown line = insert needle R and thread
Blue dot = thread the upper looper through the blue guides
Red dot = thread the lower looper through the red guides
Purple dot = thread the lower looper through the purple guides
Small black dot = do not thread needle, remove needle
Attach the upper looper converter (upper looper is not threaded)
Move stitch selection lever to overlock
Move stitch selection lever to roll hem
Raise the upper knife and upper knife arm
Attach the cover stitch extension plate
Lower the wiper and finger guard
Press in wiper activating lever
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