Bernina 1008 Owner's Manual

MASTERING
BERNINA
®
BERNINA® Electronic 1008
MASTERING YOUR
BERNINA
Electronic 1008
®
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02
Electronic 1008/1
MASTERING
BERNINA
®
BERNINA® Electronic 1008
Table of Contents
SECTION A Pages 3-15
Care and Feeding of Your Machine
SECTION B Pages 16-30 Let’s Start WIth The Basics
SECTION C Pages 31-47
On The Edge
SECTION D Pages 48-61
Gather It Up and Tuck It Down
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MASTERING YOUR
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BERNINA® Electronic 1008
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BERNINA
Electronic 1008
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Section A
Care and Feeding of Your Machine
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Care and Feeding of Your Machine
Machine Set Up
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Storage of accessories
• Attach cords foot control and machine
• Power switch – light on/off function Owner’s manual pg.____
• Extension table (optional)
Presser Feet
Owner’s manual pgs.____
• Importance of using the correct foot
• Stitch selection lever
• Overview of included presser feet
• Can also use one-piece BERNINA® presser feet
Feed Dog
Owner’s manual pg. ____
Threads
Owner’s manual pg. ____
• Types of thread
• Uses for each type of thread
Needles
Owner’s manual pg.____
Bobbins
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Removing the bobbin case
• Winding a bobbin
• Use bobbin thread cutter
• Clip the thread close to the case before removing the bobbin
Threading the Upper Thread
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Two vertical spool pins – Owner’s manual pg.___
• Optional supplementary thread guide
• Optional BERNINA® thread stand
• Thread machine with the presser foot up until ready to thread the needle
BERNINA® Electronic 1008
SECTION A
Threading the Needle
• Side thread cutter – Owner’s manual pg.____
• After the needle is threaded, put the thread under the presser foot
• Lower the presser foot
• Insert the thread into the cutter; it is cut to the proper length to begin sewing
Needle Positions
Owner’s manual pg. ____
• Five positions
Practical/Decorative Stitches
Owner’s manual pgs.____
• Stitches built into the machine
• Uses for the stitches – Owner’s manual pgs.____
• How to select stitches – Owner’s manual pgs.____
- selection lever
- red vs. green stitches
Straight Stitching
• Seam measuring – stitch plate marks – Owner’s manual pg.____
- the following measurements are indicated on the stitch plate: ¼”, 3/8”, ½”, 5/8”, ¾”, and 1”
- the horizontal lines to the far back and the line in front of the needle are 5/8” from needle
• Optional piecing guide attaches to the bed of the machine.
• Right and left seam guides and Seam Guides with Rulers are available as optional accessories for the one-piece BERNINA® presser feet
• Straight stitch throat plate available
• Basting - Owner's manual pg.___
- maximum stitch length and loosened the needle tension helps in removal of stitches
Topstitching/Edgestitching
Owner’s manual pgs.____
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Satin Stitches
• Thread bobbin case finger to adjust tension
• Can taper while sewing
• Stabilizer – important to the success of stitches
Changing the Light Bulb
Owner’s manual pg.____
Cleaning the Feed Dog
• Periodically remove thread fluff and fabric fuzz which collects under the stitch plate. Refer to manual for step-by-step instructions (pg.___).
Cleaning and Lubricating the Hook
• See Owner’s manual page ____ for step-by-step cleaning and oiling instructions
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BERNINA® Electronic 1008
Cleaning the Outside of the Machine
• Wipe with damp cloth. If needed, use a solution of water and a few drops of liquid soap.
IMPORTANT: Never use oil, alcohol, or solvents of any kind on any part of the external surface of the machine.
Here’s an idea...Use your birthday month as a reminder to have your BERNINA
®
machine serviced. Take
it to an authorized BERNINA
technician during the month
of your birthday and you’ll
never have to remember
when it was last serviced.
®
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THREADS
Poor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause poor stitches on any machine. Thread passes through the eye of the needle approximately 37 times in a “see-saw” action before it forms a single stitch. Poor quality thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams, frayed thread, and/or needle breakage. To achieve quality stitches, a sewing machine needs three things: correct thread, correct size needle, and properly adjusted thread tensions.
Several factors such as the fiber, twist, ply, finish, and size of thread must be considered for use with today’s fabrics for fine stitches.
Staple – refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a single ply. Domestic thread fiber lengths are usually 1½” to 2½” long while European threads use 5½” to 6½” lengths.
Ply – the number of single strands twisted together to make a single thread. Roll – the tendency of thread to roll to the right or left during stitching, causing the stitch to
appearslightly crooked. Poor quality threads are more likely to roll. Twist – the crimping of fibers which causes them to interlock firmly into a single ply. Thread should
not untwist during stitching. This will cause skipped stitches, thread breakage, crooked stitches, and weak spots in seams.
Right twist – most American threads are twisted to the right, causing some rolling. This gives average stitch quality.
Left twist – Most commercial and imported threads are twisted to the left, giving better than average stitch quality. Left twist resists rolling and makes a larger loop for the hook point to enter, reducing skipped stitches.
Wearable art embellishment has necessitated the creation and marketing of many new thread types, such as Sulky’s rayons and metallics. Made in West Germany, these are left twist threads; Mettler and Isacord threads are also left twist. To test the twist of a thread: while holding the spool in the left hand, roll the strand of thread towards you with one thumb. Left twist will tighten, right twist will loosen.
Fiber – refers to the typ eof material used to produce the thread. Some commonly used threads:
Polyester 2 ply – such as Metrosene 100. Good for clothing construction on man-made, natural or blended fabrics. Will tolerate heat up to 450° Fahrenheit. Also Isacord embroidery thread – excellent for embroidery, very abrasion resistant.
Polyester 3 ply cordonnet – topstitching or buttonhole twist – such as Mettler 30/3.
Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 60/2 – excellent for French Machine Sewing, delicate machine embroidery, and darning.
Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 30/2 – loose twist for a soft, shiny look in machine embroidery, applique, and buttonholes.
Cotton 3 ply – such as Mettler 50/3 – excellent for clothing construction on natural fibers. Tighter twist than embroidery cotton thread and less puckering on problem fabrics. Cotton thread stretches less than polyester.
Rayon – a lustrous embroidery thread. Weaker than cotton, it is used for decorative work only.
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NEEDLES
Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation. Many “mechanical” problems and damage to fabrics can be traced to a bent, damages, or incorrect size or type needle. Approximately 60% of all needles made are discarded at some stage of production. When selecting the correct needle for any sewing project, three things must be considered:
Needle system – 130/705H Needle point – to assure stitch formation and avoid fabric damage Needle size – small size for lightweight fabrics; larger needle for heavier fabrics
If the needle is:
Too small – the thread can’t stay in the groove to form a loop to be picked up by the hook point Bent – thread loop forms too far away from hook point; hook can’t enter loop to form stitch Blunt – needle won’t pierce fabric so no thread loop forms to make a stitch
Need To Know
• Needle should be changed every 4-6 hours of sewing. The needle is the most inexpensive part in your sewing machine but is one of the most crucial for getting good results and keeping your machine running well. Don’t let false economy keep you from doing what is best for your sewing projects and your machine.
• European needles are chrome-plated to glide in and out of fabric easily.
• The selected thread should fit in the groove on the front of the needle. If it isn’t protected by the groove, a needle with a larger groove should be used.
• Always make sure the needle is fully inserted as high as possible when installing a new one.
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Ball Point
Stretch
Stretch Double
Universal
Double Universal
Triple (Drilling)
Jeans
Jeans Double
70-90
70-90
2.5/75
4.0/75
60-110
1.6/70-
8.0/100
3.0/90
70-90
4.0/100
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SEWING MACHINE NEEDLES
Has a rounder point. 70 for lingerie, nylon, jersey; 80 for T-shirt; 90 for sweatshirt fleece.
A stretch needle has a more rounded point and a blue anti­cling coating which helps to prevent skipped stitches in knits and elastic. Sometimes used on Ultrasuede
Two ballpoint needles on one shank; each needle has a large scarf. Used for hemming and for stitching on knit fabric.
A compromise between a sharp and a ballpoint needle; can be used on both wovens and knits. 60 – very fine batiste 70 – broadcloth 80 – trigger and gabardine 90 – denim and twill 100 & 1 10 – canvas
Two needles attached to one shank. Used for pintucks, hems, and decorative work.
Three needles attached to one shank. Used to create mock smocking and other decorative effects.
Has a sharp point and a shaft that is less prone to flex. The sharpness of the needles makes it better for use on denim and woven fabrics where a clean stitch is desired.
Two Jeans needles attached to one shank. For topstitching on denim with heavy thread; can also be used for decorative stitching with metallic thread.
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, vinyl, and plastic.
BERNINA® Electronic 1008
Microtex Sharp (Schmetz)
Microfiber (Lammertz)
Quilting
Topstitch
Embroidery (Schmetz)
Metafil (Lammertz)
Metafil Double
Wing
Double Wing
Leather
60-90
assort’d (75 &
90)
80-100
75-90
3.0/75
100­120
100
80-90
A sharp point with a thin shaft. 60-90 corresponds to the weight of the fabric; as the fabric gets heavier, the number is higher.
The thin, tapers point of this needle causes less damage to fabric when seaming and cross seaming.
A sharp point with a large eye and deep groove. For use with heavier fabrics – the large groove cradles heavier threads.
Sharp needle with a large eye and groove; also has a coating and a larger scarf. For use with embroidery thread – prevents shredding of rayon or metallic threads. Two threads may be used through the eye of an 80 or 90 needle.
Two Metafil needles attached to one shaft; for double needle work with embroidery threads.
Sharp pointed needle with a non­cutting wedge of metal on each side. Needle makes a hole in the fabric without cutting the threads of the fabric. Used for decorative and heirloom work, such as hemstitching. Works best on natural fibers or on the bias.
One regular needle and one wing needle attached to a single shaft. Use the same as a Wing; makes one large and one regular hole.
Point is a sharp cutting wedge. Used for sewing leather only. Not for vinyl or simulated leathers.
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NEEDLE POSITIONS
Fabric: Firmly woven fabric, 4” x 6” Needle: 90/14 Embroidery Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• The 1008 has 5 fixed needle positions.
• Fold fabric in half to 2” x 6”.
• Select Straight Stitch. The needle position can be set to the left or right using the knob in the center of the stitch width knob.
• Position the fold of the fabric on the 1” mark on the right side of the stitch plate.
• Sew about 6 stitches and stop.
• Move the needle one position to the left.
• Sew another 6 stitches and stop again.
• Repeat until all three positions have been sewn.
• Raise the needle out of the fabric. Leaving the fabric under the foot – move the needle position back to center.
• Sew about 6 stitches and stop.
• Move the needle one position to the right.
• Sew about 6 stitches and stop.
• Move the needle one more position to the right – sew another 6 stitches and stop again.
• Repeat until all three positions have been sewn.
Contrasting color
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SEAMING
Fabric: Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 4” x 6” each Needle: 90/14 Embroidery Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery
Contrasting color
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Find the 5/8” guide line on the stitch plate.
• Place fabric pieces right sides together and align them with the guide line.
• Sew a 5/8” seam on one 6” edge.
• Sew a 2” seam along the opposite edge.
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BASTING
Fabric: Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 4” x 6” each Needle: 90/14 Embroidery Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery
Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Place fabric pieces right sides together.
• Select Straight Stitch #1; adjust the length to 5mm
• Baste a
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02
5
/8” seam along one edge of the fabric.
Note: Loosening the top tension makes the stitches easier to remove.
Contrasting color
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TOPSTITCHING/EDGESTITCHING
Fabric: Firm fabric – 4” x 6” Needle: 90/14 Embroidery Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery
Contrasting color
Presser Foot: Edgestitch Foot #10 (optional accessory)
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Cut fabric in half to create 2 pieces each 2” x 6”.
• Sew two pieces together with a
• Press the seam open.
• From the right side, position the blade of the foot in the ditch of the seam.
• Select Triple Straight Stitch #9/red.
• Move the needle position 1 place to the left (half left).
• Sew the length of the seam.
• Select the longest stitch length.
• Move the needle position 2 places to the right (far right).
• Start at the top of the seam as before.
• Sew down the length of the seam again.
5
/8” seam on the 6” sides.
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SECURING STITCHES
Fabric: Firm fabric, 3” x 6” Needle: 90/14 Embroidery Thread: 30 wt. cotton embroidery Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Fold each fabric piece in half to 1½” x 6”.
• Find the
• Select Straight Stitch #1/green and sew a few stitches.
• Engage the Reverse Lever for about 3/8”; the machine will sew in reverse as long as the lever is engaged.
• Continue stitching the seam and secure the end in the same manner.
5
/8” seam line on the guide plate.
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SATIN STITCH
Fabric: Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 3” x 6” each Needle: 90/14 Embroidery Thread: 30 wt. Cotton Embroidery Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Fold fabric in half to 3” x 6”. Use stabilizer as needed.
• Select Zigzag Stitch #2/green. Change the stitch length to satin stitch and the stitch width to 5.5mm.
• Thread the bobbin thread through the hole in the finger of the bobbin case.
• Move the needle position all the way to the left.
• Position the raw edge of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the right side of the stitch plate).
• Sew down this edge about 1”. While continuing to sew, turn the stitch width knob to taper the stitch to 0mm. Then widen the stitch back to maximum. Repeat until the stitching reaches the end of the fabric.
• Position the fold of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the left side of the stitch plate).
• Move the needle position all the way to the right and stitch along the right side of the fabric, tapering and widening the stitching while sewing.
• Move the needle position to the center and stitch down the center of the fabric, tapering and widening the satin stitch while sewing.
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Hard Case Slide-on Extension Table with GuideFeet-ures Edgestitch Foot #10 Stabilizers – Sampler Pack or type __________
Thread – Assortment or size ____ and type ____ Needles – Assortment or size ____ and type ____
Needle Threader Bobbins – Baker’s dozen Spool Bobbin Holders Magnetic Pin Cushion Magnetic Bobbin Holder Straight Stitch Plate Seam Sealant Extra Thread Stand Scissors - 6” or 7” Dressmaker’s shears ____
Left guide (matches right guide included with machine)____ Right and Left Seam Guides with Rulers Set of Magnifying Glasses
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BERNINA® Electronic 1008
WISH LIST
Care and Feeding of Your Machine
type __________ size ____ and type ____ size ____ and type ____
size ____ and type ____ size ____ and type ____
4” or 5” Trimming scissors ____ Thread nips ____
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MASTERING YOUR
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BERNINA
Electronic 1008
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Let’s Start With The Basics
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Section B
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Let’ s Start With The Basics
Seams
Triple Straight Stitch – SL 2-3mm
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Jeans Foot #8 prevents needle deflection
• Non-Stick Straight Stitch Foot #53
• This stitch sews strong seams on heavy fabrics
Zigzag – SL1mm SW1.5mm Owner’s manual pgs.____
Vari-Overlock – SL1mm SW4mm NP right Owner’s manual pg. ____
• Can be used with double needle for a decorative hem on knits
• Overlock Foot #2 prevents the seam from rolling as it is being sewn
Double Overlock – SL2mm SW5mm Owner’s manual pg. ____
Flat Joining Seam - SL2mm SW4mm Owner’s manual pg.___
BERNINA® Electronic 1008
SECTION B
Oversewing Edges
Owner’s manual pg.____
Hems
Blind Hem – Owner’s manual pg.____
• The Blind Hem Foot #5, along with the blindstitch, produces a superior blind hem. The zigzag part of the stitch is formed over the guide on the foot, causing the stitch to be slightly loose, so that the blind hem will not pucker and does not form a tuck in the fabric.
Hand Picked – Feet-ures, Unit B pg.____ Triple Zigzag – Feet-ures, Unit A pg.____
• This stitch is used for strong, visible hems on firm, coarse fabrics such as denim and canvas.
Double Needle – Feet-ures, Unit A pg.___ Neckline Hem – Owner’s manual pg.____
Stitching Corners
• Use the 5/8” markings on stitch plate.
• Turn handwheel counter clockwise to sink needle into fabric.
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Jeans – Feet-ures, Unit B pg.____
• Height Compensation Tool
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TRIPLE STRAIGHT STITCH
Fabric: Denim, 4” x 6” Needle: 90/14 Jeans Thread: All-purpose Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Edgestitch Foot #10 (optional accessory)
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut the fabric in half lengthwise forming two pieces, 2” x 6” each.
• Select the Triple Straight Stitch #9/red.
• Sew the two pieces together with a
• Press the seam open.
• Change to Edgestitch Foot #10 and adjust the needle position to stitch through the seam allowance.
• Adjust the stitch length to 3.5mm.
• With the guide of the foot in the ditch of the seam, topstitch the length of the seam on both sides.
5
/8” seam allowance using Reverse Pattern Foot #1.
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ZIGZAG SEAM
Fabric: Firm knit – 4” x 6” Needle: 80/12 Universal Thread: All-purpose Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut the fabric piece in half lengthwise, creating two pieces, 2” x 6” each.
• Select the Zigzag Stitch #2/green – SW 1mm and SL 0.5mm.
• Position the fabric to produce a
• Stitch the seam.
• Clip one seam allowance in the middle.
• Press one part of the seam open and leave the other half closed, so the stitch is visible.
• Trim and mount the sample.
5
/8” seam down one side.
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