Baumfolder Rebuilding User Manual

Section 1 - How to Rebuild a Baumfolder

NOTE: There are several bolts with the same diameter and thread but different lengths.
Do not interchange bolts of different lengths. The length is very important.

1. Before working on the folder: DISCONNECT ALL ELECTRICAL POWER
SUPPLY TO THE FOLDER to prevent accidental start of the folder. Check level

across the number one roller and from front to back of left and right frame. Check to
insure you have all the parts and tools necessary such as reamers, gauges, and etc. It is

2. Remove all guards covering area where you are working. If side guard you are removing

3. Remove drive belts. If you are not familiar with the equipment, I

4. Remove the drive gears on the outside of the frame

5. Remove fold plates on the section you are working

6. To remove the fold rolls, loosen the set screw in the collar

7. Make a note of the location of the witness marks for

helpful to clean area around the folder so if you drop anything, it will be easier to find.

has electrical wires in it, do not stretch the wires. The wire may pull out of the terminal
and cause a short when you check the folder. Normally the wires are long enough that the
controls can be placed in a position where it is out of the way while working on the
folder. You may have to remove the hand wheel on the 500 series to allow the wires to
pass between the frame and the throw off rod. Caution should be exercised when
replacing the guard not to pinch lead wires between the guard and the frame causing a
short in the electrical system.

suggest you put tape on the belt and identify its location for later
convenience.

on the non-operator side of the folder section you
are working on. Use your parts book if you have
trouble remembering how it goes back or draw a
sketch for future reference.

on. Store them in a manor that the nose of the fold
plate or the plate itself is not damaged.

of each fold roll (usually on the left end of the fold roll)
and move collar toward the body of the fold roll.

future reference. You can achieve the proper space
between the fold rolls with the eccentrics 180 degrees off
until you get to the number 5 fold roll. You want to know
where to start when setting the rollers.

8. Do not remove the plate rails or if applicable the eccentric deflector studs. You can
remove the fold rollers with the rails and studs in place. This will save time later when
setting fold plates.

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Section 1 - How to Rebuild a Baumfolder..... continued

9. It is not necessary to remove the register table to change the fold rollers, but I recommend
it to allow better access when removing rollers and later when setting the eccentrics and
fold plate setting on # 2 and # 4 plate and rolls.

10. To remove register table:

A) Remove paper hold downs
B) Remove tuck in shoes.
C) Remove marbles from marble guide.
D) Remove marble guide.
E) Remove side guide. Slide register belt under marble guide

over to get to the flat head screws that fastens the side guide.

F) Remove tape tighten assembly. (under register table) loosen

2 bolts on each end and slide assembly toward operator side
from above the belts and below the register table.

G) Remove taper plate between feeder and register tapes (a flat head screw on each

end.)

H) Lift up on the large tape roll, (by feeder), on the non-operator side of the folder

and slide it toward you to remove it.

I) Have two people, one on each side of the register to hold the register while

removing the four bolts that fastens it to the frame. Then lower the end toward the
feeder down and forward and lift up the opposite end until the register clears the
Baumsets/ roller adjustment stems. Then lift the register to a safe location where it
will not be damaged.

J) To replace register when finished, reverse procedure I through A.

11. Remove slitter shafts.

12. Remove all tension block bolts. Ten (five on
each side) on a three or four plate folder, six
(three on each side on a two plate folder.

13. If the folder has oil lines, remove oil lines from
the roll boxing and main drive roll.
Remove the clip that fastens the oil lines to the
frame on the operator side just above the number
one roller.

14. Remove the right and left roll boxing eccentric
from the number one fold roller. (Note: these
eccentric bolts are usually fine thread. Most of
the other bolts are course thread.) Lift the
number one roll up and out of the folder.

15. Continue step number 14 on the #2, then #4,
then #5, then#3 rollers in that order. Rollers
number 5 and 3 should come under the roll
bank and toward the delivery end of the roll bank to remove.

16. Remove hand wheel on operator side of the folder. If the hand wheel is not free of the
fold rollers, it should be left off or replaced by one that engaged when you want to turn
the folder by hand.

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Section 1 - How to Rebuild a Baumfolder..... continued

17. Remove the three flat head bolts on the main drive roll sleeve on the operator side of the

folder. Remove the main drive roll sleeve, and slide the main drive roll out through the
opening in the frame.

18. Remove the left hand main drive roll sleeve.
(Caution) mark the main drive roll sleeves so they are
not put on wrong side when reassembling unit. The oil
hole will be in the wrong location.

PREPARATION TO INSTALL NEW ROLLERS

19. The main drive roll sleeves have two brass bushings, one pressed in from each side and a
space between the bushings. Press both bushings out. Then press in the new bushing in
from the flange side of the main drive roll sleeve until it is flush with the sleeve. Then
press the second one in on the small end of the main drive roll sleeve, (end toward the
body of the roll,) leaving the bushing extend .015 out of the main drive roll sleeve. This
allows the collar or the roll gear to run against the bushing instead of the metal in the
main drive roll sleeve.

20. Hand ream the bushing with a standard 7/8 of inch, or the diameter of the main drive roll
journal (shaft). Normally you do not ream an oilite bushing, but the folder will be oiled
and does not depend on the oil in the bushing. Repeat step 19 and 20 on the opposite
main drive roll sleeve.

21. Insert both right and left main drive roll sleeves and tighten the three flat head bolts in
both without the main drive roll. check the location of the oil hole in the main drive
sleeve to insure correct position of the sleeves.

22. Insert the proper diameter lining bar through the main drive roll sleeve and to about one
quarter of an inch from the opposite main drive roll sleeve. With no pressure, move the
lining bar up and down watching to see if it centers with the bushing in the main drive
roll sleeve. Then move the lining bar from side to side. If the lining bar is low in
relationship to the bushing in the main drive sleeve, put a shim at the top of the main
drive roll sleeve between the flange and the frame, leaving the shim at least one inch past
the flange. This would allow you to tape the shim to the frame so when you remove the
main drive roll sleeve to install the main drive roller, you would not loose the alignment.
Go from one side to the other until the lining bar turns free and with as few shims as
possible.

23. Now add the reamer to the end of the lining bar and ream from left to right then right to
left. Remove the main drive roll sleeve and install the new main drive roll. When
installing the roll gear, note one side of the i.d. of the gear has a bevel. The bevel should
go toward the body of the roller. Compare the main drive roll with the roll you removed
to be sure the flats on the journal is in the correct location. The main drive roll should
have a gear on one end and a collar on the other. On most eight and sixteen page units, it
will have a roll gear on one end and the crosscarrier drive gear on the other.

24. Replace the main drive roll sleeve and just smug up the three flat head bolts. Turn the roll

with your fingers and tighten the flat head bolts one at a time. The roll should turn easy

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