Baby Lock Pro Line, BL4-838D Instruction Book

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CONGRATULATIONS!

You are now entering an exciting new era in sewing. As an owner of the Baby Lock you have
become a part of the serger sewing revolution, opening the door to new adventures and
possibilities in your sewing creativity.

Professional Appearance: Your serger gives the quality finish to your garments
as seen in even the most expensive ready – to – wear.

Decreased Sewing Time: Because of your sergers high speed capability – up to
1,500 stitches per minute – and its ability to seam, overcast and trim, all in one
operation, you will be completing more garments in less time.

Increased Sewing Ability: Difficult fabrics and handling techniques will no longer
pose a challenge. The Baby Lock handles all types of fabrics with equal ease.

Your Baby Lock serger is a high quality, dependable performance machine, and with proper
care and maintenance will give you many years of sewing pleasure. We suggest that you
follow your instruction manual as a step – by – step guide in acquainting you with serger
sewing. Later, as you become more confident, the manual will become a handy reference for
expanding your abilities.

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1 HOW YOUR SERGER OPERATES

A serger sewing machine (or Overlock, as it is sometimes called) is quite different from any
conventional machine you have used.
Awareness of its simple operation will permit you to become more proficient in its use. The
Baby Lock operates with two needles, but no bobbin. Also involved in stitching are two loopers
each carrying a thread, and two parallel stitch fingers which are the foundation for stitch
formation. When the needle enters the needle plate, the upper looper moves above the palte
and behind the needle. At the same time, the lower looper passes below the plate and in front
of the needle. The threads carried by the needle and the loopers are then knitted together over
the stitch fingers, thus creating the stitch chain. When fabric travels through the machine the
threads then become “locked” over the fabric. As the fabric is fed into the feed dogs, two
cutting knives perform in a scissor – like action to trim the edge prior to stitching. After setting
up your machine for the first time, take a few moments to learn how it sews. Turn the
handwheel (toward you) and watch the movement and operation of the various parts. Don’t
bother about fabric right now. It does not hurt your Baby Lock serger to stitch without fabric
under the presser foot.

1 –1 Accessories

Accessory Number included Located in

Instruction manual
Curved tweezers
Lint brush
Screwdrivers

Spool caps
Thread nets
Needles
Lower knife replacement blade
Machine cover

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1
1
2

4
4
5
1
1

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Accessory compartment
Accessory compartment
1/ Accessory compartment
1/ Accessory packet
Accessory packet
Accessory packet
Accessory compartment
Accessory packet
Accessory packet

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1 – 2 Parts of the machine

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2 GETTING READY TO SEW

2 – 1 Setting up your machine

After removing Styrofoam packing materials from the box, gently lift your Baby Lock serger by grasping
the handle provided on the top of the machine. Place on a serger sewing table or any level surface
providing ample work area to the left of the machine. Please protect fine furniture surface to avoid
scratches or stains.

• Raise the telescopic thread guide to its highest
position. You will find that the shaft may be rotated
left and right. Continue raising the telescopic thread
guide until each section “clicks” into a locked
position. Place foot pedal under the sewing table
(may be held in place with an optional pedal stay).

• First plug terminal into machine, then insert plug into wall outlet. The On/Off switch is located on the
lower right side of the machine. Make sure power is always off when machine is not in use.
Your machine is equipped with a two – step electronic foot control. This control will allow you to
control maximum speed at which you can sew depending on where the switch is set. When the
switch, located on the front of the controller, is set on HIGH, the machine will sew at maximum of
1,500 S.P.M. When the switch is set at LOW, the machine will sew at a maximum speed of about
800 S.P.M.

• To open the front cover, place your thumb against
the tab, and slide the cover to the right. A slight pull
forward will allow the cover to swing down, providing
access to the loopers, knives, and thread guides.
The side cover is opened by gently pushing the front
of it to the left. It is hinged in back and will swing
open for easy cleaning.

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2 – 2 Needle

Your Baby Lock serger is set up with a size 14 industrial sewing machine needle (Organ DCx1F) which is
suitable for all light and medium and heavy weight fabrics. For very light weight fabrics you will want to a
size 11 needle. (See page 30). The semi – ballpoint design of the industrial needle allows you to use the
same needle for knits as well as wovens. Its quality and strength are specifically designed for high speed
sewing. An industrial needle will give perfect stitch formation through many hours of sewing. It is
recommended that the needles be replaced every third project.

2 – 3 Thread

All types of thread may be used on your Baby Lock, but you will find that 100% long – staple polyester
thread, cross wound on a cone will consistenly provide the best stitch performance. Because the threads
pass through many thread guides at a fast pace it is important that the thread be of uniform thickness,
high strength, and allow a minimum amount of linting.

Good quality cotton or cotton – covered polyester thread sew well, though they do produce more lint and
create the need to clean the machine more frequently. They work well for Overedging and seaming. For
narrow rolled edging, this thread may be too weak or too fuzzy for the desired effect. Poor grades of
these threads can result in frequent fraying and breaking.

Threads of other fiber content and weight may be used as well. Keep in mind, though, their strength and
thickness, as these factors determine the ease with which thread passes through the thread guides,
tension discs, needle and loopers. Specialty threads often require tension adjustment to be made. For
more information on specialty threads (See pages 27 ~ 28).

• Cone thread
When using cone thread, place each cone securely
over the cone holders furnished on your machine. It
may be necessary to place one hand under the
thread stand while positioning the cone, in order to
avoid bending the stand. These cone holders
prevent the cone from spinning, thus allowing the
thread to feed off evenly. (It is not necessary to
remove the cone holders when using spool thread).

• Spool thread
The spool thread caps are provided for use with
spool thread. Since most spools have serrated
edges that snag the thread when sewing, these caps
provide a smooth surface for even feed. Snap a
spool cap into the spool of thread. Be sure the
notched edge of the spool is down, and set the
thread on the spindle. The cap may cause the
spindle to be suspended on the spindle. (Do not
attempt to fit the cap on the spindle itself).

• Thread nets
The nets may be placed over cones or spools when
using thread that has a tendency to “drop off” its
holder while sewing. For most thread they are not
necessary, but are frequently used with nylon, rayon
or silk threads.

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2 – 4 Threading Method I – Tying on

The fastest and easiest way to thread your Baby Lock is to cut off the unwanted thread and tie its end to
the beginning of the new thread, as follows:

1. Clip the existing thread just above its
cone/ spool.

2. Change threads and make a square
knot to tie each old thread to its
corresponding new thread (Figure 7).

3. Clip the needle threads directly in front of the eye of the
needle. (It is not advisable to attempt to pull the knot through
the eye. This may bend or break the needle). Figure 8

4. Separate the thread chain, (discarding needle thread tail)
and gently pull the looper threads – individually – until each
knot passes completely through the machine. Hint: As you
pull the tension disc rings forward slightly, making it easier
for the knot to pass through.

5. Pull the needle threads through in the same manner, and use the needle threader (see page 10) to
rethread the needles.

6. Place all threads under and to the left of the
presser foot: lower presser foot and sew a
few stitches to start the chain.

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2 – 5 Threading Method II – Manual

If thread breaks or is allowed to run out, it will be necessary to rethread manually. A threading diagram is
conveniently located on the inside of the front cover of the machine.
be done in the following sequence:

A. Upper looper

- Place the first thread on the
on the telescopic thread guide, thread all
disc, and end with the upper looper.

B. Lower looper

- Place the next thread on the
color – coded
figures 10a through 10c below.

path and end with the lower looper. When threading the lower looper, please refer to

third spindle of the thread holder. Beginning with its corresponding “eye”

green color – coded thread guides, including the tension

far –right spindle and thread in the same manner following the blue

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It is important that manual threading

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C. Right needle

Place thread on the second (yellow) spindle and follow the yellow color – coded path, ending with the
right needle.

D. Left needle

Place thread on the far – left (orange) spindle and follow the orange color – coded path, ending with
the left needle.

• When threading the eye of the needles, use the needle threader, see page 10.

NOTE: Each needle thread must catch in its

respective guide and under one side of
the thread plate. (Figure 12).

E. Place all threads under and to the left of the

presser foot and make a few stitches to
begin the chain. (Figure 13)

IMPORTANT: If a looper thread breaks or runs
out, while the other threads remain intact, it is
necessary to follow this rethreading sequence:

1. Unthread the eyes of the needles.

2. Rethread the looper.

3. Rethread needle eyes.

If you forget to unthread/rethread the needle
eye, thread will be wrapped around the lower
looper out of sequence and, when you begin to
sew, the looper thread will break.

The needles

must always be threaded last.

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2 – 6 How to use the needle threader

1. Rotate the handwheel and bring the needles
to their highest position. (You can find this
position through the stitch length indicator
window, see page 12).

2. Turn the needle threader dial clockwise until the threading hook comes through the eye of the
needle.

3. Form a looper of thread and place the loop
around the threader hook guide. Slowly,
release the threading dial and the thread
simultaneously to thread the eye of the
needle.

4. After threading the right needle, set the
changing lever to L. Thread the left needle in
same manner as the right needle.

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2 – 7 Knives

The two devices used to perform cutting are referred
to as knives – the upper knife and lower knife –
located at the right edge of the needle plate. Unlike
household knives, they are approximately 1/16” thick,
and pose no danger in handling. They cut like
scissors, and their sharpness is derived from the
angle of the precision ground edges.

Never sew over pins with your serger. This will cause damage to both knife blades, making replacement
necessary.

The upper knife is made of an especially hard steel and should remain sharp for a long time, probably many
years. The lower knife is made of a softer steel and will require periodic replacement. The frequency of
replacement is determined by how often you sew, how clean you keep your serger, and the types of fabrics
you sew. Synthetic, metallic, and hard finish fibers cause more wear to the knife blades than do softer, natural
fibers. When you notice the fabric not feeding readily or the edges of the fabric are not cleanly cut, replace the
lower knife. To replace either knife refer to “Care & Maintenance” (Page 31).

The upper knife may be moved out of cutting position when no trimming is desired. The lower knife is in a
fixed position and remains that way, even when cutting is not desired.

• Disengaging the upper knife

1. Open the front cover.

2. With the left hand, firmly push the upper knife
holder to the right; then rotate the knife holder
knob clockwise with your right hand until the
knife is raised to its highest position. You will
feel it “snap” into a locked position.

3. Close the front cover.

As you sew with the upper knife disengaged, be sure to align fabric with the right edge of the needle plate as
it is fed into the feed dogs. Failure to do so will cause the fabric to catch in the loopers. Should a “fabric jam”
occur, stop sewing immediately. Raise the needle and presser foot, and use the tweezers to free fabric from
loopers. If necessary, remove presser foot for better access.

To return upper knife to cutting position, push upper knife holder to the right, and rotate counter – clockwise
until the knife is completely down and resting firmly against lower blade.

• Locking the upper knife to sew extra heavy
fabrics

When sewing extra heavy fabrics like denim or
canvas etc., tighten the upper knife holder
fixing screw.

Note: When sewing normal fabrics, loosen the

screw to unlock the upper knife.

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3 STITCH LENGTH ADJUSTMENT

The serger is pre – set for a stitch length of 3 mm. This equals about 10 stitches per inch which is ideal for seaming
and Overedging most fabrics. For narrow rolled edging, overedging or seaming very light weight fabrics you may
prefer a shorter length. Heavier fabrics and operations such as gathering may require lengthening the stitch. The
stitch length indicator is located on the right side of the machine, just above front cover. The number 1 represents
the shortest stitch, number 4 is the longest stitch. (The “M” symbol is used for setting the rolled edge).

1. Raise the presser foot.

2. With your left forefinger, push in the red stitch length button firmly and rotate the handwheel counter –
clockwise until the button fits the groove of the stitch dial – you will feel “snap” into place.

3. Continuing to hold the red button in, turn the handwheel in either direction necessary to get the desired stitch
length number to line up with the marker in the window.

4. Release the red button and lower presser foot.

Retyped by mastersewusa.com

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4 STITCH WIDTH ADJUSTMENT

The machine is pre – set for stitch width of 3.5 mm (5.7 mm). Stitch width can be widened by moving the stitch
fingers apart, or narrowed by moving them closer together, within a range from 3.5 mm – 7.5 mm. Adjust the width
according to the type of fabric used and the finished stitch appearance desired. Loosely woven fabrics require a
wide stitch, while you may prefer a narrow stitch on knitted, tightly woven or sheer fabrics.

4 – 1 To increase stitch width

1. Open the front cover, raise the needle bar and
presser foot.

2. Use your finger or tweezers to pull a small
amount of slack in the needle thread just above
the eye of the needle. Gently pull back on the
thread chain until the threads clear the stitch
fingers. (See page 15).

3. Rotate the upper knife to its highest position.
(See page 11).

4. Turn the red stitch width dial away from you until
the desired stitch width number is aligned with
the indicator on the needle plate. (Figure 23).

5. Lower the presser foot, upper knife and close the
front cover.

4 – 2 To decrease stitch width

Simply turn the stitch width dial toward you until the desired stitch width number aligns with the indicator on the
needle plate. (Figure 24).

Note: Stitch width can be further reduced by removing the left – hand needle from the machine. The machine will
form a 3 – thread stitch that is 2.2 mm narrower than the size indicated by the number on the stitch width dial.

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5 PRESSER FOOT ADJUSTMENT

The pressure on your Baby Lock presser foot has been pre – adjusted at the factory and rarely needs
adjustment. For very thick fabrics you might find it necessary to decrease the pressure on the presser
foot in order for it to accommodate the thickness of the fabric and feed through smoothly. To release the
pressure, with a coin, turn the presser adjuster
screw counterclockwise. To return the pressure
on the pressure foot to its normal setting, turn
the pressure adjuster screw clockwise.

5 – 1 Tape guide slot in presser foot

The tape guide slot in the presser foot is
designed to guide a stabilizing tape or a narrow
elastic into the stitching. Insert the tape or elastic
through the slot and under the back of the foot.
Adjust the stitch width to match the width of the
tape.
Insert the fabric and stitch.

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6 START SERGING

When sewing on your serger you may leave the presser foot in the “down” position for most sewing
applications. Begin by placing under the tip of the presser foot. As you step on the pedal, the feed dogs will
move the fabric into the needle. When you complete the sewing line do not raise the presser foot. Continue
sewing until a 3” chain is made off the fabric, and clip. You should only need to raise and lower the presser
foot when working with thick, spongy, or lofty fabrics, or when precise positioning is required.

6 – 1 Thread cutter

Your serger’s thread cutter in on the lamp cover.
After finishing the seam, cut the thread with
thread cutter.

As you sew, you will quickly discover that maneuvering your fabric is a little different from conventional
sewing. This is caused by the stitch fingers holding the threads. Learn to clear the threads from the stitch
fingers and it will simplify serger sewing.

6 – 2 To clear stitch fingers

1. Raise the presser foot and the needle to the highest position.

2. Pull a little slack in the needle threads just above the needle thread guide. (Figure 31).

3. Gently pull thread chain from behind presser foot until threads slip off the stitch fingers. (Figure 32)

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7 FOUR – THREAD SERGING

Your serger is pre – set for four – thread serging, the most common mode of serger sewing. It provides a very
durable yet fully stretchable seam or overedge on all types of fabric. With tensions properly set, the lower
looper thread forms a flat, non – rolling pattern of overcastting stitches on the underside of the fabric. The
upper looper thread forms a similar pattern on the top side and these two threads lock together evenly over
the cut edge.

The left needle thread interlocks with two looper threads at the stitching line to create the seam. The right
needle thread, visible from the top side of the seam, interlocks with both loopers to add durability. (Figure 33)

The tension on each thread is controlled by its color – coded tension dial. Turn the dial to the right (clockwise)
to tighten or increase the tension; turn it to the left (counterclockwise) to loosen or decrease tension. The
chart on page 35 indicates the suggested number ranges for four – thread stitching. Note on this chart
specific settings for your own machine.

Always keep in mind that various threads and individual preferences may require slight adjustment to the
needle thread tension. Always sew a sample stitch on the fabric to determine if the desired result is achieved.

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7 – 1 Overedging (Overcasting)

When making a garment with 5/8” pressed open
seams, you will find the most efficient method for
finishing seam allowance is to serge all cut edges of
each pattern piece prior to construction. Since
notches will be cut away during serging, use a water
soluble pen/pencil to mark location of any matching
points. Then, sew seams on your conventional
machine, and press open as usual.

1. Place fabric in front of the presser foot, aligned
with right edge of the needle plate.

2. Begin stitching, continuing to guide the fabric

along the right edge of the needle plate.

If you have left the upper knife in cutting position, the edge of the fabric should be “shaved” clean, but not cut.

7 – 2 Turning an inside corner

1. If a seam allowance is to be trimmed away, clip
along each cut line for 1 – 2”, as shown.
(Otherwise, pre – trim the edge with scissors).

2. Sew along one edge until you reach the corner.
Make one stitch off the edge of the fabric.

3. Clear the stitch fingers, and rotate the fabric to
reposition the needle just below the previous row
of stitching. Gently pull up on all threads to
remove slack and resume stitching.

Note: If you find a loose thread loop at the corner it is due to too much slack in the needle thread when cleaning
stitch fingers. Try again… turning corners takes a little practice.

7 – 3 Turning an inside corner

1. Mark the cutting line to within 1” of the corner, both directions. (Reinforce loosely woven fabric with stay
stitching on conventional machine).

2. Clip to corner.

3. Align fabric for required seam allowance, and stitch until the knife reaches the corner (don’t cut into corner).

4. Raise the presser foot and straighten out the fabric, forming a pleat.

5. Continue stitching the straightened edge. When done correctly, the pleat will disappear after stitching.

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7 – 4 Serging curves

To serge around inside or outside curves, handle fabric as you do in conventional sewing, but guide your fabric into
the knife, not the needle. Remember, cutting takes place before sewing. Also, since the long serger presser foot
holds the fabric more securely, you may need to raise and lower the presser foot several times to work.

7 – 5 Seaming

You will find that it is not necessary to finish most garments with 5/8” pressed open seams. Instead, seam with your
serger, and press to one side. The four – thread seam is strong, yet provides “give” or flexibility according to the
needs of the fabric.

1. Use the marks on the front of the serger to align
your fabric for the desired seam width (the red
mark indicates 5/8” from the left needle).

2. Keep your eye on the fabric to make sure it feeds
in aligned with the appropriate mark. Do not
watch the needle. If the fabric feeds, in
accurately, the needle will automatically seam in
the right place.

7 – 6 Locking ends

The stitch will not readily unravel, and in most instances you will find it necessary to secure ends. When you do,
though, select one of these methods:

A. Leaving a 3” chain, separate threads and tie a knot.
B. Apply a dot of seam sealant (Fray check™) on the threads at the edge of the fabric. Allow to dry and cut off

excess thread.

C. Leave a 3 – 4” chain and use a large eyed needle or crochet hook to weave chain under the serger stitches.

D. Sew over previous stitches (similar to back stitching).

* At the beginning of the seam

1. Sew 2 – 3 stitches (about 1/8”) and stop.

2. Raise presser foot and needle.

3. Smooth out the chain with your fingers, then
bring the chain around and under the pressure
foot, so that it aligns with the edge of the fabric.

4. Lower presser foot, and continue sewing,
catching the thread chain for about 1” in the
stitches. Let knives cut off any remaining chain.

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* At the end of the seam

1. Stitch 1 stitch off the end of the seam.

2. Clear the stitch fingers (See page 15).

3. Turn fabric over and reposition under the presser foot with the needle at the seam edge.

4. Sew 5 – 6 stitches over the previous stitches, being careful not to cut previous stitches, then chain off the

fabric.

8 THREE – THREAD SERGING

Three – thread serger stitching is ideal for seaming and overcastting on fabric when raveling is not a problem
– knits and firm wovens for example.

To convert your serger to wide three – thread stitching (5.7 mm – 7.5 mm) snip the right – hand needle thread
just above the eye. Remove the thread from the
needle. (Figure 48 ~ 49).

NOTE: Please tighten the right – hand needle clamp screw slightly to prevent the screw from vibrating out.

yellow color – coded thread guide and remove the right

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To convert your serger to narrow three – thread stitching (3.5 mm – 5.3 mm) snip the left – hand needle
thread just above the eye. Remove the thread from the orange color – coded thread guides and remove
the left needle. (Figure 50 ~ 51).

NOTE: Please tighten the left – hand needle clamp screw slightly to prevent the screw from vibrating
out.

The tension on each thread is controlled by its
color – coded tension dial. Turn the dial to the right
(clockwise) to tighten or increase tension. Turn the
dial to the left (counter – clockwise) to loosen or
decrease tension. The chart on page 35 indicates
suggested range of tension number ranges for
three – thread stitching. Note on this chart the
specific setting for your own machine.

The pictures below illustrate some incorrect thread
tension for three – thread stitching and the
necessary adjustments to correct them.

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9 TWO – THREAD SERGING

Two – thread serging provides a decorative, but functional seam, known as the flatlock seam. On garments
ranging from lingerie to fake – fur coats it produces flat, non – bulk seam. Use it to seam fake – fur fabrics,
and you will find that the stitches “disappear” in the nap. When seaming active wear the decorative
appearance or flatlock can be enhanced with the use of metallic or variegated thread.

Besides flatlock seaming, two – thread serging provides an economical, yet sturdy means of overedging all
fabrics. When combined with specialty threads, two – thread stitching makes decorative edges for ruffles,
hemlines, borders and accessories.

Two – thread sewing is accomplished through the elimination of two threads (upper looper, green color –
coded path and either needle thread), and slight machine adjustments.

The stitch pattern for two – thread sewing has a slightly different appearance from that of three – thread
sewing. If tension is properly set, the needle thread forms a flat overedge loops on the underneath side of the
fabric, while the lower looper thread creates similar stitches on the top side of the fabric. Both threads lock
together at the cut edge as well as at the needle stitching line. (See Figure 60).

9 – 1 To convert from three – thread to two – thread sewing

1. Open the front cover and rotate the handwheel
to bring the upper looper to its lowest position.

2. Cut upper looper thread just behind the eye of
the looper, and without unthreading all the
thread guides, bring the loose thread up and
over its own tension disc (green). This keeps it
out of the way, and eliminates the need for
complete rethreading later.

3. Push on the subsidiary looper screw (brass)
with your finger or small screwdriver, and
rotate it to the left until the tip of the subsidiary
looper fits securely in the eye of the upper
looper, thus disengaging the looper.

4. Move the thread guide switch from the blue “3”
to the red “2”. Be careful not to move the
switch lower than necessary.

5. Adjust tension. (See page 35).

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When you are doing two – thread serging for the first time, use a medium weight fabric to sew a test sample
for determining correct tension setting. Begin by setting needle tension to “1.5” and lower looper tension to
“4”. Sew the sample. If threads are not balanced make adjustments according to illustrations. Record correct
tension on chart, page 35.

9 – 2 To return from two – thread to three –

thread or four – thread sewing

1. Open the front cover and rotate the handwheel
to bring the upper looper to its lowest position.

2. With your finger or small screwdriver, push in
the brass screw and rotate clockwise to bring
the subsidiary looper to the “up” position.

3. Place upper looper thread back in any thread
guides which may have come undone and
back through the eye of the looper.

4. For four – thread sewing, replace the second
needle and its corresponding thread.

5. Move the thread guide switch from the red “2”
to the blue “3”.

6. Balance tension for three – thread or four –
thread sewing (refer to chart, page 35).

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9 – 3 Flatlock seams

Flatlock seams are ideal for many fabrics, including interlock, spandex, tricot, sweatshirt fleece, fake – fur and
synthetic suede. Flatlock seaming may be used on many woven fabrics, as well, but be sure to make a test
seam first to determine whether it will have the necessary strength. In any instance, the seam should be
considered “decorative” because the thread pattern will shown on the outside as well as the inside of the
garment.

Flatlock seams are sewn in the same manner as three – thread seams; however, after sewing, the two fabric
layers are pulled until the seam lays flat, and the two – threads form a pattern between them. Before sewing,
you must decide which stitch pattern you want to have on the outside of the garment.

If you wish to have the loop pattern showing, place fabric wrong sides together before sewing seam. (Figure

65).

If the ladder effect is desired on the outside, the fabric is placed right sides together. (Figure 66).

9 – 4 Flatlock tucks

Decorative tucks may be created on blouses, dresses, childrens and infants wear, etc., with the use of the
flatlock stitch. Either follow placement lines on your pattern or design your own tucks by stitching fabric prior
to laying out pattern pieces.

1. Set the machine for two – thread sewing with
stitch length and width as desired for finished
look.

2. Disengage the upper knife.

3. Fold fabric – right side out – along tuck
placement lines.

4. Position fabric under the presser foot with fold
aligned with the right edge of the needle plate,
and stitch the tuck to desired ending point.

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5. Clear the stitch fingers, and chain off the fabric.

6. Clip threads, leaving a 3 – 4” chain on fabric.

7. Gently pull the fabric to flatten the stitches.

8. Thread the chain through a large – eyed needle,

sew to back side of fabric and secure.

NOTE: If you find the fabric does not pull completely flat under the stitches, move the fold edge of the fabric
slightly back from the edge of the needle plate. This will allow threads to loop slightly off the edge of the fabric
and let the fabric pull completely flat.

9 – 5 Blind Hemming

It is possible to create a type of blindhem on your Baby Lock serger which will provide a sturdy finish for
sportswear, childrens wear and home decorator items.

1. Set the machine for two – thread sewing, stitch
width “5”, stitch length “4”.

2. Fold the fabric up along hemline and press in
place. Then fold back against the right side of
the garment to create a soft fold about ¼” from
the top edge of the hem.

3. Align hem under the presser foot and stitch,
allowing the needle to catch only a thread or
two of the soft fold; the knife will trim the top
edge of the hem.

4. Open the soft fold and press flat.

NOTE: Remove the left needle when Blindhem sewing.
An optional blindhemming foot is available through your Baby Lock dealer.

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10 NARROW ROLLED EDGING

The narrow rolled edge setting is used to achieve the narrowest (1.5 mm) stitch possible on your Baby Lock
serger. It is used for seaming sheer and light weight fabrics, as well as edging and hemming all but heaviest
fabrics. This narrow edge is accomplished by removing the “Stitch Width Former” from the lower knife base.
Stitches are then formed on the one tiny remaining stitch finger.

10 – 1 To adjust the needle plate for narrow
rolled edging

1. Remove the left needle and corresponding
thread.

2. Open both the front and side covers.

3. Raise the presser foot and the upper knife to
the highest position.

4. Clear the stitch fingers.

5. Push the stitch width former release lever and
remove the stitch width former from the lower
knife base. (Figure 71). Place the stitch width
former in the side door accessories
compartment.

6. Turn the stitch width adjusting dial (red dial)
until the marked “M” on the dial matches the
red indicator on the needle plate. (Figure 72).

7. Set the stitch length to “M”.

8. Lower the presser foot and the upper knife.

Setting the machine in the above manner will provide a narrow edge, but not a rolled edge. It creates an
attractive edge or seam for many fabrics, and is especially, suitable for edging firm fabrics.

Narrow rolled edging can be accomplished with either the three – thread or two – thread mode of operation,
and its appearance can be varied by tension adjustment and the use of specialty threads. You will usually let
the weight and characteristics of the fabric determine whether you use three or two – threads and how the
tensions should be set. See page 26 for instructions on “Narrow Rolled Edging”.

Retyped by mastersewusa.com

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10 – 2 Three – thread narrow rolled edge

Use three – thread rolled edging to provide a secure seam or
decorative edge on light to medium weight fabrics.

1. Remove the stitch finger. (See steps 3 ~ 5, page 25).

2. Remove left needle; use right needle only.

3. Adjust tension by rotating lower looper tension knob about 3
numbers higher than it is normally set for three – thread
sewing.

The tension adjustment tightens the lower looper thread, causing
the edge of the fabric to roll around the stitch finger. The upper
looper thread then wraps the fabric edge. Sew a test sample first
to determine if edge of fabric is sufficiently rolled. If not, continue to
tighten until desired effect is achieved. Record tension setting on
chart (page 35).

10 – 3 Two – thread narrow rolled edge

A two – thread narrow rolled edge is often preferred for hemming very soft fabrics which may otherwise develop undesired
stiffness with three – threads. It can also produce interesting “picot – like” effects on tricot and stretch knit fabrics if the
stitch is lengthened to “4”.

1. Remove the stitch finger. (See steps 3 ~ 5, page 25).

2. Remove left needle; use right needle only.

3. Set the machine for two – thread sewing (page 21).

4. Adjust the needle tension by rotating knob to “6”.

This tension adjustment tightens the needle thread and causes the lower looper thread to roll around the stitch finger,
wrapping the fabric edge. If “6” does not create a tight enough roll, turn to a higher number. If it is too tight, or the thread
breaks, turn to a lower number. Sew a test sample, and record tension settings on chart. (Page 35)

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10 – 4 Seaming sheers with rolled edge

Use the three – thread narrow edge setting when sewing sheer fabrics which would normally require French seam
finishing. The stitch length should be set at “2” and tension may be adjusted for a rolled or non – rolled finish,
according to your preference. Then, simply sew seams, aligning fabric with seam marks, and trimming away excess
fabric.

10 – 5 Lettuce edge

A fluted, or “lettuce” edge can be created on most light and medium weight stretch fabrics, including interlock,
jersey and ribbing, and it can also be done along the bias edge of soft, woven fabrics. It is appropriate on
sportswear, childrens wear, and accessories, but can also be very effective on eveningwear.

Set the machine for two – thread or three – thread rolled edging (rolled or unrolled), stitch width “M”. Edge the fabric
in the direction of greatest stretch, usually the crossgrain, or in the case of wovens, along the bias. More “lettucing”
can be developed by either slightly stretching fabric in front of presser foot as you sew, or stretching edge after it
has been sewn.

10 – 6 Resetting from narrow rolled edge to four – thread serging

1. Open both the front and side cover.

2. Raise the needle to the highest position.

3. Replace the stitch width former into groove of the lower
knife base until it snaps by pushing position lower knife
base by aligning the red indicator on the lower knife base.
Push the stitch width former back into position until it
snaps.

NOTE: Before installing the Stitch Width Former, remove any lint or dust from the channel with your lint brush or a
compressed air product.

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11 DIFFERENTIAL FEED ADJUSTMENT

The differential feed system is applicable when sewing either woven or stretch fabrics. The differential feed
adjusting lever is located on the upper right of the face plate. You may adjust the ratio of differential feed setting with
the range of 2.00 – 0.70 according to the fabric and desired results.

Differential feed adjustment

N : Both feed dogs are feeding equally.
N –0.70 : The front feed dog will take shorter strokes than the back feed dog, causing the fabric to be slightly

stretched as it is sewn. This adjustment causes the fabric to pull taut as it enters the needle, preventing
puckers on lightweight fabrics. This setting can also be used to create a fluted edge or to add additional
stretch in active wear and swim wear.

N – 2.00 : The font feed dog will move farther than the back feed dog, causing the fabric to be compressed or

ruffled. This increased motion causes the fabric to feed into the needle more rapidly than it feeds out, in
effect easing the fabric. This will eliminate wavy seams in stretch fabrics or in bias grain – line areas. Also
use these settings to automatically ease areas where additional fullness is required, such setting in a
sleeve. At the maximum setting of 2.00 the differential feed can actually gather a lightweight fabric to
nearly double fullness. It is recommended that the longest stitch length setting be used to maximize the
gathering effects.

12 SPECIALTY THREADS

There are a growing number of specialty threads available today which will sew well on your Baby Lock serger.
They can be used to enhance appearance, add strength or elasticity, or create special effects, depending on the
characteristics of the thread you choose.
Keep in mind that quality and characteristics of a thread will vary greatly from one manufacturer to another. Some
specialty threads work well through the needle and loopers, while others may be too heavy to be threaded through
the needle and are for looper use only. Due to the thickness or coarseness of most of these threads, it is usually
necessary to loosen the tension disc that the specialty thread passes through.
Use the following chart as a guide in the use of specialty threads. As you become more confident with serger
sewing, experiment with additional threads and serging ideas.

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13 SPECIALTY THREAD GUIDE

APPLICATION

4-thread seaming

3-thread seaming

2-thread flatlock

4-thread edging

3-thread edging

2-thread edging

3-thread narrow
rolled edging

2-thread narrow
rolled edging

COMMENTS

Synthetic Topstitch/

Buttonhole Twist

Edging or flatlock
seaming all type
sportswear, home
decorator items

Use in upper looper
only

Use in lower looper
only

May work satisfactorily
in size 14 needle; not in
size 11.

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Soft, Stretchy

Nylon

Excellent for providing
soft elastic seams on
lingerie, swimwear,
activewear, silky, rolled
edge.

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

May be used through
needle. Tensions may
need to be adjusted.

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Metallic

Highly decorative edge
for sportswear, evening
wear, holiday gifts and
home décor.

Yes, for outside
exposed seam only

Yes, for outside
exposed seam only

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Vary greatly according
to manufacturer. Avoid
those with coarse,
metal fibers.
Experiment to find
which works best.

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Monofilament

Nylon

(Transparent)

Fashion accessories,
home decorator items
requiring strong seams,
thread invisibility

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes – Soft, lightweight
monofilament only

Yes – Soft, lightweight
monofilament only

Some brands are too
heavy and wiry to loop
well. Look for
lightweight, supple
selection.

Lingerie/ Machine

Embroidery

Lingerie, lightweight
fabrics where stress is
not a factor, edging soft
fabrics.

Yes

Yes

Not appropriate

Yes

Yes

Yes

Use in needle and
upper looper. May
break in lower looper.

Lower looper only.

Silk or Rayon

Topstitch

High luster edging or
flatlock seaming for
elegant fashion
garments and
accessories

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Use in upper looper
only

Use in upper looper
only

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Pearl Cotton

Crochet Cotton

2-ply Baby Yarn

1/16” Ribbon

(Silk, Rayon)

Edging or flatlock,
seaming of garments,
accessories, home
decorator and nursery
items.

Not appropriate

Not appropriate

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Not appropriate

Not appropriate

Require testing and
experimentation to
achieve tension
balance. It may be
necessary to by – pass
tension disc altogether.
Use in loopers only.

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14 REPLACING NEEDLES

1. Raise needle to highest position by turning handwheel toward you.

2. Loosen black needle clamp screw (use small
screwdriver) and remove needle.

3. Insert new needle with flat side of the needle to the
back and tighten needle clamp screw.

Note: You will find it easier to hold the needle with the long tweezers rather tan between your fingers.

15 REPLACING KNIVES

The upper knife is made of special long – lasting steel and does not require frequent replacement. The lower knife is
made of softer steel and will need to be replaced periodically. A spare lower knife is in the accessory kit.

* Replacing the lower knife.

1. Open the front cover.

2. Move the upper knife to the “up” position.

3. Remove the lower knife clamp screw and the
lower knife.

4. Insert the new knife into the groove and move it
up until the upper edge is flush with the top of the
needle plate.

5. Tighten the lower knife clamp screw.

6. Close the front cover.

* Replacing the upper knife.

1. Open the front cover and rotate handwheel to
bring the upper knife to its lowest position.

2. Remove the upper knife clamp screw, washer
and knife. (Figure 88).

3. Insert a new knife with longer point to the rear.

4. Align the top of the knife with the top of the front
cover and tighten the screw temporarily.

5. Align the upper knife so that its lower front edge
overlaps the lower knife by 1 mm. Tighten the
screw firmly.

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16 REPLACING A LIGHT BULB

1. Turn the power “off” and do not attempt to change the bulb until it is cool.

2. Loosen the lamp cover clamp screw and remove the lamp cover. (Figure 89)

3. Remove old bulb with your left hand and insert new one (10 ~ 15W/110V, over 200 voltage country 10 ~ 15W/
240V) as shown in Figure 90.

4. Replace lamp cover and tighten screw.

17 CLEANING

Your Baby Lock serger will operate at best performance for many years if kept clean at all times. The
cutting action of the serger creates much more lint than you will find on convential sewing machine. This
lint impedes the efficiency of the serger and also acts as a sponge to draw oil from it.

Your serger needs no oiling for many years because the major moving parts are made from oil –
impregnated metal. Use the cleaning brush often during garment construction to keep lint off the knives,
needle and feed dogs. We also recommend an aerosol lint remover such a Lint B Gone ™.

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18 TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE

Before taking your machine in for service, check the following:
*

Machine fails to start …

1. Are electrical plugs properly connected?

2. Is the power switch turned on?

3. Check household circuit breaker or fuse.

* Thread breaks…

1. Is machine threaded correctly? Check each thread guide, all tension discs.

2. Did you unthread the needles before rethreading the lower looper?

3. Is the needle inserted correctly?

4. Is the needle blunt?

5. Is tension adjusted too tightly?

6. Is tension adjusted to accommodate thickness of thread being used?

7. Are you using inferior quality thread?

8. Is thread feeding off spool/cone freely?

9. Is the needle size correct for the type fabric being used?

* Fabric will not feed into machine…

1. Is the presser foot down?

2. Are the knife blades sharp?

3. Are the knife blades clean of lint?

4. Is the presser foot properly adjusted?

5. Are the feed dogs and presser foot free of lint?

6. Are the knives properly set and is the upper knife against the lower knife?

7. Is stitch length set properly?

* Seam unbalanced…

1. Is the serger threaded correctly?

2. Is the needle tension too loose for type fabric being used?

3. Are the looper tensions properly adjusted?

4. Is the thread in the tension disc?

5. Have you changed to specialty threads are not made tension adjustments to accommodate thread thickness
variation?

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19 SPECIFICATION

Item Specification

Stitch width (standard)
Stitch width (narrow rolled edging)
Stitch length
Number of threads
Needle
Maximum sewing speed
Machine weight
Lamp

3.5 ~ 7.5 mm

1.5 mm (M)
1 ~ 4 mm
4, 3 or 2 thread
DC x 1F #11 or # 14
1500 rpm

7.5 kg (with motor)
15W/110V
10W/240V (over 200 voltage country)

20 DO’S AND DON’TS

1. Always be aware of the up – and – down movement of the needle and do not turn your attention
from the machine while it is running.

2. When changing the needle, the presser foot, or any other parts, always disconnect the machine by
turning the power switch to “off”.

3. Do not place anything on the speed controller, otherwise the machine will start inadvertently, or the
controller or motor may burn out.

4. The maximum permissible power for the sewing lamp bulb 10 ~ 15 watts 110 volts or 15 watts 240
volts (over 200 voltage country).

5. When using your serger for the first time, place a piece of waste fabric under the presser foot and
run the machine without thread for a few minutes. Wipe away any oil which may have appeared.

6. Do not pull fabric from rear of machine, this may damage looper mechanism.

7. To prevent possible injury, always avoid body contact with any moving parts and machine
mechanism.

Special Caution: Unplug the power cord from the power source when the machine is not in use.

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21 CHART FOR TENSION ADJUSTMENT

FABRIC

LIGHTWEIGHT /DELICATE

Chiffon, Organdy, Silk voile,
Tricot, Jersey, Crepe, Taffeta,
Crepe de chine.

MEDIUM WEIGHT

Cotton broadcloth, Cotton –
polyester blends, Chintz,
Sheeting, Gingham, Linen,
Satin, Poplin Wool, Corduroy,
Suede, Cloth, Gabardine,
Double Knit, Velour, Fleece,
Spandex

HEAVY WEIGHT

Denim, Wool coating,
Canvas, Upholstery, Fake fur

Chart indicates the suggested range of tension numbers for each stitch category.
As you determine the specific settings for your machine, note them on the chart.

NEEDLE

SIZE

11

11 ~ 14

14

THREAD

Long staple
polyester

Fine mercerized
cotton

Silk

Long staple
polyester

Size 50
mercerized
cotton

Long staple
polyester

Size 40 ~ 50
mercerized
cotton

STITCH

TYPE

4-thread seaming
or overcastting

3-thread seaming
or overcastting

2-thread flatlock
or overcastting

3-thread narrow
rolled edge

2-thread narrow
rolled edge
4-thread seaming
or overcastting

3-thread seaming
or overcastting

2-thread flatlock
or overcastting

3-thread narrow
rolled edge

2-thread narrow
rolled edge
4-thread seaming
or overcastting

3-thread seaming
or overcastting

2-thread seaming
or overcastting

3-thread narrow
rolled edge

2-thread narrow
rolled edge

STITCH

LENGTH

2 ~ 3
2 ~ 3

2 ~ 3

M (1.5)

M (1.5)

3

3

3

M (1.5)

M (1.5)

3 ~ 4

3 ~ 4

3 ~ 1

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STITCH

WIDTH

5.7 ~ 7.5

3.5 ~ 7.5

3.5 ~ 7.5

M

M

5.7 ~ 7.5

3.5 ~ 7.5

3.5 ~ 7.5

M

M

5.7 ~ 7.5

5.7 ~ 7.5

5.7 ~ 7.5

ORANGE

L Needle

5 ~ 8

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

5 ~ 7

N/A

5 ~ 7

N/A

0.5 ~ 2

N/A

N/A

6 ~ 8

N/A

3 ~ 5

N/A

0.5 ~ 1.5

TENSIONS

YELLOW
R Needle

4 ~ 6
5 ~ 7

N/A

0.5 ~ 1.5
N/A

2 ~ 4

3 ~ 5

4 ~ 6
5 ~ 7

N/A

0.5 ~ 2
N/A

3 ~ 5

4 ~ 6
5 ~ 7
3 ~ 5

N/A

0.5 ~ 2
N/A

NOT SUITABLE

NOT SUITABLE

GREEN

Upper looper

2 ~ 4
2 ~ 4

N/A

2 ~ 4

N/A

2 ~ 4

2 ~ 4

2 ~ 4

2 ~ 5

N/A

2 ~ 4

1 ~ 3

N/A

BLUE
Lower
looper

2 ~ 4
2 ~ 4

2 ~ 4

8 ~ 9

3 ~ 5

2 ~ 4

2 ~ 4

2 ~ 4

8 ~ 9

3 ~ 5

2 ~ 4

2 ~ 4

5 ~ 7

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