Baby Lock Melody, BLMY Instruction And Reference Manual

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CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING
Your machine is the most advanced computerized household sewing machine. To fully enjoy all the features incorporated, we suggest that you study the manual.
PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE
For safe operation
1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the handwheel, thread take­up lever, needle, or other moving parts.
2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when:
• Operation is completed
• Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts
• A power failure occurs during use
• Maintaining the machine
• Leaving the machine unattended.
3. Do not store anything on the foot controller.
4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.
For a longer service life
1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
3. Do not drop or hit the machine.
4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
For repair or adjustment
In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Baby Lock retailer.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice. For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.babylock.com
FOR USERS IN AC INPUT 220-240V
COUNTRIES AND MEXICO
This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.
DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,
when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the
machine unattended.
WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.
2Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual:
• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp
the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.
• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.
3 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest
authorized retailer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat,
discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine and immediately unplug the power cord.
4 Always keep your work area clear:
• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
Do not store objects on the foot controller.
Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.
Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine,
power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.
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5 Special care is required when sewing:
Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.
• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
• Switch the sewing machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments
in the needle area.
Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.
Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching
so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.
6 This machine is not a toy:
• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.
• Do not use outdoors.
7 For a longer service life:
• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store
the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet,
needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
8 For repair or adjustment:
• If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized retailer.
• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table
in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Baby Lock retailer.
Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.
Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.
For additional product information, visit our web site at www.babylock.com
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
This machine is intended for household use.
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Contents
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ...............................................................................1
Introduction ........................................................................................................................ 6
Sewing Machine Features ....................................................................................................6
Accessories .......................................................................................................................... 7
Included accessories .........................................................................................................................................7
Optional accessories.........................................................................................................................................8
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ..................................................................... 9
Front view.........................................................................................................................................................9
Needle and presser foot section .....................................................................................................................10
Right-side/rear view ........................................................................................................................................10
Operation buttons...........................................................................................................................................11
Operation panel..............................................................................................................................................12
GETTING READY 13
Turning the Machine On/Off.............................................................................................14
Power supply precautions ...............................................................................................................................14
Turning on the machine.................................................................................................................................. 15
Turning off the machine..................................................................................................................................15
Understanding the LCD Screens........................................................................................16
Changing the Machine Settings ......................................................................................... 17
Changing the settings ......................................................................................................................................17
Adjusting the brightness of the LCD ...............................................................................................................19
Changing the screen language.........................................................................................................................19
Winding/Installing the Bobbin...........................................................................................20
Bobbin precautions .........................................................................................................................................20
Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................20
Installing the bobbin .......................................................................................................................................24
Upper Threading ............................................................................................................... 26
Threading the upper thread .............................................................................................................................26
Threading the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 29
Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader) ............................................................... 31
Using the twin needle ..................................................................................................................................... 31
Pulling up the bobbin thread...........................................................................................................................34
Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................ 35
Needle precautions.........................................................................................................................................35
Needle types and their uses............................................................................................................................. 36
Checking the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 37
Replacing the needle.......................................................................................................................................37
Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................ 39
Presser foot precautions .................................................................................................................................. 39
Replacing the presser foot ...............................................................................................................................39
Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot ....................................................................................................... 41
Removing the presser foot holder ................................................................................................................... 41
Using the walking foot .................................................................................................................................... 42
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces....................................................................................44
Stitching cylindrical pieces..............................................................................................................................44
Sewing large pieces of fabric...........................................................................................................................44
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SEWING BASICS 47
Sewing...............................................................................................................................48
General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................. 48
Positioning the fabric ......................................................................................................................................49
Starting to sew.................................................................................................................................................50
Securing the stitching ......................................................................................................................................52
Cutting the thread ...........................................................................................................................................53
Adjusting the Thread Tension ............................................................................................55
Thread tension ................................................................................................................................................55
Changing the tension of the upper thread ....................................................................................................... 56
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ..............................................................................57
Adjusting the stitch width................................................................................................................................ 57
Adjusting the stitch length ............................................................................................................................... 58
Useful Functions................................................................................................................59
Changing the needle stop position .................................................................................................................59
Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches ......................................................................................59
Automatically cutting the thread ....................................................................................................................61
Saving stitch settings .......................................................................................................................................62
Hands-free raising and lowering of the presser foot ........................................................................................63
Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................64
Trial sewing ....................................................................................................................................................64
Changing the sewing direction........................................................................................................................64
Sewing curves.................................................................................................................................................64
Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................................................65
Sewing thin fabrics..........................................................................................................................................65
Sewing stretch fabrics......................................................................................................................................65
Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics ......................................................................................................................66
Sewing an even seam allowance .................................................................................................................... 66
UTILITY STITCHES 67
Selecting Stitching .............................................................................................................68
Selecting stitch types and patterns .................................................................................................................. 68
Selecting stitching ...........................................................................................................................................70
Overcasting Stitches ..........................................................................................................74
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” ...................................................................................74
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”............................................................................................. 75
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter ...............................................................................76
Basic Stitching ...................................................................................................................78
Basting ............................................................................................................................................................78
Basic stitching.................................................................................................................................................79
Blind Hem Stitching .......................................................................................................... 80
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing..................................................................................82
Buttonhole sewing ..........................................................................................................................................83
Button sewing .................................................................................................................................................87
Zipper Insertion................................................................................................................. 89
Inserting a centered zipper ..............................................................................................................................89
Inserting a side zipper .....................................................................................................................................91
Zipper/piping Insertion ..................................................................................................... 94
Inserting a centered zipper ..............................................................................................................................94
Inserting a piping ............................................................................................................................................95
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ............................................................................96
Stretch stitching...............................................................................................................................................96
Elastic attaching ..............................................................................................................................................96
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Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching .......................................................................... 98
Appliqué stitching ...........................................................................................................................................99
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching .................................................................................................................. 100
Hand quilting stitch.......................................................................................................................................100
Piecing..........................................................................................................................................................100
Quilting ........................................................................................................................................................102
Free-motion quilting......................................................................................................................................103
Satin stitching using the sewing speed controller .......................................................................................... 104
Reinforcement Stitching ..................................................................................................106
Triple stretch stitching...................................................................................................................................106
Bar tack stitching...........................................................................................................................................106
Darning......................................................................................................................................................... 108
Eyelet Stitching ................................................................................................................110
Horizontal Stitching ........................................................................................................ 111
Decorative Stitching ........................................................................................................113
Fagoting........................................................................................................................................................114
Scallop stitching............................................................................................................................................115
Smocking......................................................................................................................................................115
Shell tuck stitching........................................................................................................................................116
Joining ..........................................................................................................................................................117
Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................117
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns .............................................................120
Sewing beautiful patterns ..............................................................................................................................120
Sewing patterns.............................................................................................................................................120
Combining patterns.......................................................................................................................................121
Repeat sewing patterns.................................................................................................................................. 122
Checking the selected pattern ....................................................................................................................... 122
Changing the pattern size..............................................................................................................................123
Changing the stitch density ........................................................................................................................... 124
Changing the pattern length ..........................................................................................................................125
Shifting patterns ............................................................................................................................................126
Mirror imaging the pattern ............................................................................................................................ 127
Saving patterns..............................................................................................................................................128
Retrieving a pattern .......................................................................................................................................128
Realigning the pattern ...................................................................................................................................129
APPENDIX 131
Stitch Settings.................................................................................................................. 132
Utility stitches ...............................................................................................................................................132
Other stitches................................................................................................................................................138
Care and Maintenance .................................................................................................... 143
Cleaning the machine surface .......................................................................................................................143
Cleaning the race..........................................................................................................................................143
Troubleshooting .............................................................................................................. 145
Error messages ..............................................................................................................................................149
Nothing appears in the LCD.......................................................................................................................... 150
Operation beep.............................................................................................................................................150
Cancelling the operation beep ......................................................................................................................150
Index ................................................................................................................................152
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Introduction
Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the “Important Safety Instructions” (page 1), and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference.
Sewing Machine Features
a Easy upper threading
Since the spool can be installed at the front of the sewing machine, the upper thread can easily be threaded. In addition, the needle can be threaded with a simple operation (page 26).
b Full auto upper thread tension
The thread tension is adjusted automatically.
c Automatic thread-cutting
The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut the thread at the end of the stitching (page 61).
d One-touch lower threading
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread (page 24).
e Simple bobbin-winding
The bobbin can quickly and easily be wound with thread (page 20).
f Built-in stitches
You can select from the built-in stitches available, including utility stitches, character stitches and decorative stitches (page 70).
g Knee lifter
Use the knee lifter to raise and lower the presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free to handle the fabric (page
63).
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Accessories 7
Accessories
After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or damaged, contact your retailer.
Included accessories
The following items should also be included in the box.
Attaching the stitch pattern plate
The stitch pattern plate shows the stitch numbers and the patterns available with each stitch mode. Attach the stitch pattern plate to the handle as shown in the illustration below.
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
z Foot controller: Model N5V
This foot controller can be used on this machine model BLMY.
z The screw for the presser foot holder is available
through your authorized retailer. (Part code: XA4813-051)
z The organized accessory tray is available through your
authorized retailer. (Part code: XC4489-051)
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Optional accessories
The following are available as optional accessories.
1. Side cutter Part code: FA10
2. 1/4 inch quilting foot with guide
Part code: ESG-QGF
Memo
z Visit your Baby Lock retailer for a complete listing of optional accessories available for your machine.
1. 2. 3. 4.
5.
6. 7.
8.
9.
10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18.*
19.
20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26.
27.
28. 29.
30.
31.
32.
33. 34. 35.
36. 37. *75/11 2 needles
90/14 2 needles 90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)
No. Part Name Part Code No. Part Name Part Code
1 Buttonhole foot “A” XC2691-023 20 Cleaning brush X59476-021 2 Overcasting foot “G” XE6305-101 21 Eyelet punch XZ5051-001 3 Monogramming foot “N” XD0810-031 22 Screwdriver (large) XC8349-021 4 Zipper foot “I” X59370-021 23 Screwdriver (small) X55468-021 5 Zigzag foot “J” (on machine) XC3021-031 24 Spool cap (large) 130012-024 6 Blind stitch foot “R” XE2650-001 25 Spool cap (medium)(2) XE1372-001 7 Button fitting foot “M” XE2643-001 26 Spool cap (small) 130013-124 8 Walking foot XE1678-201 27 Extra spool pin XC4654-051
9 Quilting foot XE8786-001 28 Spool net XA5523-020 10 Stitch guide foot “P” X51804-001 29 Foot controller XC6651-221 11 Adjustable zipper/piping foot 103561-002 30 Extension table XD1103-051 12 Non stick foot XA4783-001 31 Knee lifter XA6941-052 13 Open toe foot XA7869-001 32 Operation manual XE8909-001 14 1/4 inch quilting foot XA3805-021 33 Quick reference guide XE8910-001 15 Quilting guide X59819-021 34 Hard case XC9701-053 16 Seam ripper X54243-051 35 Accessory bag XC4487-021 17 Bobbin (4) X52800-120 36 Disc-shaped screwdriver XC1074-051 18 Needle set X58358-021 37 Stitch pattern plate XE8907-001 19 Twin needle X59296-121
1. 2.
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions 9
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.
Front view
a Thread guide plate
Pass the thread under the thread guide plate.
b Thread guide cover
Pass the thread behind the thread guide cover when threading the upper thread.
c Spool pin
Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.
d Bobbin winding thread guide and pretension disk
Pass the thread under this thread guide and around the pretension disk when winding the bobbin thread.
e Top cover
Open the top cover to place the spool of thread on the spool pin.
f Bobbin winder
Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.
g Operation panel
Use for stitch selection and various stitch functions. (page 12)
h Knee lifter mounting slot
Insert the knee lifter into the knee lifter mounting slot.
i Operation buttons and sewing speed controller
Use these buttons and the slide to operate the sewing machine. (page 11)
j Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment
Store presser feet and bobbins in the accessory compartment of the flat bed attachment. When sewing cylindrical pieces, remove the flat bed attachment.
k Thread cutter
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
l Needle threader lever
Use the needle threader to thread the needle.
m Thread take-up lever check window
Look through the window to check the position of the take-up lever.
1
9
8
0
A
B
C
2
3
4
5
6
7
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Needle and presser foot
section
a Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is used with the one-step buttonhole foot to create buttonholes.
b Thread guide disk
Pass the thread through the thread guide disk when using the needle threader to thread the needle.
c Needle bar thread guide
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide.
d Needle plate
The needle plate is marked with guides to help sew straight seams.
e Needle plate cover
Remove the needle plate cover to clean the bobbin case and race.
f Bobbin cover
Open the bobbin cover to set the bobbin.
g Feed dogs
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
h Presser foot
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitch.
i Presser foot holder
The presser foot is attached onto the presser foot holder.
Right-side/rear view
a Presser foot dial
Use the presser foot dial to adjust the amount of pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric.
b Handle
Carry the sewing machine by its handle when transporting the machine.
c Handwheel
Turn the handwheel toward you to raise and lower the needle. The handwheel should be turned towards you (counterclockwise).
d Air vent
The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to circulate. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing machine is being used.
e Main power switch
Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine ON and OFF.
f Foot controller jack
Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable into the foot controller jack.
g Power supply jack
Insert the plug on the power cord into the power supply jack.
h Feed dog position switch
Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs.
i Presser foot lever
Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot.
Memo
z Refer to pages 9 through 12 while you are
learning to use your machine.
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions 11
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Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.
a “Start/Stop” button /
Press the “Start/Stop” button to start or stop sewing. The machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 50). The button lights up in green, red or orange, depending on how the sewing machine is being operated.
b “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button
Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other. For details, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 52).
c “Needle Position” button
Press the “Needle Position” button to raise or lower the needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.
d “Thread Cutter” button
Press the “Thread Cutter” button after stopping sewing to cut both the upper and the bobbin threads. For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 53).
e Sewing speed controller
Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed.
CAUTION
Note
z Do not press (“Thread Cutter” button) if
there is no fabric under the presser foot or while the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to the machine may occur.
z When cutting thread thicker than #30, nylon
thread or other special threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine. For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page
53).
Green: When the machine is ready to start
sewing or while it is sewing
Red: When the machine is not ready to
start sewing
Orange: When the bobbin winder shaft is
moved to the right for winding the bobbin thread onto the bobbin
Do not press (“Thread Cutter” button) after the threads have already been cut, otherwise the needle may break, the threads may become tangled or damage to the machine may occur.
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Operation panel
The operation panel, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, consists of the LCD (liquid crystal display) and keys for specifying various sewing settings.
a LCD (liquid crystal display)
Settings for the selected stitch and error messages for incorrect operations appear in the LCD. Use keys b and g through s, described below, to display various items and select the settings. For details, refer to “Understanding the LCD Screens” (page 16).
b Settings key
Press this key to select sewing settings, such as for left/ right mirror imaging, or other settings such as the operation beep.
c Needle stop position key
Press this key to select where the needle is positioned when the sewing machine is stopped.
d Automatic thread cutting key
Press this key to select the automatic thread cutting setting. Press this key again to cancel the setting.
e Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key
Press this key to select the automatic reverse/ reinforcement stitching setting. Press this key again to cancel the setting.
f Needle mode selection key (single/twin)
Press this key to select the twin needle sewing setting. Each time this key is pressed, the setting switches between that for single needle sewing and for twin needle sewing.
g Thread tension keys
The thread tension is usually set automatically. Press
or to adjust the thread tension setting.
h Stitch width keys
Press or to adjust the stitch width setting.
i Stitch length keys
Press or to adjust the stitch length setting.
Stitch mode keys (j-m)
j Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key
Press this key to select the utility stitch assigned to a numeric key or to retrieve a pattern that has been saved. Each time this key is pressed, the machine switches between the preset utility stitch mode and the saved pattern mode.
k Utility stitch key
Press this key to select a straight stitch, zigzag stitch, buttonhole, blind hem stitch, or other stitches commonly used in garment sewing. Use the numeric keys to type in the number of the desired stitch.
l Decorative stitch key
Press this key to select a decorative stitch, satin stitch, cross­stitch or decorative satin stitch. Each time this key is pressed, the stitch group switches between and .
m Character stitch key
Press this key to select a character stitch. Each time this key is pressed, the font switches to one of the three available.
n Manual memory key
Press this key to save the adjusted thread tension and stitch width and length settings.
o Reset key
Press this key to reset the selected stitch to its original settings.
p Memory key
Press this key to save stitch patterns, such as combined patterns, in the sewing machine's memory.
q OK key
Press this key to apply the selection or perform the operation.
r Cancel/clear key
Press this key to cancel the operation and return to the previous screen. In addition, pressing this key removes the last pattern added when combining characters or decorative stitches.
s Numeric keys
Use these keys to quickly select one of the ten most often used stitches. When selecting other stitches, use these keys to type in the number of the desired stitch.
1 2
3 4
5 6
H
I
G
7
8
9
D
E
F
0
A
B
C
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1 GETTING READY
The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter.
TTurning the Machine On/Off ..................................................................................14
Power supply precautions ..................................................................................14
Turning on the machine .....................................................................................15
Turning off the machine .....................................................................................15
Understanding the LCD Screens..............................................................................16
Changing the Machine Settings ...............................................................................17
Changing the settings .........................................................................................17
Adjusting the brightness of the LCD ...................................................................19
Changing the screen language
..............................................................................19
Winding/Installing the Bobbin.................................................................................20
Bobbin precautions ............................................................................................20
Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................... 20
Installing the bobbin ..........................................................................................24
Upper Threading .....................................................................................................26
Threading the upper thread................................................................................ 26
Threading the needle..........................................................................................29
Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)..................31
Using the twin needle ........................................................................................ 31
Pulling up the bobbin thread..............................................................................34
Replacing the Needle ..............................................................................................35
Needle precautions ............................................................................................35
Needle types and their uses................................................................................ 36
Checking the needle...........................................................................................37
Replacing the needle ..........................................................................................37
Replacing the Presser Foot ...................................................................................... 39
Presser foot precautions .....................................................................................39
Replacing the presser foot..................................................................................39
Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot ..........................................................41
Removing the presser foot holder ......................................................................41
Using the walking foot .......................................................................................42
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces..........................................................................44
Stitching cylindrical pieces................................................................................. 44
Sewing large pieces of fabric..............................................................................44
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GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
14
Turning the Machine On/Off
This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.
Power supply precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.
WARNING
CAUTION
Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
• Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power supply jack on the machine.
• Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms
Use only the power cord included with this machine.
Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to
them. Fire or electric shock may result.
Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to
remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.
Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized retailer for repairs before continuing use.
Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result.
Page 17
Turning the Machine On/Off 15
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Turning on the machine
Prepare the included power cord.
a
Make sure that the sewing machine is turned off (the main power switch is set to “ ”), and then plug the power cord into the power supply jack on the right side of the machine.
b
Insert the plug of the power cord into a household electrical outlet.
a Power supply jack
c
Press the right side of the main power switch on the right side of the machine (set it to “|”).
X The sewing lamp and the LCD come on
when the machine is turned on.
Turning off the machine
When you are finished using the sewing machine, turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.
a
Make sure that the machine is not sewing.
b
Press the left side of the main power switch on the right side of the machine (set it to “ ”).
X The sewing lamp and the LCD go off when
the machine is turned off.
c
Unplug the power cord from the electrical outlet.
Grasp the plug when unplugging the power cord.
d
Unplug the power cord from the power supply jack.
Note
z If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power cord. When restarting the sewing machine, follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine. (For U.S.A. only)
z This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
1
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16
Understanding the LCD Screens
The LCD screen, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, displays the settings for the selected stitch and error messages if operations are performed incorrectly.When the sewing machine is turned on, the LCD comes on and the following screen appears.
a Presser foot that should be used b Stitch mode c Selected stitch d Stitch length (mm) e Stitch width (mm) f Upper thread tension
Memo
z For details on the error messages that appear when an operation is performed incorrectly, refer to “Error
messages” (page 149).
1
2
5 6
4
3
Page 19
Changing the Machine Settings 17
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Changing the Machine Settings
Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed.
Changing the settings
The general procedure for changing machine settings is described below.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
X The LCD comes on.
b
Press (Settings key) in the operation panel.
X The settings screen appears.
c
Press or (Stitch length keys) until the
stitch or machine attribute that you wish to set
is displayed.
a Stitch length keys
d
Press or (Stitch width keys) until the desired setting is selected.
X The setting is changed.
e
Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear key).
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
1
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18
List of stitch or machine attributes
The stitch or machine attributes that can be set are listed below. For details on each attribute, refer to the corresponding reference page.
Memo
z The icon shown highlighted above is the default setting. z The default display language is English.
Attribute Icon Details Reference
Check pattern Allows combined patterns to be checked. page 122
Mirror imaging Mirror images patterns along a vertical axis. page 127
Pattern length Adjusts the length of satin stitches. page 125
Pattern size Sets the size of patterns to be large or small. page 123
Repeated/ single sewing
Specifies whether the pattern will be sewn once or repeatedly.
page 122
Stitching density
Specifies the sewing density of the stitching. page 124
Initial needle position
Select the straight stitch that is automatically selected when the machine is turned on.
-
Stitch width control
Allows the stitch width to be adjusted with the sewing speed controller.
page 104
Language
Allows the language used in the screens to be changed.
page 19
Buzzer
Specifies whether or not a beep is sounded with each operation.
page 150
LCD brightness Adjusts the brightness of the LCD. page 19
Vertical pattern adjustment
Adjusts the up and down position of the pattern. page 129
Horizontal pattern adjustment
Adjusts the left and right position of the pattern. page 129
Page 21
Changing the Machine Settings 19
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Adjusting the brightness of the LCD
The brightness of the LCD can be adjusted.
a
Press (Settings key) in the operation
panel, and then press or (Stitch length
keys) until is displayed.
X The screen for changing the brightness of the
LCD appears.
b
To make the LCD brighter, press (Stitch width key). To make the LCD darker, press
(Stitch width key).
X The brightness of the LCD is changed.
c
Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear
key).
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
Changing the screen language
The language used in the screens that are displayed can be changed to one of the many available.
a
Press (Settings key) in the operation
panel, and then press or (Stitch length
keys) until the language is displayed.
X The screen for changing the language of the
screens appears.
b
Press or (Stitch width keys) until the desired language is selected.
The language can be changed to one of the available: English, French, German, Dutch, Spanish, Italian, Danish, Norwegian, Finnish, Swedish, Portuguese, Russian, Japanese, Korean or others.
X The language of the screens is changed.
c
Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear
key).
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
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20
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.
Bobbin precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin.
CAUTION
Winding the bobbin
Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the bobbin thread.
a Bobbin winder
Memo
z The order that the machine should be threaded for winding the bobbin is indicated by a broken line on
the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.
Only use the bobbin (part code: X52800-150) designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
The included bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: X52800-150 ).
11.5 mm
Actual size
This model
Other model
(7/16 inch)
1
Page 23
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 21
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a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Open the top cover.
c
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch in the bobbin. Press down on the bobbin until it snaps into place.
a Notch b Bobbin winder shaft spring
d
Slide the bobbin winder in the direction of the arrow until it snaps into place.
/ (“Start/Stop” button) lights up in
orange.
e
Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the spool pin.
a Spool pin b Spool cap
f
Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto the spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom.
• If the spool is not positioned so that the thread unwinds correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin.
g
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right, as shown, with the rounded side on the left.
CAUTION
2
1
1
2
If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin and the needle may break.
Three spool cap sizes are available (large, medium and small), allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool and the needle may break.
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22
Memo
z When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread,
use the small spool cap, and leave a small space between the cap and the spool.
a Spool cap (small) b Spool (cross-wound thread) c Space
z When using thread that winds off quickly,
such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, place the spool net over the spool before placing the spool of thread onto the spool pin. If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the size of the spool. When the spool net is used, the tension of the upper thread will slightly increase. Be sure to check the thread tension. For details, refer to “Adjusting the Thread Tension” (page 55).
a Spool net b Spool c Spool cap d Spool pin
h
While holding the thread near the spool with your right hand, as shown, pull the thread with your left hand, and then pass the thread behind the thread guide cover and to the front.
a Thread guide cover
i
Pass the thread under the thread guide plate, and then pull it to the right.
a Thread guide plate
j
Pass the thread under the hook on the thread guide, and then wind it counterclockwise under the pretension disk.
a Thread guide and pretension disk
Note
z Make sure that the thread passes under the
pretension disk.
a
c
b
2
1
4
3
1
1
1
1
Page 25
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 23
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k
While holding the thread with your left hand, wind the thread that was pulled out clockwise around the bobbin five or six times with your right hand.
Note
z Make sure that the thread between the spool
and the bobbin is pulled tight.
z Be sure to wind the thread clockwise around
the bobbin, otherwise the thread will become wrapped around the bobbin winder shaft.
l
Pass the end of the thread through the guide slit in the bobbin winder seat, and then pull the thread to the right to cut it.
a Guide slit in bobbin winder seat
(with built-in cutter)
X The thread is cut to a suitable length.
CAUTION
m
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right to increase the bobbin winding speed and slide to left to decrease.
a Sewing speed controller
n
Press / (“Start/Stop” button) once.
a “Start/Stop” button
• When the bobbin winding becomes slow,
press / (“Start/Stop” button) once
to stop the machine.
CAUTION
o
Use scissors to cut the end of the thread wound around the bobbin.
p
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left.
Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the bobbin is wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may become tangled in the bobbin and the needle may bend or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out.
1
When the bobbin winding becomes slow, stop the machine, otherwise the sewing machine may be damaged.
1
1
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GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
24
q
Remove the bobbin from the shaft.
Memo
z When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.
Installing the bobbin
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
CAUTION
Memo
z The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the bobbin case is indicated by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.
a
Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.
a Bobbin cover b Latch
X The bobbin cover opens.
b
Remove the bobbin cover.
c
Hold the bobbin with your right hand and hold the end of the thread with your left.
• Be careful not to drop the bobbin.
d
Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case so that the thread unrolls to the left.
• Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly.
CAUTION
Memo
z The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the bobbin case is indicated by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.
Use a bobbin that has been correctly wound with thread, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.
The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: X52800-150).
Actual size
11.5 mm
This model Other model
(7/16 inch)
Be sure to install the bobbin so that the thread unwinds in the correct direction, otherwise the thread may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.
2
1
Page 27
Winding/Installing the Bobbin 25
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e
Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right hand, and then guide the thread as shown with your left hand.
CAUTION
f
Pass the thread through the slot as shown, and then pull the thread out toward the front.
a Cutter
X The cutter cuts the thread.
Note
z Make sure that the thread is correctly
inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case. If it is not inserted correctly, reinsert the thread.
a Tension-adjusting spring
g
Reattach the bobbin cover.
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.
X The lower threading is finished.
Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with the procedure in “Upper Threading” (page 26).
Memo
z You can begin sewing without pulling up the
bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull up the thread according to the procedure in “Pulling up the bobbin thread” (page 34).
When installing the bobbin, be sure to hold it down with your finger. If the bobbin is not correctly installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.
1
1
1
2
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GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
26
Upper Threading
In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are described.
CAUTION
Memo
z The order that the machine should be
threaded is indicated by a solid line on the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.
Threading the upper thread
Set the spool of thread on the spool pin, and then thread the machine.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
b
Raise the presser foot lever to raise the presser foot.
a Presser foot lever
Note
z If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing
machine cannot be threaded.
When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled and the needle may bend or break.
a
Page 29
Upper Threading 27
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c
Press (“Needle Position” button) once or twice to raise the needle.
a “Needle Position” button
X The needle is correctly raised when the mark
on the handwheel is at the top, as shown below. Check the handwheel and, if this mark is not at this position, press (“Needle Position” button) until it is.
a Mark on handwheel
d
Open the top cover.
e
Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the spool pin.
a Spool pin b Spool cap
f
Place the spool of thread onto the spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom.
g
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right, as shown, with the rounded side on the left.
CAUTION
1
1
1
2
If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin and the needle may break.
Three spool cap sizes are available (large, medium and small), allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool and the needle may break.
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28
h
While holding the thread lightly with your right hand, pull the thread with your left hand, and then pass the thread behind the thread guide cover and to the front.
a Thread guide cover
i
Pass the thread under the thread guide plate, and then pull it up.
a Thread guide plate
j
While using your right hand to lightly hold the thread passed under the thread guide plate, pass the thread through the thread path in the order shown below.
a Shutter
Note
z If the presser foot has been lowered and the
shutter is closed, the machine cannot be threaded. Be sure to raise the presser foot and open the shutter before threading the machine. In addition, before removing the upper thread, be sure to raise the presser foot and open the shutter.
z This machine is equipped with a window
that allows you to check the position of the take-up lever. Look through this window and check that the thread is correctly fed through the take-up lever.
k
Pass the thread behind the needle bar thread guide.
The thread can easily be passed behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand, then feeding the thread with your right hand, as shown.
a Needle bar thread guide
Next, use the needle threader to thread the needle. Continue with the procedure in “Threading the needle” (page 29).
1
1
1
1
Page 31
Upper Threading 29
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Threading the needle
This section describes how to thread the needle.
Memo
z The needle threader can be used with
sewing machine needles 75/11 through 100/16.
z Thread with a thickness of 130/20 or thicker
cannot be used with the needle threader.
z The needle threader cannot be used with the
wing needle or the twin needle.
z If the needle threader cannot be used, refer
to “Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)” (page 31).
a
Pull the end of the thread passed through the needle bar thread guide to the left, and then pass the thread through the thread guide disk from the front.
a Thread guide disk
b
Cut the thread with the thread cutter on the left side of the machine.
a Thread cutter
Note
z If the thread is pulled through and cannot be
cut correctly, lower the presser foot so that the thread is held in place before cutting the thread. If this operation is performed, skip step
c.
z When using thread that quickly winds off the
spool, such as metallic thread, it may be difficult to thread the needle if the thread is cut. Therefore, instead of using the thread cutter, pull out about 80 mm (approx. 3 inches) of thread after passing it through the thread guide disks (marked “7”).
a 80 mm (3 inches) or more
c
Lower the presser foot lever to lower the presser foot.
a Presser foot lever
1
1
1
1
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GETTING READY — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
30
d
Lower the needle threader lever on the left side of the machine until it clicks, and then slowly return the lever to its original position.
a Needle threader lever
X The thread is passed through the eye of the
needle.
Note
z If the needle was not completely threaded,
but a loop in the thread was formed in the eye of the needle, carefully pull the loop through the eye of the needle to pull out the end of the thread.
CAUTION
e
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the thread through the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.
a 5 cm (2 inches)
X The upper threading is finished.
Now that the upper threading and the lower threading are finished, you are ready to begin sewing.
Note
z If the needle is not raised, the needle
threader cannot thread the needle. Be sure to press (“Needle Position” button) to raise the needle before using the needle threader.
When pulling out the thread, do not pull it with extreme force, otherwise the needle may break or bend.
1
1
Page 33
Upper Threading 31
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Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)
When using special thread, thread with a thickness of 130/20 or thicker, the wing needle or the twin needle which cannot be used with the needle threader, thread the needle as described below.
a
Thread the machine to the needle bar thread guide.
• For details, refer to “Upper Threading” (page
26).
b
Lower the presser foot lever.
a Pressor foot lever
c
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from front to back.
d
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the thread through the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.
Using the twin needle
With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines of the same stitch with two different threads. Both upper threads should have the same thickness and quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the extra spool pin and the spool cap. For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 132).
CAUTION
a
Install the twin needle.
• For details on installing a needle, refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 37).
b
Thread the upper thread for the left needle eye.
• For details, refer to steps
a through k of
“Threading the upper thread” (page 26).
c
Manually thread the left needle with the upper thread.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front.
• The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the sewing machine may be damaged.
1
Only use the twin needle (part code: X59296-151). Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.
Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
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32
d
Insert the extra spool pin onto the bobbin winder shaft.
Insert the extra spool pin so that it is perpendicular to the bobbin winder shaft.
a Bobbin winder shaft
e
Swing down the spool pin so that it is horizontal.
f
Place the upper thread spool for the needle on the right side onto the extra spool pin, and then secure it with the spool cap.
The thread should unroll from the top front of the spool.
a Spool cap b Spool
g
Thread the upper thread for the right side in the same way that the upper thread for the left side was threaded.
a Thread guide cover
• For details, refer to step h through j of
“Threading the upper thread” (page 26).
h
Without passing the thread through the needle bar thread guide, manually thread the right needle.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front.
• The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the sewing machine may be damaged.
i
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details on changing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 39).
CAUTION
j
Turn on the sewing machine.
X The LCD comes on.
1
12
When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
1
Page 35
Upper Threading 33
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k
Select a stitch.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 70).
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 132).
CAUTION
l
Press (Needle mode selection key).
X (Needle mode selection key) lights up,
and the twin needle can now be used.
• To return to single needle sewing, press
(Needle mode selection key) until the key is
no longer lit.
• Even after the sewing machine is turned off, the twin needle setting is not cancelled.
CAUTION
m
Start sewing.
• For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 50).
X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to
each other.
CAUTION
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
When using the twin needle, be sure to select the twin needle setting, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
When changing the sewing direction, press (“Needle Position” button) to raise the needle from the fabric, and then raise the presser foot lever and turn the fabric. Otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
Do not try turning the fabric with the twin needle left down in the fabric, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
Page 36
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34
Pulling up the bobbin thread
When making gathers or before free-motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.
a
Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.
• Refer to steps
a through e of “Installing the
bobbin” (page 24).
b
Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.
Do not cut the thread with the cutter.
c
While lightly holding the upper thread with your left hand with the needle in the up­position, press (“Needle Position” button) twice to lower and raise the needle.
a “Needle Position” button
X The bobbin thread is looped around the
upper thread and can be pulled up.
d
Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull out the end of the bobbin thread.
e
Pull out about 10-15 cm (4-5 inches) of the bobbin thread under the presser foot toward the rear of the machine.
f
Reattach the bobbin cover.
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.
1
1
2
Page 37
Replacing the Needle 35
1
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Replacing the Needle
This section provides information on sewing machine needles.
Needle precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.
CAUTION
Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.
Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
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36
Needle types and their uses
The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
Memo
z The smaller the thread number, the thicker
the thread, and the larger the needle number, the thicker the needle.
z Use the ball point needle when sewing on
stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.
z Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with
transparent nylon threads, regardless of the fabric being sewn.
z A 75/11 needle is already installed when the
sewing machine is purchased.
CAUTION
Fabric Type/Application
Thread
Size of Needle
Type Weight
Medium
weight fabrics
Broadcloth Cotton thread
60–80
75/11–90/14
Taffeta Synthetic thread
Flannel,
Gabardine
Silk thread 50
Thin fabrics
Lawn Cotton thread
60–80
65/9–75/11
Georgette Synthetic thread
Challis, Satin Silk thread 50
Thick
fabrics
Denim Cotton thread 30–50
90/14–100/16
Corduroy Synthetic thread
50
Tweed Silk thread
Stretch
fabrics
Jersey
Thread for knits 50–60
Ball point needle
(golden colored)
75/11–90/14
Tricot
Easily frayed fabrics
Cotton thread
50–80
65/9–90/14Synthetic thread
Silk thread 50
For top-stitching
Synthetic thread
30 90/14–100/16
Silk thread
The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the table above. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.
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Replacing the Needle 37
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Checking the needle
Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even.
a Flat side b Needle type marking
Correct needle
a Flat surface
Incorrect needle
If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use a bent needle.
a Flat surface
Replacing the needle
Replace the needle as described below. Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in “Checking the needle”.
a
Press (“Needle Position” button) once or twice to raise the needle.
a “Needle Position” button
b
Turn off the sewing machine.
CAUTION
c
Place fabric or paper under the presser foot to cover the hole in the needle plate.
Note
z Before replacing the needle, cover the hole
in the needle plate with fabric or paper to prevent the needle from falling into the machine.
1
2
1
1
Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if
/ (“Start/
Stop” button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
1
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38
d
Lower the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
e
Hold the needle with your left hand, and then use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp screw toward you (counterclockwise) to remove the needle.
a Screwdriver b Needle clamp screw
• Do not apply a strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged.
f
With the flat side of the needle toward the rear of the machine, insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper.
a Needle stopper
g
While holding the needle with your left hand, use the screwdriver to tighten the needle clamp screw.
Install the twin needle in the same way.
CAUTION
1
2
1
1
Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break or damage may result.
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Replacing the Presser Foot 39
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Replacing the Presser Foot
The presser foot presses down on the fabric.
Presser foot precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet.
CAUTION
Replacing the presser foot
Replace the presser foot as described below. For details on using the side cutter “S”, refer to “Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter” (page 76).
a
Press (“Needle Position” button) once or twice to raise the needle.
a “Needle Position” button
X The needle is raised.
b
Turn off the sewing machine.
CAUTION
c
Raise the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.
Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if
/ (“Start/
Stop” button) is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
1
a
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40
d
Press the black button at the back of the presser foot holder.
a Black button b Presser foot holder
X The presser foot holder releases the presser
foot.
e
Place a different presser foot below the holder so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the notch in the holder.
Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is positioned to be read.
a Presser foot holder b Notch c Pin
f
Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the presser foot holder.
a Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is attached.
g
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the presser foot is securely attached.
Note
z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears in the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again.
z For details on the presser foot that should be
used with the selected stitch, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 132).
a
b
a
b
c
1
Buttonhole foot “A”
Overcasting foot “G”
Zigzag foot “J”
Button fitting foot “M”
Monogramming foot “N”
Blind stitch foot “R”
Side cutter “S”
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Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot
The presser foot pressure (the amount of pressure applied to the fabric by the presser foot) can be adjusted. For best results, increase the pressure when sewing thin fabrics, and decrease the pressure when sewing thick fabrics.
a
Lower the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
b
Turn the presser foot pressure dial at the back of the machine to adjust the pressure of the presser foot.
The presser foot pressure can be set to one of four levels (between 1 and 4). The larger the setting, the stronger the pressure. Use setting 1 or 2 for thick fabrics, use setting 3 or 4 for thinner fabrics.
a Strong b Weak
c
When you are finished sewing, reset the dial to 3 (standard).
Removing the presser foot holder
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder, such as the quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder.
Removing the presser foot holder
a
Remove the presser foot.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 39).
b
Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot holder screw.
a Screwdriver b Presser foot holder c Presser foot holder screw
Attaching the presser foot holder
a
Align the presser foot holder with the lower­left side of the presser bar.
b
Hold the presser foot holder in place with your right hand, and then tighten the screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.
a Screwdriver
Note
z If the presser foot holder is not correctly
installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.
1
ab
a
b
c
1
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42
Using the walking foot
With the walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when quilting. Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot.
Attaching the walking foot
a
Remove the presser foot holder.
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser foot holder” (page 41).
b
Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot onto the needle clamp screw.
a Connecting fork b Needle clamp screw
c
Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw with the screwdriver.
a Presser foot holder screw
CAUTION
Note
z When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a
speed between slow and medium.
Removing the walking foot
a
Press (“Needle Position” button) once or twice to raise the needle.
a “Needle Position” button
X The needle is raised.
b
Turn off the sewing machine.
c
Raise the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
a
b
a
Be sure to securely tighten the screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.
Before starting to sew, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
1
a
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Replacing the Presser Foot 43
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d
With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot holder screw, and then remove the walking foot.
a Presser foot holder screw
e
Attach the presser foot holder.
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser foot holder” (page 41).
Memo
z Only the straight stitch (with reinforcement
stitching) and the zigzag stitch can be used with the walking foot. For details on the stitches, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 132).
a
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Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces
When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment.
Stitching cylindrical pieces
Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs.
a
Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.
X With the flat bed attachment removed, free-
arm sewing is possible.
b
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the arm, and then sew from the top.
c
When you are finished with free-arm sewing, install the flat bed attachment back in its original position.
Sewing large pieces of fabric
The extension table makes sewing large pieces of fabric easier.
a
Open up the legs at the bottom of the extension table.
Pull out the four legs until they snap into place.
b
Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.
X With the flat bed attachment removed, free-
arm sewing is possible.
c
Install the extension table.
Keeping the extension table level, fully slide it into place. The lower right corner section of the extension table extends over the front section of the sewing machine bed.
a Lower right corner b Sewing machine bed
1
2
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Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces 45
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d
Turn the screw at the bottom of each leg to adjust their height so the extension table will be level with the sewing machine bed.
CAUTION
e
When you are finished using the extension table, remove it.
While slightly lifting up the extension table, pull it off to the left.
f
Install the flat bed attachment back in its original position.
Memo
z With the legs folded up, the extension table
can be stored attached to the hard case.
z The knee lifter can be stored attached to the
bottom of the extension table.
Do not move the sewing machine while the extension table is attached, otherwise damage or injuries may occur.
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2 SEWING BASICS
The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.
Sewing.....................................................................................................................48
General sewing procedure .................................................................................48
Positioning the fabric .........................................................................................49
Starting to sew ...................................................................................................50
Securing the stitching .........................................................................................52
Cutting the thread ..............................................................................................53
Adjusting the Thread Tension ..................................................................................55
Thread tension ...................................................................................................55
Changing the tension of the upper thread .......................................................... 56
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ....................................................................57
Adjusting the stitch width ..................................................................................57
Adjusting the stitch length.................................................................................. 58
Useful Functions......................................................................................................59
Changing the needle stop position .....................................................................59
Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches
..........................................59
Automatically cutting the thread........................................................................61
Saving stitch settings ..........................................................................................62
Hands-free raising and lowering of the presser foot ...........................................63
Useful Sewing Tips ..................................................................................................64
Trial sewing........................................................................................................64
Changing the sewing direction
.............................................................................64
Sewing curves ....................................................................................................64
Sewing thick fabrics ...........................................................................................65
Sewing thin fabrics .............................................................................................65
Sewing stretch fabrics ........................................................................................65
Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics..........................................................................66
Sewing an even seam allowance ........................................................................66
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48
Sewing
Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.
CAUTION
General sewing procedure
Follow the basic procedures below to sew.
While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur.
Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break.
Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or
bend.
1 Turn on the machine.
Turn on the sewing machine.For details on turning on the machine, refer to “Turning on the machine” (page 15).
2 Select the stitch.
Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 70).
3 Attach the presser foot.
Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 39).
4 Position the fabric.
Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly.For details on positioning the fabric, refer to “Positioning the fabric” (page 49).
5 Start sewing.
Start sewing.For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
50).
6 Cut the thread.
Cut the thread at the end of sewing. The thread may also be cut automatically.For details on cutting the thread, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 53).
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Positioning the fabric
Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
The straight stitch (left needle position) is automatically selected.
b
Press (“Needle Position” button) once or twice to raise the needle.
a “Needle Position” button
c
Place the fabric under the presser foot.
• If the seam allowance is positioned on the right side, sewing in a straight line is easier and the extra fabric does not get in the way.
d
While holding the end of the thread and the fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching.
e
Lower the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.
Memo
z To adjust the pressure that the presser foot
applies to the fabric, refer to “Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot” (page 41).
1
1
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50
Starting to sew
Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted using either the sewing speed controller or the foot controller.
Note
Important:
z When the foot controller is plugged in, /
(“Start/Stop” button) cannot be used to
start or stop sewing.
Using the operation buttons
Sewing can be started and stopped using the operation button / (“Start/Stop” button).
a
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
a Sewing speed controller
b
Press / (“Start/Stop” button) once.
a “Start/Stop” button
X The machine starts sewing.
• If you continue to hold /
(“Start/
Stop” button) after the sewing starts, the machine will sew at a slow speed.
c
When the end of the stitching is reached, press
/ (“Start/Stop” button) once.
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
down (in the fabric).
d
When you are finished sewing, raise the needle, and then cut the threads.
X For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
(page 53).
Using the foot controller
Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot controller.
a
Turn off the sewing machine.
When connecting the foot controller, be sure to turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started.
1
1
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Sewing 51
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b
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on the side of the sewing machine.
a Foot controller jack
c
Turn on the sewing machine.
d
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
a Sewing speed controller
• The speed set using the sewing speed controller will be is the foot controller’s maximum sewing speed.
e
Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly press down on the foot controller.
Pressing down on the foot controller increases the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the foot controller decreases the sewing speed.
• Slowly press down on the foot controller. Pressing it down hard starts sewing too quickly.
X The machine starts sewing.
f
When the end of the stitching is reached, completely release the foot controller.
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
lowered (in the fabric).
g
When you are finished sewing, raise the needle, and then cut the threads.
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page
53).
Memo
z When the foot controller is plugged in, /
(“Start/Stop” button) cannot be used to
start or stop sewing.
z When sewing is stopped, the needle remains
lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be set so that the needle will stay up when sewing is stopped. For details on setting the machine so that the needle stays up when sewing is stopped, refer to “Changing the needle stop position” (page 59).
CAUTION
1
1
Do not allow thread or dust to accumulate in the foot controller, otherwise a fire or an electric shock may occur.
Do not place objects on the foot controller, otherwise damage to the machine or injuries may occur.
If the machine is not to be used for a long period of time, unplug the foot controller, otherwise a fire or an electric shock may occur.
Slower
Faster
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Securing the stitching
When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at the end of an opening or where seams do not overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching to secure the end of the thread.
a
Lower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the stitching, and then lower the presser foot lever.
b
Press / (“Start/Stop” button) or press
down on the foot controller.
At this time, if / (“Start/Stop” button) is held down, the machine sews at a low speed.
a “Start/Stop” button
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
50).
X The machine starts sewing.
c
After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button).
Keep (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button) held down until you reach the beginning of the stitching.
a “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button
X While (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”
button) is held down, reverse stitches are sewn.
d
After sewing back to the beginning of the stitching, release (“Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button).
X The machine stops sewing.
e
Press / (“Start/Stop” button), or press
down on the foot controller.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction
f
When the end of the stitching is reached, press
(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button).
Keep (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button) held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are sewn.
X While (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”
button) is held down, reverse stitches are sewn.
1
1
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g
After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn, release (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button).
X The machine stops sewing.
h
Press / (“Start/Stop” button), or press
down on the foot controller.
At this time, if
/
(“Start/Stop” button) is
held down, the machine sews at a slow speed.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction.
i
After sewing to the end of the stitching, the sewing machine stops.
Press /
(“Start/Stop” button) or release
foot controller.
a Beginning of stitching b End of stitching
Sewing reinforcement stitches
When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag stitches that are secured with reverse stitching, pressing (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.
a Reverse stitching b Reinforcement stitching
Memo
z Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement
stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 132).
Cutting the thread
When you have finished sewing, cut the threads. The threads can be cut in either of two ways.
Using (“Thread Cutter” button)
a
When you wish to finish the stitching, press
(“Thread Cutter” button) once.
a “Thread Cutter” button
X The threads are cut and the needle is raised.
b
Raise the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
CAUTION
Note
z Do not press (“Thread Cutter” button) if
there is no fabric under the presser foot or while the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to the machine may occur.
Memo
z The machine can be set so that the threads
will be cut when sewing is finished. For details on setting the machine so that the threads are cut automatically, refer to “Automatically cutting the thread” (page 61).
1
2
5 6
4
3
1
2
//
/
/
1
2
Do not press (“Thread Cutter” button) after the threads have already been cut, otherwise the needle may break, the threads may become tangled or damage to the machine may occur.
1
a
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54
Using the manual thread cutter
When sewing with thread thicker than #30, nylon or metallic threads, or other special threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine to cut the threads.
a
When you wish to finish the stitching and the sewing machine is stopped, press (“Needle Position” button) once to raise the needle.
a “Needle Position” button
X The needle is raised.
b
Raise the presser foot lever.
a Presser foot lever
c
Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine, and then pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
a Thread cutter
1
a
1
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Adjusting the Thread Tension 55
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Adjusting the Thread Tension
The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they are equal.
Thread tension
You may need to change the thread tension, depending on the fabric and thread being used.
Correct thread tension
The upper thread and the bobbin thread should cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper thread should be visible from the right side of the fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be visible from the wrong side of the fabric.
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread
Upper thread is too tight
If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread e The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of
the fabric.
Upper thread is too loose
If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread e The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of
the fabric.
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
4
5
5
1
2
3
4
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56
Changing the tension of the upper thread
The tension of the upper thread can be changed using thread tension keys.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
X The LCD comes on.
b
Select a stitch.
X A screen containing settings for the selected
stitch appears.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 70).
• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the standard settings (highlighted) appear.
c
To increase the thread tension, press
(Thread tension key). To decrease the thread
tension, press (Thread tension key).
X The tension of the upper thread is changed.
• If the setting is changed, the highlighting on the setting is erased.
• Now you can begin sewing. Sew trial stitches to check the thread tension, and then change the setting if necessary.
Memo
z To reset the thread tension to its standard
setting, select the same stitch again or change the setting to the highlighted value.
z Press (Reset key) to return the stitch
width, stitch length, and upper thread tension to their default settings.
z The settings can be saved so that they will
always be specified each time the utility stitch is selected. For details, refer to “Saving stitch settings” (page 62).
Note
z If the upper thread is not threaded correctly
or the bobbin is not installed correctly, it may not be possible to set the correct thread tension. If the correct thread tension cannot be achieved, rethread the upper thread and insert the bobbin correctly.
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Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length 57
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Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length
The zigzag width (pattern width) and stitch length of utility stitches can be adjusted. Normally, when a stitch is selected, the appropriate width and length are automatically selected. For details on the range of values within which the width and length can be set, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 132).
Adjusting the stitch width
The stitch width (zigzag width) can be adjusted to make the stitch wider or narrower.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
X The LCD comes on.
b
Select a stitch.
X A screen containing settings for the selected
stitch appears.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 70).
• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the standard settings (highlighted) appear.
c
To make the stitch width narrower, press
(Stitch width key). To make the stitch width
wider, press (Stitch width key).
X The stitch width is changed.
• If the setting is changed, the highlighted value is erased.
Memo
z To reset the stitch width to its standard
setting, select the same stitch again or change the setting to the highlighted value.
z Press (Reset key) to return the stitch
width, stitch length, and upper thread tension to their default settings.
z If the straight stitch (left needle position or
triple stretch stitch) was selected, changing the stitch width changes the needle position. Increasing the width moves the needle to the right; reducing the width moves the needle to the left.
z The settings can be saved so that they will
always be specified each time the utility stitch is selected. For details, refer to “Saving stitch settings” (page 62).
z The sewing machine can be set so that the
stitch width can easily be changed with the sewing speed controller. For details, refer to “Satin stitching using the sewing speed controller” (page 104).
z indicates that the setting cannot be
adjusted.
CAUTION
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
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58
Adjusting the stitch length
The stitch length can be adjusted to make the stitch longer or shorter.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
X The LCD comes on.
b
Select a stitch.
X A screen containing settings for the selected
stitch appears.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 70).
• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the standard settings (highlighted) appear.
c
To make the stitch length shorter, press
(Stitch length key). To make the stitch length
longer, press (Stitch length key).
X The stitch length is changed.
• If the setting is changed, the highlighted value is erased.
Memo
z To reset the stitch length to its standard
setting, select the same stitch again or change the setting to the highlighted value.
z Press (Reset key) to return the stitch
width, stitch length, and upper thread tension to their default settings.
z The settings can be saved so that they will
always be specified each time the utility stitch is selected. For details, refer to “Saving stitch settings” (page 62).
z indicates that the setting cannot be
adjusted.
CAUTION
If the stitches are bunched together, increase the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the stitches bunched together may result in the needle bending or breaking.
+
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Useful Functions 59
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Useful Functions
Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below.
Changing the needle stop position
When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to leave the needle lowered in the fabric when sewing is stopped. However, the machine can be set to instead leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
X The LCD comes on.
b
Press (Needle stop position key).
X (Needle stop position key) lights up,
and the machine is now set to stop with the needle in the raised position.
• To return the machine to the setting where
the needle is stopped in the lowered position,
press (Needle stop position key) until the
key is no longer lit.
• Even after the sewing machine is turned off, the needle stop position setting is not cancelled.
Automatically sewing reverse/ reinforcement stitches
The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching.Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 132).
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
X The LCD comes on.
b
Select a stitch.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 70).
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60
c
Press (Automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitch key).
This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn.
X (Automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitch key) lights up, and the sewing machine
is set for automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching.
• To turn automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching off, press (Automatic reverse/
reinforcement stitch key) until the key is no
longer lit.
• When the sewing machine is turned off, the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching setting is cancelled.
d
Position the fabric under the presser foot, and
then press / (“Start/Stop” button)
once.
a “Start/Stop” button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the machine starts sewing.
e
After reaching the end of the stitching, press
(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button)
once.
This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn.
a “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the sewing machine stops.
Memo
z Reverse/reinforcement stitches WILL NOT
be sewn until (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button) is pressed. / (“Start/ Stop” button) may be pressed to stop stitching when needed such as for pivoting corners.
1
1
/
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Useful Functions 61
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Automatically cutting the thread
The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut the threads at the end of the stitching. This is called “programmed thread-cutting”. If programmed thread­cutting is set, automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching is also set. This setting is convenient if a stitch for sewing buttonholes or bar tacks is selected.
a
Turn on the sewing machine.
X The LCD comes on.
b
Select a stitch.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 70).
c
Press (Automatic thread cutting key).
X (Automatic thread cutting key) and
(Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch
key) light up, and the sewing machine is set
for programmed thread-cutting and
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching.
• To turn off programmed thread-cutting, press
(Automatic thread cutting key) until the
key is no longer lit.
• When the sewing machine is turned off, the programmed thread-cutting setting is cancelled.
d
Position the fabric under the presser foot, and then press / (“Start/Stop” button) once.
a “Start/Stop” button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the machine starts sewing.
e
After reaching the end of the stitching, press
(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button)
once.
This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn.
a “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the sewing machine stops and cuts the thread.
Memo
z Reverse/reinforcement stitches WILL NOT
be sewn and the thread will not automatically be cut until (“Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button) is pressed.
/ (“Start/Stop” button) may be pressed to stop stitching when needed such as for pivoting corners.
1
1
/
The thread is cut here.
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62
Saving stitch sett ings
Adjusted thread tension and stitch width and length settings can be saved so that they will be specified each time the stitch is selected. The various settings can be saved for each utility stitch.
a
Select the stitch, and then adjust the thread tension and stitch width and length.
To adjust the thread tension, press or
(Thread tension keys). To adjust the stitch
width, press or (Stitch width keys). To
adjust the stitch length, press or (Stitch
length keys).
a Thread tension keys b Stitch width keys c Stitch length keys
a Upper thread tension b Stitch width (mm) c Stitch length (mm)
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 70).
• For details on changing the thread tension, refer to “Changing the tension of the upper thread” (page 56).
X The thread tension and stitch width and
length are changed.
b
Press (Manual memory key).
X “Saving...” appears while the settings for the
thread tension, stitch width and stitch length are being saved.
X After the settings for the thread tension,
stitch width and stitch length are saved, the initial stitch screen appears again.
• The next time that the stitch is selected, the saved settings are the first ones that are displayed.
• To clear the saved settings and return the thread tension and stitch width and length to their default settings, press (Reset key). To use the default settings the next time that the stitch is selected, press (Manual memory key) to save the settings.
1
2
3
123
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Useful Functions 63
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Hands-free raising and lowering of the presser foot
Using the knee lifter, you can raise and lower the presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free to handle the fabric.
Installing the knee lifter
a
Turn off the sewing machine.
b
Insert the knee lifter into its jack on the front of the sewing machine in the lower-right corner.
Align the tabs on the knee lifter with the notches in the jack, and then insert the knee lifter as far as possible.
a Tabs b Notches
Note
z If the knee lifter is not fully inserted into its
jack, it may fall out while the sewing machine is operating.
Using the knee lifter
a
Stop the sewing machine.
• Do not use the knee lifter while the sewing machine is operating.
b
With your knee, press the knee lifter to the right.
Keep the knee lifter pressed to the right.
X The presser foot is raised.
c
Release the knee lifter.
X The presser foot is lowered.
CAUTION
1
2
While sewing, keep your knee away from the knee lifter. If the knee lifter is pressed while the sewing machine is operating, the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
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64
Useful Sewing Tips
Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project.
Trial sewing
After you have set up the machine with the thread and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be achieved. For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn, perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project.
Changing the sewing direction
a
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the sewing machine.
Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle remained up when the machine stopped sewing, press (“Needle Position” button) to lower the needle.
b
Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the fabric.
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.
c
Lower the presser foot lever and continue sewing.
Sewing curves
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve. For details on sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to “Sewing an even seam allowance” (page 66).
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch.
Page 67
Useful Sewing Tips 65
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Sewing thick fabrics
If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position.
If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed at the beginning of stitching
Zigzag foot “J” is equipped with a feature that keeps the presser foot level.
a Sewing direction
a
When you encounter a seam that is too thick to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot lever.
b
Press the black button (presser foot holding pin) on the left side of zigzag foot “J”. Keep the button held in and lower the presser foot.
a Presser foot holding pin
Note
z The presser foot needs to be in a level
position before pressing the black button (presser foot holding pin) on the left side of zigzag foot “J”.
c
Release the button. The foot will lock in place level with the seam, allowing the fabric to feed.
X Once the trouble spot has been passed, the
foot will return to its normal position.
CAUTION
Sewing thin fabrics
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.
a Stabilizer material or paper
Sewing stretch fabrics
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric.
a Basting
a
1
If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force, the needle may bend or break.
1
1
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66
Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics
When sewing the fabrics that may stick to the presser foot such as leathers or coated fabrics, change the presser foot to the non stick foot.
a Leather
Sewing an even seam allowance
To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.
Aligning the fabric with the presser foot
Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.
a Seam b Presser foot
Aligning the fabric with the stitch guide foot
Sew while keeping the right edge of the fabric aligned with a desired position of markings on the stitch guide foot.
a Seam b Stitch guide foot c Markings
Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking
The markings on the needle plate show the distance from the needle position of a seam sewn with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with a marking in the needle plate. The distance between the markings in the upper scale is 1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).
a Seam b Presser foot c Centimeters d Inches e Needle plate f 16 mm (5/8 inch)
1
1
2
1
2
3
6
4
3
5
2
1
Page 69
3 UTILITY STITCHES
The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.
Selecting Stitching ............................... 68
Selecting stitch types and patterns
....68
Selecting stitching ..........................70
Overcasting Stitches............................ 74
Sewing overcasting stitches
using overcasting foot “G”............. 74
Sewing overcasting stitches
using zigzag foot “J” ...................... 75
Sewing overcasting stitches
using the optional side cutter .........76
Basic Stitching ..................................... 78
Basting ...........................................78
Basic stitching ................................79
Blind Hem Stitching ............................ 80
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing....82
Buttonhole sewing..........................83
Button sewing ................................87
Zipper Insertion................................... 89
Inserting a centered zipper ............ 89
Inserting a side zipper .................... 91
Zipper/piping Insertion ....................... 94
Inserting a centered zipper ............ 94
Inserting a piping ...........................95
Sewing Stretch Fabrics
and Elastic Tape................................... 96
Stretch stitching .............................96
Elastic attaching .............................96
Appliqué, Patchwork
and Quilt Stitching ..............................98
Appliqué stitching ..........................99
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching
....100
Hand quilting stitch...................... 100
Piecing ......................................... 100
Quilting........................................ 102
Free-motion quilting..................... 103
Satin stitching using the sewing
speed controller ........................... 104
Reinforcement Stitching .................... 106
Triple stretch stitching.................. 106
Bar tack stitching..........................106
Darning ........................................108
Eyelet Stitching.................................. 110
Horizontal Stitching ..........................111
Decorative Stitching .......................... 113
Fagoting........................................114
Scallop stitching ...........................115
Smocking......................................115
Shell tuck stitching .......................116
Joining ..........................................117
Heirloom stitching........................117
Sewing the Various Built-In
Decorative Patterns ........................... 120
Sewing beautiful patterns .............120
Sewing patterns ............................120
Combining patterns ......................121
Repeat sewing patterns.................122
Checking the selected pattern ......122
Changing the pattern size.............123
Changing the stitch density ..........124
Changing the pattern length .........125
Shifting patterns ...........................126
Mirror imaging the pattern........... 127
Saving patterns .............................128
Retrieving a pattern......................128
Realigning the pattern ..................129
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68
Selecting Stitching
You can select any of the various types of stitching available.
Selecting stitch types and patterns
A stitch can be selected from the following types available. Stitch patterns can be selected through either direct select (by pressing the key for a specific stitch) or number selection (by entering the number for the stitch pattern). For details on the types of stitches available, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 132).
Direct selection
After pressing (Preset utility stitch/saved
pattern key) to select the stitch mode, press the
numeric key assigned with the desired stitch.
With direct selection, there are two stitch modes:
preset utility stitch mode and saved pattern
mode . When the machine is turned on or
when the (Preset utility stitch/saved pattern
key) is pressed, the machine enters preset utility
stitch mode, indicated by in the lower-left
corner of the screen. To enter saved pattern
mode, indicated by in the lower-left corner of
the screen, press the (Preset utility stitch/
saved pattern key). Each press of (Preset
utility stitch/saved pattern key) switches the mode
between the preset utility stitch mode and
saved pattern mode .
a Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key b Numeric keys
Preset utillity stitch
The most frequently used utility stitches have been assigned to the numeric keys. These stitches can be selected simply by pressing the key.
Saved patterns
Frequently used patterns and combined
patterns can be saved on the machine's
memory and easily retrieved using
(Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key) and
the numeric keys. For details, refer to
“Saving patterns” (page 128).
Number selection
After pressing (Utility stitch key), (Decorative stitch key) or (Character stitch key) to select the stitch mode, use the numeric keys to type in the number for the desired stitch.
a Utility stitch key b Decorative stitch key c Character stitch key d Numeric keys
Utility stitches (No.01-71)
There are 71 utility stitches, including straight stitches, overcasting stitches and buttonhole stitches.
1
2
/
1
2
3 4
/
//
Page 71
Selecting Stitching 69
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3
Decorative stitches
There are two decorative stitch modes: decorative
stitch 1 mode and decorative stitch 2 mode
.
If (Decorative stitch key) is pressed once,
decorative stitch 1 mode is selected. If
(Decorative stitch key) is pressed twice,
decorative stitch 2 mode is selected. Each
press of (Decorative stitch key) switches the
mode between decorative stitch 1 mode and
decorative stitch 2 mode .
Decorative stitches (No.01-40)
There are 40 decorative stitches, including hearts, leaves and flowers.
Satin stitches (No.41-56)
There are 16 satin stitches.
Step patterns (No.57-58)
Satin stitches (No.41-56) can be shifted to the left or right by half the width of the pattern, allowing you to create a step­shaped pattern. Select stitch No. 57 or 58 to specify how the patterns are shifted.For details, refer to “Shifting patterns” (page
126).
Cross-stitches (No.59-68)
There are 10 types of cross-stitches.
Decorative satin stitches (No.69-79)
There are 11 decorative satin stitches.
Utility decorative stitches (No.01–39)
Some utility stitches can be used as decorative stitches. There are 39 of these stitches.
Character stitches
There are three character stitch modes: Gothic
font mode , Script font mode and
outline style mode .
If (Character stitch key) is pressed once,
Gothic font mode is selected. If
(Character stitch key) is pressed twice, Script font
mode is selected. If (Character stitch
key) is pressed three times, outline style mode
is selected. Each press of (Character
stitch key) switches the mode between the Gothic
font mode , Script font mode and
outline style mode .
Gothic font (No.01-97)
There are 97 characters, including letters, symbols and numbers, in the Gothic font.
Script font (No.01-97)
There are 97 characters, including letters, symbols and numbers, in the Script font.
Outline style (No.01-97)
There are 97 characters, including letters, symbols and numbers, in the outline style.
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70
Selecting stitching
Using the operation panel keys, select the desired stitch. Ten of the most often used utility stitches can quickly be selected with the numeric keys. Right after turning the power on, the straight stitch (left needle position) is selected. The machine can also be set to select the straight stitch (center needle position). For details, refer to “Changing the settings” (page 17).
a
Determine the stitch that you wish to use.
• For the numbers of the various stitches, refer to the stitch pattern plate and “Stitch Settings” (page 132).
a Stitch pattern plate
b
Determine which presser foot should be used with the selected stitch.
The presser feet are stored in the accessory compartment.
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 132).
c
Attach the presser foot.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 39).
d
Turn on the sewing machine.
X The straight stitch (left needle position) is
shown selected in the LCD.
e
After selecting the stitch mode, select the stitch pattern.
With direct selection
With direct selection, there are two stitch modes: preset utility stitch mode and saved pattern mode .
a
Press (Preset utility stitch/saved pattern
key) to select the stitch mode.
: Preset utility stitch
The 10 stitch patterns printed on the
numeric keys can be selected directly.
When appears in the lower-left corner
of the screen when the machine is turned
on or when the (Preset utility stitch/
saved pattern key) is pressed.
: Saved patterns
The 10 stitch patterns saved with the
numeric keys can be selected directly.
When appears in the lower-left corner
of the screen when (Preset utility
stitch/saved pattern key) is pressed.
X When a direct selection mode is selected,
(Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key)
lights up.
X After the icon for the selected stitch mode
appears in the center of the screen, a screen
for selecting the stitch appears with the icon
for the stitch mode in the lower-left corner.
However, when the machine is turned on,
appears only in the lower-left corner of
the screen and does not appear in the center
of the screen.
Example: preset utility stitch
1
Page 73
Selecting Stitching 71
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3
b
Press the key assigned with the stitch to select the stitch.
• Continue with step f (on page 72).
With number selection
There are three modes of stitches that can be
selected by number: utility stitch mode ,
decorative stitch mode and character stitch
mode .
In addition, there are two decorative stitch modes
: decorative stitch 1 mode and
decorative stitch 2 mode . There are three
character stitch modes : Gothic font mode
, Script font mode and outline style
mode .
a
Press the stitch mode key for the stitch that you wish to use.
Utility stitches
: 71 utility stitches are available.
Decorative stitches
: 79 stitches, including decorative
stitches, satin stitches, step patterns,
cross stitch and decorative satin
stitches, are available.
When (Decorative stitch key) is
pressed once.
: 39 utility decorative stitches are
available.
When (Decorative stitch key) is
pressed twice.
Character stitches
: Gothic font
97 letter, symbol and numbers are
available.
When (Character stitch key) is
pressed once.
: Script font
97 letter, symbol and numbers are
available.
When (Character stitch key) is
pressed twice.
: Outline style
97 letter, symbol and numbers are
available.
When (Character stitch key) is
pressed three times.
X A pressed key lights up.
X After the icon for the selected stitch mode
appears in the center of the screen, a screen for selecting the stitch appears with the icon for the stitch mode in the lower-left corner.
Example: decorative stitches
Memo
z When pressing a stitch mode key multiple
times, continue pressing the key after the icon for the stitch mode appears in the lower-left corner of the screen.
Page 74
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72
b
Use the numeric keys to type in the two-digit number for the desired stitch.
For stitches 01 through 09, the stitch can also
be selected by using the numeric keys to type in
a one-digit number, then pressing (OK
key).
X After the entered number appears in the
center of the screen, the stitch is selected.
Example
• For the numbers of the various stitches, refer
to the stitch pattern plate and “Stitch Settings”
(page 132).
• If the first number (tens when entering two-
digit numbers, ones when entering one-digit
numbers) was incorrectly entered, press
(Cancel/clear key) to erase the entered
number.
• If an incorrect two-digit number was entered, an error beep is sounded, and the entered number is cleared.
f
If necessary, specify the setting for automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the stitch length, etc.
• For details on sewing with each of the utility stitches, begin on page 74.
Note
z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears in the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again.
Memo
z For details on adjusting the stitch width and
length, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length” (page 57).
To select a different stitch
Check the icon in the lower-left corner of the screen for the current mode.
To select a stitch in the same mode as the
current one
• In the utility stitch mode, simply type in the number for the desired stitch.
• In the decorative stitch mode and character
stitch mode, press (Cancel/clear key) to
cancel the stitch, and then type in the
number for the desired stitch.
• However, if the currently selected stitch was
sewn at least one time, typing in a stitch
number switches to the new stitch, even if
the previous stitch was not canceled.
Memo
z Patterns can be combined by selecting a
different decorative stitch while a stitch is selected. For details, refer to “Saving patterns” (page 128).
To select a stitch in a different mode as the
current one
• After selecting a different mode, type in the number for the desired stitch. (Refer to steps
e on pages 70 through 72.)
When switching from the utility stitch mode to the decorative stitch or character stitch mode or the other way around, all stitches that have been selected are erased so that a new stitch can be selected. In order to prevent stitches from incorrectly being erased, the following confirmation message appears.
The current mode is indicated.
Page 75
Selecting Stitching 73
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
3
• To erase the stitch and select a different one,
press (OK key), and then change the
stitch mode.
• To stop the current stitch from being erased,
press (Cancel/clear key) to return to the
previous screen.
Memo
z After changing stitch settings such as the
stitch length and width or after combining patterns, the stitch pattern can be saved with its current settings. For details, refer to “Saving patterns” (page 128).
Page 76
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
74
Overcasting Stitc h es
Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent fabric from fraying. Fifteen stitches are available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used.
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”
Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot “G”.
a
Attach overcasting foot “G”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 39).
b
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
70).
c
Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.
a Guide
d
Sew with the edge of the fabric against the presser foot guide.
a Needle drop point
CAUTION
Stitch Name
Pattern
Numeric
Key
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Overcasting
stitch
11
Preventing fraying in medium weight and thin fabrics
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
G
12
Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and fabrics that fray easily
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
13
5.0
(3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
G
a
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
1
Page 77
Overcasting Stitches 75
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
3
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”
Seven stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot “J”.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 39).
b
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
70).
c
Sew along the edge of the fabric with the needle dropping off the edge at the right.
a Needle drop point
a Needle drop point
Memo
z For best results when sewing stretch fabrics,
decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For details, refer to “Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot” (page 41).
Stitch Name
Pattern
Numeric
Key
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Zigzag stitch
(center
needle
position)
07
Preventing fraying (center baseline/ reverse stitching)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
J
Zigzag stitch (right needle
position)
08
Preventing fraying (right baseline/ reinforcement stitching)
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
1.4
(1/16)
0.3–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
2-point
zigzag stitch
09
Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and stretch fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
3-point
zigzag stitch
10
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Overcasting
stitch
14
Preventing fraying in stretch fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
15
Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and stretch fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
16
Preventing fraying in stretch fabrics
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
4.0
(3/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
J
a
1
Page 78
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
76
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter
Using the optional side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Five stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.
a
Remove the presser foot.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 39).
b
Lower the presser foot lever, and then manually thread the needle.
• The needle threader cannot be used. If the needle threader is used with the side cutter, the sewing machine may be damaged.
c
Raise the presser foot lever.
d
Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter onto the needle clamp screw.
a Connecting fork b Needle clamp screw
e
Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin is aligned with the notch in the presser foot holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot lever.
a Notch in presser foot holder b Pin
X The side cutter is attached.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Overcasting
stitch
63
Sewing straight stitches while cutting the fabric
0.0 (0)
0.0–2.5
(0–3/32)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
S
64
Sewing zigzag stitches while cutting the fabric
3.5
(1/8)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
65
Preventing fraying in thin and medium weight fabrics while cutting the fabric
3.5
(1/8)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
( 1/16–3/16)
66
Preventing fraying in thick fabrics while cutting the fabric
5.0
(3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
( 1/16–3/16)
67
Preventing fraying in thick fabrics while cutting the fabric
5.0
(3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
( 1/16–3/16)
b
a
b
a
Page 79
Overcasting Stitches 77
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
3
f
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the side cutter is securely attached.
g
Pass the upper thread under the side cutter, and then pull it out toward the rear of the sewing machine.
h
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
70).
CAUTION
i
Make a cut of about 2 cm (3/4 inch) long in the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.
a 2 cm (3/4 inch)
j
Position the fabric in the side cutter.
The cut in the fabric should be positioned over the guide plate of the side cutter.
a Guide plate
• If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the fabric will not be cut.
k
Lower the presser foot lever, and then start sewing.
X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching
is sewn.
• If the stitching is sewn in a straight line, the seam allowance will be about 5 mm (3/16 inch).
a 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Memo
z The side cutter can cut as much as one layer
of 13-oz. denim.
z After using the side cutter, clean it by
removing any lint or dust.
z If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric,
use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to the cutting edge of the cutter.
After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
1
a
1
Page 80
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
78
Basic Stitching
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Five stitches are available for basic stitching.
Basting
Sew basting with a stitch length between 5 mm (3/16 inch) and 30 mm (1-3/16 inches).
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 39).
b
Select stitch
06
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
70).
c
Start sewing.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
50).
a 5-30 mm (3/16-1-3/16 inches)
Stitch Name
Pattern
Numeric
Key
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Basting stitch
06
Temporarily securing
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
20
(3/4)
5-30
(3/16-1-3/16)
J
Straight stitch
(left needle
position)
01
Basic stitching and sewing gathers or pintucks (left baseline/ reverse stitching)
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2-5.0
(1/64–3/16)
02
Basic stitching and sewing gathers or pintucks (left baseline/ reinforcement stitching)
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2-5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Straight stitch
(center
needle
position)
03
Basic stitching and sewing gathers or pintucks (center baseline/reverse stitching)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2-5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Triple stretch
stitch
04
Reinforcing seams and sewing stretch fabrics
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
J
1
Page 81
Basic Stitching 79
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
3
Basic stitching
a
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.
b
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 39).
c
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
70).
d
Lower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.
e
Start sewing.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
50).
• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 52).
f
When sewing is finished, cut the thread.
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page
53).
Changing the needle position
The needle position used as the baseline is different for the straight stitch (left needle position) and the straight stitch (center needle position).
a Straight stitch (left needle position) b Straight stitch (center needle position)
When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left needle position) is set to its standard setting (0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm (1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between 0 and 7.0 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will also change. By changing the stitch width and sewing with the right side of the presser foot aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam allowance can be sewn with a fixed width.
a Stitch width setting b Distance from the needle position to the right
side of the presser foot
c 12.0 mm (1/2 inch) d 10.0 mm (3/8 inch) e 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) f 5.0 mm (3/16 inch)
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width” (page 57).
J
12
0.0 2.0 5.5 7.0
1
6
543
2
Page 82
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
80
Blind Hem Stitching
Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching.
Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.
a
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the hem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric.
a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stitching c Desired edge of hem d 5 mm (3/16 inch)
b
Fold back the fabric along the basting, and then position the fabric with the wrong side facing up.
a Wrong side of fabric b Basting
c
Attach blind hem foot “R”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 39).
d
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
70).
e
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded hem against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.
a Wrong side of fabric b Fold of hem c Guide
Stitch Name
Pattern
Numeric
Key
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Blind hem
stitch
17
Blind hem stitching on medium weight fabrics
00 (0)
3 – 3
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
R
18
Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics
00 (0)
3 – 3
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
3
4
1
2
2
1
R
1
2
3
Page 83
Blind Hem Stitching 81
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
3
f
Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.
a Needle drop point
a Stitch width
If the needle catches too much of the hem fold
The needle is too far to the left. Press (of the Stitch width keys) to decrease the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric
If the needle does not catch the hem fold
The needle is too far to the right. Press (of the Stitch width keys) to increase the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric
• For details on changing the stitch width, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length” (page 57).
g
Sew with the fold of the hem against the presser foot guide.
h
Remove the basting stitching.
a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric
Memo
z For best results when sewing stretch fabrics,
decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For details, refer to “Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot” (page 41).
1
1
+
1 2
1 2
1 2
Page 84
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
82
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Eleven stitches are available for sewing one-step buttonholes and one stitch for sewing on buttons.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Numeric
Key
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Buttonhole
stitch
48
Horizontal buttonholes on thin and medium weight fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.4
(1/64)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
A
49
Horizontal buttonholes on areas that are subject to strain
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.4
(1/64)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
50
Horizontal buttonholes on thick fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.4
(1/64)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
51
Buttonholes with bar tacks on both ends for stabilized fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.4
(1/64)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
52
Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics
6.0
(15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
1.0
(1/16)
0.5–2.0
(1/32–1/16)
53
Buttonholes for stretch fabrics
6.0
(15/64)
3.0–6.0
(1/8–15/64)
1.5
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
54
Bound buttonholes
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–6.0
(0–15/64)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
55
Keyhole buttonholes for thick or plush fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
56
Keyhole buttonholes for medium weight and thick fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
57
Horizontal buttonhole for thick or plush fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Button-
sewing stitch
61
Button sewing
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–4.5
(3/32–3/16)
––M
Page 85
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 83
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
3
Buttonhole sewing
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button). Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
a Reinforcement stitching
The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.
a Button guide plate b Presser foot scale c Pin d Marks on buttonhole foot e 5 mm (3/16 inch)
a
Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position and length of the buttonhole.
a Marks on fabric
b
Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole foot “A”, and then insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole.
1
1
1
1
A
1
2
5
3
4
1
Page 86
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
84
If the button does not fit in the button guide plate
Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
a Presser foot scale b Length of buttonhole (Diameter + thickness of
button)
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.
a 10 mm (3/8 inch) b 15 mm (9/16 inch)
X The size of the buttonhole is set.
c
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 39).
d
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
70).
e
Position the fabric with the front end of the buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.
a Mark on fabric b Red marks on buttonhole foot
Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct size.
a Do not reduce the gap.
f
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as possible.
a Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.
a Buttonhole lever b Bracket
1
3
2
1
2
A
1
2
a
a
2
1
Page 87
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 85
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
3
g
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left hand, and then start sewing.
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.
h
Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever, and then remove the fabric.
i
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original position.
j
Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent the stitching from being cut.
a Pin
k
Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and open the buttonhole.
a Seam ripper
For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut open the buttonhole.
a Eyelet punch
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric.
CAUTION
Changing the density of the stitching
Adjust the stitch length.
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch length” (page 58).
• If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is too thick), decrease the density of the stitching.
1
1
When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting direction, otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips.
1
+
Page 88
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
86
Changing the stitch width
Adjust the stitch width.
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width” (page 57).
Memo
z Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch
length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.
Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread.
a
Hook the gimp thread onto the part of buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration so that it fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it.
b
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 39).
c
Select stitch
52
or
53
.
d
Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the gimp thread.
e
Lower the presser foot lever and the buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.
f
When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp thread to remove any slack.
g
Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it.
h
With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the gimp thread remaining at the top end of the buttonhole.
Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.
+
Page 89
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 87
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
3
Button sewing
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.
a
Measure the distance between the holes in the button to be attached.
b
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to (to the left as seen from the rear of the machine).
a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
X The feed dogs are lowered.
c
Attach button-sewing foot “M”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 39).
d
Select stitch
61
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
70).
• Since the end of the thread will be tied off later, do not set the sewing machine for programmed-thread cutting.
e
Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as the distance between the holes in the button.
f
Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”.
a Button
X The button is held in place.
• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine, and then sew them in the same way.
g
Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to check that the needle correctly goes into the two holes of the button.
If it seems as if the needle will hit the button, remeasure the distance between the holes in the button. Adjust the stitch width to the distance between the button holes.
CAUTION
a
When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the button, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
a
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88
h
Start sewing.
Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so that the speed will be slow).
X The sewing machine automatically stops
after sewing reinforcement stitches.
• If additional strength is needed to secure the button, perform the button-sewing operation twice.
• Do not press (“Thread Cutter” button).
i
Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.
Pull the upper thread at the end of the stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it with the bobbin thread.
j
When you are finished attaching the button, slide the drop feed lever to (to the right as seen from the rear of the machine) to raise the feed dogs.
a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
Memo
z The feed dog position switch is normally set
to the right side (as seen from the rear of machine).
z The feed dogs come up when you start
sewing again.
Attaching a shank to a button
To sew the button with a shank, attach the button with space between it and the fabric, and then wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button securely.
a
Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”, and then pull the shank lever toward you.
a Shank lever
b
After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread with plenty of excess, wind it around the thread between the button and the fabric, and then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning of the stitching.
Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at the end and at the beginning of the stitching on the wrong side of the fabric.
c
Cut off any excess thread.
a
1
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Zipper Insertion 89
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3
Zipper Insertion
A zipper can be sewn in place.
There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side zipper are described below.
Inserting a centered zipper
Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted against each other.
a Right side of fabric b Stitching c End of zipper opening
a
Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening.
With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.
• For details, refer to “Basic stitching” (page
79).
b
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the edge of the fabric.
a Basting stitching b Reverse stitches c Wrong side of fabric d End of zipper opening
c
Press open the seam allowance from the wrong side of the fabric.
a Wrong side of fabric
d
Align the seam with the center of the zipper, and then baste the zipper in place.
a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stitching c Zipper
Stitch Name
Pattern
Numeric
Key
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Straight stitch
(center
needle
position)
03
Attaching zippers Sewing concealed seams and pintucks
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
I
1
2
3
1
2
3
4
1
1
2
3
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90
e
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin of zipper foot “I”.
a Pin on the right side b Needle drop point
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 39).
f
Select stitch
03
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
70).
CAUTION
g
Topstitch around the zipper.
a Stitching b Right side of fabric c Basting stitching d End of zipper opening
CAUTION
h
Remove the basting stitching.
When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
2
1
I
When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
1
2
3
4
Page 93
Zipper Insertion 91
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3
Inserting a side zipper
Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use this type of zipper application for side openings and back openings.
a Stitching b Right side of fabric c End of zipper opening
The following procedure will describe how to stitch on the left side, as shown in the illustration.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening.
With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.
• For details, refer to “Basic stitching” (page
79).
b
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the edge of the fabric.
a Basting stitching b Reverse stitches c Wrong side of fabric d End of zipper opening
c
Press open the seam allowance from the wrong side of the fabric.
a Wrong side of fabric
d
Press the seam allowance so that the right side (the side that will not be stitched) has an extra 3 mm (1/8 inch).
a Wrong side of fabric b 3 mm (1/8 inch)
e
Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), and then baste or pin the zipper in place.
a Zipper teeth b Basting stitching
f
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin of zipper foot “I”.
If the stitching will be sewn on the right side, attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of the zipper foot.
a Pin on the right side b Needle drop point
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 39).
1
2
3
1
2
3
4
1
1
2
2
1
2
1
I
Page 94
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
92
g
Select stitch
03
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
70).
CAUTION
h
Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base of the zipper.
CAUTION
i
When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise the presser foot lever, and then open the zipper and continue sewing.
j
Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric.
a Basting stitching
k
Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin of zipper foot “I”.
If the presser foot holder was attached to the right pin in step
f, change it to the left pin.
a Pin on the left side b Needle drop point
l
Topstitch around the zipper.
Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper opening and align the zipper teeth with the side of the presser foot.
a Right side of fabric b End of zipper opening c Reverse stitches d Beginning of stitching e Basting stitching
CAUTION
When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
1
I
1
2
1
2
3
4
5
Page 95
Zipper Insertion 93
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3
m
When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise the presser foot lever, and then open the zipper and continue sewing.
n
Remove the basting stitching.
Page 96
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
94
Zipper/piping Insertion
A zipper and piping can be sewn in place.
There are many methods for inserting zippers and pipings. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a piping are described below, with the adjustable zipper/piping foot.
Inserting a centered zipper
a
Refer to step ad of “Inserting a centered zipper” (page 89).
b
Remove the presser foot and presser foot holder (page 41) to attach the screw-on adjustable zipper/piping foot.
Note
z Use a screw driver to securely tighten the
screw that holds the presser foot. If the screw is loose, the needle may break and cause injures.
c
Select stitch
01
.
d
Loosen the positioning screw on the back of the presser foot.
a Positioning screw
e
Slide the presser foot over either the left or right feed dog.
f
Change the needle position so that the needle does not touch the presser foot.
For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width” (page 57).
a Needle drop point
CAUTION
Stitch Name
Pattern
Numeric
Key
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Straight stitch
(left needle
position)
01
Attaching zippers Sewing concealed seams and piping
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
1
After adjusting the needle position, slowly turn the handwheel toward you and check the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
Left sewing position
Right sewing position
1
Page 97
Zipper/piping Insertion 95
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3
g
Securely tighten the positioning screw with a screwdriver.
a Positioning screw
h
Topstitch around the zipper.
a Stitching b Right side of fabric c Basting stitching d End of zipper opening
CAUTION
i
Remove the basting stitching.
Inserting a piping
a
Place the piping between two fabric pieces turned inside out, as shown below.
a Fabric b Piping c Fabric
b
Refer to the steps of attaching the adjustable zipper/piping foot (page 94).
c
Sew along the piping.
d
After sewing, turn fabric pieces.
When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
1
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
Page 98
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96
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape
Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.
Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.
Stretch stitching
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 39).
b
Select stitch
05
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
70).
c
Sew the fabric without stretching it.
Elastic attachi ng
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape. therefore, it is necessary that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
a
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the fabric.
Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric.
a Elastic tape b Pin
Stitch Name
Pattern
Numeric
Key
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Stretch stitch
05
Stretch fabrics
1.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
J
2-point
zigzag stitch
09
Attaching elastic
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
3-point
zigzag stitch
10
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Elastic-
attaching
stitch
34
Attaching elastic to stretch fabrics
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
J
1
2
Page 99
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 97
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3
b
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 39).
c
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
70).
d
Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while stretching the tape so that it is the same length as the fabric.
While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand.
CAUTION
When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
J
Page 100
UTILITY STITCHES — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
98
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Numeric
Key
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Zigzag stitch
07
Attaching appliqués (center baseline/ reverse stitching)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
J
24
Appliqué quilting, free-motion quilting, satin stitching
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Appliqué
stitch
19
Attaching appliqués
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
25
Attaching appliqués and binding
1.5
(1/16)
0.5–5.0
(1/32–3/16)
1.8
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Piecing
straight stitch
21
Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from the right edge of the presser foot)
5.5
(7/32)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
22
Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from the left edge of the presser foot)
1.5
(1/16)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Joining stitch
28
Patchwork stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
29
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
30
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Mock hand
quilting stitch
23
Straight stitch quilting that looks hand quilting
0.0 (0)
0.0–7.0 (0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Quilting
stippling
26
Stippling
7.0
(1/4)
1.0–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
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