Baby Lock Soprano, Lyric, Katherine, BLMSP, BL210A Instruction And Reference Manual

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INTRODUCTION
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Thank you for purchasing this machine. Before using this machine, carefully read the “IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS”, and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference.
DANGER - To reduce the risk of electrical shock
1Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning, making any user
servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the machine unattended.
WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electrical shock, or injury to
persons.
2Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when making any adjustments mentioned in the instruction
manual.
• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.
• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
• Always unplug your machine if there is a power failure.
3Electrical Hazards:
• This machine should be connected to an AC power source within the range indicated on the rating label. Do not connect it to a DC power source or converter. If you are not sure what kind of power source you have, contact a qualified electrician.
• This machine is approved for use in the country of purchase only.
4Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, has been dropped or
damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest authorized Baby Lock retailer for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
• While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat, discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine immediately and unplug the power cord.
• When transporting the machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could cause injuries.
• When lifting the machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements, which may cause a personal injury.
INTRODUCTION
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
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5Always keep your work area clear:
• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
• Do not store objects on the foot controller.
• Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.
• Never drop or insert foreign objects in any opening.
• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
• Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine, power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.
• Do not place this machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table, otherwise the machine may fall, resulting in injuries.
6Special care is required when sewing:
• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.
• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
• Switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments in the needle area.
• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.
• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when free motion stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.
7This machine is not a toy:
• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.
• The plastic bag that this machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of children or disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of suffocation.
• Do not use outdoors.
8For a longer service life:
• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
• Always consult the Instruction and Reference Guide when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
9For repair or adjustment:
• If the light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by an authorized Baby Lock retailer.
• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the Instruction and Reference Guide to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Baby Lock retailer.
Use this machine only for its intended use as described in the manual.
Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.
For additional product information, visit our website at www.babylock.com
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
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SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
This machine is intended for household use.
FOR USERS IN COUNTRIES EXCEPT EUROPEAN COUNTRIES
This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.
FOR USERS IN EUROPEAN COUNTRIES
This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and persons with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge if they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards involved. Children shall not play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by children without supervision.
FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA
AND CYPRUS ONLY
IMPORTANT
• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark,
rating as marked on plug.
• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you should contact your
authorized Baby Lock retailer to obtain the correct lead.
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ABOUT THIS MANUAL
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This manual was written for several machine models. The screen displays may differ from the ones displayed on your machine. Refer to the Quick Reference Guide for details on accessories, settings screen and pre-programmed stitch patterns. First, read “Functions available with each model” and “Using the utility stitch tables in the “Sewing” section” on page B-6.
ABOUT THIS MANUAL
WHAT YOU CAN DO WITH THIS MACHINE
B Basic operations
After purchasing your machine, be sure to read this section first. This section provides details on the initial setup procedures as well as descriptions of this machine’s more useful functions.
Chapter 1 GETTING READY
Page B-2
To learn the operation of the principal parts and the screens
Chapter 2 STARTING TO SEW
Page B-31
To learn how to prepare for sewing and basic sewing operations
S Sewing
This section describes procedures for using the various utility stitches as well as other functions. It provides details on basic machine sewing in addition to the more expressive features of the machine, such as sewing tubular pieces and buttonholes.
Chapter 1 SEWING ATTRACTIVE FINISHES
Page S-2
Tips for sewing attractive finishes and various fabrics
Chapter 2 UTILITY STITCHES
Page S-6
Sew pre-programmed frequently used stitches
D Decorative sewing
This section provides instructions on sewing character stitches and decorative stitches as well as on adjusting and editing them.
Chapter 1 CHARACTER / DECORATIVE STITCHES
Page D-2
The variety of stitches widen your creativity
A Appendix
This section provides important information for operating this machine.
Chapter 1 MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING
Page A-2
The various maintenance and troubleshooting procedures are described.
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CONTENTS
v
INTRODUCTION.................................................. i
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ................. i
ABOUT THIS MANUAL ...................................... iv
WHAT YOU CAN DO WITH THIS MACHINE.... iv
B Basic operations
Chapter 1 GETTING READY 2
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ...... 2
Machine ................................................................................ 2
Needle and presser foot section .................................................. 3
Operation buttons.................................................................. 4
Operation panel and operation keys ...................................... 4
Using the flat bed attachment ................................................ 5
Included accessories .............................................................. 6
Functions available with each model ..................................... 6
Using the utility stitch tables in the “Sewing” section ............. 6
Turning the Machine On/Off................................ 7
Turning on the machine......................................................... 8
Turning off the machine......................................................... 8
Select machine setting for the first time .................................. 8
LCD ...................................................................... 9
Viewing the LCD ................................................................... 9
Settings screen ..................................................................... 10
Choosing the display language ............................................. 12
Adjusting input sensitivity for operation keys ....................... 12
Winding/Installing the Bobbin............................ 13
Winding the bobbin ............................................................. 13
Installing the bobbin ............................................................ 16
Upper Threading ................................................ 19
Threading the upper thread.................................................. 19
Threading the needle ........................................................... 21
Threading the needle manually (without using the needle
threader) .............................................................................. 22
Pulling up the bobbin thread................................................ 22
Using the twin needle .......................................................... 23
Replacing the Needle ......................................... 26
Fabric/thread/needle combinations ...................................... 26
Checking the needle ............................................................ 27
Replacing the needle ........................................................... 27
Replacing the Presser Foot ................................. 29
Replacing the presser foot.................................................... 29
Removing and attaching the presser foot holder................... 30
Chapter 2 STARTING TO SEW 31
Sewing................................................................ 31
Stitch selection methods ...................................................... 31
Selecting a stitch pattern ...................................................... 32
Sewing a stitch..................................................................... 33
Sewing reinforcement stitches.............................................. 35
Automatic reinforcement stitching ....................................... 35
Setting the Stitch ................................................ 37
Setting the stitch width......................................................... 37
Setting the stitch length ........................................................ 37
Setting the thread tension..................................................... 38
Saving stitch settings ............................................................ 39
Useful Functions................................................. 40
Automatically cutting the thread .......................................... 40
Mirroring stitches................................................................. 40
Adjusting the presser foot pressure ....................................... 41
Automatic Fabric Sensor System (Automatic presser foot
pressure) .............................................................................. 41
Pivoting ............................................................................... 41
Sewing with free motion mode ............................................ 42
Hands-free raising and lifting of the presser foot................... 43
Stitch Setting Chart ............................................ 44
S Sewing
Chapter 1 SEWING ATTRACTIVE
FINISHES 2
Sewing Tips .......................................................... 2
Trial sewing............................................................................ 2
Changing the sewing direction
.................................................. 2
Sewing curves ........................................................................ 2
Sewing cylindrical pieces....................................................... 2
Sewing an even seam allowance ............................................ 3
Sewing Various Fabrics ........................................ 4
Sewing thick fabrics ............................................................... 4
Sewing thin fabrics................................................................. 4
Sewing stretch fabrics............................................................. 5
Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics .............................................. 5
Sewing hook-and-loop fastener tape....................................... 5
Chapter 2 UTILITY STITCHES 6
Basic Stitching...................................................... 6
Basting ................................................................................... 6
Basic stitching ........................................................................ 6
Blind Hem Stitching ............................................. 8
Overcasting Stitches .......................................... 11
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” ........ 11
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”.................. 12
Sewing overcasting stitches using the side cutter
(sold separately with some models) ...................................... 12
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing .................. 14
Buttonhole sewing................................................................ 14
Button sewing ...................................................................... 17
Zipper Insertion ................................................. 19
Inserting a centered zipper ................................................... 19
Inserting a side zipper .......................................................... 20
Zipper/piping Insertion ...................................... 23
Inserting a centered zipper ................................................... 23
Inserting a piping.................................................................. 24
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape............. 25
Stretch stitching.................................................................... 25
Elastic attaching ................................................................... 25
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching........... 26
Appliqué stitching ................................................................ 26
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching........................................... 27
Piecing................................................................................. 27
Quilting................................................................................ 29
Free motion quilting............................................................. 30
Satin stitching using the sewing speed controller .................. 34
Reinforcement Stitching..................................... 35
Triple stretch stitching .......................................................... 35
Bar tack stitching.................................................................. 35
Darning................................................................................ 36
Eyelet Stitching .................................................. 38
Attaching Patches or Emblems to Shirt Sleeves
.... 39
Decorative Stitching .......................................... 41
Fagoting ............................................................................... 41
Scallop stitching................................................................... 42
Smocking ............................................................................. 42
Shell tuck stitching ............................................................... 43
Joining.................................................................................. 43
Heirloom stitching................................................................ 44
CONTENTS
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CONTENTS
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D Decorative sewing
Chapter 1 CHARACTER / DECORATIVE
STITCHES 2
Sewing the Various Built-in Decorative Patterns
.... 2
Selecting stitch patterns .......................................................... 2
Deleting a pattern................................................................... 3
Sewing attractive finishes ....................................................... 3
Basic sewing .......................................................................... 4
Combining patterns................................................................ 5
Repeating combined patterns ................................................. 5
Checking the selected pattern................................................. 6
Changing the pattern size....................................................... 6
Changing the stitch density..................................................... 6
Changing the pattern length ................................................... 7
Changing character spacing ................................................... 7
Creating step stitch patterns.................................................... 7
Mirroring a pattern image....................................................... 8
Returning to the beginning of the pattern................................ 9
Saving a pattern...................................................................... 9
Retrieving a pattern .............................................................. 10
Realigning the pattern .......................................................... 10
A Appendix
Chapter 1 MAINTENANCE AND
TROUBLESHOOTING 2
Care and Maintenance.......................................... 2
Restrictions on oiling.............................................................. 2
Precautions on storing the machine........................................ 2
Cleaning the LCD screen........................................................ 2
Cleaning the machine surface ................................................ 2
Cleaning the race ................................................................... 2
Troubleshooting.................................................... 4
Frequent troubleshooting topics ............................................. 4
Upper thread tightened up ..................................................... 4
Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric .................................. 5
Incorrect thread tension.......................................................... 6
Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed ........ 7
When the thread became tangled under the bobbin winder
seat ...................................................................................... 10
List of symptoms................................................................... 12
Error messages...................................................................... 17
Operation beep.................................................................... 20
Nothing appears in the LCD................................................. 20
Specifications ..................................................... 20
Index .................................................................. 21
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Basic
operations
This section provides details on the initial setup procedures as well as descriptions of this machine’s more useful functions.
Page number starts with “B” in this section.
Chapter1 GETTING READY....................................................B-2
Chapter2 STARTING TO SEW ..............................................B-31
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
B-2
The names of the various parts of the machine and their functions are described below. Before using the machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts and their locations.
Machine
Front view
1 Top cover
Open the top cover to place the spool of thread on the spool pin.
2 Thread guide plate
Pass the thread around the thread guide plate when threading the upper thread.
3 Bobbin winding thread guide and pretension disk
Pass the thread under this thread guide and around the pretension disk when winding the bobbin thread.
4 Spool cap
Use the spool cap to hold the spool of thread in place.
5 Spool pin
Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.
6 Bobbin winder
Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.
7 LCD (liquid crystal display)
Settings for the selected stitch and error messages appear in the LCD. (page B-9)
8 Operation panel
From the operation panel, stitch settings can be selected and edited, and operations for using the machine can be selected (page B-4).
9 Knee lifter mounting slot
Insert the knee lifter into the knee lifter mounting slot.
0 Knee lifter
Use the knee lifter to raise and lower the presser foot. (page B-43)
A Operation buttons and sewing speed controller
Use these buttons and the slide to operate the machine. (page B-4)
B Flat bed attachment
Insert the presser foot accessory tray into the accessory compartment of the flat bed attachment. Remove the flat bed attachment when sewing cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs.
C Thread cutter
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
D Needle threader lever
Use the needle threader lever to thread the needle.
E Thread tension dial
(Equipped on some models. Refer to page B-6)
Use the dial to adjust the upper thread tension. (page B-38)
Right-side/rear view
1 Handwheel
Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to raise and lower the needle to sew one stitch.
2 Handle
Carry the machine by its handle when transporting.
3 Presser foot lever
Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot.
4 Feed dog position switch
Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs.
5 Main power switch
Use the main power switch to turn the machine on and off.
6 Power supply jack
Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the power supply jack.
7 Foot controller
Depress the foot controller to control the speed of the machine. (page B-34)
8 Air vent
The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to circulate. Do not cover the air vent while the machine is being used.
9 Foot controller jack
Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable into the foot controller jack.
Chapter 1
GETTING READY
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
GETTING READY
Basic operations B-3
B
Needle and presser foot section
1 Needle bar thread guide
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide.
2 Needle plate
The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing straight seams.
3 Needle plate cover
Remove the needle plate cover to clean the bobbin case and race.
4 Bobbin cover/bobbin case
Remove the bobbin cover, and then insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.
5 Feed dogs
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
6 Presser foot
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitch.
7 Presser foot holder
The presser foot is attached onto the presser foot holder.
8 Presser foot holder screw
Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser foot in place. (page B-30)
9 Buttonhole lever
Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks or when darning.
Measurements on the needle plate, bobbin cover (with mark) and needle plate cover
The measurements on the bobbin cover are references for patterns with a middle (center) needle position. The measurements on the needle plate and the needle plate cover are references for stitches with a left needle position.
1 For stitches with a middle (center) needle position 2 For stitches with a left needle position 3 Left needle position on the needle plate <inch> 4 Left needle position on the needle plate <cm> 5 Middle (center) needle position on the bobbin cover
(with mark) <inch>
6 Left needle position on the needle plate cover <inch>
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
B-4
Operation buttons
1 “Start/Stop” button
Press the “Start/Stop” button to start or stop sewing. The machine stitches at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is pressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details, refer to “STARTING TO SEW” on page B-31. The button changes color according to the machine’s operation mode.
2 Reverse stitch button
For straight, zigzag, and elastic zigzag stitch patterns that use reverse stitches, the machine will sew reverse stitches at low speed only while holding down the Reverse stitch button. The stitches are sewn in the opposite position. For other stitches, use this button to sew reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of sewing. Press and hold this button, and the machine sews 3 stitches in the same spot and stops automatically. (page B-35)
3 Reinforcement stitch button
Use this button to sew a single stitch repeatedly and tie-off. For character/decorative stitches, press this button to end with a full stitch instead of at a mid-point. The LED light beside this button lights up while the machine is sewing a full motif, and automatically turns off when the sewing is stopped. (page B-
35)
4 Needle position button
Press the needle position button to raise or lower the needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.
5 Thread cutter button
Press the thread cutter button after sewing is stopped to cut
both the upper and the bobbin threads. For details, refer to
step
j under “Sewing a stitch” section on page B-33.
6 Presser foot lifter button
(Equipped on some models. Refer to page B-6)
Press this button to lower the presser foot and apply pressure to the fabric. Press this button again to raise the presser foot.
7 Sewing speed controller
Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed.
Operation panel and operation keys
The keys with * are lit while they are ON.
1 LCD (liquid crystal display)
Settings for the selected stitch and error messages for incorrect operations appear in the LCD. For details, refer to “LCD” on page B-9
2 Pivot key *
(Equipped on some models. Refer to page B-6)
Press to activate pivot function.
3 Automatic reverse/reinforcement key *
Press to use the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching function.
4 Automatic thread cutting key *
Press to select the automatic thread cutting function.
5 Stitch length keys/Item selection keys
Press to adjust the stitch length or to select the next/previous items in the settings screen.
6 Thread tension keys (Equipped on some models.
Refer to page B-6)/Value selection keys
Press to adjust the thread tension or to change the value of the selected item in the settings screen.
7 Settings key
Press to select sewing settings or other settings, or to move to next pages in the settings screen.
8 Manual memory key
Press to save the adjusted stitch width and length settings. For models equipped with the thread tension keys (Refer to page B-6.), the thread tension setting is also saved.
9 Mirror image key
Press to create a mirror image of the selected stitch pattern.
0 Single/repeat sewing key
Press to choose single pattern or continuous patterns.
A Back to beginning key
Press this key to return to the beginning of the pattern.
B Presser foot/Needle exchange key
Press this key before changing the needle, the presser foot, etc. This key locks all key and button functions to prevent operation of the machine.
C Memory key
Press to save stitch pattern combinations to machine memory.
D Reset key
Press to reset the selected stitch to its original settings.
Green: The machine is ready to sew or is sewing.
Red: The machine can not sew.
Orange: The machine is winding the bobbin thread, or
the bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right side.
CAUTION
• Do not press (Thread cutter button) after the threads have already been cut, otherwise the needle may break, the threads may become tangled or damage to the machine may occur.
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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
GETTING READY
Basic operations B-5
B
E OK key
Press to apply the selection or perform the operation.
F Numeric keys
Use these keys to quickly select one of the ten most often used stitches. When selecting other stitches, use these keys to type in the number of the desired stitch.
G Back key
Press this key to cancel the operation and return to the previous screen. In addition, pressing this key removes the last pattern added when combining characters or decorative stitches.
H Character stitch key *
Press to select a character stitch.
I Decorative stitch key *
Press to select a decorative stitch.
J Utility stitch key *
Press to select a utility stitch.
K Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key *
Press to select the utility stitch assigned to a numeric key or to retrieve a pattern that has been saved.
L Stitch width keys/Settings screen page selection
keys
Press to adjust the stitch width or to move to previous/next pages in the settings screen.
Using the flat bed attachment
Pull the top of the flat bed attachment to open the accessory compartments.
A presser foot accessory tray is stored in the accessory compartment of the flat bed attachment.
1 Storage space of the flat bed attachment 2 Presser foot accessory tray
Note
• The operation keys of this machine are capacitive touch sensors. Operate the keys by directly touching them with your finger. The response of the keys varies according to the user. The pressure exerted on the keys does not affect the response of the keys.
• Since the operation keys react differently depending on the user, adjust the setting for the input sensitivity. (page B-12)
• When using an electrostatic touch pen, make sure that its point is 8 mm or more. Do not use a touch pen with a thin point or a unique shape.
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Page 14
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
B-6
Included accessories
Refer to the Quick Reference Guide for the included accessories and their part codes for your machine model.
Functions available with each model
Specifications differ depending on the machine model. For the functions available with your sewing machine model, refer to the table below.
*1
Pattern size can be changed for decorative stitches, satin stitches and all fonts of character stitches.
*2
Pattern size can be changed for character stitches other than handwriting font.
Using the utility stitch tables in the “Sewing” section
The utility stitch numbers differ depending on the model of your machine.
BLMAV: Aventura
BLMSP: Soprano
BLMLR: Lyric
BL210A: Katherine
Note
• (For U.S.A. only) Foot controller: Model T This foot controller can be used on machine models: BLMSP, BLMLR and BL210A.
BLMSP BLMLR BL210A Page
Automatic fabric
sensor system
(setting)
9
N/A N/A B-41
Fine adjustment
horizontal (setting)
99
N/A D-10
Free motion foot
height (setting)
9
N/A N/A B-42
Free motion mode
(setting)
9
N/A N/A B-42
Pivoting
9
N/A N/A B-41
Presser foot height
(setting)
9
N/A N/A B-11
Presser foot lifter
button
9
N/A N/A B-4
Size selection
(setting)
999
D-6
Step stitch pattern
99
N/A D-7
Thread tension dial N/A N/A
9
B-38
Thread tension key
99
N/A B-38
*1*1*2
Stitch name Stitch
BLMAV
Presser foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Stitch number
Basting stitch 1-08 08 07
J
Straight stitch (Left)
1-01
01
* 01*
1-02
02
* 02*
Straight stitch (Middle) 1-03
03
* 03*
Triple stretch stitch 1-05
05
* 05*
Page 15
Turning the Machine On/Off
GETTING READY
Basic operations B-7
B
Turning the Machine On/Off
WARNING
• Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire,
electric shock, or damage to the machine.
• Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and the power
cord receptacle on the machine. Otherwise, a fire or electric shock may result.
• Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
• Turn the main power to OFF and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
When you are away from the machine After using the machine When the power fails during use When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection During electrical storms
CAUTION
• Use only the power cord included with this machine.
• Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with any other appliances plugged into them. Fire or
electric shock may result.
• Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
• When unplugging the machine, always turn the main power to OFF first. Always grasp the plug to remove
it from the electrical outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.
• Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled.
Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord, or cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized Baby Lock retailer for repairs before continuing use.
• Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise, a fire may
result.
• When leaving the machine unattended, either the main switch of the machine should be turned to OFF or
the plug must be removed from the electrical outlet.
• When servicing the machine or when removing covers, the machine must be unplugged.
• For USA only
This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized electrical outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the electrical outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper electrical outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
Page 16
Turning the Machine On/Off
B-8
Turning on the machine
a
Make sure that the machine is turned off (the main power switch is set to “ ”), and then plug the power cord into the power supply jack on the right side of the machine.
b
Insert the plug of the power cord into a household electrical outlet.
1 Power supply jack 2 Main power switch
c
Press the right side of the main power switch on the right side of the machine to turn the machine on (set it to “I”).
The light, LCD and the “Start/Stop” button light up
when the machine is turned on.
Turning off the machine
When you are finished using the machine, turn it off. In addition, before transporting the machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.
a
Make sure that the machine is not sewing.
b
Press the main power switch on the right side of the machine in the direction of the “ ” symbol to turn the machine off.
Select machine setting for the first time
When you first turn on the machine, select the language of your choice. Follow the procedure below when the settings screen appears automatically.
a
Use the “-” or “+” key to choose the desired language.
b
Press .
Memo
• When the machine is turned on, the needle and the feed dogs will make a sound when they move; this is not a malfunction.
• If the machine is turned off in the middle of sewing in the “Sewing” function, the operation will not resume after turning the power on again.
1
2
Page 17
LCD
GETTING READY
Basic operations B-9
B
Viewing the LCD
When the power is turned on, the LCD comes on, and the following screen is displayed. The screen will vary slightly depending on your machine model.
The screen is changed using the keys below the LCD.
LCD
No. Display Item Name Explanation Page
1 Presser foot Shows presser foot to be used. B-29
2 - Stitch preview Shows a preview of the selected stitch. B-32
3 Stitch category Shows the category of the currently selected stitch pattern.
: Preset utility stitch
: Utility stitch
: Decorative stitch (category 1)
: Decorative stitch (category 2)
: Decorative stitch (category 3)
: Character stitch (Gothic font)
: Character stitch (Handwriting font)
: Character stitch (Outline)
: Character stitch (Cyrillic font)
: Character stitch (Japanese font)
B-31
4 - Stitch number Shows the number of the currently selected stitch pattern. B-44
5 Needle position setting Shows single or twin needle mode setting, and the needle stop position.
: Single needle/down position
: Single needle/up position
: Twin needle/down position
: Twin needle/up position
B-10
6 Single/repeat sewing Shows single or continuous patterns sewing mode setting.
: Single sewing mode
: Repeat sewing mode
D-5
7 Horizontal mirror image Appears when the stitch is mirrored. B-40
8 Stitch width Shows the stitch width of the currently selected stitch pattern. B-37
9 Stitch length Shows the stitch length of the currently selected stitch pattern. B-37
0 Thread tension
(Equipped on some models. Refer to page page B-6)
Shows the automatic thread tension setting for the currently selected stitch pattern. B-38
5 6
3
1
7
2
8 9 0
4
5 6
3
1
7
2
8 9
4
Page 18
LCD
B-10
Settings screen
Press to change various sewing machine operations and sewing settings.
Press to move to previous/next pages.
* You can also move to next pages by pressing .
Press to select the next/previous items.
* Press (Downward arrow) to select the next item.
* Press (Upward arrow) to select the previous item.
Press to change the value of the selected item.
1 Page number (The page numbers vary depending on your machine model.) 2 Machine settings 3 Value
1 Use to check the pattern when the specified pattern is not displayed on the screen. For details, refer to “Checking the selected
pattern” in the “Decorative sewing” section.
2 Select the needle stop position (the needle position for when the machine is not being operated) to be up or down. 3 Set to “ON” when using twin needle. For details, refer to “Using the twin needle” on page B-23. 4 Allows the stitch width to be adjusted using the sewing speed controller. For details, refer to “Satin stitching using the sewing
speed controller” in the “Sewing” section.
5 Select either “01 Straight stitch (Left)” or “03 Straight stitch (Middle)” as the utility stitch that is automatically selected when the
machine is turned on.
6 Changes the stitch length when 7 mm satin stitch patterns are selected. For details, refer to “Changing the pattern length” in the
“Decorative sewing” section.
7 Changes the thread density when satin stitch patterns are selected. For details, refer to “Changing the stitch density” in the
“Decorative sewing” section.
8 Changes the character spacing. For details, refer to “Changing character spacing” in the “Decorative sewing” section.
Note
• The parameters and number of pages in the settings screens differ depending on the model of your machine. For details on the settings screen for your machine, refer to the Quick Reference Guide.
2
1
3
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Page 19
LCD
GETTING READY
Basic operations B-11
B
9 Changes the size of the stitch pattern. For details, refer to “Changing the pattern size” in the “Decorative sewing” section. 0 Adjusts the up and down position of the pattern. For details, refer to “Realigning the pattern” in the “Decorative sewing” section. A Adjusts the left and right position of the pattern. (Equipped on some models. Refer to page B-6.) For details on this function, refer
to “Realigning the pattern” in the “Decorative sewing” section.
B Adjust the presser foot pressure. The higher the number, the greater the pressure will be. For details on this function, refer to
“Adjusting the presser foot pressure” on page B-41.
C Adjust the height of the presser foot when the presser foot is raised. (Equipped on some models. Refer to page B-6.) D When set to “ON” the thickness of the fabric is automatically detected by an internal sensor while sewing. This enables the fabric
to be fed smoothly. (Equipped on some models. Refer to page B-6.) For details on this function, refer to “Automatic Fabric Sensor System (Automatic presser foot pressure)” on page B-41.
E Set to “ON” when sewing with the free motion mode. (Equipped on some models. Refer to page B-6.) For details on this function,
refer to “Sewing with free motion mode” on page B-42.
F Change the height of the presser foot when the machine is set to free motion sewing mode. (Equipped on some models. Refer to
page B-6.) For details on this function, refer to “Sewing with free motion mode” on page B-42.
G Change the height of the presser foot when sewing is stopped when the pivot key is selected. (Equipped on some models. Refer
to page B-6.) For details on this function, refer to “Pivoting” on page B-41.
H Specifies whether or not a beep is sounded with each operation. For details, refer to “Operation beep” in the “Appendix” section. I Switches the needle area and work area lights to remain “ON” or “OFF”. J Adjusts the brightness of the LCD. K When set “ON”, reinforcement stitches are sewn at the beginning and/or end of sewing for a reinforcement stitch pattern, even
when the reverse button is pressed. For details, refer to “Automatic reinforcement stitching” on page B-35.
L Select the level of the input sensitivity for operation keys. For details, refer to “Adjusting input sensitivity for operation keys” on
page B-12.
M Selects the display language. For details, refer to “Choosing the display language” on page B-12. N Displays the program version.
Memo
• Press or to return to the original screen.
9
0
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
N
Page 20
LCD
B-12
Choosing the display language
a
Press .
b
Select (Language) display.
c
Use the “-” or “+” key to choose the desired language.
d
Press to return to the original screen.
Adjusting input sensitivity for operation keys
You can adjust the sensitivity of the operation keys to five levels. Display the settings screen to set desired level.
1 Operation keys
a
Select (Input sensitivity) in the settings screen.
b
Adjust the input sensitivity by pressing the “-” or “+” key.
• The lower the setting, the less sensitive the keys will be; the higher the setting, the more sensitive the keys will be. The default setting is “3”.
If the machine does not respond when an operation key is pressed
Hold down (Thread cutter button) and turn on the machine to reset the settings. Display the settings screen, and then adjust the settings again.
1
Note
• We recommend selecting the highest setting if an electrostatic touch pen is being used.
Page 21
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
GETTING READY
Basic operations B-13
B
Winding the bobbin
This section describes how to wind thread onto a bobbin.
a
Open the top cover.
b
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch in the bobbin
.
Press down on the bobbin until it snaps into place.
1 Notch 2 Bobbin winder shaft spring
c
Slide the bobbin winder in the direction of the arrow until it snaps into place.
• The “Start/Stop” button lights up in orange.
d
Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the spool pin.
1 Spool pin 2 Spool cap
e
Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto the spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom.
• If the spool is not positioned so that the thread unwinds correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin.
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
CAUTION
• Only use the Bobbin (part code: X52800-120) designed specifically for this machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
• The included bobbin was designed specifically for this machine. If bobbins from other models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin or bobbins of the same type (X52800-120). X52800-120 is Class15 type bobbin.
* Actual size
1 This model 2 Other models 3 11.5 mm (approx. 7/16 inch)
Memo
• When the foot controller is connected, bobbin
winding can be started and stopped with the foot controller.
2
1
1
2
Page 22
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
B-14
f
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right, as shown, with the rounded side on the left.
CAUTION
• If the spool or the spool cap is not installed correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin, causing the needle to break.
• Three spool cap sizes are available, allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool or the machine may be damaged.
Memo
• When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread, use the small spool cap, and leave a small space between the cap and the spool.
1 Spool cap (small) 2 Spool (cross-wound thread) 3 Space
• When using thread that winds off quickly, such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, place the spool net over the spool before placing the spool of thread onto the spool pin. If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the size of the spool.
1 Spool net 2 Spool 3 Spool cap 4 Spool pin
• If a spool of thread whose core is 12 mm (1/2 inch) in diameter and 75 mm (3 inches) high is inserted onto the spool pin, use the thread spool insert (mini king thread spool).
1 Thread spool insert (mini king thread spool) 2 12 mm (1/2 inch) 3 75 mm (3 inches)
a
c
b
2
1
4
3
Page 23
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
GETTING READY
Basic operations B-15
B
g
While holding the thread near the spool with your right hand, as shown, pull the thread with your left hand, and then pass the thread behind the thread guide cover and to the front.
1 Thread guide cover
h
Pass the thread under the thread guide plate, and then pull it to the right.
1 Thread guide plate
i
Pass the thread under the hook on the thread guide, and then wind it counterclockwise under the pretension disk.
1 Thread guide 2 Pretension disk 3 Pull it in as far as possible
j
While holding the thread with your left hand, wind the thread that was pulled out clockwise around the bobbin five or six times with your right hand.
k
Pass the end of the thread through the guide slit in the bobbin winder seat, and then pull the thread to the right to cut it.
1 Guide slit in bobbin winder seat
(with built-in cutter)
l
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right.
1 Speed controller
m
Turn on the machine.
Note
• Make sure that the thread passes under the pretension disk.
1
1
1
2
3
Note
• Make sure that the thread between the spool and the bobbin is pulled tight.
• Be sure to wind the thread clockwise around the bobbin, otherwise the thread will become wrapped around the bobbin winder shaft.
CAUTION
• Be sure to cut the thread as described. If the bobbin is wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may become tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out.
Note
• Bobbin winding speeds may vary depending on
type of thread being wound on bobbin.
1
1
Page 24
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
B-16
n
Press the “Start/Stop” button once to start winding the bobbin. When the foot controller is plugged in, press down on the foot controller.
1 “Start/Stop” button
o
When the bobbin winding becomes slow, press the “Start/Stop” button once to stop the machine. When the foot controller is plugged in, remove your foot from the foot controller.
p
Use scissors to cut the end of the thread wound around the bobbin.
q
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left, and then remove the bobbin from the shaft.
r
Slide the sewing speed controller back to desired sewing speed position.
s
Remove the spool for the bobbin thread from the spool pin.
Installing the bobbin
Install the bobbin wound with thread. You can begin sewing immediately without pulling up the bobbin thread by simply inserting the bobbin in the bobbin case and guiding the thread through the slit in the needle plate cover.
a
Press (Needle position button) once or twice to raise the needle, and then lower the presser foot lever.
b
Press .
• If is pressed while the presser foot is raised, an error message appears: “Lower the presser foot lever.” or “Use the presser foot lifter button to lower the presser foot.”
The screen changes, and all keys and operation
buttons are locked (except ).
c
Raise the presser foot lever.
CAUTION
• When the bobbin winding becomes slow, stop the machine, otherwise the machine may be damaged.
Memo
• If the bobbin winder shaft is set to the right side,
the needle will not move. (Sewing is impossible.)
Memo
• When the machine is started or the handwheel is
turned after winding the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction.
1
Memo
• For details on sewing after pulling up the bobbin thread, for example, when making gathers or with free motion quilting, refer to “Pulling up the bobbin thread” on page B-22.
CAUTION
• Use a bobbin that has been correctly wound with thread, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.
• Before inserting or changing the bobbin, be sure to press (Presser foot/Needle
exchange key) on the operation panel to lock all keys and buttons, otherwise injuries may occur if the “Start/Stop” button or any other button is pressed and the machine starts.
Page 25
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
GETTING READY
Basic operations B-17
B
d
Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.
1 Bobbin cover 2 Latch
e
Remove the bobbin cover.
f
Hold the bobbin with your right hand with the thread unwinding to the left, and hold the end of the thread with your left hand. Then, with your right hand, place the bobbin in the bobbin case.
g
Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right hand (1), and then guide the end of the thread around the tab of the needle plate cover with your left hand (2).
1 Tab
h
While lightly holding down the bobbin with your right hand (1), guide the thread through the slit in the needle plate cover (2) and lightly pull it with your left hand (3).
• The thread enters the tension spring of the bobbin case.
i
While lightly holding down the bobbin with your right hand (1), continue guiding the thread through the slit with your left hand (2) Then, cut the thread with the cutter (3).
CAUTION
• Be sure to hold down the bobbin with your finger and unwind the bobbin thread correctly, otherwise the thread may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.
2
1
Memo
• The order that the bobbin thread should be passed through the bobbin case is indicated by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.
Page 26
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
B-18
j
Reattach the bobbin cover.
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.
The bobbin threading is finished.
Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with the procedure in “Upper Threading” on page B-19.
k
Press to unlock all keys and buttons.
Note
• If the thread is not correctly inserted through the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin case, it may cause incorrect thread tension.
1 Tension-adjusting spring
Memo
• You can begin sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull up the thread according to the procedure in “Pulling up the bobbin thread” on page B-22.
1
1
2
Page 27
Upper Threading
GETTING READY
Basic operations B-19
B
Threading the upper thread
a
Turn on the machine.
b
Raise the presser foot lever to raise the presser foot.
1 Presser foot lever
The upper thread shutter opens so the machine can
be threaded.
c
Press (Needle position button) once or twice to raise the needle.
1 Needle position button
The needle is correctly raised when the mark on the
handwheel is at the top, as shown below. Check the
handwheel and, if this mark is not at this position, press (Needle position button) until it is.
1 Mark on handwheel
d
Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the spool pin.
1 Spool pin 2 Spool cap
Upper Threading
CAUTION
• Three spool cap sizes are available, allowing
you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool or the needle may break. For more information regarding the choice of spool caps for your thread choice, see page B-14.
• When threading the upper thread, carefully
follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.
• Never use a thread weight of 20 or lower.
• Use the needle and the thread in the correct
combination. For details on the correct combination of needles and threads, refer to “Fabric/thread/needle combinations” on page B-26.
Note
• If the presser foot is not raised, the machine cannot be threaded.
1
1
1
1
2
Page 28
Upper Threading
B-20
e
Place the spool of thread onto the spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom.
f
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right, as shown, with the rounded side on the left.
g
While holding the thread lightly with your right hand, pull the thread with your left hand, and then pass the thread behind the thread guide cover and to the front.
1 Thread guide cover
h
Pass the thread under the thread guide plate, and then pull it up.
1 Thread guide plate
i
While using your right hand to lightly hold the thread passed under the thread guide plate, pass the thread through the guides in the order shown below.
j
Lower the presser foot.
k
Press .
• If is pressed while the presser foot is raised, an error message appears: “Lower the presser foot lever.” or “Use the presser foot lifter button to lower the presser foot.”
The screen changes, and all keys and operation
buttons are locked (except ).
CAUTION
• If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin or the needle may break.
1
Note
• If the presser foot has been lowered and the shutter is closed, the machine cannot be threaded. Be sure to raise the presser foot to open the shutter before threading the machine. In addition, before removing the upper thread, be sure to raise the presser foot to open the shutter.
• This machine is equipped with a window that allows you to check the position of the take-up lever. Look through this window and check that the thread is correctly fed through the take-up lever.
Page 29
Upper Threading
GETTING READY
Basic operations B-21
B
l
Slide the thread behind the needle bar thread guide.
The thread can easily be slid behind the needle bar thread guide by holding the thread in your left hand, then feeding the thread with your right hand, as shown.
1 Needle bar thread guide
m
Raise the presser foot lever.
Threading the needle
a
Pull the end of the thread, which has been passed through the needle bar thread guide, to the left, then pass the thread through the notch of the threader thread guide a, and then firmly pull the thread from the front and insert it into the slit of the threader thread guide disk marked “7” all the way b.
• Make sure that the thread passes through the notch of the threader thread guide.
1 Notch of the threader thread guide 2 Threader thread guide disk
b
Cut the thread with the cutter on the left side of the machine.
1 Cutter
c
Lower the presser foot lever to lower the presser foot.
1 Presser foot lever
Memo
• The needle threader can be used with machine needles 75/11 through 100/16.
• The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle or the twin needle.
• When thread such as transparent nylon monofilament or specialty threads are used it is not recommended to use the needle threader.
• If the needle threader cannot be used, refer to “Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)” on page B-22.
1
1
2
2
1
Note
• If the thread is pulled through and cannot be cut correctly, lower the presser foot lever so that the thread is held in place before cutting the thread. If this operation is performed, skip step
c.
• When using thread that quickly winds off the spool, such as metallic thread, it may be difficult to thread the needle if the thread is cut. Therefore, instead of using the thread cutter, pull out about 80 mm (approx. 3 inches) of thread after passing it through the threader thread guide disks (marked “7”).
1 80 mm (approx. 3 inches) or more
1
1
1
Page 30
Upper Threading
B-22
d
Lower the needle threader lever on the left side of the machine until it clicks, and then slowly return the lever to its original position.
1 Hook 2 Needle threader lever
The hook is rotated and passes the thread through the
eye of the needle.
e
Carefully pull the end of thread that was passed through the eye of the needle.
If the needle was not completely threaded, but a loop in the thread was formed in the eye of the needle, carefully pull the loop through the eye of the needle to pull out the end of the thread.
f
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the thread through and under the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (approx. 2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.
1 5 cm (approx. 2 inches)
g
Press to unlock all keys and buttons.
Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)
When using specialty thread, such as transparent nylon thread, a wing needle or a twin needle which cannot be used with the needle threader, thread the needle as described below.
a
Thread the machine to the needle bar thread guide.
• For details, refer to “Upper Threading” on page B-19.
b
Lower the presser foot lever.
1 Presser foot lever
c
Insert the thread through the eye of the needle from front to back.
d
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the thread through and under the presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm (approx. 2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the machine.
e
Press to unlock all keys and buttons.
Pulling up the bobbin thread
When making gathers or before free motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.
a
Refer to “Threading the upper thread” (page B-19) to thread the machine with the upper thread and thread the needle.
b
Follow steps d to f in “Installing the bobbin” (page B-16) for installing the bobbin to insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.
c
Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.
Do not cut the thread with the cutter.
Note
• If the needle is not raised to its highest position, the needle threader cannot thread the needle. Turn the handwheel counterclockwise until the needle is at its highest position. The needle is correctly raised when the mark on the handwheel is at the top, as shown under step
c on
page B-19.
CAUTION
• When pulling out the thread, do not pull it with extreme force, otherwise the needle may break or bend.
1
1
Page 31
Upper Threading
GETTING READY
Basic operations B-23
B
d
While lightly holding the upper thread with your left hand, press (Needle position button) twice to raise the needle.
The bobbin thread is looped around the upper thread
and can be pulled up.
e
Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull out the end of the bobbin thread.
f
Pull up the bobbin thread, pass it under the presser foot and pull it about 10 cm (4 inches) toward the back of the machine, making it even with the upper thread.
g
Reattach the bobbin cover.
Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side.
Using the twin needle
With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines of the same stitch with two different threads. Both upper threads should have the same thickness and quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the horizontal spool pin and the appropriate spool cap.
For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” beginning on page B-44.
a
Install the twin needle.
• For details on installing a needle, refer to “Replacing the needle” on page B-27.
b
Thread the upper thread for the left needle eye.
• For details, refer to steps
a through l of
“Threading the upper thread” on page B-19.
c
Manually thread the left needle with the upper thread.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front.
1
2
Memo
• Traditionally a twin needle is also used for creating pintucks. Contact your nearest authorized Baby Lock retailer to obtain the optional pintuck foot for your machine (ESG-PF).
CAUTION
• Only use the twin needle (2.0/11 needle, part code: X59296-121). Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.
• Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
• The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the machine may be damaged.
Page 32
Upper Threading
B-24
d
Insert the horizontal spool pin onto the bobbin winder shaft.
Insert the horizontal spool pin so that it is perpendicular to the bobbin winder shaft.
1 Bobbin winder shaft
e
Swing the spool pin toward the left so that it is horizontal.
f
Place the upper thread spool for the needle on the right side onto the horizontal spool pin, and then secure it with the spool cap.
The thread should unroll from the top front of the spool.
1 Spool cap 2 Spool
g
Thread the upper thread in the same way that the upper thread for the left side was threaded.
1 Thread guide cover
• For details, refer to steps g through i of
“Threading the upper thread” on page B-19.
h
Without passing the thread through the needle bar thread guide, manually thread the right needle.
Insert the thread through the eye of the needle from the front.
• The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the machine may be damaged.
i
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details on changing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” on page B-29.
j
Turn on the machine and select a stitch.
• For stitch selection see “Selecting a stitch pattern” on page B-32.
• See “Stitch Setting Chart” on page B-44 for stitches that use a twin needle.
k
Select (Twin needle) in the settings screen.
l
Set the twin needle mode to “ON.”
m
Press .
1
12
1
CAUTION
• When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot “J”. If bunched stitches occur, use presser foot “N” or attach stabilizer material.
CAUTION
• When using the twin needle, be sure to select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
CAUTION
• When using the twin needle, be sure to select the twin needle setting, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
Page 33
Upper Threading
GETTING READY
Basic operations B-25
B
n
Start sewing.
• For details on starting to sew, refer to “STARTING TO SEW” on page B-31.
Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to each other.
Note
• When changing the sewing direction, press (Needle position button) to raise the needle from the fabric, and then raise the presser foot lever and turn the fabric.
CAUTION
• Do not try turning the fabric while the twin needle is down in the fabric, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
Page 34
Replacing the Needle
B-26
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below.
Fabric/thread/needle combinations
The machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
Thread and needle number
The lower the thread number is, the heavier the thread; the higher the needle number, the larger the needle.
Ball point needle (gold colored)
To avoid skipped stitches use ball point needles (75/ 11–90/14) with stretch fabrics.
Transparent nylon thread
Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the fabric or thread.
Replacing the Needle
CAUTION
• Only use recommended home machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine.
• Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
Fabric Type/Application Thread Size of Needle
Type Size
Medium weight
fabrics
Broadcloth Cotton thread
60–90
75/11–90/14
Taffeta Synthetic thread
Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread 50
Thin fabrics Lawn Cotton thread
60–90
65/9–75/11
Georgette Synthetic thread
Challis, Satin Silk thread 50
Heavy fabrics Denim
Cotton thread
30 100/16
50
90/14–100/16
Corduroy Synthetic thread
50–60
Tweed Silk thread
Stretch fabrics Jersey
Thread for knits 50–60
Ball point needle
75/11–90/14
(gold colored)
Tr ic ot
Easily frayed fabrics
Cotton thread
50–90
65/9–90/14Synthetic thread
Silk thread 50
For top-stitching
Synthetic thread 30 100/16
Silk thread 50–90 90/11–90/14
Note
• Never use thread of 20 weight or lower. It may
cause machine to malfunction.
CAUTION
• The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the table above. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing heavy fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.
Page 35
Replacing the Needle
GETTING READY
Basic operations B-27
B
Checking the needle
Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even.
1 Flat side 2 Needle type marking
Replacing the needle
Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in “Checking the needle”.
a
Press (Needle position button) once or twice to raise the needle.
b
Place fabric or paper under the presser foot to cover the hole in the needle plate.
c
Lower the presser foot.
d
Press .
• If is pressed while the presser foot is raised, an error message appears: “Lower the presser foot lever.” or “Use the presser foot lifter button to lower the presser foot.”
The screen changes, and all keys and operation
buttons are locked (except ).
e
Hold the needle with your left hand, and then use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp screw toward you (counterclockwise) to remove the needle.
• The needle clamp screw can also be loosened or tightened with the L-shaped (or disc-shaped) screwdriver.
1 Screwdriver 2 Needle clamp screw
• Do not apply a strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of the machine may be damaged.
f
With the flat side of the needle toward the rear of the machine, insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper.
1 Needle stopper
CAUTION
• If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use a bent needle.
1 Flat surface
Note
• Before replacing the needle, cover the hole in the
needle plate with fabric or paper to prevent the needle from falling into the machine.
1
2
1
1
2
1
1
Page 36
Replacing the Needle
B-28
g
While holding the needle with your left hand, use the screwdriver to tighten the needle clamp screw.
Turn the screw toward the back of the machine (clockwise).
h
Press to unlock all keys and buttons.
CAUTION
• Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break or damage may result.
Page 37
Replacing the Presser Foot
GETTING READY
Basic operations B-29
B
Replacing the presser foot
a
Press (Needle position button) once or twice to raise the needle.
b
Lower the presser foot.
c
Press .
• If is pressed while the presser foot is raised, an error message appears: “Lower the presser foot lever.” or “Use the presser foot lifter button to lower the presser foot.”
The screen changes, and all keys and operation
buttons are locked (except ).
d
Raise the presser foot lever.
e
Press the black button at the back of the presser foot holder.
1 Black button 2 Presser foot holder
f
Place a different presser foot below the holder so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the notch in the holder.
1 Presser foot holder 2 Notch 3 Pin 4 Presser foot type
g
Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the presser foot holder.
1 Presser foot lever 2 Presser foot holder 3 Notch 4 Pin
The presser foot is attached.
h
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the presser foot is securely attached.
1 Presser foot lever
i
Press to unlock all keys and buttons.
Replacing the Presser Foot
CAUTION
• Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.
• Only use presser feet designed specifically for this machine. Use of any other presser foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
a
b
1
2
3
4
J
2
3
4
1
1
Page 38
Replacing the Presser Foot
B-30
Removing and attaching the presser foot holder
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder, such as the walking foot and quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder.
a
Remove the presser foot.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” on page B-29.
b
Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot holder screw.
Turn the screw toward the back of the machine (counterclockwise).
• The presser foot holder screw can also be loosened or tightened with the L-shaped (or disc-shaped) screwdriver.
1 Screwdriver 2 Presser foot holder 3 Presser foot holder screw
Attaching the presser foot holder
a
Raise the presser foot lever.
b
Align the presser foot holder with the lower-left side of the presser bar.
c
Hold the presser foot holder in place with your right hand, and then tighten the screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.
Turn the screw toward you (clockwise).
1 Screwdriver
Note
• When a stitch is selected, the icon for the presser foot that should be used appears in the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, attach the correct presser foot.
Zigzag foot “J”
Monogramming foot “N”
Overcasting foot “G”
Buttonhole foot “A”
Blind stitch foot “R”
Button fitting foot “M”
Side cutter “S”
• For details on the presser foot that should be used with the selected stitch, refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” on page B-44.
13
2
CAUTION
• Be sure to securely tighten the presser foot holder screw, otherwise the presser foot holder may fall off and the needle may strike it, causing the needle to bend or break.
Note
• If the presser foot holder is not correctly
installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.
1
Page 39
Sewing
Basic operations B-31
STARTING TO SEW
B
Stitch selection methods
A stitch can be selected from the following methods available.
Stitch patterns can be selected through either direct select (by pressing the designated key for a specific stitch) or number selection (by entering the number for the stitch pattern).
For details on the types of stitches available, refer to the Quick Reference Guide.
Direct selection
With direct selection, there are two stitch modes listed
below. Each press of switches the modes.
Preset utility stitch
Saved patterns
1 Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key 2 Numeric keys
Number selection
After pressing (Utility stitch key), (Decorative
stitch key) or (Character stitch key) to select the stitch mode, use the numeric keys to type in the number for the desired stitch.
1 Utility stitch key 2 Decorative stitch key 3 Character stitch key 4 Numeric keys
Utility stitches
There are various utility stitches, including straight
stitches, overcasting stitches and buttonhole stitches.
Decorative stitches
There are three decorative stitch modes: decorative stitch
1 mode , decorative stitch 2 mode and
decorative stitch 3 mode . For details, refer to “Selecting stitch patterns” in the “Decorative sewing” section.
Chapter 2
STARTING TO SEW
Sewing
CAUTION
• While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise injuries may occur.
• Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break.
• Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
• Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or bend.
The most frequently used utility stitches have been assigned to the numeric keys. These stitches can be selected simply by pressing the designated key. For details, refer to “Preset utility stitches” on page B-50.
Frequently used patterns and combined patterns can be saved on the machine’s memory and easily
retrieved using (Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key) and the numeric keys. For details, refer
to “Saving a pattern” in the “Decorative sewing” section.
1
2
1
2
3
4
Page 40
Sewing
B-32
Character stitches
There are five character stitch modes: Gothic font mode
, Handwriting font mode , Outline font mode
, Cyrillic font mode and Japanese font mode
. For details, refer to “Selecting stitch patterns” in the “Decorative sewing” section.
Selecting a stitch pattern
When selecting a utility stitch
a
Press .
is displayed on the upper-left corner of the LCD
screen.
b
Enter the number of the desired stitch using numeric keys.
• For number of each stitch, refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” on page B-44 or the Quick Reference Guide.
• For stitches 01 through 09, the stitch can also be selected by using the numeric keys to type in a one-
digit number, then pressing .
• When using one-digit numbers and it is entered incorrectly, press to erase the entered number.
The selected stitch is displayed on the LCD screen.
When selecting from the preset utility stitches
Since various stitches have been assigned to the numeric keys, these stitches can be selected simply by pressing the designated numeric key.
a
Check that appears in the upper-left corner of the screen.
If a different icon is displayed, press .
b
Press the numeric key on which the desired stitch is printed.
When selecting a character/decorative stitch
After pressing or on the operation panel the necessary number of times, enter a number. For more details, refer to “Selecting stitch patterns” in the “Decorative sewing” section.
Page 41
Sewing
Basic operations B-33
STARTING TO SEW
B
Sewing a stitch
a
Turn the main power to ON and push (Needle position button) to raise the needle.
b
Select the desired stitch following the procedure described in “Selecting a stitch pattern” above.
c
If necessary, specify the setting for automatic reverse/ reinforcement stitching and adjust the stitch length, etc.
• For details on adjusting the stitch width and length, refer to “Setting the stitch width” on page B-37 and “Setting the stitch length” on page B-37.
d
Install the presser foot.
• For details on changing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the Presser Foot” on page B-29.
e
Set the fabric under the presser foot. Hold the fabric and thread with your left hand, and rotate the handwheel counterclockwise or press (needle position button) to set the needle in the sewing start position.
f
Lower the presser foot.
You do not have to pull up the bobbin thread.
g
Adjust the sewing speed with the sewing speed controller.
You can use this controller to adjust sewing speed during sewing.
1 Fast 2 Slow
h
Press the “Start/Stop” button to start sewing.
Guide the fabric lightly by hand.
i
Press the “Start/Stop” button again to stop sewing.
j
Press the (Thread cutter button) to trim the upper and lower threads.
1 Thread cutter button
The needle will return to the up position
automatically.
Note
• When a stitch is selected, the icon for the presser foot that should be used appears on the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, attach the correct presser foot.
CAUTION
• Always use the correct presser foot. If the wrong presser foot is used, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, possibly resulting in injury. Refer to page B-44 for presser foot recommendations.
Memo
• The black button on the left side of presser foot
“J” should be pressed only if the fabric does not feed or when sewing thick seams. For details, refer to “Sewing thick fabrics” in the “Sewing” section. Normally, you can sew without pressing the black button.
Memo
• When the foot controller is being used, you cannot start sewing by pressing the “Start/Stop” button.
b
a
1
Page 42
Sewing
B-34
k
When the needle has stopped moving, raise the presser foot and remove the fabric.
Using the foot controller
You can also use the foot controller to start and stop sewing.
a
Turn off the machine.
b
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on the machine.
1 Foot controller jack
c
Turn on the machine.
d
Slowly depress the foot controller to start sewing.
e
Release the foot controller to stop the machine.
CAUTION
• Do not press (Thread cutter button) after the threads have been cut. Doing so could tangle the thread or break the needle and damage the machine.
• Do not press (Thread cutter button) when there is no fabric set in the machine or during machine operation. The thread may tangle, possibly resulting in damage.
Note
• When cutting thread such as nylon monofilament
thread, or other decorative threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine.
CAUTION
• Do not allow fabric pieces and dust to collect in the foot controller. Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock.
Memo
• When the foot controller is being used, you
cannot start sewing by pressing the “Start/Stop” button.
• Bobbin winding can be started and stopped with
the foot controller.
Memo
• The speed that is set using the sewing speed controller will be the foot controller’s maximum sewing speed.
1
Page 43
Sewing
Basic operations B-35
STARTING TO SEW
B
Sewing reinforcement stitches
Reverse/reinforcement stitches are generally necessary at the
beginning and end of sewing. You can use (Reverse stitch button) to sew reverse/reinforcement stitches (Refer to “Stitch
Setting Chart” under the column for “Reverse/ Reinforcement stitching” on page B-44.).
While pressing
(Reinforcement stitch button), the machine
will sew 3 to 5 reinforcement stitches at that point and then stop.
1 Reverse stitch button 2 Reinforcement stitch button
If the automatic reinforcement stitch is selected on the screen, reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) will be sewn automatically at the beginning of sewing when the “Start/
Stop” button is pressed. Press (Reverse stitch button) or
(Reinforcement stitch button) to sew reverse stitches or
reinforcement stitches automatically at the end of sewing.
1 Reverse stitch 2 Reinforcement stitch
The operation performed when the button is pressed differs depending on the selected pattern. Refer to the table in “Automatic reinforcement stitching” on page B-35.
Automatic reinforcement stitching
After selecting a stitch motif, turn on the automatic reinforcement stitching function before sewing, and the machine will automatically sew reinforcement stitches (or reverse stitches, depending on the stitch motif) at the beginning and end of sewing. Refer to the table on page B-36.
a
Select a stitch pattern.
b
Press to set the automatic reinforcement stitching function.
The key will be lit.
c
Set the fabric in the start position and begin sewing.
1 Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches)
The machine will automatically sew reverse stitches
(or reinforcement stitches) and then continue sewing.
Memo
• While pressing (Reinforcement stitch button) when sewing character/decorative stitch pattern, you can end sewing with a completed motif
instead of at the midpoint of a stitch motif.
• The green light on the left of (Reinforcement stitch button) lights up while the machine is sewing a full motif, and it automatically turns off
when the sewing is stopped.
1 2
Memo
• Some stitches, such as buttonholes and bar tacks, require reinforcement stitches at the beginning of sewing. If you select one of these stitches, the machine will automatically turn on this function (the key is lit when the stitch is selected).
Memo
• When selecting the stitches below, the machine will automatically sew reverse stitches at the beginning of the stitch.
• If you press the “Start/Stop” button to pause sewing, press it again to continue. The machine will not sew reverse/reinforcement stitches again.
Page 44
Sewing
B-36
d
Press (Reverse stitch button) or (Reinforcement stitch button).
1 Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches)
The machine will sew reverse stitches (or
reinforcement stitches) and stop.
The operation performed when the button is pressed differs depending on the selected pattern. Refer to the following table for details on the operation that is performed when the button is pressed.
* If (Reinforcement priority) in the settings
screen is set to “ON”, reinforcement stitches are sewn instead of reverse stitches.
Memo
• To turn off the automatic reinforcement stitching
function, press so that the key is no longer lit.
Reverse stitch
button
Reinforcement
stitch button
When the automatic reinforcement stitching function is not active while selecting utility stitches like examples shown below
Machine starts sewing the stitches and only sews reverse stitches while holding the Reverse stitch button.
Machine starts sewing the stitches and sews 3 - 5 reinforcement stitches while holding the Reinforcement stitch button.
When the automatic reinforcement stitching function is not active while selecting utility stitches like examples shown below
Machine starts sewing the stitches and only sews reverse stitches while holding the Reverse stitch button.*
Machine starts sewing the stitches and sews 3 - 5 reinforcement stitches while holding the Reinforcement stitch button.
When the automatic reinforcement stitching function is active while selecting utility stitches like examples shown below
Machine sews reverse stitches at the beginning and end of sewing.
Machine sews reverse stitches at the beginning and reinforcement stitches at the end of sewing.
When the automatic reinforcement stitching function is active while selecting utility stitches like examples shown below
Machine sews reinforcement stitches at the beginning and reverse stitches at the end of sewing.*
Machine sews reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of sewing.
When the automatic reinforcement stitching function is not active while selecting character/ decorative stitches
Machine starts sewing and then sews reinforcement stitches while holding the Reverse stitch button.
Machine starts sewing at the beginning, then completes the pattern and sews reinforcement stitches at the end of sewing.
When the automatic reinforcement stitching function is active while selecting character/decorative stitches
Machine sews reinforcement stitches at the beginning and sews reinforcement stitches when the Reverse stitch button is pressed.
Machine sews reinforcement stitches at the beginning, then completes the pattern and sews reinforcement stitches at the end of sewing.
Reverse stitch
button
Reinforcement
stitch button
Page 45
Setting the Stitch
Basic operations B-37
STARTING TO SEW
B
This machine is preset with the default settings for the stitch width and stitch length for each stitch. Some models are also preset with the default settings for upper thread tension for each stitch. However, you can change their settings or adjust them by following the procedure described in this section.
Setting the stitch width
The stitch width (zigzag width) can be adjusted to make the stitch wider or narrower.
Each press of “-” makes the zigzag stitch narrower.
Each press of
“+” makes the zigzag stitch wider.
Setting the stitch length
The stitch length can be adjusted to make the stitch coarser (longer) or finer (shorter).
Each press of “-”
makes the stitch finer (shorter).
Each press of
“+” makes the stitch coarser (longer).
Setting the Stitch
Note
• Stitch settings return to their defaults if they are changed, when the machine is turned off or a different stitch is selected before the stitch setting is saved, refer to “Saving stitch settings” on page B-39.
Memo
• Press to return the setting to its default.
• If the straight stitch (left needle position or triple stretch stitch) was selected, changing the stitch width changes the needle position. Increasing the width moves the needle to the right; reducing the width moves the needle to the left.
means the setting cannot be adjusted.
CAUTION
• After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
Memo
• Press to return the setting to its default.
means the setting cannot be adjusted.
Page 46
Setting the Stitch
B-38
Setting the thread tension
You may need to change the thread tension, depending on the fabric and thread being used.
Correct thread tension
The upper thread and the bobbin thread should cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper thread should be visible from the right side of the fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be visible from the wrong side of the fabric.
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric 3 Upper thread 4 Bobbin thread
Upper thread is too tight
If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight. Loosen the thread tension.
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric 3 Upper thread 4 Bobbin thread 5 The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the
fabric.
Upper thread is too loose
If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose. Tighten the thread tension.
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric 3 Upper thread 4 Bobbin thread 5 The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the
fabric.
Adjusting the thread tension
Using thread tension key (For models equipped with thread tension key. Refer to page B-6)
Use the “-” and “+” keys. Each time the “-” key is pressed less tension is applied. Each time the “+” key is pressed more tension is applied.
Using thread tension dial (For models equipped with thread tension dial. Refer to page B-6)
Pushing the thread tension dial toward the left makes the thread tension looser.
Note
• If the bobbin thread was incorrectly threaded, the upper thread may be too tight. In this case, refer to “Installing the bobbin” on page B-16 and rethread the bobbin thread.
Note
• If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded, the upper thread may be too loose. In this case, refer to “Upper Threading” on page B-19 and rethread the upper thread.
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
4
5
Note
• If the upper thread is not threaded correctly or the bobbin is not installed correctly, it may not be possible to set the correct thread tension. If the correct thread tension cannot be achieved, rethread the upper thread and insert the bobbin correctly.
Memo
• Press to return the setting to its default.
5
1
2
3
4
Page 47
Setting the Stitch
Basic operations B-39
STARTING TO SEW
B
Pushing the thread tension dial toward the right makes the thread tension tighter.
Saving stitch settings
If you wish to save specific settings for a stitch so that they can
be used later, press after changing the settings to save the new settings with the selected stitch.
This feature can be used only with utility stitches.
To use a stitch length of 2.0 mm for the straight stitch
a
Select a straight stitch.
b
Set the stitch length to 2.0 mm.
c
Press .
• To reset the selected stitch pattern back to its default
settings, press , and then press .
Note
• The next time that the same straight stitch is selected, the stitch length is set to 2.0 mm.
• Both of the stitch width (zigzag width) and stitch length are saved, not just the setting that was changed. With models equipped with the thread tension keys, the setting for upper thread tension is also saved, even if it was not changed. When the same stitch pattern is selected, the last settings saved are displayed even if the machine was turned off. If the settings are changed again,
or if is pressed to reset the setting to its default, the new settings are not saved unless
is pressed another time.
Even if is pressed, the settings for programmed thread cutting and automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching cannot be reset.
Page 48
Useful Functions
B-40
Automatically cutting the thread
The machine can be set to automatically cut the threads at the end of the stitching. This is called “programmed thread­cutting”. If programmed thread-cutting is set, automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching is also set.
a
Turn on the machine.
b
Select a stitch.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting a stitch pattern” on page B-32.
c
Press .
and are lit, and the machine is set for
programmed thread-cutting and automatic reverse/ reinforcement stitching.
• To turn programmed thread cutting off, press .
d
Set the fabric in place, and press the “Start/Stop” button once.
Stitching will begin after reverse stitches or
reinforcement stitches are sewn.
e
Once you have reached the end of the stitching, press
(Reverse stitch button) or (Reinforcement stitch
button) once.
If stitching, such as buttonholes and bar tacking, that includes reinforcement stitching has been selected, this operation is unnecessary.
After the reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching
has been done, the machine stops, and the thread is cut.
1 The point where the “Start/Stop” button was pressed.
2 The point where (Reverse stitch button) or
(Reinforcement stitch button) was pressed.
3 The thread is cut here.
Mirroring stitches
You can sew the mirror image of a stitch horizontally (left and right).
a
Turn on the machine.
b
Select a stitch.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting a stitch pattern” on page B-32.
c
Press .
is displayed on the screen, and the pattern
displayed on the screen is mirrored.
• To turn the mirrored stitching off, press again.
Useful Functions
32
1
Memo
• Programmed thread-cutting will not be performed if the “Start/Stop” button is pressed while sewing.
Press (Reverse stitch button) or (Reinforcement stitch button) at the end of the stitching.
• If the power is turned off, programmed thread­cutting will be turned off.
Page 49
Useful Functions
Basic operations B-41
STARTING TO SEW
B
Adjusting the presser foot pressure
You can adjust the presser foot pressure (the amount of pressure applied to the fabric by the presser foot) on the settings screen. The higher the number, the greater the pressure will be. Set the pressure at “3” for normal sewing.
a
Select (Presser foot pressure) in the settings screen.
b
Adjust the pressure by pressing the “-” or “+” key.
Automatic Fabric Sensor System (Automatic presser foot pressure)
(For models equipped with automatic fabric sensor system. Refer to page B-6)
The thickness of the fabric is automatically detected and the presser foot pressure is automatically adjusted with an internal sensor while sewing, to insure that your fabric is fed smoothly. The fabric sensor system works continuously while sewing. This function is useful for sewing over thick seams or quilting. For details, refer to the “Sewing” section.
a
Select (Automatic fabric sensor system) in the settings screen.
b
Set the sensor system to “ON” by pressing the “-” or “+” key.
Pivoting
(For models equipped with pivot function. Refer to page B-6)
If the pivot key is selected, the machine stops with the needle lowered (in the fabric) and the presser foot is automatically raised to an appropriate height when the “Start/Stop” button is pressed. When the “Start/Stop” button is pressed again, the presser foot is automatically lowered and sewing continues. This function is useful for stopping the machine to rotate the fabric.
Memo
• Depending on the selected stitch, mirroring may not be possible; for example, buttonhole stitch.
• When the machine is turned off, the mirroring setting is cancelled.
CAUTION
• When the pivot key is selected, the machine will begin stitching when the “Start/Stop” button is pressed or the foot controller is pressed down even if the presser foot has been
raised by pressing (presser foot lifter button). Be sure to keep your hands and other items away from the needle, otherwise injuries may occur.
Memo
• When the pivot key is selected, the height of the
presser foot when sewing is stopped can be changed according to the type of fabric being
sewn. Select (Pivoting height) in the settings screen. Press the “-” or “+” key to select one of the three heights (3.2 mm, 5.0 mm or 7.5 mm). Generally 3.2 mm is the preferred setting.
Page 50
Useful Functions
B-42
a
Select a stitch.
b
Press to select the pivot function.
The key will be lit.
c
Place the fabric under the presser foot with the needle at the starting point of the stitching, lower the presser foot and then press the “Start/Stop” button. The machine will begin sewing.
d
Press the “Start/Stop” button to stop the machine at the point where the sewing direction changes.
The machine stops with the needle in the fabric, and
the presser foot is raised.
e
Rotate the fabric, and then press the “Start/Stop” button.
The presser foot is automatically lowered, and
sewing continues.
Sewing with free motion mode
(For models equipped with free motion mode. Refer to page B-6)
With free motion mode, the presser foot is raised to the necessary height for free motion sewing. When starting to sew, the internal sensor detects the thickness of the fabric, and the quilting foot is raised to the height specified in the machine settings screen.
In free motion mode, lower the feed dogs (using the feed dog position switch) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction.
Setting the machine to free motion mode
a
Select a stitch pattern.
b
Select (Free motion) in the settings screen.
c
Set the free motion mode to “ON” by pressing the “-” or “+” key.
Note
(Needle position) in the settings screen, must be set to the down position
for the pivot function
to be used. When (Needle position) is set in
the raised position, cannot be used. The pivot function can only be used with stitches where presser foot J or N is indicated on the
screen. If any other stitch is selected, is not available.
• Use (Presser foot lifter button) to make sure the presser foot is lowered, and then press the “Start/Stop” button to continue sewing.
• If the pivot key is selected, (Presser foot height) setting in the settings screen can not be changed.
Memo
• If you press the “Start/Stop” button to pause sewing, press it again to continue, reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) will not be sewn.
Page 51
Useful Functions
Basic operations B-43
STARTING TO SEW
B
Adjusting free motion presser foot height
a
Select (Free motion foot height) in the settings screen.
b
Adjust the height that the quilting foot is raised above
the fabric by pressing the “-” or “+” key.
• Increase the setting by pressing “+”, for example, when sewing very stretchy fabric, so that it is easier to sew.
Hands-free raising and lifting of the presser foot
Using the knee lifter, you can raise and lower the presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free to handle the fabric.
Installing the knee lifter
a
Turn off the machine.
b
Insert the knee lifter into the mounting slot on the front of the machine in the lower-right corner.
Align the tabs on the knee lifter with the notches in the mounting slot, and then insert the knee lifter as far as possible.
Using the knee lifter
a
Stop the machine.
• Do not use the knee lifter while the machine is operating.
b
With your knee, press the knee lifter to the right.
Keep the knee lifter pressed to the right.
The presser foot is raised.
c
Release the knee lifter.
The presser foot is lowered.
CAUTION
• With free motion quilting, control the feeding speed of the fabric to match the sewing speed. If the fabric is moved faster than the sewing speed, the needle may break or other damage may result.
Memo
• In order to sew with a balanced tension, it may be
necessary to adjust the upper thread tension. For details, refer to “Setting the thread tension” on page B-38. Test with a sample piece of quilting fabric.
Note
• If the knee lifter is not fully inserted into the mounting slot, it may fall out while the machine is operating.
CAUTION
• While sewing, keep your knee away from the knee lifter. If the knee lifter is pressed while the machine is operating, the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.
Page 52
Stitch Setting Chart
B-44
Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table.
*1
Patterns printed on the numeric keys on the machine can be selected directly. For details, refer to “Preset utility stitches” on page B-50.
*2
For free motion quilting, use free motion open toe quilting foot “O” (sold separately with some models).
*3
When (Automatic reverse/reinforcement key) is activated, the stitch will begin with reinforcement stitch.
If (Reinforcement priority) on the settings screen is also set to “ON”, the machine will sew reinforcement stitches at the end of stitching and then stop.
*4
For free motion quilting, use free motion quilting foot “C” (sold separately with some models) or free motion open toe quilting foot “O” (sold separately with some models).
Stitch Setting Chart
Note
• Do not sew reverse stitching when using the walking foot.
Stitch Stitch name
Presser
foot
Applications
Stitch width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch length
[mm (inch)]
Twi n
needle
Reverse/
Reinforce-
ment
stitching
Walking
foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Auto.
Manual
Auto.
Manual
Stitch
number
01
*101*1
Straight stitch (Left)
J
*2
General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc.
0.0 (0)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reverse NO
02
*102*1
Straight stitch (Left)
J
*2
General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc.
0.0 (0)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reverse
*3
OK
03
*103*1
Straight stitch (Middle)
J
*2
General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc.
3.5 (1/8)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reverse NO
04
*104*1
Straight stitch (Middle)
J
*2
General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc.
3.5 (1/8)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reverse
*3
NO
05
*105*1
Triple stretch stitch
J
*2
General sewing for reinforcement and decorative topstitching
0.0 (0)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
06
*106*1
Stem stitch
J
*2
Reinforced stitching, sewing and decorative applications
1.0 (1/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
07 -
Decorative stitch
N
*2
Decorative stitching, top stitching
0.0 (0)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
08 07
Basting stitch
J
*2
Basting
0.0 (0)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
20 (3/4)
5 - 30
(3/16 - 1-3/
16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
09
*108*1
Zigzag stitch
J
*2
For overcasting, mending.
3.5 (1/8)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.0 - 5.0
(0 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reverse NO
10
*109*1
Zigzag stitch
J
*2
For overcasting, mending.
3.5 (1/8)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.0 - 5.0
(0 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reverse
*3
NO
11 10
Zigzag stitch (Right)
J
*2
Start from right needle position, zigzag sew at left.
3.5 (1/8)
2.5 - 5.0
(3/32 - 3/16)
1.4 (1/16)
0.3 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reverse
*3
OK
12 -
Zigzag stitch (Left)
J
*2
Start from left needle position, zigzag sew at right.
3.5 (1/8)
2.5 - 5.0
(3/32 - 3/16)
1.4 (1/16)
0.3 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reverse
*3
NO
Page 53
Stitch Setting Chart
Basic operations B-45
STARTING TO SEW
B
13 11
2 steps elastic zigzag stitch
J
*2
Overcasting (medium weight and stretch fabrics), tape and elastic
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reverse
*3
OK
14
*112*1
3 steps elastic zigzag stitch
J
*2
Overcasting (medium, heavyweight and stretch fabrics), tape and elastic
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reverse
*3
NO
15
*113*1
Overcasting stitch G
Reinforcing of light and medium weight fabrics
3.5 (1/8)
2.5 - 5.0
(3/32 - 3/16)
2.0 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
16 14
Overcasting stitch G
Reinforcing of heavyweight fabric
5.0 (3/16)
2.5 - 5.0
(3/32 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
17 15
Overcasting stitch
G
Reinforcing of medium, heavyweight and easily friable fabrics or decorative stitching.
5.0 (3/16)
3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
18 16
Overcasting stitch
J
*2
Reinforced seaming of stretch fabric
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
19 17
Overcasting stitch
J
*2
Reinforcing of medium stretch fabric and heavyweight fabric, decorative stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
20 18
Overcasting stitch
J
*2
Reinforcement of stretch fabric or decorative stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
4.0 (3/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
21 19
Overcasting stitch
J
*2
Stretch knit seam 5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
4.0 (3/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
22 -
Single diamond overcast stitch
J
*2
Reinforcement and seaming stretch fabric
6.0 (15/64)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
3.0 (1/8)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
23 -
Single diamond overcast stitch
J
*2
Reinforcement of stretch fabric
6.0 (15/64)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.8 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
24 20
With side cutter S
Straight stitch while cutting fabrics
0.0 (0)
0.0 - 2.5
(0 - 3/32)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
25 21
With side cutter S
Zigzag stitch while cutting fabrics
3.5 (1/8)
3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
1.4 (1/16)
0.0 - 5.0 (0 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
26 22
With side cutter S
Overcasting stitch while cutting fabrics
3.5 (1/8)
3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
2.0 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
27 23
With side cutter S
Overcasting stitch while cutting fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
28 24
With side cutter S
Overcasting stitch while cutting fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
29 25
Piecing stitch (Right)
J
*2
Piecework/patchwork
6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) right seam allowance
5.5 (7/32)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reverse
*3
NO
30 26
Piecing stitch (Middle)
J
*4
Piecework/patchwork
2.0 (1/16)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reverse
*3
NO
Stitch Stitch name
Presser
foot
Applications
Stitch width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch length
[mm (inch)]
Twi n
needle
Reverse/
Reinforce-
ment
stitching
Walking
foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Auto.
Manual
Auto.
Manual
Stitch
number
Page 54
Stitch Setting Chart
B-46
31 -
Piecing stitch (Left)
J
*2
Piecework/patchwork
6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) left seam allowance
1.5 (1/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reverse
*3
OK
32 27
Hand-look quilting stitch
J
*2
Quilting stitch made to look like hand quilting stitch
0.0 (0)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
33 28
Quilting appliqué zigzag stitch
J
*2
Zigzag stitch for quilting and sewing on appliqué quilt pieces
3.5 (1/8)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.0 - 5.0
(0 - 3/16)
NO
Reverse
*3
OK
34 29
Quilting appliqué stitch
J
*2
Quilting stitch for invisible appliqué or attaching binding
1.5 (1/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.8 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
35 30
Quilting stippling stitch
J
*2
Background quilting 7.0 (1/4)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
36 31
Blind hem stitch R
Hemming woven fabrics
00
3 - 3
2.0 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
37 32
Blind hem stretch stitch R
Hemming stretch fabric
00
3 - 3
2.0 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
38 33
Blanket stitch
J
Appliqués, decorative blanket stitch
3.5 (1/8)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
39 34
Shell tuck edge stitch
J
*2
Shell tuck edge finish on fabrics
4.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
40 35
Satin scallop stitch
N
*2
Decorating collar of blouse, edge of handkerchief
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.1 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
41 -
Scallop stitch
N
*2
Decorating collar of blouse, edge of handkerchief
7.0 (1/4)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.4 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
42 36
Patchw ork joi n stitch
J
*2
Patchwork stitches, decorative stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.2 (1/16)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
43 37
Patchwork double overlock stitch
J
*2
Patchwork stitches, decorative stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
44 38
Couching stitch
J
*2
Decorative stitching, attaching cord and couching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.2 (1/16)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
45 39
Smocking stitch
J
*2
Smocking, decorative stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
46 40
Feather stitch
J
*2
Fagoting, decorative stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
47 41
Fagoting cross stitch
J
*2
Fagoting, bridging and decorative stitching
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
48 42
Tape attaching stitch
J
*2
Attaching tape to seam in stretch fabric
4.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
49 43
Ladder stitch
J
*2
Decorative stitching 4.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
3.0 (1/8)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
Stitch Stitch name
Presser
foot
Applications
Stitch width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch length
[mm (inch)]
Twi n
needle
Reverse/
Reinforce-
ment
stitching
Walking
foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Auto.
Manual
Auto.
Manual
Stitch
number
Page 55
Stitch Setting Chart
Basic operations B-47
STARTING TO SEW
B
50 44
Rick-rack stitch
J
*2
Decorative top stitching
4.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
51 45
Decorative stitch
J
*2
Decorative stitching 5.5 (7/32)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
52 46
Serpentine stitch
N
*2
Decorative stitching and attaching elastic
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
53 -
Decorative stitch
N
*2
Decorative stitching and appliqué
6.0 (15/64)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.0 (1/16)
0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
54 -
Decorative stippling stitch
N
*2
Decorative stitching 7.0 (1/4)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
55 -
Hemstitching
N
*2
Decorative hems, triple straight at left
1.0 (1/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
56 -
Hemstitching
N
*2
Decorative hems, triple straight at center
3.5 (1/8)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
57 47
Hemstitching zigzag
N
*2
Decorative hems, top stitching
6.0 (15/64)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
3.0 (1/8)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
58 48
Hemstitching
N
*2
Decorative hems, lace attaching pin stitch
3.5 (1/8)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
59 49
Hemstitching
N
*2
Decorative hems 3.0 (1/8)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
3.5 (1/8)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
60 50
Hemstitching
N
*2
Decorative hems daisy stitch
6.0 (15/64)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
3.0 (1/8)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
61 -
Hemstitching
N
*2
Heirloom, decorative hems
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
3.5 (1/8)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
62 51
Hemstitching
N
*2
Heirloom, decorative hems
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
3.5 (1/8)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
63 -
Hemstitching
N
*2
Heirloom, decorative hems
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
3.5 (1/8)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
64 52
Hemstitching
N
*2
Heirloom, decorative hems
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
4.0 (3/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
65 -
Hemstitching
N
*2
Heirloom, decorative hems
4.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
66 -
Honeycomb stitch
N
*2
Heirloom, decorative hems
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
67 -
Honeycomb stitch
N
*2
Heirloom, decorative hems
6.0 (15/64)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
3.5 (1/8)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
68 53
Hemstitching
N
*2
Heirloom, decorative hems
6.0 (15/64)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK ( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
Stitch Stitch name
Presser
foot
Applications
Stitch width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch length
[mm (inch)]
Twi n
needle
Reverse/
Reinforce-
ment
stitching
Walking
foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Auto.
Manual
Auto.
Manual
Stitch
number
Page 56
Stitch Setting Chart
B-48
69 54
Hemstitching
N
*2
Heirloom, decorative hems
6.0 (15/64)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
3.0 (1/8)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
70 -
Hemstitching
N
*2
Heirloom, decorative hems
6.0 (15/64)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
4.0 (3/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
71 55
Hemstitching
N
*2
Heirloom, decorative hems
4.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.5 (3/32)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
72 56
Hemstitching
N
*2
Heirloom, decorative hems
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
73 -
Hemstitching
N
*2
Decorative hems and bridging stitch
6.0 (15/64)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
74 -
Hemstitching
N
*2
Decorative hems. Fagoting, attaching ribbon
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
3.0 (1/8)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
OK
( J )
Reinforce-
ment
NO
75 -
Hemstitching
N
*2
Decorative hems, smocking
6.0 (15/64)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
76 -
Hemstitching
N
*2
Decorative hems, smocking
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)
1.6 (1/16)
0.4 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
77 57
Narrow rounded buttonhole stitch
A
Buttonhole on light to medium weight fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
3.0 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
0.4 (1/64)
0.2 - 1.0
(1/64 - 1/16)
NO
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
NO
78 58
Tapered round ended buttonhole stitch
A
Reinforced waist tapered buttonholes
5.0 (3/16)
3.0 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
0.4 (1/64)
0.2 - 1.0
(1/64 - 1/16)
NO
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
NO
79 59
Round ended buttonhole stitch
A
Buttonholes with vertical bar tack in heavyweight fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
3.0 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
0.4 (1/64)
0.2 - 1.0
(1/64 - 1/16)
NO
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
NO
80 60
Narrow squared buttonhole stitch
A
Buttonholes for light to medium weight fabrics
5.0 (3/16)
3.0 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16)
0.4 (1/64)
0.2 - 1.0
(1/64 - 1/16)
NO
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
NO
81 61
Stretch buttonhole stitch
A
Buttonholes for stretch or woven fabrics
6.0 (15/64)
3.0 - 6.0
(1/8 - 15/64)
1.0 (1/16)
0.5 - 2.0
(1/32 - 1/16)
NO
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
NO
82 62
Heirloom buttonhole stitch
A
Buttonholes for heirloom and stretch fabrics
6.0 (15/64)
3.0 - 6.0
(1/8 - 15/64)
1.5 (1/16)
1.0 - 3.0
(1/16 - 1/8)
NO
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
NO
83 63
Bound buttonhole stitch
A
The first step in making bound buttonholes
5.0 (3/16)
0.0 - 6.0
(0 - 15/64)
2.0 (1/16)
0.2 - 4.0
(1/64 - 3/16)
NO
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
NO
84 64
Keyhole buttonhole stitch
A
Buttonholes in heavyweight or thick fabrics for larger flat buttons
7.0 (1/4)
3.0 - 7.0
(1/8 - 1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.3 - 1.0
(1/64 - 1/16)
NO
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
NO
85 65
Tapered keyhole buttonhole stitch
A
Buttonholes in medium to heavy weight fabrics for larger flat buttons
7.0 (1/4)
3.0 - 7.0
(1/8 - 1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.3 - 1.0
(1/64 - 1/16)
NO
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
NO
Stitch Stitch name
Presser
foot
Applications
Stitch width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch length
[mm (inch)]
Twi n
needle
Reverse/
Reinforce-
ment
stitching
Walking
foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Auto.
Manual
Auto.
Manual
Stitch
number
Page 57
Stitch Setting Chart
Basic operations B-49
STARTING TO SEW
B
86 66
Keyhole buttonhole stitch A
Buttonholes with vertical bar tack for reinforcement in heavyweight or thick fabrics
7.0 (1/4)
3.0 - 7.0
(1/8 - 1/4)
0.5 (1/32)
0.3 - 1.0
(1/64 - 1/16)
NO
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
NO
87 67
Darning stitch
A
Darning of medium weight fabric
7.0 (1/4)
2.5 - 7.0
(3/32 - 1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.4 - 2.5
(1/64 - 3/32)
NO
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
NO
88 68
Darning stitch
A
Darning of heavyweight fabric
7.0 (1/4)
2.5 - 7.0
(3/32 - 1/4)
2.0 (1/16)
0.4 - 2.5
(1/64 - 3/32)
NO
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
NO
89 69
Bar tack stitch
A
Reinforcement at opening of pocket, etc.
2.0 (1/16)
1.0 - 3.0
(1/16 - 1/8)
0.4 (1/64)
0.3 - 1.0
(1/64 - 1/16)
NO
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
NO
90 70
Button sewing stitch M
Attaching buttons 3.5 (1/8)
2.5 - 4.5
(3/32 - 3/16)
NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
91 71
Eyelet stitch
N
For making eyelets, holes on belts, etc.
7.0 (1/4)
7.0 6.0 5.0 (1/4 15/64
3/16)
7.0 (1/4)
7.0 6.0 5.0 (1/4 15/64
3/16)
NO
Automatic
reinforce-
ment
NO
92 -
Reverse (Straight stitch)
N
For attaching appliqué on tubular pieces of fabric and mitering corners
——NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
93 -
Sideways to left (Straight stitch)
N
For attaching appliqué on tubular pieces of fabric
——NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
94 -
Sideways to right (Straight stitch)
N
For attaching appliqué on tubular pieces of fabric
——NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
95 -
Forw ard (Straight stitch)
N
For attaching appliqué on tubular pieces of fabric and mitering corners
——NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
96 -
Sideways to left (Zigzag stitch)
N
For attaching appliqué on tubular pieces of fabric
——NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
97 -
Sideways to right (Zigzag stitch)
N
For attaching appliqué on tubular pieces of fabric
——NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
98 -
Forw ard (Zigzag stitch)
N
For attaching appliqué on tubular pieces of fabric and mitering corners
——NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
99 -
Reverse (Zigzag stitch)
N
For attaching appliqué on tubular pieces of fabric and mitering corners
——NO
Reinforce-
ment
NO
Stitch Stitch name
Presser
foot
Applications
Stitch width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch length
[mm (inch)]
Twi n
needle
Reverse/
Reinforce-
ment
stitching
Walking
foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Auto.
Manual
Auto.
Manual
Stitch
number
Page 58
Stitch Setting Chart
B-50
Preset utility stitches
The most frequently used utility stitches have been assigned to the numeric keys. These stitches can be selected simply by pressing the designated key while in the preset utility stitch mode.
Stitch name
Preset utility
stitches
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Stitch number
Straight stitch (Left)
01 01
Straight stitch (Left)
02 02
Straight stitch (Middle)
03 03
Straight stitch (Middle)
04 04
Zigzag stitch
09 08
Zigzag stitch
10 09
Triple stretch stitch
05 05
Stem stitch
06 06
Overcasting stitch
15 13
3 steps elastic zigzag stitch
14 12
Page 59
Sewing
This section describes procedures for using the various utility stitches as well as other functions. It provides details on basic sewing in addition to the more expressive features of the machine, such as sewing tubular pieces and buttonholes. Page number starts with “S” in this section.
Chapter1 SEWING ATTRACTIVE FINISHES......................... S-2
Chapter2 UTILITY STITCHES................................................... S-6
CAUTION
• Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to press (Presser foot/Needle exchange key) on the operation panel to lock all keys and buttons, otherwise injuries may occur if the “Start/Stop” button or any other button is pressed and the machine starts. For details on changing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the Presser Foot” in the “Basic operations” section.
Page 60
Sewing Tips
S-2
Trial sewing
After you have set up the machine with the thread and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn, the machine automatically sets the stitch length and width for the stitch that is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be achieved.
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn, perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project.
Changing the sewing direction
a
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the machine.
Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle
remains up when the machine stops sewing, press (Needle position button) to lower the needle.
b
Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the fabric.
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.
c
Lower the presser foot lever and continue sewing.
Sewing curves
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve. For details on sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to “Sewing an even seam allowance” on page S-3.
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch.
Sewing cylindrical pieces
Removing the flat bed attachment allows for free-arm sewing, making it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs and pant legs.
a
Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.
b
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the free arm, and then sew from the top.
c
When you are finished with free arm sewing, install the flat bed attachment back in its original position.
Chapter 1
SEWING ATTRACTIVE FINISHES
Sewing Tips
Page 61
Sewing Tips
Sewing S-3
SEWING ATTRACTIVE FINISHES
S
Sewing an even seam allowance
To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.
Aligning the fabric with the presser foot
Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.
1 Seam 2 Presser foot
Aligning the fabric with the stitch guide foot (sold separately with some models)
Sew while keeping the right edge of the fabric aligned with a desired position of markings on the stitch guide foot.
1 Seam 2 Stitch guide foot 3 Markings
Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking
The markings on the needle plate show the distance from the needle position of a seam sewn with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with a marking on the needle plate. The distance between the markings in the upper scale is 1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).
For stitches with a left needle position (Stitch width: 0.0 mm)
1 Seam 2 Presser foot 3 Centimeters 4 Inches 5 Needle plate 6 1.6 cm (5/8 inch)
1
2
1
2
3
Page 62
Sewing Various Fabrics
S-4
Sewing thick fabrics
If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position.
If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed at the beginning of stitching
The fabric may not feed when thick seams are being sewn and the presser foot is not level, as shown below. In this case, use the presser foot locking pin (black button on the left side of zigzag foot “J” so that the presser foot remains level while sewing, allowing the fabric to be fed smoothly.
1 Sewing direction
a
Raise the presser foot lever.
b
Align the beginning of stitching, and then position the fabric.
c
While holding zigzag foot “J” level, hold the presser foot locking pin (black button on the left side) pressed in, and lower the presser foot lever.
1 Presser foot holding pin (black button)
d
Release the presser foot locking pin (black button).
The presser foot remains level, allowing the fabric to
be fed.
After the seam is sewn, the presser foot will return to
its original angle.
Sewing thin fabrics
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. Move the needle (be sure to use a fine needle) to the furthest left or right hand position so that the fabric does not get pulled down into the feed dog area. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.
1 Stabilizer material or paper
Sewing Various Fabrics
a
1
Memo
• You may find adjusting the “Presser Foot Pressure” in the settings screen helpful on some thick fabrics.
• (For models equipped with Automatic Fabric Sensor System) When “Automatic Fabric Sensor System” in the settings screen is set to “ON”, the thickness of the fabric is automatically detected by the internal sensor so the fabric can be fed smoothly for best sewing results. For details on the automatic fabric sensor system, refer to “Automatic Fabric Sensor System (Automatic presser foot pressure)” in the “Basic operations” section.
CAUTION
• If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force, the needle may bend or break.
1
Page 63
Sewing Various Fabrics
Sewing S-5
SEWING ATTRACTIVE FINISHES
S
Sewing stretch fabrics
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric.
1 Basting
For best results when sewing on knit fabrics use the stretch stitches. Also be sure to use a needle for knits. The recommended stitches and their stitch numbers are indicated below.
* Stitch patterns can be selected directly by pressing the
numeric keys on the machine during preset utility stitch mode. Refer to “Basic operations” section.
Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics
When sewing fabrics that may stick to the presser foot such as leathers or coated fabrics, change the presser foot to the non stick foot*. The walking foot* is also suitable for sewing some leathers or vinyl fabrics.
* Sold separately with some models.
1 Leather
Sewing hook-and-loop fastener tape
Make sure that the needle passes through the hook-and-loop fastener tape by turning the handwheel and lower the needle into the hook-and-loop fastener tape before sewing. And then, sew the edge of the hook-and-loop fastener tape at a slow speed.
If the needle does not pass through the hook-and-loop fastener tape, replace the needle with the needle size for thicker fabrics. For details, refer to “Fabric/thread/needle combinations” in the “Basic operations” section.
1 Edge of the hook-and-loop fastener tape
Stitch
BLMAV 1-05 1-06 1-13 1-14 2-13
BLMSP/BLMLR
05
* 06*
13
14
*
48
BL210A
05
* 06*
11
12
*
42
Note
• The walking foot can only be used with straight or zigzag stitch patterns with reinforcement stitches. For details, refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” in the “Basic operations” section.
• When using the walking foot, test sew on a scrap piece of leather or vinyl that is to be used in project to make sure foot does not leave any marks.
1
1
CAUTION
• Use only the adhesive-free hook-and-loop fastener tape which is designed for sewing. When the glue adheres to the needle or the bobbin hook race, it may cause malfunction.
• If the hook-and-loop fastener tape is sewn with the thin needle (65/9-75/11), the needle may bend or break.
Note
• Before sewing, baste together the fabric and the
hook-and-loop fastener tape.
Page 64
Basic Stitching
S-6
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams.
• Using the table below, refer to “Using the utility stitch tables in the “Sewing” section” in the “Basic operations” section.
* Stitch patterns can be selected directly by pressing the
numeric keys on the machine during preset utility stitch mode. Refer to “Basic operations” section.
Basting
Sew basting with a stitch length between 5 mm (3/16 inch) and 30 mm (1-3/16 inches).
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select stitch .
c
Start sewing.
Basic stitching
a
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.
b
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
Select a stitch.
d
Lower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.
e
Lower the presser foot lever, and then start sewing.
f
When sewing is finished, cut the thread.
Chapter 2
UTILITY STITCHES
Basic Stitching
Stitch name Stitch
BLMAV
Presser foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Stitch number
Basting stitch 1-08 08 07
J
Straight stitch (Left)
1-01
01
* 01*
1-02
02
* 02*
Straight stitch (Middle) 1-03
03
* 03*
Straight stitch (Middle) 1-04
04* 04*
Triple stretch stitch 1-05
05
* 05*
J
J
Page 65
Basic Stitching
Sewing S-7
UTILITY STITCHES
S
Changing the needle position
The needle position used as the baseline is different for the straight stitch (left needle position) and the straight stitch (center needle position).
1 Straight stitch (left needle position) 2 Straight stitch (center needle position)
When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left needle position) is set to its standard setting (0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm (1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between 0 and 7.0 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will also change. By changing the stitch width and sewing with the right side of the presser foot aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam allowance can be sewn with a fixed width.
1 Stitch width setting 2 Distance from the needle position to the right side of the
presser foot
3 12.0 mm (1/2 inch) 4 10.0 mm (3/8 inch) 5 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) 6 5.0 mm (3/16 inch)
• For details, refer to “Setting the stitch width” in the “Basic operations” section.
12
0.0 2.0 5.5 7.0
34 5
6
1
2
Page 66
Blind Hem Stitching
S-8
Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem.
• Using the table below, refer to “Using the utility stitch tables in the “Sewing” section” in the “Basic operations” section.
a
Turn the skirt or pants wrong side out.
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric 3 Edge of fabric 4 Bottom side
b
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the hem, and press.
c
Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5 mm (3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric, and then baste it.
d
Fold back the fabric inside along the basting.
e
Unfold the edge of fabric, and position the fabric with the wrong side facing up.
f
Attach blind hem foot “R”.
g
Select or .
h
Remove the flat bed attachment to use the free arm.
Blind Hem Stitching
Stitch name Stitch
BLMAV
Presser foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Stitch number
Blind hem stitch 2-01 36 31
R
Blind hem stretch
stitch
2-02 37 32
Memo
• When the size of cylindrical pieces is too small to slide onto the arm or the length is too short, the fabric will not feed and desired results may not be achieved.
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of Fabric 3 Edge of fabric 4 Desired edge of hem
<Thick fabric>
<Normal fabric>
<Seen from the side>
2
1
3
1
2
1
2
1
3
3
4
2
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric 3 Edge of fabric 4 Desired edge of hem 5 5 mm (3/16 inch) 6 Basting
<Thick fabric>
<Normal fabric>
<Seen from the side>
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric 3 Edge of fabric 4 Desired edge of hem 5 5 mm (3/16 inch) 6 Basting 7 Basting point
<Thick fabric>
<Normal fabric>
<Seen from the side>
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric 3 Edge of fabric 4 Desired edge of hem 5 Basting point 6 Basting
<Thick fabric>
<Normal fabric>
<Seen from the side>
1
2
1
2
3
5
6
4
1
2
1
3
6
5
1
1
2
7
4
5
1
1
1
1
1
2
6
3
4
Page 67
Blind Hem Stitching
Sewing S-9
UTILITY STITCHES
S
i
Slide the item that you wish to sew onto the free arm, make sure that the fabric feeds correctly, and then start sewing.
1 Free arm
j
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded hem against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Fold of hem 3 Guide
k
Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.
1 Needle drop point
When you change the needle drop point, raise the needle, and then change the stitch width.
1 Thick fabric 2 Normal fabric
If the needle catches too much of the hem fold
The needle is too far to the left. Decrease the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.
Example: Thick fabric
Example: Normal fabric
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric
If the needle does not catch the hem fold
The needle is too far to the right. Increase the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem.
Example: Thick fabric
Memo
• Blind hem stitches cannot be sewn if the left needle drop point does not catch the fold. If the needle catches too much of the fold, the fabric cannot be unfolded and the seam appearing on the right side of the fabric will be very large, leaving an unattractive finish. If you experience either of these cases, perform the following instructions to solve the problem.
1
2
Page 68
Blind Hem Stitching
S-10
Example: Normal fabric
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric
l
Sew with the fold of the hem against the presser foot guide.
m
Press the “Start/Stop” button to stop sewing when you are finished, and raise the presser foot and needle to remove the fabric by pulling it back.
n
Remove the basting stitching and reverse the fabric.
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric
Note
• Be sure to pull the fabric backward after finished sewing. If you pull the fabric toward side or forward, the presser foot may be damaged.
1
2
Page 69
Overcasting Stitches
Sewing S-11
UTILITY STITCHES
S
Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying.
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”
• Using the table below, refer to “Using the utility stitch tables in the “Sewing” section” in the “Basic operations” section.
* Stitch patterns can be selected directly by pressing the
numeric keys on the machine during preset utility stitch mode. Refer to “Basic operations” section.
a
Attach overcasting foot “G”.
b
Select a stitch.
c
Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.
1 Guide
d
Sew with the edge of the fabric against the presser foot guide.
1 Needle drop point
e
Press the “Start/Stop” button to stop sewing when you are finished, and raise the presser foot and needle to remove the fabric by pulling it back.
Overcasting Stitches
Stitch name Stitch
BLMAV
Presser foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Stitch number
Overcasting stitch
1-15
15
* 13*
G1-16 16 14
1-17 17 15
G
a
CAUTION
• After the stitch width is adjusted, rotate the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise). Check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may break and cause injury.
1 The needle should not touch the center bar
• If the presser foot is raised to its highest level, the needle may strike the presser foot.
1
Page 70
Overcasting Stitches
S-12
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”
• Using the table below, refer to “Using the utility stitch tables in the “Sewing” section” in the “Basic operations” section.
* Stitch patterns can be selected directly by pressing the
numeric keys on the machine during preset utility stitch mode. Refer to “Basic operations” section.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select a stitch.
c
Sew along the edge of the fabric with the needle dropping off the edge at the right.
1 Needle drop point
1 Needle drop point
Sewing overcasting stitches using the side cutter (sold separately with some models)
Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Five utility stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.
• Using the table below, refer to “Using the utility stitch tables in the “Sewing” section” in the “Basic operations” section.
Side cutter
Stitch name Stitch
BLMAV
Presser foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Stitch number
Zigzag stitch 1-09
09
* 08*
J
Zigzag stitch (Right) 1-11 11 10
2 steps elastic zigzag
stitch
1-13 13 11
3 steps elastic zigzag
stitch
1-14
14
* 12*
Overcasting stitch
1-18 18 16
1-19 19 17
1-20 20 18
1-21 21 19
Single diamond
overcast stitch
1-22 22
1-23 23
J
a
Note
• Thread the needle manually when using the side cutter, or only attach the side cutter after threading the needle using the needle threader.
Stitch name Stitch
BLMAV
Presser foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Stitch number
With side cutter
1-24 24 20
S
1-25 25 21
1-26 26 22
1-27 27 23
1-28 28 24
1
Page 71
Overcasting Stitches
Sewing S-13
UTILITY STITCHES
S
a
Remove the presser foot.
b
Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter onto the needle clamp screw.
1 Connecting fork 2 Needle clamp screw
c
Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin is aligned with the notch in the presser foot holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot lever.
1 Notch in presser foot holder 2 Pin
d
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the side cutter is securely attached.
e
Pass the upper thread under the side cutter, and then pull it out toward the rear of the machine.
f
Select a stitch.
g
Make a cut of about 2 cm (3/4 inch) long in the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.
1 2 cm (3/4 inch)
h
Position the fabric in the side cutter.
The cut in the fabric should be positioned over the guide plate of the side cutter.
1 Guide plate
• If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the fabric will not be cut.
i
Lower the presser foot lever, and then start sewing.
A seam allowance is cut while the stitching is sewn.
• If the stitching is sewn in a straight line , the seam
allowance will be about 5 mm (3/16 inch).
1 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Note
• When it is hard to set under the presser foot holder, fit the pin on the side cutter into the notch of the presser foot holder raising up the presser foot lever higher.
b
a
b
a
Memo
• The side cutter can cut as much as one layer of 13-oz. denim.
• After using the side cutter, clean it by removing any lint or dust.
• If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric, use a piece of cloth to apply a small amount of oil to the cutting edge of the cutter.
1
a
1
Page 72
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
S-14
• Using the table below, refer to “Using the utility stitch tables in the “Sewing” section” in the “Basic operations” section.
Buttonhole sewing
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button).
Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
1 Reinforcement stitching
The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is used to create buttonholes, are indicated below.
1 Button guide plate 2 Presser foot scale 3 Pin 4 Marks on buttonhole foot 5 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
Stitch name Stitch
BLMAV
Presser foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Stitch number
Narrow rounded
buttonhole stitch
4-01 77 57
A
Tapered round ended
buttonhole stitch
4-02 78 58
Round ended
buttonhole stitch
4-03 79 59
Narrow squared
buttonhole stitch
4-04 80 60
Stretch buttonhole
stitch
4-05 81 61
Heirloom buttonhole
stitch
4-06 82 62
Bound buttonhole
stitch
4-07 83 63
Keyhole buttonhole
stitch
4-08 84 64
Tapered keyhole
buttonhole stitch
4-09 85 65
Keyhole buttonhole
stitch
4-10 86 66
Button sewing stitch 4-14 90 70 M
5
2
1
3
4
A
Page 73
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
Sewing S-15
UTILITY STITCHES
S
a
Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position and length of the buttonhole.
1 Marks on fabric 2 Buttonhole sewing
b
Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole foot “A”, and then insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole.
If the button does not fit in the button guide plate
Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
1 Presser foot scale 2 Length of buttonhole (diameter + thickness of button) 3 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.
1 10 mm (3/8 inch) 2 15 mm (9/16 inch)
The size of the buttonhole is set.
c
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
d
Select a stitch.
e
Position the fabric with the front end of the buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.
1 Mark on fabric (front) 2 Red marks on buttonhole foot
Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot.
1 Do not reduce the gap.
f
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as possible.
1 Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.
1 Buttonhole lever 2 Bracket
1
2
3
2
1
2
1
A
1
2
a
a
2
1
Page 74
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
S-16
g
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left hand, and then start sewing.
Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.
h
Press (Thread cutter button) once.
Raise the presser foot, and then remove the fabric.
i
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original position.
j
Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent the stitching from being cut.
1 Pin
k
Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and open the buttonhole.
1 Seam ripper
For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut open the buttonhole.
1 Eyelet punch
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric.
Changing the density of the stitching
Adjust the stitch length.
• For details, refer to “Setting the stitch length” in the “Basic operations” section.
• If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is too thick), decrease the density of the stitching.
Changing the stitch width
Adjust the stitch width.
• For details, refer to “Setting the stitch width” in the “Basic operations” section.
Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread.
Memo
• If the automatic thread cutting setting was selected before sewing, the machine will automatically cut the threads at the end of the stitching. For details, refer to “Automatically cutting the thread” in the “Basic operations” section.
• When using the thread cutter on the left side of the machine or scissors to cut the threads, press
(Needle position button) to raise the needle, raise the presser foot, and then pull out the fabric before cutting the threads.
1
1
CAUTION
• When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting direction, otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips.
• Do not use the seam ripper in any other way than how it is intended.
Memo
• Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch
length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.
1
Page 75
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
Sewing S-17
UTILITY STITCHES
S
a
Hook the gimp thread onto the part of buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration.
b
It fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it.
c
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
d
Select stitch or .
e
Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the gimp thread.
f
Lower the presser foot lever and the buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.
g
When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp thread to remove any slack.
h
Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it.
Button sewing
Buttons can be sewn on with the machine. Buttons with two or with four holes can be attached.
a
Measure the distance between the holes in the button to be attached.
b
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the feed dog position switch, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to (to the left as seen from the rear of the machine).
1 Feed dog position switch (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
c
Attach button fitting foot “M”.
d
Select stitch .
• Since the end of the thread will be tied off later, do not set the machine for programmed-thread cutting.
e
Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as the distance between the holes in the button.
f
Place the button in the position where it will be sewn, and lower the presser foot lever.
1 Button
• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the machine, and then sew them in the same way.
a
a
Page 76
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
S-18
g
Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to check that the needle correctly goes into the two holes of the button.
If it seems as if the needle will hit the button, remeasure the distance between the holes in the button. Adjust the stitch width to the distance between the buttonholes.
h
Start sewing.
Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so that the speed will be slow).
The machine automatically stops after sewing
reinforcement stitches.
• Do not press (Thread cutter button).
i
Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.
Pull the upper thread at the end of the stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it with the bobbin thread.
j
When you are finished attaching the button, slide the feed dog position switch, to (to the right as seen from the rear of the machine) and turn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.
Attaching a shank to a button
To sew the button with a shank, attach the button with space between it and the fabric, and then wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button securely.
a
Place the button into button fitting foot “M”, and then pull the shank lever toward you.
1 Shank lever
b
After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread with plenty of excess, wind it around the thread between the button and the fabric, and then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning of the stitching.
Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at the end and at the beginning of the stitching at the wrong side of the fabric.
c
Cut off any excess thread.
CAUTION
• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the button, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
Memo
• The feed dogs come up when you start sewing
again.
1
Page 77
Zipper Insertion
Sewing S-19
UTILITY STITCHES
S
• Using the table below, refer to “Using the utility stitch tables in the “Sewing” section” in the “Basic operations” section.
* Stitch patterns can be selected directly by pressing the
numeric keys on the machine during preset utility stitch mode. Refer to “Basic operations” section.
Inserting a centered zipper
Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted against each other.
1 Right side of fabric 2 Stitching 3 End of zipper opening
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening.
With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.
c
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the edge of the fabric.
1 Basting stitching 2 Reverse stitches 3 Wrong side of fabric 4 End of zipper opening
d
Press open the seam allowance from the wrong side of the fabric.
1 Wrong side of fabric
e
Align the seam with the center of the zipper, and then baste the zipper in place.
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Basting stitching 3 Zipper
f
Remove about 5 cm (2 inches) from the end of the basting on the outside.
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Zipper basting 3 Outside basting 4 5 cm (2 inches)
g
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin of zipper foot “I”.
1 Pin on the right side 2 Needle drop point
Zipper Insertion
Stitch name Stitch
BLMAV
Presser foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Stitch number
Straight stitch (Middle) 1-03
03
* 03*
J, I
1
2
3
1
2
3
4
1
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
2
1
I
Page 78
Zipper Insertion
S-20
h
Select stitch .
i
Topstitch around the zipper.
1 Stitching 2 Right side of fabric 3 Basting stitching 4 End of zipper opening
j
Remove the basting stitching.
Inserting a side zipper
Stitching is visible on only one piece of fabric. Use this type of zipper application for side openings and back openings.
1 Stitching 2 Right side of fabric 3 End of zipper opening
The following procedure will describe how to stitch on the left side, as shown in the illustration.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Sew straight stitches up to the zipper opening.
With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening.
c
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the edge of the fabric.
1 Basting stitching 2 Reverse stitches 3 Wrong side of fabric 4 End of zipper opening
d
Press open the seam allowance from the wrong side of the fabric.
1 Wrong side of fabric
CAUTION
• When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the handwheel toward
you
(
counterclockwise)
to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
CAUTION
• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
1
2
3
4
1
Page 79
Zipper Insertion
Sewing S-21
UTILITY STITCHES
S
e
Press the seam allowance so that the right side (the side that will not be stitched) has an extra 3 mm (1/8 inch).
1 Wrong side of fabric 2 3 mm (1/8 inch)
f
Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), and then baste or pin the zipper in place.
1 Zipper teeth 2 Basting stitching
g
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin of zipper foot “I”.
If the stitching will be sewn on the right side, attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of the zipper foot.
1 Pin on the right side 2 Needle drop point
h
Select stitch .
i
Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base of the zipper.
j
When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the end of the zipper, stop the machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise the presser foot lever.
k
Open the zipper and continue sewing.
l
Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric.
1 Basting stitching
m
Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin of zipper foot “I”.
If the presser foot holder was attached to the right pin in
step
g, change it to the left pin.
1 Pin on the left side 2 Needle drop point
CAUTION
• When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to select
the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the handwheel toward you (
counterclockwise)
to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
1
2
2
1
2
1
I
CAUTION
• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
1
I
1
2
Page 80
Zipper Insertion
S-22
n
Topstitch around the zipper.
Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper opening and align the zipper teeth with the side of the presser foot.
1 Right side of fabric 2 End of zipper opening 3 Reverse stitches 4 Beginning of stitching 5 Basting stitching
o
When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the end of the zipper, stop the machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and then raise the presser foot lever.
p
Remove the basting stitching, open the zipper, and then continue sewing.
CAUTION
• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
1
2
3
4
5
Page 81
Zipper/piping Insertion
Sewing S-23
UTILITY STITCHES
S
A zipper and piping can be sewn in place.
• Using the table below, refer to “Using the utility stitch tables in the “Sewing” section” in the “Basic operations” section.
* Stitch patterns can be selected directly by pressing the
numeric keys on the machine during preset utility stitch mode. Refer to “Basic operations” section.
**Adjustable zipper/piping foot (sold separately with some
models)
Inserting a centered zipper
a
Refer to step af of “Inserting a centered zipper” on page S-19.
b
Remove the presser foot and presser foot holder to attach the screw-on adjustable zipper/piping foot (sold separately with some models).
• For details on removing the presser foot holder, refer to “Removing and attaching the presser foot holder” in the “Basic operations” section.
c
Select stitch .
d
Loosen the positioning screw on the back of the presser foot.
1 Positioning screw
e
Slide the presser foot over either the left or right feed dog.
f
Change the needle position so that the needle does not touch the presser foot.
For details, refer to “Setting the stitch width” in the “Basic operations” section.
1 Needle drop point
g
Securely tighten the positioning screw.
1 Positioning screw
Zipper/piping Insertion
Stitch name Stitch
BLMAV
Presser foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Stitch number
Straight stitch (Left) 1-01
01
* 01***
Note
• Make sure that the thread between the spool and the bobbin is pulled tight.
1
CAUTION
• After adjusting the needle position, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) and check the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
Left sewing position
Right sewing position
1
1
Page 82
Zipper/piping Insertion
S-24
h
Topstitch around the zipper.
1 Stitching 2 Right side of fabric 3 Basting stitching 4 End of zipper opening
i
Remove the basting stitching.
Inserting a piping
a
Place the piping between two fabrics inside out, as shown below.
1 Fabric 2 Piping 3 Fabric
b
Refer to the steps of attaching the adjustable zipper/ piping foot on the previous page.
c
Sew along the piping.
d
After sewing, turn them over.
CAUTION
• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
Page 83
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape
Sewing S-25
UTILITY STITCHES
S
• Using the table below, refer to “Using the utility stitch tables in the “Sewing” section” in the “Basic operations” section.
* Stitch patterns can be selected directly by pressing the
numeric keys on the machine during preset utility stitch mode. Refer to “Basic operations” section.
Stretch stitching
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select stitch .
c
Sew the fabric without stretching it.
Elastic attaching
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
a
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the fabric.
Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric.
1 Elastic tape 2 Pin
b
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
Select a stitch.
d
Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while stretching the tape so that it is the same length as the fabric.
While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand.
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape
Stitch name Stitch
BLMAV
Presser foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Stitch number
Stem stitch 1-06
06
* 06*
J
2 steps elastic zigzag
stitch
1-13
13 11
3 steps elastic zigzag
stitch
1-14
14
* 12*
Tape attaching stitch 2-13 48 42
J
CAUTION
• When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may bend or break.
1
2
J
Page 84
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
S-26
• Using the table below, refer to “Using the utility stitch tables in the “Sewing” section” in the “Basic operations” section.
* Stitch patterns can be selected directly by pressing the
numeric keys on the machine during preset utility stitch mode. Refer to “Basic operations” section.
Appliqué stitching
a
Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam allowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and 3/16 inch).
1 Seam allowance
b
Place a pattern made of thick paper or stabilizer on the back of the appliqué, and then fold over the seam allowance using an iron.
c
Turn the fabric over, and then baste or fuse it onto the fabric that it will be attached to.
1 Basting stitching
d
Attach the zigzag foot “J” or the open toe foot (sold Separately with some models) shown below.
e
Select a stitch.
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
Stitch name Stitch
BLMAV
Presser foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Stitch number
Zigzag stitch 1-09
09
* 08*
J
Quilting appliqué
zigzag stitch
1-33 33 28
Blanket stitch 2-03 38 33
Quilting appliqué
stitch
1-34 34 29
Piecing stitch (Right) 1-29 29 25
Piecing stitch (Middle) 1-30 30 26
Piecing stitch (Left) 1-31 31
Patchwork join stitch 2-07 42 36
Patchwork double
overlock stitch
2-08 43 37
Couching stitch 2-09 44 38
Hand-look quilting
stitch
1-32 32 27
Quilting stippling
stitch
1-35 35 30
Memo
• Patterns showing a “Q” in the table above are for quilting and those showing a “P” are for piecing.
Zigzag foot “J” Open toe foot
1
1
J
Page 85
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
Sewing S-27
UTILITY STITCHES
S
f
Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise), and then begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué, making sure that the needle drops just outside of the appliqué.
When sewing around corners, stop the machine with the needle in the fabric just outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to change the sewing direction.
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching
a
Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and place it over the lower piece.
b
Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the pattern spans over both pieces.
Piecing
Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called “piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance.
Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
a
Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the fabric that you wish to piece together.
b
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
Select stitch or .
d
Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned with the edge of the fabric.
For a seam allowance on the right side
Align the right side of the presser foot with the edge of the
fabric, and sew using stitch .
1 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
For a seam allowance on the left side
Align the left side of the presser foot with the edge of the
fabric, and sew using stitch .
1 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
Memo
• To change the width of the seam allowance (needle position), adjust the stitch width. For details, refer to “Setting the stitch width” in the “Basic operations” section.
J
1
1
Page 86
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
S-28
Piecing using the 1/4" quilting foot with guide (sold separately with some models)
This quilting foot can sew an accurate 1/4 inch or 1/8 inch seam allowance. It can be used for piecing together a quilt or for topstitching.
a
Press , and then attach the 1/4” quilting foot with
guide.
b
Use the guide and marks on the presser foot to sew accurate seam allowances.
Piecing a 1/4 inch seam allowance
Sew keeping the edge of the fabrics against the guide.
1 Guide 2 1/4 inch
Creating an accurate seam allowance
Use the mark on the foot to begin, end, or pivot 1/4 inch from edge of fabric.
1 Align this mark with edge of fabric to begin. 2 Beginning of stitching 3 End of stitching 4 Opposite edge of fabric to end or pivot 5 1/4 inch
Topstitching quilting, 1/8 inch
Sew with the edge of the fabric aligned with the left side of the presser foot end.
1 Surface of fabric 2 Seam 3 1/8 inch
Using the 1/4" quilting foot (sold separately with some models)
If the 1/4" quilting foot is used, seams can be sewn with a seam allowance of 6.4 mm (1/4 inch).
a
Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the fabric that you wish to piece together.
b
Attach the 1/4" quilting foot.
c
Select stitch .
d
Align the mark at the upper edge of the 1/4" quilting foot with the upper edge of the fabric.
Align the right edge of the fabric with the right edge of the narrow part of the 1/4" quilting foot.
1 Mark on 1/4" quilting foot 2 Beginning of stitching
When sewing with a seam allowance, align the left edge of the narrow part of the 1/4" quilting foot with the fabric edge.
1 Seam (3.2 mm (1/8 inch))
Memo
• For details, refer to “Pivoting” in the “Basic operations” section.
a
b
a
e
e
c
d
b
a
b
c
1
2
1
Page 87
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
Sewing S-29
UTILITY STITCHES
S
e
Start sewing.
f
When the end of the stitching is reached, stop the machine.
Sew until the mark at the lower edge of the 1/4" quilting foot aligns with the lower edge of the fabric.
1 6.4mm (1/4 inch) 2 End of stitching 3 Mark on 1/4" quilting foot
Quilting
Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily be sewn using the walking foot* and the quilting guide*.
* Sold separately with some models.
a
Baste the fabric to be quilted.
b
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot holder.
• For details, refer to “Removing and attaching the presser foot holder” in the “Basic operations” section.
c
Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot onto the needle clamp screw.
1 Connecting fork 2 Needle clamp screw
d
Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw with the screwdriver.
1 Presser foot holder screw
e
Select a stitch.
f
Place one hand on each side of the presser foot, and then evenly guide the fabric while sewing.
Note
• Thread the needle manually when using the walking foot, or only attach the walking foot after threading the needle using the needle threader.
• When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a speed between slow and medium.
• When quilting, use a 90/14 home machine needle.
• The walking foot can only be used with straight or zigzag stitch patterns. Reverse stitches cannot be sewn with the walking foot. Only select straight or zigzag stitch patterns with reinforcement stitches. For details, refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” in the “Basic operations” section.
• (For models equipped with Automatic Fabric Sensor System) When “Automatic Fabric Sensor System” in the settings screen is set to “ON”, the thickness of the fabric is automatically detected by the internal sensor so the fabric can be fed smoothly for best sewing results. For details on the automatic fabric sensor system, refer to “Automatic Fabric Sensor System (Automatic presser foot pressure)” in the “Basic operations” section.
2
3
1
CAUTION
• Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.
• Before starting to sew, slowly turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise)
and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
a
b
a
Page 88
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
S-30
Using the quilting guide (sold separately with some models)
Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that are equally spaced.
a
Insert the stem of the quilting guide into the hole at the rear of the walking foot or presser foot holder.
Walking foot
Presser foot holder
b
Adjust the stem of the quilting guide so that the guide aligns with the seam that has already been sewn.
Free motion quilting
We recommend attaching the foot controller and sewing at a consistent speed. You can adjust the sewing speed with the speed control slide on the machine.
Using free motion open toe quilting foot “O”* or quilting foot*
* Sold separately with some models.
The free motion open toe quilting foot “O” or quilting foot is used for free motion quilting with zigzag or decorative stitches or for free motion quilting of straight lines on fabric with an uneven thickness. Various stitches can be sewn using free motion open toe quilting foot “O”. For details on the stitches that can be used, refer to “Stitch Setting Chart” in the “Basic operations” section.
a
Slide the feed dog position switch, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to (to the left as seen from the rear of the machine).
1 Feed dog position switch (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
The feed dogs are lowered.
b
Select a stitch.
c
Remove the presser foot holder.
• For details, refer to “Removing and attaching the presser foot holder” in the “Basic operations” section.
d
Attach free motion open toe quilting foot “O” by positioning the pin of the quilting foot above the needle clamp screw and aligning the lower-left of the quilting foot and the presser bar.
1 Pin 2 Needle clamp screw 3 Presser bar
CAUTION
• With free motion quilting, control the feeding speed of the fabric to match the sewing speed. If the fabric is moved faster than the sewing speed, the needle may break or other damage may result.
Memo
• On models equipped with the free motion sewing
mode, the presser foot can be adjusted to the best height for free motion sewing. For details, refer to “Sewing with free motion mode” in the “Basic operations” section.
Free motion open
toe quilting foot “O”
Quilting foot
Note
• Make sure that the quilting foot is not slanted.
a
1
2
3
Page 89
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
Sewing S-31
UTILITY STITCHES
S
e
Hold the quilting foot in place with your right hand, and tighten the presser foot holder screw using the screwdriver with your left hand.
1 Presser foot holder screw
f
Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut, and then move the fabric at a consistent pace in order to sew uniform stitches roughly 2.0 mm - 2.5 mm (approx. 1/ 16 inch - 3/32 inch) in length.
1 Stitch
g
After sewing is finished, slide the feed dog position switch lever to (to the right as seen from the rear of the machine) and turn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.
Using free motion quilting foot “C” (sold separately with some models)
Use the free motion quilting foot “C” with straight stitch needle plate for free motion sewing.
Free motion quilting foot “C”
a
Attach the straight stitch needle plate (sold separately with some models).
• For details on attaching the straight stitch needle plate, refer to operation manual supplied with the product.
1 Round hole
b
Slide the feed dog position switch, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to (to the left as seen from the rear of the machine).
1 Feed dog position switch (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
The feed dogs are lowered.
c
Select .
d
Remove the presser foot holder.
• For details, refer to “Removing and attaching the presser foot holder” in the “Basic operations” section.
CAUTION
• Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the included screwdriver. Otherwise, the needle may touch the quilting foot, causing it to bend or break.
Memo
• Do not be discouraged with your initial results.
The technique requires practice.
CAUTION
• When using free motion quilting foot “C”, be sure to use the straight stitch needle plate and sew with the needle in middle (center) needle position. If the needle is moved to any position other than the middle (center) needle position, the needle may break, which may result in injuries.
Memo
• On models equipped with the free motion sewing
mode, the presser foot can be adjusted to the best height for free motion sewing. For details, refer to “Sewing with free motion mode” in the “Basic operations” section.
Memo
• Notice this needle plate has a round hole for the
needle.
a
Page 90
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
S-32
e
Attach free motion quilting foot “C” at the front with the presser foot holder screw aligned with the notch in the quilting foot.
1 Presser foot holder screw 2 Notch
f
Hold the quilting foot in place with your right hand, and tighten the presser foot holder screw using the screwdriver with your left hand.
1 Presser foot holder screw
g
Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut, and then move the fabric at a consistent pace in order to sew uniform stitches roughly 2.0 mm - 2.5 mm (approx. 1/ 16 inch - 3/32 inch) in length.
1 Stitch
h
After sewing is finished, slide the feed dog position switch lever to (to the right as seen from the rear of the machine) and turn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.
Echo quilting using the free motion echo quilting foot “E” (sold separately with some models)
Sewing quilting lines at equal distances around a motif is called echo quilting. The quilting lines, which appear as ripples echoing away from the motif, are the distinguishing characteristic of this quilting style. Use the optional free motion echo quilting foot “E” for echo quilting. Using the measurement on the presser foot as a guide, sew around the motif at a fixed interval. We recommend attaching the foot controller and sewing at a consistent speed.
Free motion echo quilting foot “E” measurement
1 6.4 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) 2 9.5 mm (approx. 3/8 inch)
Note
• Make sure that the quilting foot is attached properly and not slanted.
CAUTION
• Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the included screwdriver. Otherwise, the needle may touch the quilting foot, causing it to bend or break.
a
b
a
Note
• Free motion open toe quilting foot “O” can also be used with the straight stitch needle plate. We recommend using free motion open toe quilting foot “O” with free motion sewing of fabrics of uneven thicknesses.
• When using the straight stitch needle plate, all straight stitches become middle needle position stitches. You cannot change the needle position using the width display.
Memo
• Do not be discouraged with your initial results. The technique requires practice.
Page 91
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
Sewing S-33
UTILITY STITCHES
S
a
Slide the feed dog position switch, located at the rear of the machine on the base, to (to the left as seen from the rear of the machine).
1 Feed dog position switch (as seen from the rear of the
machine)
The feed dogs are lowered.
b
Select .
c
Remove the presser foot holder (see the “Basic operations” section) and the screw.
d
Position the free motion echo quilting foot “E” on the left side of the presser bar with the holes in the quilting foot and presser bar aligned.
e
Tighten the screw with the included screwdriver.
f
Using the measurement on the quilting foot as a guide, sew around the motif.
1 6.4 mm (approx. 1/4 inch)
CAUTION
• With free motion quilting, control the feeding speed of the fabric to match the sewing speed. If the fabric is moved faster than the sewing speed, the needle may break or other damage may result.
Memo
• On models equipped with the free motion sewing
mode, the presser foot can be adjusted to the best height for free motion sewing. For details, refer to “Sewing with free motion mode” in the “Basic operations” section.
a
CAUTION
• Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the included screwdriver. Otherwise, the needle may touch the quilting foot, causing it to bend or break.
Page 92
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
S-34
Finished project
g
After sewing is finished, slide the feed dog position switch lever to (to the right as seen from the rear of the machine) and turn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.
Satin stitching using the sewing speed controller
A decorative stitch can be sewn by changing the stitch width of a satin stitch. If the machine is set so that the stitch width can be adjusted using the sewing speed controller, the stitch width can quickly and easily be adjusted. In this case, the sewing speed is adjusted with the foot controller.
a
Connect the foot controller.
b
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
Press to display the settings screen, and set “Width Control” to “ON”.
The settings screens differ depending on the models.
The machine is now set so that the stitch width can
be controlled with the sewing speed controller.
d
Press .
e
Select stitch .
f
While sewing, slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the stitch width.
Slide the controller to the left to make the width narrower. Slide the controller to the right to make the width wider.
• Adjust the sewing speed with the foot controller.
g
When you are finished sewing, set the stitch width control setting back to “OFF”.
J
Narrower Wider
Memo
• Although the stitching result differs depending on
the type of fabric being sewn and the thickness of the thread being used, for best results, adjust the stitch length to between 0.3 and 0.5 mm (1/64 and 1/32 inch).
Page 93
Reinforcement Stitching
Sewing S-35
UTILITY STITCHES
S
Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.
• Using the table below, refer to “Using the utility stitch tables in the “Sewing” section” in the “Basic operations” section.
* Stitch patterns can be selected directly by pressing the
numeric keys on the machine during preset utility stitch mode. Refer to “Basic operations” section.
Triple stretch stitching
Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes and inseams.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select stitch .
c
Start sewing.
Bar tack stitching
Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to strain, such as pocket corners and openings.
As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at pocket corners is described below.
a
Determine the desired length of the bar tack.
Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot “A” to the desired length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
1 Presser foot scale 2 Length of bar tack 3 5 mm (3/16 inch)
• A bar tack with a maximum length of about 28 mm (1–1/8 inches) can be sewn.
b
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
c
Select stitch .
d
Position the fabric so that the opening of the pocket faces toward you, and then lower the presser foot lever so that the needle drops 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening.
1 2 mm (1/16 inch)
Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot.
Reinforcement Stitching
Stitch name Stitch
BLMAV
Presser foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Stitch number
Triple stretch stitch 1-05
05
* 05*
J
Bar tack stitch 4-13 89 69
A
Darning stitch
4-11
87
67
4-12 88 68
J
3
1
2
1
Page 94
Reinforcement Stitching
S-36
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the bar tack will not be sewn with the correct size.
1 Do not reduce the gap.
e
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as possible.
1 Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.
1 Buttonhole lever 2 Bracket
f
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left hand, and then start sewing.
g
Raise the presser foot lever, remove the fabric, and then cut the threads.
h
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original position.
Darning
1 Reinforcement stitching
a
Determine the desired length of the darning.
Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot “A” to the desired length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
1 Presser foot scale 2 Length of darning 3 5 mm (3/16 inch) 4 7 mm (1/4 inch)
• A bar tack with a maximum length of about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) can be sewn.
Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.
b
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
c
Select stitch or .
Memo
• If the fabric does not feed, for example, because it is too thick, increase the stitch length. For details, refer to “Setting the stitch length” in the “Basic operations” section.
a
a
2
1
1
2
4
3
Page 95
Reinforcement Stitching
Sewing S-37
UTILITY STITCHES
S
d
Position the fabric so that the needle is 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the area to be darned.
1 Tear 2 2 mm (1/16 inch)
Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the darning will not be sewn with the correct size.
1 Do not reduce the gap.
e
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as possible.
1 Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot.
1 Buttonhole lever 2 Bracket
f
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left hand, and then start sewing.
g
Raise the presser foot lever, remove the fabric, and then cut the threads.
h
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original position.
2
1
a
a
2
1
Memo
• If the fabric does not feed, for example, because it is too thick, increase the stitch length. For details, refer to “Setting the stitch length” in the “Basic operations” section.
Page 96
Eyelet Stitching
S-38
Eyelets, such as those on belts, can be sewn.
• Using the table below, refer to “Using the utility stitch tables in the “Sewing” section” in the “Basic operations” section.
a
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
b
Select stitch .
c
Adjust either the stitch width or the stitch length to select the desired eyelet size.
1 7mm 2 6mm 3 5mm
• For details, refer to “Setting the stitch width” and “Setting the stitch length” in the “Basic operations” section.
d
Lower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the stitching, and then lower the presser foot lever.
e
Start sewing.
Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.
f
Use the eyelet punch to cut a hole in the center of the eyelet.
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric.
Eyelet Stitching
Stitch name Stitch
BLMAV
Presser foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Stitch number
Eyelet stitch 4-15 91 71 N
1
2
3
Memo
• If thin thread is used, the stitching may be too open. If this occurs, sew the eyelet twice before removing the fabric, one on top of the other.
Page 97
Attaching Patches or Emblems to Shirt Sleeves
Sewing S-39
UTILITY STITCHES
S
Use these stitch patterns to attach patches or emblems to pant legs, shirt sleeves, etc.
• Using the table below, refer to “Using the utility stitch tables in the “Sewing” section” in the “Basic operations” section.
Insert the tubular piece of fabric onto the free-arm, and then sew in the order shown in the illustration.
a
Remove the flat bed attachment.
b
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
c
Select stitch .
d
Lower the needle into the fabric at the beginning of the stitching, and then start sewing.
Lower the needle at the upper-right corner.
The fabric is fed toward the back of the machine, as
usual.
e
After you have sewn to the corner, stop the machine, and then select stitch .
f
Start sewing.
The fabric is fed to the right.
g
After you have sewn to the corner, stop the machine,
and then select stitch .
h
Start sewing.
The fabric is fed forward.
i
After you have sewn to the corner, stop the machine, and then select stitch .
j
Start sewing.
The fabric is fed to the left.
Attaching Patches or Emblems to Shirt Sleeves
Stitch name Stitch
BLMAV
Presser foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Stitch number
Reverse
(Straight stitch)
5-01 92
N
Sideways to left (Straight stitch)
5-02 93
Sideways to right
(Straight stitch)
5-03 94
For wa rd
(Straight stitch)
5-04 95
Sideways to left
(Zigzag stitch)
5-05 96
Sideways to right
(Zigzag stitch)
5-06 97
For wa rd
(Zigzag stitch)
5-07 98
Reverse
(Zigzag stitch)
5-08 99
13
4
2
Page 98
Attaching Patches or Emblems to Shirt Sleeves
S-40
k
After you have sewn to the corner, stop the machine,
and then select stitch again.
l
After sewing 3 to 5 stitches at the beginning of the stitching, stop the machine.
Memo
• The feeding direction of the fabric differs depending on the stitch that is selected. Be sure to guide the fabric while machine is sewing.
Page 99
Decorative Stitching
Sewing S-41
UTILITY STITCHES
S
The utility stitches contain the following decorative stitches.
• Using the table below, refer to “Using the utility stitch tables in the “Sewing” section” in the “Basic operations” section.
Fagoting
Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch is more decorative when thicker thread is used.
a
Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric along their seams.
b
Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by about 4 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a sheet of water­soluble stabilizer.
If you draw a line down the middle of the thin paper or water-soluble stabilizer, sewing is easier.
1 Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer 2 Basting stitching 3 4 mm (3/16 inch)
c
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
d
Select stitch or .
e
Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).
Decorative Stitching
Stitch name Stitch
BLMAV
Presser foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Stitch number
Patchwork join stitch 2-07 42 36
J
Patchwork double
overlock stitch
2-08 43 37
Couching stitch 2-09 44 38
Shell tuck edge stitch 2-04 39 34
Smocking stitch 2-10 45 39
Feather stitch 2-11 46 40
Fagoting cross stitch 2-12 47 41
Satin scallop stitch 2-05 40 35
N
Hemstitching
3-04 58 48
3-06 60 50
3-09 63
3-10 64 52
Honeycomb stitch 3-12 66
Hemstitching
3-18 72 56
3-20 74
3-21 75
3-22 76
Ladder stitch 2-14 49 43
J
Rick-rack stitch 2-15 50 44
Decorative stitch 2-16 51 45
Serpentine stitch 2-17 52 46 N
Stitch name Stitch
BLMAV
Presser foot
BLMSP/BLMLR
BL210A
Stitch number
2
1
3
J
Page 100
Decorative Stitching
S-42
f
Sew with the center of the presser foot aligned along the center of the two pieces of fabric.
g
After sewing is finished, remove the paper.
Scallop stitching
The wave-shaped repeated pattern that looks like shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars of blouses and to decorate the edges of projects.
a
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
b
Select stitch .
c
Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making sure not to sew directly on the edge of the fabric.
• For better results, apply spray starch onto the fabric and press with a hot iron before it is sewn.
d
Trim along the stitches.
• Be careful not to cut the stitches.
Smocking
The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs.
The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric.
a
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
b
Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen the thread tension.
• For details, refer to “Setting the stitch length” and “Setting the thread tension” in the “Basic operations” section.
• For details, refer to “Pulling up the bobbin thread” in the “Basic operations” section.
c
Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm (3/8 inch).
1 1 cm (3/8 inch)
• Do not use reverse/reinforcement stitching or thread cutting.
• At the end of the stitching, the thread is pulled out about 5 cm (2 inches).
d
Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.
Smooth the gathers by ironing them.
J
1
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