Baby Lock EVOLVE User Manual
"IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS"
When using overlock machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed,
including the following.
Read all instructions before using this overlock machine.
DANGER- To reduce the risk of electric shock.
1. The overlock machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this overlock
machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
2. Always unplug before replacing light bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 watts/110 volts in
110V/120V area. (15 watts 230 volts in 220V/240V area.)
WARNING- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the sewing machine is used by or
near children.
2. Use this overlock machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments
recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this overlock machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the overlock machine to the nearest authorized
dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the overlock machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the overlock machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol "O" position which represents off, then remove plug
from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the overlock machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong needle plate can cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle(s) causing it to break.
14. Switch the overlock machine to the symbol "O" position when making any adjustments in the needle area,
such as threading needle, changing needle, threading looper, or changing presser foot, and the like.
15. Always unplug the overlock machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when
making any of the user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
16. Keep fingers away from moving parts, especially the area near the blades.
17. Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance
with relevant National legislation relating to electrical / electronic products. If in
doubt please cont
act your retailer for guidance.
18.
The appliance is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without
supervision.
19. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.
"SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS"
"This overlock machine is intended for household use."
European
Union only
Welcome to the Baby Lock evolve
Your Baby Lock evolve provides chain stitching, cover stitching, and overlocking. The Baby Lock evolve has an
exclusive "Thread Delivery System" that eliminates confusing tension adjustments. The evolve enables you to
accomplish a perfect stitch with any type of thread on any type of fabric. You no longer need to guess at the
correct tension adjustments.
Your Baby Lock evolve is a high-quality, dependable machine. It gives you the ability to seam, overcast and
trim all in one operation. Fabrics and threads you previously avoided are now a joy to sew because the Baby
Lock evolve handles all varieties with equal ease. With the Baby Lock evolve your creative options are endless
and your time spent serging is more fulfilling and rewarding. With the "Instant Jet-Air Threading", even threading the evolve is a breeze.
With proper care and maintenance, your Baby Lock evolve promises years of high-quality, dependable performance and sewing pleasure. Keep this instruction manual as a step-by-step guide to become familiar with
your Baby Lock evolve and expand your sewing horizons.
For additional product information and updates, visit our website at www. babylock. com.
Happy Sewing!
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Table of Contents
OVERVIEW...................................................................................................................... 4
How Your Machine Operates.................................................................................. 4
Overview of the evolve ........................................................................................... 5
Accessories ............................................................................................................ 6
Needles .................................................................................................................. 7
Thread .................................................................................................................... 7
Optional Accessories.............................................................................................. 7
Setting Up Your evolve ........................................................................................ 8/9
Cutting Blade Lock Switch.................................................................................... 10
Cutting Blade Cover and Sewing Table................................................................ 10
Upper Looper Positioning Lever........................................................................... 10
Thread Cutter........................................................................................................ 11
Presser Foot Pressure Adjustment.......................................................................
11
Snap-on Presser Foot........................................................................................... 11
Stitch Length / Rolled Hem
................................................................................... 12
Stitch Width........................................................................................................... 12
Differential Feed ................................................................................................... 13
Overlock
Thread Delivery System........................................................................ 14
Stitch Selector Lever............................................................................................. 14
Wave Selector Lever ............................................................................................ 14
Side Cover............................................................................................................ 14
Chain/Cover Stitch Tension Dials ......................................................................... 15
Needle Tension Dial.............................................................................................. 15
Chain Looper Tension Dial.................................................................................... 15
2-Thread Subsidiary Looper................................................................................. 16
Upper and Lower Looper Thread Fine-Tuning Screw.......................................... 16
Notes ....................................................................................................................
17
THREADING.................................................................................................................. 18
Threading Preparation.......................................................................................... 18
Threading Your evolve.......................................................................................... 19
Locked Position for Threading.............................................................................. 19
Thread Stand and Thread Port Reference Chart..................................................
19
Lower Looper........................................................................................................ 20
Upper Looper........................................................................................................ 20
Chain Looper........................................................................................................ 21
Chain/Cover Needles ........................................................................................... 22
Lef
t Chain/Cover Needle - C-1 ............................................................... 22
Center Chain/Cover Needle - C-2 .......................................................... 22
Right Chain/Cover Needle - C-3............................................................. 22
Overlock Needles ................................................................................................. 23
Left Overlock Needle - O-1..................................................................... 23
Right Overlock Needle - O-2 .................................................................. 23
How to Use the Needle Threader......................................................................... 24
Front Cover Seam Guide...................................................................................... 24
Start to Sew.......................................................................................................... 25
To Chain-Of
f of the Fabric..................................................................................... 25
Clearing the Stitch Width Fingers......................................................................... 26
Re-threading Loopers........................................................................................... 26
OVERLOCK STITCHES - Express Stitches................................................................ 27
4-Thread Overedging ........................................................................................... 27
Overlock Seam..................................................................................................... 27
4-Thread Overlock................................................................................................ 28
3-Thread Overlock - Wide .................................................................................... 29
3-Thread Overlock - Narrow................................................................................. 30
3-Thread Overlock - Narrow Hemming................................................................. 31
Rolled Edging ....................................................................................................... 32
3-Thread Rolled Edge .......................................................................................... 32
Seaming Sheers................................................................................................... 33
Lettuce Edge ........................................................................................................ 33
Belt Loops and Button Loops................................................................................ 33
Returning to Standard Serging............................................................................. 33
3-Thread Flatlock - Narrow................................................................................... 34
2-Thread Overlock................................................................................................ 35
Table of Contents (Cont.)
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Converting from 3-thread to 2-thread overlock..................................................... 35
2-Thread Flatlock - Wide ...................................................................................... 36
2-Thread Flatlock - Narrow
Blanket Stitch - Decorative Stitch.......................................................................... 38
Ladder Stitch - Decorative Stitch .......................................................................... 39
Wave Stitch........................................................................................................... 40
Converting from Normal Serging to Wave............................................................ 40
3-thread Wave Stitch ............................................................................................ 41
3-thread Rolled Wave Stitch ................................................................................. 42
3-thread Reversed Wave Stitch............................................................................ 43
CHAIN/COVER STITCH - Express Stitches................................................................ 44
Chain Stitching
Cover Stitch - Right Narrow - 3mm.................................................................
Cover Stitch - Left Narrow - 3mm....................................................................
Cover Stitch - Wide - 6mm............................................................................... 50/51
Triple Cover Stitch - 6mm ................................................................................ 52/53
Triple Cover Stitch
COMBINATION STITCH - Expressive Stitches........................................................... 54
4-Thread Safety Stitch..................................................................................... 54/55
5-Thread Safety Stitch.....................................................................................
7-Thread Wave Stitch ...................................................................................... 58/59
7-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch...................................................................... 60/61
8-Thread Stitch................................................................................................ 62/63
Expressive Stiches: Chain/Cover Stitches combined with Overlock Stitches........
Expressive Combinations................................................................................ 64/65
TECHNIQUES................................................................................................................ 66
Turning Corners - Chain Stitch ............................................................................. 66
Turning Corners - Cover Stitch ............................................................................. 66
Turning Outside Corners - Overlock..................................................................... 67
urning Inside Corners - Overlock........................................................................ 67
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Flat Hemming - Cover Stitch................................................................................. 68
Hemming in the Round - Cover Stitch.................................................................. 68
Blind Hemming - Overlock.................................................................................... 69
Sewing Curves - Overlock.................................................................................... 69
Inserting Tapes - Overlock.................................................................................... 70
Inserting Tapes - Cover Stitch............................................................................... 70
Flatlock "Decorative" - Overlock........................................................................... 71
Securing Ends - Overlock................................................................................ 72/73
Securing Chain and Cover Stitching
Notes .................................................................................................................... 75
SPECIALTY THREADS................................................................................................. 76
Using Specialty Threads....................................................................................... 76
Light-weight Threads
Medium-weight Threads.............................................................................. 76
Heavy-weight Threads................................................................................ 76
Bypassing the Threading Port.............................................................................. 77
Looper Threading Tool.......................................................................................... 78
Thread Cradle for Loopers
Specialty Thread Guide Chart ......................................................................... 80/81
MAINTENANCE............................................................................................................. 82
Troubleshooting............................................................................................... 82/83
Replacing Needles ............................................................................................... 84
Replacing Cutting Blades
Replacing Light Bulb............................................................................................. 85
Cleaning ............................................................................................................... 86
TECHNICAL DATA ........................................................................................................ 87
Technical dat
STITCH SELECTION CHART....................................................................................... 88
Chart for Stitch Selection Setting for Chain/Cover and Combination Stitches. 88/89
................................................................................................. 44/45
Chain Stitch - Tension Adjustment......................................................... 45
Cover Stitch Tension Adjustment............................................................ 47
Cover Stitch Tension Adjustment............................................................ 49
Cover S
titch Tension Adjustment ............................................................ 51
a....................................................................................................... 87
................................................................................... 37
46/47
48/49
Tension Adjustment.................................................. 53
56/57
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................................................................................... 79
..................................................................................... 85
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How Your Machine Operates
Sometimes called an overlock machine or overlocker, the serger is different from any conventional sewing
machine you have used. Awareness of its simple operation will enable you to become more proficient in its
use. Please read all instructions before using your new machine.
A serger is kind of a knitting process that loops two, three or four threads together to create a stitch.
Your Baby Lock evolve operates with one or two needles in the overlock position and one or two loopers to
form an overlock stitch. Use one, two or three chain/cover stitch needles and one looper for a chain or cover
stitch. Uniquely independent of each other, you can use any of the overlock or chain/cover stitch selections
separately or in combination.
When fabric is placed in front of the presser foot, it reaches the feed dogs first. The feed dogs move the fabric along as the cutting blades trim the fabric edge, creating a clean edge to be finished. Or disengage your
blade and insert the sewing table to sew a chain stitch in the center of your fabric.
The overlock stitch is supported by one or more parallel "stitch finger(s)" that keep the fabric flat. To form an
overlock stitch, the threads become "locked" "over" the edge of the fabric encasing the raw edge with thread to
prevent fabric raveling. When forming a chain stitch, the chain needle thread catches the chain looper to form
a straight stitch on the top of your fabric and thread chain loops on the underside. Use 2 or 3 cover stitch needles and the chain looper to form a double or triple row of straight stitching on the top and a weave of thread
on the underside of your fabric.
After setting up your machine for the first time, take a few moments to learn how it sews. Before your machine
is threaded, turn the handwheel toward you and watch the operation of the various parts.
Overview of the evolve
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1. Upper looper positioning lever 19. Machine lock button
2. Presser foot adjusting screw 20. Looper threading lever
3. Presser foot thread release lever* 21. Chain looper threading port
4. Thread cutter 22. Differential feed adjusting lever
5. Chain/cover stitch needle tension dial 23. Handwheel
6. Needle height viewing area 24. Lower looper threading port
7. Needle clamp screws 25. Power switch
8. Snap-on presser foot 26. Looper threader selector
9. Needle plate 27. Overlock stitch selector
10. Stitch width adjusting dial 28. Accessory compartment & spool stand
11. Side cover 29. Upper looper threading port
12. Cutting blade lock switch 30. Chain/cover stitch looper tension dial
13. Stitch length/rolled hem adjusting dial 31. Carrying handle
14. Cutting blade cover 32. Wave Selector Lever
15. Needle drop drawer 33. Upper & Lower looper thread
16. Subsidiary looper fine-tuning screw
17. Front cover 34. Telescopic thread guide
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18. Machine lock button release lever and antenna
* Raising the presser foot releases all threads.
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Accessories
Your Baby Lock evolve serger has a built-in accessory compartment. To open, swing the "lid" on the thread
spoolstand to the right to reveal the tray holding some of the accessories listed below. Others may be found
in the machine packing materials.
Accessory Number included Located in
Instruction manual 1 Packing box
Quick reference threading guide 1 Packing box
Instruction video tape (U.S.A. only) 1 Packing box
Flat table for chain/cover stitching 1
Packing box
Thread guide extension 1 Packing box
Guide fixing screws for table
2 In flat table
Lint brush/needle insert tool 1 Accessory compartment
Package of assorted sized needles 1 Accessory compartment
Organ ELx705CF
Allen screwdriver 1 Accessory compartment
Tweezers 1 Accessory compartment
Upper cutting blade for replacement 1 Accessory compartment
Needle threader 1 Accessory compartment
Overlock needle screws 2 Accessory compartment
Chain/Cover stitch needle screws 2 Accessory compartment
Looper threading tool 1 Accessory packet
Screwdriver 1 Accessory packet
Machine cover 1 Accessory packet
Mounting bolt with washer 1 Accessory packet
Thread nets 8 Accessory packet
Spool caps 8 Accessory packet
Sponge disks 8 Accessory packet
Cone holders
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Needles
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Your Baby Lock evolve serger is set up to use either Schmetz or Organ ELx705CF needles size 90/14. This
is suitable for most medium and heavyweight fabrics. For lightweight fabrics use size 80/12, ELx705CF nee
dles. The ELx705CF needle is a semi-ballpoint design and is suitable for knits and wovens.
Thread
All types of thread may be used on your Baby Lock, but 100% long-staple polyester thread, crosswound on a
cone, consistently provides the best stitch performance. Because the threads must pass through several thread
guides at high speeds, they must be of uniform thickness and high strength with a minimum amount of linting.
Good-quality cotton or cotton-covered polyester threads sew well, though they produce more lint, creating the
need to clean the machine more frequently. They work well for overedging and seaming, but they may be too
weak or too fuzzy for the rolled edge. Poor grades of thread can result in frequent fraying, breaking and unbalanced stitches.
Threads of other fiber contents and weights may be used, depending on their strength and thickness. Testing
will help you determine how easily they can pass through the thread guides, thread slots, needles and loopers.
Important Note: For maximum performance of the Baby Lock evolve, it is recommended to use "100%
polyester-long fiber thread". Recommended brands are Maxi-Lock and Metrosene. This thread also performs
best when used with many decorative threads for sewing specialty decorative techniques.
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Optional Accessories
OVERLOCK OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
Beading Foot B5002-04A-C-E (BLE8-BF)
Blindhem Foot B5002S06A-E (BLE8-BLHF)
Elastic Applicator Foot B5002S09A-E (BLE8-EF)
Lace Applicator Foot B5002S08A-E (BLE8-LF)
Piping Foot/5mm Cording B5002-05A-C-E (BLE8-CF)
Ruffling Foot B5002S07A-E (BLE8-RF)
CHAIN/COVER STITCH OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
Belt Loop Folder 3/4" B0421S12A-E (BLE8-S12)
Belt Loop Folder 1-1/2" B0421S11A-E (BLE8-S11)
Double Fold Bias Binder 28mm B0421S03A-E (BLE8-S3)
Double Fold Bias Binder 36mm B0421S02A-E (BLE8-S2)
Fabric Guide B0420S01A-E (BLE8-FG)
Pintuck Foot w/2 Guides B5002-06A-C-E (BLE8-PTF)
Plain Hemmer 1/4" B0421S07A-E
Plain Hemmer 1/2"
Single Downturn Feller 1/4" B0421S10A-E (BLE8-S10)
Single Downturn Feller 5/8" B0421S08A-E (BLE8-S8)
Single Downturn Feller 1" B0421S09A-E (BLE8-S9)
Single Fold Bias Binder 28mm B0421S04A-E (BLE8-S4)
Single Fold Bias Binder 40mm B0421S05A-E (BLE8-S5)
B0421S06A-E (BLE8-S6)
(BLE8-S7)
OTHER OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
Bulb Remover tool
Top Stich Needle Size 90 (T-90B)
B7525-01A (262011)
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Setting Up Your evolve
1. Remove machine from box
After removing the packing materials from the box,
gently lift your Baby Lock serger by grasping the handle provided on the top of the machine. Place the
machine on a serger sewing table or any level surface
that provides ample work area to the left. Place the foot
controller in a pedal stay, if desired, and place it under
the sewing table.
2. Plug in the machine
Plug the power cord into the machine first, then into a
wall outlet. The power switch is located toward the
back on the right side of the machine. Always make
sure the power is off when the machine is not in use (fig.
A). Available foot controller for U.S.A.: Model YC-482
or YC-420W.
3. Polarized plug
This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider
than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock,
this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one
way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse
the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug
in any way.
4. Foot controller
The sewing speed of the machine is determined by the
amount of pressure applied to the foot controller. When
not in use, do not place anything on the foot controller,
or the machine could start inadvertently and the controller or motor could burn out.
5. Spool pin extension table
To insert the spool pin extension:
Place the pegs into the slots on the back of the main
thread spool stand.
Push the extension thread stand onto the main thread
spool stand until it snaps into place (fig. B).
To remove:
Hold the back of the extension table with both hands.
Raise it up and
out to release from the main thread
spool stand (fig. C).
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Setting Up Your evolve
6. Position the telescopic thread guide.
Raise the telescopic thread guide to its highest position. Rotate the shaft to the left and right until each section "clicks" into a locked position (fig. D).
7. Thread guide extension
To install: Snap & lower. Place plastic support of thread guide extension on top of main telescopic thread guide.
Support the main guide with one hand and snap the extension guide to the back with your other hand (fig. D).
Lower into position. To remove: Raise & pivot. Raise the plastic support straight up and pivot the back of the
support up to release (fig. E).
8. Opening front cover
The front cover may be opened simply by placing your fingers behind the tab at the right side and pulling toward
you (fig. F).
9. Opening Cutting blade cover
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To open the cutting blade cover, place your thumb against the tab, and slide the cover to the right. A slight pull
toward you will allow the cover to swing down, providing access to the loopers, blades, and thread guides
(fig. G).
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Your machine is pre-set to sew an overlock with a chain stitch. The upper blade is engaged to cut the fabric
while sewing. Of course, you may select to engage or disengage the cutting blade. You can change the blade
cover to the sewing table and lock the upper looper down when sewing only the chain stitch.
down up
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Cutting Blade Lock Switch
Cutting blade cover and sewing table
Upper looper positioning lever
To lock cutting blade down:
Turn the dial clockwise 180 degrees to see "LOCK" on the top.
The cutting blade will stay below the needle plate for non-cutting
techniques.(Fig. A)
To re-engage cutting blade:
Turn the cutting blade lock switch half of a turn counter-clockwise. The blade
will start moving automatically when you start sewing.
Cutting blade cover can be changed to sewing table for chain/cover stitching.
a) Open front cover and cutting blade cover.(See page 9, F & G)
b) Gently pull toward you to unsnap cover (Fig. B) and snap sewing table into
place (Fig. C).
c) Lower the upper looper positioning lever down (Fig.D).
d) Close the sewing table door and then the front cover. (Fig. E)
When you change from overlocking to chain/cover stitching, you should also
change the upper looper positioning lever to the "DOWN" position before you
close the sewing table door.
a) Turn the handwheel until upper looper is at its lowest position.
b) Change the upper looper positioning lever to the "DOWN" position. (Fig. D)
c) Close the sewing table door and then the front cover. (Fig. E)
Note:
Make sure the upper looper positioning lever is in the "UP" position prior
to locking the machine to thread the upper looper.
Thread Cutter
There is a thread cutter located on the left side of your evolve.
At the end of a seam, sew off the fabric edge and continue sewing to create
a 5-6 inch (12.5-15cm) thread chain.
Bring the chain of thread up and from the back to front through the thread
cutter.
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Presser Foot Pressure Adjustment
The presser foot pressure has been preset at the factory and rarely needs
adjustment. You may find it necessary, however, to decrease the pressure
for thick fabrics or increase pressure for thin fabrics to feed more smoothly
under the foot. Use a coin to turn the screw on top of the machine.
To increase pressure, turn the pressure adjusting screw clockwise.
To decrease pressure, turn the screw counterclockwise.
Snap-On Presser Foot
The evolve has the convenience of a snap-on presser foot.
To Release:
1. Raise the presser foot lever.
2. Lock the cutting blade down.
3. Raise the needles to the highest position.
4. Push the presser foot release lever located at the back of the presser foot
holder.
5. Carefully turn the presser foot clockwise 90 degrees.
6. Slide the presser foot to the rear to remove.
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Presser Foot
Release Lever
The presser foot that comes with the evolve has a tape sewing slot. Insert the tape or ribbon, into the slot in
the front of the foot, then under the sole of the foot. (see page 70 for more instruction)
The raised markings on the toe of the foot are seam line guides. They indicate the needle positions to help
guide your fabric for accurate seaming.
To Replace:
1. Raise the presser foot lever.
2. Lock the cutting blade down.
3. Raise the needles to the highest position.
4. Slide the foot from the left to right.
5. Align the bar of the foot with the groove in the holder.
6. Lower the presser foot lever to snap into place.
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Stitch Length/Rolled Hem
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Stitch Width
The stitch length / rolled hem adjusting dial is conveniently located just to the
left of the front cover, near the base plate (fig. A). The dial shows two stitchlength ranges, each numbered from 1, for the shortest stitch, to 4 for the
longest. As the dial indicates, one range is for standard sewing and one is for
rolled edging or narrow seaming.
Simply turn the dial aligning the desired setting with the indicator mark on the
machine. A stitch length of 3mm, or about 10 stitches per inch is ideal for
seaming and overedging most fabrics. For overedging or seaming very lightweight fabrics, you may prefer a shorter stitch length. When sewing heavier
fabrics, you may choose to lengthen the stitch (fig. B).
The stitch width adjusting dial is located above the stitch length dial (fig. A). The
stitch width displays two sets of numbers, indicating two width ranges. for overlock stitches. The larger numbers at each end of the dial, 5.5 and 7.5mm,
denote the stitch width when the 0-1 (left hand) needle is in use. The smaller
numbers, 3.0 and 5.0mm, apply when only the 0-2 (right-hand) needle is in use
for forming a 3-thread stitch. The "M" setting (3.5) is for the rolled edge.
Adjusting the stitch width moves the upper cutting blade. It also moves the
stitch fingers further apart or closer together for complete fabric support with
any stitch width.
The stitch width is infinitely variable between either end of the range. Simply
turn the dial aligning the desired setting with the indicator mark on the machine.
Use a wider stitch on loosely woven fabrics. You may prefer a narrower stitch
width on knits, tightly woven, or sheer fabrics (fig. B).
Differential Feed
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Your Baby Lock serger is equipped with differential feed.The set of feed
dogs work independently in order to ensure smooth sewing on all
fabrics.
When the differential feed adjusting lever, located at the machine's
right, front edge is set on "N" for normal feeding, the feed dogs move
the same distance. This is the setting to use for most fabrics and applications.
When the dial is set above "N" (fig.B), the front feed dog will feed more
fabrics than the back. This is because the front feed dog moves at a
greater distance than the back feed dogs. As a result, the fabric
becomes compressed or eased, as the diagram on the front cover
indicates. This can eliminate wavy seams in stretchy fabrics or those
cut on the bias grain (fig.A).
At the maximum setting of 2.0 (fig. C), the differential feed can gather
a lightweight fabric to nearly double fullness (fig. D).
The front feed dog is actually feeding in twice as much fabric as the
back feed dog is feeding out. To maximize the gathering effects, use
the longest stitch length setting. Fabric weight will affect the gathering.
Test stitch for desired results.
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When the differential feed lever is set below "N" (fig. F), the front feed dog
moves less distance than the back feed dog. This adjustment stretches
the fabric slightly as it is sewn. The lower settings prevent puckers on
lightweight fabric (fig. E), add more stretch to swim wear, active wear, and
can be used to create a lettuce edge (see page 33).
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Overlock Thread Delivery System
Stitch Selector Lever
Side Cover
The Baby Lock evolve revolutionizes the way a serger works with its exclusive overlock Thread Delivery
System. You no longer have to manually adjust the tension settings for the type of overlock stitch you are
sewing. Select the type of overlock stitch you wish to serge, the evolve will automatically feed the correct
amount of thread through the needles, the loopers and thread guides to form a perfect stitch every time.
The stitch selector lever which controls the overlock thread delivery
system for overlock stitching is located on the right side of the machine.
Select appropriate setting, A, B, C, or D.
A - for overlock stitches using the left needle (O-1) and the looper
threads balanced.
B - for overlock stitches using the right needle (O-2) and the looper
threads balanced.
C - for narrow stitches with a short length and the looper threads bal-
anced.
D - for stitches that require a tight lower looper.
For best results, use setting B or C for WAVE stitching.
See chart on last page for stitch selection settings.
Open side door on the left for easy access
to the chain looper thread tray.
Close door before sewing.
Wave Selector Lever
The Wave Selector lever shows "O" and "W". Select "O" for overlock
stitching. Select "W" for wave stitching
Chain/Cover Stitch Tension Dials
O
The tension system of the chain and cover stitches are completely separate from the system being used on
the overlock stitches. Unlike the thread delivery system of the overlock stitches, the tensions of the chain
/ cover stitch needles and chain looper are adjusted by dials located on the outer sides of your evolve.
Needle Tension Dial
The needle tension dial is located on the top left side of the machine. One tension dial controls all 3 of the
chain/cover stitch needle selections. Normally set at "5", the dial can be turned from 0 - 9 to increase or
decrease the tension on the chain/cover stitch needle threads.
Increase the tension by turning the dial to a larger number.
Decrease the tension by turning the dial to a smaller number.
Align the number with the indicator mark on the front of the machine near the dial.
Chain Looper Tension Dial
V
E
R
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W
The chain looper tension dial is divided into 2 sections - Chain Stitch and Cover Stitch. The dial is located on
the top right side of the machine. Align the selected tension setting with the indicator mark on the front right of
the machine.
The Chain Stitch section of the looper tension dial has a tighter looper tension for sewing chain stitch.
Select the row of stripes on the dial for chain stitching. The wider the stripe the tighter the chain looper
tension.
The Cover Stitch section of the looper tension dial has a looser tension for sewing wide, narrow or triple
cover stitches. Select the solid line on the dial for cover stitch tension settings. The closer to the wide
horizontal mark indicates looser tension for cover stitching.
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2-Thread Subsidiary Looper
Either needle thread may be engaged for 2-thread overlock sewing
1. Open the front cover and the blade cover, cut the upper looper
thread just above the threading port (fig. A). Raise the presser
foot and pull out the clipped thread from under the foot.
Remove the upper looper thread from the machine.
2. Rotate the handwheel to bring the upper looper to its lowest
position.
3. Rotate the subsidiary looper up and to the left (fig. B), insert the
end into the upper looper eye (fig. C).
4. Close the blade cover and the front cover.
Upper and Lower Looper Thread Fine-Tuning
No adjustments are needed when sewing with most fabrics and
threads on your Baby Lock evolve, but certain threads or fabrics may
require minor fine-tuning of the looper delivery system to perfect your
stitches. Increase or decrease the delivery of the looper threads with
the upper and lower looper thread fine-tuning screw. With a screwdriver (found in accessory kit), turn the fine-tuning screw clockwise to
tighten the looper threads equally. Turn the screw counter-clockwise
to loosen the looper threads equally.
Ideal Stitch
Standard Position
Upper and lower
looper threads are
too loose.
Tighten the screw
(+)
loosen the screw (-)
Upper and lower
looper threads are
too tight.
Notes:
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Threading Preparation
When using threads on cones or king spools place the cone or spool
securely over the cone holders furnished on your machine. To avoid bending the thread stand, you may need to place one hand under the stand
while positioning the cone. The cone holders prevent the cone or spool
from spinning, enabling the thread to feed evenly (fig.A).
Because threads for the serger feed from the top, standard spool threads
can snag on the rough edges of many of these spools. That's why spool
caps are furnished with your serger to provide a smooth surface that
enables the thread to reel off freely. With the spool notch side down, insert
a spool cap into the top of the spool (fig.B).
When using standard spool threads on your serger, replace the cone holders with the sponge disks furnished with your machine. These disks hold
smaller spools securely and help the thread to reel off properly. With the
sponge disk in place, put the capped spool on the spindle (fig.C).
Thread nets may be placed over threads that tend to slip off the bottom of
the spool during sewing. Most threads do not require their use, but nets
often are necessary with nylon, rayon or
silk threads (fig.D). Once it's on the
spool, fold the net back on itself. Pull
thread from the top of spool to enable the
thread to feed evenly (fig.E).
C
A
B
Standard sewing thread with
spool cap.
Standard sewing thread with
sponge disk and spool cap.
D
Thread net on thread.
Large spools with Cone Holders.
E
Pulling thread through thread net.
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Threading Your evolve
Locked Position for Threading,
Thread Stand and Thread Port Reference Chart
Your Baby Lock evolve is equipped with an exclusive "Instant Jet-Air Threading System" for fast, easy threading of the upper, lower, and chain loopers.
One push of the "Jet-Air" threading lever will automatically thread the loopers. It is no longer necessary to use
tweezers for threading the thread guides. If a looper thread breaks or runs out, just re-thread it. There is no
need to follow threading sequence.
1. Open the front cover.
2. Raise the presser foot to release all threads.
3. Set the upper looper positioning lever in the ''UP' position.
4. Depress the machine lock button firmly. Rotate the machine handwheel slowly toward you until the button
"snaps" into the locked position and the lock button release lever moves to the far left (fig.A).
Note: The evolve must be in the locked position when threading the loopers unless otherwise indicated.
The spool pins, tension dials, thread
guides, and threading ports are color
coded for your convenience.
All gold color labels relate to threading
for chain and cover stitches.
All green color labels relate to threading
for overlock stitches.
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Lower Looper
1. With the presser foot up and machine lock button in the locked position. See fig. A page 19. Set the threading port selector lever to "L" for lower looper threading. See fig. B, page 19.
2. Place the thread cone or spool on the "LOWER LOOPER" spool pin on the thread stand. Slip the thread into
the telescopic antenna thread guide "L" directly above the spool. (See fig.C,page 19) Snap the thread into
the thread guide "L" at the top of the machine and through the slot above the front cover.(See fig. A).
3. Pull 18 inches (40cm) of thread through guide. Insert the end of the thread into the threading port "L" about
1 inch (2.5cm). Use the tweezers, if necessary, to insert the thread end more easily. see fig. E, page 21.
4. Depress the looper threading lever (fig. E page 21). If the thread does not go through the lower looper eye
with one push, depress the threading lever again until it does.
5. Clip the thread 4 inches (10cm) from the lower looper eye and leave it hanging loose.
6. Move the lock button release lever to the right.
Upper Looper
1. Set the upper looper positioning lever at "UP" position. See picture below for reference.
2. With the presser foot up and machine lock button in the locked position, see fig. A, page 19, set the threading port selector lever to "U" for upper looper threading. See fig. B, page 19.
3. Place the thread on the "UPPER LOOPER" spool pin on the thread stand. Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide "U" directly above the spool. (See fig. C, Page 19 for reference.) Snap the thread
into the thread guide "U" at the top of the machine and through the slot above the front cover. (See fig. A)
4. Pull 18 inches (40cm) of thread through guide. Insert the end of the thread into the threading port "U", about
1 inch (2.5cm). Use tweezers, if necessary, to insert the thread end more easily. See fig. E, page 21.
5. Depress the threading lever (fig. E page 21). If the thread does not go through the upper looper eye with one
push, depress the threading lever again until it does, and leave thread hanging loose.
6. Move the lock button release lever to the right.
Note:
Make sure that the upper looper positioning lever is always set in the "UP" position whenever you sew
overlock or combination stitches.(fig B)
1. With the presser foot up and machine lock button in the locked position, see fig. A page 19, set the threading port selector lever to "C" for chain looper threading. See fig. B, page 19.
2. Set the stitch selector lever to "D" position for easy threading of the chain looper tension dial.
3. Place the thread cone or spool on the "Chain Looper" spool pin. Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna
thread guide extension C directly above the spool. See fig. C, page19.
4. Insert the thread through the guide above the chain looper tension dial from right to left. Bring the thread
to the back and under the thread guide, then up and over the tension dial. See fig.D inset.
5. Put thread into guide on front of dial, then down to the chain looper threading port.
6. Pull 18 inches (40cm) of thread and insert 1 inch (10cm) of thread into the chain looper threading port. Use
tweezers if necessary, to insert the thread end. see fig. E.
7. Depress the looper threading lever. See fig. E. If the thread does not go through the chain looper eye with
one push, depress the threading lever again until it does.
8. Open side cover to the left for easy access to the chain looper thread in tray. See fig. F.
9. Trim excess thread to 4 inches (10cm) from the eye of chain looper and leave it hang.
10. Close side cover.
11. Move the lock button release lever to the right.
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Chain Looper
D
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Left Chain/Cover Needle C-1
1. Raise presser foot, place the thread on the "Chain Needle 1" spool pin. Slip the thread into the telescopic
antenna thread guide "C1" directly above the spool. See drawings below for reference.
2. Bring thread down from the telescopic antenna thread guide into the far left chain/cover needle thread guide
"C1". Then insert thread into "C1" slot until thread clicks in. This seats the thread into the tension. Bring the
thread behind the front thread guide, up, over and down the right side of the thread take up lever.
3. Insert "C1" thread into pre-tension thread guide on needle clamp and into thread guide above the needle.
See drawings below for reference.
4. With the needle threader or tweezers in the accessory compartment, thread needle in "C1" position.
Center Chain/Cover Needle C-2
1. Raise presser foot, place the thread on the "Chain Needle 2" spool pin. Slip the thread into the telescopic
antenna thread guide "C2" directly above the spool. See drawings below for reference.
2. Bring thread down from the telescopic antenna thread guide into the center chain/cover needle thread guide
"C2". Then insert thread into "C2" slot until thread clicks in. This seats the thread into the tension. Bring the
thread behind the front thread guide, up, over and down the right side of the thread take up lever.
3. Insert "C2" thread into pre-tension thread guide on needle clamp and into thread guide above the needle.
See drawings below for reference.
4. With the needle threader or tweezers in the accessory compartment, thread needle in "C2" position.
Right Chain/Cover Needle C-3
1. Raise presser foot, place the thread on the "Chain Needle 3" spool pin. Slip the thread into the telescopic
antenna thread guide "C3" directly above the spool. See drawings below for reference.
2. Bring thread down from the telescopic antenna thread guide into the far right chain/cover needle thread guide
"C3". Then insert thread into "C3" slot until thread clicks in. This seats the thread into the tension. Bring the
thread behind the front thread guide, up, over and down the right side of the thread take up lever.
3.
Insert "C3" thread into pre-tension thread guide on needle clamp and into thread guide above the needle.
See drawings below for reference.
4. With the needle threader or tweezers in the accessory compartment, thread needle in "C3" position.
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Chain / Cover Needles
C1
C2
C3
C1
C2
C3
Overlock Needles
O1,O2
O1
O2
O1
O2
Left Overlock Needle - O-1
1. Place the thread on the "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 1" spool pin. See fig. C, page 19. Bring the thread end
through the telescopic guide directly above the thread. Bring the thread through thread guide at top of
machine and down the "overlock needle I" thread path and in the guide just below the faceplate. Pull an 8
inch (20.5cm) length of thread through the guide. Follow the arrows as shown in the illustration. Thread the
guides above the needle.
2. Using the needle threader or tweezers, thread into the eye of O-1 needle.
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Right Overlock Needle - O-2
1. Place the thread on the "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 2" spool pin. See fig. C, page 19. Bring the thread end
through the telescopic guide directly above the thread. Bring the thread through thread guide at top of
machine and down the "overlock needle 2 "thread path and in the guide just below the faceplate. Pull an 8
inch (20.5cm) length of thread through the guide. Follow the arrows as show in the illustration. Thread the
guides above the needle.
2. Using the needle threader or tweezers, thread the eye of O-2 needle.
Note: Make sure that each needle is set for overlock stitching; right needle is O-2 and left needle is O-1.
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Use the marks on your serger's front cover to align the fabric the desired seam width.
Set the width dial at the "M" setting for accurate seam allowances.
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How To Use The Needle Threader
A
B
1. Hold the needle threader with the arrow mark on
top. Place the thread in the groove of the needle
threader. (fig.A)
2. Push the needle threader against needle and
slide down the groove of the needle to the eye.
Push the thread into the eye of the needle.
3. With a point of the needle threader or the tweezers pull the loop of thread from the back of the
needle, under the foot and to the back left.
Front Cover Seam Guide
1. The chain stitch (C-3) combined with the 3 thread
overlock is the most common 5-thread combination.
The mark closest to the needles indicates 5/8 inch
(16mm) from the cutting edge to the C-3 chain needle.
2. When using the left overlock needles (O-1) for either
a 3 or 4 thread overlock seam, the second mark from
the needles indicates 5/8 inch (16mm) from the cut
-
ting edge to the O-1 overlock needle.
3. Use the right overlock needle (O-2) for 3 thread overlock seam and the third mark from the needles indi
cates 5/8 inch (16mm) from the cutting edge to the
O-2 overlock needle.
4. Other marks on the front cover are for any custom
seam allowance.
Note: Be sure to set the width dial at the "M" setting for accurate seam allowances.
Start to Sew
T
When threading is complete, the loose threads should initially interlock on fabric. This is most important when
sewing the chain or cover stitches.
1. Cut all threads to 4 inch (10cm) in length.
2. Place fabric under the presser foot directly below the needles
(fig. A).
A
3. Lower the presser foot.
4. Turn the handwheel toward you to form 2 or 3 stitches.
5. Start to sew slowly.
6. After the first few stitches, stop and cut excess threads (fig. B).
B
7. Start the next seam at the toe of the presser foot (fig. C).
8. You only need to raise and lower the presser foot when working
with thick fabrics or when precise positioning is required.
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Note: Be careful not to push or pull the fabric. The evolve will feed it
C
evenly without help.
To Chain-Off of the Fabric
Your evolve will sew a chain off the edge of the fabric. For best results, we recommend to follow the instruc-
tions below.
Overlock stitches-
1. At the end of the seam, gently pull the fabric and thread to the back to chain-off (fig. A).
2. When the desired length is reached, cut the thread chain with the thread cutter located on the left side cover (fig.
B).
3. Start the seam by placing the fabric under the front of the foot (fig. C).
Chain/Cover stitches-
1. At the end of the seam, change the stitch length to 4 and chain needle tension set at a range from 2 to 0.
2. Let the thread flow from the back of the foot 2-4 inches without pulling.
3. Start the seam by placing the fabric under the front of the foot.
A B C
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Clearing the Stitch Width Fingers
A
B
C
Re-threading Loopers
If a thread breaks, raise the presser foot and pull the broken thread from under the foot. Open the front cover,
depress the machine lock button and set the looper threader selector to U, L, or C for the looper being threaded. Re-thread the machine above the threading port, leaving an 18inch (40cm) thread tail. Thread the looper as usual and move lock button release lever to the right. Close the front cover and sew a test sample.
Note: When re-threading your Baby Lock evolve using the "Jet-Air Threading" feature, make sure that the previous thread that was in the looper (tube) is completely removed. This will eliminate any chance of the previous thread obstructing the flow of the air when re-threading the machine.
As you sew, you will discover that maneuvering the fabric is different from
conventional sewing because the threads form around the stitch fingers
(fig. A).
To clear the stitch fingers, simply raise the presser foot, which releases all
threads. Raise the needle(s). Then pull the threads gently from behind the
foot (fig. B). The stitches are now released from the fingers (fig. C).
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