Baby Lock EVOLVE User Manual

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"IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS"

When using overlock machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed,

including the following.

Read all instructions before using this overlock machine.

DANGER- To reduce the risk of electric shock.

1. The overlock machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this overlock machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

2. Always unplug before replacing light bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 watts/110 volts in 110V/120V area. (15 watts 230 volts in 220V/240V area.)

WARNING- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.

1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the sewing machine is used by or near children.

2. Use this overlock machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

3. Never operate this overlock machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the overlock machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

4. Never operate the overlock machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the overlock machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

6. Do not use outdoors.

7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol "O" position which represents off, then remove plug from outlet.

9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the overlock machine needle.

11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong needle plate can cause the needle to break.

12. Do not use bent needles.

13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle(s) causing it to break.

14. Switch the overlock machine to the symbol "O" position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading looper, or changing presser foot, and the like.

15. Always unplug the overlock machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any of the user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

16. Keep fingers away from moving parts, especially the area near the blades.

17. Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance

with relevant National legislation relating to electrical / electronic products. If in doubt please cont

act your retailer for guidance.

18.

The appliance is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without

supervision.

19. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

"SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS"

"This overlock machine is intended for household use."

European Union only

Page 3

Welcome to the Baby Lock evolve

Your Baby Lock evolve provides chain stitching, cover stitching, and overlocking. The Baby Lock evolve has an exclusive "Thread Delivery System" that eliminates confusing tension adjustments. The evolve enables you to accomplish a perfect stitch with any type of thread on any type of fabric. You no longer need to guess at the correct tension adjustments.

Your Baby Lock evolve is a high-quality, dependable machine. It gives you the ability to seam, overcast and trim all in one operation. Fabrics and threads you previously avoided are now a joy to sew because the Baby Lock evolve handles all varieties with equal ease. With the Baby Lock evolve your creative options are endless and your time spent serging is more fulfilling and rewarding. With the "Instant Jet-Air Threading", even threading the evolve is a breeze.

With proper care and maintenance, your Baby Lock evolve promises years of high-quality, dependable performance and sewing pleasure. Keep this instruction manual as a step-by-step guide to become familiar with your Baby Lock evolve and expand your sewing horizons.

For additional product information and updates, visit our website at www. babylock. com.

Happy Sewing!

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T A B

L E

C O N

T E N

T S

Table of Contents

OVERVIEW...................................................................................................................... 4

How Your Machine Operates.................................................................................. 4

Overview of the evolve ........................................................................................... 5

Accessories ............................................................................................................ 6

Needles .................................................................................................................. 7

Thread .................................................................................................................... 7

Optional Accessories.............................................................................................. 7

Setting Up Your evolve ........................................................................................ 8/9

Cutting Blade Lock Switch.................................................................................... 10

Cutting Blade Cover and Sewing Table................................................................ 10

Upper Looper Positioning Lever........................................................................... 10

Thread Cutter........................................................................................................ 11

Presser Foot Pressure Adjustment.......................................................................

Snap-on Presser Foot........................................................................................... 11

Stitch Length / Rolled Hem

................................................................................... 12

Stitch Width........................................................................................................... 12

Differential Feed ................................................................................................... 13

Overlock

Thread Delivery System........................................................................ 14

Stitch Selector Lever............................................................................................. 14

Wave Selector Lever ............................................................................................ 14

Side Cover............................................................................................................ 14

Chain/Cover Stitch Tension Dials ......................................................................... 15

Needle Tension Dial.............................................................................................. 15

Chain Looper Tension Dial.................................................................................... 15

2-Thread Subsidiary Looper................................................................................. 16

Upper and Lower Looper Thread Fine-Tuning Screw.......................................... 16

Notes ....................................................................................................................

THREADING.................................................................................................................. 18

Threading Preparation.......................................................................................... 18

Threading Your evolve.......................................................................................... 19

Locked Position for Threading.............................................................................. 19

Thread Stand and Thread Port Reference Chart..................................................

Lower Looper........................................................................................................ 20

Upper Looper........................................................................................................ 20

Chain Looper........................................................................................................ 21

Chain/Cover Needles ........................................................................................... 22

Lef

t Chain/Cover Needle - C-1 ............................................................... 22

Center Chain/Cover Needle - C-2 .......................................................... 22

Right Chain/Cover Needle - C-3............................................................. 22

Overlock Needles ................................................................................................. 23

Left Overlock Needle - O-1..................................................................... 23

Right Overlock Needle - O-2 .................................................................. 23

How to Use the Needle Threader......................................................................... 24

Front Cover Seam Guide...................................................................................... 24

Start to Sew.......................................................................................................... 25

To Chain-Of

f of the Fabric..................................................................................... 25

Clearing the Stitch Width Fingers......................................................................... 26

Re-threading Loopers........................................................................................... 26

OVERLOCK STITCHES - Express Stitches................................................................ 27

4-Thread Overedging ........................................................................................... 27

Overlock Seam..................................................................................................... 27

4-Thread Overlock................................................................................................ 28

3-Thread Overlock - Wide .................................................................................... 29

3-Thread Overlock - Narrow................................................................................. 30

3-Thread Overlock - Narrow Hemming................................................................. 31

Rolled Edging ....................................................................................................... 32

3-Thread Rolled Edge .......................................................................................... 32

Seaming Sheers................................................................................................... 33

Lettuce Edge ........................................................................................................ 33

Belt Loops and Button Loops................................................................................ 33

Returning to Standard Serging............................................................................. 33

3-Thread Flatlock - Narrow................................................................................... 34

2-Thread Overlock................................................................................................ 35

Page 5

Table of Contents (Cont.)

Converting from 3-thread to 2-thread overlock..................................................... 35

2-Thread Flatlock - Wide ...................................................................................... 36

2-Thread Flatlock - Narrow

Blanket Stitch - Decorative Stitch.......................................................................... 38

Ladder Stitch - Decorative Stitch .......................................................................... 39

Wave Stitch........................................................................................................... 40

Converting from Normal Serging to Wave............................................................ 40

3-thread Wave Stitch ............................................................................................ 41

3-thread Rolled Wave Stitch ................................................................................. 42

3-thread Reversed Wave Stitch............................................................................ 43

CHAIN/COVER STITCH - Express Stitches................................................................ 44

Chain Stitching

Cover Stitch - Right Narrow - 3mm.................................................................

Cover Stitch - Left Narrow - 3mm....................................................................

Cover Stitch - Wide - 6mm............................................................................... 50/51

Triple Cover Stitch - 6mm ................................................................................ 52/53

Triple Cover Stitch

COMBINATION STITCH - Expressive Stitches........................................................... 54

4-Thread Safety Stitch..................................................................................... 54/55

5-Thread Safety Stitch.....................................................................................

7-Thread Wave Stitch ...................................................................................... 58/59

7-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch...................................................................... 60/61

8-Thread Stitch................................................................................................ 62/63

Expressive Stiches: Chain/Cover Stitches combined with Overlock Stitches........

Expressive Combinations................................................................................ 64/65

TECHNIQUES................................................................................................................ 66

Turning Corners - Chain Stitch ............................................................................. 66

Turning Corners - Cover Stitch ............................................................................. 66

Turning Outside Corners - Overlock..................................................................... 67

urning Inside Corners - Overlock........................................................................ 67

Flat Hemming - Cover Stitch................................................................................. 68

Hemming in the Round - Cover Stitch.................................................................. 68

Blind Hemming - Overlock.................................................................................... 69

Sewing Curves - Overlock.................................................................................... 69

Inserting Tapes - Overlock.................................................................................... 70

Inserting Tapes - Cover Stitch............................................................................... 70

Flatlock "Decorative" - Overlock........................................................................... 71

Securing Ends - Overlock................................................................................ 72/73

Securing Chain and Cover Stitching

Notes .................................................................................................................... 75

SPECIALTY THREADS................................................................................................. 76

Using Specialty Threads....................................................................................... 76

Light-weight Threads

Medium-weight Threads.............................................................................. 76

Heavy-weight Threads................................................................................ 76

Bypassing the Threading Port.............................................................................. 77

Looper Threading Tool.......................................................................................... 78

Thread Cradle for Loopers

Specialty Thread Guide Chart ......................................................................... 80/81

MAINTENANCE............................................................................................................. 82

Troubleshooting............................................................................................... 82/83

Replacing Needles ............................................................................................... 84

Replacing Cutting Blades

Replacing Light Bulb............................................................................................. 85

Cleaning ............................................................................................................... 86

TECHNICAL DATA ........................................................................................................ 87

Technical dat

STITCH SELECTION CHART....................................................................................... 88

Chart for Stitch Selection Setting for Chain/Cover and Combination Stitches. 88/89

................................................................................................. 44/45

Chain Stitch - Tension Adjustment......................................................... 45

Cover Stitch Tension Adjustment............................................................ 47

Cover Stitch Tension Adjustment............................................................ 49

Cover S

titch Tension Adjustment ............................................................ 51

a....................................................................................................... 87

................................................................................... 37

46/47 48/49

Tension Adjustment.................................................. 53

56/57

..................................................................... 74

................................................................................... 76

................................................................................... 79

..................................................................................... 85

A B

C O N

T E

T S

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O V E R V

How Your Machine Operates

Sometimes called an overlock machine or overlocker, the serger is different from any conventional sewing machine you have used. Awareness of its simple operation will enable you to become more proficient in its use. Please read all instructions before using your new machine.

A serger is kind of a knitting process that loops two, three or four threads together to create a stitch.

Your Baby Lock evolve operates with one or two needles in the overlock position and one or two loopers to form an overlock stitch. Use one, two or three chain/cover stitch needles and one looper for a chain or cover stitch. Uniquely independent of each other, you can use any of the overlock or chain/cover stitch selections separately or in combination.

When fabric is placed in front of the presser foot, it reaches the feed dogs first. The feed dogs move the fabric along as the cutting blades trim the fabric edge, creating a clean edge to be finished. Or disengage your blade and insert the sewing table to sew a chain stitch in the center of your fabric.

The overlock stitch is supported by one or more parallel "stitch finger(s)" that keep the fabric flat. To form an overlock stitch, the threads become "locked" "over" the edge of the fabric encasing the raw edge with thread to prevent fabric raveling. When forming a chain stitch, the chain needle thread catches the chain looper to form a straight stitch on the top of your fabric and thread chain loops on the underside. Use 2 or 3 cover stitch needles and the chain looper to form a double or triple row of straight stitching on the top and a weave of thread on the underside of your fabric.

After setting up your machine for the first time, take a few moments to learn how it sews. Before your machine is threaded, turn the handwheel toward you and watch the operation of the various parts.

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Overview of the evolve

1. Upper looper positioning lever 19. Machine lock button

2. Presser foot adjusting screw 20. Looper threading lever

3. Presser foot thread release lever* 21. Chain looper threading port

4. Thread cutter 22. Differential feed adjusting lever

5. Chain/cover stitch needle tension dial 23. Handwheel

6. Needle height viewing area 24. Lower looper threading port

7. Needle clamp screws 25. Power switch

8. Snap-on presser foot 26. Looper threader selector

9. Needle plate 27. Overlock stitch selector

10. Stitch width adjusting dial 28. Accessory compartment & spool stand

11. Side cover 29. Upper looper threading port

12. Cutting blade lock switch 30. Chain/cover stitch looper tension dial

13. Stitch length/rolled hem adjusting dial 31. Carrying handle

14. Cutting blade cover 32. Wave Selector Lever

15. Needle drop drawer 33. Upper & Lower looper thread

16. Subsidiary looper fine-tuning screw

17. Front cover 34. Telescopic thread guide

18. Machine lock button release lever and antenna

* Raising the presser foot releases all threads.

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O V E R V

Accessories

Your Baby Lock evolve serger has a built-in accessory compartment. To open, swing the "lid" on the thread

spoolstand to the right to reveal the tray holding some of the accessories listed below. Others may be found

in the machine packing materials.

Accessory Number included Located in

Instruction manual 1 Packing box Quick reference threading guide 1 Packing box Instruction video tape (U.S.A. only) 1 Packing box Flat table for chain/cover stitching 1

Packing box Thread guide extension 1 Packing box Guide fixing screws for table

2 In flat table Lint brush/needle insert tool 1 Accessory compartment Package of assorted sized needles 1 Accessory compartment

Organ ELx705CF Allen screwdriver 1 Accessory compartment Tweezers 1 Accessory compartment Upper cutting blade for replacement 1 Accessory compartment Needle threader 1 Accessory compartment Overlock needle screws 2 Accessory compartment Chain/Cover stitch needle screws 2 Accessory compartment Looper threading tool 1 Accessory packet Screwdriver 1 Accessory packet Machine cover 1 Accessory packet Mounting bolt with washer 1 Accessory packet Thread nets 8 Accessory packet Spool caps 8 Accessory packet Sponge disks 8 Accessory packet Cone holders

8 On machine

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Needles

Your Baby Lock evolve serger is set up to use either Schmetz or Organ ELx705CF needles size 90/14. This is suitable for most medium and heavyweight fabrics. For lightweight fabrics use size 80/12, ELx705CF nee dles. The ELx705CF needle is a semi-ballpoint design and is suitable for knits and wovens.

Thread

All types of thread may be used on your Baby Lock, but 100% long-staple polyester thread, crosswound on a cone, consistently provides the best stitch performance. Because the threads must pass through several thread guides at high speeds, they must be of uniform thickness and high strength with a minimum amount of linting.

Good-quality cotton or cotton-covered polyester threads sew well, though they produce more lint, creating the need to clean the machine more frequently. They work well for overedging and seaming, but they may be too weak or too fuzzy for the rolled edge. Poor grades of thread can result in frequent fraying, breaking and unbalanced stitches.

Threads of other fiber contents and weights may be used, depending on their strength and thickness. Testing will help you determine how easily they can pass through the thread guides, thread slots, needles and loopers.

Important Note: For maximum performance of the Baby Lock evolve, it is recommended to use "100% polyester-long fiber thread". Recommended brands are Maxi-Lock and Metrosene. This thread also performs best when used with many decorative threads for sewing specialty decorative techniques.

E R V

Optional Accessories

OVERLOCK OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES Beading Foot B5002-04A-C-E (BLE8-BF) Blindhem Foot B5002S06A-E (BLE8-BLHF) Elastic Applicator Foot B5002S09A-E (BLE8-EF) Lace Applicator Foot B5002S08A-E (BLE8-LF) Piping Foot/5mm Cording B5002-05A-C-E (BLE8-CF) Ruffling Foot B5002S07A-E (BLE8-RF)

CHAIN/COVER STITCH OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES Belt Loop Folder 3/4" B0421S12A-E (BLE8-S12) Belt Loop Folder 1-1/2" B0421S11A-E (BLE8-S11) Double Fold Bias Binder 28mm B0421S03A-E (BLE8-S3) Double Fold Bias Binder 36mm B0421S02A-E (BLE8-S2) Fabric Guide B0420S01A-E (BLE8-FG) Pintuck Foot w/2 Guides B5002-06A-C-E (BLE8-PTF) Plain Hemmer 1/4" B0421S07A-E Plain Hemmer 1/2" Single Downturn Feller 1/4" B0421S10A-E (BLE8-S10) Single Downturn Feller 5/8" B0421S08A-E (BLE8-S8) Single Downturn Feller 1" B0421S09A-E (BLE8-S9) Single Fold Bias Binder 28mm B0421S04A-E (BLE8-S4) Single Fold Bias Binder 40mm B0421S05A-E (BLE8-S5)

B0421S06A-E (BLE8-S6)

(BLE8-S7)

OTHER OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES Bulb Remover tool Top Stich Needle Size 90 (T-90B)

B7525-01A (262011)

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O V E R V

Setting Up Your evolve

1. Remove machine from box

After removing the packing materials from the box, gently lift your Baby Lock serger by grasping the handle provided on the top of the machine. Place the machine on a serger sewing table or any level surface that provides ample work area to the left. Place the foot controller in a pedal stay, if desired, and place it under the sewing table.

2. Plug in the machine

Plug the power cord into the machine first, then into a wall outlet. The power switch is located toward the back on the right side of the machine. Always make sure the power is off when the machine is not in use (fig. A). Available foot controller for U.S.A.: Model YC-482 or YC-420W.

3. Polarized plug

This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

4. Foot controller

The sewing speed of the machine is determined by the amount of pressure applied to the foot controller. When not in use, do not place anything on the foot controller, or the machine could start inadvertently and the controller or motor could burn out.

5. Spool pin extension table

To insert the spool pin extension: Place the pegs into the slots on the back of the main thread spool stand. Push the extension thread stand onto the main thread spool stand until it snaps into place (fig. B). To remove: Hold the back of the extension table with both hands. Raise it up and

out to release from the main thread

spool stand (fig. C).

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Setting Up Your evolve

6. Position the telescopic thread guide.

Raise the telescopic thread guide to its highest position. Rotate the shaft to the left and right until each section "clicks" into a locked position (fig. D).

7. Thread guide extension

To install: Snap & lower. Place plastic support of thread guide extension on top of main telescopic thread guide. Support the main guide with one hand and snap the extension guide to the back with your other hand (fig. D). Lower into position. To remove: Raise & pivot. Raise the plastic support straight up and pivot the back of the support up to release (fig. E).

8. Opening front cover

The front cover may be opened simply by placing your fingers behind the tab at the right side and pulling toward you (fig. F).

9. Opening Cutting blade cover

V E

To open the cutting blade cover, place your thumb against the tab, and slide the cover to the right. A slight pull toward you will allow the cover to swing down, providing access to the loopers, blades, and thread guides (fig. G).

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V E

Your machine is pre-set to sew an overlock with a chain stitch. The upper blade is engaged to cut the fabric while sewing. Of course, you may select to engage or disengage the cutting blade. You can change the blade cover to the sewing table and lock the upper looper down when sewing only the chain stitch.

down up

Cutting Blade Lock Switch

Cutting blade cover and sewing table

Upper looper positioning lever

To lock cutting blade down: Turn the dial clockwise 180 degrees to see "LOCK" on the top. The cutting blade will stay below the needle plate for non-cutting techniques.(Fig. A)

To re-engage cutting blade: Turn the cutting blade lock switch half of a turn counter-clockwise. The blade will start moving automatically when you start sewing.

Cutting blade cover can be changed to sewing table for chain/cover stitching. a) Open front cover and cutting blade cover.(See page 9, F & G) b) Gently pull toward you to unsnap cover (Fig. B) and snap sewing table into

place (Fig. C). c) Lower the upper looper positioning lever down (Fig.D). d) Close the sewing table door and then the front cover. (Fig. E)

When you change from overlocking to chain/cover stitching, you should also change the upper looper positioning lever to the "DOWN" position before you close the sewing table door. a) Turn the handwheel until upper looper is at its lowest position. b) Change the upper looper positioning lever to the "DOWN" position. (Fig. D) c) Close the sewing table door and then the front cover. (Fig. E)

Note:

Make sure the upper looper positioning lever is in the "UP" position prior

to locking the machine to thread the upper looper.

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Thread Cutter

There is a thread cutter located on the left side of your evolve. At the end of a seam, sew off the fabric edge and continue sewing to create a 5-6 inch (12.5-15cm) thread chain. Bring the chain of thread up and from the back to front through the thread cutter.

V E R V

Presser Foot Pressure Adjustment

The presser foot pressure has been preset at the factory and rarely needs adjustment. You may find it necessary, however, to decrease the pressure for thick fabrics or increase pressure for thin fabrics to feed more smoothly under the foot. Use a coin to turn the screw on top of the machine. To increase pressure, turn the pressure adjusting screw clockwise. To decrease pressure, turn the screw counterclockwise.

Snap-On Presser Foot

The evolve has the convenience of a snap-on presser foot. To Release:

1. Raise the presser foot lever.

2. Lock the cutting blade down.

3. Raise the needles to the highest position.

4. Push the presser foot release lever located at the back of the presser foot holder.

5. Carefully turn the presser foot clockwise 90 degrees.

6. Slide the presser foot to the rear to remove.

Presser Foot Release Lever

The presser foot that comes with the evolve has a tape sewing slot. Insert the tape or ribbon, into the slot in the front of the foot, then under the sole of the foot. (see page 70 for more instruction)

The raised markings on the toe of the foot are seam line guides. They indicate the needle positions to help guide your fabric for accurate seaming.

To Replace:

1. Raise the presser foot lever.

2. Lock the cutting blade down.

3. Raise the needles to the highest position.

4. Slide the foot from the left to right.

5. Align the bar of the foot with the groove in the holder.

6. Lower the presser foot lever to snap into place.

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V E R V

Stitch Length/Rolled Hem

Stitch Width

The stitch length / rolled hem adjusting dial is conveniently located just to the left of the front cover, near the base plate (fig. A). The dial shows two stitchlength ranges, each numbered from 1, for the shortest stitch, to 4 for the longest. As the dial indicates, one range is for standard sewing and one is for rolled edging or narrow seaming. Simply turn the dial aligning the desired setting with the indicator mark on the machine. A stitch length of 3mm, or about 10 stitches per inch is ideal for seaming and overedging most fabrics. For overedging or seaming very lightweight fabrics, you may prefer a shorter stitch length. When sewing heavier fabrics, you may choose to lengthen the stitch (fig. B).

The stitch width adjusting dial is located above the stitch length dial (fig. A). The stitch width displays two sets of numbers, indicating two width ranges. for overlock stitches. The larger numbers at each end of the dial, 5.5 and 7.5mm, denote the stitch width when the 0-1 (left hand) needle is in use. The smaller numbers, 3.0 and 5.0mm, apply when only the 0-2 (right-hand) needle is in use for forming a 3-thread stitch. The "M" setting (3.5) is for the rolled edge.

Adjusting the stitch width moves the upper cutting blade. It also moves the stitch fingers further apart or closer together for complete fabric support with any stitch width.

The stitch width is infinitely variable between either end of the range. Simply turn the dial aligning the desired setting with the indicator mark on the machine.

Use a wider stitch on loosely woven fabrics. You may prefer a narrower stitch

width on knits, tightly woven, or sheer fabrics (fig. B).

Page 15

Differential Feed

Your Baby Lock serger is equipped with differential feed.The set of feed dogs work independently in order to ensure smooth sewing on all fabrics.

When the differential feed adjusting lever, located at the machine's right, front edge is set on "N" for normal feeding, the feed dogs move the same distance. This is the setting to use for most fabrics and applications.

When the dial is set above "N" (fig.B), the front feed dog will feed more fabrics than the back. This is because the front feed dog moves at a greater distance than the back feed dogs. As a result, the fabric becomes compressed or eased, as the diagram on the front cover indicates. This can eliminate wavy seams in stretchy fabrics or those cut on the bias grain (fig.A).

At the maximum setting of 2.0 (fig. C), the differential feed can gather a lightweight fabric to nearly double fullness (fig. D). The front feed dog is actually feeding in twice as much fabric as the back feed dog is feeding out. To maximize the gathering effects, use the longest stitch length setting. Fabric weight will affect the gathering. Test stitch for desired results.

E R V

When the differential feed lever is set below "N" (fig. F), the front feed dog moves less distance than the back feed dog. This adjustment stretches the fabric slightly as it is sewn. The lower settings prevent puckers on lightweight fabric (fig. E), add more stretch to swim wear, active wear, and can be used to create a lettuce edge (see page 33).

Page 16

V E R V

Overlock Thread Delivery System

Stitch Selector Lever

Side Cover

The Baby Lock evolve revolutionizes the way a serger works with its exclusive overlock Thread Delivery System. You no longer have to manually adjust the tension settings for the type of overlock stitch you are sewing. Select the type of overlock stitch you wish to serge, the evolve will automatically feed the correct amount of thread through the needles, the loopers and thread guides to form a perfect stitch every time.

The stitch selector lever which controls the overlock thread delivery system for overlock stitching is located on the right side of the machine. Select appropriate setting, A, B, C, or D.

A - for overlock stitches using the left needle (O-1) and the looper

threads balanced.

B - for overlock stitches using the right needle (O-2) and the looper

threads balanced.

C - for narrow stitches with a short length and the looper threads bal-

anced.

D - for stitches that require a tight lower looper.

For best results, use setting B or C for WAVE stitching. See chart on last page for stitch selection settings.

Open side door on the left for easy access to the chain looper thread tray. Close door before sewing.

Wave Selector Lever

The Wave Selector lever shows "O" and "W". Select "O" for overlock

stitching. Select "W" for wave stitching

Page 17

Chain/Cover Stitch Tension Dials

The tension system of the chain and cover stitches are completely separate from the system being used on the overlock stitches. Unlike the thread delivery system of the overlock stitches, the tensions of the chain / cover stitch needles and chain looper are adjusted by dials located on the outer sides of your evolve.

Needle Tension Dial

The needle tension dial is located on the top left side of the machine. One tension dial controls all 3 of the chain/cover stitch needle selections. Normally set at "5", the dial can be turned from 0 - 9 to increase or decrease the tension on the chain/cover stitch needle threads. Increase the tension by turning the dial to a larger number. Decrease the tension by turning the dial to a smaller number. Align the number with the indicator mark on the front of the machine near the dial.

Chain Looper Tension Dial

V E

The chain looper tension dial is divided into 2 sections - Chain Stitch and Cover Stitch. The dial is located on the top right side of the machine. Align the selected tension setting with the indicator mark on the front right of the machine.

The Chain Stitch section of the looper tension dial has a tighter looper tension for sewing chain stitch. Select the row of stripes on the dial for chain stitching. The wider the stripe the tighter the chain looper tension.

The Cover Stitch section of the looper tension dial has a looser tension for sewing wide, narrow or triple cover stitches. Select the solid line on the dial for cover stitch tension settings. The closer to the wide horizontal mark indicates looser tension for cover stitching.

Page 18

V E R V

2-Thread Subsidiary Looper

Either needle thread may be engaged for 2-thread overlock sewing

1. Open the front cover and the blade cover, cut the upper looper thread just above the threading port (fig. A). Raise the presser foot and pull out the clipped thread from under the foot. Remove the upper looper thread from the machine.

2. Rotate the handwheel to bring the upper looper to its lowest position.

3. Rotate the subsidiary looper up and to the left (fig. B), insert the end into the upper looper eye (fig. C).

4. Close the blade cover and the front cover.

Upper and Lower Looper Thread Fine-Tuning

No adjustments are needed when sewing with most fabrics and threads on your Baby Lock evolve, but certain threads or fabrics may require minor fine-tuning of the looper delivery system to perfect your stitches. Increase or decrease the delivery of the looper threads with the upper and lower looper thread fine-tuning screw. With a screwdriver (found in accessory kit), turn the fine-tuning screw clockwise to tighten the looper threads equally. Turn the screw counter-clockwise to loosen the looper threads equally.

Ideal Stitch

Standard Position

Upper and lower

looper threads are

too loose.

Tighten the screw

(+)

loosen the screw (-)

Upper and lower

looper threads are

too tight.

Page 19

Notes:

Page 20

T H R E A D

Threading Preparation

When using threads on cones or king spools place the cone or spool securely over the cone holders furnished on your machine. To avoid bending the thread stand, you may need to place one hand under the stand while positioning the cone. The cone holders prevent the cone or spool from spinning, enabling the thread to feed evenly (fig.A).

Because threads for the serger feed from the top, standard spool threads can snag on the rough edges of many of these spools. That's why spool caps are furnished with your serger to provide a smooth surface that enables the thread to reel off freely. With the spool notch side down, insert a spool cap into the top of the spool (fig.B).

When using standard spool threads on your serger, replace the cone holders with the sponge disks furnished with your machine. These disks hold smaller spools securely and help the thread to reel off properly. With the sponge disk in place, put the capped spool on the spindle (fig.C).

Thread nets may be placed over threads that tend to slip off the bottom of the spool during sewing. Most threads do not require their use, but nets

often are necessary with nylon, rayon or silk threads (fig.D). Once it's on the spool, fold the net back on itself. Pull

thread from the top of spool to enable the thread to feed evenly (fig.E).

Standard sewing thread with spool cap.

Standard sewing thread with sponge disk and spool cap.

Thread net on thread.

Large spools with Cone Holders.

Pulling thread through thread net.

Page 21

T H R E A D

Threading Your evolve

Locked Position for Threading, Thread Stand and Thread Port Reference Chart

Your Baby Lock evolve is equipped with an exclusive "Instant Jet-Air Threading System" for fast, easy threading of the upper, lower, and chain loopers. One push of the "Jet-Air" threading lever will automatically thread the loopers. It is no longer necessary to use tweezers for threading the thread guides. If a looper thread breaks or runs out, just re-thread it. There is no need to follow threading sequence.

1. Open the front cover.

2. Raise the presser foot to release all threads.

3. Set the upper looper positioning lever in the ''UP' position.

4. Depress the machine lock button firmly. Rotate the machine handwheel slowly toward you until the button "snaps" into the locked position and the lock button release lever moves to the far left (fig.A).

Note: The evolve must be in the locked position when threading the loopers unless otherwise indicated.

The spool pins, tension dials, thread guides, and threading ports are color coded for your convenience.

All gold color labels relate to threading for chain and cover stitches.

All green color labels relate to threading for overlock stitches.

Page 22

T H R E A D

Lower Looper

1. With the presser foot up and machine lock button in the locked position. See fig. A page 19. Set the threading port selector lever to "L" for lower looper threading. See fig. B, page 19.

2. Place the thread cone or spool on the "LOWER LOOPER" spool pin on the thread stand. Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide "L" directly above the spool. (See fig.C,page 19) Snap the thread into the thread guide "L" at the top of the machine and through the slot above the front cover.(See fig. A).

3. Pull 18 inches (40cm) of thread through guide. Insert the end of the thread into the threading port "L" about 1 inch (2.5cm). Use the tweezers, if necessary, to insert the thread end more easily. see fig. E, page 21.

4. Depress the looper threading lever (fig. E page 21). If the thread does not go through the lower looper eye with one push, depress the threading lever again until it does.

5. Clip the thread 4 inches (10cm) from the lower looper eye and leave it hanging loose.

6. Move the lock button release lever to the right.

Upper Looper

1. Set the upper looper positioning lever at "UP" position. See picture below for reference.

2. With the presser foot up and machine lock button in the locked position, see fig. A, page 19, set the threading port selector lever to "U" for upper looper threading. See fig. B, page 19.

3. Place the thread on the "UPPER LOOPER" spool pin on the thread stand. Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide "U" directly above the spool. (See fig. C, Page 19 for reference.) Snap the thread into the thread guide "U" at the top of the machine and through the slot above the front cover. (See fig. A)

4. Pull 18 inches (40cm) of thread through guide. Insert the end of the thread into the threading port "U", about 1 inch (2.5cm). Use tweezers, if necessary, to insert the thread end more easily. See fig. E, page 21.

5. Depress the threading lever (fig. E page 21). If the thread does not go through the upper looper eye with one push, depress the threading lever again until it does, and leave thread hanging loose.

6. Move the lock button release lever to the right.

Note:

Make sure that the upper looper positioning lever is always set in the "UP" position whenever you sew

overlock or combination stitches.(fig B)

Page 23

1. With the presser foot up and machine lock button in the locked position, see fig. A page 19, set the threading port selector lever to "C" for chain looper threading. See fig. B, page 19.

2. Set the stitch selector lever to "D" position for easy threading of the chain looper tension dial.

3. Place the thread cone or spool on the "Chain Looper" spool pin. Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide extension C directly above the spool. See fig. C, page19.

4. Insert the thread through the guide above the chain looper tension dial from right to left. Bring the thread to the back and under the thread guide, then up and over the tension dial. See fig.D inset.

5. Put thread into guide on front of dial, then down to the chain looper threading port.

6. Pull 18 inches (40cm) of thread and insert 1 inch (10cm) of thread into the chain looper threading port. Use tweezers if necessary, to insert the thread end. see fig. E.

7. Depress the looper threading lever. See fig. E. If the thread does not go through the chain looper eye with one push, depress the threading lever again until it does.

8. Open side cover to the left for easy access to the chain looper thread in tray. See fig. F.

9. Trim excess thread to 4 inches (10cm) from the eye of chain looper and leave it hang.

10. Close side cover.

11. Move the lock button release lever to the right.

T H R

A D

I N G

Chain Looper

Page 24

Left Chain/Cover Needle C-1

1. Raise presser foot, place the thread on the "Chain Needle 1" spool pin. Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide "C1" directly above the spool. See drawings below for reference.

2. Bring thread down from the telescopic antenna thread guide into the far left chain/cover needle thread guide "C1". Then insert thread into "C1" slot until thread clicks in. This seats the thread into the tension. Bring the thread behind the front thread guide, up, over and down the right side of the thread take up lever.

3. Insert "C1" thread into pre-tension thread guide on needle clamp and into thread guide above the needle. See drawings below for reference.

4. With the needle threader or tweezers in the accessory compartment, thread needle in "C1" position.

Center Chain/Cover Needle C-2

1. Raise presser foot, place the thread on the "Chain Needle 2" spool pin. Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide "C2" directly above the spool. See drawings below for reference.

2. Bring thread down from the telescopic antenna thread guide into the center chain/cover needle thread guide "C2". Then insert thread into "C2" slot until thread clicks in. This seats the thread into the tension. Bring the thread behind the front thread guide, up, over and down the right side of the thread take up lever.

3. Insert "C2" thread into pre-tension thread guide on needle clamp and into thread guide above the needle. See drawings below for reference.

4. With the needle threader or tweezers in the accessory compartment, thread needle in "C2" position.

Right Chain/Cover Needle C-3

1. Raise presser foot, place the thread on the "Chain Needle 3" spool pin. Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide "C3" directly above the spool. See drawings below for reference.

2. Bring thread down from the telescopic antenna thread guide into the far right chain/cover needle thread guide "C3". Then insert thread into "C3" slot until thread clicks in. This seats the thread into the tension. Bring the

thread behind the front thread guide, up, over and down the right side of the thread take up lever.

Insert "C3" thread into pre-tension thread guide on needle clamp and into thread guide above the needle. See drawings below for reference.

4. With the needle threader or tweezers in the accessory compartment, thread needle in "C3" position.

T H R E A D

Chain / Cover Needles

Page 25

Overlock Needles

O1,O2

Left Overlock Needle - O-1

1. Place the thread on the "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 1" spool pin. See fig. C, page 19. Bring the thread end through the telescopic guide directly above the thread. Bring the thread through thread guide at top of machine and down the "overlock needle I" thread path and in the guide just below the faceplate. Pull an 8 inch (20.5cm) length of thread through the guide. Follow the arrows as shown in the illustration. Thread the guides above the needle.

2. Using the needle threader or tweezers, thread into the eye of O-1 needle.

T H R

A D

Right Overlock Needle - O-2

1. Place the thread on the "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 2" spool pin. See fig. C, page 19. Bring the thread end through the telescopic guide directly above the thread. Bring the thread through thread guide at top of machine and down the "overlock needle 2 "thread path and in the guide just below the faceplate. Pull an 8 inch (20.5cm) length of thread through the guide. Follow the arrows as show in the illustration. Thread the guides above the needle.

2. Using the needle threader or tweezers, thread the eye of O-2 needle.

Note: Make sure that each needle is set for overlock stitching; right needle is O-2 and left needle is O-1.

I N G

Page 26

Use the marks on your serger's front cover to align the fabric the desired seam width. Set the width dial at the "M" setting for accurate seam allowances.

T H R E A D

How To Use The Needle Threader

1. Hold the needle threader with the arrow mark on top. Place the thread in the groove of the needle threader. (fig.A)

2. Push the needle threader against needle and slide down the groove of the needle to the eye. Push the thread into the eye of the needle.

3. With a point of the needle threader or the tweezers pull the loop of thread from the back of the needle, under the foot and to the back left.

Front Cover Seam Guide

1. The chain stitch (C-3) combined with the 3 thread overlock is the most common 5-thread combination. The mark closest to the needles indicates 5/8 inch (16mm) from the cutting edge to the C-3 chain needle.

2. When using the left overlock needles (O-1) for either a 3 or 4 thread overlock seam, the second mark from the needles indicates 5/8 inch (16mm) from the cut

ting edge to the O-1 overlock needle.

3. Use the right overlock needle (O-2) for 3 thread overlock seam and the third mark from the needles indi

cates 5/8 inch (16mm) from the cutting edge to the O-2 overlock needle.

4. Other marks on the front cover are for any custom seam allowance.

Note: Be sure to set the width dial at the "M" setting for accurate seam allowances.

Page 27

Start to Sew

When threading is complete, the loose threads should initially interlock on fabric. This is most important when sewing the chain or cover stitches.

1. Cut all threads to 4 inch (10cm) in length.

2. Place fabric under the presser foot directly below the needles (fig. A).

3. Lower the presser foot.

4. Turn the handwheel toward you to form 2 or 3 stitches.

5. Start to sew slowly.

6. After the first few stitches, stop and cut excess threads (fig. B).

7. Start the next seam at the toe of the presser foot (fig. C).

8. You only need to raise and lower the presser foot when working with thick fabrics or when precise positioning is required.

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I N G

Note: Be careful not to push or pull the fabric. The evolve will feed it

evenly without help.

To Chain-Off of the Fabric

Your evolve will sew a chain off the edge of the fabric. For best results, we recommend to follow the instruc-

tions below.

Overlock stitches-

1. At the end of the seam, gently pull the fabric and thread to the back to chain-off (fig. A).

2. When the desired length is reached, cut the thread chain with the thread cutter located on the left side cover (fig. B).

3. Start the seam by placing the fabric under the front of the foot (fig. C).

Chain/Cover stitches-

1. At the end of the seam, change the stitch length to 4 and chain needle tension set at a range from 2 to 0.

2. Let the thread flow from the back of the foot 2-4 inches without pulling.

3. Start the seam by placing the fabric under the front of the foot.

A B C

Page 28

T H R E A D

Clearing the Stitch Width Fingers

Re-threading Loopers

If a thread breaks, raise the presser foot and pull the broken thread from under the foot. Open the front cover, depress the machine lock button and set the looper threader selector to U, L, or C for the looper being threaded. Re-thread the machine above the threading port, leaving an 18inch (40cm) thread tail. Thread the looper as usual and move lock button release lever to the right. Close the front cover and sew a test sample.

Note: When re-threading your Baby Lock evolve using the "Jet-Air Threading" feature, make sure that the previous thread that was in the looper (tube) is completely removed. This will eliminate any chance of the previous thread obstructing the flow of the air when re-threading the machine.

As you sew, you will discover that maneuvering the fabric is different from conventional sewing because the threads form around the stitch fingers (fig. A).

To clear the stitch fingers, simply raise the presser foot, which releases all threads. Raise the needle(s). Then pull the threads gently from behind the

foot (fig. B). The stitches are now released from the fingers (fig. C).

Page 29

4-Thread Overedging

Overedging to finish facings, hems and seams before construction, is one of the most basic uses of a serger, such as making a garment or project with 5/8 inch (16mm) pressed open seams (fig. A).

To overedge, place the single layer of fabric in front of the presser foot, aligning the cut edge with upper cutting blade. Begin sewing, continuing to guide the fabric along the blade. The edge of the fabric should be trimmed, but not cut away. Then sew the seams on your conventional sewing machine and press them open as usual (fig. B).

Because notches would be cut away in this process, mark them before sewing with "V" snips just inside the seam allowance or with a water-soluble fabric marker (fig. C).

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Note: A 2-thread overlock or 3-thread overlock can also be used with this technique.

Overlock Seam

For garments or projects that do not require conventional pressed-open seams, you can stitch and finish the seam in one operation and then press the seams to one side (fig. A). A 4 or 3-thread seam is strong, yet it provides "give" or flexibility according to the needs of the fabric.

Place two layers of fabric right sides together. Use the marks on your serger's front cover to align the fabric for the desired seam width. Keep your eye on the fabric edge to guide it to the appropriate mark (fig. B).

Do not watch the needle. If you guide the fabric accurately, the needle will seam in the correct place automatically.

Note: For most seaming, pins are unnecessary because the serger feeds the fabric evenly. If you need pins, place the pins parallel to the seam line outside the seam allowance to avoid damaging the blades.

T C H

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Page 30

With the evolve overlock Thread Delivery System, the upper and lower looper threads lock together evenly over the cut fabric edge(s) to form a flat, non-rolling pattern of overlocking stitches on both sides of the fabric.

The left (O1) needle thread interlocks with both looper threads at the stitching line to create the seam. The right (O2) needle thread, visible on the top side of the stitch, interlocks with both the loopers to add durability. The thread, that resembles a zigzag on the upper side of the fabric, is from the upper looper. The thread, that resembles a zig zag on the lower side of the fabric, is from the lower looper.

Move the stitch selector lever to "A".

For the perfect 4-thread overlock stitch, follow the suggested settings and threading diagram below.

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T C H E S

E X P R E S S

4-Thread Overlock

NEEDLES

O-1, O-2

LENGTH

2.5 - 3.5

WIDTH

6.5 - 7.5

STITCH

SELECT

WAVE

SELECTOR

Page 31

3-Thread Overlock - Wide

The 3-thread overlock wide stitch is perfect for edge-finishing most woven fabrics and for seaming knits that do not require the extra durability that a fourth thread provides.

V E

NEEDLES

O-1

To convert your serger to a 3-thread overlock wide (5.5-7.5mm), cut the O-2 needle thread just above the needle eye (fig. A). Remove the O-2 needle and thread completely from the machine. Re-tighten the needle

clamp screw slightly to prevent the screw from working out (fig. B).

Move the stitch selector lever to "A".

For O-1 needle, 3-thread overlock, follow the suggested settings and the threading diagram below.

AVE

LENGTH

2 - 3

WIDTH

7.5

STITCH

SELECTOR

L O C

S T

T C H

P R

Page 32

To convert to narrow 3-thread overlock (3.0-5.0mm), cut the O-1 needle thread (fig. A). Remove the O-1 needle and O-1 needle thread completely from the machine. Tighten the needle clamp screw slightly to prevent the screw from working out (fig. B). Place needle into O-2 needle clamp position and tighten screw. Move the stitch selector lever to "B".

For the O-2 needle, 3-thread overlock sewing, follow the suggested

settings and the threading diagram below.

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T C H E S

E X P R E S S

3-Thread Overlock - Narrow

NEEDLES

O-2

LENGTH

2.5 - 3.5

WIDTH

3.0

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

Page 33

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3-Thread Overlock - Narrow Hemming

Narrow Hemming is an attractive finish for light to medium weight fabrics.

Remove the O-1 needle and needle thread completely from the machine. Clear the stitch fingers. Turn the stitch length adjusting dial clockwise to the rolled hem range. Set the length at "1" (fig. A) and the stitch width at 3.0 (fig. B) for a smooth decorative finish.

Move the stitch selector lever to "C".

For the O-2 needle 3-thread narrow hemming, follow the suggested settings and the threading diagram below.

NEEDLES

O-2

LENGTH

1.0 - 1.5R

WIDTH

3.0

STITCH

SELECTOR

AVE

SELECTOR

Page 34

The rolled edge setting is used to achieve the narrowest stitch possible (1.5mm) on your Baby Lock serger. The stitch is suitable for seaming sheer and lightweight fabrics and for edging and hemming lightweight fabrics.

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Rolled Edging

3-Thread Rolled Edge

With the stitch selector set on "D", a narrow hem can become a rolled edge. The fabric edge rolls around the stitch finger. The upper looper wraps the fabric edge while the lower looper thread is nearly invisible on the back side of the stitch formation.

Remove the 0-1 needle and thread. Clear the stitch fingers. Turn the stitch length adjusting dial clockwise into the rolled hem range and set the dial at 1.5 (fig. A). Set the stitch width dial to 3.5 "M" (fig. B).

For a 3-thread rolled edge, Move the stitch selector lever to "D".

NEEDLES

O-2

LENGTH

1.5R

WIDTH

3.5

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

Page 35

Seaming Sheers

Use the 3-thread rolled hem setting when sewing sheer fabrics. Set the stitch length at 2.5. Sew the seams, aligning the fabric edge with the serger's seam guides, trimming away the excess seam allowance.

Lettuce Edge

A frilly or "lettuce" edge can be created on most light and medium weight stretch and on bias edges of soft, woven fabrics. It makes a pretty decorative edging for activewear, lingerie, accessories and children's wear.

Set the machine for the 3-thread rolled edge. Set differential feed at 0.6 (fig. B). Sew the fabric in the direction of greatest stretch-the crossgrain on knits, bias grain on wovens. For a "leafier" effect, try using a shorter stitch length and gently stretch the fabric (fig. A) as it is being sewn. Sew a test sample (fig. C).

Note:To avoid the stitching from pulling away from the fabric, increase the width to a slightly larger number.

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Belt Loop

Use the rolled edge thread chain, stitched without fabric, to make professional belt loops and button loops. Using heavier decorative thread gives a stronger loop.

s and Button Loops

Returning to Standard Serging

Clear the stitch fingers and return the stitch length dial to the standard range. Set stitch width and length at the desired settings. Replace the left needle and its corresponding thread, if desired.

P R

Page 36

Flatlock seams are most suited to fabrics which do not ravel such as interlock knits, tricot, sweatshirt fleece and synthetic suede. The needle thread is carried below the fabric and to the cut edge of the fabric. The lower looper thread rides along the cut edge of the fabric for stability. The edges pull open and flatten within the stitch for a non-bulky join (fig. A). Be sure to sew a test sample first to determine whether the stitch will have the strength to hold the seam without the fabric pulling away.

Move the stitch selector lever to "D".

For the O-2 needle 3-thread flatlock, follow the suggested settings

and the threading diagram below.

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T C H E S

E X P R E S S

3-Thread Flatlock - Narrow

NEEDLES

O-2

LENGTH

2 - 3

WIDTH

3.0 - 3.5

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

Page 37

2-Thread Overlock

The 2-thread function provides an economical and less bulky means of overedging all fabrics. The standard 2-thread overlock is the same as a 2-thread flatlock stitch. When sewn with specialty threads, 2-thread sewing makes decorative seams and edges for activewear, children's clothing , ruffles, and hemlines.

Converting from 3-thread to 2-thread Overlock

Either overlook needle may be engaged for 2-thread overlock sewing.

1. Open the front cover and the blade cover. Cut the upper looper thread just above the threading port (fig. A).

2. Raise the presser foot and remove the upper looper and needle threads from the machine.

3. Rotate the handwheel to bring the upper looper into position to attach the subsidiary looper. Rotate the subsidiary looper up and to the left (fig.B) then slip the end into the upper looper eye. (fig.C)

4. Place the left needle thread on the "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 1" spool pin (or right needle thread on the "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 2" spool pin) and bring the thread through the telescopic thread guide directly above the spool of thread. Bring the thread through the top thread guide that is normally used for the upper looper (3rd from left), and down the front of the machine. Then take the thread to the left and thread the machine as you would for the needles in their normal position. (See illustration on page 36 and 37 for correct threading).

5. Using the needle threader in the accessory compartment, thread the eye of left needle O-1, (or right needle O-2). Place the looper and needle threads under the presser foot and to the back.

6. Close the cutting blade cover and front cover.

7. The needle and lower looper threads should overcast evenly on the cut edge of the fabric.

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Page 38

When sewn on a fold, flatlocking can create a decorative effect within the body of a garment or project. Either follow placement lines on your pattern or design your own special effects by stitching the fabric before laying out pattern pieces. Then open the fabric fold until the flatlock stitching lies flat (fig. A).

Be sure to sew a test sample first.

For 2-thread flatlock - wide

1.Lock the machine.

2.Place the needle thread on the "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 1" spool pin.

3.Thread needle thread through the upper looper thread guide on top of the machine, then go down the thread path in the front of the machine. Go left with the needle thread at the hook on front of the machine. Then take the needle thread through the normal needle thread paths (see illustration below).

4.Turn the cutting blade to the "locked" position.

5.Engage the subsidiary looper following step 3 on page 35.

6.Thread the lower looper as shown in the illustration below.

7.Unlock the machine.

For "loops" (lower looper thread) to show on the right side, place fabric wrong sides together for sewing the seam. To produce the "ladder" (needle thread) on the outside, place the fabric right sides together (fig. B).

Position the fabric under the presser foot, aligning the fold of the fabric 1/8 inch (3.5mm) to the left of the upper cutting blade.

Note:

If the fabric does not pull completely flat under the stitches, guide the fabric fold to the left so that the

loops hang slightly off the fold as they are being stitched (fig.C).

Move the stitch selector lever to "A" and follow the suggested settings and threading diagram below.

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T C H E S

E X P R E S S

2-Thread Flatlock - Wide

Looper thread

Needle thread

NEEDLES

O-1

LENGTH

2 - 2.5

WIDTH

7.5

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

Page 39

2-Thread Flatlock - Narrow

Sew a 2-thread flatlock seam then pull the two fabric layers apart until the seam lies flat (fig. A). Because the threads show on the outside as well as the inside of the garment or project, the flatlock seam is often considered a decorative application (fig. B).

V E

For 2-thread flatlock - narrow

1. Lock the machine.

2. Place needle thread on "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 2" spool pin.

3. Thread needle thread through the upper looper thread guide on top of the machine, then go down the thread path in the front of the machine. Go left with the needle thread at the hook on front of the machine. Then take the needle thread through the normal needle thread paths (see illustration below).

4. Engage the subsidiary looper following step 3 on page 35.

5.Thread the lower looper as shown in the illustration below.

6.Unlock the machine.

Before sewing, select stitch pattern you want to have on the outside of the garment. For "loops" (lower looper thread) to show, place fabric wrong sides together for sewing the seam (fig. C). To produce the "ladder" (needle thread) on the outside, place the fabric right sides together (fig. D).

For 2-thread flatlock-narrow, follow the suggested settings and the threading diagram below.

Wrong side

Needle Thread

Right Side

Loop

Looper Thread

Right Side

Wrong Side

Right Side

Wrong Side

Ladder

Wrong Side

Right Side

O C

S T

T C H

NEEDLES

O-2

LENGTH

3 - 3.5

WIDTH

3.5

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

P R

Page 40

V E R

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T C H E S

E X P R E S S

Blanket Stitch - Decorative Stitch

Set up the machine for 2-thread flatlock - wide but the needle threading path is different for this technique.

1. Insert a size 90 top stitch needle in left overlock needle position.

2. Lock the machine.

3. Place a heavy decorative thread that will be used in the needle on "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 1" spool pin and thread the needle thread through upper looper thread path. (See below illustration.)

4. Unlock the machine, pull the thread out of the upper looper tube and continue to thread the needle as illustrated.

5. Thread Maxilock thread in the lower looper.

6. Swing the subsidiary looper into place on the upper looper.

7. Place water-soluble stabilizer on top of the fabric, along the edge.

8. Stitch along the edge of the fabric (fig.A).

9. When finished stitching, pull the water-soluble stabilizer to the edge

of the fabric (fig.B). This will pull the stitching to the edge and will look like a blanket stitch (fig.C).

Follow the suggested settings below.

NEEDLES

O-1

size 90 Top Stitch

Needle

LENGTH

4.0

WIDTH

7.5

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

Page 41

Ladder Stitch - Decorative Stitch

Set up the machine for 2-thread flatlock - wide but the needle threading path is different for this technique.

1. Insert a size 90 top stitch needle in left overlock needle position.

2. Lock the machine.

3. Place a heavy decorative thread that will be used in the needle on "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 1" spool pin and thread the needle thread through upper looper thread path. (See below illustration.)

4. Unlock the machine, pull the thread out of the upper looper tube and continue to thread the needle as illustrated.

5. Thread Maxilock thread in the lower looper.

6. Swing the subsidiary looper into place on the upper looper.

7. Place the fabric pieces right sides together for the decorative ladder to be on the right side of the fabric.(This can also be done on the fold as well.)

8. Sew the fabric together and gently pull open; revealing the decorative ladder stitching on the right side of the fabric.

Right Side

Wrong Side

Ladder

Wrong Side

Right Side

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Follow the suggested settings below.

NEEDLES

O-1

size 90 Top Stitch

Needle

LENGTH

4.0

WIDTH

7.5

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

T C H

P R

Page 42

V E R

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T C H E S

E X P R E S S

Wave Stitch

Converting from Normal Serging to Wave

The Wave Stitch provides a decorative "wavy" edging on fabric. (This is not to be confused with "Lettuce Edge" on page 33). The upper looper thread and the lower looper thread gradually appear every 25 stitches to create a stitch that looks like a "Wave". When using different color specialty threads (see pages 76 & 77) for the upper or lower loopers, the Wave stitch creates an attractive stitch for edging. When combining decorative threads for the Wave stitch, please sew test on a sample of the fabric you will be sewing on before applying the Wave stitch. For best results, heavier decorative threads should be limited to the upper or lower looper at one time. Not both upper looper and lower looper at the same time. Wooly nylon in the corresponding looper and maxilock thread in the right needle will make a striking combination with the heavy decorative thread.

1. Move the Wave Selector lever from "O" to "W".

2. Cut the threads from the thread cones and remove from the thread paths.

3. Lock the machine for threading the loopers. (See page 19).

4. Place the right needle thread cone on the OVERLOCK NEEDLE 2 spool pin.

5. Slip the right needle thread into the telescopic thread guide directly above the thread. Follow the left overlock needle threading path down to the right overlock needle.

6. Thread the O-2 needle using the needle threader. (See page 24.)

7. Place the upper looper thread cone on the upper looper spool pin.

8. Slip the upper looper thread into the telescopic thread guide directly above the thread. Follow the top threading path for the right overlock needle thread, down the front threading path, to the left of the chrome thread guide, and directly to the "U" jet air threading port for the upper looper. Set the Looper Threader Selector on "U". Thread the upper looper. (See page 20.)

9. Place the needle thread and upper looper thread under the presser foot and to the back.

10. Place the lower looper thread cone on the lower looper spool pin.

Take the thread through the standard lower looper threading path

the "L" jet air threading

port for the

lower looper. Set the Looper Threader Selector on "L". Thread the lower looper. (See page 20.)

12. Unlock the machine.

13. Set Stitch Selector for Wave Stitch or Rolled Wave Stitch. (See page 41 to 43 for correct settings.)

14. Set Stitch Length and Stitch Width following the illustration on page 41, 42 or 43.

Page 43

3-thread Wave Stitch

1. Move the Wave Selector lever from "O" to "W".

2. Cut the threads from the thread cones and remove from the thread paths.

3. Lock the machine for threading the loopers. (See page 19.)

4. Place the right needle thread cone on the OVERLOCK NEEDLE 2 spool pin.

5. Slip the right needle thread into the telescopic thread guide directly above the thread. Follow the left overlock needle threading path down to the right overlock needle.

6. Thread the O-2 needle using the needle threader. (See page 24.)

7. Place the upper looper thread cone on the upper looper spool pin.

8. Slip the upper looper thread into the telescopic thread guide directly above the thread. Follow the top threading path for the right needle thread, down the front threading path, to the left of the chrome thread guide, and directly to the "U" jet air threading port for the upper looper. Set the Looper Threader Selector on "U". Thread the upper looper. (See page 20.)

9. Place the needle thread and upper looper thread under the presser foot and to the back.

10. Place the lower looper thread cone on the lower looper spool pin.

11. Slip the lower looper thread into the telescopic thread guide directly above the thread, then slip the thread into the chain looper telescopic thread guide to avoid the thread getting tangled while sewing. Take the thread through the standard lower looper threading path to the "L" jet air threading port for the lower looper. Set the Looper Threader Selector on "L". Thread the lower looper. (See page 20.)

12. Set Stitch Selector on "B" for Wave Stitch.

13. Set Stitch Length and Stitch Width following the illustration below.

V E

L O C

S T

NEEDLES

O-2

LENGTH

1.0 - 2.5

WIDTH

5.0

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

E S

E X P

E S S

Page 44

V E R

C K

T C H E S

E X P R E S S

3-thread Rolled Wave Stitch

1. Move the Wave Selector lever from "O" to "W".

2. Cut the threads from the thread cones and remove from the thread paths.

3. Lock the machine for threading the loopers (See page 19.)

4. Place the right needle thread cone on the OVERLOCK NEEDLE 2 spool pin.

5. Slip the right needle thread into the telescopic thread guide directly above the thread. Follow the left overlock needle threading path down to the right overlock needle.

6. Thread the O-2 needle using the needle threader. (See page 24.)

7. Place the upper looper thread cone on the upper looper spool pin.

9. Place the needle thread and upper looper thread under the presser foot and to the back.

10. Place the lower looper thread cone on the lower looper spool pin.

Take the thread through the

standard lower looper threading path

to the "L" jet air threading port for the

lower looper. Set the Looper Threader Selector on "L". Thread the lower looper. (See page 20.)

12. Set Stitch Selector on "C" for Rolled Wave Stitch.

13. Set Stitch Length and Stitch Width following the illustration below.

NEEDLES

O-2

LENGTH

1.0-1.5R

WIDTH

3.0-5.0

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

Page 45

3-thread Reversed Wave Stitch

You can also get the wave stitch in the back of fabric by crossing the upper and lower looper threads before the threading port. This Reversed Wave Stitch is attractive for expressive stitch with decorative cover stitches. (see figure A)

1. Move the Wave Selector lever from "O" to "W".

2. Cut the threads from the thread cones and remove from the thread paths.

3. Lock the machine for threading the loopers. (See page19.)

4. Place the right needle thread cone on the OVERLOCK NEEDLE 2 spool pin.

5. Slip the right needle thread into the telescopic thread guide directly above the thread. Follow the left overlock needle threading path down to the right overlock needle.

6. Thread the O-2 needle using the needle threader. (See page 24.)

7. Place the upper looper thread cone on the upper looper spool pin.

8. Slip the upper looper thread into the telescopic thread guide directly above the thread. Follow the top threading path for the right overlock needle thread, down the front threading path, to the left of the chrome thread guide, and directly to the "L" jet air threading port for the lower looper. Set the Looper Threader Selector on "L". Thread the lower looper. (See page 20.)

Note: This upper looper thread which goes into lower looper through "L" jet air threading port appears as

wave stitch in the back side of fabric.

9. Place the needle thread and thread from the lower looper under the presser foot and to the back.

10. Place the lower looper thread cone on the lower looper spool pin.

11. Slip the lower looper thread into the telescopic thread guide directly above the thread, then slip the thread into the chain looper telescopic thread guide to avoid the thread getting tangled while sewing. Take the thread through the standard lower looper threading path to the "U" jet air threading port for the upper looper. Set the Looper Threader Selector on "U". Thread the upper looper. (See page 20.)

12. Set Stitch Selector on "B" for Wave Stitch.

13. Set Stitch Length and Stitch Width following the illustration below.

Note: It is not recommended to use reversed rolled wave.

Wrong Side

Right Side

V E

L O C

S T

T C H

NEEDLES

O-2

LENGTH

1.0-2.5

WIDTH

5.0

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

P R

Page 46

The chain stitch is formed using two threads, one thread in the needle and one thread in the chain looper.

Chain Stitching looks like a straight stitch on the top of the fabric while the chain looper thread forms a chain on the underside of the fabric. The chain stitch has stretchability that is not found in the conventional locked straight stitch from a sewing machine. The chain stitch is used to stabilize seams in woven fabrics and where needed in knit fabrics. The chain stitch can also be used for sewing wide elastic in garments and applying bias tape.

For Chain Stitch:

1. Turn the cutting blade to the locked position.

2. Disengage the upper looper by turning the upper looper positioning lever to the "down" position.

3. Place the machine in locked position to thread the chain looper.

4. Select "C" threading port.

5. Follow the diagram to thread the chain looper. Open side cover of machine to make sure the thread is through the eye of the chain looper. Trim thread to 4 inches (10cm) and lay in tray.

6. Follow the guide to thread the chain/cover stitch needle, (C-1, C-2, or C-3). Place needle thread on top and to the left of presser foot before sewing.

7. Set stitch length and other machine adjustments (See chart below).

8. Move the lock button release lever to the right.

9. Remove the blade cover and attach sewing table. (See page 10.)

10. Place the fabric under the needle and turn handwheel toward you two or three stitches in the fabric. Cut the excess threads and start sewing.

Note: All chain and cover stitches must be started with fabric under the needle.

CHAIN STITCH

C H A

V E R

T C H

E X P R E S S

Chain Stitching

NEEDLES

C-1,C-2 or C-3

LENGTH

2.5 - 4.0

Set Needle Tension

Dial to:

Set Chain Looper

Tension Dial to:

Chain Stitch

Page 47

Balanced tension Chain stitch has correct tension when the needle thread sews a straight seam on the top side and the chain looper thread forms loops on the under side of the fabric.

Needle thread is too loose Turn the chain/cover needle thread tension dial to a higher number. Or turn the chain looper tension dial to a narrower dash for looser tension. (Narrow dashes are looser tension).

Needle thread is too tight Turn the chain/cover needle thread tension dial to a lower number. Or turn the chain looper tension dial to a wider dash for tighter tension. (Wider dashes are tighter tension).

C H

C O

V E

S T

T C H

P R

Chain Stitching - continued

Needle thread is too loose

Needle thread is too tight

*Tension Adjustment

Balanced tension

under side

top side

Page 48

The narrow cover stitch consists of two rows of straight stitching on the top side of the fabric with an overlock stitch on the underside of the fabric. This stitch is very common in the garment industry to hem knit garments. The narrow cover stitch is used on fine knits such as jersey and single knits for hemming or topstitching. The cover stitch is not limited to knit fabrics. It also works well with woven fabrics.

The Right Narrow cover stitch is formed using two "C" needle positions and the chain looper. The needle positions are C-2 and C-3. The width of the narrow cover stitch is 3mm.

For Cover Stitch:

1. Turn the cutting blade to the "locked" position.

2. Disengage the upper looper by turning the upper looper positioning lever to the "down" position.

3. Place the machine in locked position to thread the chain looper.

4. Select "C" threading port.

5. Follow the diagram to thread the chain looper (see page 21). Open the side cover of the machine to make sure the thread is through the eye of the looper. Trim thread to 4 inches (10cm) and lay in tray.

6. Follow the diagram to thread the chain/cover stitch needles C-2 and C-3 (see page 22). Place needle threads on top and to the left of presser foot before sewing.

7. Set stitch length and other machine adjustments necessary. (see chart below)

8. Move the lock button release lever to the right.

9. Remove the blade cover and attach the sewing table (see page 10).

10. Place the fabric under the needles and turn handwheel toward you two or three stitches into the fabric. Cut the excess threads and start sewing.

Note: All chain and cover stitches must be started with fabric under the needle.

COVER STITCH - RIGHT NARROW

C H A

V E R

T C H

E X P R E S S

Cover Stitch - Right Narrow - 3mm

NEEDLES

C-2 and C-3

LENGTH

2.5 - 4.0

Set Needle Tension

Dial to:

Set Chain Looper

Tension Dial to:

Cover Stitch

Page 49

Balanced tension Cover stitch has correct tension when the needle thread sews two rows of straight stitching on the top side and the chain looper forms a zig zag on the underside of the fabric.

Needle thread is too loose Turn the chain /cover needle thread tension dial to a higher number. Or turn the chain looper tension dial away from the wide dash at the words "Cover Stitch", but, staying within the solid gold line. This will tighten the chain looper thread on the under side of the stitch.

Needle thread is too tight For a looser tension turn the chain /cover needle thread tension dial to a lower number. Make sure that the chain looper tension dial is set at the solid dash at the words "Cover Stitch".

C H

C O

V E

S T

T C H

P R

Cover Stitch - Right Narrow continued

Balanced tension

Needle thread is too loose

Needle thread is too tight

*Tension Adjustment

under side

top side

Page 50

The narrow cover stitch consists of two rows of straight stitching on the top side of the fabric with the overlock stitch on the underside of the fabric. This stitch is very common in the garment industry to hem knit garments. The narrow cover stitch is used on fine knits such as jersey and single knits for hemming or topstitching. The cover stitch is not limited to knit fabrics. It also works well with woven fabrics.

The Left Narrow cover stitch is formed using two "C" needle positions and the chain looper. The needle positions are C-1 and C-2. The width of the narrow cover stitch is 3mm.

For Cover Stitch:

1. Turn the cutting blade to the locked position.

2. Disengage the upper looper by turning the upper looper positioning lever to the "down" position.

3. Place the machine in locked position to thread the chain looper.

4. Select "C" threading port.

5. Follow the diagram to thread the chain looper. Open the side cover of the machine to make sure the thread is through the eye of the looper. Trim thread to 4 inches (10cm) and lay in tray.

6. Follow the diagram to thread the chain/cover stitch needle positions C-1 and C-2. Place needle threads on top and to the left of presser foot before sewing.

7. Set stitch length and other machine adjustments necessary. (See chart below).

8. Move the lock button release lever to the right.

9. Remove the blade cover and attach the sewing table. (see page 10).

10. Place the fabric under the needles and turn handwheel toward you two or three stitches into the fabric. Cut the excess threads and start sewing.

Note: All chain and cover stitches must be started with fabric under the needle.

COVER STITCH - LEFT NARROW

C H A

V E R

T C H

E X P R E S S

Cover Stitch - Left Narrow - 3mm

NEEDLES

C-1 and C-2

LENGTH

2.5 - 4.0

Set Needle Tension

Dial to:

Set Chain Looper

Tension Dial to:

Cover Stitch

Page 51

Balanced tension Cover stitch has correct tension when the needle thread sews two rows of straight stitching on the top side and the chain looper forms a zig zag on the underside of the fabric.

C H

C O

V E

S T

T C H

P R

Cover Stitch - Left Narrow continued

Balanced tension

Needle thread is too loose

Needle thread is too tight

*Tension Adjustment

under side

top side

Page 52

The wide cover stitch consists of two rows of straight stitching on top the fabric with an overlock stitch on the underside of the fabric. This stitch is very common in the garment industry to hem heavier knit fabrics such as double knits, sweatshirt fleece, and polar fleece. The wide cover stitch is not limited to knit fabrics. It also works well with medium to heavy woven fabrics.

The wide cover stitch is formed using two "C" needle positions and the chain looper. The needle positions are C-1 and C-3. The width of the wide cover stitch is 6mm.

For Cover Stitch:

1. Turn the cutting blade to the "locked" position.

2. Disengage the upper looper by turning the upper looper positioning lever to the "down" position.

3. Place the machine in "locked" position to thread the chain looper. (see page.19).

4. Select "C" threading port.

5. Follow the diagram to thread the chain looper. Open the side cover of the machine to make sure the thread is through the eye of the looper. Trim thread to 4 inches (10cm) and lay in tray.

6. Follow the diagram to thread the chain/cover stitch needle positions C-1 and C-3. Place needle threads on top and to the left of presser foot before sewing.

7. Set stitch length and other machine adjustments. (See chart below).

8. Move the lock button release lever to the right.

9. Remove the blade cover and attach the sewing table. (see page 10).

10. Place the fabric under the needles and turn handwheel toward you two or three stitches in the fabric. Cut the excess threads and start sewing.

Note: All chain and cover stitches must be started with fabric under the needle.

COVER STITCH - WIDE

C H A

V E R

T C H

E X P R E S S

Cover Stitch - Wide - 6mm

NEEDLES

C-1 and C-3

LENGTH

2.5 - 4.0

Set Needle Tension

Dial to:

Set Chain Looper

Tension Dial to:

Cover Stitch

Page 53

Balanced tension Cover stitch has correct tension when the needle thread sew two rows of straight stitching on the top side and the chain looper forms a zig zag on the underside of the fabric.

Needle thread is too loose Turn the chain/cover needle thread tension dial to a higher number. Or turn the chain looper tension dial away from the wide dash at the words "Cover Stitch", but ,staying within the solid gold line. This will tighten the chain looper thread on the under side of the stitch.

Needle thread is too tight For a looser tension turn the chain / cover needle thread tension dial to a lower number. Make sure that the chain looper tension dial is set at the solid dash at the words "Cover Stitch".

C H

C O

V E

S T

T C H

P R

Cover Stitch - Wide - 6mm continued

Needle thread is too tight

*Tension Adjustment

Needle thread is too loose

Balanced tension

under side

top side

Page 54

The Triple Cover Stitch can be used for topstitching, hemming, and elastic application . The stitch can also be used as a decorative stitch upside down with the overlock side on the right side of the fabric. The garment industry uses the Triple Cover Stitch frequently in activewear.

The Triple Cover Stitch is formed using all three "C" needle positions and the chain looper. The Triple Cover Stitch is made up of three rows of straight stitching on the top of the fabric with the chain looper forming an overlock stitch on the underside of the fabric.

For Triple Cover Stitch:

1. Turn the cutting blade to the "locked" position.

2. Disengage the upper looper by turning the upper looper positioning lever to the "down" position.

3. Place the machine in "locked" position to thread the chain looper.

4. Select "C" threading port.

5. Follow the diagram to thread the chain looper. Open the side cover of the machine to make sure the thread is through the eye of the looper. Trim thread to 4 inches (10cm) and lay in tray.

6. Follow the diagram to thread the chain/cover stitch needle positions C-1, C-2 and C-3. Place needle threads on top and to the left of presser foot before sewing.

7. Set stitch length and other machine adjustments. (See chart below.)

8. Move the lock button release lever to the right.

9. Remove the blade cover and attach the sewing table. (see page 10).

10. Place the fabric under the needles and turn handwheel toward you two or three stitches in the fabric. Cut the excess threads and start sewing.

Note: All chain and cover stitches must be started with fabric under the needle.

TRIPLE COVER STITCH

C H A

V E R

T C H

E X P R E S S

Triple Cover Stitch - 6mm

NEEDLES

C-1, C-2 and C-3

LENGTH

2.5 - 4.0

Set Needle Tension

Dial to:

Set Chain Looper

Tension Dial to:

Cover Stitch

Page 55

Balanced tension Triple Cover stitch has correct tension when the needle thread sew three rows of straight stitching on the top side and the chain looper forms a zig zag on the underside of the fabric.

Needle thread is too loose Turn the chain/cover needle thread tension dial to a higher number. Or turn the chain looper tension dial away from the wide dash at the words "Cover Stitch" , but, staying within the solid gold line. This will tighten the chain looper thead on the under side of the stitch.

Needle thread is too tight For a looser tension turn the chain / cover needle thread tension dial to a lower number. Make sure that the chain looper tension dial is set at the solid dash at the words "Cover Stitch".

C H

C O

V E

S T

T C H

P R

Triple Cover Stitch continued

Balanced tension

Needle thread is too loose

Needle thread is too tight

*Tension Adjustment

under side

top side

Page 56

The 4-thread safety stitch is perfect for all types of woven fabrics ranging from fine to heavy weight fabrics. This stitch is designed to seam and overlock the edge in one step, thus creating a garment industry standard safety stitch. As well as woven fabrics, the 4- thread safety stitch is for stabilizing knits, sweater knits and long seams on woven fabrics.

4-thread safety stitch is a combined stitch of a 2-thread overlock using subsidiary looper on the upper looper

and a 2-thread chain stitch. The 4-thread safety stitch itself can be 3 different seam widths, depending on the

chain/cover stitch needle position. The varied widths can then work with different types of fabrics.

For 4-thread Safety Stitch:

1. Use standard blade cover.

2. Thread the lower and chain loopers.

3. Thread one chain needle and the O-1 overlock needle (see diagram).

4. Engage the subsidiary looper in the upper looper.

5. Engage the blade to cut the fabric. Set stitch width dial at 7.5.

6. Select A on the Stitch Selector.

7. Set Wave Selector Lever on "O".

* See chart for settings of each size of 4-thread safety stitch.

C O M

I N A

T C H

E X P R E S S

I V E

4-Thread Safety Stitch

Page 57

4-Thread Safety Stitch - continued

C O

4-Thread Safety Stitch:

2-Thread Chain w/2-Thread Wide Overlock

5/8 inch (16mm) 1/2 inch (13mm) 3/8 inch (9.5mm)

Size Needle Looper

5/8 inch (16mm)

1/2 inch

(13mm) 3/8 inch

(9.5mm)

C-1, O-1

C-2, O-1

C-3, O-1

C,L,

Sub Looper

C,L,

Sub Looper

C,L,

Sub Looper

Stitch

Length

2.5-4.0

2.5-4.0 7.5

Stitch Width

7.5

Stitch

Selector

A 5

Chain

Needle

Tension

Dial

Chain

Looper

Tension

Dial

Chain Stitch

A T

I O N

S T

T C H

Note: Stitch length, stitch width and chain needle tension settings may vary with different types of thread.

P R

I V E

Page 58

The 5-thread safety stitch is perfect for all types of woven fabrics ranging from fine to heavy weight. This stitch is designed to seam and overlock the edge in one step, thus creating a garment industry standard stitch. As well as woven fabrics, the 5-thread safety stitch is for stabilizing knits, sweater knits and long seams on woven fabrics.

The 5-thread safety stitch is a combined stitch of a 3-thread overlock and 2-thread chain stitch. The 5-thread

safety stitch itself can be up to 3 different seam widths, depending on the chain/cover stitch needle position.

The varied widths can then work with different types of fabrics.

For 5-Thread Safety Stitch:

1. Use standard blade cover.

2. Thread the upper, lower and chain loopers.

3. Thread one chain needle and O-1 overlock needle. (See diagram).

4. Engage the blade to cut the fabric. Set stitch width dial at 7.5.

5. Select A on the Stitch Selector.

6. Set Wave Selector Lever on "O".

* See chart on next page for settings of each size of 5-thread safety stitch.

C O M

I N A

T C H

E X P R E S S

I V E

5-Thread Safety Stitch

Page 59

5-Thread Safety Stitch - continued

C O

5-Thread Safety Stitch: 2-Thread Chain w/3-Thread wide Overlock

5/8 inch (16mm) 1/2 inch (13mm) 3/8inch (9.5mm)

Size Needle Looper

5/8 inch (16mm)

1/2 inch (13mm)

3/8 inch

(9.5mm)

C-1, O-1 U,L,C 2.5-3.5 7.5

C-2, O-1 U,L,C 2.5-3.5 7.5

C-3, O-1 U,L,C 2.5-3.5 7.5

Stitch

Length

Stitch Width

Stitch

Selector

A 5

Chain

Needle

Tension

Dial

Chain

Looper

Tension

Dial

Chain Stitch

A T

I O N

S T

T C H

*Note: Stitch length, stitch width and chain needle tension settings may vary with different types of thread.

P R

I V E

Page 60

C O M

I N A

T C H

E X P R E S S

I V E

7-Thread Wave Stitch

7-Thread Wave Stitch is a combined stitch of 3-Thread Wave and 4-Thread triple cover stitch. This stitch looks gorgeous with decorative threads appearing on wave stitch and triple cover stitch.

For the 7-Thread Wave Stitch:

1. Use standard blade cover.

2. Thread upper looper according to either 3-thread wave stitch or 3-thread rolled wave stitch. (See page 41 or 42.) Thread the lower looper in the standard lower looper thread path. (See illustration below.)

3. Thread chain looper.

4. Thread C-1, C-2, C-3, and O-2 (right) needle positions.

5. Engage the blade to cut the fabric.

6. Select B on the Stitch Selector for 3-thread wave. (Select C for 3-thread rolled wave.)

7. Move the Wave Selector lever from "O" to "W".

The stitch selection charts in the back of the manual have other combination of stitches such as:

6-Thread Wave - wide (cover stitch wide with 3-thread wave) 6-Thread Wave - narrow(cover stitch narrow with 3-thread wave) 5-Thread Wave - (chain stitch with 3-thread wave)

(For proper settings, see chart on page 88/89.)

All these stitch combinations work in the same manner as the 7-Thread Wave Stitch. See next page for pictures of the various stitch combinations.

Note: Due to the change in the lower looper telescopic thread path, always sew the 7-thread Wave or 7-thread Rolled Wave Stitch at a slow speed to avoid the thread getting tangled while sewing.

Page 61

7-Thread Wave Stitch - continued

Variations of Stitches

7-Thread Stitch

Triple Cover Stitch

w/ 3-Thread Wave Stitch

6-Thread Stitch

Cover Stitch Wide

w/ 3-Thread Wave Stitch

6-Thread Stitch

Cover Stitch Wide

w/ 3-Thread Rolled Wave

C O M

A T

I O N

S T

6-Thread Stitch

Cover Stitch Narrow Left

w/ 3-Thread Rolled Wave

5-Thread Stitch

Right Chain Stitch

w/3-Thread Wave Stitch

5-Thread Stitch

Right Chain Stitch

w/3-Thread Rolled Wave

T C H

P R

I V E

Page 62

C O M

I N A

T C H

E X P R E S S

I V E

7-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch

7-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch is a combined stitch of 3-Thread Reverse Wave and 4-Thread triple cover stitch. This stitch looks gorgeous with decorative threads appearing on wave stitch and triple cover stitch in the back of fabric.

For the 7-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch:

1. Use standard blade cover.

2. Thread upper and lower loopers for the 3-thread reversed wave stitch. (See page 43.) Note: When threading the lower looper thread for the 7-thread Reversed Wave Stitch, use only the telescopic thread guide directly above the lower looper thread. Do not use the chain looper telescopic thread guide for the lower looper thread. (See illustration below.)

3. Thread chain looper.

4. Thread C-1, C-2, C-3, and O-2 (right) needle positions.

5. Engage the blade to cut the fabric.

6. Select B on the Stitch Selector.

7. Turn the Wave Selector lever from "O" to "W".

s in the back of the manual have other combination of stitches such as: 6-Thread Reversed Wave - wide (cover stitch wide with 3-thread reverse wave) 6-Thread Reversed Wave - narrow(cover stitch narrow with 3-thread reverse wave) 5-Thread Reversed Wave - (chain stitch with 3-thread reverse wave)

age 88/89.)

All these stitch combinations work in the same manner as the 7-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch. See next page for pictures of the various stitch combinations.

Note: Due to the change in the lower looper telescopic thread path, always sew the 7-thread Reversed Wave S

titch at a slow speed to avoid the thread getting t

angled while sewing.

Page 63

7-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch - continued

Variations of Stitches

C O M

7-Thread Stitch

Triple Cover Stitch

w/ 3-Thread Reversed

Wave Stitch

6-Thread Stitch

Cover Stitch Wide

w/ 3-Thread Reversed

Wave Stitch

5-Thread Stitch

Right Chain Stitch

w/ 3-Thread Reversed

Wave Stitch

I O N

S T

T C H

P R

Page 64

8-Thread Stitch is a combined stitch of 4-thread overlock and 4-thread triple cover stitch. The 8-thread stitch is perfect for garment construction on heavy weight woven fabrics and used as a decorative topstitching with decorative overlock edge finish. The stitch is very durable as well as being a decorative stitch. The stitch width is 5/8 inch (16.0mm) wide.

For the 8-Thread Stitch:

1. Use standard blade cover.

2. Thread upper, lower, and chain loopers

3. Thread C-1, C-2, C-3, O-1, and O-2 needle positions

4. Engage the blade to cut the fabric.

5. Select A on the Stitch Selector.

The stitch selection charts in the back of the manual have other combination of stitches

All these stitch combinations work in the same manner as the 8-Thread Stitch. See next page for pictures of the various stitch combinations.

C O M

I N A

T C H

E X P R E S S

I V E

8-Thread Stitch

Page 65

8-Thread Stitch - continued

C O

Variations of Stitches

8-Thread Stitch

Triple Cover Stitch

w/ 4-Thread Overlock

7-Thread - wide

Triple Cover Stitch

w/3-Thread Overlock Wide

7-Thread - narrow Triple Cover Stitch

w/3-Thread Overlock Narrow

A T

I O N

S T

T C H

P R

I V E

Page 66

With the great features of Overlock Stitching and Chain/Cover Stitching on the evolve, many different stitches branch off from the basic "Express" stitches. The following combinations can let you "Express" your creativity as never before.

Use the "Stitch Selection Chart"at the back of the manual for threading your evolve with the different combi

nations.

The most common used combinations are the: 8-Thread Stitch - 4-Thread Overlock & Triple Cover Stitch 5-Thread Safety Stitch - 3-Thread Overlock & Chain Stitch C-3 needle position 4-Thread Safety Stitch - 2-Thread Overlock & Chain Stitch C-3 needle position

C O M

I N A

T C H

E X P R E S S

I V E

Expressive Stitches: Chain/Cover Stitches combined with Overlock Stitches

"Expressive" Combinations:

4-Thread Overlock & Chain C-3 needle position 4-Thread Overlock & Chain C-2 needle position 4-Thread Overlock & Chain C-1 needle position 4-Thread Overlock & Right Narrow Cover Stitch 4-Thread Overlock & Left Narrow Cover Stitch

4-Thread Overlock & Wide Cover Stitch 4-Thread Overlock & Triple Cover Stitch

3-Thread Overlock Narrow & Chain C-3 needle position 3-Thread Overlock Narrow & Chain C-2 needle position 3-Thread Overlock Narrow & Chain C-1 needle position 3-Thread Overlock Narrow & Right Narrow Cover Stitch 3-Thread Overlock Narrow & Left Narrow Cover Stitch 3-Thread Overlock Narrow & Wide Cover Stitch 3-Thread Overlock Narrow & Triple Cover Stitch

3-Thread Wave Stitch & Chain C-3 needle position 3-Thread Wave Stitch & Chain C-2 needle position 3-Thread Wave Stitch & Chain C-1 needle position 3-Thread Wave Stitch & Right Narrow Cover Stitch 3-Thread Wave Stitch & Left Narrow Cover Stitch 3-Thread Wave Stitch & Wide Cover Stitch 3-Thread Wave Stitch & Triple Cover Stitch

3-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch & Chain C-3 needle position 3-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch & Chain C-2 needle position 3-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch & Chain C-1 needle position 3-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch & Right Narrow Cover Stitch 3-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch & Left Narrow Cover Stitch 3-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch & Wide Cover Stitch 3-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch & Triple Cover Stitch

Page 67

Expressive Stitches continued

C O

3-Thread Overlock Wide & Chain C-3 needle position 3-Thread Overlock Wide & Chain C-2 needle position 3-Thread Overlock Wide & Chain C-1 needle position 3-Thread Overlock Wide & Right Narrow Cover Stitch 3-Thread Overlock Wide & Left Narrow Cover Stitch 3-Thread Overlock Wide & Wide Cover Stitch 3-Thread Overlock Wide & Triple Cover Stitch

3-Thread Flatlock Narrow & Chain C-3 needle position 3-Thread Flatlock Narrow & Chain C-2 needle position 3-Thread Flatlock Narrow & Chain C-1 needle position 3-Thread Flatlock Narrow & Right Narrow Cover Stitch 3-Thread Flatlock Narrow & Left Narrow Cover Stitch 3-Thread Flatlock Narrow & Wide Cover Stitch 3-Thread Flatlock Narrow & Triple Cover Stitch

3-Thread Rolled Hem & Chain C-3 needle position 3-Thread Rolled Hem & Chain C-2 needle position 3-Thread Rolled Hem & Chain C-1 needle position 3-Thread Rolled Hem & Right Narrow Cover Stitch 3-Thread Rolled Hem & Left Narrow Cover Stitch 3-Thread Rolled Hem & Wide Cover Stitch 3-Thread Rolled Hem & Triple Cover Stitch

A T

I O N

S T

T C H

3-Thread Rolled Wave & Chain C-3 needle position 3-Thread Rolled Wave & Chain C-2 needle position 3-Thread Rolled Wave & Chain C-1 needle position 3-Thread Rolled Wave & Right Narrow Cover Stitch 3-Thread Rolled Wave & Left Narrow Cover Stitch 3-Thread Rolled Wave & Wide Cover Stitch 3-Thread Rolled Wave & Triple Cover Stitch

2-Thread Overlock Narrow & Chain C-3 needle position 2-Thread Overlock Narrow & Chain C-2 needle position 2-Thread Overlock Narrow & Chain C-1 needle position 2-Thread Overlock Narrow & Right Narrow Cover Stitch 2-Thread Overlock Narrow & Left Narrow Cover Stitch 2-Thread Overlock Narrow & Wide Cover Stitch 2-Thread Overlock Narrow & Triple Cover Stitch

2-Thread Overlock Wide & Chain C-3 needle position 2-Thread Overlock Wide & Chain C-2 needle position 2-Thread Overlock Wide & Chain C-1 needle position 2-Thread Overlock Wide & Right Narrow Cover Stitch 2-Thread Overlock Wide & Left Narrow Cover Stitch 2-Thread Overlock Wide & Wide Cover Stitch 2-Thread Overlock Wide & Triple Cover Stitch

P R

I V E

Page 68

Sew to the point in fabric where you want to turn a corner. Stop the machine. Turn the handwheel toward you (counter clockwise) by hand, making sure the needle is going down in the fabric. Slowly start to raise the needle OUT OF FABRIC. Stop when you see the eye of the needle. (The point of the needle will still be in the fabric.) Raise the presser foot (fig A), and slowly pivot the fabric (fig B). Lower the presser foot and continue to sew (fig C).

T E C H N

U E S

Turning Corners - Chain Stitch

A B C

Turning Corners - Cover Stitch

Sew to the point in fabric where you want to turn a corner. Stop the machine. Turn the handwheel toward you (counter clockwise) until the needles are down in the fabric. Turn the handwheel away from you (clockwise) until the needles are in the highest position and the needles are out of the fabric. Raise the presser foot (fig A) and slowly pivot the fabric. Align the needles with the stitching on the fabric (fig B) and lower the presser foot. Continue to sew. (fig C)

To keep the stitch from unraveling at the corner(s), use a hand needle and thread to complete the corner on the top of the fabric and catch the chain looper thread on the underside.

A B C

Page 69

Turning Outside Corner - Overlock

1. Stitch along one edge until you reach the corner. Take one stitch off the edge of the fabric (fig. A). (As you approach the edge, you may want to stop and manually turn the handwheel towards you.)

2. Raise the needle(s) to the highest position.

3. Clear the stitch fingers, and rotate the fabric to reposition the needle

at the previous row of stitching (fig. B). Gently pull up on all threads to remove slack and resume stitching (fig. C).

T E C H N

Note: A loose thread loop at the corner is caused by too much slack in

the needle thread when clearing the stitch fingers. Try again, turning corners takes a little practice!

Turning Inside Corner - Overlock

1. Reinforce loosely woven fabrics at the corner with staystitching on the conventional sewing machine. Clip to the corner (fig. A).

2. Align the fabric edge with the blade, and stitch until the blade reaches the corner, not the needles. Don't cut into the corner (fig. B).

3. Lower the needle(s) to anchor the fabric.

4. Raise the presser foot and straighten out the fabric, forming a pleat at the corner (fig. C).

5. Be sure the marked stitching line is straight, then continue serging the remaining edge. When done correctly, the pleat will disappear after stitching (fig. D).

U E S

C D

Page 70

T E C H N

U E S

Flat Hemming - Cover Stitch

Hemming in the Round - Cover Stitch

1. Leave one seam on the garment open.

2. Measure, turn up and press hem on garment.

3. On right side of garment mark hem allowance with marking pen.

4. Place garment right side up under the presser foot, aligning the marked hem with the needles. Make sure both needles are positioned on the raw edge of the hem (fig A).

5. Sew hem.

6. Sew seam on garment.

Note: Optional guide or attachments will help with hemming. (fig.B) Ask your Baby Lock retailer.

1. Sew all seams on the garment.

2. Measure, turn up and press the hem on garment.

3. Stitch around the hem, overlapping the hem approximately 1/2 inch (13mm). (fig.A)

4. Turn the handwheel towards you until the needles are in the lowest position in the fabric.

5. Carefully reverse the handwheel until the needles are in the highest position.

6. Raise the presser foot to release the tension.

7. Carefully and firmly pull fabric and threads to the left. Cut threads.

8. Pull threads to the back of fabric and tie off (fig.B).

9. Use a seam sealant to secure the threads at the tie off.

Page 71

Blind Hemming - Overlock

Your Baby Lock evolve can create a sturdy, nearly invisible blind-

hem.

T E

1. Set the machine for 2-Thread Overlock with the O-2 needle

threaded. Set the stitch width at 5.0 and the stitch length at 4.0 in the standard range.

2. Fold up the hemline and press it in place. Then fold the hem

allowance back against the fabric right side to create a fold about 1/4 " from the top edge of the hem as shown (fig. A).

3. Align the fold under the presser foot and stitch, allowing the nee-

dle to catch only a thread or two of the soft fold: the blade will trim the top edge of the hem and the loopers will overcast the edge for a clean finish (fig. B).

4. Open the fold and press flat (fig. C).

Note: An optional blindhem foot for consistent guiding is available

through your Baby Lock retailer (fig. D).

H N

I Q U

E S

Sewing Curves - Overlock

To sew around inside or outside curves, guide the fabric into the blade, not the needle. Remember, cutting takes place before the fabric reaches the needle. Because the long serger presser foot holds the fabric more securely, you may need to raise and lower the presser foot several times to maneuver around very tight curves.

Page 72

The slot in the standard presser foot is designed to guide stabilizing tape, narrow elastic or decorative ribbon

into the stitching. Insert tape or elastic into the slot and under the back of the foot (fig. A). Adjust the stitch

width to match the tape width. Place the fabric under the foot and stitch (fig. B).

T E C H N

U E S

Inserting Tapes - Overlock

A B

Inserting Tapes - Cover Stitch

The slot on the standard foot can be used with the narrow, wide, or triple cover stitches. Decorative tape, ribbon, or elastic can be inserted into the slot and sewn with the cover stitch (fig. A). Insert the tape, ribbon or elastic into the slot and down under the foot to the needles. (Remember, that the cover stitch must be started in the fabric). When using the sewing table, the decorative tape, ribbon, or elastic can be placed anywhere on the fabric (fig. B).

A B

Page 73

Flatlock "Decorative" - Overlock

The flatlock stitch need not be limited at seamlines. When sewn on a fold, flatlocking can create attractive decorative effects within the body of a garment or project. Either follow placement lines on your pattern or design your own special effects by stitching the fabric before laying out pattern pieces.

1. Set the machine for 2-thread flatlock - wide. (See page 36.)

2. Turn the cutting blade lock switch clockwise to disengage the upper cutting blade.

3. Set the stitch length to desired setting.

4. Fold the fabric (right side or wrong side out, depending on the loop or ladder stitch you want to show) along stitch placement lines.

5. Position the fabric under the presser foot, aligning the fold of the fabric 1/8 inch (3.5mm) to the left of the upper cutting blade (fig A). (See note).

6. Stitch to the desired ending point.

7. Clear the stitch fingers and chain off the fabric (fig B).

8. Clip threads, leaving a 3-4 inch (7.5-10cm) chain.

9. Gently pull the fabric to flatten the stitches (fig C).

10. Separate the chain threads and thread them through a needle and pull them to the fabric back side. If necessary, tie a knot to secure the threads (fig D).

T E C H N

U E S

Note: If the fabric does not pull completely flat under the stitches, guide the fabric fold to the left so that the loops hang slightly off the fold as they are being stitched.

Page 74

The serger stitch will not unravel readily, and in most cases serged seams are secured by an intersecting seam. If that's not the case, these are several options for securing seam (fig. A).

1. Leave a 3 inch (7.5cm) chain, separate the threads and tie a knot.

2. Apply a dot of seam sealant on the thread chain at the fabric edge. Allow to dry and cut off the excess thread chain.

3. Leave a 3-4 inch (7.5-10cm) thread chain and use a large-eye tapestry needle or double-eye needle to weave the chain back into the stitching.

4. Lock the beginning or end of a seam by serging over the previous stitches.

To lock the beginning of the seam:

1. Manually turn the handwheel toward you taking 2-3 stitches into the fabric. Leave the needle(s) in the lowest position to anchor the fab

ric.

2. Raise the presser foot.

3. Smooth out the thread chain with your fingers (fig. B). Then bring the chain around and under the foot, so that it aligns with the edge of the fabric (fig. C).

4. Lower the foot and continue sewing, catching the thread chain in

the stitches for about 1inch (2.5cm). Let the blades cut off any

remaining thread chain (fig.D-E).

T E C H N

U E S

Securing Ends - Overlock

Page 75

Securing Ends - Overlock cont.

To lock the end of the seam:

1. Take one stitch off the end of the seam (fig. A).

2. Raise the presser foot and bring the needle(s) to the highest position. Pull back gently on the fabric to clear the stitch fingers.

3. Turn the fabric over, end to end (fig. B), and reposition it under the presser foot with the needle at the seam edge, aligned with the previous needle line (fig. C).

4. Lower presser foot and sew 5-6 stitches over the previous stitches, being careful not to cut them. You may want to flip the cutting blade lock switch clockwise to the lock position. Pivot the fabric and chain off, (fig. D-E).

E C H N

I Q U

E S

Page 76

The Chain Stitch and Cover Stitch can easily be removed. Trim the chain tail to edge of fabric at the "end" of the seam and pull on the chain looper thread on underside of the fabric. This will give you the opportunity to "Unsew" an incorrect seam very easily. To secure the chain stitch or cover stitch, at the end of the seam, bring the needle thread(s) to the back of the fabric and tug on the needle threads to secure them. The cover stitch needle threads may also be tied to prevent raveling of the stitch. Seam sealant can also be applied to the thread ends.

T E C H N

Securing Chain and Cover Stitching

Page 77

Notes:

E C H N

I Q U

E S

Page 78

Beautiful stitches can be formed by serging with specialty threads, cords, and ribbons. These heavy or shiny threads can be used to enhance the appearance of a stitch, add strength and elasticity, or create special effects. It depends on the thread you choose for the chosen technique.

Some specialty threads work well through the needle and loopers, while others are too heavy to be threaded through the needle and are for looper use only.

Use the "Specialty Thread Guide Chart" on pages 80 & 81 as a guide for the specialty threads. Keep in mind that the quality of the thread may vary from one manufacturer to another. Make test samples before starting on the project.

S P E C

L T

T H R E A D S

Using Specialty Threads

Light - weight Threads

Medium - weight Threads

Heavy - weight Threads

Light-weight threads such as rayon machine-embroidery thread, lingerie thread, can easily be threaded on the evolve. Very fine monofilament threads may need threading assistance of a "Threading Cradle" (pg. 79) or "Looper Threading Tool" (pg 78)

Medium-weight threads, such as topstitching thread, Décor rayon, stretch nylon thread are too bulky to easily "jet-air" through the threading port and loopers. By using a "Threading Cradle" or "Looper Threading Tool", the heavier threads can be threaded easily in the evolve.

Heavy-weight threads such as Pearl Crown Rayon, Décor 6, and Candlelight will need extra attention in the

upper, lower, and chain loopers. Please follow the Specialty Thread Guide Chart on page 80 for special instruc

tions concerning the use of these threads.

Page 79

Bypassing the Threading Port

Heavy-weight threads can be used through your regular looper thread paths. Specific techniques may require that the thread bypass the thread port for the thread pull to be loosened. Start with the machine threaded with regular serger thread.

S P

1. Open front cover and raise the presser foot.

2. Just above the threading port, clip the looper thread to be replaced. Pull the thread out of the upper guides and remove the cone.

3. Place the specialty thread on the spool pin. Thread it into the upper guides and clip it a couple of inches beyond the base plate (fig. A).

4. With machine lock button released, use the tweezers to pull the existing looper thread out of tube extending from the threading mechanism (fig. B). Leave the thread in the looper arm.

5. Tie the specialty thread onto the regular thread with an overhand knot (fig. C). Pull on the regular thread from the looper eye until the specialty thread comes through the looper eye.

6. Place upper looper thread under the foot and to the left: clip lower looper thread at the base plate.

If the thread is heavy and the overhand knot (step #5) is too large for the looper tube, follow directions #1 thru #6 on page 79 to make a thread cradle. Then:

1. Release machine lock button.

2. While holding the loose ends of the thread cradle with one hand, use the tweezers to pull the cradle loop out of the tube extending from the threading mechanism with the other hand.

3. Insert 2 inch(5cm) of your decorative thread into the cradle loop. Pull on the loose ends of the thread cradle from the looper eye until the specialty thread comes through the looper eye.

L T Y

H R

E A

Page 80

1. Open the front cover and raise the presser foot.

2. At the threading port, cut the looper thread that is to be replaced. Remove thread from under the foot and the upper thread guides. Replace cone of thread with specialty thread.

3. With machine in locked position set the looper threading port to U, L, or C according to the looper that is being threaded.

4. Thread specialty thread into the upper thread guides, leaving an 18 inch (40cm) tail above the threading port.

5. Place the straight end of the looper threading tool into the threading port. Push the looper threading tool until the end comes out of the looper eye. For the chain looper, open side door of machine to see threading tool come out of the eye of chain looper.

6. Insert the specialty thread tail into the looper threading tool eye (fig.A). Pull the straight end of the looper threading tool through the looper eye bringing the specialty thread with it. (fig.B)

7. Run upper looper thread under the foot and to the left, cut lower looper thread to 4 inches (10cm) and leave it hanging loose. Cut

chain looper thread 4 inches (10cm) and place in tray. Close side door of machine.

S P E C

L T

T H R E A D S

Looper Threading Tool

Page 81

Thread Cradle for Loopers

1. Open the front cover and raise the presser foot.

2. At the threading port, clip the looper thread that is to be replaced. (fig.A) Remove thread from under the foot and the upper thread guides. Replace cone of thread with specialty thread.

3. With machine in locked position (fig.B) set the looper threading port to U, L, or C according to the looper that is being threaded.

4. Thread specialty thread into the upper thread guides, leaving an 18

inch (40cm) tail above the threading port. (fig.C)

5. Cut a 24 inch (55cm) strand of serger thread and fold in half to form a thread cradle. Insert the loose ends of the thread cradle into the port about 1 inch (2.5cm).

6. Holding the cradle loop with left hand, depress the threading lever with your right hand (fig.D) until the thread ends come out the looper eye. For chain looper, open side door of machine to make sure thread is in eye of chain looper.

7. Insert the specialty thread tail into the cradle loop (fig.E), pull the serger thread ends until the specialty thread comes through the looper eye (fig.F). Discard or set aside the thread cradle.

8. Run upper looper thread under the foot and to the left, cut lower looper thread to 4 inches (10cm) and leave it hanging loose. Cut chain looper thread 4inches (10cm) and place in tray. Close side door of machine. (fig.G)

S P E

L T Y

H R

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E F G

Page 82

S P E C

L T

T H R E A D S

Specialty Thread Guide Chart

OVERLOCK STITCHES

Topstitching Buttonhole Twist (Medium-weight)

Wooly Nylon (Medium-weight)

Metallic Threads (Light-weight)

APPLICATION

Decorative Edging Decorative Flatlocking

Rolled Hem Soft seams on Lingerie and sportswear

Decorative Edging Decorative Topstitching

4-Thread Seams Not recommended Use in loopers only

For decorative exposed seams. Use in needles and loopers

4-Thread Edging

Use in loopers only

Use in needles and loopers

3-Thread Seams

Not recommended

Use in loopers only

For decorative exposed seams. Use in needles and loopers

3-Thread Edging

Use in loopers only Use in loopers only

Use in needle and loopers

3-Thread Rolled Edging

Use in upper looper only

Use in upper looper only. Lengthen stitch length.

2-Thread Flatlock (wide or narrow)

Not recommended

Use in lower looper only

COMMENTS:

Sew at a slower speed when sewing with heavier threads

Sew at a slower speed when sewing with metallic threads

CHAIN/COVER STITCHES

Topstitching Buttonhole Twist (Medium-weight)

Wooly Nylon (Medium-weight)

Metallic Threads (Light-weight)

2-Thread Chain C-1, C-2, or C-3 Needle Position

In chain looper only

In chain needle only

3-Thread Cover Stitch Left Narrow Right Narrow Wide

In chain looper only

In chain looper only In needles only

4-Thread Triple Cover Stitch

In chain looper only

In needles only

5-Thread Safety Stitch

Not recommended

In loopers only

Not recommended

6-Thread S

titch

7-Thread S

titch

8-Thread Stitch

In loopers only In loopers only

Not recommended

COMMENTS:

Not recommended for needles. Use in looper(s) only

Not recommended for needles

Sew at a slower speed when sewing with metallic threads.

3-Thread Wave

3-Thread Rolled Wave

In upper or lower looper. Or both loopers

Use in upper looper only

In upper or lower looper. Or both loopers

Page 83

S P E

L T Y

H R

E A

Specialty Thread Guide Chart

OVERLOCK STITCHES

Clear Nylon (Light-weight)

Lingerie Thread, Rayon or Polyester Machine-embroidery Thread (Light-weight)

Decorative Thread: Décor, Candlelight, Pearl Crown Rayon (Heavy-weight)

APPLICATION

Techniques requiring thread invisibility.

Lingerie and light-weight fabrics, edging of fine fabric, fine rolled hem

Decorative edging Decorative flatlocking Decorative rolled hem Decorative chain/ coverstitching

4-Thread Seams

Not recommended

Lingerie thread for seams. Machine embroidery thread for exposed decorative seams

Not recommended

4-Thread Edging

Not recommended

Machine Embroidery Thread only

Use in looper(s) only

3-Thread Seams

Recommended for blind hemming

Lingerie thread only

Not recommended

3-Thread Edging

Not recommended

Machine Embroidery Thread only

Use in looper(s) only

2-Thread Flatlock (wide or narrow)

Recommended for blind hemming

Use in needle and lower looper

Use in lower looper only

COMMENTS:

Make sure to use soft, pliable monofilament thread. Sew at a slower speed when sewing with monofilament thread.

Use thread nets or sponge disks to keep thread from spilling off spool. Sew at a slower speed when sewing with decorative thread.

Candlelight thread: Bypass threading ports when threading loopers. Sew at a slower speed when sewing with decorative thread.

CHAIN/COVER STITCHES

2-Thread Chain C-1, C-2, or C-3 Needle Position

Use in needle and chain looper

Use in chain looper only

3-Thread Cover Stitch Left Narrow Right Narrow Wide

Use in needles and chain looper

Lingerie

Thread: Use in

needles and chain loop

. Machine embroidery thread: Use in needles only

Use in chain looper only

4-Thread Triple Cover Stitch

Use in needles and chain looper

Lingerie Thread: Use in needles and chain looper. Machine embroidery thread: Use in needles only.

Use in chain looper only

5-Thread Safety Stitch

Not recommended

Lingerie thread recommended only

Use in chain looper and lower looper only for a reverse decorative stitch.

6-Thread Stitch 7-Thread Stitch

8-Thread Stitch

Not recommended Machine Embroidery

Thread only

Use in chain looper and lower looper only for a reverse decorative stitch.

COMMENTS:

Make sure to use sof

pliable monofilament thread. Sew at a slower speed when sewing with monofilament thread.

Use thread nets or sponge disks to keep thread from spilling off spool. Sew at a slower speed when sewing with deco

rative thread.

Not recommended for needles

3-Thread Rolled Edging

Lengthen Stitch length slightly

Use in needle and loopers

Use in looper(s) only

3-Thread Wave

3-Thread Rolled Wave

Not recommended

Machine Embroidery Thread in upper and lower loopers

Machine Embroidery Thread in upper looper

Use in upper looper only

Use in upper looper or lower looper. Not both loopers at once.

Page 84

Before taking your machine in for service, check the following:

Machine fails to start:

1. Are electrical plugs properly connected?

2. Is the power switch on?

3. Check household circuit breaker or fuse.

4. Is the lock button release lever in the unlocked position?

Thread breaks:

1. Is the machine threaded correctly? Check each thread path carefully.

2. Is the correct needle inserted for the particular stitch? - C-1, C-2, C-3, O-1, or O-2?

3. Is the needle inserted correctly?

4. Is the needle bent and worn?

5. Are you using good quality thread?

6. Is the thread feeding off the cone/spool freely?

7. Is the needle size correct for the type of fabric being used?

8. Are the needles being used the correct Schmetz or Organ ELx705CF system?

Chain or Cover Stitching:

1. Are the tensions too tight on the chain/cover needles or the chain looper?

2. Is the stitch length too short?

3. Did you start the first stitch in the fabric?

Overlock stitching:

1. Is the stitch selector on the proper setting?

2. Is the upper looper positioning lever in the "UP" position?

Skipped Stitches:

1. Is the needle bent or worn?

2. Is the needle inserted correctly?

3. Is the serger threaded correctly?

4. Is the presser foot pressure right for the fabric?

5. Is the correct needle being used for the particular stitch?

6. Is the correct needle being used for the type of being sewn fabric?

7. Is the fabric being pulled from the rear of the machine while sewing?

Fabric will not feed in machine:

1. Is the machine lock button released?

2. Is the presser foot down?

3. Are the cutting blades sharp?

4. Are the cutting blades, presser foot, and feed dogs free of lint?

5. Are the cutting blades properly set and is the upper blade against the lower blade?

6. Is the presser foot pressure right for the fabric?

7. Is the stitch length set properly?

8. Is the needle plate secure on the machine?

T E N A N C E

Troubleshooting

Page 85

Troubleshooting Continued

Stitch Unbalanced:

1. Is the serger threaded correctly?

2. Is the proper presser foot on the serger?

3. Is the correct needle inserted and threaded?

Chain or Cover Stitch unbalanced:

1. Is the thread in the tensions?

2. Are the tensions set correctly for the chain/cover needles?

3. Is the tension dial set correctly for the chain looper?

4. Is the chain looper threaded correctly?

5. Is the needle thread(s) in the correct tension disk?

Overlock Stitching unbalanced:

1. Is the stitch selector on the proper setting?

2. Is the thread well seated in the thread slots?

3. Is the looper thread fine-tuning screw positioned correctly? Note: If you change the position of the looper thread fine-tuning screw and the stitch is unbal anced, return the screw to the standard position and recheck the stitch.

Looper threading difficulties:

1. Is the looper threader selector at the appropriate setting?

2. Is the thread end in the proper threading port?

3. Is at least 1 inch (2.5cm) of the thread end in the threading port?

4. Is there at least 18 inches (40cm) of loose thread beyond the thread guide above the threading port?

5. Is the upper looper positioning lever set at "UP" position for serging?

6. Is there a kink or twist in the 18 inch (40cm) of thread to restrict the flow into the threading port?

7. Is the thread caught to prevent going through the loopers?

T E

A N C

Poor Cutting:

1. Are the cutting blade(s) dull?

2. Have you sewn over a straight pin?

3. Is the cutting blade in the locked position?

4. Have the cutting blades been improperly replaced?

5. Is the fabric being pulled from the rear of the machine while sewing?

Wave Stitch is not formed:

1. Is the machine threaded correctly? Check each thread path carefully.

2. Is the machine set for 3-Thread Wave sewing?

3. Is the Wave Selector set on "W"?

4. For rolled wave edging, is the stitch length dial set for "ROLLED HEM" ?

5. Is the Stitch Selector set correctly? Set the Stitch Selector at "B" for 3-Thread Wave Stitch or "C" for 3-Thread Rolled Wave Stitch.

Page 86

Needle Identification (fig. A)-

The chain/cover stitch needle are on the front portion of the needle clamp and are identified by C-1,C-2 and C-3. C-1-Left chain/cover stitch needle can be used for chain stitch, left narrow cover stitch, wide cover stitch or triple cover stitch. C-2-Center chain/cover stitch needle can be used for a chain stitch, left narrow cover stitch, right narrow cover stitch or triple cover stitch. C-3-Right chain/cover stitch needle can be used for a chain stitch, right narrow cover stitch, wide cover stitch, or triple cover stitch.

The overlock needles are on the back portion of the needle clamp and are identified by O-1 and O-2. O-1-Left overlock needle can be used for wide overlock stitches. O-2-Right overlock needle can be used for narrow overlock stitches and rolled or narrow hemming.

Note: Both needles are used for 4-thread overlock stitching.

To replace a needle -

1. Raise the needle to the highest position by turning the handwheel toward you.

2. Using the allen screwdriver, loosen the needle screw for the needle to be changed. Screws are located by sequence as indicated above. Note: To prevent the needle from falling into the needle plate, hold it with the needle insert tool as you loosen the screw (fig. B).

3. Use the needle insert tool or tweezers to insert the new needle with the flat side to the back.

Insert needle as far as it will go, check the needle viewing window

(fig. C).

4. Tighten the needle clamp screw.

Note: If you do drop a needle down into the machine just pull out the needle-drop drawer at the bottom of your serger. The needle will be on the drawer (fig. D).

T E N A N C E

Replacing Needles

O1 O2

Page 87

Replacing Cutting Blades

The fixed blade is made of a special long lasting steel and does not require frequent replacement. If necessary, contact your nearest retailer for replacement of the blade.

The upper moving blade is made of a softer steel material and will require replacement. A spare blade is pro vided with the machine for replacement if necessary. The spare blade is located on the thread spool stand accessory compartment.

If for some reason your machine does not cut or perform as it should be, please take your machine to your nearest Baby Lock retailer. It is possible that the result of poor cutting may indicate other problems.

TO REPLACE MOVING BLADE proceed as follow;

1. For safety reasons, unplug main power cord.

2. Open front cover and cutting blade cover (fig. A):

3. Remove screw and moving blade (fig. B).

4. Insert new blade into blade slot.

5. Insert screw and place moving blade to its highest position.

6. Hold blade in place and tighten screw.

7. Check and make sure that the top section of cutting blade is set below

the fixed blade when moving blade is in its lowest position.

8. Close cutting blade cover and front cover.

T E

A N C

Replacing Light Bulb

1. For safety reasons, unplug main power cord prior of replacing light bulb.

2. Open front cover and cutting blade cover.

3. Remove light bulb and replace bulb with the same type rated (15watts/110volts or 15watts/240volts). See below draft for reference.

15W/110V

(Screw Type)

15W/240V

(Bayonet Typel)

Page 88

Your Baby Lock will operate at best performance if it is kept clean at all times. The serger's cutting action creates much more lint than you will find on conventional sewing machine.

Your serger's major moving parts are well protected and do not need to be oiled. However, we recommend to use the cleaning brush often during garment construction in order to keep lint off the blades, the needle bar, the feed dog mechanism and loopers. If machine needs to be oiled, check with your nearest Baby Lock retailer for use of high grade recommended sewing machine oil.

TO REMOVE NEEDLE PLATE PROCEED AS FOLLOW:

1. For safety reasons, unplug main power cord.

2. Raise and remove presser foot.

3. Select stitch length dial to rolled hem setting.

4. Remove needles from needle clamp.

5. For easy access to the needle plate lock pin set screw, lower needle clamp to its lowest position. (fig. A).

6. Place allen screwdriver (1.5mm) into allen screw and loosen needle plate pin holder screw. (See fig. B for location of screw.)

7. Remove needle plate lock pin (fig B) and remove needle plate front screw. (See arrow in fig B).

8. Open left side cover of machine and remove needle plate.

9. Clean machine. (fig C)

10. Place needle plate onto machine and insert needle plate lock pin.

11. Tighten allen screw needle plate lock pin and check and make sure that top needle plate lock pin is flush with needle plate.

12. Place needle plate front screw and tighten screw.

Note:

For better stitch performance, make sure needle C-1.C-2,and C-3 do not touch either side of needle plate

hole.

T E N A N C E

Cleaning

A B C

Page 89

Technical Data

Stitch Types: Chain Stitch

- Right (C-1), Center (C-2), Left (C-3)

T E

Cover Stitch

- Narrow Left

- Narrow Right

- Wide

- Triple

Overlock Stitch

4-Thread Overlock (narrow and wide)

- 3-Thread Overlock (narrow and wide)

- 3-Thread Flatlock 3-Thread Rolled Hem

3-Thread Wave 3-Thread Rolled Wave 2-Thread Overlock (narrow and wide)

- 2-Thread Flatlock (narrow and wide)

Combined Stitch

- 5-Thread Safety Stitch

- 6-Thread Stitch

- 7-Thread Stitch

- 8-Thread Stitch

H N

A T A

Stitch Width: Cover Stitch

- Triple Cover Stitch : 6.0mm

- Cover Stitch - Wide : 6.0mm

- Cover Stitch - Narrow: 3.0mm

Overlock Stitch

- Standard 2/3/4-Thread Overlock with left needle : 5.5-7.5mm

- Standard 2/3/4-Thread Overlock with right needle : 3.0-5.0mm

- 3-Thread Rolled Hem with right needle : 1.5mm

Combined Stitch

- 5-Thread Safety Stitch: 5.5-16.0mm

- 6-Thread Ultra Stitch: 8.5-16.0mm

- 7-Thread Ultra Stitch: 10.5-16.0mm

- 8-Thread Ultra Stitch:13.5-16.0mm

Stitch Length: 1.0-4.0mm Differential Feed: Gathering effect: N ~ 2

Stretching effect: N ~ 0.6 Presser Foot: Snap on exclusive feet for evolve Handwheel: Rotate forward (counter clockwise) Loopers: 3 Loopers: Upper(U), Lower(L), Chain(C) Needle System: Schmetz or Organ ELx705CF #80/12 - #90/14 Number of Needles: 5 total: 3 Chain/Cover Stitch, 2 Overlock Sewing Speed: Up to 1500 s.p.m. Machine Weight: 8.3 kg/18 lbs. Light Bulb: 15W / 110V or 15W / 240V

Page 90

T C H

S E

L E C

C H A R

Chart for stitch selection settings for Chain/Cover and Combination

Name of Stitch

Nb. Needles

& ndle position

Looper(s)

U - L - C

Stitch

L/dial

Stitch

W/dial

Stitch

Selector

Ch. looper

tension dial

Ch/Cov ndle

tension dial

Diff.

Feed

Finish seam

Width

8 Thread

Triple Cover stitch

with

4 thread overlock

C1 - C2 - C3

with

U - L - C

2.5 - 4.0 7.5 A

Cover Stitch 5.0 * N

16 mm

O1 - O2

7 Thread

Triple Cover stitch

with

3 thread overlock

C1-C2-C3-O1 U - L - C 2.5 - 4.0 7.5 A

Cover Stitch 5.0 * N

16 mm

(Wide)

C1-C2-C3-O2 U - L - C

2.5 - 4.0

5.5 B

Cover Stitch

5.0 * N

14 mm

(Narrow)

Cover Stitch

with

4 thread overlock

C1-C2-O1-O2 U - L - C 2.5 - 4.0 7.5 A

Cover Stitch 5.0 * N

16 mm

C1-C3-O1-O2

" " " "

" " "

16 mm

C2-C3-O1-O2

" " " "

" " "

13 mm

6 Thread

Cover Stitch

with

3 thread overlock

O1 (wide)

O2 (narrow)

C1 - C2 - O1

U - L - C

2.5 - 4.0 7.5 A

Cover Stitch 5.0 * N

16 mm

C1 - C3 - O1

" " " "

" " "

16 mm

C2 - C3 - O1

" " " "

" " "

13 mm

C1 - C2 - O2 U - L - C 2.5 - 4.0 5.5 B

Cover Stitch 5.0 * N

14 mm

C1 - C3 - O2

" " " "

" "

14 mm

C2 - C3 - O2

" " " "

" " "

11 mm

Chain Stitch

with

4 thread overlock

C1 - O1 - O2 U - L - C

2.5 - 4.0

7.5 A

Chain Stitch 5.0 * N

16 mm

C2 - O1 - O2

" " " "

" " "

13 mm

C3 - O1 - O2

" "

10 mm

5 Thread

Chain Stitch

with

3 thread overlock

C1 - O1

U - L - C 2.5 - 4.0 7.5 A

Chain Stitch 5.0 * N

16 mm

C2 - O1

" "

" " "

13 mm

C3 - O1

" " " "

" " "

10 mm

Notes : ( U - L - C ) = Upper - Lower - Chain looper

( * ) = Tension settings on Chain Looper and on Cover/Stitch needles may vary depending on the threads.

Wave

Selector

Triple Cover stitch

with

3 thread Wave

C1-C2-C3-O2

(Reversed Wave)

U - L - C

1.0 - 2.5

7.5 B

Cover Stitch

5.0 *

16 mm

Page 91

Width

14 mm

Finish seam

Feed

Diff.

8 mm

11 mm

N 16 mm

16 mm

13 mm

14 mm

11 mm

14 mm

11 mm

8 mm

13 mm

10 mm

N 16 mm

tension dial

Ch/Cov ndle

Ch. looper

tension dial

Chain Stitch 5.0 *

Selector

W/dial

L/dial

2.5 - 4.0 5.5 B

Wave

Stitch

5.0 *

" "

Cover Stitch

OOOOO

" "

Cover Stitch

2.5 - 4.0 5.5 B

Cover Stitch 5.0 *

2.0 - 3.0 -- --

Chain Stitch 5.0 *

" "

Chain Stitch

2.5 - 4.0 5.5 B

Cover Stitch 5.0 *

" "

Cover Stitch 5.0 *

Chain Stitch 5.0 *

" "

O N

Chart for stitch selection settings for Chain/Cover and Combination

U - L - C

Looper(s)

Nb. Needles

Stitch name

U - L - C

C1 - O2

& ndle position

5 Thread

Chain stitch

" " " "

L-C-sub looper 2.5 - 4.0 7.5 A

C2 - O2

C3 - O2

C1 - C2 - O1

C1 - C3 - O1

C2 - C3 - O1

with

3 thread overlock

with

Cover Stitch

" " " "

C1 - C2 - O2

C1 - C3 - O2

(Wide O-1)

(Narrow O-2)

2 Thread overlock

C1 - C2 - C3

C2 - C3 - O2

4 Thread

" " " "

C1 - O1 L-C-sub looper 2.5 - 4.0 7.5 A

C2 - O1

C3 - O1

C1 - O2

with

Chain Stitch

Triple Cover Stitch

(Wide O -1)

2 Thread overlock

" " " "

C3 - O2

3 Thread

C1 - C2 C 2.0 - 3.0 -- --

Cover St. Narrow

C2 - O2

(Narrow O - 2)

C 2.0 - 3.0

C1 C 2.0 - 3.0 -- --

C2 - C3

C1 - C3

2 Thread

Cover St. Wide

" " "

" "

Chain stitch

Notes : ( U - L - C ) = Upper - Lower - Chain looper

C H

( * ) = Tension settings on Chain Looper and on Cover/Stitch needles may vary depending on the threads.

Page 92

BLE8W-TA EI-33-E

2005 8.2000

Baby Lock EVOLVE User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual