Baby Lock Evolution, BLE8W-2 Instruction And Reference Manual

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"IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS"

When using overlock machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed,

including the following.

Read all instructions before using this overlock machine.

DANGER- To reduce the risk of electric shock.

1. The overlock machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this overlock machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

WARNING- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.

1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the sewing machine is used by or near children.

2. Use this overlock machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

3. Never operate this overlock machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the overlock machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

4. Never operate the overlock machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the overlock machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

6. Do not use outdoors.

7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol "O" position which represents off, then remove plug from outlet.

9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the overlock machine needle.

11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong needle plate can cause the needle to break.

12. Do not use bent needles.

13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle(s) causing it to break.

14. Switch the overlock machine to the symbol "O" position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading looper, or changing presser foot, and the like.

15. Always unplug the overlock machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any of the user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

16. Keep fingers away from moving parts, especially the area near the blades.

17. Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant National legislation relating to electrical / electronic products. If in doubt please contact your retailer for guidance.

18.

The appliance is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without supervi-

sion.

19. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.

"SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS"

"This overlock machine is intended for household use."

Welcome to the Baby Lock Evolution

Your Baby Lock Evolution provides chain stitching, cover stitching, and overlocking. The Baby Lock Evolution

has an exclusive "Thread Delivery System" that eliminates confusing tension adjustments. The Evolution enables

you to accomplish a perfect stitch with any type of thread on any type of fabric. You no longer need to guess at

the correct tension adjustments.

The Evolution is equipped with an exclusive Push to Thread "Electronic Extraordin Air Threading System".

It is no longer necessary to select the threading position. All looper threads may be threaded at the same time

or individually.

Your Baby Lock Evolution is a high-quality, dependable machine. It gives you the ability to seam, overcast and

trim all in one operation. Fabrics and threads you previously avoided are now a joy to sew because the Baby

Lock Evolution handles all varieties with equal ease. With the Baby Lock Evolution your creative options are end-

less and your time spent serging is more fulfilling and rewarding. With the "Extraordin Air Threading System",

even threading the Evolution is a breeze.

With proper care and maintenance, your Baby Lock Evolution promises years of high-quality, dependable per-

formance and sewing pleasure. Keep this instruction manual as a step-by-step guide to become familiar with

your Baby Lock Evolution and expand your sewing horizons.

For additional product information and updates, visit our website at www. babylock. com.

Happy Sewing!

T A B

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C O N

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Table of Contents

OVERVIEW ...................................................................................................................... 4

How Your Machine Operates.................................................................................. 4

Overview of the Evolution....................................................................................... 5

Accessories ............................................................................................................ 6

Needles .................................................................................................................. 7

Thread .................................................................................................................... 7

Optional Accessories.............................................................................................. 7

Setting Up Your Evolution.................................................................................... 8/9

Cutting Blade Lock Switch.................................................................................... 10

Cutting Blade Cover and Sewing Table ................................................................ 10

Upper Looper Positioning Lever ........................................................................... 10

Thread Cutter........................................................................................................ 11

Presser Foot Pressure Adjustment ....................................................................... 11

Snap-on Presser Foot........................................................................................... 11

Stitch Length / Rolled Hem................................................................................... 12

Stitch Width........................................................................................................... 12

Differential Feed ................................................................................................... 13

Overlock Thread Delivery System ........................................................................ 14

Stitch Selector Lever............................................................................................. 14

Wave Selector Lever ............................................................................................ 14

Side Cover............................................................................................................ 14

Chain/Cover Stitch Tension Dials ......................................................................... 15

Needle Tension Dial.............................................................................................. 15

Chain Looper Tension Dial.................................................................................... 15

2-Thread Subsidiary Looper ................................................................................. 16

Upper and Lower Looper Thread Fine-Tuning Knob............................................ 16

Notes .................................................................................................................... 17

THREADING .................................................................................................................. 18

Threading Preparation.......................................................................................... 18

Threading Your Evolution ..................................................................................... 19

Locked Position for Threading.............................................................................. 19

Thread Stand and Thread Port Reference Chart.................................................. 19

Lower Looper........................................................................................................ 20

Upper Looper........................................................................................................ 20

Chain Looper ........................................................................................................ 21

Chain/Cover Needles ........................................................................................... 22

Left Chain/Cover Needle - C-1 ............................................................... 22

Center Chain/Cover Needle - C-2 .......................................................... 22

Right Chain/Cover Needle - C-3............................................................. 22

Overlock Needles ................................................................................................. 23

Left Overlock Needle - O-1..................................................................... 23

Right Overlock Needle - O-2 .................................................................. 23

How to Use the Needle Threader ......................................................................... 24

Front Cover Seam Guide...................................................................................... 24

Start to Sew .......................................................................................................... 25

To Chain-Off of the Fabric..................................................................................... 25

Clearing the Stitch Width Fingers ......................................................................... 26

Re-threading Loopers........................................................................................... 26

OVERLOCK STITCHES - Express Stitches ................................................................ 27

4-Thread Overedging ........................................................................................... 27

Overlock Seam ..................................................................................................... 27

4-Thread Overlock................................................................................................ 28

3-Thread Overlock - Wide .................................................................................... 29

3-Thread Overlock - Narrow ................................................................................. 30

3-Thread Overlock - Narrow Hem ........................................................................ 31

Rolled Edging ....................................................................................................... 32

3-Thread Rolled Edge .......................................................................................... 32

Seaming Sheers ................................................................................................... 33

Lettuce Edge ........................................................................................................ 33

Belt Loops and Button Loops................................................................................ 33

Returning to Standard Serging ............................................................................. 33

3-Thread Flatlock - Narrow................................................................................... 34

2-Thread Overlock................................................................................................ 35

T A B

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Table of Contents (Cont.)

Converting from 3-Thread to 2-Thread Overlock.................................................. 35

2-Thread Flatlock - Wide ...................................................................................... 36

2-Thread Flatlock - Narrow................................................................................... 37

Blanket Stitch - Decorative Stitch.......................................................................... 38

Ladder Stitch - Decorative Stitch .......................................................................... 39

Wave Stitch........................................................................................................... 40

Converting from Normal Serging to Wave............................................................ 40

3-Thread Wave Stitch ........................................................................................... 41

3-Thread Rolled Wave Stitch ................................................................................ 42

3-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch........................................................................... 43

CHAIN/COVER STITCH - Express Stitches ................................................................ 44

Chain Stitching................................................................................................. 44/45

Chain Stitch - Tension Adjustment ......................................................... 45

Cover Stitch - Right Narrow - 3mm................................................................. 46/47

Cover Stitch Tension Adjustment ............................................................ 47

Cover Stitch - Left Narrow - 3mm .................................................................... 48/49

Cover Stitch Tension Adjustment ............................................................ 49

Cover Stitch - Wide - 6mm............................................................................... 50/51

Cover Stitch Tension Adjustment ............................................................ 51

Triple Cover Stitch - 6mm ................................................................................ 52/53

Triple Cover Stitch Tension Adjustment .................................................. 53

COMBINATION STITCH - Expressive Stitches........................................................... 54

4-Thread Safety Stitch..................................................................................... 54/55

5-Thread Safety Stitch..................................................................................... 56/57

7-Thread Wave Stitch ...................................................................................... 58/59

7-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch...................................................................... 60/61

8-Thread Stitch ................................................................................................ 62/63

Expressive Stiches: Chain/Cover Stitches Combined with Overlock Stitches .......64

Expressive Combinations ................................................................................ 64/65

TECHNIQUES................................................................................................................ 66

Turning Corners - Chain Stitch ............................................................................. 66

Turning Corners - Cover Stitch ............................................................................. 66

Turning Outside Corners - Overlock..................................................................... 67

Turning Inside Corners - Overlock........................................................................ 67

Flat Hemming - Cover Stitch................................................................................. 68

Hemming in the Round - Cover Stitch .................................................................. 68

Blind Hemming - Overlock.................................................................................... 69

Sewing Curves - Overlock .................................................................................... 69

Inserting Tapes - Overlock.................................................................................... 70

Inserting Tapes - Cover Stitch............................................................................... 70

Flatlock "Decorative" - Overlock ........................................................................... 71

Securing Ends - Overlock................................................................................ 72/73

Securing Chain and Cover Stitching..................................................................... 74

Notes .................................................................................................................... 75

SPECIALTY THREADS ................................................................................................. 76

Using Specialty Threads....................................................................................... 76

Lightweight Threads.................................................................................... 76

Medium weight Threads.............................................................................. 76

Heavy weight Threads ................................................................................ 76

Bypassing the Threading Port .............................................................................. 77

Looper Threading Tool.......................................................................................... 78

Thread Cradle for Loopers ................................................................................... 79

Specialty Thread Guide Chart ......................................................................... 80/81

MAINTENANCE............................................................................................................. 82

Troubleshooting............................................................................................... 82/83

Replacing Needles ............................................................................................... 84

Replacing Cutting Blades ..................................................................................... 85

Replacing LED Lighting ........................................................................................ 85

Cleaning ............................................................................................................... 86

TECHNICAL DATA ........................................................................................................ 87

Technical data....................................................................................................... 87

STITCH SELECTION CHART ....................................................................................... 88

Chart for Stitch Selection Setting for Chain/Cover and Combination Stitches. 88/89

O V E R V

How Your Machine Operates

Sometimes called an overlock machine or overlocker, the serger is different from any conventional sewing

machine you have used. Awareness of its simple operation will enable you to become more proficient in its use.

Please read all instructions before using your new machine.

A serger is kind of a knitting process that loops two, three or four threads together to create a stitch.

Your Baby Lock Evolution operates with one or two needles in the overlock position and one or two loopers to

form an overlock stitch. Use one, two or three chain/cover stitch needles and one looper for a chain or cover

stitch. Uniquely independent of each other, you can use any of the overlock or chain/cover stitch selections sep-

arately or in combination.

When fabric is placed in front of the presser foot, it reaches the feed dogs first. The feed dogs move the fabric

along as the cutting blades trim the fabric edge, creating a clean edge to be finished. Or disengage your blade

and insert the sewing table to sew a chain stitch in the center of your fabric.

The overlock stitch is supported by one or more parallel "stitch finger(s)" that keep the fabric flat. To form an

overlock stitch, the threads become "locked" "over" the edge of the fabric encasing the raw edge with thread to

prevent fabric raveling. When forming a chain stitch, the chain needle thread catches the chain looper to form a

straight stitch on the top of your fabric and thread chain loops on the underside. Use 2 or 3 cover stitch needles

and the chain looper to form a double or triple row of straight stitching on the top and a weave of thread on the

underside of your fabric.

After setting up your machine for the first time, take a few moments to learn how it sews. Before your machine

is threaded, turn the handwheel toward you and watch the operation of the various parts.

V E

Overview of the Evolution

1. Upper looper positioning lever 18. Threading lever

2. Presser foot adjusting screw 19. Chain looper threading port

3. Thread cutter 20. Threading button

4. Presser foot thread release lever* 21. Differential feed adjusting lever

5. Chain/cover stitch needle tension dial 22. Handwheel

6. Needle height viewing area 23. Lower looper threading port

7. Needle clamp screws 24. Power switch

8. Snap-on presser foot 25. Overlock stitch selector

9. Needle plate 26. Accessory compartment & spool stand

10. Stitch width adjusting dial 27. Upper looper threading port

11. Side cover 28. Chain/cover stitch looper tension dial

12. Cutting blade lock switch 29. Carrying handle

13. Stitch length/rolled hem adjusting dial 30. Wave Selector Lever

14. Cutting blade cover 31. Upper & Lower looper thread

15. Needle drop drawer fine-tuning screw

16. Subsidiary looper 32. Telescopic thread guide and antenna

17. Front cover

* Raising the presser foot releases all threads.

O V E R V

Accessories

Your Baby Lock Evolution serger has a built-in accessory compartment. To open, swing the "lid" on the thread spoolstand to the right to reveal the tray holding some of the accessories listed below. Others may be found in the machine packing materials.

Accessory Number included Located in

Instruction manual 1 Packing box

Quick reference threading guide 1 Packing box

Flat table for chain/cover stitching 1 Packing box

Thread guide extension 1 Packing box

Guide fixing screws for table 2 In flat table

Lint brush/needle insert tool 1 Accessory compartment

Package of assorted sized needles 1 Accessory compartment

Organ ELx705CF

Allen screwdriver 1 Accessory compartment

Tweezers 1 Accessory compartment

Upper cutting blade for replacement 1 Accessory compartment

Needle threader 1 Accessory compartment

Overlock needle screws 2 Accessory compartment

Chain/Cover stitch needle screws 2 Accessory compartment

Looper threading tool 1 Accessory packet

Screwdriver 1 Accessory packet

Machine cover 1 Accessory packet

Mounting bolt with washer 1 Accessory packet

Thread nets 8 Accessory packet

Spool caps 8 Accessory packet

Sponge disks 8 Accessory packet

Cone holders 8 On machine

Your Baby Lock Evolution serger is set up to use either Schmetz or Organ ELx705CF needles size 90/14. This is suitable for most medium and heavyweight fabrics. For lightweight fabrics use size 80/12, ELx705CF needles. The ELx705CF needle is a semi-ballpoint design and is suitable for knits and wovens.

V E R V

Needles

Thread

All types of thread may be used on your Baby Lock, but 100% long-staple polyester thread, crosswound on a cone, consistently provides the best stitch performance. Because the threads must pass through several thread guides at high speeds, they must be of uniform thickness and high strength with a minimum amount of linting.

Good-quality cotton or cotton-covered polyester threads sew well, though they produce more lint, creating the need to clean the machine more frequently. They work well for overedging and seaming, but they may be too weak or too fuzzy for the rolled edge. Poor grades of thread can result in frequent fraying, breaking and unbalanced stitches.

Threads of other fiber contents and weights may be used, depending on their strength and thickness. Testing will help you determine how easily they can pass through the thread guides, thread slots, needles and loopers.

Important Note: For maximum performance of the Baby Lock Evolution, it is recommended to use "100% polyester-long fiber thread". Recommended brands are Maxi-Lock and Metrosene. This thread also performs best when used with many decorative threads for sewing specialty decorative techniques.

Optional Accessories

OVERLOCK OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES

Beading Foot B5002-04A-C-E (BLE8-BF) Blindhem Foot B5002S06A-E (BLE8-BLHF) Elastic Applicator Foot B5002S09A-E (BLE8-EF) Lace Applicator Foot B5002S08A-E (BLE8-LF) Piping Foot/5mm Cording B5002-05A-C-E (BLE8-CF) Ruffling Foot B5002S07A-E (BLE8-RF) Clear Foot B5002S14A-E (BLE8-CLF)

CHAIN/COVER STITCH OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES

Belt Loop Folder 3/4" B0421S12A-E (BLE8-S12) Belt Loop Folder 1-1/2" B0421S11A-E (BLE8-S11) Double Fold Bias Binder 28mm B0421S03A-E (BLE8-S3) Double Fold Bias Binder 36mm B0421S02A-E (BLE8-S2) Elastic Gatherer 7.5mm U.S.A. only (BLE8-EG7) Elastic Gatherer 10mm U.S.A. only (BLE8-EG10) Elastic Gatherer 13mm U.S.A. only (BLE8-EG13) Fabric Guide B0420S01A-E (BLE8-FG) Gathering Guide U.S.A. only (BLE8-GG) Pintuck Foot w/2 Guides B5002-06A-C-E (BLE8-PTF) Plain Hemmer 1/4" B0421S07A-E (BLE8-S7) Plain Hemmer 1/2" B0421S06A-E (BLE8-S6) Single Downturn Feller 1/4" B0421S10A-E (BLE8-S10) Single Downturn Feller 5/8" B0421S08A-E (BLE8-S8) Single Downturn Feller 1" B0421S09A-E (BLE8-S9) Single Fold Bias Binder 28mm B0421S04A-E (BLE8-S4) Single Fold Bias Binder 40mm B0421S05A-E (BLE8-S5)

OTHER OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES

Top Stitch Needle Size 90 (T-90B)

O V E R V

Setting Up Your Evolution

1. Remove machine from box

After removing the packing materials from the box, gently lift your Baby Lock serger by grasping the handle provided on the top of the machine. Place the machine on a serger sewing table or any level surface that provides ample work area to the left. Place the foot controller in a pedal stay, if desired, and place it under the sewing table.

2. Plug in the machine

Plug the power cord into the machine first, then into a wall outlet. The power switch is located toward the back on the right side of the machine. Always make sure the power is off when the machine is not in use (fig. A). Available foot controller for U.S.A.: Model YC-482.

3. Polarized plug

This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

4. Foot controller

The sewing speed of the machine is determined by the amount of pressure applied to the foot controller. When not in use, do not place anything on the foot controller, or the machine could start inadvertently and the controller or motor could burn out.

5. Spool pin extension table

To insert the spool pin extension: Place the pegs into the slots on the back of the main thread spool stand. Push the extension thread stand onto the main thread spool stand until it snaps into place (fig. B). To remove: Hold the back of the extension table with both hands. Raise it up and out to release from the main thread spool stand (fig. C).

V E

Setting Up Your Evolution (Cont.)

6. Position the telescopic thread guide.

Raise the telescopic thread guide to its highest position. Rotate the shaft to the left and right until each section "clicks" into a locked position (fig. D).

7. Thread guide extension

To install: Snap & lower. Place plastic support of thread guide extension on top of main telescopic thread guide. Support the main guide with one hand and snap the extension guide to the back with your other hand (fig. D). Lower into position. To remove: Raise & pivot. Raise the plastic support straight up and pivot the back of the support up to release (fig. E).

8. Opening front cover

The front cover may be opened simply by placing your fingers behind the tab at the right side and pulling toward you (fig. F).

9. Opening Cutting blade cover

To open the cutting blade cover, place your thumb against the tab, and slide the cover to the right. A slight pull toward you will allow the cover to swing down, providing access to the loopers, blades, and thread guides (fig. G).

V E

Your machine is pre-set to sew an overlock with a chain stitch. The upper blade is engaged to cut the fabric while sewing. Of course, you may select to engage or disengage the cutting blade. You can change the blade cover to the sewing table and lock the upper looper down when sewing only the chain stitch.

6.0

3.5

3.0

5.5

LOCK

Cutting Blade Lock Switch

Cutting Blade Cover and Sewing Table

Upper Looper Positioning Lever

To lock cutting blade down: Turn the dial clockwise 180 degrees to see "LOCK" on the top. The cutting blade will stay below the needle plate for non-cutting techniques (fig. A).

To re-engage cutting blade: Turn the cutting blade lock switch half of a turn counter-clockwise. The blade will start moving automatically when you start sewing.

Cutting blade cover can be changed to sewing table for chain/cover stitching a) Open front cover and cutting blade cover (page 9, fig. F & G). b) Gently pull toward you to unsnap cover (fig. B) and snap sewing table into

place (fig. C). c) Lower the upper looper positioning lever down (fig.D). d) Close the sewing table door and then the front cover (fig. E).

When you change from overlocking to chain/cover stitching, you should also change the upper looper positioning lever to the "DOWN" position before you close the sewing table door. a) Turn the handwheel until upper looper is at its lowest position. b) Change the upper looper positioning lever to the "DOWN" position (fig. D). c) Close the sewing table door and then the front cover (fig. E).

Note: Make sure the upper looper positioning lever is in the "UP" position prior to locking the machine to thread the upper looper.

V E R V

Thread Cutter

Presser Foot Pressure Adjustment

Snap-On Presser Foot

There is a thread cutter located on the left side of your Evolution. At the end of a seam, sew off the fabric edge and continue sewing to create a 5-6 inch (12.5-15cm) thread chain. Bring the chain of thread up and from the back to front through the thread cutter.

The presser foot pressure has been preset at the factory and rarely needs adjustment. You may find it necessary, however, to decrease the pressure for thick fabrics or increase pressure for thin fabrics to feed more smoothly under the foot. Use a coin to turn the screw on top of the machine. To increase pressure, turn the pressure adjusting screw clockwise. To decrease pressure, turn the screw counterclockwise.

The Evolution has the convenience of a snap-on presser foot.

To Release:

1. Raise the presser foot lever.

2. Lock the cutting blade down.

3. Raise the needles to the highest position.

4. Push the presser foot release lever located at the back of the presser foot holder.

5. Carefully turn the presser foot clockwise 90 degrees.

6. Slide the presser foot to the rear to remove.

To Replace:

1. Raise the presser foot lever.

2. Lock the cutting blade down.

3. Raise the needles to the highest position.

4. Slide the foot from the left to right.

5. Align the bar of the foot with the groove in the holder.

6. Lower the presser foot lever to snap into place.

The presser foot that comes with the Evolution has a tape sewing slot. Insert the tape or ribbon, into the slot in the front of the foot, then under the sole of the foot (page 70 for more instruction).

The raised markings on the toe of the foot are seam line guides. They indicate the needle positions to help guide your fabric for accurate seaming.

Presser Foot Release Lever

V E R V

Stitch Length/Rolled Hem

Stitch Width

The stitch length / rolled hem adjusting dial is conveniently located just to the left of the front cover, near the base plate (fig. A). The dial shows two stitchlength ranges, from 0.75, for the shortest stitch, to 4 for the longest. As the dial indicates, one range is for standard sewing and one is for rolled edging or narrow seaming. Simply turn the dial aligning the desired setting with the indicator mark on the machine. A stitch length of 3mm, or about 10 stitches per inch is ideal for seaming and overedging most fabrics. For overedging or seaming very lightweight fabrics, you may prefer a shorter stitch length. When sewing heavier fabrics, you may choose to lengthen the stitch (fig. B) .

Note: 0.75mm is located between the 0 and 1 on both standard & rolled

settings.

The stitch width adjusting dial is located above the stitch length dial (fig. A). The stitch width displays two sets of numbers, indicating two width ranges. for overlock stitches. The larger numbers at each end of the dial, 5.5 and 7.5mm, denote the stitch width when the 0-1 (left hand) needle is in use. The smaller numbers,

3.0 and 5.0mm, apply when only the 0-2 (right-hand) needle is in use for forming a 3-thread stitch. The "M" setting (3.5) is for the rolled edge.

Adjusting the stitch width moves the upper cutting blade. It also moves the stitch fingers further apart or closer together for complete fabric support with any stitch width.

The stitch width is infinitely variable between either end of the range. Simply turn the dial aligning the desired setting with the indicator mark on the machine. Use a wider stitch on loosely woven fabrics. You may prefer a narrower stitch width on knits, tightly woven, or sheer fabrics (fig. B).

V E R V

Differential Feed

Your Baby Lock serger is equipped with differential feed.The set of feed dogs work independently in order to ensure smooth sewing on all fabrics.

When the differential feed adjusting lever, located at the machine's right, front edge is set on "N" for normal feeding, the feed dogs move the same distance. This is the setting to use for most fabrics and applications.

When the dial is set above "N" (fig.B), the front feed dog will feed more fabrics than the back. This is because the front feed dog moves at a greater distance than the back feed dogs. As a result, the fabric becomes compressed or eased, as the diagram on the front cover indicates. This can eliminate wavy seams in stretchy fabrics or those cut on the bias grain (fig.A).

At the maximum setting of 2.0 (fig. C), the differential feed can gather a lightweight fabric to nearly double fullness (fig. D). The front feed dog is actually feeding in twice as much fabric as the back feed dog is feeding out. To maximize the gathering effects, use the longest stitch length setting. Fabric weight will affect the gathering. Test stitch for desired results.

When the differential feed lever is set below "N" (fig. F), the front feed dog moves less distance than the back feed dog. This adjustment stretches the fabric slightly as it is sewn. The lower settings prevent puckers on lightweight fabric (fig. E), add more stretch to swim wear, active wear, and can be used to create a lettuce edge (page 33).

V E R V

Overlock Thread Delivery System

Stitch Selector Lever

Side Cover

The Baby Lock Evolution revolutionizes the way a serger works with its exclusive overlock Thread Delivery System. You no longer have to manually adjust the tension settings for the type of overlock stitch you are sewing. Select the type of overlock stitch you wish to serge, the Evolution will automatically feed the correct amount of thread through the needles, the loopers and thread guides to form a perfect stitch every time.

The stitch selector lever which controls the overlock thread delivery system for overlock stitching is located on the right side of the machine. Select appropriate setting, A, B, C, or D.

A - for overlock stitches using the left needle (O-1) and the looper threads

balanced.

B - for overlock stitches using the right needle (O-2) and the looper threads

balanced. C - for narrow stitches with a short length and the looper threads balanced. D - for stitches that require a tight lower looper.

For best results, use setting B or C for WAVE stitching. See chart on last page for stitch selection settings.

Open side door on the left for easy access to the chain looper thread tray. Close door before sewing.

Wave Selector Lever

The Wave Selector lever shows "OVERLOCK" and "WAVE". Select "OVERLOCK" for overlock stitching. Select "WAVE" for wave stitching

V E

Chain/Cover Stitch Tension Dials

The tension system of the chain and cover stitches are completely separate from the system being used on the overlock stitches. Unlike the thread delivery system of the overlock stitches, the tensions of the chain / cover stitch needles and chain looper are adjusted by dials located on the outer sides of your Evolution.

Needle Tension Dial

The needle tension dial is located on the top left side of the machine. One tension dial controls all 3 of the chain/cover stitch needle selections. Normally set at "5", the dial can be turned from 0 - 9 to increase or decrease the tension on the chain/cover stitch needle threads. Increase the tension by turning the dial to a larger number. Decrease the tension by turning the dial to a smaller number. Align the number with the indicator mark on the front of the machine near the dial.

Chain Looper Tension Dial

The chain looper tension dial is divided into 2 sections - Chain Stitch and Cover Stitch. The dial is located on the top right side of the machine. Align the selected tension setting with the indicator mark on the front right of the machine.

The Chain Stitch section of the looper tension dial has a tighter looper tension for sewing chain stitch. Select the row of stripes on the dial for chain stitching. The wider the stripe the tighter the chain looper tension.

The Cover Stitch section of the looper tension dial has a looser tension for sewing wide, narrow or triple cover stitches. Select the solid line on the dial for cover stitch tension settings. The closer to the wide horizontal mark indicates looser tension for cover stitching.

6 



V E R V

2-Thread Subsidiary Looper

Either needle thread may be engaged for 2-thread overlock sewing

1. Open the front cover and the blade cover, cut the upper looper thread just above the threading port (fig. A). Raise the presser foot and pull out the clipped thread from under the foot. Remove the upper looper thread from the machine.

2. Rotate the handwheel to bring the upper looper to its lowest position.

3. Rotate the subsidiary looper up and to the left (fig. B), insert the end into the upper looper eye (fig. C).

4. Close the blade cover and the front cover.

Upper and Lower Looper Thread Fine-Tuning Knob

No adjustments are needed when sewing with most fabrics and threads on your Baby Lock Evolution, but certain threads or fabrics may require minor fine-tuning of the looper delivery system to perfect your stitches. Increase or decrease the delivery of the looper threads with the upper and lower looper thread fine-tuning knob. With your finger tips, turn the fine-tuning knob clockwise to tighten the looper threads equally. Turn the knob counter-clockwise to loosen the looper threads equally.

Ideal Stitch

Standard Position

Upper and lower

looper threads are

too loose.

Tighten the screw (+)

loosen the screw (-)

Upper and lower

looper threads are

too tight.

Notes:

T H R E A D

Threading Preparation

When using threads on cones or king spools place the cone or spool secure-

ly over the cone holders furnished on your machine. To avoid bending the

thread stand, you may need to place one hand under the stand while posi-

tioning the cone. The cone holders prevent the cone or spool from spinning,

enabling the thread to feed evenly (fig.A).

Because threads for the serger feed from the top, standard spool threads

can snag on the rough edges of many of these spools. That's why spool

caps are furnished with your serger to provide a smooth surface that

enables the thread to reel off freely. With the spool notch side down, insert

a spool cap into the top of the spool (fig.B).

When using standard spool threads on your serger, replace the cone hold-

ers with the sponge disks furnished with your machine. These disks hold

smaller spools securely and help the thread to reel off properly. With the

sponge disk in place, put the capped spool on the spindle (fig.C).

Thread nets may be placed over threads that tend to slip off the bottom of

the spool during sewing. Most threads do not require their use, but nets

often are necessary with nylon, rayon or

silk threads (fig.D). Once it's on the spool,

fold the net back on itself. Pull thread from

the top of spool to enable the thread to

feed evenly (fig.E).

Standard sewing thread with spool cap.

Standard sewing thread with sponge disk and spool cap.

Thread net on thread.

Large spools with Cone Holders.

Pulling thread through thread net.

T H R

A D

I N G

Threading Your Evolution

Threading Position for Threading, Thread Stand and Thread Port Reference Chart

Your Baby Lock Evolution is equipped with an exclusive "Electrionic Extraordin Air Threading System" for fast, easy threading of the upper, lower, and chain loopers. One touch of the "Push to Thread" button will automatically thread the loopers. It is no longer necessary to use tweezers for threading the thread guides. If a looper thread breaks or runs out, just re-thread it. There is no need to follow a specific threading sequence.

1. Open the front cover.

2. Raise the presser foot to release all threads.

3. Set the threading lever from serging position to threading position (fig.A).

4. Rotate the machine handwheel slowly toward you until the tubes move to connectiong position (fig.B).

Note: The Evolution must be in the locked position when threading the loopers unless otherwise indicated.

The spool pins and threading ports are color coded for your convenience.

All gold color labels relate to threading for chain and cover stitches.

All green color labels relate to threading for overlock stitches.

CHAIN

NEEDLE

CHAIN

NEEDLE

CHAIN

NEEDLE

OVERLOCK

NEEDLE

OVERLOCK

NEEDLE

UPPER

LOOPER

LOWER

LOOPER

CHAIN

LOOPER

T H R E A D

Lower Looper

1. With the presser foot up and threding lever in the threading position (fig. A page 19).

2. Place the thread cone or spool on the "LOWER LOOPER" spool pin on the thread stand. Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide "L" directly above the spool (fig.C,page 19). Snap the thread into the thread guide "L" at the top of the machine and through the slot above the front cover (fig. A).

3. Pull 18 inches (40cm) of thread through guide. Insert the end of the thread into the threading port "L" about 1/2 inch (1.2cm). Use the tweezers, if necessary, to insert the thread end more easily (fig. E, page 21).

4. Push the threading button (fig. E page 21). If the thread does not go through the lower looper eye with one push, push the threading button again until it does.

5. Clip the thread 4 inches (10cm) from the lower looper eye and leave it hanging loose.

6. Set the threading lever to serging position.

Upper Looper

1. Set the upper looper positioning lever at "UP" position. See picture below for reference.

2. With the presser foot up and threading lever in the threading position (fig. A, page 19).

3. Place the thread on the "UPPER LOOPER" spool pin on the thread stand. Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide "U" directly above the spool (fig. C, Page 19). Snap the thread into the thread guide "U" at the top of the machine and through the slot above the front cover (fig. A).

4. Pull 18 inches (40cm) of thread through guide. Insert the end of the thread into the threading port "U", about 1/2 inch (1.2cm). Use tweezers, if necessary, to insert the thread end more easily (fig. E, page 21).

5. Push the threading button (fig. E page 21). If the thread does not go through the upper looper eye with one push, push the threading button again until it does, and leave thread hanging loose.

6. Set the threading lever to serging position.

Note: Make sure that the upper looper positioning lever is always set in the "UP" position whenever you sew

overlock or combination stitches.(fig B)

1. With the presser foot in the up position, open the front cover and move the threading lever into the threading position (fig. A page 19).

2. Set the stitch selector lever to "D" position for easy threading of the chain looper tension dial.

3. Place the thread cone or spool on the "Chain Looper" spool pin. Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide extension C directly above the spool (fig. C, page19).

4. Insert the thread through the guide above the chain looper tension dial from right to left. Bring the thread to the back and under the thread guide, then up and over the tension dial (fig.D inset).

5. Put thread into guide on front of dial, then down to the chain looper threading port.

6. Pull 18 inches (45cm) of thread and insert 1/2 inch (1.2cm) of thread into the chain looper threading port. Use tweezers if necessary, to insert the thread end (fig. E).

7. Push the threading button (fig. E). If the thread does not go through the chain looper eye with one push, push the threading button again until it does.

8. Open side cover to the left for easy access to the chain looper thread in tray ( fig. F).

9. Trim excess thread to 4 inches (10cm) from the eye of chain looper and leave it hang.

10. Close side cover.

11. Set the threading lever to serging position.

T H R

A D

I N G

Chain Looper

Push to Thread Button

Chain Looper Thread Tray

Side Cover

Left Chain/Cover Needle C-1

1. Raise presser foot, place the thread on the "Chain Needle 1" spool pin. Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide "C1" directly above the spool. See drawings below for reference.

2. Bring thread down from the telescopic antenna thread guide into the far left chain/cover needle thread guide "C1". Then insert thread into "C1" slot until thread clicks in. This seats the thread into the tension. Bring the thread behind the front thread guide, up, over and down the right side of the thread take up lever.

3. Insert "C1" thread into pre-tension thread guide on needle clamp and into thread guide above the needle. See drawings below for reference.

4. With the needle threader or tweezers in the accessory compartment, thread needle in "C1" position.

Center Chain/Cover Needle C-2

1. Raise presser foot, place the thread on the "Chain Needle 2" spool pin. Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide "C2" directly above the spool. See drawings below for reference.

2. Bring thread down from the telescopic antenna thread guide into the center chain/cover needle thread guide "C2". Then insert thread into "C2" slot until thread clicks in. This seats the thread into the tension. Bring the thread behind the front thread guide, up, over and down the right side of the thread take up lever.

3. Insert "C2" thread into pre-tension thread guide on needle clamp and into thread guide above the needle. See drawings below for reference.

4. With the needle threader or tweezers in the accessory compartment, thread needle in "C2" position.

Right Chain/Cover Needle C-3

1. Raise presser foot, place the thread on the "Chain Needle 3" spool pin. Slip the thread into the telescopic antenna thread guide "C3" directly above the spool. See drawings below for reference.

2. Bring thread down from the telescopic antenna thread guide into the far right chain/cover needle thread guide "C3". Then insert thread into "C3" slot until thread clicks in. This seats the thread into the tension. Bring the thread behind the front thread guide, up, over and down the right side of the thread take up lever.

3. Insert "C3" thread into pre-tension thread guide on needle clamp and into thread guide above the needle. See drawings below for reference.

4. With the needle threader or tweezers in the accessory compartment, thread needle in "C3" position.

T H R E A D

Chain / Cover Needles

Left Overlock Needle - O-1

1. Place the thread on the "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 1" spool pin (fig. C, page 19). Bring the thread end through the telescopic guide directly above the thread. Bring the thread through thread guide at top of machine and down the "overlock needle I" thread path and in the guide just below the faceplate. Pull an 8 inch (20.5cm) length of thread through the guide. Follow the arrows as shown in the illustration. Thread the guides above the needle.

2. Using the needle threader or tweezers, thread into the eye of O-1 needle.

Right Overlock Needle - O-2

1. Place the thread on the "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 2" spool pin (fig. C, page 19). Bring the thread end through the telescopic guide directly above the thread. Bring the thread through thread guide at top of machine and down the "overlock needle 2" thread path and in the guide just below the faceplate. Pull an 8 inch (20.5cm) length of thread through the guide. Follow the arrows as show in the illustration. Thread the guides above the needle.

2. Using the needle threader or tweezers, thread the eye of O-2 needle.

Note: Make sure that each needle is set for overlock stitching; right needle is O-2 and left needle is O-1.

T H R

A D

I N G

Overlock Needles

Use the marks on your serger's front cover to align the fabric the desired seam width. Set the width dial at the "M" setting for accurate seam allowances.

T H R E A D

How To Use The Needle Threader

5/8 inch

1. Hold the needle threader with the arrow mark on top. Place the thread in the groove of the needle threader. (fig.A)

2. Push the needle threader against needle and slide down the groove of the needle to the eye. Push the thread into the eye of the needle.

3. With a point of the needle threader or the tweezers pull the loop of thread from the back of the needle, under the foot and to the back left.

Front Cover Seam Guide

1. The chain stitch (C-3) combined with the 3 thread overlock is the most common 5-thread combination.

The mark closest to the needles indicates 5/8 inch

(16mm) from the cutting edge to the C-3 chain needle.

2. When using the left overlock needles (O-1) for either a 3 or 4 thread overlock seam, the second mark from the needles indicates 5/8 inch (16mm) from the cutting edge to the O-1 overlock needle.

3. Use the right overlock needle (O-2) for 3 thread overlock seam and the third mark from the needles indicates 5/8 inch (16mm) from the cutting edge to the O2 overlock needle.

4. Other marks on the front cover are for any custom seam allowance.

Note: Be sure to set the width dial at the "M" setting for accurate seam allowances.

When threading is complete, the loose threads should initially interlock on fabric. This is most important when sewing the chain or cover stitches.

T H R

A D

I N G

Start To Sew

1. Cut all threads to 4 inch (10cm) in length.

2. Place fabric under the presser foot directly below the needles (fig. A).

3. Lower the presser foot.

4. Turn the handwheel toward you to form 2 or 3 stitches.

5. Start to sew slowly.

6. After the first few stitches, stop and cut excess threads (fig. B).

7. Start the next seam at the toe of the presser foot (fig. C).

8. You only need to raise and lower the presser foot when working with thick fabrics or when precise positioning is required.

Note: Be careful not to push or pull the fabric. The Evolution will feed

it evenly without help.

To Chain-Off of the Fabric

Your Evolution will sew a chain off the edge of the fabric. For best results, we recommend to follow the instruc-

tions below.

Overlock stitches-

1. At the end of the seam, gently pull the fabric and thread to the back to chain-off (fig. A).

2. When the desired length is reached, cut the thread chain with the thread cutter located on the left side cover (fig. B).

3. Start the seam by placing the fabric under the front of the foot (fig. C).

Chain/Cover stitches-

1. At the end of the seam, change the stitch length to 4 and chain needle tension set at a range from 2 to 0.

2. Let the thread flow from the back of the foot 2-4 inches without pulling.

3. Start the seam by placing the fabric under the front of the foot.

A B C

T H R E A D

Clearing the Stitch Width Fingers

Re-threading Loopers

If a thread breaks, raise the presser foot and pull the broken thread out from under the foot. Open the front cover and engage the threading lever (page 19). Re-thread the machine above the threading port, leaving an 18inch (45cm) thread tail. Thread the looper as usual then engage the threading lever to the serging position, (page 20/21). Close the front cover and sew a test sample.

Note: When re-threading your Baby Lock Evolution using the "Extraordin Air Threading" feature, make sure that the previous thread that was in the looper (tube) is completely removed. This will eliminate any chance of the previous thread obstructing the flow of the air when re-threading the machine.

As you sew, you will discover that maneuvering the fabric is different from conventional sewing because the threads form around the stitch fingers (fig. A).

To clear the stitch fingers, simply raise the presser foot, which releases all threads. Raise the needle(s). Then pull the threads gently from behind the foot (fig. B). The stitches are now released from the fingers (fig. C).

Overedging to finish facings, hems and seams before construction, is one of the most basic uses of a serger, such as making a garment or project with 5/8 inch (16mm) pressed open seams (fig. A).

To overedge, place the single layer of fabric in front of the presser foot, aligning the cut edge with upper cutting blade. Begin sewing, continuing to guide the fabric along the blade. The edge of the fabric should be trimmed, but not cut away. Then sew the seams on your conventional sewing machine and press them open as usual (fig. B).

Because notches would be cut away in this process, mark them before sewing with "V" snips just inside the seam allowance or with a water-soluble fabric marker (fig. C).

Note: A 2-thread overlock or 3-thread overlock can also be used with this technique.

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4-Thread Overedging

Overlock Seam

For garments or projects that do not require conventional pressedopen seams, you can stitch and finish the seam in one operation and then press the seams to one side (fig. A). A 4 or 3-thread seam is strong, yet it provides "give" or flexibility according to the needs of the fabric.

Place two layers of fabric right sides together. Use the marks on your serger's front cover to align the fabric for the desired seam width. Keep your eye on the fabric edge to guide it to the appropriate mark (fig. B).

Do not watch the needle. If you guide the fabric accurately, the needle will seam in the correct place automatically.

Note: For most seaming, pins are unnecessary because the serger feeds the fabric evenly. If you need pins, place the pins parallel to the seam line outside the seam allowance to avoid damaging the blades.

〈〉

With the Evolution overlock Thread Delivery System, the upper and lower looper threads lock together evenly over the cut fabric edge(s) to form a flat, non-rolling pattern of overlocking stitches on both sides of the fabric.

The left (O1) needle thread interlocks with both looper threads at the stitching line to create the seam. The right (O2) needle thread, visible on the top side of the stitch, interlocks with both the loopers to add durability. The thread, that resembles a zigzag on the upper side of the fabric, is from the upper looper. The thread, that resembles a zig zag on the lower side of the fabric, is from the lower looper.

Move the stitch selector lever to "A".

For the perfect 4-thread overlock stitch, follow the suggested settings and threading diagram below.

V E R

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T C H E S

E X P R E S S

4-Thread Overlock

NEEDLES

O-1, O-2

LENGTH

2.5 - 3.5

WIDTH

6.5 - 7.5

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE SELECTOR OVERLOCK

〈〉

V E

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S T

T C H

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3-Thread Overlock - Wide

The 3-thread overlock wide stitch is perfect for edge-finishing most woven fabrics and for seaming knits that do not require the extra durability that a fourth thread provides.

To convert your serger to a 3-thread overlock wide (5.5-7.5mm), cut the O2 needle thread just above the needle eye (fig. A). Remove the O-2 needle and thread completely from the machine. Re-tighten the needle clamp screw slightly to prevent the screw from working out (fig. B).

Move the stitch selector lever to "A".

For O-1 needle, 3-thread overlock, follow the suggested settings and the threading diagram below.

NEEDLES

O-1

LENGTH

2 - 3

WIDTH

7.5

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

OVERLOCK

〈〉

To convert to narrow 3-thread overlock (3.0-5.0mm), cut the O-1 needle thread (fig. A). Remove the O-1 needle and O-1 needle thread completely from the machine. Tighten the needle clamp screw slightly to prevent the screw from working out (fig. B). Place needle into O-2 needle clamp position and tighten screw. Move the stitch selector lever to "B".

For the O-2 needle, 3-thread overlock sewing, follow the suggested settings and the threading diagram below.

V E R

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T C H E S

E X P R E S S

3-Thread Overlock - Narrow

NEEDLES

O-2

LENGTH

2.5 - 3.5

WIDTH

3.0

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

OVERLOCK

〈〉

V E

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3-Thread Overlock - Narrow Hem

Narrow Hem is an attractive finish for light to medium weight fabrics.

Remove the O-1 needle and needle thread completely from the machine. Clear the stitch fingers. Turn the stitch length adjusting dial clockwise to the rolled hem range. Set the length at "1" (fig. A) and the stitch width at 3.0 (fig. B) for a smooth decorative finish.

Move the stitch selector lever to "C".

For the O-2 needle 3-thread narrow hem, follow the suggested settings and the threading diagram below.

NEEDLES

O-2

LENGTH

0.75 - 4.0R

WIDTH

3.0

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

OVERLOCK

〈〉

The rolled edge setting is used to achieve the narrowest stitch possible (1.5mm) on your Baby Lock serger. The stitch is suitable for seaming sheer and lightweight fabrics and for edging and hemming lightweight fabrics.

V E R

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T C H E S

E X P R E S S

Rolled Edging

3-Thread Rolled Edge

With the stitch selector set on "D", a narrow hem can become a rolled edge. The fabric edge rolls around the stitch finger. The upper looper wraps the fabric edge while the lower looper thread is nearly invisible on the back side of the stitch formation.

Remove the 0-1 needle and thread. Clear the stitch fingers. Turn the stitch length adjusting dial clockwise into the rolled hem range and set the dial at 1.5 (fig. A). Set the stitch width dial to 3.5 "M" (fig. B).

For a 3-thread rolled edge, Move the stitch selector lever to "D".

NEEDLES

O-2

LENGTH

0.75-4.0R

WIDTH

3.5

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

OVERLOCK

〈〉

V E

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Seaming Sheers

Lettuce Edge

Belt Loops and Button Loops

Use the 3-thread rolled hem setting when sewing sheer fabrics. Set the stitch length at 2.5. Sew the seams, aligning the fabric edge with the serger's seam guides, trimming away the excess seam allowance.

A frilly or "lettuce" edge can be created on most light and medium weight stretch and on bias edges of soft, woven fabrics. It makes a pretty decorative edging for activewear, lingerie, accessories and children's wear.

Set the machine for the 3-thread rolled edge. Set differential feed at 0.6 (fig. B). Sew the fabric in the direction of greatest stretch-the crossgrain on knits, bias grain on wovens. For a "leafier" effect, try using a shorter stitch length and gently stretch the fabric (fig. A) as it is being sewn. Sew a test sample (fig. C).

Note:To avoid the stitching from pulling away from the fabric, increase the width to a slightly larger number.

Use the rolled edge thread chain, stitched without fabric, to make professional belt loops and button loops. Using heavier decorative thread gives a stronger loop.

Returning to Standard Serging

Clear the stitch fingers and return the stitch length dial to the standard range. Set stitch width and length at

the desired settings. Replace the left needle and its corresponding thread, if desired.

〈〉

Flatlock seams are most suited to fabrics which do not ravel such as interlock knits, tricot, sweatshirt fleece and synthetic suede. The needle thread is carried below the fabric and to the cut edge of the fabric. The lower looper thread rides along the cut edge of the fabric for stability. The edges pull open and flatten within the stitch for a non-bulky join (fig. A). Be sure to sew a test sample first to determine whether the stitch will have the strength to hold the seam without the fabric pulling away.

Move the stitch selector lever to "D".

For the O-2 needle 3-thread flatlock, follow the suggested settings and the threading diagram below.

V E R

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T C H E S

E X P R E S S

3-Thread Flatlock - Narrow

NEEDLES

O-2

LENGTH

2 - 3

WIDTH

3.0 - 3.5

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

OVERLOCK

〈〉

The 2-thread function provides an economical and less bulky means of overedging all fabrics. The standard 2-thread overlock is the same as a 2-thread flatlock stitch. When sewn with specialty threads, 2-thread sewing makes decorative seams and edges for activewear, children's clothing , ruffles, and hemlines.

V E

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2-Thread Overlock

Converting from 3-Thread to 2-Thread Overlock

Either overlook needle may be engaged for 2-thread overlock sewing.

1. Open the front cover and the blade cover. Cut the upper looper thread just above the threading port (fig. A).

2. Raise the presser foot and remove the upper looper and needle threads from the machine.

3. Rotate the handwheel to bring the upper looper into position to attach the subsidiary looper. Rotate the subsidiary looper up and to the left (fig.B) then slip the end into the upper looper eye. (fig.C)

4. Place the left needle thread on the "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 1" spool pin (or right needle thread on the "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 2" spool pin) and bring the thread through the telescopic thread guide directly above the spool of thread. Bring the thread through the top thread guide that is normally used for the upper looper (3rd from left), and down the front of the machine. Then take the thread to the left and thread the machine as you would for the needles in their normal position. (See illustration on page 36 and 37 for correct threading).

5. Using the needle threader in the accessory compartment, thread the eye of left needle O-1, (or right needle O-2). Place the looper and needle threads under the presser foot and to the back.

6. Close the cutting blade cover and front cover.

7. The needle and lower looper threads should overcast evenly on the cut edge of the fabric.

〈〉

When sewn on a fold, flatlocking can create a decorative effect within the body of a garment or project. Either follow placement lines on your pattern or design your own special effects by stitching the fabric before laying out pattern pieces. Then open the fabric fold until the flatlock stitching lies flat (fig. A).

Be sure to sew a test sample first.

For 2-thread flatlock - wide

1.Engage the threading lever in threading position.

2.Place the needle thread on the "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 1" spool pin.

3.Thread needle thread through the upper looper thread guide on top of the machine, then go down the thread path in the front of the machine. Go left with the needle thread at the hook on front of the machine. Then take the needle thread through the normal needle thread paths (see illustration below).

4.Turn the cutting blade to the "locked" position.

5. Engage the subsidiary looper (following step 3 on page 35).

6. Thread the lower looper as shown in the illustration below.

7. Engage the threading lever in the serging position.

For "loops" (lower looper thread) to show on the right side, place fabric wrong sides together for sewing the seam. To produce the "ladder" (needle thread) on the outside, place the fabric right sides together (fig. B).

Position the fabric under the presser foot, aligning the fold of the fabric 1/8 inch (3.5mm) to the left of the upper cutting blade. Note: If the fabric does not pull completely flat under the stitches, guide the fabric fold to the left so that the loops hang slightly off the fold as they are being stitched (fig.C).

Move the stitch selector lever to "A" and follow the suggested settings and threading diagram below.

V E R

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T C H E S

E X P R E S S

2-Thread Flatlock - Wide

Looper thread

Needle thread

NEEDLES

O-1

LENGTH

2 - 2.5

WIDTH

7.5

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

OVERLOCK

〈〉

Sew a 2-thread flatlock seam then pull the two fabric layers apart until the seam lies flat (fig. A). Because the threads show on the outside as well as the inside of the garment or project, the flatlock seam is often considered a decorative application (fig. B).

For 2-thread flatlock - narrow

Engage the threading lever in threading position.

2. Place needle thread on "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 2" spool pin

3. Thread needle thread through the upper looper thread guide on top of the machine, then go down the thread path in the front of the machine. Go left with the needle thread at the hook on front of the machine. Then take the needle thread through the normal needle thread paths (see illustration below).

4. Engage the subsidiary looper (following step 3 on page 35).

5. Thread the lower looper as shown in the illustration below.

6. Engage the threading lever in the serging position.

Before serging, select stitch pattern you want to have on the outside of the garment. For "loops" (lower looper thread) to show, place fabric wrong sides together for sewing the seam (fig. C). To produce the "ladder" (needle thread) on the outside, place the fabric right sides together (fig. D).

For 2-thread flatlock-narrow, follow the suggested settings and the threading diagram below.

V E

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2-Thread Flatlock - Narrow

Loop

Wrong side

Wrong Side

Right Side

Needle Thread

Looper Thread

Ladder

Wrong Side

Right Side

NEEDLES

O-2

LENGTH

3 - 3.5

WIDTH

3.5

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

OVERLOCK

〈〉

V E R

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T C H E S

E X P R E S S

Blanket Stitch - Decorative Stitch

Set up the machine for 2-thread flatlock - wide but the needle thread-

ing path is different for this technique.

1. Insert a size 90 top stitch needle in left overlock needle position.

2. Engage the threading lever in threading position.

3. Place a heavy decorative thread that will be used in the needle on

"OVERLOCK NEEDLE 1" spool pin and thread the needle thread

through upper looper thread path. (See below illustration.)

4. Engage the threading lever in the serging position, pull the thread

out of the upper looper tube and continue to thread the needle as

illustrated.

5. Thread Maxilock thread in the lower looper.

6. Swing the subsidiary looper into place on the upper looper.

7. Place water-soluble stabilizer on top of the fabric, along the edge.

8. Stitch along the edge of the fabric (fig.A).

9. When finished stitching, pull the water-soluble stabilizer to the right

of the fabric (fig.B). This will pull the stitching to the edge and will

look like a blanket stitch (fig.C).

Follow the suggested settings below.

NEEDLES

O-1

size 90 Top Stitch

Needle

LENGTH

4.0

WIDTH

7.5

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

OVERLOCK

〈〉

V E

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Ladder Stitch - Decorative Stitch

NEEDLES

O-1

size 90 Top Stitch

Needle

LENGTH

4.0

WIDTH

7.5

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

OVERLOCK

Set up the machine for 2-thread flatlock - wide but the needle threading path is different for this technique.

1. Insert a size 90 top stitch needle in left overlock needle position.

2. Engage the threading lever in threading position.

3. Place a heavy decorative thread that will be used in the needle on "OVERLOCK NEEDLE 1" spool pin and thread the needle thread through upper looper thread path. (See below illustration.)

4. Engage the threading lever in the serging position, pull the thread out of the upper looper tube and continue to thread the needle as illustrated.

5. Thread Maxilock thread in the lower looper.

6. Swing the subsidiary looper into place on the upper looper.

7. Place the fabric pieces right sides together for the decorative ladder to be on the right side of the fabric.(This can also be done on the fold as well.)

8. Sew the fabric together and gently pull open; revealing the decorative ladder stitching on the right side of the fabric.

Follow the suggested settings below.

Right Side

Wrong Side

Ladder

Right Side

Wrong Side

〈〉

V E R

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T C H E S

E X P R E S S

Wave Stitch

Converting from Normal Serging to Wave

The Wave Stitch provides a decorative "wavy" edging on fabric. (This is not to be confused with "Lettuce Edge" on page 33). The upper looper thread and the lower looper thread gradually appear every 25 stitches to create a stitch that looks like a "Wave". When using different color specialty threads (pages 76 /77) for the upper or lower loopers, the Wave stitch creates an attractive stitch for edging. When combining decorative threads for the Wave stitch, please sew test on a sample of the fabric you will be sewing on before applying the Wave stitch. For best results, heavier decorative threads should be limited to the upper or lower looper at one time. Not both upper looper and lower looper at the same time. Wooly nylon in the corresponding looper and maxilock thread in the right needle will make a striking combination with the heavy decorative thread.

1. Move the Wave Selector lever from "OVERLOCK" to "WAVE".

2. Cut the threads from the thread cones and remove from the thread paths.

3. Engage the threading lever in threading position, for threading the loopers (page 19).

4. Place the right needle thread cone on the OVERLOCK NEEDLE 2 spool pin.

5. Slip the right needle thread into the telescopic thread guide directly above the thread. Follow the left overlock needle threading path down to the right overlock needle.

6. Thread the O-2 needle using the needle threader (page 24).

7. Place the upper looper thread cone on the upper looper spool pin.

8. Slip the upper looper thread into the telescopic thread guide directly above the thread. Follow the top threading path for the right overlock needle thread, down the front threading path, to the left of the chrome thread guide, and directly to the "U" threading port for the upper looper. Thread the upper looper (page 20).

9. Place the needle thread and upper looper thread under the presser foot and to the back.

10. Place the lower looper thread cone on the lower looper spool pin.

11. Slip the lower looper thread into the telescopic thread guide directly above the thread, then slip the thread into the chain looper telescopic thread guide to avoid the thread getting tangled while sewing. Take the thread through the standard lower looper threading path to the "L" threading port for the lower looper. Thread the lower looper (page 20).

12. Engage the threading lever in the serging position.

13. Set Stitch Selector for Wave Stitch or Rolled Wave Stitch (page 41 to 43 for correct settings).

14. Set Stitch Length and Stitch Width (following the illustration on page 41, 42 or 43).

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V E

L O C

S T

T C H

P R

3-Thread Wave Stitch

NEEDLES

O-2

LENGTH

0.75 - 2.5

WIDTH

5.0

STITCH

SELECTOR

WAVE

SELECTOR

WAVE

1. Move the Wave Selector lever from "OVERLOCK" to "WAVE".

2. Cut the threads from the thread cones and remove from the thread paths.

3. Engage the threading lever in threading position for threading the loopers (page 19).

4. Place the right needle thread cone on the OVERLOCK NEEDLE 2 spool pin.

5. Slip the right needle thread into the telescopic thread guide directly above the thread. Follow the left

overlock needle threading path down to the right overlock needle.

6. Thread the O-2 needle using the needle threader (page 24).

7. Place the upper looper thread cone on the upper looper spool pin.

8. Slip the upper looper thread into the telescopic thread guide directly above the thread. Follow the top

threading path for the right needle thread, down the front threading path, to the left of the chrome

thread guide, and directly to the "U" threading port for the upper looper. Set the Looper Threader

Selector on "U". Thread the upper looper (page 20).

9. Place the needle thread and upper looper thread under the presser foot and to the back.

10. Place the lower looper thread cone on the lower looper spool pin.

11. Slip the lower looper thread into the telescopic thread guide directly above the thread, then slip the

thread into the chain looper telescopic thread guide to avoid the thread getting tangled while sewing.

Take the thread through the standard lower looper threading path to the "L" threading port for the lower

looper. Thread the lower looper (page 20).

12. Engage the threading lever in the serging position.

13. Set Stitch Selector on "B" for Wave Stitch.

14. Set Stitch Length and Stitch Width following the illustration below.

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V E R

C K

T C H E S

E X P R E S S

3-Thread Rolled Wave Stitch