Baby Lock Esante BLN Instruction and Reference Guide

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be taken, including the following: Read all instructions before using.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1. The machine should never be left unattended while plugged in. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.

2. Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

3. Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized retailer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

4. Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

6. Do not use outdoors.

7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol “ ” position which represents off, then remove plug from outlet.

9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.

11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

12. Do not use bent needles.

13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

14. Switch the machine to the symbol “ ” position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.

15. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

16. This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without supervision.

17. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this machine.

18. If the Light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

This machine is intended for household use.

FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA

AND CYPRUS ONLY

If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug, then please read the following.

IMPORTANT

If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs, an approved fuse must be fitted in the plug.

NOTE

The plug severed from the main lead must be destroyed, as a plug with bared flexible cords is hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event that the plug fuse must be replaced, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362,

i.e., carrying the mark, rated as marked on the plug. Always replace the fuse cover; never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.

WARNING DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL, WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE LETTER ‘E’, BY

THE EARTH SYMBOL ( ) OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW.

The wires in this main lead are coloured in accordance with the following code:

Blue Neutral

Brown Live

As the colours of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the coloured markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows.

The wire that is coloured blue must be connected to the terminal that is marked with the letter ‘N’ or coloured black or blue.

The wire that is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal that is marked with the letter ‘L’ or coloured red or brown.

Federal Communications Commission (FCC)

Declaration of Conformity (For USA Only)

Responsible Party: Ta con y Co rp or at ion

1760 Gilsinn Lane, Fenton, Missouri 63026

declares that the product Product Name:

Model Number:

complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: (1) this device may not cause harmful interference, and (2) this device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation.

This equipment has been tested and found to comply with the limits for a Class B digital device, pursuant to Part 15 of the FCC Rules. These limits are designed to provide reasonable protection against harmful interference in a residential installation. This equipment generates, uses, and can radiate radio frequency energy and, if not installed and used in accordance with the instructions, may cause harmful interference to radio communications. However, there is no guarantee that interference will not occur in a particular installation. If this equipment does cause harmful interference to radio or television reception, which can be determined by turning the equipment off and on, the user is encouraged to try to correct the interference by one or more of the following measures:

Baby Lock Sewing Machine

BLN

• Reorient or relocate the receiving antenna

• Increase the separation between the equipment and receiver.

• Connect the equipment into an outlet on a circuit different from that to which the receiver is

connected.

• Consult the retailer or an experienced radio/TV technician for help.

• The included interface cable should be used in order to ensure compliance with the limits for a Class B

digital device.

• Changes or modifications not expressly approved by Tacony Corporation could void the user's

authority to operate the equipment.

CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR

MACHINE

Your machine is the most advanced computerized household embroidery and sewing machine. To fully enjoy all the features incorporated, we suggest that you study the manual.

PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE

For safe operation

1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the handwheel, thread take-up lever,

needle, or other moving parts.

2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when:

• Operation is completed

• A power failure occurs during use

• Maintaining the machine

• Leaving the machine unattended.

3. Do not store anything on the foot controller.

4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords.

For a longer service life

1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine

near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.

2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage

the case and machine, and should never be used.

3. Do not drop or hit the machine.

4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or

other parts to assure correct installation.

For repair or adjustment

In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Baby Lock retailer.

For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.babylock.com

The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL

Chapters 1 and 2 describe to the first-time user the initial operations for using this machine and the basic sewing operations.

To sew utility stitches

Continue with chapter 3 to learn how to select a stitch and sew using the various stitches.

Chapter 1

Chapter 2

Chapter 3

To sew characters and patterns

Continue with chapter 4 to learn basic operations, from selecting patterns to sewing, in addition to operations such as combining and editing patterns to rotate or resize them, and storing combined patterns.

Chapter 1

Chapter 2

Chapter 4

To embroider

Continue with chapter 5 to learn basic embroidering operations, from selecting patterns to sewing, as well as operations such as editing patterns to rotate or resize them and utilizing more useful functions or techniques. In chapter 6, you can learn how to edit more advanced embroidery patterns and combine patterns.

Chapter 1

Chapter 2

Chapter 5

Chapter 6

• Parts related to operations described in the procedures are highlighted in gold.

Perform the operations while comparing the screens in the procedures with those that appear on the machine.

• If, while using the machine, you have questions about an operation or you would like to know more

about a specific function, refer to the index (P.185) and the table of contents to find the section of the manual to refer to.

CONTENTS

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR

FUNCTIONS.................................................. 9

Machine ..................................................................... 9

Needle and Presser Foot Section............................... 10

Embroidery Unit ....................................................... 10

Operation Buttons .................................................... 11

Included Accessories ................................................ 11

Options .................................................................... 14

Chapter 1 Getting Ready 15

TURNING THE MACHINE ON/OFF.............16

LCD SCREEN................................................17

Using the Machine Setting Mode Key ...................... 20

Using the Machine Operation Mode Key ................. 22

Using the Pattern Explanation Key ........................... 23

LOWER/UPPER THREADING.......................24

Winding the Bobbin ................................................. 24

Setting the Bobbin .................................................... 27

Pulling Up the Bobbin Thread .................................. 27

Upper Threading ...................................................... 28

Using the Twin Needle............................................. 31

CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT................33

Removing the Presser Foot........................................ 33

Attaching the Presser Foot......................................... 33

CHANGING THE NEEDLE ...........................34

Chapter 2 Sewing Basics 37

SEWING.......................................................38

Sewing a Stitch ......................................................... 38

Sewing Reinforcement Stitches ................................. 40

Sewing Curves .......................................................... 40

Changing Sewing Direction ...................................... 40

Sewing Heavyweight Fabric...................................... 41

Sewing Lightweight Fabric........................................ 41

ADJUSTING STITCH SETTINGS................... 42

Adjusting the Stitch Width ........................................ 42

Adjusting the Stitch Length ....................................... 42

Adjusting the Thread Tension ................................... 43

USEFUL FUNCTIONS ..................................44

Automatic Reinforcement Stitching........................... 44

Automatic Thread Cutting......................................... 44

Locking the Screen ................................................... 45

Chapter 3 Utility Stitches 47

SELECTING A UTILITY STITCH.................... 48

Selecting a Stitch Pattern........................................... 49

Saving Stitch Settings ................................................ 49

Using the Sewing Type Selection Key ...................... 50

SEWING THE STITCHES ..............................51

Straight Stitches ........................................................ 51

Darts Seams.............................................................. 53

Gathering ................................................................. 54

Flat Fell Seams.......................................................... 54

Pintucks.................................................................... 55

Zigzag Stitches.......................................................... 56

Elastic Zigzag Stitches............................................... 57

Overcasting .............................................................. 58

Quilting .................................................................... 62

Blind Hem Stitches ................................................... 66

Appliqués ................................................................. 67

Shell Tuck Stitching .................................................. 68

Scalloping................................................................. 68

Top Stitching............................................................. 69

Smocking.................................................................. 69

Fagoting.................................................................... 70

Tape or Elastic Attaching........................................... 71

Heirloom Stitching.................................................... 72

Buttonhole Stitches ................................................... 74

Bar Tacks.................................................................. 79

Button Sewing........................................................... 81

Eyelets ...................................................................... 82

Multi-Directional Sewing (Straight Stitch and Zigzag

Stitch) ....................................................................... 83

Zipper Insertion ........................................................ 84

Chapter 4 Character/Decorative Stitches 87

SELECTING STITCH PATTERNS................... 88

Selecting Decorative Stitch Patterns/7 mm Decorative Stitch Patterns/Satin Stitch Patterns/ 7 mm Satin Stitch Patterns/Cross Stitch Patterns/

Utility Decorative Stitch Patterns............................... 89

Alphabet Patterns...................................................... 89

SEWING STITCH PATTERNS ....................... 91

Sewing Attractive Finishes......................................... 91

Basic Sewing............................................................. 91

Adjusting Patterns ..................................................... 92

EDITING STITCH PATTERNS.......................94

Changing the Pattern Size ......................................... 95

Changing the Pattern Length

(7 mm Satin Stitch Patterns Only).............................. 95

Creating a Vertical Mirror Image............................... 95

Creating a Horizontal Mirror Image .......................... 95

Selecting a Single/Repeating Pattern.......................... 96

Changing the Thread Density

(Satin Stitch Patterns Only)........................................ 96

COMBINING STITCH PATTERNS................97

Before Combining Patterns........................................ 97

Combining Patterns From Different Categories.......... 97

Combining Stitch Patterns of Different Sizes.............. 99

Combining Stitch Patterns of Different Orientations .. 99

Combining Stitch Patterns of Different Lengths........ 100

Creating Step Patterns (7 mm Satin Stitch Patterns

Only) ...................................................................... 101

USING THE MEMORY FUNCTION ........... 103

Stitch Data Precautions........................................... 103

Saving Stitch Patterns in the Machine’s Memory ..... 103

Saving Stitch Patterns to the Computer ................... 105

Retrieving Stitch Patterns from the Machine’s

Memory.................................................................. 106

Retrieving Stitch Patterns from the Computer.......... 107

Chapter 5 Embroidery 109

BEFORE EMBROIDERING.......................... 110

Attaching Embroidery Foot “U”............................... 111

Attaching the Embroidery Unit................................ 112

SELECTING EMBROIDERY PATTERNS....... 114

One-point Patterns/Floral Patterns/

Baby Lock Exclusive Embroidery Designs ............... 115

Alphabet Patterns.................................................... 116

Frame Patterns ........................................................ 117

Embroidery Cards ................................................... 118

Selecting Patterns from the Machine's Memory/

Computer................................................................ 118

VIEWING THE SEWING SCREEN............... 119

CONTENTS

PREPARING THE FABRIC .......................... 120

Attaching Stabilizer to Fabric................................... 120

Hooping Fabric in the Embroidery Frame ................ 121

Embroidering Small Fabrics and Fabric Edges.......... 123

ATTACHING THE EMBROIDERY FRAME.. 124

EDITING THE PATTERN............................ 125

Changing the Embroidery Frame Display................. 125

Changing the Pattern Position.................................. 125

Rotating the Pattern ................................................. 126

Changing the Pattern Size........................................ 126

Creating a Horizontal Mirror Image......................... 127

Changing the Stitching Density (Alphabet and

Frame Patterns Only)............................................... 128

Changing the Color of Single Characters.................. 128

CHECKING THE PATTERN........................ 129

Checking the Embroidering Position........................ 129

Previewing the Pattern............................................. 130

SEWING AN EMBROIDERING PATTERN.. 131

Sewing Attractive Finishes ....................................... 131

Sewing Embroidery Patterns .................................... 132

Embroidering Appliqué Patterns .............................. 133

If the Bobbin Runs Out of Thread............................ 135

If the Thread Breaks During Sewing......................... 135

Restarting from the Beginning.................................. 136

Adjusting the Thread Tension .................................. 137

Automatic Thread Cutting (End Color Trim)............. 138

Changing the Embroidering Speed........................... 138

Changing the Thread Color Display......................... 139

USING THE MEMORY FUNCTION........... 141

Embroidery Data Precautions .................................. 141

Saving Embroidery Patterns in the Machine’s

Memory................................................................... 142

Saving Embroidery Patterns to the Computer ........... 143

Retrieving Patterns from the Machine’s Memory...... 144

Retrieving Patterns from the Computer .................... 145

EMBROIDERY APPLICATIONS.................. 147

Using a Frame Pattern to Make an Appliqué (1)....... 147

Using a Frame Pattern to Make an Appliqué (2)....... 148

Cleaning the Bobbin Case ....................................... 165

ADJUSTING THE SCREEN..........................166

Screen Visibility Is Low............................................ 166

Touch Panel Is Malfunctioning ................................ 166

TROUBLESHOOTING................................168

ERROR MESSAGES.....................................171

SPECIFICATIONS........................................176

UPGRADING YOUR MACHINE’S

SOFTWARE ................................................177

STITCH SETTING CHART...........................179

INDEX ........................................................185

Chapter 6 Embroidery Edit 149

AVAILABLE EDITING FUNCTIONS ........... 150

SELECTING PATTERNS TO EDIT ............... 151

Selecting One-point Patterns/Floral Patterns/ Frame Patterns/Baby Lock Exclusive Embroidery

Designs ................................................................... 151

Alphabet Patterns .................................................... 152

EDITING PATTERNS.................................. 154

Moving the Pattern .................................................. 155

Rotating the Pattern ................................................. 155

Changing the Size of the Pattern.............................. 156

Deleting the Pattern................................................. 156

Changing the Configuration of Character Patterns.... 157

Changing the Character Spacing.............................. 157

Changing the Color of Each Character in a Pattern .. 158

After Editing............................................................. 158

COMBINING PATTERNS........................... 159

Editing Combined Patterns....................................... 159

Sewing Combined Patterns...................................... 162

USING THE MEMORY FUNCTION........... 162

Chapter 7 Appendix 163

CARE AND MAINTENANCE...................... 164

Cleaning the LCD.................................................... 164

Cleaning the Machine Casing.................................. 164

Cleaning the Race ................................................... 164

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

Machine

■ Front View

a Top cover

Open the top cover to thread the machine and wind the bobbin.

b Thread guide plate

Pass the thread around the thread guide plate when threading the upper thread.

c Thread take-up lever check window

Look through the window to check the position of the take-up lever.

d Needle threader lever

Use the needle threader lever when threading the needle automatically.

e Thread cutter

Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.

f Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment

Store presser feet and bobbins in the accessory compartment of the flat bed attachment. Remove the flat bed attachment when sewing cylindrical pieces such as sleeve cuffs.

g Operati on buttons (5 buttons) and sewing speed

controller

Use these buttons to perform various operations, such as starting sewing and raising or lowering the needle. Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed while using utility stitches.

h Knee lifter slot

Insert the knee lifter into the slot.

i Knee lifter

Use the knee lifter to raise and lower the presser foot.

j LCD (liquid crystal display)

Stitch settings can be viewed and edited, and operations for using the machine can be displayed, and error messages appear in the LCD.

k Spool pin

Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.

l Spool cap

Use the spool cap to hold the spool in place.

m Bobbin winder

Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.

n Supplemental spool pin

Use this spool pin to wind the bobbin thread while sewing or to sew with the twin needle.

o Thread guide

Pass the thread around this thread guide when winding the bobbin thread.

p Bobbin winding thread guide

Pass the thread around this thread guide when winding the bobbin thread.

■ Right-side/Rear View

a Handle

When transporting the machine, carry it by this handle.

b Handwheel

Turn the handwheel toward you to sew one stitch or to raise or lower the needle.

c Embroidery card slot

Insert the embroidery cards (sold separately) into the embroidery card slot.

d USB connector

Plug in a USB cable to connect a computer.

e Touch pen holder

Use the touch pen holder to hold the touch pen when it is not being used.

f Foot controller jack

Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cord into the foot controller jack.

g Foot controller

Press the foot controller to control the speed of the machine.

h Jack connector

Insert the power cord into the connector jack.

i Main power switch

Use the main power switch to turn the machine ON and OFF.

j Air vent

Do not cover the air vent while the sewing machine is being used.

k Feed dog position switch

Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs.

l Presser foot lever

Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot.

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

Needle and Presser Foot Section

a Buttonhole lever

Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks.

b Presser foot holder

The presser foot is attached to the presser foot holder.

c Presser foot holder screw

Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser foot holder in place.

d Presser foot

The presser foot consistently applies pressure to the fabric as it is sewn. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitch.

e Feed dogs

The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.

f Bobbin cover

Open the bobbin cover to insert the bobbin.

g Needle plate cover

Remove the needle plate cover to clean the bobbin case and race.

h Needle plate

The needle plate is marked with guides to help sew straight seams.

i Needle bar thread guide

Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread guide.

j Needle clamp screw

Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place.

Embroidery Unit

a Carriage

The carriage moves the embroidery frame automatically when embroidering.

b Release button (located under the embroidery unit)

Press the release button to remove the embroidery unit.

c Embroidery unit connector

Insert the embroidery unit connector into the connection port to attach the embroidery unit.

d Embroidery frame holder

Attach the embroidery frame to the embroidery frame holder to hold the frame in place.

e Frame-securing lever

Press down the frame-securing lever to secure the embroidery frame.

CAUTION

• After the embroidery frame is set in the frame holder, be sure the frame-securing lever is correctly lowered.

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

Operation Buttons

a “Start/Stop” button

When this button is pressed, the machine sews a few stitches at a low speed, then begins sewing at the speed set by the sewing speed controller. Press this button again to stop sewing. This button lights up in a different color depending on the machine’s operating condition.

Green: The machine is ready to sew or is sewing. Red: The machine cannot sew.

b “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button

This button is used to sew reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of stitching. When this button is pressed, the machine sews 3 to 5 stitches in the same spot, then stops automatically. For straight and zigzag stitch patterns that take reverse stitches, the machine sews reverse stitches (stitches sewn in the opposite direction) at low speed only while the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button is held down.

c “Needle Position” button

Use this button to change the sewing direction or for detailed sewing in small areas. Press this button to raise or lower the needle position. Press this button twice to sew a single stitch.

d “Thread Cutter” button

Press this button after sewing to automatically trim the excess thread.

e “Presser Foot Lifter” button

Press this button to lower the presser foot and apply pressure to the fabric. Press this button again to raise the presser foot.

f Sewing speed controller

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or right to adjust the sewing speed. Slide the controller to the left to sew at lower speeds. Slide the controller to the right to sew at higher speeds. Beginners should sew at a lower speed until they become familiar with the machine.

Included Accessories

The accessories are stored in the flat bed attachment. Open the flat bed attachment as shown below.

a Embroidery foot “U” storage space b Bobbin stand

(Place the bobbins on the pins to store them.)

c Storage space d Presser foot storage tra y

(Store presser feet marked A, G, I, J, M, N, and R.)

CAUTION

• Do not press the “Thread Cutter” button after the threads have already been cut. Otherwise, the needle may break, the threads may become tangled, or damage to the machine may occur.

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

12 34567

8 9* 10 11* 12* 13 14 15

16 17 18 19 20

75/11 2 needles 90/14 2 needles 90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle

(gold colored)

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28

29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36

37 38 39 40 41 42 43

44 45

No. Part Name Part Code

1 Embroidery foot “U” XD0313-051 2 Buttonhole foot “A” X57789-151 3 Overcasting foot “G” XC3098-051 4 Monogramming foot “N” X53840-351 5 Zipper foot “I” X59370-051 6 Zigzag foot “J” (on machine) XC3021-051 7 Blind stitch foot “R” X56409-051 8 Button fitting foot “M” 130489-001

9 Cording foot (3 cord guide)* XA6871-001 10 Walking foot X59816-104 11 Blind stitch foot (with guide)* XA0059-001 12 Narrow hemmer foot* 184600-001 13 Free-motion quilting foot XA4322-001

14 Seam ripper X54243-051 15 Bobbin × 10 X52800-150 16 Needle set X58358-051 17 Twin Needle X59296-151 18 Scissors XC1807-121 19 Chalk pen 184944-001 20 Cleaning brush X59476-051 21 Eyelet punch 135793-001 22 Screwdriver (large) X55467-051 23 Screwdriver (small) X55468-051 24 Spool cap (small) 130013-154 25 Spool cap (medium) × 2 X55260-153 26 Spool cap (large) 130012-054 27 Vertical spool pin XC8619-051 28 Spool felt X57045-051 29 Disc-shaped screwdriver XC1074-051 30 Spool net XA5523-050

Embroidery frame set (large)

18 cm (H) × 13 cm (W) (7 inches (H) × 5 inches (W)) Embroidery frame set (extra large) 26 cm (H) × 16 cm (W)

(10-1/4 inches (H) × 6-1/4 inches (W))

33 Foot controller XC8816-021 34 Embroidery needle plate cover XA9939-051 35 Touch pen (stylus) XA9940-051

36 Knee lifter XA6941-052 37 USB cable XD0745-051

Alternate bobbin case

(pink screw)

39 Embroidery bobbin thread BBT-W 40 Stabilizer material X81176-001 41 Operation Manual XD0547-051 42 Quick Reference Guide XD0549-051 43 Additional accessories guide XD0548-051 44 Hard case XC9640-052

Bobbin center pin (for pre-wound

bobbin)

EF75: Frame

EF79: Embroidery sheet

EF81: Frame

EF86: Embroidery sheet

XC8167-151

XC8450-051

* See Additional Accessories Guide for presser foot

instruction.

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

Memo

•Always use accessories recommended for this machine.

• The screw for the pres ser foo t ho lde r is available through your authorized retailer (part code: XA4813-051).

• See the additional accessories guide.

• This operation manual and the foot controller can be stored in the machine’s hard case.

Memo

(For U.S.A. only) Foot controller: Model T This foot controller can be used with this

machine model BLN.

NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

Options

123

456

789

10 11

No. Part Name Part Code

1 Side cutter foot XC3923-001 2 Embroidery bobbin thread (White) BBT-W

Embroidery bobbin thread (Black)

3 Seam guide BLG-SG

Embroidery frame set (small)

2 cm (H) × 6 cm (W) (1 inch (H) × 2-1/2 inches (W)) Embroidery frame set (medium)

10 cm (H) × 10 cm (W)

(4 inches (H) × 4 inches (W)) 6 Straight stitch needle plate XC8362-051 7

Cord guide bobbin cover

(with single hole) 8 Table and free motion grip BLG-ET

9 Spool stand BLG-TS

10 Embroidery unit carrying case XC8150-051 11

Embroidery card

BBT-B

EF73: Frame EF77: Embroidery sheet

EF74: Frame EF78: Embroidery sheet

XC8449-051

Memo

• Please be aware that some specifications may change without notice.

• Any Baby Lock embroidery card can be used with your machine. Please see your retailer for availability of embroidery card or visit www.babylock.com.

Note

• Embroidery cards purchased in foreign countries may not work with your machine.

• Visit your Baby Lock retailer for a complete listing of optional accessories available for your machine.

Chapter 1

Getting Ready

TURNING THE MACHINE ON/OFF....................................................16

LCD SCREEN........................................................................................17

■ Display Precautions.........................................................................................................17

■ Key Functions..................................................................................................................18

Using the Machine Setting Mode Key......................................................................20

Using the Machine Operation Mode Key ................................................................ 22

■ Contents of Each Category ..............................................................................................22

Using the Pattern Explanation Key ..........................................................................23

LOWER/UPPER THREADING..............................................................24

Winding the Bobbin ................................................................................................24

■ Using the Supplemental Spool Pin...................................................................................24

■ Winding the Bobbin Using the Spool Pin.........................................................................26

Setting the Bobbin...................................................................................................27

Pulling Up the Bobbin Thread .................................................................................27

Upper Threading .....................................................................................................28

Using the Twin Needle ............................................................................................ 31

CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT .......................................................33

Removing the Presser Foot ......................................................................................33

Attaching the Presser Foot ...................................................................................... 33

CHANGING THE NEEDLE...................................................................34

■ Checking the Needle .......................................................................................................34

■ About the Needle ............................................................................................................36

■ Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations ..............................................................................36

TURNING THE MACHINE ON/OFF

WARNING

• Use only regular household electricity as the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.

• Turn the main power to OFF and remove the plug in the following circumstances: When you are away from the machine After using the machine When the power fails during use When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection During electrical storms

CAUTION

• Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire or electric shock may result.

• Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.

• When unplugging the machine, always turn the main power to OFF first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock.

• Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord, or cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized retailer for repairs before continuing use.

• Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise, a fire may result.

• When leaving the machine unattended, either the main switch of the machine should be turned to OFF or the plug must be removed from the socket-outlet.

• When servicing the machine or when removing covers, either the machine or the electrical set must be unplugged.

• For U.S.A. only This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

Insert the power cord into the power cord

jack connector, then insert the plug into a wall outlet.

a Main power switch b Power cord

Turn the main power switch to “I” to turn on

the machine.

a OFF b ON

Turn the main power switch to “O” to turn

off the machine.

LCD SCREEN

■ Display Precautions

• Only touch the display with your finger or the touch pen included with the machine. Do not use a mechanical pencil, screwdriver or any other hard or sharp objects. In addition, do not press the display with extreme pressure, otherwise damage to the display may result.

• All or part of the display may sometimes become darker or lighter due to fluctuations in the surrounding temperature or other changes in the environment. This is not a sign of a malfunction. If the display is difficult to read, adjust its brightness (see page 21).

• The display may be dark immediately after the machine is turned on. This is a normal characteristic of the backlight and is not a sign of a malfunction. After approximately 10 minutes, the display should reach its normal level of brightness.

• If you are not directly facing the display, the colors may be distorted or the screen may be difficult to read. This is a normal characteristic of the display and is not a malfunction. Be sure to sit in front of the display while using it.

When the machine is turned on, the opening screen appears. The machine can be set so that the opening screen is not displayed (see page 21). Lightly press the display with your finger. Depending on the setting either, "1-01 Straight stitch (Left)" or "1-03 Straight stitch (Middle)" is automatically selected. (see page 20).

Getting Ready

Memo

It may take some time until the opening screen appears. This is not a sign of a malfunction.

a Shows whether the machine is set for a single needle

or twin needle, and the needle position when the machine is stopped. The desired needle position can be set (see page 20).

For a single needle

For a twin needle

b Presser foot code

Attach the indicated presser foot before sewing.

c Shows the number for the selected stitch (only for

utility stitches).

d Shows a preview of the selected stitch. e Shows the current page number and the total number

of pages available.

Single needle/down

position

Twin needle/down

position

Single needle/up

position

Twin needle/up

position

LCD SCREEN

■ Key Functions

With your finger or the touch pen, press a key at the top of the display ( ) to change the screen

that is displayed.

Operation panel

5 4

o r

6 7

qm p s

No. Key Name Function Page

Machine setting mode key

Machine operation mode key

Presser foot/Needle exchange key

Utility stitch key Press this key to select a straight stitch, zigzag stitch, buttonhole, blind hem

Character/Decorative Stitch key

Embroidery key Press thi s key to sew embroidery. 114

Embroidery edit key Press this key to combine embroidery patterns. By editing embroidery patterns,

Press this key to change the needle stop position, turn the buzzer on/off, adjust the pattern or screen, and change other machine settings.

Press this key to see descriptions for upper threading, winding the bobbin, changing the presser foot, and other operati ons for using the machine.

Press this key when changing the needle or presser foot. Pressing this key locks all keys and operation buttons so that parts can safely be changed. Press this key again to unlock the keys and buttons. When operations are displayed, the screen for the presser foot/needle replacement mode is not displayed.

stitch, or other stitch (utility stitch) commonly used in garment sewing.

Press this key to select character or decorative stitch patterns. 88

you can create original emblems and name tags.

151

LCD SCREEN

Screen

No. Key Name Function Page

Screen lock key Press this k ey to lock the screen . When the scre en is loc ke d, the v arious settin gs,

such as the stitch width and stitc h length, are locked and cannot be changed. Press this key again to unlock the settings.

Sewing type selection key

Pattern explanation key Press this key to see how the selecte d stitch pattern can be used . 23

Stitch selection display Press the key for the stitch pattern that you want to sew. Press one of the

Automatic reinforcement stitch key

Automatic thread cutting key

Mirror image key Press this key to create a mirror image of the selected stitch pattern.

Needle mode selection key (single/twin)

Reset key Press this key to return the select ed st itch pa ttern’s saved settings to the original

Press this key when you need help selecting the appropriate stitch pattern for the sewing application and when you need instructions on how to sew the selected stitch pattern. This key is very helpful for beginners.

keys to change the pattern selection sc reen.

Press this key to select the automatic reinforcement stitching (reverse stitching) setting. If you select this setting before sewing, the machine will automatically sew reinforcement stitches at the beginning and en d of stitching (depending on the selected stitch pattern, reverse stitches may be sewn). Press this key again to cancel the setting.

Press this key to select the automatic thread cutting setting. If you select this setting before sewing, the machine will automatically sew reinforcement stitches (or reverse stitches, depending on the selected stitch) and trim the threads when the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button is pressed. Press this key again to cancel the setting.

• If this key appears as , it cannot be used.

Before sewing with the twin needle, press this key to select the setting for twin needle sewing. Each time this key is pressed, the setting switches between that for single needle sewing and twin needle sewing.

• If this key appears as , it cannot be used.

settings.

Getting Ready

Manual memory key Change the stitch patt ern settings (zigzag widt h and stitch leng th, thread tens ion,

Stitch width and stitch length keys

Thread tension keys Shows the thread tension setting of the currently selected stitch pattern. The

automatic thread cutting or automatic reinforcement stitching, etc.), then save them by pressing this key.

Shows the stitch width (zigzag width) and the stitch length settings of the currently selected stitch pattern. Press or to adjust the stitch width

and stitch length settings.

• If appears, the setting cannot be adjusted.

thread tension is usually set automatically. Press or to adjust the thread tension setting.

LCD SCREEN

Using the Machine Setting Mode Key

Press to change the needle stop position, turn the buzzer on/off, adjust the pattern or screen, and change other basic machine settings.

a Select whether the needle stops in the raised or

lowered position when the machine is stopped.

b Select whether to use the sewing speed controller or

to adjust the zigzag width (see page 64).

c Make adjustments to the character and decorative

stitch patterns (see page 92).

d Adjust the presser foot height (select the height of the

presser foot when the presser foot is raised) (see page 41).

e Adjust the presser foot pressure between 1 (weak)

and 4 (strong).

* The higher the number, the higher the pressure will be. Set

the pressure to 3 for normal sewing.

f Select whether “1-01 Straight stitch (Left)” or “1-03

Straight stitch (Middle)” is the utility stitch that is automatically selected when the machine is turned on.

* Press to display the next page.

b c

a Select from among 5 embroidery frame displays (see

page 125).

b Select whether the thread color name, thread color

number or sewing time appears for the thread color display in the embroidery screen (see page 139).

c Select the thread brand available when selecting a

thread color number in the thread color display of the Embroidery screen. (see page 139).

a Adjust the maximum embroidering speed. b Adjust the thread tension for embroidering. c Adjust the height of embroidery foot “U” (see page

120).

d Select the units (mm/inch) for displaying distances

and the sizes of embroidery patterns.

e Select the initial screen (Embroidery/Embroidery Edit)

when the embroidery unit is installed.

* Press to display the next page.

a Adjust the density of the display.

* Press to make the screen lighter.

* Press to make the screen darker.

LCD SCREEN

* Press to display the next page.

b c

Adjust the density so that the contrast between and

can be clearly seen.

b Turn on/off the buzzer. c Turn on/off the needle area and work area lights. d Select whether or not the opening screen appears

when the machine is turned on.

e Select one of the 13 display languages:

[English], [German], [French], [Ital ia n], [Du tch], [Spanish], [Japanese], [Danish], [Norwegian], [Finnish], [Swedish], [Portuguese], [Ru ssia n ]

a Display the service count of embroidery stitches. The

service count is a reminder to take your machin e in for regular servicing (Contact your authorized retailer for details.)

b Shows the version of the software installed on this

machine.

c Shows the product identification number for this

machine.

Memo

The latest version of software is installed in your machine. Check with your local authorized Baby Lock retailer or at www.babylock.com for notification of available updates (see page 177).

Getting Ready

LCD SCREEN

Using the Machine Operation Mode Key

Basic machine operations and other information based on the contents of this Operation Manual are stored in this machine.

Press to open the screen shown below. Six categories are displayed at the top of the screen. Press a key to see more information about that category.

■ Contents of Each Category

Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions Sewing Basics Troubleshooting

Presser foot lever

Sewing speed controller

Handwheel

Feed dog position switch

Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment

Knee lifter Foot controller

Main Buttons Basic Embroidering Operations Maintenance

Upper threading

Bobbin winding

Changing the needle

Changing the presser foot

Setting the bobbin

“Thread Cutter” butto n

“Presser Foot Lifter” button

“Start/Stop” button

“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button

“Needle Pos itio n ” button

Attaching iron-on stabilizer to the

fabric Inserting the fabric

Attaching the embroidery frame Attaching the embroidery unit

Attaching embroidery foot “U” Correct stabilizer to use

Cleaning the race and bobbin case

Example: Displaying information about upper

threading

Press .

→ A list of basic operations appears in the lower half of

the screen.

LCD SCREEN

Using the Pattern Explanation Key

To learn more about the uses for a stitch pattern, select the stitch, and then press to see a description of

the selected stitch.

Getting Ready

Press (upper threading).

→ The instructions for threading the machine appear.

Press to view the next page.

Example: Displaying information on the use for .

Select , and then press .

→ Uses for appear.

When you are finished with the instructions,

press .

When you are finished with the instructions,

press .

LOWER/UPPER THREADING

Winding the Bobbin

Set the supplemental spool pin in the “up”

position.

This section describes how to wind thread onto a bobbin. With this machine, you can use the supplemental spool pin to wind the bobbin while sewing using the main spool pin.

CAUTION

• The included bobbin was designed specifically for

this sewing machine. If bobbins from other models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: X52800-150).

11.5 mm (approx. 7/16 inch)

This model Other models

■ Using the Supplemental Spool Pin

While sewing embroidery, the bobbin can conveniently be wound.

56 3, 4

a Supplemental spool pin

Turn on the machine, and then open the top

cover.

Align the groove in the bobbin with the spring

on the bobbin winder shaft, and then set the bobbin on the shaft.

Actual size

7, 8

9,10

a Supplemental spool pin

Place the spool of thread on the supplemental

spool pin so that the thread unwinds from the front. Then, slide the spool cap as far as possible onto the supplemental spool pin to secure the thread spool.

a Supplemental spool pin b Spool cap

c Thread spool

CAUTION

• If the thread spool and/or spool cap are set incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break.

• Use the spool cap (large, medium, or small) that is closest in size to the thread spool. If a spool cap smaller than the thread spool is used, the thread may become caught in the slit on the end of the spool.

Note

When using cross-wound thread on a thin spool, use the small spool cap, and leave a small gap between the cap and the thread spool.

a Groove in bobbin b Spring on bobbin winder shaft

a Gap b Cross-wound thread c Spool cap (small)

LOWER/UPPER THREADING

While holding the thread from the spool in

your right hand, hold the end of the thread with your left hand, and then pass the thread through the thread guide.

a Thread guide

Pass the thread under the pin on the bobbin

winding thread guide, and then pass it around the pretension disc.

* Make sure that the thread passes under the pretension disc.

Slide the bobbin holder to the left until it

snaps into place.

* When the bobbin holder is set to the left, it works as a

switch to make the bobbin wind automatically.

a Bobbin holder (switch)

→ The bobbin stops spinning automatically when it is

full, and the bobbin holder returns to its original position.

Cut the thread, and then remove the bobbin.

Getting Ready

a Pin b Pretension disc

Wind the thread clockwise around the bobbin

four or five times.

Pass the end of the thread through the guide

slit in the bobbin winder seat, and then pull the thread to the right to cut it with the cutter.

Note

When removing the bobbin, pull up only on the bobbin. Do not pull on the bobbin winder seat, otherwise it may become loose, resulting in damage to the machine.

CAUTION

• Setting the bobbin improperly may cause the thread tension to loosen, breaking the needle and possibly resulting in injury.

a Guide slit b Bobbin winder seat

CAUTION

• Be sure to follow the process described. If the thread is not cut with the cutter, and the bobbin is wound, when the thread runs low, it may tangle around the bobbin.

LOWER/UPPER THREADING

■ Winding the Bobbin Using the Spool Pin

The main spool pin cannot be used to wind the bobbin while sewing. For details, see “Using the Supplemental Spool Pin” on page 24.

Turn on the machine.

Slide the spool cap as far as possible onto the

spool pin, and then return the spool pin to its original position.

While holding the thread from the spool with

both hands, pull the thread through the lower notch in the thread guide plate, then through the upper notch.

a Lower notch in the thread guide plate b Upper notch in the thread guide plate

Pass the thread through the thread guide.

Open the top cover.

Align the groove in the bobbin with the spring

on the bobbin winder shaft, and then slide the bobbin onto the shaft.

a Groove in bobbin b Spring on bobbin winder shaft

Pivot the spool pin so that it angles upward,

and then place the spool of thread on the spool pin.

* Make sure that the thread unwinds from the front.

a Thread guide

Pass the thread under the pin on the bobbin

winding thread guide, and then pass it around the pretension disc.

* Make sure that the thread passes under the pretension disc.

a Pin b Pretension disc

Follow steps g through j on page 25.

a Spool cap b Thread spool c Spool pin

Setting the Bobbin

This section describes how to set a bobbin wound with thread into the machine. You can begin sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the bobbin thread, for example, when sewing gathers, follow the procedure described in the next section.

CAUTION

• Use a bobbin thread that has been correctly wound. Otherwise, the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.

LOWER/UPPER THREADING

Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right

hand, and then, while slightly pulling the thread with your left hand, guide it through the groove.

After guiding the thread completely through

the groove, pull it toward you to cut it with the cutter.

Getting Ready

Press the “Presser Foot Lifter” button to raise

the presser foot.

Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right, and

then remove the bobbin cover.

a Bobbin cover b Latch

Hold the bobbin with your right hand and hold

the end of the thread with your left hand.

Insert the wound bobbin into the bobbin case

so that the thread unwinds in the direction of

the arrow.

a Cutter

Attach the bobbin cover by inserting the tab

in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, then lightly press down on the right side of the cover until it snaps into place.

a Tab

Pulling Up the Bobbin Thread

There may be some sewing applications where you may want to pull up the bobbin thread, for example, when making gathers or with free-motion quilting. Follow the procedure described below to pull up the bobbin thread.

Memo

Thread the upper thread before pulling up the bobbin thread. For details, see “Upper Threading” o n page 28.

CAUTION

• Be sure to hold down the bobbin with your finger and unwind the bobbin thread correctly. Otherwise, the thread may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.

Follow steps a through d from the previous

section to insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.

LOWER/UPPER THREADING

Guide the bobbin thread through the groove,

following the arrow in the illustration.

Upper Threading

Note

• Do not cut the thread with the cut ter.

• Do not attach the bobbin cover.

While lightly holding the upper thread, press

the “Needle Position” button twice to lower, then raise the needle.

Gently pull the upper thread to pull up the

bobbin thread.

This section describes how to thread the machine and the needle. The machine is marked with numbers that indicate the threading order.

CAUTION

• Be sure to thread the machine properly. Improper threading can cause the thread to tangle and break the needle, leading to injury.

• When using accessories not included with this machine, attach the accessory to the machine after threading the machine.

4, 5

12,13

14,15

Turn on the machine.

2,16

→ A loop of the bobbin thread comes out from the hole

in the needle plate.

Pull out about 100 mm of the bobbin thread,

and then pass it under the presser foot toward the rear of the machine, making it even with the upper thread.

a b

Press the “Presser Foot Lifter” button to raise

the presser foot.

→ The upper thread shutter opens so the machine can

be threaded.

a Upper thread shutter

Memo

This machine is equipped with an upper thread shutter, allowing you to check that the upper thread ing is performed correctly.

a Upper thread b Bobbin thread

Attach the bobbin cover.

LOWER/UPPER THREADING

Press the “Needle Position” button to raise

the needle.

Note

If you try to thread the needle wit h the nee dle t hreader lever without raising it, damage to the machine may result.

Pivot the spool pin so that it angles upward,

and then place the spool of thread on the spool pin.

* Make sure that the thread unwinds from the front.

While holding the thread from the spool in

your right hand, hold the end of the thread with your left hand, and then guide the thread through the groove, following the arrows in the illustration.

Guide the thread down, up, then down

through the groove, as shown in the illustration.

Getting Ready

a Spool cap b Thread spool c Spool pin

Slide the spool cap as far as possible onto the

spool pin, and then return the spool pin to its original position.

CAUTION

• If the thread spool and/or spool cap are set incorrectly, the thread may tangle on the spool pin and cause the needle to break.

While holding the thread from the spool with

both hands, pull the thread through the lower notch in the thread guide plate, then through the upper notch.

a Upper thread shutter

Memo

Look through the take-up lever check window to check the position of the take-up lever. Before threading the machine, make sure that the take-up lever is in the raised position.

a Upper thread shutter b Thread take-up lever check window

Pass the thread through the needle bar thread

guide (marked “6”).

* Hold the thread with both hands and guide it as shown in

the illustration.

a Lower notch in the thread guide plate b Upper notch in the thread guide plate

a Needle bar thread guide

LOWER/UPPER THREADING

Pass the thread through the thread guide discs

(marked “7”).

* Make sure that the thread passes through the groove in the

thread guide.

* Make sure that the thread securely enters the thread guide

discs, otherwise the needle may not be threaded.

a Groove in thread guide

Pull the thread up through the thread cutter

to cut the thread, as shown in the illustration.

a Thread cutter

Release the needle threader lever.

→ The thread passes through the eye of the needle.

Carefully pull the end of thread that was

passed through the eye of the needle.

Note

Do not pull the thread strongly. Otherwise, the needle may bend or break.

* If a loop was formed in the thread passed through the eye

of the needle, carefully pull on the loop of thread through to the back of the needle.

Pull out about 100 mm (approx. 3-4 inches) of

the thread, and then pass it under the presser foot toward the rear of the machine.

Note

When using thread that quickly winds off the spool, such as metallic thread, it may be difficult to thread the needle if the thread is cut.

Therefore, instead of using the thread cutter, pull out about 80 mm (approx. 3 inches) of thread after passing it through the thread gu i de di s cs (m a rk ed “7”).

a 80 mm or more

Lower the needle threader lever slowly until it

clicks.

* The hook is rotated and passes through the eye of the

needle.

Note

• If the needle threader lever is lowered quickly, the needle may not be threaded.

• Make sure that no objects, such as the fabric, are touching the hook.

a 100 mm

Press the “Presser Foot Lifter” button to lower

the presser foot before starting to sew.

Memo

This completes the upper threading procedure.

Note

• The needle threade r can be used with home sewing machine needles 75/11 through 100/16. For details on appropriate needle and thread combinations, see “Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations” on page 36.

• If automatic needle threading could not be completed correctly, repeat the procedure, starting with the needle bar thread guide (marked “6”).

• Some needles cannot be t hreaded with the needle threader. In this case, instead of using the needle threader after passing the thread thro ugh the needle bar thread guide (marked “6”), manually pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front.

a Hook b Needle thread lever

Using the Twin Needle

Using the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines of the same stitch. Although the same bobbin thread is used, interesting patterns can be sewn by threading each needle with a different color of thread. Both upper threads should have the same thickness and quality. The twin needle can only be used with patterns where

appears when they are selected. Check the

“STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual for patterns that can be used with the twin needle.

CAUTION

• Use only twin needles made for this machine (part code X59296-151). Other needles could break, resulting in damage.

• Be sure to set the twin needle mode when using the twin needle. Using the twin needle while the machine is in single needle mode could cause the needle to break, resulting in damage.

• Do not sew with bent needles. The needle could break and cause injury.

• When using the twin needle, be sure to use presser foot “J”. In case bunched stitches may occur, use the presser foot “N”.

Press , and then install the twin

needle (see “CHANGING THE NEEDLE” on page 34).

LOWER/UPPER THREADING

Pass the thread through the needle bar thread

guide, and then thread the needle on the left side.

a Needle bar thread guide

Set the supplemental spool pin in the “up”

position.

a Supplemental spool pin

Place the additional spool of thread on the

supplemental spool pin so that the thread unwinds from the top. Then, slide the spool cap as far as possible onto the supplemental spool pin to secure the thread spool.

Getting Ready

Thread the machine for the first needle

according to the procedure for threading a single needle (see “Upper Threading” on page

28).

a Spool cap b Supplemental spool pin c Thread spool

While holding the thread from the spool in

your right hand, hold the end of the thread with your left hand, and then pass the thread through the thread guide.

* Do not pass the thread through the bobbin winding thread

guide.

a Bobbin winding thread guide b Thread guide

LOWER/UPPER THREADING

While holding the thread from the spool with

both hands, pull the thread through the lower notch in the thread guide plate, then through the upper notch. Hold the end of the thread with your left hand, and then guide the thread through the groove, following the arrows in the illustration.

Press to select the setting for twin

needle sewing.

* The stitch width becomes narrower than with single needle

sewing.

a Single needle/twin needle setting

→ appears.

a Shutter

Without passing the thread through the

needle bar thread guide, thread the needle on the right side.

a Needle bar thread guide

Note

The needle threader cannot be used. Manually pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front. If the needle threader is used, damage to the machine may result.

Press , or press in the

screen.

Select a stitch pattern.

CAUTION

• Be sure to set the twin needle mode when using the twin needle. Using the twin needle while the machine is in single needle mode could cause the needle to break, resulting in damage.

Press the “Start/Stop” button after lowering

the presser foot lever.

Memo

To change the sewing direction with the twin needle, raise the needle from the fabric, raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the fabric.

Note

If appears as after a stitch is selected, the twin needle cannot be used with the selected

stitch.

CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT

CAUTION

• Always press in the operation panel before changing the presser foot. If is not pressed and the

“Start/Stop” button or another button is pressed, the machine will start and may cause injury.

• Always use the correct presser foot for the selected stitch pattern. If the wrong presser foot is used, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, and may cause injury.

• Only use presser feet made for this machine. Using other presser feet may lead to accident or injury.

Raise the presser foot lever.

Removing the Presser Foot

Press the “Needle Position” button to raise

the needle.

Press .

Press the black button on the presser foot

holder to remove the presser foot.

Getting Ready

→ The screen changes, and all keys and operation

buttons are locked.

a Black button b Presser foot holder

Attaching the Presser Foot

Place the presser foot under the holder,

aligning the pin on the foot with the notch in the holder, and then lower the presser foot lever so that the presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the holder.

a Notch b Pin

Press , or press in the

screen.

→ All keys and operation buttons are unlocked, and

the previous screen is displayed.

Raise the presser foot lever.

CHANGING THE NEEDLE

CAUTION

• Always press in the operation panel before changing the needle. If is not pressed and the “Start/

Stop” button or another operation button is pressed accidentally, the machine will start and injury may result.

• Use only sewing machine needles made for home use. Other needles may bend or break and may cause injury.

• Never sew with a bent needle. A bent needle will easily break and may cause injury.

■ Checking the Needle

Place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface (such as the needle plate or a piece of glass) and check that the gap between the needle and the flat surface is even.

Note

Never use bent or blunt needles.

a Even gap b Flat surface (bobbin cover, glass, etc.)

Press the “Needle Position” button to raise

the needle.

Press .

→ The screen changes, and all keys and operation

buttons are locked.

Use the included screwdriver to turn the

needle clamp screw toward the front of the machine to loosen it, and then remove the needle.

Note

Do not apply extreme force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise damage to the machine may result.

CHANGING THE NEEDLE

Getting Ready

With the flat side of the needle facing the

back, insert the new needle until it touches the needle stopper. Use the screwdriver to securely tighten the needle clamp screw.

a Needle stopper b Hole for setting the needle c Flat side of needle

CAUTION

• Be sure to push in the needle until it touches the stopper, and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with a screwdriver. If the needle is not completely inserted or the needle clamp screw is loose, the needle may break or the machine may be damaged.

Press , or press in the

screen.

→ All keys and operation buttons are unlocked, and

the previous screen is displayed.

CHANGING THE NEEDLE

■ About the Needle

The sewing machine needle is probably the most important part of the sewing machine. Choosing the proper needle for your sewing project will result in a beautiful finish and fewer problems. Below are some things to keep in mind about needles.

• The smaller the needle number, the finer the needle. As the numbers increase, the needles get thicker.

• Use fine needles with lightweight fabrics, and thicker needles with heavyweight fabrics.

• To avoid skipped stitches, use ball point needle (gold colored) 90/14 with stretch fabrics.

• To avoid skipped stitches, use ball point needle (gold colored) 90/14 when sewing character or decorative

stitches.

• Use needle 75/11 for embroidery. Ball point needles (gold colored) 90/14 are not recommended for

embroidery, as they may bend or break, causing injury.

• It is recommended that a 90/14 needle should be used when embroidering on heavyweight fabrics or

stabilizing products (for example, denim, puffy foam, etc.). A 75/11 needle may bend or break, which could result in injury.

• A home sewing machine needle 75/11 is inserted in the sewing machine.

■ Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations

The following table provides information concerning the appropriate thread and needle for various fabrics. Please refer to this table when selecting a thread and needle for the fabric you wish to use.

Fabric Thread Size of needle

Type Size

Medium weight fabric Broadcloth Cotton 60 - 80 75/11 - 90/14

Taffeta Synthetic mercerized 60 - 80 Flannel, Gabardine Silk or silk finished 50

Lightweight fabric Lawn, Batiste Cotton 60 - 80 65/9 - 75/11

Georgette Synthetic mercerized 60 - 80 Challis, Satin Silk 50

Heavyweight fabric Denim Cotton 30 - 50 90/14 - 100/16

Corduroy Synthetic mercerized 50 Tweed Silk 50

Stretch fabric Jersey Thread for knits 50 - 60 Ball point needle

Tricot

For top stitching Synthetic mercerized 30 90/14 - 100/16

Silk 30

(gold colored)

75/11 - 90/14

Memo

For transparent nylon thread, always use needle 90/14 - 100/16. The same thread is usually used for the bobbin thread and upper threading.

CAUTION

• Be sure to follow the needle, thread, and fabric combinations listed in the table. Using an improper combination, especially a heavyweight fabric (i.e., denim) with a small needle (i.e., 65/9 - 75/11), may cause the needle to bend or break, and lead to injury. Also, the seam may be uneven, the fabric may pucker, or the machine may skip stitches.

Chapter 2

Sewing Basics

SEWING ..............................................................................................38

Sewing a Stitch........................................................................................................ 38

■ Using the Foot Controller................................................................................................39

■ Using the Knee Lifter.......................................................................................................40

Sewing Reinforcement Stitches ...............................................................................40

Sewing Curves.........................................................................................................40

Changing Sewing Direction ..................................................................................... 40

■ Sewing a Seam Allowance of 0.5 cm or Less ...................................................................40

Sewing Heavyweight Fabric .................................................................................... 41

■ If the Fabric Does Not Fit Under the Presser Foot...........................................................41

■ If the Fabric Does Not Feed ............................................................................................41

Sewing Lightweight Fabric ...................................................................................... 41

ADJUSTING STITCH SETTINGS ..........................................................42

Adjusting the Stitch Width ...................................................................................... 42

Adjusting the Stitch Length ..................................................................................... 42

Adjusting the Thread Tension .................................................................................. 43

■ Correct Thread Tension...................................................................................................43

■ Upper Thread Is Too Tight ..............................................................................................43

■ Upper Thread Is Too Loose .............................................................................................43

USEFUL FUNCTIONS..........................................................................44

Automatic Reinforcement Stitching ........................................................................ 44

Automatic Thread Cutting .......................................................................................44

Locking the Screen .................................................................................................. 45

SEWING

CAUTION

• To avoid injury, pay special attention to the needle while the machine is in operation. Keep your hands away from moving parts while the machine is in operation.

• Do not stretch or pull the fabric during sewing. Doing so may lead to injury.

• Do not use bent or broken needles. Doing so may lead to injury.

• Take care that the needle does not strike basting pins or other objects during sewing. Otherwise, the needle may break and cause injury.

• If stitches become bunched, lengthen the stitch length setting before continuing sewing. Otherwise, the needle may break and cause injury.

Place the fabric under the presser foot, hold

Sewing a Stitch

Turn on the machine, and then press the

“Needle Position” button to raise the needle.

Select a stitch pattern.

the fabric and thread ends with your left hand, and then turn the handwheel to lower the needle into the fabric at the starting point of the stitching.

* The black button on the left side of presser foot “J” should

be pressed only if the fabric does not feed or when sewing thick seams. Normally, you can sew without pressing the black button.

→ The symbol for the correct presser foot appears in

the upper-left corner of the LCD.

Install the presser foot (see “CHANGING THE

PRESSER FOOT” on page 33).

CAUTION

• Always use the correct presser foot. If the wrong presser foot is used, the needle may strike the presser foot and bend or break, possibly resulting in injury.

Lower the presser foot lever.

Memo

You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread.

Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the

sewing speed.

Memo

The sewing speed can also be adjusted du ring sewi ng.

a Slow b Fast

Lightly place your hands on the fabric to

guide it, and then press the “Start/Stop” button to start sewing.

SEWING

To stop sewing, press the “Start/Stop” button

again.

Press the “Thread Cutter” button to trim the

threads.

→ The needle automatically stops in the raised

position.

■ Using the Foot Controller

You can also use the foot controller to start and stop sewing.

CAUTION

• Do not allow fabric pieces and dust to collect in the foot controller. Doing so could cause a fire or an electric shock.

Memo

• When the foot controller is being used, the “Start/

Stop” button has no effect on sewing.

• The foot controll er cannot be used when

embroidering.

Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on

the machine.

Sewing Basics

CAUTION

• Do not press the “Thread Cutter” button after the threads have been cut. Doing so could tangle the thread or break the needle and damage the machine.

• Do not press the “Thread Cutter” button when there is no fabric set in the machine or during machine operation. The thread may tangle, possibly resulting in damage.

Note

When cutting thread thicker than #30, nylon thread or other decorative threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine.

When the needle has stopped moving, raise

the presser foot and remove the fabric.

Note

This machine is equipped with a bobbin t hread sens or that warns you when the bobbin thread is almost empty. When the bobbin thread is nearly empty, the machine stops automatically and a message appears in the screen. When this message appears, change the bobbin with one full of thread. However, if the “Start/Stop” button is pressed, a few stitches can be sewn.

a Foot controller b Foot controller jack

Slowly press the foot controller to start

sewing.

Memo

The speed set using the sewing speed cont roller is the foot controller’s maximum sewing speed.

Release the foot controller to stop the

machine.

Memo

(For U.S.A. only) Foot controller: Model T This foot controller can be used with model BLN.

SEWING

■ Using the Knee Lifter

Using the knee lifter, you can raise and lower the presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free to handle the fabric.

Align the tabs on the knee lifter with the

notches in the jack, and then insert the knee lifter as far as possible.

Note

If the knee lifter is not pushed into the mounting s lot as far as possible, it may come out during use.

Use your knee to move the knee lifter to the

right in order to raise the presser foot. Release the knee lifter to lower the presser foot.

Sewing Reinforcement Stitches

Generally stitching must be secured at the beginning and end with reverse/reinforcement stitches. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew reverse/ reinforcement stitches.

Depending on the selected stitch pattern, reverse or reinforcement stitches are sewn while the “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button is kept pressed. With reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches are sewn at the same place. With reverse stitches, the stitching is sewn at a low speed in the opposite direction. In addition, this machine can be set to sew reinforcement stitches (or reverse stitches) automatically. For details, see “Automatic Reinforcement Stitching” on page 44.

Sewing Curves

Note

When the presser foot is in raised position, move the knee lifter further to the right for the presser foot to lower.

CAUTION

• Be sure to keep your knee away from the knee lifter during sewing. If the knee lifter is pushed during machine operation, the needle may break or the thread tension may loosen.

Sew slowly while keeping the seam parallel with the fabric edge as you guide the fabric around the curve.

Changing Sewing Direction

Stop the machine with the needle in the fabric at the point where you want to change the sewing direction, and then raise the presser foot lever. Using the needle as a pivot, turn the fabric, lower the presser foot lever, and then continue sewing.

■

Sewing a Seam Allowance of 0.5 cm or Less

Baste the corner before sewing, and then, after changing the sewing direction at the corner, pull the basting thread toward the back while sewing.

a 0.5 cm

Sewing Heavyweight Fabric

■ If the Fabric Does Not Fit Under the Presser Foot

The presser foot lever can be raised to two different positions. If the fabric is too thick to fit under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever to its highest position so that the fabric can be placed under the presser foot.

Memo

If the fabric cannot be smoothly placed under the presser foot, select the presser foot height higher on the setting screen (see page 20).

The default is 7.5mm from the needle plate when the presser foot is raised.

■ If the Fabric Does Not Feed

If the fabric does not feed when starting to sew or when sewing thick seams, press the black button on the left side of presser foot “J”.

SEWING

While keeping the black button on the left

side of presser foot “J” pressed in, lower the presser foot lever.

* The presser foot remains level, enabling the fabric to be

fed. Once the trouble spot has been sewn, the presser foot will return to its normal operation.

CAUTION

• Do not forcefully push fabrics more than 6 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) thick through the sewing machine. This may cause the needle to break and cause injury.

Sewing Lightweight Fabric

Iron the fabric with starch or place thin paper or tear away embroidery stabilizer under thin fabrics to make sewing easier. Gently tear off the paper or the stabilizer after sewing.

Sewing Basics

Raise the presser foot lever.

a Thin paper

ADJUSTING STITCH SETTINGS

When a stitch is selected, the most appropriate stitch width, stitch length, and upper thread tension are automatically set. However, if needed, you can change any of the settings as described in this section.

Note

• Settings for some stitches cannot be changed (See the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual).

• If a stitch setting is changed, but not saved, the stitch setting returns to its def ault when the machine is turned off or a different stitch is selected.

Adjusting the Stitch Width

The stitch width (zigzag width) can be adjusted to make the stitch wider or narrower.

Memo

If the foot controller is connected, the sewing speed controller can be used to adjust the zigzag width (see page 64).

Each press of makes the zigzag stitch narrower.

Adjusting the Stitch Length

The stitch length can be adjusted to make the stitch coarser or finer.

Each press of makes the stitch finer (shorter).

Each press of makes the stitch coarser (longer).

Each press of makes the zigzag stitch wider.

Press to return the setting to its default.

CAUTION

• If the stitches get bunched together, lengthen the stitch length and continue sewing. Do not continue sewing without lengthening the stitch length. Otherwise, the needle may break and cause injury.

Adjusting the Thread Tension

The default thread tension, which is automatically set, can normally be used regardless of the type of thread or fabric being sewn. However, with some fabric and thread combinations, the thread tension may need to be adjusted.

■ Correct Thread Tension

The upper thread and the bobbin thread should cross near the center of the fabric. If the thread tension is incorrectly set, the seam may have a poor finish or the fabric may pucker.

ADJUSTING STITCH SETTINGS

Sewing Basics

a Wrong side of fabric b Surface of fabric c Upper thread d Bobbin thread

■ Upper Thread Is Too Tight

If the bobbin thread can be seen on the surface of the fabric, press . Each press of the key reduces the setting and makes the thread tension more loose.

a Surface of fabric b Upper thread c Bobbin thread d Locks appear on the surface of the fabric.

■ Upper Thread Is Too Loose

If the upper thread can be seen on the wrong side of the fabric, press . Each press of the key increases

the setting and makes the thread tension tighter.

a Wrong side of fabric b Locks appear on the wrong side of the fabric. c Upper thread d Bobbin thread

Press to return the setting to its default.

USEFUL FUNCTIONS

Automatic Reinforcement Stitching

After selecting a stitch pattern, turn on the automatic reinforcement stitching setting before sewing, and the machine will automatically sew reinforcement stitches (or reverse stitches, depending on the stitch pattern) at the beginning and end of sewing.

Select a stitch pattern.

Press to select the automatic

reinforcement/reverse stitching setting.

Memo

The automatic reinforcement/reverse stitching setting is already selected with some stitches, such as buttonholes and bar tacks.

Memo

If you press the “Start/Stop” button to pause sewing, then press it again to continue, reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) will not be sewn.

If the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button

is pressed, the machine automatically sews reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches), then stops.

a Reverse st it ches (or reinforcement stitches)

Memo

To cancel the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching setting, press again so that it appears

→ The key appears as .

Place the fabric under the presser foot with the

needle at the starting point of the stitching, and then press the “Start/Stop” button. The machine will automatically sew reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches), and then begin sewing.

as .

Automatic Thread Cutting

If the automatic thread cutting setting is selected before sewing, the machine will automatically sew reinforcement stitches (or reverse stitches, depending on the selected stitch pattern) and cut the thread when the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button is pressed at the end of stitching. This is useful when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks.

Memo

• The automatic thread cutti ng setting can be selected when the automatic reinforcement/reverse stitching setting is selected.

• The automatic thread cutting setting is already selected with embroidery pa t te r n s.

Select a stitch pattern.

a Reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches)

Press to select the automatic thread

cutting setting.

USEFUL FUNCTIONS

Locking the Screen

If the screen is locked before starting to sew, the various settings, such as the stitch width and stitch length, are locked and cannot be changed. This prevents screen settings from accidentally being changed or the machine from being stopped while large pieces of fabric or other projects are being sewn. The screen can be locked while sewing utility stitches and character/ decorative stitches.

→ The key appears as .

Place the fabric under the presser foot with the

needle at the starting point of the stitching, and then press the “Start/Stop” button. The machine will automatically sew reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches), and then begin sewing.

a Reverse stitches (or rein fo rce m en t stit ches )

Memo

If you press the “Start/Stop” button to pause sewing, then press it again to continue, reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) will not be sewn.

If the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button

is pressed, the machine automatically sews reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches), then cuts the thread.

Select a stitch pattern.

If necessary, adjust any settings, such as the

stitch width and stitch length.

Press .

→ The key appears as .

Sewing begins.

When you are finished sewing, press to

unlock the screen.

Note

• When the screen is locked ( ), no key other

than and the keys can be operated. To select a different stitch pattern or

change the settings, press so that it appears

as to unlock t he screen.

• When the screen is locked, pressing any of the

keys unlocks the screen.

• The screen is unlocked wh en the machine is turned off.

Sewing Basics

a Reverse stitches (or rein fo rce m en t stit ches )

Memo

To cancel the automatic thread cutting setting, press

again so that it appears as .

USEFUL FUNCTIONS

Chapter 3

Utility Stitches

SELECTING A UTILITY STITCH ...........48

■ Stitch Selection Screens .......................................48

Selecting a Stitch Pattern.................................. 49

■ Using the Mirror Image Key.................................49

Saving Stitch Settings........................................ 49

Using the Sewing Type Selection Key........................ 50

SEWING THE STITCHES ......................51

Straight Stitches................................................ 51

■ Changing the Needle Position

(Left or Middle Needle Position Stitches Only) ....52

■ Basting .................................................................53

Darts Seams...................................................... 53

Gathering ......................................................... 54

Flat Fell Seams.................................................. 54

Pintucks............................................................ 55

Zigzag Stitches ................................................. 56

■ Overcasting..........................................................56

■ Appliqués .............................................................56

■ Patchwork (Crazy Quilts).....................................57

■ Sewing Curves......................................................57

Elastic Zigzag Stitches ...................................... 57

■ Tape attaching......................................................57

■ Overcasting..........................................................57

Overcasting ...................................................... 58

■ Overcasting Using Presser Foot “G” ....................58

■ Overcasting Using Presser Foot “J”......................59

■ Overcasting Using the Optional Side Cutter ........60

Quilting ............................................................ 62

■ Piecing .................................................................62

■ Quilting................................................................63

■ Appliqués .............................................................63

■ Satin Stitching ......................................................64

■ Free-motion Quilting............................................65

Blind Hem Stitches ........................................... 66

■ If the Needle Does Not Catch the Fold ................ 67

■ If the Needle Catches Too Much of the Fold........ 67

Appliqués ......................................................... 67

■ Sewing Sharp Curves............................................68

Shell Tuck Stitching .......................................... 68

Scalloping......................................................... 68

Top Stitching .................................................... 69

Smocking.......................................................... 69

Fagoting............................................................ 70

Tape or Elastic Attaching.................................. 71

Heirloom Stitching ........................................... 72

■ Hemstitching (1) (Daisy Stitch) ............................72

■ Hemstitching (2) (Drawn Work (1)).....................72

■ Hemstitching (3) (Drawn Work (2)) .....................73

Buttonhole Stitches...........................................74

■ Sewing Stretch Fabrics .........................................77

■ Buttons That Do Not Fit into the Button

Holder Plate .........................................................77

■ Darning ................................................................78

Bar Tacks ..........................................................79

■ Bar Tacks on Thick Fabrics...................................80

Button Sewing...................................................81

■ Attaching a 4-Hole Button....................................82

■ Attaching a Button with a Shank ..........................82

Eyelets...............................................................82

Multi-Directional Sewing (Straight Stitch and

Zigzag Stitch) ............................................................ 83

Zipper Insertion ................................................84

■ Centered Zipper ...................................................84

■ Side Zipper ...........................................................85

SELECTING A UTILITY STITCH

■ Stitch Selection Screens

Press to display the previous or next page.

Straight/Overcasting/Quilting Stitches

Decorative Stitches

Buttonholes/Bar tacks Multi-Directional Sewing

Heirloom Stitches

SELECTING A UTILITY STITCH

Selecting a Stitch Pattern

Turn on the machine, and then lightly press

the display.

→ Depending on the setting, either "1-01 Straight stitch

(Left)" or "1-03 Straight stitch (Middle)" is automatically selected.

Press to display a screen of

the stitches in the selected category, and then select a stitch pattern.

* If a different screen is displayed, press .

Saving Stitch Settings

This machine is preset with the default settings for the stitch width (zigzag width), stitch length, thread tension, automatic thread cutting, automatic reverse/ reinforcement stitching, etc. However, if you wish to save specific settings for a stitch so that they can be

used later, press after changing the settings to save the new settings with the selected stitch.

Example: Using a stitch length of 2.0 mm for the

straight stitch

Select a straight stitch.

Memo

The default stitch length is 2.5 mm.

Set the stitch length to 2.0 mm.

Utility Stitches

→ An image of the selected stitch pattern is displayed

below the symbol of the appropriate presser foot.

Memo

For details on the stitch patterns, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

■ Using the Mirror Image Key

Press so that it appears as . A mirror image of the selected stitch pattern is created.

Note

If appears as after a stitch (buttonholes, multi-directional sewing patterns, etc.) is selected, a

mirror image of the selected stitch cannot be created.

Press .

* To reset the selected stitch pattern to its default

settings, press , and then press .

SELECTING A UTILITY STITCH

Memo

• The next time that the same straight stitch is selected, the stitch length is set to 2.0 mm.

• All stitch settings (stitch width (zigzag width), stitch length, thread tension, automatic th read cutting, and automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching) are saved, not just the setting that was changed. When the same stitch pattern is selected, the last settings saved are displayed even if the machine was turned

off. If the settings are changed again and is pressed, or if is pressed to reset the setting

to its default, the new settings are not saved unless

is pressed another time.

Using the Sewing Type Selection Key

By pressing , a utility stitch can also be selected according to its desired use. When you are not sure

which stitch to select for your application or when you need information on how certain stitches are used,

Press .

→ The upper part of the screen displays a selection of

overcasting stitches with explanations.

Read the descriptions, and then select the

appropriate stitch.

* Press or to scroll the page.

press , select the appropriate stitch for your project, and then follow the instructions to sew the

selected stitch. We recommend that beginners use this method to select stitches.

Example: Displaying information about

overcasting

Press .

→ The screen displays directions for sewing the

selected stitch.

Follow the directions to sew the stitch.

* Press to display the next page.

→ The advice screen is displayed.

When you have finished sewing, press .

SEWING THE STITCHES

Straight Stitches

Note

When using the twin needle (see page 31), be sure to attach presser foot “J”.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Stitch

Key

Stitch Name Presser

Straight stitch (Left)

Straight stitch (Middle)

Triple stretch stitch

Stretch stitch

Decorative stitch

Foot

Applications

General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button.

General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. Reinforcement stitch is se wn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button.

General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button.

General sewing, gather, pintuck, etc. Reinforcement stitch is se wn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button.

General sewing for reinforcement and decorative topstitching

Reinforced stitching, sewing and decorative applications

Decorative stitching, top stitching

Stitch width [mm (inch.)]

Auto. Manual Auto. Manual

0.0 (0)

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

0.0 (0)

1.0

(1/16)

0.0 (0)

0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)

0.0 - 7.0

(0 - 1/4)

1.0 - 3.0

(1/16 - 1/8)

0.0 - 7.0

(0 - 1/4)

Stitch length

[mm (inch.)]

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

1.5 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

Twin

needle

( J )

Utility Stitches

Basting stitch

Basting

0.0 (0)

0.0 - 7.0

(0 - 1/4)

20.0 (3/4)

5.0 - 30.0

(3/16 - 1-3/16)

J J

a Left needle position b Middle needle position

a Reverse stitch b Reinforcement stitch

Memo

“ ” at the beginning of the stitch shown on the key indicates that reverse stitches are sewn when the “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button is pressed. “ ” at the beginning of the stitch shown on the key indicates that reinforcement

stitches are sewn when the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button is pressed.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Select a stitch pattern.

Attach presser foot “J”.

Hold the thread ends and the fabric with your

left hand, and turn the handwheel toward you with your right hand to insert the needle into the fabric at the starting point of the stitching.

At the end of the stitching, hold the “Reverse/

Reinforcement Stitch” button pressed to sew reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches).

Press the “Thread Cutter” button to trim the

threads.

* If the automatic thread cutting setting is selected

before sewing, the machine will automatically sew reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) at the beginning of stitching. When the “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button is pressed at the end of stitching, the machine will automatically sew reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches) and cut the thread.

a Starting point of stitching

Lower the presser foot lever.

Hold the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”

button pressed to sew reverse stitches (or reinforcement stitches), and then press the “Start/Stop” button to start sewing slowly.

a Reverse stitches

CAUTION

• Be sure the needle does not strike a basting pin, or any other objects, during sewing. The thread could tangle or the needle could break, causing injury.

■ Changing the Needle Position (Left or Middle Needle Position Stitches Only)

When you select left or middle needle position stitches, you can use and in the stitch

width display to change the position of the needle. Match the distance from the right edge of the presser foot to the needle with the stitch width, then align the edge of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric during sewing for an attractive finish.

a Stitch width

12.0 mm (approx. 1/2 inch)

8.5 mm (approx.

11/32 inch)

6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch)

5.0 mm

(approx.

3/16 inch)

Memo

For a standard 16 mm (approx. 5/8 inch) seam allowance, set the width to 0 mm on the screen. While sewing, align the edge of the fabric with the 16mm (approx. 5/8 inch) mark on the needle plate.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Darts Seams

Press , and then attach presser foot “J”.

Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”

button to sew reverse stitches at the beginning of the stitching, and then sew from the wide end to the other end without stretching the fabric.

* If the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching

setting is selected before sewing, reverse stitches will be sewn at the beginning of the stitching.

a 16 mm (approx. 5/8 inch)

■ Basting

Press , and then attach presser foot “J”.

Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”

button to sew reinforcement stitches at the beginning of the stitching.

Memo

The stitch length can be set between 5 mm and 30 mm (approx. 3/16 and 1-3/16 inches).

a Between 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and 30 mm

(approx. 1-3/16 inches)

a Basting

Without sewing reverse stitches at the end of

the stitching, pull out 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches) of the threads, cut them, and then tie the two ends together.

Insert the ends of the thread into the dart

with a sewing needle.

Utility Stitches

Sew while lightly guiding the fabric.

Memo

This is easy to do if the foot controller is used (see page 39).

End the basting with reinforcement stitches.

Iron the dart to one side.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Gathering

Sew gathers on sleeves, the waist of a gathered skirt, etc.

Select a straight stitch, and then attach

presser foot “J”.

Set the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx.

3/16 inch) and the thread tension to 2.0 (weaker tension).

Pull the bobbin threads to create the desired

amount of gathering, and then tie the threads.

Smooth the gathers by ironing them.

Sew along the seam line, and then remove the

basting stitch.

Flat Fell Seams

Memo

If you press , then , the stitch length is automatically set to 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16

inch) and the thread tension is automatic ally s et to 2. 0.

Pull out 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches) of

both the upper and bobbin threads (see “Pulling Up the Bobbin Thread” on page 27).

a Upper thread b Bobbin thread c 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches)

Sew a row of straight stitches along each side

of the seam line, pull out 50 mm (1-15/16 inches) of the upper and bobbin threads, and then cut the threads.

Use flat fell seams to reinforce seams and finish edges neatly.

Press , and then attach presser foot “J”.

With the surfaces of the two pieces of fabric

facing each other, sew the seam line, and then cut off half the seam allowance from the side on which the flat fell seam will lie.

* If the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching and

automatic thread cutting settings are selected before sewing, reverse stitches will automatically be sewn at the beginning and end of the stitching and the thread will be cut.

a About 12 mm (approx. 1/2 inch) b Wrong side of fabric

Spread out the fabric along the seam line.

a 10 to 15 mm (approx. 3/8 to 9/16 inch) b Seam line c 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches)

a Wrong side of fabric b Seam line

Lay both seam allowances on the side of the

shorter one (cut seam allowance) and iron them flat.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Pintucks

Use pin tucks to decorate blouses.

a Wrong side of fabric

Fold the longer seam allowance around the

shorter one, and then sew along the edge of the fold.

a Wrong side of fabric

Finished flat fell seam

a Surface of fabric

Mark the positions of the folds on the wrong

side of the fabric.

a Wrong side of fabric

Turn the fabric over, and then iron only the

folds with the tip of the iron.

a Surface of fabric

Press , and then attach presser foot “I”.

Attach the pin on the right side of presser foot

“I” to the presser foot holder, and then sew along the folds.

* If the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching and

automatic thread cutting settings are selected before sewing, reverse stitches will automatically be sewn at the beginning and end of the stitching and the thread will be cut.

Utility Stitches

a Wrong side of fabric b Surface of fabric c Width of pin tuck

Iron the folds in the same direction.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Zigzag Stitches

Zigzag stitches are useful for a variety of applications, including overcasting and sewing appliqués and patchwork.

Note

When using the twin needle (see page 31), be sure to attach presser foot “J”.

Stitch

Key

Stitch Name

Zigzag stitch (Middle)

Zigzag stitch (Right)

Zigzag stitch (Left)

Select a stitch, and then attach presser foot “J”.

Presser

Foot

Applications

For overcasting, mending. Reverse stitch is sewn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button.

For overcasting, mending. Reinforcement stitch is sewn while pressing “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button.

Start from right needle position, zigzag sew at left.

Start from left needle position, zigzag sew at right.

■ Overcasting

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)

2.5 - 5.0

(3/32 - 3/16)

2.5 - 5.0

(3/32 - 3/16)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

1.4

(1/16)

1.4

(1/16)

1.4

(1/16)

1.4

(1/16)

0.0 - 4.0

(0 - 3/16)

0.0 - 4.0

(0 - 3/16)

0.3 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

0.3 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

Twin

Needle

( J )

Sew while making sure that the needle drops slightly off the edge of the fabric.

Memo

“ “ at the beginning of the stitch shown on the key indicates that reverse stitches are sewn when the

“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button is pressed. “ “ at the beginning of the stitch shown on the key indicates that reinforcement stitches are sewn when the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button is pressed.

a Needle drop point

■ Appliqués

Attach the appliqué using a temporary spray adhesive or basting, and then sew along the edge of the appliqué, making sure that the needle drops slightly off the edge.

SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Patchwork (Crazy Quilts)

Turn back the desired width of fabric, place it over a different piece of fabric, and then sew the two fabric pieces together so the stitching bridges both pieces.

■ Sewing Curves

Shorten the stitch length setting to obtain a fine stitch. Sew slowly, keeping the seams parallel with the fabric edge as you guide the fabric around the curve.

Elastic Zigzag Stitches

Use elastic zigzag stitches for a wide variety of applications, including overcasting, tape attaching, and darning.

Stitch

Key

Stitch Name

2 step elastic zigzag

3 step elastic zigzag

Presser

Foot

Applications

Overcasting (medium weight and stretch fabrics), tape and elastic

Overcasting (medium, heavyweight and stretch fabrics), tape and elastic

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

1.5 - 7.0

(1/16 - 1/4)

1.5 - 7.0

(1/16 - 1/4)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

1.0

(1/16)

(1/64 - 1/16)

1.0

(1/16)

(1/64 - 1/16)

0.2 - 4.0

Twin

Needle

( J )

Utility Stitches

Select a stitch, and then attach presser foot

“J”.

■ Tape attaching

Stretch the tape flat. While stretching the tape flat, sew the tape to the fabric.

a Elastic tape

■ Overcasting

Use this stitch to sew overcasting on the edge of stretch fabrics. Sew while making sure that the needle drops slightly off the edge of the fabric.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Overcasting

Sew overcasting at the beginning and end of seams for skirts or pants, and at the beginning and end of all cuttings. Depending on the selected stitch, use presser foot “G” or “J” or the side cutter attachment (sold separately).

■ Overcasting Using Presser Foot “G”

Stitch

Key

Stitch Name

Overcasting stitch

Select a stitch, and then attach presser foot “G”.

Presser

Foot

Applications

Reinforcing of light and medium weight fabrics

Reinforcing of heavyweight fabric

Reinforcing of medium, heavyweight and easily friable fabrics or decorative stitching.

• After the stitch width is adjusted, turn the handwheel

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

2.5 - 5.0

(3/32 - 3/16)

2.5 - 5.0

(3/32 - 3/16)

3.5 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

Stitch Length*

[mm (inch)]

2.0

(1/16)

(3/32)

(1/16 - 3/16)

2.5

(1/16 - 3/16)

2.5

(1/16 - 3/16)

1.0 - 4.0

Twin

Needle

CAUTION

toward you by hand and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may break and cause injury.

Lower the presser foot so that the presser foot

guide is flush against the edge of the fabric.

Sew along the presser foot guide.

a The needle should not touch

• If the presser foot is raised to its highest level, the needle may strike the presser foot.

a Presser foot guide

■ Overcasting Using Presser Foot “J”

SEWING THE STITCHES

Stitch

Key

Stitch Name

Overcasting stitc h

Single diamond overcast

Select a stitch, and then attach presser foot “J”.

Presser

Foot

Reinforced seaming of stretch fabric

Reinforcing of medium stretch fabric and heavyweight fabric, decorative stitching

Reinforcement of stretch fabric or decorative stitching

Stretch knit seam

Reinforcement and seaming stretch fabric

Reinforcement of stretch fabric

Applications

Stitch width [mm (inch.)]

Auto. Manual Auto. Manual

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

6.0

(15/

64)

6.0

(15/

64)

0.0 - 7.0

(0 - 9/32)

0.0 - 7.0

(0 - 9/32)

0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)

1.0 - 7.0

(1/16 - 1/4)

1.0 - 7.0

(1/16 - 1/4)

Stitch length

[mm (inch.)]

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

4.0

(3/16)

4.0

(3/16)

3.0

(1/8)

1.8

(1/16)

0.5 - 4.0

(1/32 - 3/16)

0.5 - 4.0

(1/32 - 3/16)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

Twin

needle

( J )

Utility Stitches

Sew while making sure that the needle drops

slightly off the edge of the fabric.

Memo

For best results when sewing stretch fabrics, decrease the pressure of the presser foot.

a Needle drop point

SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Overcasting Using the Optional Side Cutter

By using the side cutter, you can do overcasting while cutting the fabric.

CAUTION

• Make sure to only select one of the stitches listed below. Using another stitch may cause the needle to hit the presser foot and break, possibly causing injury.

Memo

Thread the needle manually when using the side cutter, or only attach the side cutter after threading the needle using the needle threader.

Stitch Stitch name

With side cutter

Follow the steps on page 33 to remove the

presser foot.

Position the fork on the side cutter’s

operating lever onto the needle clamp screw.

Presser

foot

Straight stitch while cutting fabrics

Zigzag stitch while cutting fabrics

Overcasting stitch while cutting fabrics

Applications

Stitch width [mm (inch.)]

Auto. Manual Auto. Manual

0.0 (0)

3.5

(1/8)

3.5

(1/8)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

Position the side cutter so that the side cutter

pin is aligned with the notch in the presser

0.0 - 2.5

(0 - 3/32)

3.5 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

3.5 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

3.5 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

3.5 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

Stitch length

[mm (inch.)]

2.5

(3/32)

1.4

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

2.5

(3/32)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

0.0 - 4.0

(0 - 3/16)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

foot holder, and then lower the presser foot.

Twin

needle

a Needle clamp screw b Operating lever

Memo

Make sure that the fork of the operating lever is set onto the needle clamp screw firmly.

a Notch in presser foot holder b Pin

→ The side cutter is attached.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Select a stitch.

Make a cut of approximately 20 mm (approx.

3/4 inch) in the fabric.

a 20 mm (approx. 3/4 inch)

Start sewing.

→ A seam allowance is cut while the stitching is sewn.

Note

If the width has been adjusted, turn the handwheel by hand to check that the needle does not touch the side cutter. If the needle touches the side cutter, it might cause the needle to break.

■ When Sewing Straight Stitches While Using the Side Cutter

The seam margin should be approximately 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch).

Utility Stitches

Position the fabric so that the right side of the

cut is on top of the guide plate and the left side of the cut is underneath the presser foot.

a Guide plate (lower knife) b Presser foot

Thread the needle manually and pull out a

long section of the upper thread. Pass it below the presser foot and pull it out in the fabric feed direction.

a Seam margin

Memo

• The fabric will not b e c ut if t he whole f ab ric is simp ly spread out underneath the presser foot guide plate. Set the fabric as explained in step previous section, and then start sewing.

• One layer of 13 oz. denim can be cut.

• Clean the side cutter after use to avoid having dust and scraps of thread build up on it.

• Add a small amount of oil as requi red to the cutting edge of the cutter.

from the

a Presser foot b Upper thread

SEWING THE STITCHES

Quilting

You can make beautiful quilts quickly and easily with this machine. When making a quilt, you will find it convenient to use the knee lifter and foot controller to free your hands for other tasks (see “Using the Foot Controller” on page 39 and/or see “Using the Knee Lifter” on page 40). Patterns with “P” or “Q” in the lower-right corner of the key are intended for quilting.

Stitch

Key

Stitch Name

Piecing stitch (Right)

Piecing stitch (Middle)

Piecing stitch (Left)

Hand-look quilting

Quilting appliqué zigzag stitch

Quilting appliqué stitch

Quilting stippling

Presser

Foot

Applications

Piecework/patchwork

6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) right seam allowance

Piecework/patchwork

6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) left seam allowance

Quilting stitch made to look like hand quilting stitch

Zigzag stitch for quilting and sewing on appliqué quilt pieces

Quilting stitch for invisible appliqué or attaching binding

Background quilting

Stitch width [mm (inch.)]

Auto. Manual Auto. Manual

5.5

(7/32)

— —

1.5

(1/16)

0.0 (0)

3.5

(1/8)

1.5

(1/16)

7.0

(1/4)

0.0 - 7.0 (0 - 1/4)

0.5 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

1.0 - 7.0

(1/16 - 1/4)

Stitch length

[mm (inch.)]

2.0

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

2.5

(3/32)

1.4

(1/16)

1.8

(1/16)

1.6

(1/16)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

0.2 - 5.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

0.0 - 4.0

(0 - 3/16)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

1.0 - 4.0

(1/16 - 3/16)

Twin

needle

possibi

lity

■ Piecing

Sewing two pieces of fabric together is called piecing. When cutting pieces for quilt blocks, make sure the seam allowance is 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch).

Memo

To change the width of the seam allowan ce, adjust t he stitch width to change the needle position.

Press or , and then attach presser

foot “J”.

Sew with the edge of the fabric aligned with

the side of the presser foot.

Stitch width when is selected

a 6.5 mm (approx. 1/14 inch) b Align with left side of presser foot.

Memo

• The stitch widt h refers to the needl e position, not the width of the seam allowance.

• To change the needle positi on, press or in the width display.

• After the stitch len gth and needle position are set as desired, the settings can be saved (see page 49).

a 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) b Align with right side of presser foot.

SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Quilting

Sewing together the quilt top, batting, and backing is called quilting. You can sew the quilt with the walking foot to keep the quilt top, batting, and backing from sliding. The walking foot has a set of feed dogs that move together with the feed dogs in the needle plate during sewing.

Follow the steps on page 33 to remove the

presser foot.

Loosen the screw of the presser foot holder to

remove the presser foot holder.

Set the operation lever of the walking foot so

that the needle clamp screw is set between the fork, and position the walking foot on the presser foot bar.

Place one hand on each side of the presser

foot to hold the fabric secure while sewing.

Memo

• Sew at slow to medium speed.

• Do not sew in reverse or use stitches that require side ways or reverse feeding.

• Always check to be sure that your quilting surface is securely basted before beginning to sew. Specialized machine quilt needles and threads are also available for machine quilting.

■ Appliqués

The seam will blend in if transparent nylon thread is used for the upper thread.

Trace the pattern onto the appliqué fabric,

and then cut around it.

Utility Stitches

a Operation lever b Needle clamp screw c Fork d Presser foot bar

Lower the presser foot lever. Tighten the

screw securely with the screwdriver.

a Seam allowance: 3 to 5 mm

Cut a piece of thick paper or stabilizer to the

finished size of the appliqué design, place it on the back of the appliqué, and then fold over the seam allowance using an iron.

Turn the appliqué over, and attach the

stabilizer with basting pins or a basting stitch.

Press , and then attach presser foot “J”.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Check the needle drop point, and then sew

along the edge of the appliqué while making sure that the needle drops slightly off the edge of the fabric.

a Needle drop point

CAUTION

• Be careful that the needle does not strike a basting pin during sewing. Striking a pin can cause the needle to break, resulting in injury.

■ Satin Stitching

Use the foot controller to sew with satin stitches. If you set the speed control slide to control the stitch width, you can make subtle changes in the stitch width during sewing.

Connect the foot controller (see page 39).

Press , and then attach presser foot “J”.

Set “WIDTH CONTROL” to “ON”. The

sewing speed will be adjusted using the foot controller.

Press .

While sewing, slide the sewing speed

controller to adjust the stitch width.

Memo

• Slide the controller to the left to make the width narrower. Slide the controller to the right to make t he width wider.

• The stitch width is adjusted equally from the center needle position.

Press in the length display to shorten the

stitch length.

Memo

A stitch length between 0.3 and 0.5 mm (approx. 1/64 and 1/32 inch) is best for satin stitches, although this range varies depending on the type of fabric and thickness of thread used.

a Narrower b Wider

When you are finished sewing, set “WIDTH

CONTROL” back to “OFF”.

Press .

* Change the sewing speed controller to a stitch width

controller.

SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Free-motion Quilting

With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be lowered (using the feed dog position switch) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction. The quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting. We recommend attaching the foot controller and sewing at a consistent speed.

Memo

In order to sew a balanced stitch, it may be necessary to lower the upper thread tension (see page 43) or to loosen the presser foot pressure at the setting screen (see page 20). Test with a sample piece.

Select .

Remove the presser foot holder (see page 63).

Align the quilting foot with the lower-left side

of the presser bar.

Lower the feed dog position switch, located at

the rear of the base of the machine, to .

a Rear of machine b Feed dog position switch

(as seen from the rear of the machine)

c Up d Down

Use both hands to stretch the fabric taut, and

then move the fabric at a regular pace in order to sew uniform stitches roughly 2.0-2.5 mm (approx. 1/16 - 3/32 inch) in length.

Utility Stitches

Memo

The pin on the quilting foot should be positioned ove r the needle clamp screw.

Hold the quilting foot in place with your right

hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.

a Pin on quilting foot b Presser foot holder screw c Needle clamp screw

CAUTION

• Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the screwdriver. Otherwise, the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break.

a Stitch

→ Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the beginning

and end of sewing.

After sewing is finished, raise the feed dog

position switch to to raise the feed dogs. Reset your machine to normal setting.

Memo

Normally, the feed dog position switch is in the up position.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Blind Hem Stitches

Select a blind hem stitch to sew the hems or cuffs of dresses, blouses, pants, or skirts.

Stitch

Key

Stitch Name Presser

Blind hem stitch

Select a stitch pattern.

Memo

For best results when sewing stretch f abrics, decrease the pressure of the presser foot.

Foot

Applications Stitch Width

Hemming woven fabrics

Hemming stretch fabric

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

00 3← − →3

Fold the fabric again, as shown.

a 5 mm b 5 mm c Basting d Wrong side of fabric

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.0

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

1.0 - 3.5

(1/16 - 1/8)

1.0 - 3.5

(1/16 - 1/8)

Twin

Needle

Place the fabric wrong side up, and then fold

and baste the fabric as shown.

a 5 mm b Wrong side of fabric c Basting

Attach presser foot “R”, and then lower the

presser foot so that the presser foot guide is flush against the fold of the fabric.

a Presser foot guide b Fold

Sew while keeping the fold in the fabric against

the presser foot guide.

a Needle position b Presser foot guide

Remove the basting, and then turn over the

fabric.

a Wrong side of fabric b Surface of fabric

SEWING THE STITCHES

Appliqués

Use a temporary spray adhesive or basting to

attach the appliqué to the fabric.

Memo

Blind hem stitches cannot be sewn if the needle does not catch the fold on the left side. However, if the needle catches too much of the fold, the fabric cannot be unfolded and too much of the seam will appear on the surface of the fabric, leaving an unat trac ti ve fi nis h. If either of these occur, follow the instructions below to correct the problem.

■ If the Needle Does Not Catch the Fold

Press in the width display so that the needle slightly catches the fold.

a Appliqué b Fabric glue

Press or .

Memo

• Adjust the stitch width and length according to the shape, size and fabric quality of the appliqué (see page 42).

• For details on the stitch patterns, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

Attach presser foot “J”, and then sew along

the edge of the appliqué, making sure that the needle drops slightly off the edge.

Utility Stitches

■ If the Needle Catches Too Much of the Fold

Press in the width display so that the needle slightly catches the fold.

a Appliqué

a Needle drop point

SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Sewing Sharp Curves

Stop the machine with the needle in the fabric outside the appliqué. Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric a little bit at a time while sewing for an attractive finish to the seam.

Shell Tuck Stitching

The arched tuck that looks like shells lined up in a row is called a shell tuck. In addition to edging, this decorative stitching can be used on the neckline or sleeves of dresses and blouses.

Press .

Memo

For details on the stitch patterns, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

Attach presser foot “J”, and then sew along

the edge of the fabric, making sure that the needle drops slightly off the edge.

a Needle drop point

Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks

down to one side.

Increase the thread tension for an attractive

scalloped finish to the shell tuck stitching.

Memo

If the thread tension is too loose, the shell tuck stitching will not scallop.

Fold the fabric in half along the bias.

ÅB

Note

Use a thin fabric.

Scalloping

Scallop stitching (wave-shaped running stitching) can be used to decorate the edges of blouse collars and handkerchiefs.

Press , and then attach presser foot “N”.

Memo

• If the automatic thread cutting setting is selected before sewing, the machine will automatically sew reinforcement stitches at the beginning of stitching. When the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button is pressed at the end of stitching, the machine will automatically sew reinforcement stitches and cut the thread.

• For best results, apply a temporary spray adhesive and iron the fabric before sewing.

• For details on the stitch patterns, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Leave a seam when sewing the scallop

stitches so that the pattern is not sewn directly on the edge of the fabric.

Note

Sew test stitches on the fabric before sewing on your project.

Trim along the seam, making sure not to cut

the stitches.

Turn the fabric over so that the surface faces

up, and then sew over the seam with the center of the presser foot aligned with the seam.

* Select one of the following stitch patterns.

a Surface of fabric

Smocking

The decorative stitching created by sewing or embroidering over gathers is called smocking. It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs.

Utility Stitches

Top Stitching

For a decorative effect in a crazy quilt, stitches can be sewn over a pressed seam allowance.

Select a straight stitch, and then attach

presser foot “J”.

Sew together two pieces of fabric with their

surfaces facing each other, and then open the seam allowances.

Select a straight stitch, and then attach

presser foot “J”.

Note

Make sure that the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching and automatic thread cutting settings are not selected.

Set the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx.

3/16 inch) and the thread tension to 2.0 (weaker tension).

Pull out 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches) of

both the upper and bobbin threads.

Sew stitching 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch) apart.

a Approximately 10mm (approx. 3/8 inch)

a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) b Wrong side of fabric c Straight stitch d Seam allowance

SEWING THE STITCHES

Pull the bobbin threads to create the desired

amount of gather, and then smooth the gathers by ironing them.

Fagoting

Stitching across an open seam is called fagoting. It is used on blouses and children’s clothing.

Separate the two pieces of fabric by about

4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch), and baste them onto thin paper.

Press or .

Memo

For details on the stitch patterns, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

Sew between the straight stitches.

a 4 mm b Thin paper c Basting

Press or , and then set the stitch

width to the maximum (7.0 mm).

Memo

For details on the stitch patterns, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

Attach presser foot “J”, and then sew with the presser foot centered between the two pieces of fabric.

Pull out the straight stitch threads.

Memo

This stitch is more decorative when thicker thread is used.

a Basting

When you are finished sewing, gently tear off

the paper.

Tape or Elastic Attaching

Press or .

SEWING THE STITCHES

Elastic tape is sewn onto the fabric unstretched.

Select a straight stitch, and then attach

presser foot “J”.

Note

Make sure that the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching and automatic thread cutting settings are not selected.

Set the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx.

3/16 inch) and the thread tension to 2.0 (weaker tension).

Pull out 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches) of

both the upper and bobbin threads (see “Pulling Up the Bobbin Thread” on page 27).

Note

For details on the stitch patterns, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

While pulling the elastic tape so that it is

about the same length as the fabric, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand, and feed the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand according to the feeding speed.

Memo

This is easy to do if the foot controller is used.

Utility Stitches

a Upper thread b Bobbin thread c 50 mm

Sew two rows of straight stitches on the

surface of the fabric, and then pull the bobbin threads to create the desired amount of gather.

Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the

fabric with the elastic tape evenly positioned on the gathers.

CAUTION

• Be sure the needle does not strike a basting pin, or any other objects, during sewing. The thread could tangle or the needle could break, causing injury.

Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.

a Elastic tape

SEWING THE STITCHES

Heirloom Stitching

By sewing with the wing needle (sold separately), the needle holes are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch. This stitching is used to decorate tablecloths, hems, and shirt fronts.

■ Hemstitching (1) (Daisy Stitch)

Note

For best results, use lightweight to medium weight homespun fabrics with a slight stretch.

Insert the wing needle (130/705H, size 100/

16).

Note

The needle threader cannot be used. Manually pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front . If the needle threader is used, damage to the mach ine may result.

Select a stitch, attach presser foot “N”, and

then start sewing.

* Select a stitch between 3-01 and 3-22.

Drawn Work (1

CAUTION

• The “Automatic Threading” button cannot be used.

Thread the wing needle by hand, from front to back. Using the “Automatic Threading” button may result in damage to the machine.

• A more attractive finish can be obtained if you use a

“130/705H Wing” needle when sewing these patterns. If using a wing needle and the stitch width has been set manually, check that the needle will not touch the presser foot by carefully rotating the handwheel before starting sewing.

Memo

For details on the stitch patterns, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

■ Hemstitching (2) (Drawn Work (1))

SEWING THE STITCHES

Pull out several threads from the fabric to

leave a 3 mm (approx. 1/8 inch) area open.

Memo

For best result, use loosely woven fabrics.

Press , and then attach presser foot “N”.

Memo

For details on the stitch patterns, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

With the surface of the fabric facing up, sew

along the right edge of the open area.

■ Hemstitching (3) (Drawn Work (2))

Memo

Drawn work can also be sewn using the wing needle (sold separately).

Pull out several threads from both sides of a 4

mm (approx. 3/16 inch) area left unopened, as shown in the illustration.

Utility Stitches

Press to create a mirror image of the

stitch.

Sew along the left edge of the open area so

that the stitching looks symmetrical.

a Pulled out thread b Pulled out area c Approximately 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) remaining

Press .

Memo

For details on the stitch patterns, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

Attach presser foot “N”, and then sew along

the center of the unopened area.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Buttonhole Stitches

Select the desired buttonhole stitch according to your application and the size of the button.

Stitch

Key

Stitch Name

Narrow rounded buttonhole

Wide round ended buttonhole

Tapered round ended buttonhole

Round ended buttonhole

Round double ended buttonhole

Narrow squared buttonhole

Stretch buttonhole

Heirloom buttonhole

Bound buttonhole

Presser

Foot

Applications

Buttonhole on light to medium weight fabrics

Buttonholes with extra space for larger buttons

Reinforced waist tapered buttonholes

Buttonholes with vertical bar tack in heavyweight fabrics

Buttonholes for fine, medium to heavyweight fabrics

Buttonholes for light to medium weight fabrics

Buttonholes for stretch or woven fabrics

Buttonholes for heirloom and stretch fabrics

The first step in making bound buttonholes

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

5.0

(3/16)

5.5

(7/32)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

5.0

(3/16)

6.0

(15/

64)

6.0

(15/

64)

5.0

(3/16)

3.0 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

3.5 - 5.5

(1/8 - 7/32)

3.0 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

3.0 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

3.0 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

3.0 - 5.0

(1/8 - 3/16)

3.0 - 6.0

(1/8 - 15/64)

3.0 - 6.0

(1/8 - 15/64)

0.0 - 6.0

(0 - 15/64)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

0.4

(1/64)

1.0

(1/16)

1.5

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

0.2 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

0.5 - 2.0

(1/32 - 1/16)

1.0 - 3.0

(1/16 - 1/8)

0.2 - 4.0

(1/64 - 3/16)

Twin

Needle

Keyhole buttonhole

Tapered keyhole buttonhole

Keyhole buttonhole

Buttonholes in heavyweight or thick fabrics for larger flat buttons

Buttonholes in medium to heavy weight fabrics for larger flat buttons

Buttonholes with vertical bar tack for reinforcement in heavyweight or thick fabrics

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

3.0 - 7.0

(1/8 - 1/4)

3.0 - 7.0

(1/8 - 1/4)

3.0 - 7.0

(1/8 - 1/4)

Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.

0.5

(1/32)

0.5

(1/32)

0.5

(1/32)

0.3 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

0.3 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

0.3 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

a Reinforcement stitching

SEWING THE STITCHES

Select a stitch, and then attach presser foot

“A”.

Mark the position and length of the

buttonhole on the fabric.

Memo

The maximum buttonhole length is 28 mm (approx. 11/6 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button).

Pull out the button holder plate on the presser

foot, and then insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole.

* The size of the buttonhole is set by clamping the

button in the button holder plate.

Hold the outside frame of the buttonhole foot

toward the back with your finger, and then lower the presser foot so that the mark on the fabric aligns with the marks on the buttonhole foot.

a Mark on fabric b Marks on presser foot

Note

• Slide the outside frame of the buttonhole foot backward as far as possible, making sure that there is no gap behind the part of the foot marked “A”, as shown in the illustration. If the buttonhole foot is not slid back as far as possible, the buttonhole will not be sewn at the correct size.

• Pass the thread under the presser foot.

Utility Stitches

Note

Pass the thread under the presser foot.

a Button holder plate

Pull down the buttonhole lever.

* The buttonhole lever should be positioned behind

the metal bracket on the buttonhole foot, as shown in the illustration.

a Buttonhole lever

a Metal bracket

SEWING THE STITCHES

Gently hold the end of the upper thread, and

then start sewing.

* Once sewing is completed, the machine

automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.

* If the automatic thread cutting setting is selected

before sewing, the machine will automatically cut the thread at the end of stitching.

Note

• If the fabric does not feed, for examp le, because it is too thick, press in the length display to

increase the stitch length.

• When sewing is finished, raise the buttonhole lever to its original position.

Insert a pin along the inside of a bar tack at

the end of the buttonhole, and then insert the seam ripper into the center of the buttonhole and cut towards the pin.

Note

Be careful not to cut the stitches with the seam ripper.

a Pin b Seam ripper

CAUTION

• When using the seam ripper to open the buttonhole, do not put your hand or finger in the path of the ripper. The ripper may slip and cause injury.

For keyhole buttonholes, use the included eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole. Then, insert a pin along the inside of the bar tack, insert a seam ripper into the hole made with the eyelet punch, and then cut towards the pin.

a Pin b Eyelet punch

SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Sewing Stretch Fabrics

When sewing a buttonhole on stretch fabrics, press

or , and use a gimp thread.

Hook the gimp thread onto the back of

buttonhole foot “A”, and then pull the ends of the gimp thread under the presser foot. Pass the thread ends through the grooves at the front of the presser foot, and then temporarily tie them.

* Use #5 embroidery thread or lace yarn for the gimp

thread.

a Upper thread

Lower the presser foot lever, and then start

sewing.

* Set the stitch width to the width of the gimp thread.

■ Buttons That Do Not Fit into the Button Holder Plate

Use the markings on the presser foot scale to set the size of the buttonhole. The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch). Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button holder plate to the calculated value.

a Button holder plate b Presser foot scale c Finished measurement (diameter + thickness) d 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)

Example: For a button with a diameter of

15 mm (approx. 9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch), the scale should be set at 25 mm (approx. 1 inch).

Utility Stitches

When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp

thread to remove any slack, and then use a handsewing needle with a large eye to pull the gimp thread to the wrong side of the fabric.

Tie the ends together, and then trim the

excess.

* After using the seam ripper to cut the threads sewn

over the buttonhole, trim the threads.

a Thickness: 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch) b Diameter: 15 mm (approx. 9/16 inch)

SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Darning

Use darning stitches for mending and other applications.

Stitch

Key

Stitch Name Presser

Darning

Foot

Applications Stitch Width

Darning of medium weight fabric

Darning of heavyweight fabric

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

7.0

(1/4)

7.0

(1/4)

2.5 - 7.0

(3/32 - 1/4)

2.5 - 7.0

(3/32 - 1/4)

Darning is sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

2.0

(1/16)

2.0

(1/16)

0.4 - 2.5

(1/64 - 1/16)

0.4 - 2.5

(1/64 - 1/16)

Twin

Needle

a Reinforcement stitching

Select a stitch pattern.

Set the scale on buttonhole foot “A” to the

desired length of the darning, and then attach the buttonhole foot.

Memo

The maximum length for darning is 28 mm (approx. 11/16 inches).

a Presser foot scale b Finished measurement c 7 mm wide (approx. 1/4 inch) d 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)

Hold the outside frame of the buttonhole foot

toward the back with your finger, and then lower the presser foot so that it aligns with the area to be darned.

Note

• Pass the thread under the presser foot.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Pull down the buttonhole lever.

* The buttonhole lever should be positioned behind

the metal bracket on the buttonhole foot, as shown in the illustration.

a Buttonhole lever

a Metal bracket

Gently hold the end of the upper thread, and

then start sewing.

* Once sewing is completed, the machine

automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.

* If the automatic thread cutting setting is selected

before sewing, the machine will automatically cut the thread at the end of stitching.

Note

If the fabric does not feed, for example, because it is too thick, press in the length display to increase

the stitch length.

Utility Stitches

Bar Tacks

Bar tacks are one type of reinforcement stitching used to strengthen points subject to strain, such as ends of pocket openings and slits.

Stitch

Key

a b

Stitch Name Presser

Bar tack

Foot

Reinforcement at opening of pocket, etc.

Applications Stitch Width

Press .

Set the scale on buttonhole foot “A” to the desired length of the darning, and then attach the buttonhole foot.

Memo

The bar tack length can be set between 5 and 28 mm (approx. 3/16 and 1-1/16 inches). Bar tacks are usually between 5 and 10 mm (approx. 3/16 and 3/8 inch) (This differs depending on the application.)

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Auto Manual Auto Manual

2.0

(1/16)

a Presser foot scale b Finished measurement c 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)

1.0 - 3.0

(1/16 - 1/8)

[mm (inch)]

0.4

(1/64)

0.3 - 1.0

(1/64 - 1/16)

Twin

Needle

SEWING THE STITCHES

Position the fabric so that the opening of the

pocket moves toward you during sewing. Hold the outside frame of the buttonhole foot toward the back with your finger, check the first needle drop point, and then lower the presser foot.

Gently hold the end of the upper thread, and

then start sewing.

* Once sewing is completed, the machine

automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.

* If the automatic thread cutting setting is selected

before sewing, the machine will automatically cut the thread at the end of stitching.

■ Bar Tacks on Thick Fabrics

Place a piece of folded fabric or cardboard beside the fabric being sewn to level the buttonhole foot and allow for easier feeding.

a First needle drop point: 2 mm (approx. 1/16 inch)

Note

• Pass the thread under the presser foot.

Pull down the buttonhole lever.

* The buttonhole lever should be positioned behind

the metal bracket on the buttonhole foot, as shown in the illustration.

a Presser foot b Thick fabric

Note

If the fabric does not feed, for example, because it is too thick, press in the length display to increase the stitch length.

a Buttonhole lever

a Metal bracket

Button Sewing

Buttons with 2 or 4 holes can be sewn on.

Note

Make sure that the automatic thread cutting setting is not selected when sewing on buttons.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Stitch

Key

a b

a Feed dog position switch

Stitch Name

Button sewing

Press .

Raise the presser foot lever, and remove the flat bed attachment.

Lower the feed dog position switch to to lower the feed dogs.

Attach button fitting foot “M”, slide the button along the metal plate and into the

Presser

Foot

Attaching buttons

presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever.

Applications

Stitch width [mm (inch.)]

Auto. Manual Auto. Manual

3.5

(1/8)

Gently hold the end of the upper thread, and

then start sewing.

* Once sewing is completed, the machine

automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops.

* If the automatic thread cutting setting is selected

before sewing, the machine will automatically cut the thread at the end of stitching.

2.5 - 4.5

(3/32 - 3/16)

Stitch length

[mm (inch.)]

— —NO

Note

• To attach the button more securely, repeat the procedure.

• Adjust the stitch width to the distance between the holes in the button.

With scissors, cut the upper and bobbin

threads at the beginning of the stitching, pull the upper thread at the end of the stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it with the bobbin thread.

Twin

needle

Utility Stitches

a Button b Metal plate

Turn the handwheel toward you to check that

the needle correctly goes into the holes of the

button without touching it.

CAUTION

• Make sure the needle does not strike the button during sewing. The needle may break and cause injury.

When button sewing is finished, raise the feed

dog position switch to to raise the feed dogs.

a Feed dog position switch

SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Attaching a 4-Hole Button

Sew the two holes toward the front. Then, raise the presser foot, move the fabric so that the needle goes into the back two holes, and then sew them in the same way.

■ Attaching a Button with a Shank

Pull the shank lever toward you.

a Shank lever

Eyelets

When sewing is finished, pull the two ends of

the upper thread between the button and the fabric, wind them around the shank, and then tie them together.

Tie the ends of the bobbin thread together at

the beginning and end of the stitching on the wrong side of the fabric

Eyelets can be used for making belt holes and other similar applications.

Stitch

Key

a b

Stitch Name

Eyelet

Press , and then attach presser foot “N”.

Press or in the width display or

or in the length display to set the size of

the eyelet.

7 mm

Presser

Foot

For making eyelets, holes on belts, etc.

6 mm 5 mm

Applications

Auto. Manual Auto. Manual

7.0

(1/4)

Lower the needle into the fabric at the

beginning of the stitching, lower the presser foot lever, and then start sewing.

* Reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn at the

end of the stitching.

* If the automatic thread cutting setting is selected

before sewing, the machine will automatically cut the thread at the end of stitching.

Stitch width [mm (inch.)]

7.0 6.0 5.0

(1/4 15/64 3/16)

Stitch length

[mm (inch.)]

7.0

(1/4)

(1/4 15/64 3/16)

7.0 6.0 5.0

Twin

needle

a Starting point of stitching

SEWING THE STITCHES

Use the eyelet punch to cut a hole in the

center of the stitching.

Multi-Directional Sewing (Straight Stitch and Zigzag Stitch)

Use these stitch patterns to attach patches or emblems to pant legs, shirt sleeves, etc.

Memo

Pass the free arm through the tubular piece of fabric, and then sew in the order shown in the illustration.

Pass the free arm through the fabric.

Press , and then attach presser foot “N”.

Memo

For details on the stitch patterns, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

Insert the needle into the fabric at the starting

point of the stitching, and then sew seam 1.

Utility Stitches

Remove the flat bed attachment to enable

free-arm sewing.

a Starting point of stitching

Press , and then sew seam 2.

* The fabric will move sideways, so guide the fabric

with your hands to sew straight.

Press , and then sew seam 3.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Press , and then sew seam 4.

* The fabric will move sideways, so guide the fabric

with your hands to sew straight.

Memo

Zigzag stitches can also be used with multi-directional sewing.

Zipper Insertion

■ Centered Zipper

Use for bags and other such applications.

Press .

* Be sure to select the straight stitch with the middle

needle position.

Press open the seam allowance, align the

seam with the center of the zipper, and then baste the zipper in place.

a Wrong side of fabric b Basting c Zipper teeth

Remove presser foot “J”, and then attach the

pin on the right side of zipper foot “I” to the

presser foot holder.

a Right side b Left side c Needle drop point

Memo

For details on the stitch patterns, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART” at the end of this manual.

Attach presser foot “J”, sew straight stitches

up to the zipper opening, and then sew basting stitches to the top of the fabric.

a Wrong side of fabric b End of zipper opening c Basting d Reverse stitching

CAUTION

• When using zipper foot “I”, make sure the straight stitch, middle needle position is selected. Turn the handwheel to make sure the needle does not strike the presser foot. If another stitch is selected, the needle will strike the presser foot, causing the needle to break and possibly causing injury.

Topstitch around the zipper, and then remove

the basting.

CAUTION

• Make sure the needle does not strike the zipper during sewing. If the needle strikes the zipper, the needle may break, leading to injury.

SEWING THE STITCHES

■ Side Zipper

Use for side zippers on skirts or dresses.

Press .

* Be sure to select the straight stitch with the middle

needle position.

Attach presser foot “J”, sew straight stitches

to the zipper opening, and then sew basting stitches to the edge of the fabric.

Remove presser foot “J”, and then attach the

presser foot holder to the pin on the right side of zipper foot “I”.

a Right side b Left side c Needle drop point

CAUTION

Set the presser foot in the 3 mm (approx.

1/8 inch) margin.

Utility Stitches

b c

a Basting b End of zipper opening c Reverse stitching d Wrong side of fabric

Press the seam allowance open and align the

folded hem along the teeth of the zipper,

while maintaining 3 mm (approx. 1/8 inch) of sewing space.

a Zipper pull tab b Zipper teeth c End of zipper opening d 3 mm (approx. 1/8 inch) e Wrong side of fabric

Starting from the end of the zipper opening,

sew to a point about 50 mm (approx. 2 inches) from the edge of the fabric, then stop the machine.

Pull down the zipper slider, then continue

sewing to the edge of the fabric.

a 3 mm (approx. 1/8 inch) b 50 mm (approx. 2 inch)

CAUTION

• Make sure the needle does not strike the zipper during sewing. If the needle strikes the zipper, the needle may break, leading to injury.

SEWING THE STITCHES

Close the zipper, turn the fabric over so that

the surface faces up, and then baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric.

a Front of garment (wrong side of fabric) b Back of garment (surface of fabric) c Basting d Front of garment (surface of fabric)

Remove the presser foot, and then attach the

pin on the left side of the zipper foot to the

presser foot holder.

a Right side b Left side c Needle drop point

Set the fabric so that the left edge of the

presser foot touches the edge of the zipper teeth.

Sew reverse stitches at the top of the zipper,

then continue sewing.

Stop sewing about 50 mm (approx.

2 inches) from the edge of the fabric, leave the needle in the fabric, and remove the basting stitches.

Open the zipper and sew the rest of the seam.

a Basting b Reverse stitching c 7 to 10 mm (approx. 1/4 to 3/8 inch) d 50 mm (approx. 2 inches)

Chapter 4

Character/ Decorative Stitches

SELECTING STITCH PATTERNS...........................................................88

■ Stitch Selection Screens .......................................................................................................... 88

Selecting Decorative Stitch Patterns/7 mm Decorative Stitch Patterns/Satin Stitch Patterns/

7 mm Satin Stitch Patterns/Cross Stitch Patterns/Utility Decorative Stitch Patterns..............89

Alphabet Patterns...................................................................................................................89

SEWING STITCH PATTERNS ...............................................................91

Sewing Attractive Finishes......................................................................................................91

Basic Sewing ..........................................................................................................................91

Adjusting Patterns ..................................................................................................................92

EDITING STITCH PATTERNS...............................................................94

■ Key Functions ......................................................................................................................... 94

Changing the Pattern Size ......................................................................................................95

Changing the Pattern Length (7 mm Satin Stitch Patterns Only) ............................................95

Creating a Vertical Mirror Image ...........................................................................................95

Creating a Horizontal Mirror Image.......................................................................................95

Selecting a Single/Repeating Pattern......................................................................................96

Changing the Thread Density (Satin Stitch Patterns Only) .....................................................96

COMBINING STITCH PATTERNS........................................................97

Before Combining Patterns ....................................................................................................97

Combining Patterns From Different Categories......................................................................97

Combining Stitch Patterns of Different Sizes..........................................................................99

Combining Stitch Patterns of Different Orientations..............................................................99

Combining Stitch Patterns of Different Lengths ...................................................................100

Creating Step Patterns (7 mm Satin Stitch Patterns Only)....................................................101

■ Examples of Pattern Combinations ....................................................................................... 102

USING THE MEMORY FUNCTION...................................................103

Stitch Data Precautions........................................................................................................103

■ Types of Stitch Data That Can Be Used ................................................................................ 103

■ Computers and Operating Systems with the Following Specifications Can Be Used............. 103

■ Precautions on Using the Computer to Create and Save Data .............................................. 103

■ Trademarks ........................................................................................................................... 103

Saving Stitch Patterns in the Machine’s Memory...................................................103

■ If the Memory Is Full ............................................................................................................ 104

Saving Stitch Patterns to the Computer .................................................................105

Retrieving Stitch Patterns from the Machine’s Memory .......................................................106

Retrieving Stitch Patterns from the Computer......................................................................107

SELECTING STITCH PATTERNS

■ Stitch Selection Screens

Press to display the screen shown below.

a Decorative stitch patterns b 7 mm decorative stitch patterns c Satin stitch patterns d 7 mm satin stitch patterns e Cross stitch patterns f Utility decorative stitch pattern s g Alphabet patterns (gothic font) h Alphabet patterns (handwriting font) i Alphabet patterns (outline style) j Patterns saved in the machine’s memory

(see page 106)

k Patterns saved on the computer (see page 107)

Press to display the previous or next page.

* The patterns in screens b, d and f have a stitch width of 7 mm or less. Both the stitch length and width can be adjusted.

a Decorative stitch

patterns

f Utility decorative

stitch patterns

b 7 mm decorative

stitch patterns

g Alphabet patterns

(gothic font)

Satin stitch patterns

h Alphabet patterns

(handwriting font)

d 7 mm satin stitch

patterns

i Alphabet patterns

(outline style)

e Cross stitch

patterns

Note

When the screen is locked ( ), no key other than and the keys can be operated.

Selecting Decorative Stitch Patterns/ 7 mm Decorative Stitch Patterns/ Satin Stitch Patterns/ 7 mm Satin Stitch Patterns/Cross Stitch Patterns/Utility Decorative Stitch Patterns

Press , and then press the key for the

category containing the pattern that you want to sew.

SELECTING STITCH PATTERNS

To combine patterns, select the next pattern.

* Press to check the selected pattern

combination.

* If the wrong pattern was selected, press to

erase the pattern, and then select the new stitch pattern.

Select a stitch pattern that you want to sew.

* Press to display the next page.

* Press to display the previous page.

* Press to return to the screen of pattern

categories.

Alphabet Patterns

Three alphabet patterns are available in different styles. The procedure for selecting a character is the same with all styles.

Press , and then press the key for the

character style that you want to sew.

Character/Decorative Stitches

→ An image of the selected stitch pattern is displayed

below the symbol of the appropriate presser foot.

SELECTING STITCH PATTERNS

Press to display a selection

screen of characters, and then select a character. Repeat this step until you have selected all of the characters.

* If a wrong character was selected, press to

erase the character, and then select the new character.

* To select a different character style, press ,

and then select the new character style.

* Press to check the selected characters.

Press .

→ An image of the selected characters is displayed

below the symbol of the appropriate presser foot.

Example: To select “Bus”

Press .

Press , then .

→ “Bus” appears.

* A maximum of 70 characters can be combined.

SEWING STITCH PATTERNS

Sewing Attractive Finishes

Note

• To achieve the best results when sewing character/decorative stitches, check the table below for the proper fabri c/ needle/thread combinations.

• Other factors, such as the type or thickness of the fabric being sewn or the type of sta bilizer material used, also affect the stitching. Therefore, be sure to sew a few trial stitches before sewing your project.

• Since shrinkage or bunched stitches may result when satin stitches are sewn, be sure to affix stabilizer material to the fabric.

• While sewing, guide the fabric with your hands so that it will be fed straight.

Fabric When sewing on stre tch fabrics, lightweight fabrics, or fa brics with coa rse w ea v es , at tach sta biliz er on the wrong side

Thread #50 - #6 0 Needle With li ghtweight, regular, or stretch fabrics: the Ball point need le (golden colored)

Presser foot Monogramming foot “N”.

Basic Sewing

of the fabric. If you do not wish to do so, place the fabric on a thin paper such as tracing paper.

a Fabric b Stabilizer

With heavyweight fabrics: home sewing machine needle 90/14

Using another presser foot may give inferior results.

Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew reinforcement stitches, and

c Thin paper

then press the “Start/Stop” button to start

Select a stitch pattern.

Attach presser foot “N”.

Place the fabric under the presser foot, pull the

upper thread under the presser foot and to the

sewing.

side, and then lower the presser foot lever.

Character/Decorative Stitches

CAUTION

• When sewing 7 mm satin stitch patterns and the stitches are bunched, lengthen the stitch length. If you continue sewing when the stitches are bunched, the needle may bend or break (see “Adjusting the Stitch Length” on page 42).

Memo

If the fabric is pulled or pushed during sewing, the pattern may not be sewn correctly. In addition, depending on the pattern, there may be movement to the left and right as well as to the front and back. Therefore, guide the fabric with your hands so that it will be fed straight.

SEWING STITCH PATTERNS

Press the “Start/Stop” button to stop the

machine, and then press the “Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew reinforcement stitches.

Adjusting Patterns

Depending on the type and thickness of the fabric being sewn, the sewing speed, whether or not stabilizer material is used, etc., the desired result may not be

achieved. If this occurs, press , and then perform

the following adjustment using the same sewing conditions as those used for your project. If the pattern

is still misaligned after making adjustments with

Memo

• When sewing character sti tch patte rns, the mac hine automatically sews reinforcement stitche s at the end of the stitching, then stops (The machine is automatically set to sew reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of each character.)

• After sewing is finished, trim any excess thread.

selected, adjust each pattern separately.

Press , and then press on P. 6 of

the screen.

Attach presser foot “N”, and then sew the

pattern.

Note

When sewing some patterns, the needle will stop in the raised position while the fabric is fed due to the operation of the needle bar separation mechanism which is used in this machine. At such t imes, a clicki ng sound different from the sound generated during sewing will be heard. This sound is normal and is not the sign of a malfunction.

Compare the sewn pattern with the following

illustration.

SEWING STITCH PATTERNS

Press .

If the pattern is bunched together:

Press in the FINE ADJUST VERTI. display. Each press of the key increases the value and lengthens

the pattern.

Sew the pattern again. If the pattern still is

not sewn correctly, adjust it again. Continue making adjustments until the pattern is sewn correctly.

Memo

You can sew with the setting screen on the display.

After the pattern is sewn correctly, quit

making adjustments. Press to return to the previous screen.

Character/Decorative Stitches

If the pattern is stretched:

Press in the FINE ADJUST VERTI. display. Each press of the key decreases the value and shortens

the pattern.

If the pattern is skewed to the left:

Press in the FINE ADJUST HORIZ. display. Each press of the key increases the value and moves the

pattern to the right.

If the pattern is skewed to the right:

Press in the FINE ADJUST HORIZ. display. Each press of the key decreases the value and moves the

pattern to the left.

EDITING STITCH PATTERNS

Using the editing functions, you can change the patterns in a variety of ways, such as resizing them or flipping them to create a mirror image.

Memo

Depending on the pattern that is selected, some editing funct ions may not be available.

f e c d

l k

■ Key Functions

No. Key Name Function Page

a Screen lock key Press this key to lock the screen.

b Image check key Press this key to check an image of the selected patterns (characters). 89, 90

c Automatic

reinforcement stitch key

d Automatic thread

cutting key

e Horizontal mirror image

key

f Vertical mirror image

key

g Needle mode selection

key (single/twin)

h Elongation key If a 7 mm satin stitch pattern is selected, press this key to select from five settings

i Single/repeat sewing

key

j Stitch settings key Press this key to change the stitch width, stitch length and thread tension for the

k Delete key If the wrong pattern was accidentally selected, press this key to erase it. If patterns

l Memory key Press this key to save the pattern combination. 103

When the screen is locked, the various settings, such as the stitch width and stitch length, are locked and cannot be changed. Press this key again to unlock the settings.

Press this key to select the automatic re inforcement stitching setting. If you select this setting before sewing, the machine will automatically sew reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of stitching. Press this key again to cancel the setting.

Press this key to select the automatic thread cutting setting. If you select this setting before sewing, the machine will automatica lly cut the thread at the end of stitching. Press this key again to cancel the setting.

Press this key to create a horizontal mirror imag e of the selected stitch pattern. 95

Press this key to create a vertical mirror im age of the selected stitch pattern. 95

Press this key to select the setting for twin needle sewing. Each tim e this key is pressed, the setting switches between that for single needle sewing and for twin needle sewing.

for changing the pattern length without changing the zigzag width or stitch length. Press this key to switch between sewing the pattern a single ti me or repeatedly. 96

selected pattern. Normally, the machine has default settings.

89, 90 have been combined, each press of this key erases the last pattern in the combination.

m Size key Press this key after selecting a patte rn to change the size of the pa ttern (large or

small).

n Thr e ad density key Press this key after selecting a pattern to change the stitching density of the

pattern.

EDITING STITCH PATTERNS

Changing the Pattern Size

After selecting a stitch pattern, press until the desired size is selected.

Memo

• Stitch patterns entered after the pattern size was changed are added at the selected size until it is changed again.

• You cannot change the size of stitch patterns once they have been combined.

Actual size

Creating a Vertical Mirror Image

After selecting a stitch pattern, press to flip the pattern vertically.

Creating a Horizontal Mirror Image

After selecting a stitch pattern, press to flip the pattern horizontally.

Character/Decorative Stitches

Changing the Pattern Length (7 mm Satin Stitch Patterns Only)

If 7 mm satin stitch patterns are selected, the pattern length can be changed without changing the zigzag width or stitch length. After selecting a stitch pattern,

press to select one of the five settings available.

EDITING STITCH PATTERNS

Selecting a Single/Repeating Pattern

Press to select whether the pattern is sewn repeatedly or once.

Changing the Thread Density (Satin Stitch Patterns Only)

After selecting a stitch pattern, press until the desired stitching density is selected.

Memo

If you press while sewing, the key changes to

and the machine will sew one copy of the

pattern, then automatically stop.

CAUTION

• If the stitches bunch when thread density is

changed to , return the thread density to

. If you continue sewing when the stitches

are bunched, the needle may bend or break.

Memo

• Stitch patterns entered after the stitching density was changed are added at the selected density until it is changed again.

• You cannot change the stitching density of stitch patterns once they have been combined.

COMBINING STITCH PATTERNS

Stitch patterns, such as character stitches, satin stitches, cross stitches and decorative stitches, can be combined in a wide variety of ways. In addition, you can create interesting variations by combining stitch patterns of different categories, sizes, and orientations.

Before Combining Patterns

Note

• When stitch patterns are combined, the machine is automatically set to sew the pattern once. To repeatedly sew the combined stitch patterns, combine the patterns, and then press .

• You cannot change settings (such as the size and orientation) for stitch patterns once they have been combined. To resize or reorient the patterns, specify the settings for each pattern as it is added to the combination.

Combining Patterns From Different Categories

Example:

Press .

Character/Decorative Stitches

Press .

→ The screen of pattern categories appears.

COMBINING STITCH PATTERNS

Press .

Memo

• Press to erase the last pattern en tered. Patterns are erased one at a tim e .

• If the entire combined pattern cannot be displayed, press

to view an image of the pattern. Press

to return to the previous screen.

To repeatedly sew the pattern combination,

press so that it appears as .

→ The image of the pattern appears.

COMBINING STITCH PATTERNS

Combining Stitch Patterns of Different Sizes

Example:

Press .

Press again, and then press so that

it appears as .

→ The second pattern is displayed in the smaller size.

To repeatedly sew the pattern combination,

press so that it appears as .

Character/Decorative Stitches

Press .

→ The larger size pattern appears.

→ The combination appears as a repeating pattern.

Combining Stitch Patterns of Different Orientations

Example:

Baby Lock Esante BLN Instruction and Reference Guide

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual