Autostart AS-3472 Installation Guide

TWO-WAY 6-BUTTON LCD AUTOMATIC/MANUAL

TRANSMISSION REMOTE STARTER

AS-3472TW-FM

Installation Guide

Notice

The manufacturer will accept no responsibility for any electrical damage resulting from improper installation of the product, be that either damage to the vehicle itself or to the unit. This unit must be installed by a certified technician using all safety devices supplied. Please note that this guide has been written for properly trained Autostart technicians: a certain level of skills and knowledge is therefore assumed. Please review the installation guide carefully before beginning any work.

Warning

Before installing the unit, if installing on a vehicle with a manual transmission, test that the OEM Door Switch contacts of the vehicle work well, and that the Parking Brake system operates properly. If installing on a vehicle with an automatic transmission, test that the vehicle does not start when the gearshift lever is in the “Drive” position. If it starts in gear, reset the remote starter to manual transmission.

DOC. 1.00 - AS-3472TW-FM - - July 3, 2008 - - MO - Made in China

Table of Contents

Introduction ............................................................ 2

Included in the Kit .................................................. 3

Installation Tools.................................................... 3

Installation Points to Remember .......................... 3

Installation Order ................................................... 5

A basic introduction to the Relay......................... 7

Harness Description ............................................ 11

6-pin Main Ignition Harness (a.k.a. The Primary

harness) ............................................................ 11

5-pin Secondary Harness (a.k.a. the secondary

harness) ............................................................ 12

12-pin Accessories Harness ............................. 12

3-pin Harness.................................................... 14

Additional Ports ................................................. 14

Entering Programming Mode ............................. 15

The Programming Assistance Button (a.k.a.

PAB)....................................................................... 15

Manual or Automatic Transmission ................... 16

Transmitter Programming Procedure................ 16

Entering Programming Options ......................... 16

Programming Options ......................................... 17

Virtual Tach System............................................. 18

Optional Time Delay Adjustment in Virtual Tach

System .............................................................. 18

Multi-speed Tach Programming ......................... 19

Other Features of the Module............................. 19

Tach jumper settings......................................... 19

Clutch Bypass ................................................... 20

Installation-programmable Features.................. 21

Ignition-controlled Door Locks .......................... 21

Secure Lock ...................................................... 21

Starter Kill Arming Mode ................................... 22

Lock Pulse Duration .......................................... 22

Introduction

This Guide contains all information pertinent to the installation. Most (if not all) features are grouped in the User Guide. Therefore, should you need information on a feature, please refer to the User Guide.

Flashing LED..................................................... 22

Safe Start .......................................................... 23

Engine Run Time .............................................. 23

Idle Mode........................................................... 23

Turbo Mode....................................................... 24

Cold Weather Mode .......................................... 24

Valet Mode ........................................................ 25

“Home Valet™” Mode ....................................... 26

Panic Mode ....................................................... 27

The AUX 1 / 2

The AUX 2 Timed Output.................................. 27

The AUX 3 / Trunk or Sunroof Output .............. 27

Programmable External Trigger........................ 27

OEM-Style Alarm .............................................. 27

Ready Mode Option .......................................... 28

Bypass............................................................... 28

Multi-car Operation............................................ 28

LCD Transmitter Operation and Confirmations

(Second Car Control) ........................................ 29

Basic Operations.......................................... 29

Start/Stop While in Safe Start Mode............ 29

Missing a Start or a Stop Confirmation ........30

Multi-Level Features (default state) ................... 30

Accessing the Multi-Level Features and Other

Transmitter Functions ....................................... 31

Horn Honk Timing ............................................. 31

Resetting the module to default features.......... 32

Closing Up ............................................................ 32

Testing................................................................... 32

Troubleshooting Poor Transmitting Range ...... 33

Diagnostics – Parking Light Flash Table .......... 34

Troubleshooting Q & A........................................ 35

Unlock ..................................... 27

P. 2 Installation Guide

Included in the Kit

Before beginning the installation, please review the Installation Guide —particularly the Wiring Diagram and the Programming Options. Note: It is very important that you familiarize yourself with the programming and operation of the

system, even if you have already installed a similar system in the past. There are many great new features you may overlook if you do not read the Guide–you would not maximize the potential of the unit. Prior to the installation, make sure that all the hardware components required to install the system are in the box.

The following is a list of components included in the kit:

• 1 – Control Unit

• 1 – Six-button LCD transmitter

• 1 – Five-button companion transmitter

• 1 – Antenna interconnect cable

• 1 – 6-pin main ignition harness

• 1 – 5-pin secondary harness

• 1 – 3-pin secondary harness

• 1 – 12-pin accessories harness

• 1 – Hood pin-switch

• 1 – Warning label

• 1 – User Guide

• 1 – Quick Installation Guide

Please note: the plug-in valet button is not included with this model.

Installation Tools

Here is a list of basic tools and supplies you will need to test and install safely:

• Digital multimeter (DMM), neon

'trouble' light that is carpet safe, fender protector, carpet protector

• Soldering iron, solder, electrical tape,

wire tie straps, split loom, diodes, resistors, relays

• Wire cutters, wire strippers, wire

crimpers, needle nose pliers

• Sharp knife, panel poppers, various

screw drivers

• Socket set, wrench set, drill with drill

bits, plastic fish tool (for fishing wires through the firewall)

Installation Points to Remember

♦ On vehicles with a manual transmission,

always ensure that all doors will get the unit out of ready mode. Switch the wire used so that it is triggered by all Doors. ♦ Make sure that the Parking brake and Door switch contacts work properly. ♦ When working on a vehicle, always leave a window open. ♦ Never leave the keys in the car. Leave them on a workbench with a window rolled down. ♦ If possible, remove courtesy light fuse to prevent battery drain.

♦ The Programming Assistance Button (a.k.a. PAB): The PAB is mounted on the

side of the unit. This push button mimics the hood-pin switch in order to avoid having to get out of the vehicle and pressing the hood-pin switch. The PAB will work only when the hood is up. ♦ Inspect vehicle for any body damage or electrical problems.

♦ Always solder and tape all connections.

♦ Keep the transceiver away from other types of antennas (GPS/OnStar®). ♦ Never install the control unit where it could interfere with normal operation or obstruct service technicians. ♦ Always use a grommet when running wires into the engine compartment.

♦ Never run wires through bare or sharp

metal. ♦ Do not disconnect the battery on vehicles equipped with air bags and anti-theft radios. ♦ Never ground the control unit to the steering column. ♦ Make sure that all the switches and controls operate properly. ♦ Verify that the vehicle starts and idles properly. ♦ Make sure that all safety equipment is installed: the valet button (if installed), the hood switch, and the warning label.

Installation Guide P. 3

♦ When wiring in parallel, make sure to isolate each connection with a diode in order to avoid feedback and possible damage.

Examples:

Wiring a clutch bypass and a transponder module to the ground out when running wire: At the junction point,

where Ground Out when running “splits” and goes to each device, a diode is inserted on each of those lines.

Multiple or separate door pin connections:

When joining all door pins together to the door pin input wire of the module, each wire must be isolated with a diode to prevent feedback. N.B.: The above examples reflect common situations where diodes are used to isolate. Please note that there are numerous other scenarios where diode isolation is required.

♦ Always make sure that any external relays or modules added to the Remote Starter module are properly fused and diode isolated. ♦ When testing the Shock Sensor, never test on glass with an opened hand, and never hit glass hard enough as to break it. When testing on metal or plastic, make sure the testing does not result in damage to the vehicle (i.e.: dents, broken glass, damaged trims, etc.). ♦ Vehicles equipped with daytime running lights may not allow the installer to view certain programming results since the daytime running lights do no go out (Note: The Parking Light output relay in the module gives two “clicks” per flash, 1 “click” for ON and 1 “click” for OFF). ♦ Parking Light flashes referred to in this manual refer to the Parking Light output of the module and not that of the vehicle.

P. 4 Installation Guide

Installation Order

The following is a suggested order for the Installation procedure. It is intended as a guide for novices, to help make the process of installing a remote starter module easier. Time is wasted by rewiring the module when mistakes are made. Also, the neatness of the installation is lessened every time the module is taken down and the wiring is “corrected”. A messy installation is harder to trouble shoot if there are problems later on. The actual “how to install” is not covered by this list; the order of the installation process is the focus.

− Before you get started, make sure the vehicle starts and idles properly with the Ignition key, and

that the electrical system is not compromised in any way.

− After deciding what options are to be added to the basic installation, you can start by looking for

the wires that will be needed.

− Remember to be careful when removing the panels that are covering the wires you are

searching for.

− Once all of the wires have been found, they should be tested to verify that they are the correct

ones you will need for the installation.

− When all the wires pass the test, they can be stripped to expose the wire (over one inch of

plastic should be removed).

− It is always better to strip more than you need. A common way cold solder joints happen is when

not enough plastic is stripped off the vehicle's wire, so during the soldering process the plastic from the wire melts and flows into the connection instead of the solder.

− Decide where the module is going to be mounted. It is ALWAYS mounted inside the passenger

compartment, and never in the engine bay. Under the driver's side of the dash there is usually enough room for the module to fit. Once the location has been decided, proceed to the next step.

− Mount the antenna and run the cable to the location where the module is going to be mounted.

The antenna will get the best range when it is high up in the vehicle, and not obstructed by metal. The most common choice is the center of the windshield at the top, behind the rear view mirror, and at least one inch below the tint strip. Another location should be used if there is another antenna in this location, compass, or other device that may interfere with the range of the start module.

− Mount the Valet switch and LED (if applicable). Make sure they are close enough to the

selected module mounting location so they will plug in when the module is mounted. If the wires are too short, they will have to be extended.

− In the engine compartment, mount the hood pin, in a suitable location. Search along the firewall

for an OEM grommet you run the wires through. If you cannot find an OEM grommet to use, you will have to drill a hole. The hole must be big enough for all of your wires to fit through. To be safe drill the hole out a little bigger so the wires will not get squished. We recommend using an aftermarket grommet whenever you drill a hole through the firewall. This will protect the wires from rubbing against the bare metal and possibly shorting out. If you are installing an alarm / starter combo module, mount the siren in the engine compartment at this time.

− The next step is to pre-wire the module. This is done on your work bench, and not in the vehicle.

Connect any external modules and relays that may be needed for you install. Tape or tie-strap wires that are going to be routed to the same areas of the vehicle. This will keep things neat

Installation Guide P. 5

when the module is in the vehicle. The fuses on the power wires should be removed during the pre-wire stage. The fuses will not be put back in until the powering stage of the installation.

− Once the pre-wiring is finished, the module can be brought into the vehicle. Before the module is

mounted, connect the antenna, the valet switch, shock sensor (if applicable) and LED to the module. With everything connected to the module, it can now be mounted in the vehicle. Use tie-straps to secure it to the vehicle. Make sure the module and harnessing do not interfere with any moving parts, and do not obstruct access to diagnostic ports, or fuse boxes. It should be up in the dash, high enough that it won't get kicked by accident.

− Once the module is secured, route the wires to the previously stripped wires they correspond to

(leave the engine compartment wires for last). Tie strap them up as you go, so they do not interfere with anything else.

− When all of the passenger compartment wires are ran to their locations, you can route the

engine compartment wires through the firewall.

− With the engine compartment wires out the way, you can begin making the connections in the

passenger compartment. Strip about an inch of wire past where the connection is going to be made. This extra bit of wire is wrapped around the exposed OEM wire to secure in place while you are soldering.

− When all of the wires have been connected, solder the connections. When the solder has

cooled, the connections are then individually taped up, to isolate them.

− Return to the engine bay and route the start module wires to their corresponding connections.

− Solder the engine compartment wire once the connections are made. When the solder has

cooled, the connections are then individually taped up, to isolate them.

− Use your DMM to verify that your ground location is good before grounding the module.

− The last step before programming is to power up the module. Replace the power fuses on the

power wire fuse holders. The module will flash the Park lights twice to confirm the power-up.

− If you are installing an alarm / starter combo module, the siren will be sounding at this point.

Place the module into Valet mode to silence the siren. Take the module out of valet mode to continue the programming (note: the module default programming is passive arming; after exiting valet mode, the alarm will start the countdown for passive arming. You have 30 seconds to begin the remote control programming procedure, before the module rearms).

• Program the remote control

• Program the tach signal

• Change the programming of the options, if necessary

• Test the module's operations

• If all of the testing is successful, the installation is completed and the vehicle can be put

back together.

P. 6 Installation Guide

A basic introduction to the Relay

What is a relay?

A device that responds to a small current or voltage change by activating switches or other devices in an electric circuit. An electromagnetic switch, remote-controlled switch, a switching device.

Why are Relays used?

Relays can have several purposes in remote car starter installations. They are used mainly for isolation, inversion, interruption, strengthening current, and for powering multiple wires from one

source SAFELY.

How does it work?

The basic relay consists of a coil and a set of contacts. The most common relay mechanism is electromagnetic. When voltage is applied to the coil, current passes through the wire and creates a magnetic field. This magnetic field pulls the contacts together and holds them there until the current flow in the coil has stopped.

Relays come in all varieties and types, but for the applications that concern us, we will concentrate on the Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) 12 Volts relay.

Naming Convention:

Usually the relay’s manufacturer will include an electrical diagram on the relay displaying the role of each terminal and how they interact with each other. These terminal numbers are standard, and can be used with any SPDT relay.

85 & 86: The Coil. These inputs energize the coil when one is +12 Volts, and the other is Negative. They are usually non-polarized, so it does not matter which one is positive (+) or negative (-).

87: Normally Open (N/O). When the coil is energized, 87 is connected to 30.

87A: Normally Closed (N/C). When the coil is at rest, 87A is connected to 30.

30: Common. When the relay is at rest, 30 is connected to 87A. When the coil is energized, it is

then moved and makes contact with 87 (note: in a SPDT relay, 30 can never be connected to 87 and 87A at the same time; 30 is connected to either 87 OR 87A)

What happens: When there is no voltage across the COIL (terminals 85 and 86), the relay's movable contact ARM (connected to terminal 30) is held, by SPRING tension, against terminal 87a (normally closed circuit). When 12 volts is applied to the COIL (terminals 85 and 86), the ARM (connected to terminal 30) is pulled in by the electromagnet (COIL) so that it physically connects to terminal 87 (normally open circuit) Remember, there is no polarity on a relay’s coil. This means that you may apply positive from the battery to either terminal 85 OR 86, and then Ground the OTHER terminal to activate the relay. In other words, you may use either a positive or negative trigger to energize the relay. Keep in mind that when the relay is energized, if the positive OR the ground connection on the coil is broken, the ARM switches the connection between 30 back from 87 to 87a.

Quenching Diodes:

It was said earlier that you energize a relay by applying positive from the battery to either 85 OR 86 and grounding the other terminal. This is not absolutely true: some relays are “polarized” if they have a quenching/suppression diode (a diode installed between the coil terminals 85 and 86, could be internal or external). To activate the coil on this type of relay, make sure that the +12 Volts trigger is on the same terminal of the relay as the Cathode (- or striped side) of the

Installation Guide P. 7

quenching/suppression diode, and that the Negative trigger is on the same terminal of the relay as the Anode (+ or non-striped side) of the quenching/ suppression diode.

When a relay’s coil is energized, a magnetic field is created and energy is stored in the coil. When power is removed from the coil, the magnetic field collapses. This causes a Reverse Voltage to be generated and can sometimes reach 200 volts. A quenching diode absorbs this reverse voltage spike.

A closer look at a relay:

Now that you know what the main inscriptions are on the relay, take a look on the side, and you will see another inscription: i.e. (12 VDV, 40/ 30 A)

12 VDC: This indicates the coil voltage rating. For an Automotive relay, it's usually 12 Volts DC.

40/ 30 A: This indicates the current carrying capability of the contacts 30, 87, & 87A.

40: Indicates that the normally closed circuit (30 and 87a) can safely handle a maximum of 40

amps of current.

30: Indicates that the normally open circuit (30 and 87) can safely handle a maximum of 30 amps of current.

Examples: The following examples demonstrate some of the most common uses for relays: isolation, inversion, interruption, strengthening current, and for powering multiple wires from one source SAFELY.

Powering multiple wires from one source safely: Example: Powering a second Ignition

Problem: You need to power Multiple Ignition wires to remote start the vehicle, but your module

only has one Ignition output available.

Solution: You will need to add a second ignition relay to power the second ignition wire. (Jumping Ignition 1 to Ignition 2 is NEVER recommended. Always use a relay. The vehicle circuits are Isolated for a reason; the wiring of the remote star module should reflect this.)

The relay connections: 85: Connects in parallel to the Ignition 1 output from the remote start module. This becomes the

positive side of the coil.

86: Connects to the Ground Out when Running wire from the remote start module. This becomes the negative side of the coil.

87: Connected to a Fused +12 Volts source that is capable of supplying power for the vehicle's second ignition wire. This becomes the source of power for the 2

ignition wire.

87A: No connection. This terminal is not used in this application.

30: Connects to the vehicle's second ignition wire. This becomes the output of the 2

ignition

relay.

Comments: The relay is only energized when the vehicle is running by remote start. When started with the Key, the relay is not energized and the integrity of the stock system has been preserved.

Isolation: Example: Isolating a Parking light output

P. 8 Installation Guide

Problem: Some vehicle circuits need to be isolated from feedback. In some cases, when a vehicle is remote started, feedback occurs on a circuit and powers another device or switch that was not intended to be powered during the remote starts. The following example will be a Positive (+) Parking Light circuit that feeds back and activates the windshield wipers during remote starts.

Solution: When power is applied to the OEM Parking light wire, it back feeds through the parking light switch and activates the wipers. Where the connection was made from the start modules' Parking light output and the vehicle's parking light circuit, the OEM parking light wire is cut to isolate the parking light switch and the actual parking lights. A Relay is added to the parking light circuit so that power from the remote start module is only sent to the parking lights and not the parking light switch.

The relay connections: 85: Connects to the +12 Volt Parking light output from the remote start module. This becomes the

positive side of the coil.

86: Connects to a Negative source, i.e. the spot where the remote start module is grounded. This becomes the negative side of the coil.

87: Connects to the +12 Volt Parking light output from the remote start module. This becomes the power supply for the vehicle's parking lights. The OEM parking light wire is cut. The side that is still connected to the switch becomes the “Switch Side”. The side that is still connected to the Parking lights becomes “Parking Lights Side”.

87A: Connects to the “Switch Side” of the cut OEM parking light wire.

30: Connects to the “Parking Light Side” of the cut OEM parking light wire.

Comments: When the relay is at rest, the OEM Parking light wire is connected (through 87A & 30)

and allowed to operate normally. When the remote start module powers the Parking lights, the OEM parking light wire is opened, and power from the remote start module is sent only to the actual Parking Lights (from 87 through 30).

Inversion: Example: Activating a Positive Trunk release switch

Problem: The vehicle's power trunk release switch is activated by a positive (+) pulse, and the

remote start module's Trunk output is negative (-).

Solution: A relay is used to invert the negative signal from the start module to a positive signal before it is sent to the OEM switch.

The relay connections: 85: Connects to the start module's Trunk release output wire. This becomes the negative side of

the coil.

86: Connects to a fused +12 Volts source. This becomes the positive side of the coil.

87: Connects to a fused +12 Volts source. This becomes the supply for the positive trunk release.

87A: No connection. This terminal is not used in this application.

30: Connects to the OEM trunk wire in the vehicle.

Comments: At rest, the trunk switch is allowed to operate normally. When the Trunk button on the

remote is pressed, the negative Trunk output from the remote start module triggers the relay. When

Installation Guide P. 9

the relay is activated, +12 volts from 87 is sent through 30, and the OEM trunk switch is activated, by the positive pulse.

Interruption: Example: Creating a Starter Kill relay to prevent unauthorized starting of the vehicle.

Problem: The OEM starter circuit needs to be disabled only when theft is attempted.

Solution: A relay is used to interrupt the OEM starter wire. There is an output on the remote start

module especially for this purpose (Starter Kill output).

The relay connections: 85: Connects to the Starter Kill output wire from the remote start module. This becomes the

negative trigger for the coil.

86: Connects to the vehicle's Ignition wire. This becomes the positive trigger for the coil.

87: No connection. This terminal is not used in this application. The vehicle's OEM start wire is cut.

The side of the wire that is still connected to the Ignition switch becomes the “Key Side” of the starter wire. The side of the wire that is still connected to the starter motor becomes the “Starter Side” of the starter wire.

87A: Connects to the “Key Side” of the cut OEM starter wire.

30: Connects to the “Starter Side” of the cut OEM start wire.

Comments: At rest the relay is not active, and +12 volts on the starter wire passes through the

relay (through 87A & 30) normally. The Starter Kill output wire on the remote start module is activated when the LOCK button is pressed on the remote control. When a theft attempt happens, and the thief powers the Ignition circuit (to hot wire the vehicle), and the Starter Kill was ARMED (by the LOCK button on the remote), the starter kill relay activates. The OEM start wire is now open, (does not make connection) because 30 is no longer connected to 87A, and the vehicle is unable to start.

Strengthening current: Example: Strengthening an output

Problem: A vehicle has a negative (-) trigger Trunk release wire. The module has a negative Trunk

release output wire. The remote start module is unable to supply the necessary current to activate the vehicle's Trunk release wire.

Solution: A Relay is used to provide the necessary negative current to activate the vehicle's Trunk release wire.

The relay connections: 85: Connects to the start module's Trunk release wire output. This becomes the Negative trigger

for the coil.

86: Connects to a fused +12 Volt source.

87: Connects to a Negative source, i.e. the spot where the remote start module is grounded. This

becomes the supply for activating the vehicle's Trunk release wire.

87A: No connection. This terminal is not used in this application.

30: Connects to the vehicle's Trunk release wire.

Comments: At rest the relay is not active and the vehicle's Trunk release switch is allowed to

operate normally. When the Trunk release button is pressed on the remote control, the start

P. 10 Installation Guide

module's Trunk release output activates the relay. The ground signal is sent from 87 through 30 to the vehicle's Trunk release wire activating the switch and opening the trunk.

Harness Description

6-pin Main Ignition Harness (a.k.a. The Primary harness)

The two Red wires are the power inputs for the module; the other wires are for recreating the actions of the Ignition switch during remote starts. On most vehicles these wires are connected at the vehicle's Ignition switch.

Wire Description

Connect to the largest 12 V supply wire at the Ignition harness. Ensure that the OEM power wire is fused for more than 30 A. NOTE: Certain new vehicles have no suitable 12 volts source at the IGNITION switch (the 12 Volt wire is too small to supply the necessary current). In this case, the fuse box, or the B+ connection on the battery is recommended. If wires need to be

extended, you must protect them with additional fuses connected at the entry source.

Connect to the Starter wire of the vehicle (at the should have +12 V with the Ignition Key in the Crank position only.

extended, you must protect them with additional fuses connected at the entry source.

Connect to Ignition wire of the vehicle. The source wire should have +12 V with the Ignition Key in the Ignition On (Run) and Crank positions. Warning: some vehicles have more than one IGN wire at the IGNITION switch for powering the heater blower motor. Use the 5th relay (pin F) and extra relays to power up any extra IGN. wires if necessary. DO NOT JUMP WIRES at the IGNITION switch, this will compromise the OEM electrical system. If wires need to be extended, you must protect them with additional fuses connected at the entry source.

This wire is for powering the heater blower motor. It is usually classified as an Acc. (no power in the crank position.) if it tests as an then power it as an Warning: some vehicles have more than one ACC wire at the IGNITION switch for powering the heater blower motor. Use the 5th relay (pin F) and extra relays to power up any extra ACC. wires if necessary. DO NOT JUMP WIRES at the IGNITION switch, this will compromise the OEM electrical system.

This high-current output can be used to power a

2ND STARTER WIRE. See jumper settings on page 19 for correct output.

Additional IGNITIONS, ACCESSORIES, or STARTER WIRES must use external relays.

DO NOT JUMP WIRES at the IGNITION switch, this will compromise the OEM electrical

system.

IGNITION (5th relay, or extra relay).

IGNITION switch). The source wire

IGNITION (power in the crank pos.)

2nd IGNITION or a 2nd ACCESSORY or a

(+) 12 V

VIOLET (+) 30 A

(+) 12 V

(+) 30 A

ignition

ORANGE

(+) 30 A

Accessories

PINK/WHITE

(+) 30 A 5th

relay output

RED

Battery

starter output

RED

Battery

PINK

output

Installation Guide P. 11

5-pin Secondary Harness (a.k.a. the secondary harness)

This harness has the remaining wires used in basic remote starter installations, positive parking light output, the safety shut down inputs, and the ground wire for the module.

Wire Description

(–) Chassis

ground input

VIOLET/WHITE

Tachometer

switch input

Parking Light

BLACK

(AC)

input

GRAY

(-) Hood

BROWN

(+) brake

WHITE

(+) 12 V

output

This wire must be connected to bare, unpainted metal (the Chassis or true Body ground).

This wire tells the module if the Engine is running or not. It requires at least 1.8 volts (AC) and 1.5 Hz (or faster) at idle. Common Tach references are: the negative side of an injector, the negative side of an Ignition Coil, Camshaft sensor, Crankshaft sensor or the Engine Control Module (ECM). NOTE: A Tach signal that is too low will cause the module to “over crank” and a Tach signal that is too high will cause the module to “under crank”.

For safety reasons, this wire must be connected to the hood pin provided in the box or to the OE hood pin. This input will disable or shut down the Remote Starter when the hood is opened. It can also be used for programming purposes.

This wire must be connected to the brake Light switch of the vehicle. The wire should be +12 V only while the brake pedal is pressed. This input will shut down the Remote Starter if the brake pedal is pressed. It is also used for programming and therefore it is essential that it is installed.

This wire provides a +12 V output (15 A max.) and must be connected to the Parking Light wire that tests +12 V when the Parking lights are Note: Ensure that the voltage does not vary when the dimmer control switch is turned up or down. If this is the case, it is not the right wire.

There is also a negative Parking Light output on the 3-pin side connector. Only one of these two different outputs needs to be connected.

ON.

12-pin Accessories Harness

This harness has the remaining wires used in some remote starter installations as well as the optional user convenience outputs.

Wire Description

RED/WHITE

(–) Trunk

or AUX 3 output

LIGHT GREEN

(–) Lock

BLUE

(–) Unlock

LIGHT

GREEN/WHITE

(–) Arm

LIGHT

GREEN/BLACK

(–) Disarm

500 mA negative output. This can be used to control trunk release (1-sec. pulse) or to operate as a constant output as long as the TRUNK button is held pressed (for Sunroof or Window close).

Programmable 500 mA 1/10-sec., 7/10-sec. or 4-sec. negative output.

Programmable 500mA 1/10-sec., 7/10-sec., 4-sec. or 1/4-sec. double-pulse negative output.

Max 500 mA negative output when the doors are locked by remote control. This wire will provide a negative output 1/4 sec. before the lock pulse, and go off 1/8 sec after it. Note: The system will also give a rearm pulse on this wire after remote-start shutdown.

Max 500 mA 1-sec. negative pulse when the Doors are unlocked by remote control. Connect to the OEM Disarm wire of the vehicle. Note: The system will also give a disarm pulse on this wire before remote starts.

P. 12 Installation Guide

+ 25 hidden pages