Autostart AS-2775 User Manual
AUTOMATIC / MANUAL TRANSMISSION
5-BUTTON
REMOTE STARTER
AS-2775
Installation Guide
Notice
The manufacturer will accept no responsibility for any electrical damage resulting from improper installation of the product, be that either
damage to the vehicle itself or to the unit. This unit must be installed by a certified technician using all safety devices supplied. Please
note that this guide has been written for properly trained Autostart technicians: a certain level of skills and knowledge is therefore
assumed. Please review the installation guide carefully before beginning any work.
Warning
Before installing the unit, if installing on a vehicle with a manual transmission, test that the OEM Door Switch contacts of the vehicle work
well, and that the Parking Brake system operates properly. If installing on a vehicle with an automatic transmission, test that the vehicle
does not start when the gearshift lever is in the “Drive” position. If it starts in gear, reset the remote starter to manual transmission.
DOC. 1.00 - AS-2775 - - July 7, 2008 - - MO - Made in China
Table of Contents
Introduction ............................................................ 2
Included in the Kit .................................................. 3
Installation Tools.................................................... 3
Installation Points to Remember .......................... 3
Installation Order ................................................... 5
A basic introduction to the Relay......................... 7
Harness Description ............................................ 11
6-pin Main Ignition Harness (a.k.a. The Primary
harness) ............................................................ 11
5-pin Secondary Harness (a.k.a. the secondary
harness) ............................................................ 12
12-pin Accessories Harness ............................. 12
3-pin Harness.................................................... 14
Additional Ports ................................................. 14
Entering Programming Mode ............................. 15
The Programming Assistance Button (a.k.a.
PAB)....................................................................... 15
Manual or Automatic Transmission ................... 16
Transmitter Programming Procedure................ 16
Entering Programming Options ......................... 16
Programming Options ......................................... 17
Virtual Tach System............................................. 18
Optional Time Delay Adjustment in Virtual Tach
System .............................................................. 18
Multi-speed Tach Programming ......................... 19
Other Features of the Module............................. 19
Fifth Relay Output (2nd IGN, ACC or CRANK) 19
Tach jumper settings......................................... 19
Clutch Bypass ................................................... 20
Installation-programmable Features.................. 21
Ignition-controlled Door Locks .......................... 21
Secure Lock ...................................................... 21
Starter Kill Arming Mode ................................... 22
Lock Pulse Duration .......................................... 22
Flashing LED..................................................... 23
Safe Start .......................................................... 23
Engine Run Time .............................................. 23
Idle Mode........................................................... 23
Turbo Mode....................................................... 24
Cold Weather Mode .......................................... 24
Valet Mode ........................................................ 25
“Home Valet™” Mode ....................................... 26
Panic Mode ....................................................... 26
The AUX 1 / 2
The AUX 2 Timed Output.................................. 27
The AUX 3 / Trunk or Sunroof Output .............. 27
Programmable External Trigger........................ 27
OEM-Style Alarm .............................................. 27
Ready Mode Option .......................................... 27
Bypass............................................................... 28
Multi-car Operation............................................ 28
Horn Honk Timing ............................................. 28
Resetting the module to default features.......... 29
Closing Up ............................................................ 29
Testing................................................................... 29
Troubleshooting Poor Transmitting Range ...... 30
Diagnostics – Parking Light Flash Table .......... 31
Troubleshooting Q & A........................................ 32
nd
Unlock ..................................... 26
Introduction
This Guide contains all information pertinent to the installation. Most (if not all) features are
grouped in the User Guide. Therefore, should you need information on a feature, please refer to
the User Guide.
P. 2 Installation Guide
Included in the Kit
Before beginning the installation, please review the Installation Guide —particularly the
Wiring Diagram and the Programming Options.
Note: It is very important that you familiarize yourself with the programming and operation of the
system, even if you have already installed a similar system in the past.
There are many great new features you may overlook if you do not read the Guide–you would not
maximize the potential of the unit. Prior to the installation, make sure that all the hardware
components required to install the system are in the box.
The following is a list of components included in the kit:
• 1 – Control Unit
• 2 – Five-button transmitters
• 1 – Antenna interconnect cable
• 1 – 6-pin main ignition harness
• 1 – 5-pin secondary harness
• 1 – 12-pin accessories harness
• 1 – Hood pin-switch
• 1 – Warning label
• 1 – User Guide
• 1 – Quick Installation Guide
• 1 – 3-pin secondary harness
Please note: the plug-in valet button is not included with this model.
Installation Tools
Here is a list of basic tools and supplies you will need to test and install safely:
• Digital multimeter (DMM), neon
'trouble' light that is carpet safe,
fender protector, carpet protector
• Soldering iron, solder, electrical tape,
wire tie straps, split loom, diodes,
resistors, relays
• Wire cutters, wire strippers, wire
crimpers, needle nose pliers
• Sharp knife, panel poppers, various
screw drivers
• Socket set, wrench set, drill with drill
bits, plastic fish tool (for fishing wires
through the firewall)
Installation Points to Remember
♦ On vehicles with a manual transmission,
always ensure that all doors will get the
unit out of ready mode. Switch the wire
used so that it is triggered by all Doors.
♦ Make sure that the Parking brake and
Door switch contacts work properly.
♦ When working on a vehicle, always leave
a window open.
♦ Never leave the keys in the car. Leave
them on a workbench with a window rolled
down.
♦ If possible, remove courtesy light fuse to
prevent battery drain.
♦ The Programming Assistance Button
(a.k.a. PAB): The PAB is mounted on the
side of the unit. This push button mimics
the hood-pin switch in order to avoid having
to get out of the vehicle and pressing the
hood-pin switch. The PAB will work only
when the hood is up.
♦ Inspect vehicle for any body damage or
electrical problems.
♦ Always solder and tape all
connections.
♦ Keep the transceiver away from other
types of antennas (GPS/OnStar®).
♦ Never install the control unit where it
could interfere with normal operation or
obstruct service technicians.
♦ Always use a grommet when running
wires into the engine compartment.
♦ Never run wires through bare or sharp
metal.
♦ Do not disconnect the battery on vehicles
equipped with air bags and anti-theft radios.
♦ Never ground the control unit to the
steering column.
♦ Make sure that all the switches and
controls operate properly.
♦ Verify that the vehicle starts and idles
properly.
♦ Make sure that all safety equipment is
installed: the valet button (if installed), the
hood switch, and the warning label.
Installation Guide P. 3
♦ When wiring in parallel, make sure to
isolate each connection with a diode in
order to avoid feedback and possible
damage.
Examples:
Wiring a clutch bypass and a
transponder module to the ground out
when running wire: At the junction point,
where Ground Out when running “splits”
and goes to each device, a diode is
inserted on each of those lines.
Multiple or separate door pin
connections:
When joining all door pins together to the
door pin input wire of the module, each wire
must be isolated with a diode to prevent
feedback.
N.B.: The above examples reflect common
situations where diodes are used to isolate.
Please note that there are numerous other
scenarios where diode isolation is required.
♦ Always make sure that any external
relays or modules added to the Remote
Starter module are properly fused and
diode isolated.
♦ When testing the Shock Sensor, never
test on glass with an opened hand, and
never hit glass hard enough as to break it.
When testing on metal or plastic, make sure
the testing does not result in damage to the
vehicle (i.e.: dents, broken glass, damaged
trims, etc.).
♦ Vehicles equipped with daytime running
lights may not allow the installer to view
certain programming results since the
daytime running lights do no go out (Note:
The Parking Light output relay in the
module gives two “clicks” per flash, 1 “click”
for ON and 1 “click” for OFF).
♦ Parking Light flashes referred to in this
manual refer to the Parking Light output of
the module and not that of the vehicle.
P. 4 Installation Guide
Installation Order
The following is a suggested order for the Installation procedure. It is intended as a guide for
novices, to help make the process of installing a remote starter module easier. Time is wasted by
rewiring the module when mistakes are made. Also, the neatness of the installation is lessened
every time the module is taken down and the wiring is “corrected”. A messy installation is harder to
trouble shoot if there are problems later on. The actual “how to install” is not covered by this list;
the order of the installation process is the focus.
− Before you get started, make sure the vehicle starts and idles properly with the Ignition key, and
that the electrical system is not compromised in any way.
− After deciding what options are to be added to the basic installation, you can start by looking for
the wires that will be needed.
− Remember to be careful when removing the panels that are covering the wires you are
searching for.
− Once all of the wires have been found, they should be tested to verify that they are the correct
ones you will need for the installation.
− When all the wires pass the test, they can be stripped to expose the wire (over one inch of
plastic should be removed).
− It is always better to strip more than you need. A common way cold solder joints happen is when
not enough plastic is stripped off the vehicle's wire, so during the soldering process the plastic
from the wire melts and flows into the connection instead of the solder.
− Decide where the module is going to be mounted. It is ALWAYS mounted inside the passenger
compartment, and never in the engine bay. Under the driver's side of the dash there is usually
enough room for the module to fit. Once the location has been decided, proceed to the next
step.
− Mount the antenna and run the cable to the location where the module is going to be mounted.
The antenna will get the best range when it is high up in the vehicle, and not obstructed by
metal. The most common choice is the center of the windshield at the top, behind the rear view
mirror, and at least one inch below the tint strip. Another location should be used if there is
another antenna in this location, compass, or other device that may interfere with the range of
the start module.
− Mount the Valet switch and LED (if applicable). Make sure they are close enough to the
selected module mounting location so they will plug in when the module is mounted. If the wires
are too short, they will have to be extended.
− In the engine compartment, mount the hood pin, in a suitable location. Search along the firewall
for an OEM grommet you run the wires through. If you cannot find an OEM grommet to use, you
will have to drill a hole. The hole must be big enough for all of your wires to fit through. To be
safe drill the hole out a little bigger so the wires will not get squished. We recommend using an
aftermarket grommet whenever you drill a hole through the firewall. This will protect the wires
from rubbing against the bare metal and possibly shorting out. If you are installing an alarm /
starter combo module, mount the siren in the engine compartment at this time.
− The next step is to pre-wire the module. This is done on your work bench, and not in the vehicle.
Connect any external modules and relays that may be needed for you install. Tape or tie-strap
wires that are going to be routed to the same areas of the vehicle. This will keep things neat
Installation Guide P. 5
when the module is in the vehicle. The fuses on the power wires should be removed during the
pre-wire stage. The fuses will not be put back in until the powering stage of the installation.
− Once the pre-wiring is finished, the module can be brought into the vehicle. Before the module is
mounted, connect the antenna, the valet switch, shock sensor (if applicable) and LED to the
module. With everything connected to the module, it can now be mounted in the vehicle. Use
tie-straps to secure it to the vehicle. Make sure the module and harnessing do not interfere with
any moving parts, and do not obstruct access to diagnostic ports, or fuse boxes. It should be up
in the dash, high enough that it won't get kicked by accident.
− Once the module is secured, route the wires to the previously stripped wires they correspond to
(leave the engine compartment wires for last). Tie strap them up as you go, so they do not
interfere with anything else.
− When all of the passenger compartment wires are ran to their locations, you can route the
engine compartment wires through the firewall.
− With the engine compartment wires out the way, you can begin making the connections in the
passenger compartment. Strip about an inch of wire past where the connection is going to be
made. This extra bit of wire is wrapped around the exposed OEM wire to secure in place while
you are soldering.
− When all of the wires have been connected, solder the connections. When the solder has
cooled, the connections are then individually taped up, to isolate them.
− Return to the engine bay and route the start module wires to their corresponding connections.
− Solder the engine compartment wire once the connections are made. When the solder has
cooled, the connections are then individually taped up, to isolate them.
− Use your DMM to verify that your ground location is good before grounding the module.
− The last step before programming is to power up the module. Replace the power fuses on the
power wire fuse holders. The module will flash the Park lights twice to confirm the power-up.
− If you are installing an alarm / starter combo module, the siren will be sounding at this point.
Place the module into Valet mode to silence the siren. Take the module out of valet mode to
continue the programming (note: the module default programming is passive arming; after
exiting valet mode, the alarm will start the countdown for passive arming. You have 30 seconds
to begin the remote control programming procedure, before the module rearms).
• Program the remote control
• Program the tach signal
• Change the programming of the options, if necessary
• Test the module's operations
• If all of the testing is successful, the installation is completed and the vehicle can be put
back together.
P. 6 Installation Guide
A basic introduction to the Relay
What is a relay?
A device that responds to a small current or voltage change by activating switches or other devices
in an electric circuit. An electromagnetic switch, remote-controlled switch, a switching device.
Why are Relays used?
Relays can have several purposes in remote car starter installations. They are used mainly for
isolation, inversion, interruption, strengthening current, and for powering multiple wires from one
source SAFELY.
How does it work?
The basic relay consists of a coil and a set of contacts. The most common relay mechanism is
electromagnetic. When voltage is applied to the coil, current passes through the wire and creates a
magnetic field. This magnetic field pulls the contacts together and holds them there until the current
flow in the coil has stopped.
Relays come in all varieties and types, but for the applications that concern us, we will concentrate
on the Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) 12 Volts relay.
Naming Convention:
Usually the relay’s manufacturer will include an electrical diagram on the relay displaying the role of
each terminal and how they interact with each other. These terminal numbers are standard, and
can be used with any SPDT relay.
85 & 86: The Coil. These inputs energize the coil when one is +12 Volts, and the other is Negative.
They are usually non-polarized, so it does not matter which one is positive (+) or negative (-).
87: Normally Open (N/O). When the coil is energized, 87 is connected to 30.
87A: Normally Closed (N/C). When the coil is at rest, 87A is connected to 30.
30: Common. When the relay is at rest, 30 is connected to 87A. When the coil is energized, it is
then moved and makes contact with 87 (note: in a SPDT relay, 30 can never be connected to 87
and 87A at the same time; 30 is connected to either 87 OR 87A)
What happens:
When there is no voltage across the COIL (terminals 85 and 86), the relay's movable contact ARM
(connected to terminal 30) is held, by SPRING tension, against terminal 87a (normally closed
circuit).
When 12 volts is applied to the COIL (terminals 85 and 86), the ARM (connected to terminal 30) is
pulled in by the electromagnet (COIL) so that it physically connects to terminal 87 (normally open
circuit)
Remember, there is no polarity on a relay’s coil. This means that you may apply positive from the
battery to either terminal 85 OR 86, and then Ground the OTHER terminal to activate the relay. In
other words, you may use either a positive or negative trigger to energize the relay.
Keep in mind that when the relay is energized, if the positive OR the ground connection on the coil
is broken, the ARM switches the connection between 30 back from 87 to 87a.
Quenching Diodes:
It was said earlier that you energize a relay by applying positive from the battery to either 85 OR 86
and grounding the other terminal. This is not absolutely true: some relays are “polarized” if they
have a quenching/suppression diode (a diode installed between the coil terminals 85 and 86, could
be internal or external). To activate the coil on this type of relay, make sure that the +12 Volts
trigger is on the same terminal of the relay as the Cathode (- or striped side) of the
Installation Guide P. 7
quenching/suppression diode, and that the Negative trigger is on the same terminal of the relay as
the Anode (+ or non-striped side) of the quenching/ suppression diode.
When a relay’s coil is energized, a magnetic field is created and energy is stored in the coil. When
power is removed from the coil, the magnetic field collapses. This causes a Reverse Voltage to be
generated and can sometimes reach 200 volts. A quenching diode absorbs this reverse voltage
spike.
A closer look at a relay:
Now that you know what the main inscriptions are on the relay, take a look on the side, and you will
see another inscription: i.e. (12 VDV, 40/ 30 A)
12 VDC: This indicates the coil voltage rating. For an Automotive relay, it's usually 12 Volts DC.
40/ 30 A: This indicates the current carrying capability of the contacts 30, 87, & 87A.
40: Indicates that the normally closed circuit (30 and 87a) can safely handle a maximum of 40
amps of current.
30: Indicates that the normally open circuit (30 and 87) can safely handle a maximum of 30 amps
of current.
Examples: The following examples demonstrate some of the most common uses for relays:
isolation, inversion, interruption, strengthening current, and for powering multiple wires from one
source SAFELY.
Powering multiple wires from one source safely:
Example: Powering a second Ignition
Problem: You need to power Multiple Ignition wires to remote start the vehicle, but your module
only has one Ignition output available.
Solution: You will need to add a second ignition relay to power the second ignition wire. (Jumping
Ignition 1 to Ignition 2 is NEVER recommended. Always use a relay. The vehicle circuits are
Isolated for a reason; the wiring of the remote star module should reflect this.)
The relay connections:
85: Connects in parallel to the Ignition 1 output from the remote start module. This becomes the
positive side of the coil.
86: Connects to the Ground Out when Running wire from the remote start module. This becomes
the negative side of the coil.
87: Connected to a Fused +12 Volts source that is capable of supplying power for the vehicle's
second ignition wire. This becomes the source of power for the 2
nd
ignition wire.
87A: No connection. This terminal is not used in this application.
30: Connects to the vehicle's second ignition wire. This becomes the output of the 2
nd
ignition
relay.
Comments: The relay is only energized when the vehicle is running by remote start. When started
with the Key, the relay is not energized and the integrity of the stock system has been preserved.
Isolation:
Example: Isolating a Parking light output
P. 8 Installation Guide
Problem: Some vehicle circuits need to be isolated from feedback. In some cases, when a vehicle
is remote started, feedback occurs on a circuit and powers another device or switch that was not
intended to be powered during the remote starts.
The following example will be a Positive (+) Parking Light circuit that feeds back and activates the
windshield wipers during remote starts.
Solution: When power is applied to the OEM Parking light wire, it back feeds through the parking
light switch and activates the wipers. Where the connection was made from the start modules'
Parking light output and the vehicle's parking light circuit, the OEM parking light wire is cut to
isolate the parking light switch and the actual parking lights. A Relay is added to the parking light
circuit so that power from the remote start module is only sent to the parking lights and not the
parking light switch.
The relay connections:
85: Connects to the +12 Volt Parking light output from the remote start module. This becomes the
positive side of the coil.
86: Connects to a Negative source, i.e. the spot where the remote start module is grounded. This
becomes the negative side of the coil.
87: Connects to the +12 Volt Parking light output from the remote start module. This becomes the
power supply for the vehicle's parking lights. The OEM parking light wire is cut. The side that is still
connected to the switch becomes the “Switch Side”. The side that is still connected to the Parking
lights becomes “Parking Lights Side”.
87A: Connects to the “Switch Side” of the cut OEM parking light wire.
30: Connects to the “Parking Light Side” of the cut OEM parking light wire.
Comments: When the relay is at rest, the OEM Parking light wire is connected (through 87A & 30)
and allowed to operate normally. When the remote start module powers the Parking lights, the
OEM parking light wire is opened, and power from the remote start module is sent only to the
actual Parking Lights (from 87 through 30).
Inversion:
Example: Activating a Positive Trunk release switch
Problem: The vehicle's power trunk release switch is activated by a positive (+) pulse, and the
remote start module's Trunk output is negative (-).
Solution: A relay is used to invert the negative signal from the start module to a positive signal
before it is sent to the OEM switch.
The relay connections:
85: Connects to the start module's Trunk release output wire. This becomes the negative side of
the coil.
86: Connects to a fused +12 Volts source. This becomes the positive side of the coil.
87: Connects to a fused +12 Volts source. This becomes the supply for the positive trunk release.
87A: No connection. This terminal is not used in this application.
30: Connects to the OEM trunk wire in the vehicle.
Comments: At rest, the trunk switch is allowed to operate normally. When the Trunk button on the
remote is pressed, the negative Trunk output from the remote start module triggers the relay. When
Installation Guide P. 9
the relay is activated, +12 volts from 87 is sent through 30, and the OEM trunk switch is activated,
by the positive pulse.
Interruption:
Example: Creating a Starter Kill relay to prevent unauthorized starting of the vehicle.
Problem: The OEM starter circuit needs to be disabled only when theft is attempted.
Solution: A relay is used to interrupt the OEM starter wire. There is an output on the remote start
module especially for this purpose (Starter Kill output).
The relay connections:
85: Connects to the Starter Kill output wire from the remote start module. This becomes the
negative trigger for the coil.
86: Connects to the vehicle's Ignition wire. This becomes the positive trigger for the coil.
87: No connection. This terminal is not used in this application. The vehicle's OEM start wire is cut.
The side of the wire that is still connected to the Ignition switch becomes the “Key Side” of the
starter wire. The side of the wire that is still connected to the starter motor becomes the “Starter
Side” of the starter wire.
87A: Connects to the “Key Side” of the cut OEM starter wire.
30: Connects to the “Starter Side” of the cut OEM start wire.
Comments: At rest the relay is not active, and +12 volts on the starter wire passes through the
relay (through 87A & 30) normally. The Starter Kill output wire on the remote start module is
activated when the LOCK button is pressed on the remote control. When a theft attempt happens,
and the thief powers the Ignition circuit (to hot wire the vehicle), and the Starter Kill was ARMED
(by the LOCK button on the remote), the starter kill relay activates. The OEM start wire is now
open, (does not make connection) because 30 is no longer connected to 87A, and the vehicle is
unable to start.
Strengthening current:
Example: Strengthening an output
Problem: A vehicle has a negative (-) trigger Trunk release wire. The module has a negative Trunk
release output wire. The remote start module is unable to supply the necessary current to activate
the vehicle's Trunk release wire.
Solution: A Relay is used to provide the necessary negative current to activate the vehicle's Trunk
release wire.
The relay connections:
85: Connects to the start module's Trunk release wire output. This becomes the Negative trigger
for the coil.
86: Connects to a fused +12 Volt source.
87: Connects to a Negative source, i.e. the spot where the remote start module is grounded. This
becomes the supply for activating the vehicle's Trunk release wire.
87A: No connection. This terminal is not used in this application.
30: Connects to the vehicle's Trunk release wire.
Comments: At rest the relay is not active and the vehicle's Trunk release switch is allowed to
operate normally. When the Trunk release button is pressed on the remote control, the start
P. 10 Installation Guide
module's Trunk release output activates the relay. The ground signal is sent from 87 through 30 to
the vehicle's Trunk release wire activating the switch and opening the trunk.
Harness Description
6-pin Main Ignition Harness (a.k.a. The Primary harness)
The two Red wires are the power inputs for the module; the other wires are for recreating the
actions of the Ignition switch during remote starts. On most vehicles these wires are connected at
the vehicle's Ignition switch.
Wire Description
Connect to the largest 12 V supply wire at the Ignition harness. Ensure that the OEM
power wire is fused for more than 30 A.
NOTE: Certain new vehicles have no suitable 12 volts source at the IGNITION switch
(the 12 Volt wire is too small to supply the necessary current). In this case, the fuse
box, or the B+ connection on the battery is recommended. If wires need to be
extended, you must protect them with additional fuses connected at the entry
source.
Connect to the Starter wire of the vehicle (at the
should have +12 V with the Ignition Key in the Crank position only.
Connect to the largest 12 V supply wire at the Ignition harness. Ensure that the OEM
power wire is fused for more than 30 A.
NOTE: certain new vehicles have no suitable 12 volts source at the IGNITION switch
(the 12 Volt wire is too small to supply the necessary current). In this case, the fuse
box, or the B+ connection on the battery is recommended. If wires need to be
extended, you must protect them with additional fuses connected at the entry
source.
Connect to Ignition wire of the vehicle. The source wire should have +12 V with the
Ignition Key in the Ignition On (Run) and Crank positions.
Warning: some vehicles have more than one IGN wire at the IGNITION switch for
powering the heater blower motor. Use the 5th relay (pin F) and extra relays to power
up any extra IGN. wires if necessary. DO NOT JUMP WIRES at the IGNITION switch, this
will compromise the OEM electrical system. If wires need to be extended, you must
protect them with additional fuses connected at the entry source.
This wire is for powering the heater blower motor. It is usually classified as an Acc.
(no power in the crank position.) if it tests as an
then power it as an
Warning: some vehicles have more than one ACC wire at the IGNITION switch for
powering the heater blower motor. Use the 5th relay (pin F) and extra relays to power
up any extra ACC. wires if necessary. DO NOT JUMP WIRES at the IGNITION switch, this
will compromise the OEM electrical system.
This high-current output can be used to power a
2ND STARTER WIRE. See jumper settings on page 19 for correct output.
Additional IGNITIONS, ACCESSORIES, or STARTER WIRES must use external relays.
DO NOT JUMP WIRES at the IGNITION switch, this will compromise the OEM electrical
system.
IGNITION (5th relay, or extra relay).
IGNITION switch). The source wire
IGNITION (power in the crank pos.)
2nd IGNITION or a 2nd ACCESSORY or a
1
2
3
4
ORANGE
5
Accessories
PINK/WHITE
6
(+) 30 A 5th
relay output
RED
(+) 12 V
Battery
VIOLET
(+) 30 A
starter
output
RED
(+) 12 V
Battery
PINK
(+) 30 A
ignition
output
(+) 30 A
output
Installation Guide P. 11
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