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Preface and General Safety Notes
Part 1: Operating Instructions Cl. 744-122
1. Product Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
1.1 Summary and Intended Use . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
1.2 Technical Specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
1.3 Optional Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
2. Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
2.1 Replacing the Material Guide Rail by Primary Seams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
2.2 Attaching the Material Stopper by Primary Seams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
2.3 Setting the Seam Interval by Primary Seams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
2.4 Needles-Yarn-Thread Tensions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
2.5 Inserting the Material and Starting the Sewing Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
2.6 Thread Monitor for Needle and Bobbin Thread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
2.7 Build-on Stacker by Primary Seams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
1. Pr oduct Description
1.1_ Summary and Intended Use
The 744-122 s ewing unit is for sewing
pre-determined, straight or curved seams. A rail
appropriate to the seam c o nf iguration holds a nd
guides the ma te rial.
The material transport is conducted by a step
motor. The sewing unit has electro-pneumatic
controls.
The Microcontrol control units have the integrated
"Multitest" testing and monitoring system. Along
with monitor ing t he s ewing pr o ces s t his al lows a
quick checking of the input and output elements.
Possible operating errors and malfunctions are
shown in the dis p lay.
Depending on t he pr o gram, the control of th e
sewing unit can oc c u r v ia ph ot oc e ll or d istance
measurement.
Along with con ti nuo us seams from seam be gi nn in g
to seam end the following additional functions can
be selected wi th th e c o nt r ol unit:
– Slit at the be gi nn in g o f t he ma te rial
– Slit at the end of the material
– Slit at the be gi nn in g a nd at th e e nd of the
material
– Seam interruption or pa rtial st it c h c o nd en s in g
– Seam interruption with slit at the beginning and
at the end of the material
– Security at th e s e am en d t hr o ug h c h ai n
stitching or stitch condensing
The selector switc h on th e b ack of th e c o nt rol un it
front panel mu st h ave a set ti ng ap pr o pr i at e to the
work procedures.
The setting normally occurs at the factory.
Which selector switch setting should be chosen for
which work procedure can be found in the
Microcontrol c on tro ls s u mm ary in the annex to
these instructions.
Please direct fu rther en qu ir i es c o nc e rning work
procedures/a pp li c at io ns t o
or its offices.
Through equipment with the appropriate parts sets,
the sewing unit can be used for the following work
procedures:
1. Primary seams: Work procedure A,
e.g. rear sleeve seam, mid-back seam, fro nt
sleeve seam, side piece sea m- overco at , f r on t
sleeve seam with outer ma te rial-lining in one
step etc.
2. Sewing wais t ba nd s on tro us e r s: work
procedure D
3. Sewing waistbands on skirts: Work procedure E
3
1.2 T ec hnical Speci fication
Nominal voltage: Standard machine
3x380-400V+N, 50 Hz
The nominal voltage (operating voltage) for which
the sewing unit was set up is shown on the pl at e
attached to th e s p ar a t the front left un de r th e t able
top.
For operation with other mains voltages the
information contained in the enclosed connection
diagram 9870 744001 B must be strictly adhered to
and the necessary connection changes made.
Depending on the mains voltage and cycle the
necessary modification parts, e.g. pulley, V-belt,
protectio n switc h in s ert,etc . are available under th e
following order no.s:
3x380-400V+N 50 Hz - 744 100121
3x220-230V 50 Hz - 7 44 100122
3x220-230V 60 Hz - 7 44 100123
3x415V+N, 50 Hz - 744 100124
Machine Head
– One needle- d ua l c h ai n s t it c h S titch type 40 1
– Class 935- 9 33 - 20 0
– with controlled thread trimmer on the base plate
– Number of st itc h es : adjustable between
3800-5400 sti tc h es / mi n.
– Stitch lengt h: adjustable for 2,1 m m,
2,5 mm, 3,0 mm o r 3, 6 m m
– Stitch length by stitch condensing: 2,0 mm,
1,5 mm or off
– Needle system: 934 SIN
Material Guide Rail
The left, r ig ht an d wai t p os i ti on s c an be s el ec t ed
with the control unit. The wait position keeps the
feed area clear.
The return speed of the material guide rail can be
reduced through a coding. It is dependent on the
form of the material guide rail.
The rail clea ranc e s tr o ke is 3 0 m m.
Compressed Air :
Operating p res s u r e: 6 bar
Air consumption: approx. 9 NL per operating cycle
Vacuum:
The sewing unit is prepared for connection to an
in-house vacuum facility. If this is not available then
a rotar y blower mus t a ls o be ord er e d.
For 3 x 380-400V+N, 50 Hz - Or d er n o.722 3031 K
For 3 x 415V+N, 50 Hz _- Order no.722 3032K
For 3 x 220-230V, 50 Hz - Or d er n o.722 3033 K
For 3 x 220-230V, 60 Hz - Order no.722 3034K
For 3 x 220V, 50 Hz - O rd er n o.722 3035 K
Dimensions: Width: 3600 mm (2100 mm)
Depth : 1000 m m (1000 mm)
Heigh t: 1500 mm to top of
_ control un it (1 4 00 mm )
( ) = Shipping di me ns i on s
The sewing u ni t ( work level) is height adjustable
from 920-1140 mm for standing operation.
Sewing Lengths
Depending on the equipment, the maximum sewing
length can be either 1000 mm or 1250 mm.
Appropri at e t ra nsp ort dr ive parts and m at erial
guide rails make possible a quick conversion.
1.3 Optional Equipment
Order no.
794 7451 Side table
935 - - - - Edge cutter and chain trimmer
935 20607 Throat plate with stitch hole 1,5x5 mm
935 20608 Throat plate with stitch hole 1,8x5 mm
4
2. Operation
Turn main switc h o f f !
- R i sk of Injury -
– when threading
– when replacing sewing tools e.g. needle
– when cleaning
– when leaving the work place unattended
– by maintenance work
2.1 Repla ci ng the mate rial guide ra il by
primary seams
Turn main switc h o f f !
- R i sk of Injury! -
Removing
– Place valve lever 1 in the down position.
– Lift the guide piston 2 with its two rollers 9 and
8 out of the rail 3.
– Pull the rail 3 out of the needle area from the
front.
– Release the left and right clamp lever 7.
– Remove the rail afte r li ft in g the clamp piston 6
and place in the mounting at the left on the
covering hood.
7
Inserting
– The insertion of the rai l i s c on du c te d i n t he
reverse order.
– When tightening the clamp lever 7 care should
be taken to see that the pin 5 of the clamp
piston 6 snap in to th e hole 4 of the rail.
– The roller 8 of t he gu id e piston and the r olle r _9
for the thread trimmer must be lowered into the
groove on the rail. Place the valve lever 1 up
again. Otherwise the display *Schiene* will
appear. - A starting of the sewing unit is then
not p ossibl e.
1
1
6
5
4
3
2
2
9
8
5
2.2 Attaching the material stopper by
primary seams
Turn main switch off!
- Risk of Inju ry -
– The contours of the material stopper and the
material guide rail must agree in the transport
carriage’s right hand position.
– Turn the star gr i p 7 back several turns.
– Slide the holder plate 5 under the star grip 7 in
such a manner that its cutout is exactly seated
on the collar b ol t a nd th e h ol e l ock s ab ove the
location peg 6.
2.3 Setting the seam interval by pri-
mary seams
The uniform ga p b et ween material gu id e rai l a nd
material s to pp er, that is, the pl an ne d s e am in terval,
is to be set af te r lo os e ni ng th e s cr ews 4.
– Screw the star grip 7 tight.
– When equipped wi th ma te r ia l hol de r 1 o n t he
material stopper its compressed air hose
should be plugged into the pneumatic socket 3.
– The coding pl ug _2 _i s al ways to b e p lu gg ed in to
the socket 8_.
It contains the coding for the allowable rail
return speed.
2
3
1
4
8
6
7 6 5
2.4 Needles - Y arns - Thread tension
Needles
System 934 S IN needles are to be us e d.
(SIN = slightly rounded point)
Recommended needle thickness:
Nm 80
Nm 90 for thin m ateria l
Nm 100 for medium material
Nm 110
Nm 120 for thick material
Throat plates w it h w id er st itch holes are to b e u s ed
for needle thicknesses ab ove Nm 100. See Section
1.3 Optional E qu ip me nt .
Turn main switc h o f f !
- R i sk of Injury -
When inserting the needle care is to be taken that
the hollow neck of the needle points to the left
when seen from the operating side of the sewing
unit.
Thread tension
The tension of th e n ee dl e t hr e ad mus t be gr ea te r
than that of the bobbin thread. The bobbin thread
tension is therefore equipped with a spring of
thinner wire.
Too high thread tensions cause the material being
sewn to pucker.
A too low bobbin t hre ad te ns i on c an c au se faulty
stitches.
For drawing the threads for tr im mi ng or by seam
interrupti on s th e n ee dl e thread tension is r e le as e d
pneumatically.
2.5 Inserting the material and star ting
the sewing unit
The sewing unit is equipped at the factory for a
specific wo r k pr o c ed ur e, e.g . for primary seams, for
sewing waistbands on tro us e rs or for sewing
waistbands on skir ts.
For each of these work procedures th er e are
multiple insertion methods with var iing switching
stages for feeding, suction and starting available.
For the choice of insertion methods for each work
procedure an d t y pe of ha nd li ng s ee S ection 4.5 of
the Microcon tro l s u mm ary in the manu al an nex.
Switching on the feed procedure occurs via the "E"
key of the control unit. Then an activation through
the STOP key is necessary.
Yarns
High sewing secur it y an d g ood s ewabilit y are
achieved with covering yarns, especi al ly
a) with dual polyester endless - polyester covered,
e.g. Epic Poly Poly, Rasant x, Saba C and
others;
b) with dual polyester endless - cotton covered,
e.g. Frikka, Koban, Rasant and others.
As yarn thickness dependent on the needle
thickness we recommend:
Needle thickne ss Cover i ng yarn
Nm polyester-endless
90 120 (Nm 80/2)
100 100 (Nm 65/2 )
110 75 (Nm 50/2)
Concerni ng th e t hr e ad in g o f the needle and b obb in
threads see t he en c lo sed operating card.
7
2.6 Thread monitor for needle and bobbin thread
The threads are monitored by proximity switches.
The needle thr e ad by th e b 15 switc h in c o nj un c ti on
with the meta l eye on t he arm head.
The metal eye and switch b1 4 for th e b obb in th r ea d
are immediately in front of the hook.
By needle thread breakage the display shows -XBy bobbin thr ea d b r ea k ag e t he di spl ay shows - X X -
The sewing unit c a nn ot be r e-s t arted.
When threading:
Turn main switch off!
- Risk of Inju ry -
b15
b14
2.7 Build-on stacker by primary seams
In order that th e p ie c es sew n ca n be stacked
centered on the stacker 1 according to their length,
a clamp-on mo me nt in advance of the pull -out
moment can be selected.
(For this the b417.5 selector switch on the back of
the control u ni t f r on t p an el mus t be in th e " o pe n"
position.)
To choosing the cla mp -on mo ment see the
operating card 744-122.
The stacker can be op en ed pn eumatically via
pedal for removing the stacked pieces sewn.
1
8
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