Page 1
WHITER
SEWING
MACHINE
MODEL
734
OPERATORS
INSTRUCTIONS
Page 2
WHITE_SEWING
MACHINE
Record
in
space
provided
below
the
Serial
No.
and
Model
No.
of
this
appliance.
The
Serial
No.
is
located
Rear
of
arm.
The
Model
No.
is
located
Rear
of
arm.
Serial
No.
____________
______
Model
No.
734
Retain
these
numbers
for
future
reference.
:
C
C
You
are
now
the
owner
of
a
new
zigzag
sewing
machine,
the
most
versatile
type
of
its
kind
you
can
possess.
Buttonholes,
monogramming,
stretch
stitching,
C
overcasting
and
creative
embroidery
are
done
with
ease
and
speed.
C
To
aid
you
in
obtaining
the
greatest
performance
from
your
new
WHITE.
this
book
on
its
care
and
use
has
been
written
for
you.
Read
the
instructions
carefully,
as
a
thorough
understanding
of
your
machine
will
reward
you
with
many
hours
of
trouble
free,
creative
sewing.
WHITE
SEWING
MACHINE
COMPANY
Cleveland,
Ohio
44111
WHITE
CONSOLIDATED
INDUSTRIES,
LTD.
Scarborough,
Ontario,
Canada
9
C
6
..
G
.,
.6
..
—
Page 3
I
CONTENTS
PAGE
SECTION
I
PRELIMINARY
INFORMATION
Parts
Identification
Principle
Parts
Accessories
Electrical
Connections
Attaching
Extension
Plate
SECTION
II
PRIME
PREPARATION
OF
MACHINE
Choosing
the
Right
Needle
8
Needle-ThreadFabric-Stitching
Guide
9
Changing
Needle
10
Changing
Needle
Plate
10
Selection
of
Presser
Foot
11
Winding
Bobbin
12
Adjusting
Bobbin
Winder
12
Upper
Threading
13
Threading
Bobbin
Case
14
Placing
Bobbin
Case
in
Shuttle
14
SECTION
III
GETTING
TO
KNOW
YOUR
MfCHINE
Selection
of
Stitch
Stitch
Length
Control
15
Reverse
Button
15
Needle
Position/Stitch
Width/Buttonhole
Control
16
Relating
Stitch
Length
to
Stitch
Width
16
Stretch
Stitch
Control
17
Stitch
Pattern
Selector
17
Controls
Adjusting
Thread
Tensions
18
Adjusting
Pressure
on
Fabric
and
Feed
Dog
Height
19
Sewing
Light
20
SECTION
IV
HOW
TO
SEW
Preparing
to
Sew
21
Guiding
Fabric
21
Turning
Corners
21
Curved
Seams
21
Sewing
Across
Heavy
Seams
22
Free-Arm
Sewing
22
Removing
the
Work
22
SECTION
V
APPLICATIONS
OF
STflCHES
Straight
Stitch
Seams
23
Basting/Topstitching
23
Darning
23
Cording/Sewing
in
Zipper
24
Ouilting
24
Zigzag
Stitch
Overcasting
25
Sewing
Knits
25
Sewing
on
Button
25
With
a
Thread
Shank
..
26
Satin
Stitching
26
Freehand
Monogramming
27
Applique
27
Gathering
Over
a
Cord
28
Lace
Application
28
Flutter
Hem
28
Sewing
Tips
29
Multiple
Stitch
Zigzag
29
Interlock
Stitch
30
Twin
Needle
Sewing
30
Buttonholes
Preparation
Built-in
Buttonhole
32
Turn-Around
Buttonhole
33
Corded
Buttonhole
33
Blind
Hem
Stitch
&
Stretch
Blind-Hem
Stitch
34
Stretch
Stitches
Straiit
Stretch
Stitch
35
Rick-Rack
35
Stretch
Overlock,
Elastic
Edging,
StitchandOvercast,
Ovet
lock
&
Feather
Stitches
35
Applications
36
Elastic
Application
36
Overtock
Application
3637
Decorative
Stitches
37
SECTION
VI
CARE
AND
MAINTENANCE
OF
YOUR
MACHINE
Oiling
Machine
38
Cleaning
and
Oiling
Shuttle
Area
39
Problems
and
Remedies
40
4
6
7
7
3
Page 4
SECTION
I
PRELIMINARY
INFORMATION
-4o
t
1
11
Fi.
.k’r
)r’t
14
‘
L’
.1I
L___
1.
TakeUp
2.
Pressure
Control
3.
Top
Thread Guides
4.
Needle
Position/
Stitch
Width/Button
hole
Control
5.
Stitch Pattern
Selection
Table
6.
Stitch
Pattern
Selec
tot
7.
Stretch
Stitch
Control
8.
Bobbin
Winder
9.
Hand
Wheel
10.
Stitch
Length
Control
11.
Reverse
Button
12.
Feed
Dog
Height
Control
13.
Needle Plate
14.
Presser
Foot
15.
Feed
Dog
16.
Access
Cover
17.
Thumb
Screw
18.
Needle
Clamp
19.
Check
Spring
20.
Tension
Dial
21.
Face
Plate
22.
Spool
Pins
23,
Bobbin
Winder
Tension
Disc
24,
Light
Switch
25.
Presser
Foot
Lever
26.
Thread
Cutter
27.
Extension
Plate
28.
Clutch-nut
Alwaysatits
highest
position
when
beginning
or
ending
sewing.
For
regulating
the
pressure
on
fabric.
For
leading
thread
to
tension
control
for sewing.
For
selecting
needle
position,
setting stitch
width
and
button
hole
steps.
Fo(’reference
of
selected
stitch
pattern.
For
selecting
the
stitch
pattern.
For
changing
ordinary
stitch
to triple
reinforced
stitch
(stretch
stitch).
For
winding
thread
on
bobbin.
For
the
control
of
the
up
and
down
movement
of
the
needle.
For
selecting
stitch
length
between
no feeding
and
about
8
stitches
per
inch.
For
easy
backtacking
to
lock
thread
ends
by
pushing
the
button.
For
regulating
feed dog
height
for
various
materials
and
types
of
sewing.
With
guide
lines
for
sewing
accuracy.
For
holding
fabric
when
sewing.
Diamond
pointtomove
fabric
accurately.
For
opening
an
accesstobobbin
and
bobbin
case.
For
tightening
presser
foot
in
place
on presser
bar.
For
holding
needle
in
placeinthe
slot
of
needle
bar.
For
automatic
precise
flow
of
upper
thread.
For
regulating
the
amount
of
tension
on
upper
thread.
Hinge
type
for
replacement
of
light
bulb
and
oiling.
For
holding
spools,
preventing
over
-spin
of
spools.
For
providing
proper
tension
on
thread when
bobbin
winding.
For
turning
on
or
off
the
light
inside
face
cover.
For
lifting
or
lowering
presser
bar
and
presser
foot.
For
cutting both
upper
and
lower
threads
after
sewing.
For
changing
to
flat
sewing
surface.
For
stopping
movement
of
the
needle
bar
in
order
to
wind
bobbin.
PARTS
IDENTIFICATION
PRINCIPLE
PARTS
FRONT
VIEW
5
Page 5
Pi
1.
f.it
:-
;E:.
Q
Quilting
Guide
helps
make
parallel
rows
of
.tldiing.
Cloth
Guide
and
Screw
alde
in
sewing
strdit
e.n1.
Screw
Drivers
niell
one
for
UI.
on
belbln
tension.
largi
one
for
use
on
thumb
scrw
n..di,
cI.np
screw,
etc.
Tubed
Oiler
for
usa
in
oiling
the
macbin..
Sos
page
38.
ELECTRICAL
CONNEC
TIONS
Insert
the
plug
with
the
inden
tations
on
the
underside
into
the
socket
on
the
right
side
of
the
machine.
The
plug
will
only
go
in
one
way.
Place
the
foot
control
in
such
a
position
that
your
foot
rests
comfort
ably
on
it.
Insert
the
plug
into
a
wail
outlet,
1lO—120V.
Your
machine
is
grounded
as
a
safety
feature
provided
on
White
Sewing
Machines,*
When
not
in
use,
keep
the
plug
disconnected
from
machine.
ATTACHING
EXTEN
SION
PLATE
To
change
to
flat
sewing
surface,
place
extension
plate
as
follows.
1.
Turn
down
the
extension
plate
support
legs
(A)
with
the
left
hand.
2.
Pull
the
lock
lever
(B)
and
turn
it
up
to
the
left.
3.
Tilt
the
extension
plate
down
to
enter
the
pin
(C)
in
the
corresponding
hole
ID)
at
the
rear
side
free
arm.
4.
Turn
the
lever
(8)
down
to
the
right
to
set
the
pin
into
front
hole
(El.
Note:
In
case
of
sewing
tubular
areas,
detach
the
extension
plate
for
free
arm
sewing.
Mt..i..tUl1lLS
Your
new
White
sewing
machine
comes
equipped
with
the
following
set
of
acceories
to
make
your
sewing
easier.
Three
Metal
Bobbins
Buttonhole
Foot
Th.
bobbins
are
made
of
m.ti
end
hold
about
BOyvds
of
thr.ad.
Needles
All-purpose
nedl.
six..
11,
14
and
18
we
induded.
Twin
M(C
I.
elsa
pro
vided.
Two
Felt
Washers
the
for
buttonhol
ing.
Button
Sewing
Foot
hold
button
in
puce
for
stitching.
j
Cording
and
Zipper
Foot
for
stitching
very
do..
to
the
dge
of
•
cord
or
zipper.
I
I
‘5
:
“
Straiit
Stitch
Foot
and
Plate
for
ItNll
sawing
0
1
on
dtsor
and
very
____
ilolit
bWi)t
milan.
ale
wfsrl
extra
support
is
needed.
6
*
U.S.A
only.
Page 6
18
to
20
SECtION
Ii
PRIME
PREPARATION
OF
MACHINE
Fabric
Machine
Stitching
Per
Inch
Mercerized
Thread
CHOOSING
THE
RIGHT
NEEDLE
NEEDLE,
THREAD,
FABRIC
&
STITCHING
GUIDE
TYPES
OF
NEEDLES
I
he
correct
selection
of
needle
to
suit
the
thread
and
fabric
being
sewn
gives
the
best
The
correct
selection
of
needle
and
thread
to
suit
the
fabric
will
result
in
more
satisfactory
siitching
results.
Fine
fabric
should
be
sewn
with
tine
needles,
heavier
fabrics
with
heavier
stitching.
Fine
fabrics
should
be
stitched
with
fine
needles,
fine
thread
and
short
stitches.
needles
For
best
results,
sewing
machine
needles
should
be
replaced
when
they
become
For
best
results
on
heavier
fabrics,
use
coarser
needles,
heavier
threads
and
longer
stitches.
even
slightly
dull
or
bent
or
at
the
completion
of
every
other
garment.
Replace
the
machine
needle
when
it
becomes
even
slightly
dull
or
bent.
A
regular
needle
is
suggested
for
use
with
woven
fabrics.
Needles
style
15
x
1,
(European
equivalent
System
705)
are
used
on
the
majority
of
household
sewing
machine.
They
•1
range
in
sizes
from
8
to
20
with
the
lower
number
indicating
the
finer
needle.
The
most
commonly
used
sizes
are
1
1
and
14.
An
alppose
needle
is
designed
to
handle
knits
as
well
as
woven
fabrics
It
eliminates
Extremely
heavy
I
6
skipped
stitches
and
the
slight
ball
will
not
damage
delicate
fabrics
This
is
the
needle
tarpaulin
sacking
‘
18
‘‘
to
,
‘
+payy
Dyy
,
provided
with
your
sewing
machine
and
will
be
used
for
most
of
your
sewing
A
larger
vu
duck
etc
4
8
i
ball
point
may
still
be
necessary
for
certain
knits,
such
as
bathing
suit
fabric
or
power
net.
I
yr.
‘i”
t.’.r.
Heavy
upholstery
8
?
‘
A
ball
pIe
is
recommended
for
use
with
tricots
jerseys
lingerie
and
power
nets
fabric
tIcking
1
18
‘
to
4
)I,evv
Duty
.
Unlike
sharp
pointed
needles
which
pierce
fibers
of
knit
fabrics
destroying
elasticity
the
denim
leatherette
10
ball
point
slips
between
fibers
preventing
damage
to
fabric
and
skipped
stitches
These
are
.
1.
available
in
fine
medium
and
heavy
ball
points
Medium
heavy
drapery
44
4
10
p
t,
r’
4
4’W
ij.
fabric
velveteen
16
to
t
Heavy
1uty
A
wedg
point
needle
is
recommended
for
use
with
feather
and
feather
look
vinyls
A
suItIng
felt
terry
etc
12
4L’”
f
(i
;3t
wedge
cutting
point
pierces
feather
more
easily
than
ordinary
sewing
machine
needles
.
.
.
4
.
‘
•‘.
:‘
.
‘,,,
W
‘
resulting
in
more
satisfactory
stitching.
Medium
broadcloth,
.
.
.,12
.
percale,
glniam,
linen,
,.
..
.14,
.
to
..
ii,
50
..
.
.
Eye
Shaft
Body
chintz,
taffeta
sheer
14
a
44)
Point
/
//
wool,
shantung,
etc.
/
.
.:
I
N
Sheer
voile,
lawn,
f-.__
dimity.
crepe,
11
60
/
handkerchief
linen,
film)
.•
*.:‘
Short
Groove
Long
Groove
Plastic
film
4
etc.
.
8
to
10
.
.,.
..
(Flat
Side
of
Needle)
(Round
Side
of
Needle)
Very
sheer
chiffon,
batiste,
lace,
organdy,
nylon
net,
marquisette,
etc.
Synthetic
Thread
Flat
Long
Groove
Elongated
Scarf
-.
Short
Groove
—s
Eye
9
Regular
Sharp
Needle
63
AIlpurpose
Medium
Wedge
Point
Needle
Bali
Point
Needle
Needle
0
9
Page 7
IANGING
NEEDLE
ways
change
the
needle
after
every
her
garment
especially
when
sewing
on
lyester
and
nylon
fabrics
which
dull
clles
much
faster.
When
needles
are
Il
or
bent,
they
damage
both
your
‘nc
arid
the
machine.
A
general
rule
en
placing
sewing
machine
needles
is
it
the
flat
side
of
the
needle
is
placed
the
back
of
the
machine,
when
the
l)binl
is
put
in
from
the
front.
If
the
edle
is
inserted
incorrectly,
the
stitches
-Il
not
form.
change
the
needle:
Raise
the
needle
bar
to
its
highest
position
by
turning
the
hand
wheel
toward
you.
Loosen
needle
clamp
to
remove
the
needle.
Place
needle
(flat
side
to
the
back
and
long
groove
to
the
front)
in
the
needle
clamp
and
push
it
upward
as
far
as
it
will
go,
tighten
needle
clamp.
After
changing
the
needle,
make
one
complete
turn
of
the
hand
wheel
by
hand
to
be
sure
the
needle
is
clearing
the
needle
plate.
-JANGING
NEEDLE
PLATE
though
an
all-purpose
utility
needle
ite
is
fixed
on
your
machine,
for
eight
sewing
on
fine
fabric
or
soft
or
y
stretchy
fabric,
you
may
want
to
use
straight
stitch
needle
plate
together
ih
the
straight
stitch
foot,
both
of
ich
are
included
in
your
accessory
box.
change
the
needle
plate,
remove
the
o
rews
holding
the
plate
in
place.
t
the
needle
plate
and
replace.
e
needle
plate
is
removed
for
cleaning
lint
which
may
pile
up
between
.dle
plate
and
feed
dogs.
SELECTION
OF
PRESSER
FOOT
For
most
ordinary
sewing
the
original
all-purpose
foot
can
be
used.
How
ever,
it
is
recommended
to
use
the
following
special
feet
in
your
accessory
box
whenever
you
want
a
better
stitching
result.
Straight
Stitch
Foot
This
has
only
a
narrow
hole
to
accom
rnodate
only
straight
stitching,
It
may
be
used
on
sheer
or
soft
fabrics
for
more
control.
When
using
this
foot,
the
Stitch
Width
Control
should
be
at
“M”
to
avoid
hitting
the
foot
and
breaking
the
needle.
Buttonhole
Foot
This
foot
has
a
groove
underneath,
to
allow
the
narrow
satin
stitch
or
buttonhole
to
form
evenly.
However,
if
skip
stitches
occur
on
sheer
fabrics
with
this
foot,
it
may
be
necessary
to
use
thin
paper
underneath.
Cording
&
ZIpper
Foot,
and
Button
Foot
Use
for
sewing
very
close
to
tire
edge
of
a
cord
or
zipper,
and
sewing
on
buttons
respectively.
CHANGING
PRESSER
FOOT
-
Use
the
large
screwdriver
to
loosen
thumb
screw.
Turn
the
screw
back
ward
until
the
tool
becomes
loose.
Then,
lift
up
on
presser
foot
lever
until
it
is
in
its
highest
position
in
order
to
remove
the
foot.
Replace
with
desired
toot
and
tighten
thumb
screw
securely.
II
t.
4t091t
-
.
it,
dI
tá
tha
Bad
Utility
Neadli
Plate
.r
411
UflJHHo
j
Straight
Stitch
Needle
Plate
*
o
43H
I
F1
iii
uuuJHH°J
11
Page 8
WINDING
BOBBIN
Disengage
the
hand
wheel
(1)
from
the
stitching
mechanism
by
turning
the
clutch
nut
(2)
toward
you
or
counter
clockwise.
Place
a
spool
of
thread
on
one
of
the
spool
pins
and
lead
thread
through
the
rear
Top
Thread
Guide
(3)
alter
winding
around
Bobbin
Winder
Tension
Disc.
Run
the
end
of
thread
through
a
hole
in
the
bobbin
edge
and
place
bobbin
on
spindle
of
bobbin
winder
(4)
fitting
the
notch
on
bobbin
over
small
spring
on
spindle.
Push
bobbin
winder
to
the
right,
and
hold
the
thread
end
loosely
then
start
machine
slowly,
and
bobbin
will
stop
turning
when
bobbin
is
full.
Cut
thread
and
push
bobbin
winder
to
the
left.
Remove
bobbin
from
bobbin
winder.
Turn clutch
nut
away
from
you
until
sewing
mechanism
is
again
engaged
so
that
needle
moves
when
you
turn
the
hand
wheel.
ADJUSTING
BOBBIN
WINDER
(A)
It
may
be
necessary
to adjust
of
rear
top
________
thread
guide
when
thread
winds
unevenly
___________
on
bobbin.
If
the
thread
winds
unevenly
on
bobbin
_______
as
shown
(A),
loosen
set
screw
of
rear
top
______
thread
guide
and
move
the
thread
guide
up
slightly.
If
the
thread
winds
as
shown
___________
12
move
the
thread
guide
down
slightly.
UPPER
THREADING
1.
Turn
the
hand
wheel
toward
you
to
raise
the
take-up
lever
to
its
highest
position.
2.
Place
a
spool
of
thread
on
the
spool
pin.
3.
Lead
the
thread
through
the
top thread
guides.
4.
Down
and
between
the tension
discs,
from
right
to
left.
5.
Draw
the
thread
up
through
the
check.spring
and
with
a
slight
tug
into
the
hook.
6.
Up
and
through
the
eye
of
take
up
lever
from
right
to
left.
7.
Lead
thread
down
through
the
thread
guide
at
the
bottom
of
the
threading
slot,
then,
through
the
thread
guide
on
needle
clamp.
8,
Thread
the
needle
FROM
FRONT
TO
BACK,
drawing
it
through
about
3
or
4
inches.
Hold
the
end
of
the
upper
thread
loosely
and
turn
the
hand
wheel
toward
you
until
the
needle
goes
all
the
way
down
and
comes
back
up.
A
thread
loop
will
form
over
the
upper
thread
which
then
can
be
pulled
out
straight.
Place
both
thread
ends
under
presser
foot
and
draw
toward
the
back
of
the
machine,
leaving
both
threads
three
or
four
inches
long.
In
case
of
twin
needle
sewing,
place
two
spools
of
thread,
matching
or
contrastingincolor,
one
on
each
spool
pin,
lead
both
threads
through
top
thread
guides,
bring
threads
down
and
pass
one
thread
between
the
back
discs
and
the
other
between
the
front
discs,
then
treat
both
thread
as
one
until
threading
each
thread
through
each
needle
eye
of
twin
needle.
‘.Ir
..t’
.
-.
..,,
___
‘I,
Page 9
THREADING
BOBBIN
CASE
1.
Hold
bobbin
case
between
thumb
and
forefinger
of
left
hand,
so
that
the
slot
in
the
edge
of
the
bobbin
case
is
on
top.
Take
the
bobbin
between
thumb
and
forefinger
of
right
hand
so
that
the
thread
on
top
leads
from
left
to
right.
2.
Insert
bobbin
into
bobbin
case,
pull
the
thread
into
the
slot
of
the
bobbin
case
and
draw
it
under
tension
spring
and
into
the
fork•shaped
opening
of
the
spring.
PLACING
BOBBIN
CASE
IN
SHUTTLE
Raise
needle
bar
to
its
highest
position,
and
swing
open
the
access
cover
down.
Hold
the
bobbin
case
latch
ID)
between
the
thumb
and
forefinger
of
the
left
hand,
with
at
least
three
inches
of
thread
running
from
the
top
of
the
bobbin
case
to
the
right,
Insert
and
center
the
bobbin
case
on
the
stud
of
the
shuttle
body
(C).
Be
sure
the
bobbin
case
finger
(E),
is
opposite
the
shuttle
race
notch
(A).
Press
the
bobbin
case
(8)
into
the
shuttle
as
far
as
possible
until
the
latch
catches
on
the
center
post
of
the
shuttle.
Then
release
the
bobbin
case
latch
(D).
Press
the
bobbin
case
again
after
the
latch
has
been
released
to
make
sure
the
bobbin
case
is
locked
securely
in
place.
Close
the
access
cover.
14
SELECTION
OF
STITCH:
STITCH
LENGTH
CONTROL
The
stitch
length
control
controls
tht
forward
feeding
of
the
fabric
in
ordinar
sewing.
At
0,
the
fabric
is
not
fed
at
all
With
the
control
around
the
symbol
fl
fot
buttonhole,
the
shortest
stitch
is
available
At
5
is
the
longest
—
about
6
stitches
pet
inch
on
ordinary
fabrics
—
but
the
control
may
be
set
at
any
desired
cpot
between
0
and
5
for
a
variety
of
length,
except
when
stretch
stitching
(triple
back
Wand-
forth
stitching),
the
control
is
automatically
set
at
the
relative
due
position
by
turning
the
Stretch
Stitch
Control
at
‘STRETCH
STITCH”
position.
Turn
the
control
to
the
right
to
lengthen
and
to
the
left
to
shorten
the
stitch.
The
stitch
length
number
you
choose
is
indicated
by
the
pointer
above
the
control.
The
stitch
length
in
stietch
stitching
(triple
reinforced
stitching)
is
fixed
about
3/64
inch,
on
most
kinds
of
fabrics
with
the
stretch
stitch
control
at
“STRETCH
STITCH”,
When
you
wish
to
sew
backward
to
tie
the
threads
at
the
beginning
or
end
of
a
seam
in
ordinary
sewing,
press
the
Reverse
Button
in
as
far
as
it
will
go,
so
that
your
machine
sews
in
reverse
at
approximately
the
same
stitch
length
as
forward
stitch
length.
The
machine
will
sew
backward
as
long
as
the
button
is
held
in.
Cross
reference
table
between
numeral
on
the
control
and
number
of
actual
stitches
per
inch
SECTION
lii
GETTING
TO
KNOW
YOUR
MACHINE
Slot
Slot
Tension
Spring
REVERSE
BUTTON
Numeral
on
the
control
Number
of
stitches
per
Inch
(approx.)
0
1
2
3
4
No
Feeding
30
25
15
8
6
15
Page 10
NH
DL.
E
POSITION/Si
I
rct-t
WIDTH/
BUTTONHOLE
CONTROL
this
dial
is
used
for
changing
needle
position.
stitch
width
at
Left
needle
position,
and
when
making
lour
-step
buttonhole.
Needle
Position:
Three
different
needle
position,
I
—
left,
M
middle
and
B
—
right
can
be
selected.
At
right
and
middle
needle
positions,
only
straight
sewing
is
available.
For
zigzag
and
other
pattern
sewings,
set
needle
position
at
L
—
left
needle
position.
•
Stitch
Width
at
Left
Needle
Position:
At
(L)
the
needle
does
not
swing,
therefore,
a
straight
line
of
sewing
results
no
matter
which
stitch
is
selected.
With
the
dial
at
1
or
narrow
zigzag
mark
the
needle
takes
a
narrow
swing
resulting
a
narrow
column
of
stitching.
At
5,
or
the
widest
zigzag
mark,
the
needle
takes
a
large
swing
resulting
in
a
wide
column
of
stitches.
In
case
of
twin
needle
sewing,
this
control
should
be
set
in
the
range
of
gray
bar
or
less
than
2Y,
otherwise
needle
hits
needle
plate.
Note:
It
is
mechanically
impossible
to
turn
the
dial
clockwise
further
than
widest
stitch
width
position,
therefore,
for
setting
the
dial
for
four-step
buttonholing
from
the
stitch
width
control
range,
turn
the
dial
counter
clockwise.
•
Buttonhole
Control:
The
first
buttonhole
picture
(step
1)
sews
in
forward
on
the
left
edge
of
buttonhole.
With
the
control
at
buttonhole
step
(2—4),
your
machine
does
not
feed
fabric
for
bartacking
the
button
hole
ends
and,
with
it
at
buttonhole
step
(3),
it
feeds
fabric
in
reverse
to
sew
the
right
button
hole
edge.
RELATING
STITCH
LENGTH
TO
STITCH
WIDTH
When
the
stitch
width
control
is
set
at
one
particular
width
(such
as
5
for
the
widest
zig
zag),
the
stitch
length
control
will
now
control
how
close
those
stitches
come
together.
At
length
0,
the
fabric
does
not
move,
resulting
in
a
bar
of
stitches
formed
one
on
top
of
the
other,
as
is
used
in
button
sewing.
At
the
symbol
fl
or
near
0,
the
feed
pulls
the
fabric
through
slowly,
resulting
in
a
dense
column
of
stitches
called
a
satin
stitch.
At
length
5,
a
very
long
open
zigzag
results.
STITCH
PATTERN
SELECTOR
STRETCH
STITCH
CONTROL
Selection
between
ordinary
stitching
and
triple
automatic
reinforced
stitching
called
stretch
stitch
is
made
by
the
stretch
stitch
control.
With
the
control
at
“N”
position,
ordinary
sewing
is
performed.
With
the
control
at
“STRETCH
STITCH”
position,
the
stitch
length
control
is
automatically
set
the
relative
due
position
and
your
machine
automatically
performs
the
stretch
stitch
with
the
repetition
of
two
forward
and
one
backward
stitch
combination.
A
reinforced
seam
of
stretch
stitch
that
will
stretch
considerably
more
than
the
fabric
used
is
the
most
wanted
feature
in
a
sewing
machine
today.
Its
uses
are
almost
unlimited
and
the
more
you
use
your
machine
the
more
it
will
become
apparent
to
you.
In
addition
to
straight
and
zigzag
stitches
of
both
ordinary
forward
and
special
automatic
back
and-forth
(stretch)
sewing,
16
different
kinds
of
utility
and
stretch
stitches
as
shown
on
the
panel
of
stitch
pattern
selection
table
can
be
selected.
The
numbers
marked
on
the
stitch
pattern
selector
knob
shows
the
selected
stitch
patterns
shown
on
the
panel
with
the
corresponding
numbers.
For
the
stitch
patterns
shown
in
the
upper
row
in
white
boxes,
set
the
stretch
stitch
control
at
“N”
position
for
forward
sewing.
For
those
in
the
lower
row
in
red
boxes
on
the
panel,
set
it
at
the
red
dot
position
marked
as
Stretch
Stitch
for
automatic
back-and-forth
(Stretch)
sewing
so
that
the
stitch
length
control
is
automati
cally
set
at
the
relative
due
position.
-
1111
•
—
—-
,‘m
,--
-
‘
‘‘••
16
WO
1
2
3
4
5
I
2¼
2¼
2’/
2¼
2¼
0
ii!!,!
17
Page 11
CONTHOLS:
ADJUSTING
THREAD
TENSIONS
Always
adjust
the
upper
thread
tension
with
the
presser
toot
down,
as
the
tension
is
released
when
it
is
raised.
To
increase
the
tension
on
the
.upper
thread,
turn
tension
control
to
the
right.
To
decrease,
turn
to
the
felt.
Before
adjusting
the
tension
be
sure
that
the
machine
is
threaded
property.
It
is
seldom
required
to
adjust
the
bobbin
thread
tension,
however,
when
necessary
to
change
bobbin
thread
tension,
turn
small
screw
on
side
of
the
bobbin
case
clockwise
to
tighter,,
counterclockwise
to
loosen.
When
both
tensions
are
property
balanced,
a
perfect
stitch
will
be
formed
with
both
threads
interlock
ing
in
fabric
(A).
When
the
upper
tension
is
too
tight,
the
bobbin
thread
is
pulled
up
over
the
upper
thread
which
is
lying
flat
on
the
fabric
(B).
When
the
upper
tension
is
too
loose,
the
upper
thread
forms
loops
over
the
bobbin
thread
lying
flat
on
the
fabric
(C).
When
the
upper
and
bobbin
thread
tensions
are
balanced
but
fabric
is
puckered
in
sheer
fabrics,
both
tensions
are
too
tight.
loosen
both
tensions
evenly.
It
is
recommended
to
adjust
the
tension
balance
with
a
medium
stitch
length.
In
case
of
satin
stitching
for
buttonholes
and
embroidery
slightly
loosen
the
upper
thread
tension.
ADJUSTING
PRESSURE
ON
FABRIC
AND
FEED
DOG
HEIGHT
•
General
Sewing
Usually
for
normal
sewing,
except
for
sewing
on
very
heavy
and
bulky
fabrics,
the
center
pin
(B)
of
the
pressure
control
should
be
at
its
lowest
position,
with
the
feed
dog
height
control
at
“UP”
position.
For
above
exceptional
fabrics,
reduce
half
the
pressure.
To
reduce
half
the
pressure,
press
the
outer
ring
(A)
of
the
pressure
control,
then
press
the
center
pin
(B)
down
again
to
halfway.
fr
(A)
(B)
(C)
Top
tension
too
tight
Fabric
Pressure
on
fabric
Feed
dog
height
Top
tension
too
loose
Ordinary
fabric
of
less
elasticity:
Heavy
end
bulky
fabrics
Half
Up
Medium
and
light
weight
fabrics
Full
Up
Very
stretchy
fabrics
and
knits:
Heavy
and
bulky
ones
Half
Up
Medium
and
tight
weight
and
Full
U
sheer
ones
p
C
Mending
and
Darning
In
order
to
move
the
fabric
freely
in
any
direction
for
darning
and
mendinq,
release
the
center
pin
(B)
completely
by
pressing
down
on
the
outer
ring
(A).
Turn
the
feed
dnq
height
control
to
“DOWN”
position,
which
drops
the
teed
dog
well
below
the
needle
plate,
To
return
the
feed
dog
height
to
normal,
turn
the
control
to
“UP”
position.
18
‘9
Page 12
SEWING
LIGHT
The
sewing
light
is
located
in
lace
cover
directly
over
the
needle
so
as
to
better
illumi
nate
the
sutching
area.
Turn
the
light
on
and
off
by
pressing
the
button
located
at
the
back
side
of
face
cover.
To
replace
bulb,
disconnect
the
plug
and
open
face
cover
to
the
left.
Unscrew
bulb
as
you
do
a
conventional
light
bulb.
Place
new
bulb
in
socket
and
screw
in
place.
SECTION
IV
PREPARING
TO
SEW
HOW
TO
SEW
Have
take-up
lever
at
highest
position
before
starting
to
sew.
Pinning
may
be
used
as
a
time
saver
instead
of
hand
basting.
It
is
possible
to
sew
over
pins
when
placed
at
right
angles
to
the
edge
of
fabric
with
the
pin
head
at
the
raw
edge,
but
for
best
results
it
is
recommended
that
the
pins
be
removed
as
you
approach
the
presser
foot.
Sewing
over
pins
can
result
in
damaged
needles.
Place
material
and
threads
under
presser
foot
and
lower
the
presser
foot.
Lower
the
needle
by
turning
hand
wheel
by
hand
to check
it
the
needle
will
pierce
the
stitching
line
you
want
to
sew.
You
are
now
ready
to
begin
sewing.
Press
the
speed
control.
The
speed
of
the
machine
is
regulated
by
increasingor
decreasing
the
amount
of
pressure
exerted
on
the
control.
Never
run
machine
without
material
under
presser
foot.
GUIDING
FABRIC
The
scale
is
etched
with
every
1/8
inch
distance
measured
from
the
center
of
needle
plate.
Let
the
edge
of
fabric
follow
the
line
selected
for
the
seam,
and
let
your
eyes
follow
the
etched
line
you
selected
for
the
seam,
not
the
needle,
during
sewing.
To
help
you
guide
the
fabric,
place
cloth
guide
attachment
securing
it
by
the
extra
thumb
screw
onto
machine
bedplate.
Cloth
guide
and
extra
thumb
screw
are
included
in
your
accessory
box.
Do
not
try
to
help
the
feeding
by
pulling
the
material
as
this
may
deflect
the
needle
and
cause
it
to
break.
TURNING
CORNERS
To
pivot
at
a
corner,
leave
the
needle
in
the
fabric
in
its
upward
stroke.
Lift
the
presser
foot,
turn
the
fabric,
then
lower
the
presser
foot
and
continue
sewing.
CURVED
SEAMS
Use
slightly
shorter
stitch
length
than
that
of
the
rest
of
the
seams.
On
the
part
where
elasticity
is
required
on
the
seam,
sew
by
stretch
stitch.
The
cloth
guide
may
he
used
on
angle
as
shown.
LOOSEN
21
Page 13
SEWING
ACROSS
HEAVY
SEAMS
When
approaching
heavy
seam,
hold
the
fabric
upward
on
an
angle
so
that
the
heavy
seam
talk
under
the
front
curve
of
presser
toot.
FREE-ARM
SEWING
For
sewing
tubular
and
hard-
to-reach
areas,
use
your
machine
as
a
free-arm.
Stitch
ing
buttonholes
or
sewing
buttons
on
a
cuff
or
neck
band;
topstitching
a
sleeve:
edge
finishes
on
sleeves,
pantlegs
and
waistlines;
darning
and
patching
knees,
elbows;
and
other
areas
of
wear
on
children’s
clothing
become
as
easy
as
sewing
a
common
seam
when
you
have-the
tree-arm
at
your
fingertips.
REMOVING
THE
WORK
Be
sure
to
stop
the
machine
when
the
thread
take-up
lever
or
needle
bar
is
at
the
highest
position.
Now
raise
the
presser
foot
and
draw
the
fabric
back
and
to
the
left
and
pass
the
threads
over
the
thread
cutter.
Pull
down
slightly,
holding
thread
in
both
hands,
so
as
not
to
bend
the
needle.
Leave
the
ends
of
threads
under
the
presser
foot.
STRAIGHT
STITCH:
SEAMS
The
normal
stitch
length
for
most
fabrics
is
between
2—3
but
the
length
chosen
should
depend
on
the
fabric
and
area
of
usage.
Usually,
heavier
fabrics
require
longer
stitches,
and
lighter
weight
fabrics
require
shorter
stitches.
For
curved
seams
and
bias
cut
areas
use
a
shorter
stitch
length.
Be
sure
to
set
the
stitch
width
control
at
M.
BASTINGFTOPST1TCHING
Sewing
a
seam
with
a
longer
stitch
is
useful
for
temporary
seams
prior
to
fitting.
Basting
stitches
also
may
be
used
when
gathering
in
fullness.
Topstitching
can
be
done
very
effectively
with
the
long
straight
stitch.
For
a
bolder
stitch,
two
threads
of
the
same
type
can
be
threaded
through
one
needle
(size
14
or
16).
A
heavier
thread
such
as
button
hole
twist
may
be
used
for
topstitching,
but
be
sure
to
use
a
larger
needle
(size
16
or
18).
DARNING
Worn
spots
or
small
holes
can
be
darned
very
easily.
Use
of
an
embroidery
hoop
is
optional
depending
o-’
the
fabric.
A
fine
threau
is
recommended
-,b
that
the
fabric
-
and
thread
will
blend
together
invisibly.
Trim
the
ragged
edges
from
the
area
to
be
darned.
Hold
the
threads
to
start,
then
move
the
fabric
slowly
backwards
and
forwards
while
running
the
machine
very
fast
to
fill
the
area.
Professional
results
will
be
attained
by
moving
the
fabric
in
a
figure
eight
pattern
white
sewing.
After
tilling
in
the
area
lengthwise.
reweave
with
crosswise
stitches
in
the
same
manner.
Pattern:
I
Length:
0
Needle
PosnionlWidth
M
Feed
Dog
Down
Preiture.
0
Fool:
All
Purpose
Stretch
Control
N
SECTION
V.
APPLICATIONS
OF
STITCHES
Pattern:
1
Length:
2—3
Needle
Position/Width:
M
Feed
Dog:
Up
Pressure:
Full
Foot:
Straight
Stitch
or
All
Purpose
Stretch
Control:
N
Pattern:
1
Length:
4—5
Needle
Position/Width:
0
Feed
Dog:
Up
Pressure:
Full
Foot:
Straight
Stitch
Stretch
Control:
N
II:
23
Page 14
CORDING/SEWING
IN
ZIPPER
w
Insert
Cording
(A)
Fold
bias
strip
of
fabric
over
cord.
Loosen
the
adjusting
screw
on
the
back
of
cording/zipper
foot
and
set
the
foot
to
the
left
of
needle.
(B)
Sandwich
the
welting
between
two
layers
of
fabric
with
tight
sides
together.
Stitch
a
second
time
with
cordinzipper
loot
to
the
right
of
needle
so
that
the
needle
stitches
close
to
the
cord
through
all
thicknesses.
•
Zippers
Swing
the
foot
to
left
or
right
of
the
needle
as
needed
so
that
the
foot
sews
very
close
to
zipper
teeth.
QUILTING
Parallel
straight
lines
are
easy
to
sew
with
the
quilting
guide.
To
attach
the
guide,
loosen
thumb
screw
and
slip
the
U-shaped
holder
of
the
guide
between
presser
foot
and
thumb
screw.
Tighten
the
thumb
screw
securely.
Adjust
the
curved
bar
to
the
desired
distance
from
the
needle.
Sew
the
first
line
of
stitching
as
desired,
then,
for
the
succeeding
rows
let
the
guide
follow
along
the
previous
stitch
line.
A
straight
stitch,
zigzag,
or
any
other
stitch
may
be
used.
24
Pattern:
1
Length:
1—3
Width:
5
Feed
Dog:
UP
Pressure:
Full
Foot:
All
Purpose
Stretch
Control:
N
Pattern:
I
Length:
1—3
Width:
1
Feed
Dog:
Up
Pressure:
Full
Foot:
All
Purpose
Stretch
Control:
N
Pattern:
1
Length:
0
Width:
2—5
Feed
Dog:
Down
Pressure:
Full
Foot:
Button
Foot
Stretch
Control:
N
ZIGZAG
STITCH:
OVERCASTING
Place
the
edge
of
the
material
underneath
the
opening
of
the
sewing
foot
and
guide
raw
edge
along
the
center
slot
of
the
foot
allowing
stitch
to
form
half
on
and
half
off
the
fabric.
The
multiple
stitch
zigzag
isawiser
choice
for
most
fabrics,
See
page
29.
SEWING
KNITS
The
narrow
zigzag
can
be
used
in
seams
of
firm
knits
for
added
strength.
After
sewing,
open
seam
and
press
flat.
Tiny
zigzag
stitches
can
hardly
be
seen
and
the
seam
will
give
when
stretched.
Generally
on
knits,
however,
try
the
straight
stretch
or
special
stretch
stitches.
See
page
35.
SEWING
ON
BUTTON
Place
the
button
so
its
left
hole
comes
directly
under
the
needle
of
its
left
zigzag
swing
then
gently
lower
the
button
loot.
Take
a
stitch
into
the
hole.
Raise
the
needle
from
the
left
hole,
and
mov
zigzag
width
t.or’trol
to
the
right
until
the
needle
comes
down
exactly
over
the
right
hole
in
the
button.
Note:
Be
9Jre
the
needle
clears
the
holes
of
the
button
by
moving
the
wheel
by
hand
befote
running
the
machine
fast.
Usually
6
to
8
stitches
are
adequate
for
securing
a
button
in
place.
Slop
with
the
needle
in
the
left
hole.
To
lock
the
threads,
set
the
stitch
width
at
0,
and
take
a
few
stitches
in
the
left
hand
hole.
II
25
Page 15
•
With
a
Thread
Shank
Buttons
sewn
on
coats
or
jackets
should
have
a
thread
shank
to
make
them
stand
away
from
the
fabric.
To
form
a
thread
shank,
sew
over
a
pin
or
rounded
tooth
pick.
After
stitching
the
button
to
the
fabric,
remove
work
from
under
the
presser
foot
leaving
threads
about
six
inches
from
fabric.
Remove
pin
or
toothpick.
Pull
the
threads
to
back
of
button
and
form
a
shank
between
button
and
fabric
by
winding
threads
tightly
around
the
attaching
stitches.
Pull
threads
to
back
of
the
fabric
and
tie
thread
ends
securely.
SATIN
STITCHING
This
is
useful
for
decoration
such
as
tapering,
manual
designed
embroidery,
monogramming
and
applique.
The
satin
stitch,
which
is
really
just
a
very
close
zigzag
stitch,
is
obtained
by
setting
the
stitch
length
as
near
to
“0”
as
possible
without
stopping
the
feeding
action
or
at
the
symbol
fl
.
The
setting
will
vary
for
different
fabrics.
It
may
be
desirable
to
loosen
the
upper
tension
slightly
to
cause
the
threads
to
lock
underneath
in
order
to
make
the
top
surtace
look
especially
smooth.
For
lightweight
fabrics,
place
a
paper
underneath
the
fabric
for
best
results.
Pattern:
1
Length:
[J
Width:
1—5
Feed
Dog:
Up
Pressure:
Full
Foot:
All
Purpose
Stretch
Control:
N
Paltern
1
Length
0
Width:
1-S
Feed
Dog
Down
Pressure:
0
Foot:
All
Purpose
Stretch
Control:
N
Step
1:
P.ttern:
I
Length:
1
Width:
0—2
Feed
Dog:
Up
Pressure:
Full
Foot:
All
Purpose
Stretch
Control:
N
Step
2:
Pettern:
1
Length:
Width:
2—F
Feed
Dog:
Up
Pressure:
Full
Foot:
All
Purpose
Stretch
Control:
N
FREEHAND
MONOGRAMMING
For
giving
garments
and
linens
a
personali
ed
touch,
first
transfer
the
design
to
ti
right
side
of
the
fabric.
An
embroide:
hoop
is
recommended
especiatly
for
so
fabrics
and
toweling.
In
order
to
monogram,
you
must
mo
the
labric
slowly
and
run
the
machit
rapidly,
Monogramming
is
like
writing
I
moving
the
paper
under
a
stationary
pe
Guide
the
fabric
slowly
so
that
the
iiqz
falls
close
together
like
a
satin
stitch,
but
I
careful
that
the
stitches
do
not
pile
u
When
guiding
froWn
side
to
side,
mo
fabric
slightly
faster
to
avoid
a
heavy
are
Practice
by
forming
loops.
Once
this
accomplished
any
letter
is
easy.
Sometimes
the
use
of
paper
or
non-wovt
interlacing
under
the
fabric
may
mal
guiding
the
fabric
easier.
The
paper
interfacing
may
be
torn
or
cut
away
at
t
completion
of
the
monogram.
When
moni
gramming
towels,
plastic
film
placed
on
t
top
will
help
cover
loops
and
make
t
monogram
smooth.
Pull
or
cut
ewe
remaining
plastic
film
when
finished.
APPLIQUE
Applyingdecorative
shapes
of
fabric
scrap
to
household
articles
and
clothing
is
a
ver
interesting
way
of
trimming
an
otherwis
plain
article.
First,
trace
the
design
oi
fabric
to
be
appliqued,
then
pin
or
baste
i
securely
in
place
on
garment.
With
a
sm&
straight
stitch
or
narrow
zigzag,
sew
arount
the
traced
design.
At
the
excess
fabric
is
trimmed
away,
sev
around
the
applique
with
a
satin
stitch.
Fo
a
smooth
curve,
stop
frequently
at
the
insidt
edge
of
the
curve
to
pivot
the
fabric
slightly
Corners
look
much
helter
when
the
point
i
stitched
by
pivoting
rather
than
just
turned
As
with
all
decorative
stitches,
paper
may
bt
used
to
give
more
body
to
the
fabric
wher
stitching
and
can
be
torn
away
when
tht
applique
is
completed
26
Page 16
GATHERING
OVER
A
CORD
SEWING
TIPS
Ordinary
gathering
with
a
basting
stitch
of
ten
breaks
thread
while
pulling
in
full
ness.
A
small
zigzag
across
a
cord
such
as
crochet
thread
or
carpet
thread,
gives
a
much
stronger
cord
for
gathering
fullness
into
fabrics.
Once
the
gathers
have
been
stitched
in
place,
the
cord
can
be
pulled
out
in
order
to
eliminate
bulk.
LACE
APPLICATION
Pattern:
1
Length:
2
Width:
2—3
Feed
Dog:
Up
Pressure:
Full
Foot:
All
Purpose
Stretch
Control:
N
Attaching
laces
or
trims
adds
a
special
touch
to
lingerie,
dresses,
or
linens.
Pin
or
baste
lace
in
place
easing
or
mitering
corners
where
necessary.
A
straight
edged
lace
or
braid
has
a
convenient
line
to
follow
when
sewing.
When
using
a
scalloped
edged
lace,
follow
the
design
of
the
face
for
an
almost
invisible
application.
Pattern:
1
Length:
34—1
Width:
1—3
Feed
Dog:
Up
Pressure:
Full
Foot:
All
Purpose
Stretch
Control:
N
When
a
dainty
hair
line
finish
is
particularly
desirable
for
the
inside
seams
of
sheer
collars,
facings,
and
yokes,
seam
allowance
that
would
ordinarily
show
through
is
eliminated
by
following
the
seam
outline
with
a
narrow
zigzag
stitch,
Trim
seam
allowance
close
to
line
of
stitching.
Turn
and
press.
Pattern:
1
Length:
34—1
Width:
34—2
Feed
Dog:
Up
Pressure:
Full
Foot:
All
Purpose
Stretch
Control:
N
MULTIPLE
STITCH
ZIGZAG
The
multiple
stitch
zitzag
can
be
used
for
hundreds
of
various
kinds
of
sewing
appli
cations,
such
as
replacing
worn
blanket
bindings
for
both
a
decorative
and
durable
finish,
overcasting
an
edge
to
prevent
fraying,
applying
elastic
waist
bands
to
skirts
and
dresses,
sewing
a
zigzag
stitch
on
soft
or
sheer
material
preventing
puckering,
etc.
Just
sew
like
ordinary
zigzag
stitching.
FLUTTER
HEM
An
unusual
way
of
hemming
or
finishing
edges
of
tricot
or
soft
knits
is
by
a
flutter
edge.
Hemming
in
this
manner
is
just
like
overcasting
an
edge,
but
the
!abric
is
stretched
in
back
and
in
front
of
the
needle
as
you
sew.
For
best
results,
pull
the
fabric
equally,
making
sure
the
needle
goes
over
the
edge.
When
you
stop
to
reposition
your
hands,
keep
the
needle
in
the
fabric.
Pattern:
1
Length:
34—34
Width:
4—5
Feed
Dog:
High
Pressure:
Full
Foot:
All
Purpose
Stretch
Control:
N
Pattern:
9
Stitch
Length:
4—5
Width:
3—5
Feed
Dog:
Up
Pressure:
Full
Foot:
All
Purpose
Stretch
Control:
N
29
Page 17
INTERLOCK
STITCH
For
a
very
fine,
delicate
seam
in
nylon
tricot
or
jersey,
the
interlock
is
used.
Lingerie
or
tricot
seams
should
only
be
about
1/8
inch
in
finished
width.
Just
sew
like
ordinary
zigzag
stitching.
Shell
tuck
on
soft
knitsisalso
produced
with
this
stitch
by
swinging
the
zigzag
to
the
right
of
the
folded
edge
of
the
fabric
placed
its
bulk
part
to
the
left.
TWIN
NEEDLE
SEWING
Attractive
parallel
straight
stitch
effects
and
decorative
zigzag
patterns
can
be
easily
made
by
sewing
with
the
twinneedle,
and
they
are
very
effective
for
various
kinds
of
garment
finish
sewing
such
as
top
stitching,
needle
position
should
be
at
left
needle
position
and
border
sewing,
etc.
Except
buttonhole
stitches,
all
built.in
special
stitch
patterns
can
be
applied
with
the
twin
needle
sewing.
In
case
of
twin
needle
sewing,
the
stitch
width
control
should
be
at
less
number
than
“2’/”
or
in
gray
bar
making.
The
use
of
color.
matched
or
contrasted
threads
will
result
in
a
more
attractive
finish.
Note:
Use
left
needle
position
sewing
and
zigzag
needle
plate,
when
twin
needle
sewing.
Pattern:
Any
length:
1—5
Wdih:
Less
than
24
Foot:
All-purpose
Needle
Position:
I
only
BUTTONHOLES:
Var,ous
fabrics
require
various
methods
of
sew
ing
buttonholes.
Three
different
methods
ar
given
below,
with
suggested
uses.
If
you
are
ir
doubt
as
to
which
method
is
best
for
your
fabric
test
the
methods
in
question
and
choose
the
besi
according
to
the
finished
appearance.
PREPARATION
For
the
best
results,
a
good
quality
mercerizec
cotton
thread
should
be
used.
Polyester
thread
often
result
in
puckered
or
heavy
unaltractivi
buttonholes.
The
finer
your
fabric
is,
the
fine.
your
cotton
thread
should
be.
An
interfacing
should
be
used
under
the
button
holes
to
give
body,
to
strengthen,
andtohalf
them
withstand
wear.
To
establish
the
correct
length
of
the
buttonhole
add
the
length
of
the
button
(A).
plus
thi
thickness
of
the
button
(B),
plus
1/32
inch
to
the
bartacks.
The
length
maybemarked
on
thi
garment
with
a
basting
stitch,
tailor’s
chalk,
or
at
invisible
cellophane
tape,
as
shown.
Horizonta
buttonholes
should
extend
1/8
inch
beyond
!h
centerline
of
the
garment.
Vertical
buttonhole
are
placed
so
that
the
cutting
space
of
thi
buttonhole
is
directly
on
the
center
line.
Always
makeapractice
buttonhole
on
a
scrap
of
the
gaiment
fabric
before
making
any
button
holes
on
your
garment.
On
your
test
sample
duplicate
the
thicknesses
found
in
the
garrrlen
and
be
suretoinclude
the
interfacing.
The
tes
sample
should
help
determine
the
length
needec
for
the
button
to
pass
through
the
hole
easily
as
well
as
the
stitch
length
needed
for
thi
particular
fabric.
As
with
the
satin
stitch,
tht
stitches
should
be
close
together,
hut
not
So
cfos4
that
they
pile
up.
Be
sure
to
use
the
buttonholi
foot.
Pattern:
8
Length:
2
Width:
S
Feed
Dog:
Up
Pressure:
Full
Foot:
Alt
Purpose
Stretch
Control:
N
A
nch
Center
line
of
1/8
inch
Garment
I
I
F,
‘S
(
(
I
Center
Line
of
Garment
30
Page 18
BUILT-IN
BUTTONHOLE
2
TURN-AROUND
BUTTONHOLE
I
his
buttonhole
eliminates
the
need
for
pivoting
the
fabric.
It
is
used
most
often
on
light
and
medium
woven
fabric.
The
stitch
length
control
should
be
at
“BUTTON
HOLE”
mark
or
near
0
not
to
stop
feeding
action.
A
buttonhole
of
about
3/16
inch
width
can
be
made
by
simply
turning
stitch
width
control
from
buttonhole
position
1
to
2,
3
and
4
in
sequence
on
the
stitch
width
cotnrol
panel.
1
Set
the
stitch
width
control
for
the
red
square
marked
(1)
buttonhole
position.
Lower
needle
into
the
mark
at
the
top
left
end
of
buttonhole
Lower
presser
foot
and
sew
on
the
left
edge
of
buttonhole
until
you
reach
the
bottom
end
of
buttonhole.
2.
With
the
needle
up
and
the
control
to
the
(2—4>
Position
take
a
few
stitches
to
bartack
the
buttom
end
of
buttonhole.
3.
With
the
needle
up,
turn
the
stitch
width
control
to
the
(3)
position.
Sew
on
the
right
edge
of
buttonhole.
At
this
position
the
machine
is
feeding
in
reverse.
4.
With
the
needle
out
of
the
cloth,
turn
again
to
the
(2—4)
position
and
complete
the
buttonhole
by
bartacking
on
the
top
edge
of
buttonhole.
5.
To
lock
the
stitches,
make
sure
the
needle
is
out
of
the
fabric
and
set
the
control
at
L
and
feed
dog
height
down.
Then
take
a
few
stitches.
6.
To
prevent
cutting
through
the
bartack
insert
a
straight
pin
through
the
bartack.
Cut
buttonhole
open.
Pattern;
1
Length:
Buttonhole
1
2-4
3
2-4
Width
[]
-El
-
Feed
Dog:
Up
Pressure:
Full
Foot:
Buttonhole
Foot
Stretch
Stitch:
N
,
%
•.0
‘U
1.
Place
material
under
presser
foot
to
sew
the
topofmarked
buttonhole.
Turn
feed
dog
height
control
to
DOWN,
stitch
width
control
at
5
take
few
stitches
to
bartack
the
end
of
the
buttonhole.
2.
Turn
feed
dog
height
to
up,
set
stitch
width
control
at
2,
then,
sew
down
the
left
edge
of
marked
buttonhole
and
finish
stitching
with
needle
in
fabric
at
the
right
side
of
stitches.
Set
feed
dog
at
DOWN.
3.
Lift
presser
foot
and
pivot
the
fabric
around,
then
lower
presser
foot
and
take
one
stitch
to
left
turning
hand
wheel
by
hand.
4.
With
stitch
width
control
at
5,
takeafew
stitches,
to
bartack
another
endofmarked
buttonhole.
5.
With
feed
dog
to
UP
and
stitch
width
at
2,
sew
down
other
edge
of
marked
buttonhole.
6.
Lock
thread
by
stitching
a
few
stitches
at
0
width
and
feed
dog
height
DOWN.
Cut
center
open
space
of
buttonhole
carefully
so
as
not
to
cut
into
the
stitches,
as
illustrated
previously.
Note:
Try
Stretch
Blind
Hem
for
reinforcing
buttonhole,
<Eyelash
buttonhole).
CORDED
BUTTONHOLE
Cording
gives
a
reinforced
raised
buttonhole.
It
is
excellent
for
use
on
bulky,
woven
fabric,
or
knits
in
whch
the
stitching
jltssn
gets
buried
and
makes
cutting
difficult.
On
knits,
a
corded
buttonhole
will
help
keep
the
fabric
from
stretching
out
of
shape.
Choose
a
heavy
cotton
crochet
thread
or
button
hole
twisttouse
for
the
cording.
Proceed
as
for
the
turn-around
buttonhole
having
cord
under
the
presser
foot
in
such
a
way
that
the
zigzag
stitch
covers
the
cord.
At
the
completion
of
the
buttonhole
snip
the
excess
cord
close
to
the
bartack
on
woven
fabrics.
For
knitted
garments,
always
pull
the
cords
to
the
wrong
side
by
using
a
darning
needle
or
needle
threader,
and
knot
the
cord
ends
I
L
Ii
4
5
6
2
U
Pattern:
1
Langth
Buttonhole
Width:
5—2—5—2—0
Feed
Dog;
Down-UP-Down-UP-Down
pressure:
Full
Foot:
ButtonhOle
Foot
Stretch
Control;
N
flH
unlu’
Pattern;
1
length:
Buttonhole
Width:
5—2—5—2—0
Feed
Dog:
Down-Up-Down-Up-Down
Pressure:
Full
Foot:
Buttonhole
Foot
Stretch
Control:
N
32
before
clipping.
33
Page 19
BLIND
HEM
&
STRETCH
BLIND-
HEM
STITCHES
The
blind
hem
or
stretch
blind
hem
stitch
provides
a
durable
hem
finish
that
is
almost
invisible
on
garments,
drapes,
and
curtains,
It
is
done
easily
with
straight
or
slightly
curved
hems.
With
a
little
practice
it
will
be
a
very
quick
and
easy
hem
application
and
the
hem
will
never
need
repairing.
Procedure:
(1)
Prepare
raw
edge
of
hem
in
desired
manner,
such
as
overcast,
6
inch
stitch
ed
under
pinked,
hem
tape,
or
lust
plain.
(Step
1)
(2)
Fold
hem
up
desired
length.
Baste
or
pin
t
h
inch
from
upper
edge.
Press
in
place.
(Step
2)
(3)
Fold
bern
back
toward
right
side
of
fabric
leaving
about
¼
inch
extended.
(Step
3)
(4)
Guide
the
told
of
the
fabric
into
the
center
cut
of
the
presser
foot
so
that
the
wide
zigzag
bite
of
the
stitch
comes
lust
slightly
to
the
left
of
the
center
cut
of
the
presser
foot.
The
straight
or
narrow
zigzag
stitches
should
be
formed
on
the
single
thickness
of
fabric,
and
the
zigzag
width
bite
should
catch
just
barely
into
the
fold
of
the
fabric
at
the
left.
(5)
When
stitching
is
completed,
remove
fabric
from
machine
and
turn
to
right
side.
Press
completed
hem.
When
hemming
an
A-line
skirt,
place
a
machine
basting
stitch
along
the
raw
edge
of
the
hem.
At
an
ironing
board,
fold
up
the
hem,
matching
the
seams.
Ease
in
the
excess
fabric
by
pulling
on
basting
thread.
Press
with
steam,
then
apply
hem
tape.
Baste
or
pin
hem
¼”
from
taped
edge,
the
continue
intostep3.
Pattern:
2or3
Length:
2—3
Width:
3—5
Feed
Dog:
Up
Pressure:
Full
Foot:
All
Purpose
Stretch
Control:
N
A
A
STRETCH
STITCHES:
STRAIGHT
STRETCH
STITCH
This
stitch
may
be
used
on
knits
and
wovens
in
areas
of
stress
as
a
reinforce
ment
stitch.
It
is
excellent
for
curved
seams
such
as
armholes
and
crotch
seams.
For
active
wear
such
as
ski
pants
and
girdle
fabrics
which
endure
a
lot
of
stress
in
bending
and
stretching,
this
stitch
may
be
used
for
seaming
throughout
the
garment.
With
stretch
stitch
control
at
“STRETCH
STITCH”
position,
sew
in
same
manner
as
for
ordinary
sewing.
CAUTION
—
It
is
difficult
to
remove
this
stitch
from
fabric.
Pre-fit
garment
before
using
this
stitch.
RICK-RACK:
This
is
a
most
common
triple
backand
forth
zigzag
stitch
for
decorative
uses,
with
more
elasticity
than
regular
zigzag.
STRETCH
OVERLOCK,
ELASTIC
EDGING,
STITCHand-OVERCAST,
OVERLOCK,
FEATHER
STITCHES
These
stretch
stitches
are
best
for
seaming
and
overcast,
edgestitching
and
decorative
effects
on
both
woven
and
knit
fabrics
such
as
lingerie,
sweater
knits,
bathing
suit
knits,
cotton
knits,
or
gauze
type
fabrics.
t’atirrr,
2,36,P,9
t
eriqil
A,,tc,,,,ai,,
Sell
Wdth
S
rf’iJ
Driq
tip
l’,r’ssiie
r
,,li
r
001
All
Pij’p’i’,r
SiipI.l’
(;orlrol
ST
lIt
lUll
Ill
Ill
III
III
‘U
‘I’
“I
Step
1
cm
Step
2
Step
3
Step
4
•
Topgtitch
Effect
Because
this
stitch
is
heavier
than
an
ordinary
straight
stitch,
it
is
ideal
for
lop-
stitching,
particularly
on
knits.
Pattern
1
Length
Automatic
Setting
Width
M
Feed
Dint
U
Pressure
Full
Foot:
All
Purpose
Stretch
Control
SI
HE
TCll
Paltern:
I
length:
Automatic
Set,
np
Width:
25
Feed
Dog:
Up
Pressure:
Full
Foot:
All
purpose
Stretch
Control
STRETCH
Step
5
2
34
3
6
)
Y
V
9
/\
/‘
/\
/\
3!
Page 20
APP
L
IC
AT
IONS:
On
most
knits,
3/16
inch
finished
seam,
such
as
stretch
overlock
and
other
special
ultrastietch
stitches
ae
more
desirable
than
a
5/8
inch
opened
seam
allowance.
These
stitches
can
create
a
neater,
more
professional
finish,
eliminate
bulky
seams,
prevent
curling,
permit
the
garment
to
“give”
under
stress,
and
at
the
same
time
they
cut
down
on
the
amount
of
work
involved
in
making
a
garment.
If
ever
in
doubt
as
to
which
of
those
stitches
to
use,
test
them
on
the
particular
fabric
in
question
and
choose
according
to
their
performance.
Its
uses
are
almost
unlimited
and
the
more
you
use
your
machine
the
more
it
will
become
apparent
to
you.
•
Elastic
Application
Fold
fabric
over
the
elastic
and
stitch
elastic
and
fabric
at
one
time,
using
stretch
overlock,
elastic
ed9ing,
or
other
special
stretch
stitch.
The
doóble
layer
of
fabric
next
to
the
elastic
should
be
stitched
with
the
oneside
of
special
stretch
seam
and
the
elastic
should
be
caught
by
another
side.
•
Overiock
Application
Special
stretch
stitches
are
also
very
usable
for
overlock
stitching
on
both
woven
and
knit
fabrics.
(A)
Place
the
raw
edge
of
the
fabric
under
the
presser
foot
so
that
as
the
needle
swings
to
the
right,
it
comes
down
at
the
raw
edge.
This
will
result
in
an
enclosed
seam
allowance.
(B)
The
seam
allowances
may
be
trimmed
to
1/4
inch
either
before
or
after
sewing.
If
trimming
before
sewing,
proceed
as
above.
Otherwise,
sew
the
seam
with
the
raw
edge
of
the
fabric
on
the
etched
guide
line
1/2”.
(Any
time
you
use
the
full
width
of
a
particular
stitch,
you
should
readiust
the
raw
edge
of
the
fabric
1/8
inch
to
the
left.)
Afterward,
trim
the
excess
fabric
near
the
stitching.
This
method
is
actually
easier
than
the
overedge
method
for
fabrics
that
curl.
Note:
On
soft,
loose
knits,
the
fabric
may
seem
to
wave
or
ripple.
If
this
occurs,
reduce
the
pressure
on
fabric.
(C)
Applying
Elastic
The
specIal
stretch
stitch
Qive
a
very
fini
appearance
to
elastIc
application.
DECORATIVE
STITCHES
Belowshown
stitches
are
very
useful
for
dec
live
stitching
and
edging
on
both
woven
and
I
fabrics.
N
SS
1
.‘-••‘
Scallop
<‘<‘k
Oa
5
Domino
‘1,,\
Crow.
7.
1
Checker
‘)(‘
Cross
>ç
<
zo
5
x
Page 21
F
OILING
MACHINE
Use
only
a
good
sewing
machine
oil,
do
not
use
any
common
household
oils.
Your
machine
should
be
oiled
occasionally
to
keep
it
operating
smoothly.
How
often
depends
on
the
amountofsewing
you
do.
Once
a
month
oil
your
machine
thoroughly
as
indicated
by
the
arrows
on
illustrations,
specifically
those
point
marked
in
red
on
your
machine.
Place
a
single
drop
to
avoid
over
oiling.
CLEANING
AND
OILING
1
SHUTTLE
AREA
The
stitch
forming
mechanism
occash
ly
becomes
clogged
with
loose
thr
and
lint.
This
will
interfere
with
efficient
operation
of
the
maci
Cleaning
and
removal
of
the
lint
safeguard
the
performance.
To
remove
the
shuttle
assembly,
pro
as
follows:
1.
Turn
hand
wheel
until
the
rn
reaches
its
highest
position.
Tilt
back
on
its hinges.
2.
Remove
bobbin
case
(A).
3.
Turn
the
two
shuttle
race
cover
cli
(0
outward
and
remove
the
shi
race
cover
(C)
and
the
shuttle
I
(El
and
the
lint
cleaner
(0).
4.
Clean
the
shuttle
race,
the
shuttle
shuttle
race
cover
by
removinl
threads,
lint,
etc.
When
the
cleaning
has
been
completed,
proceed
as
follows
to
replace
the
shuttle
assert
1.
Turn
hand
wheel
until
the needle
reaches
its
highest
position.
2.
Place
lint
cleaner
(0)
to
shuttle
driver
and
shuttle
body
(El
in
race
(F)
against
shi
driver
and
adjust
into
position.
3.
Replace
shuttle
race
cover
(C),
fitting
pin
at
lower
edge
into
notch,
and
lock
position
with
shuttle
race
cover
clamps
(f),
making
certain
the
clamps
have
snapped
securely
into
position.
4,
Put
bobbin
(8)
into
bobbin
case
(A).
5.
Put
the
bobbin
case
into
the
shuttle,
fitting
tongue
(a)
into
notch
(c)
of
race
cover
6.
Place
a
single
drop
of
oil
on
shuttle
body
as
indicated
by
arrow
on
illustration.
j
SECTION
VI
CARE
AND
MAINTENANCE
OF
YOUR
MACHINE
)“‘.
Page 22
PROBLEM
AND
REMEDIES
Trouble
Probable
Cause
Remedies
II
Machine
Minds
Skipping
Stitch..
Upper
thr.ed
tension
too
loose.
Improper
threading.
lobbin
not
wound
evenly.
Pullingorholding
material.
Not
enough
tension
on
upp.r
thread.
Poor
quality
thread.
Needle
too
fIn.
tot
thread
being
used.
Starting
with
take-up
In
incorrect
position.
Improper
setting
of
needle.
Bent
or
eye
of
needle
too
diem.
Sent
or
blunt
needle.
Tension, too
tight.
Dull
ne.die.
Stitch
length
too
long.
Stitch
length
control
Ia
set
at
other
than
Number
5,
Clean
and
oil
machin,
the
shuttle
area.
(Sea
page
39.)
Place
needle
correctly.
(See
page
10.)
Replace
needle
or
thr.ad
to
conform
each
other.
(See
page
9.)
Place
a
piper
beneath
fabric, or
use
Hill
Point
needle.
Tighten
upper
tension.
See
threading
Instruction,
peg.
13.
Adjust
bobbin
winder.
(See
page
12)
Avoid
pulling
or
holding
material,
just
ride
it.
Increase
tension.
Try
different
thread.
Se.
needle
and
threed
chart.
page
9.
Refer
to
threading
instructions,
see
page 13,
and
rethr.ed
machine.
L.ooin
upper
thread
tension.
Seepage
18.)
Always
start
sewing
with
takeup
lever
in
highest
position.
Refer
to
needle
setting
instruction,
see
peg.1O.
Try
a
new
needle.
Discard
all
blunt
or
bent
needles and
replace
with
new.
See
tension
adjustment,
page
18.
Change
needle.
Reduce
stitch
length.
Set
stitch
length
control
at
Number
5
Remove
needle
plete
and
clean
lint from
feed
dog.
Thread
or
lintinraceway.
Bent
needle.
Needle
placed
incorrectly
in
clamp.
Too
fine
a
needie
for
thread
being
used.
Too
stretchy
fabric.
Replace
with
new
needle.
(See
page
10j
Irregular
.•‘r
‘‘.
Upper Thread
Bribing
.:,..
.
Material
Puc.ring
Machine
noisy
•
material
wil
not
feed
In
atiitch
itltchlng.
Improperly
tttreeded.
Too
much
tendon.
If
your
machine
skips
stitches
only
on
certain
fabrics,
try
all
of the
procedures
on
the
previous
page
before
calling
a
repair-man.
Check
the
needle
plate
area,
if
there
are
scratches
and
marks
around
the
needle
hole
opening,
your
machine
is
not
being
cleaned
properly.
Always
remove
the
needle
plate
and
clean
the
feed
dogs
periodically,
Improper
and
lack
of
cleaning
will
cause
an
accumulation
of
lint
which
hampers
the
feeding
mechanism,
this
in
turn
will
cause
the
operator
to
impatiently
pull
or push
the
cloth
causing
the
needle
to bend
and
strike
the
plate,
toot
or
hook,
causing
a
slip
in
the
timing
mechanism.
Continuous
striking
will
cause
defects
making
it
necessary
to
call
a
serviceman,
Lint
In
feed
dog.
Loading...