Whirlpool 3397616 User Manual

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Page 1

Large Capacity Thin Twin Washer•Dryer – 120/240 Volt

Home Appliances

Installation Instructions

IMPORTANT: Read and save these instructions.

IMPORTANT: Installer: Leave Installation Instructions

with the homeowner.

Homeowner: Keep Installation Instructions

for future reference.

Save Installation Instructions for local

electrical inspector’s use.

www.whirlpool.com

Part No. 3397616 Rev. B

Page 2

Water heater: Set to deliver 140°F water to the washer.

Laundry tub drain system: Needs a 20-gallon laundry tub. Top of tub must be at least 34 inches high and no higher than 72 inches from floor.

If a longer drain hose is needed, drain hose (Part No. 388423) and hose extension kit (Part No. 285442) are available from a Whirlpoolauthorized parts distributor.

Dryer may be exhausted from the rear or left or right side. Exhausting through the side requires Part No.

279823. See “Exhaust requirements,” Panels C and D.

Four-inch metal exhaust vent is required.

SEE RECESSED AREA INSTRUCTIONS ON PANEL G.

Important: Observe all governing codes and ordinances.

Check location where washer/dryer will be installed. Proper installation is your responsibility. The washer/dryer must not be installed or stored in an area where it will be exposed to water and/or weather. Make sure you have everything necessary for correct installation.

Panel A

Location: Should be large enough to

fully open dryer door to 90°. See Panel G for “Recessed and closet installation instructions” and “Product dimensions.”

Grounded electrical connection is required. See “Electrical requirements.”

Standpipe drain system: Needs a two-inch diameter standpipe with minimum carry-away capacity of 17 gallons per minute. Top of standpipe must be at least 34 inches high and no higher than 72 inches from floor.

Floor drain system requires a siphon break, Part No. 285320, available from a Whirlpool-authorized parts distributor.

Do Not store or operate washer/dryer below 32°F (some water may remain in washer). Proper operation of dryer cycles requires temperatures above 45°F. See Use & Care Guide for “Winterizing” information.

Tools and materials needed for installation:

Check code requirements: Some codes limit or do not permit installation of clothes dryers in garages, closets, mobile homes and sleeping quarters. Contact your local building inspector.

Hot and cold water faucets: Must be within

4 feet of the back of the washer/dryer and provide water pressure of 5 -100 PSI.

Electrical requirements

A four-wire or three-wire, single-phase, 120/240-volt, 60-Hz, AC-only electrical supply (or four-wire or three-wire, 120/208-volt, if specified on the model/serial rating plate) is required on a separate, 30-ampere circuit, fused on both sides of the line. A time-delay fuse or circuit breaker is recommended. The model/serial rating plate is located in the door well behind the dryer door on the front of the opening.

It is the personal responsibility and obligation of the customer to contact a qualified electrician to assure that the electrical installation is adequate and in conformance with the National Electrical Code, ANSI/NFPA 70 — latest edition*, and all local codes and ordinances.

Untape and open washer lid. Remove packages and hoses from washer.

Drain hose may also be installed to a laundry tub or floor drain system. See Panel F.

level

Phillips screwdriver

pliers

utility knife

safety glasses

gloves

adjustable wrench (two may be required)

flat-blade screwdriver

Check utilities: Proper, water and

electrical supply connections must be available.

Support: Floor must be sturdy enough to support washer/dryer weight, with water and clothes, of 500 pounds.

Level floor:

1-inch maximum slope under entire washer/dryer.

Copies of the standards listed above may be obtained from:

* National Fire Protection Association

Batterymarch Park Quincy, Massachusetts 02269

Power supply cord

Local codes may permit the use of a U.L.-listed, 120/240-volt minimum, 30ampere, dryer power supply cord kit (pigtail). Power supply cord should be Type SRD or SRDT and be at least four feet long. The wires that connect to the dryer must end with ring terminals or spade terminals with upturned ends. A 3/4", U.L.-listed strain relief must be installed where the power supply cord connects to the dryer (see Figures 1 and 2).

Four-wire power supply cord

NEMA 14-30P

Figure 1

NEUTRAL

(white or center)

3/4" U.L.-listed strain relief

This blade connected to this conductor.

ring terminals

spade terminals with upturned ends

Three-wire power supply cord

NEMA 10-30P

Figure 2

NEUTRAL

(white)

3/4" U.L.-listed strain relief

ground prong

ground wire (green)

ring terminals

WARNING

Explosion Hazard

Keep flammable materials and vapors, such as gasoline, away from dryer.

Failure to do so can result in death, explosion, or fire.

Your safety and the safety of others are

very important.

We have provided many important safety messages in this manual and on your appliance. Always read and obey all safety messages.

This is the safety alert symbol. This symbol alerts you to potential

hazards that can kill or hurt you and others.

All safety messages will follow the safety alert symbol and either the word “DANGER” or “WARNING”. These words mean:

All safety messages will tell you what the potential hazard is, tell you how to reduce the chance of injury, and tell you what can happen if the instructions are not followed.

You can be killed or seriously injured if you don’t immediately

follow instructions.

You can be killed or seriously injured if you don’t follow instructions.

WARNING

Before you start...

D ANGER

Electrical Shock Hazard Plug into a grounded 4-prong outlet. Failure to do so can result in death or

electrical shock.

WARNING

Page 3

Electrical connection

Panel B

Direct wire

The washer/dryer can be connected directly to fused disconnect or circuit breaker box with four-wire or three-wire flexible armored or non-metallic sheathed copper cable (with ground wire). Do Not use two-wire with bare ground wire. All current-carrying wires must be insulated.

A conduit connector must be installed at junction box. USE ONLY 10-GAUGE SOLID COPPER WIRE. DO NOT USE ALUMINUM WIRE. Allow four feet of slack in the line so dryer can be moved if servicing is ever necessary.

This dryer is manufactured with the cabinet-ground conductor connected to the NEUTRAL (center) of the wiring harness at the terminal block. If local codes do NOT permit this type of connection, use “Four-wire connection” instructions.

GROUND INSTRUCTIONS: This appliance must be grounded. In the event of malfunction or breakdown, ground will reduce the risk of electric shock by providing a path of least resistance for electric current.

If using a power supply cord, the plug must be plugged into an appropriate outlet that is properly installed and grounded in accordance with all local codes and ordinances.

If using a direct wire connection, this appliance must be connected to a grounded metal, permanent wiring system; or an equipment-ground conductor must be run with the circuit conductors and connected to the equipment-ground terminal or lead on the appliance.

WARNING - Improper connection of the equipment-ground conductor can result in a risk of electric shock. Check with a qualified electrician or serviceman if you are in doubt as to whether the appliance is properly grounded. Do not modify the power supply cord plug. If it will not fit the outlet, have a proper outlet installed by a qualified electrician.

If the house has aluminum wiring, follow the procedure below:

a) Connect a section of 8 gauge solid

copper wire to the connector block.

b) Connect the aluminum wiring to the

added section of copper wire using special connectors designed and Underwriters Laboratories Listed for joining copper to aluminum. Follow the electrical connector manufacturer's recommended procedure.

c) Aluminum/copper connection must

conform with local codes and industry accepted wiring practices.

three-wire

receptacle(10-30R)

Figure 4

For use where local codes permit use of flexible power supply cord.

four-wire

receptacle(14-30R)

Figure 3

Four-wire installation is recommended (required for mobile homes): The power

supply cord must have four, No.-10 copper wires and match a four-wire receptacle of NEMA Type 14-30R (see Figure 3). The fourth wire (ground conductor) must be identified with a green cover and the neutral conductor by a white cover.

Three-wire installation (if a four-wire system is not available): The power

supply cord must have three, No.-10 copper wires to match a three-wire receptacle of NEMA Type 10-30R (see Figure 4).

Panel B

Four-wire connection...

DIRECT WIRE

1. Disconnect the power supply.

2. Remove terminal block cover.

3. Strip 5 inches of outer covering from end of cable. Leave bare ground wire at 5 inches. Cut 1-1/2 inches from 3 remaining insulated wires. Strip insulation back 1 inch (see Figure 6).

3/4" U.L.-listed strain relief

red

white

black

to disconnect box

NEUTRAL

10-gauge, 3-wire with ground wire (Romex)

Direct wire preparation

Figure 6

3-1/2"

Figure 7

Shape the end of each wire into a “U” shaped hook (see Figure 7). The bare ground wire must be 4-1/2" long after forming the hook.

u-shaped hook

bare ground wire

1. Disconnect the power supply.

2. Remove terminal block cover.

3. Install copper, four-wire power supply cord through strain relief.

4. Remove the ground wire (green with yellow stripes) from the external ground connector and fasten under center, silver-colored terminal block screw.

5. Connect the ground wire (green) of the copper, four-wire power supply cord to the external ground connector.

6. Connect the neutral wire (white) of the power supply cord to the center, silver-colored terminal screw of the terminal block. Connect the other wires to the outer terminals. Tighten screws firmly.

7. Tighten strain relief screws.

8. Replace the terminal block cover.

power supply cord ground wire (green)

external ground connector

center silvercolored terminal block screw and neutral white wire

ground wire (green with yellow stripes)

Figure 5

POWER SUPPLY CORD

4. Install copper, four-wire power supply cable through strain relief.

5. Remove the ground wire (green with yellow stripes) from the external ground connector and fasten under center, silver-colored terminal block screw.

6. Slide the hook end of the ground wire (bare) of the four-wire power supply cable under the external ground connector screw. Squeeze hook end of wire together. Tighten screw.

7. Connect the neutral wire (white) of the power supply cable to the center, silver-colored terminal screw of the terminal block using the same method. Connect the other wires to the outer terminals. Tighten screws firmly.

8. Tighten strain relief screws.

9. Replace the terminal block cover.

wires stripped of insulation

WARNING

Fire Hazard

Use a new UL approved 30 ampere power supply cord.

Use a UL approved strain relief. Disconnect power before making

electrical connections. Connect neutral wire (white or center

wire) to center terminal (silver). Ground wire (green or bare wire) must

be connected to green ground connector.

Connect remaining 2 supply wires to remaining 2 terminals (gold).

Securely tighten all electrical connections.

Failure to do so can result in death, fire, or electrical shock.

WARNING

Fire Hazard Use 10 gauge solid copper wire. Use a UL approved strain relief. Disconnect power before making

electrical connections. Connect neutral wire (white or center

wire) to center terminal (silver). Ground wire (green or bare wire) must

be connected to green ground connector.

Connect remaining 2 supply wires to remaining 2 terminals (gold).

Securely tighten all electrical connections.

Failure to do so can result in death, fire, or electrical shock.

Page 4

Panel C

Exhaust requirements

POWER SUPPLY CORD

OR DIRECT WIRE

Where local codes DO NOT permit connecting the cabinet-ground conductor to the neutral (white) wire:

Where local codes permit connecting cabinet-ground conductor to the neutral wire of the power supply cable:

Where local codes permit connecting cabinet-ground conductor to the neutral wire:

Three-wire connection...

POWER SUPPLY CORD

Figure 8

center silver-colored terminal block screw and neutral white wire

ground wire (green with yellow stripes)

1. Disconnect the power supply.

2. Remove terminal block cover.

3. Install copper three-wire power supply cord through strain relief.

4. Remove the ground wire (green with yellow stripes) from under center, silvercolored terminal block screw and connect to external ground connector (see Figure 8).

5. Connect the neutral wire (white or center) of the power supply cord to the center, silver-colored terminal screw of the terminal block. Connect the other wires to the outer terminals. Tighten screws firmly.

6. Tighten strain relief screws.

7. Replace the terminal block cover.

external ground connector

DIRECT WIRE

1. Disconnect the power supply.

2. Remove terminal block cover.

3. Strip 3-1/2 inches of outer covering from end of cable. If using three-wire cable with I wire, cut the bare wire even with outer covering. Strip 1 inch of insulation from the end of each insulated wire (see Figure 9).

Important: Observe all governing codes and ordinances.

It is recommended that you exhaust your dryer to the outside for best performance. Moisture and lint indoors

may cause:

• Lint to gather around the dryer where it can be fuel for a fire.

• Moisture damage to woodwork, furniture, paint, wallpaper, carpet, etc.

• Housecleaning problems and health problems.

If the washer/dryer is installed in a confined area such as a bedroom, bathroom or closet, it must be exhausted to the outside and provision

must be made for enough air for ventilation. Check governing codes and ordinances. Also refer to the “Recessed and closet installation instructions” on Panel G.

Dura SafeTMvent products are recommended and are available from your dealer. See Panel G.

Four-inch diameter vent is required. Use a heavy metal vent. Do not use plastic or

metal foil vent.

• Do Not use non-metal flexible vent, or

exhaust hoods with magnetic latches.

• Do Not exhaust dryer into a chimney,

furnace, cold air vent, attic or crawl space, or any other vent used for venting.

• Do Not install flexible vent in enclosed walls,

ceilings or floors.

Rigid metal vent is recommended to prevent crushing and kinking.

Flexible metal vent must be fully extended and supported when the dryer is in its final position.

Remove excess flexible vent to avoid sagging and kinking that may result in reduced air flow.

An exhaust hood should cap the exhaust vent to prevent rodents and insects from entering the home.

Exhaust outlet hood must be at least 12 inches from the ground or any object that may be in the path of the exhaust (such as flowers, rocks or bushes, etc.).

If using an existing exhaust system, clean lint from entire length of system and make sure exhaust hood is not plugged with lint.

Replace any plastic or metal foil vent with rigid metal or flexible metal vent.

Use clamps to seal all joints. Do not use duct tape, screws or other fastening devices that extend into the interior of the vent to secure vent.

Service check: Back pressure in any exhaust system used must not exceed 0.6 inches in water column measured with an incline manometer at the point that exhaust vent connects to dryer.

Direct wire preparation

Figure 9

10-gauge, 3-wire or, 10-gauge, 3-wire with ground wire (Romex)

3/4" U.L.-listed strain relief

Bare wire cut short. Wire is not used. Dryer is grounded through direct wire cable.

to disconnect box

red

white

black

NEUTRAL

3-1/2"

wires stripped of insulation

Figure 10

Shape the end of each wire into a “U” shaped hook (see Figure 10).

u-shaped hook

WARNING

Fire Hazard Use a heavy metal vent. Do not use a plastic vent. Do not use a metal foil vent. Failure to do so can result in death or

fire.

Three-wire connection...

ground wire (green with yellow stripes)

center silver-colored terminal block screw and neutral white wire

external ground connector

Figure 11

4. Install copper, three-wire power supply cable through strain relief.

5. Remove the ground wire (green with yellow stripes) from under center, silvercolored terminal block screw and connect to external ground connector (see Figure 11).

6. Slide the hook end of the neutral (white or center) wire from the three-wire power supply cable under the center, silver-colored terminal screw of the terminal block. Squeeze the hook end of the wire together. Tighten screw.

7. Connect the other wires to the outer terminals using the same method. Tighten screws firmly (see Figure 11).

8. Tighten strain relief screws.

9. Replace the terminal block cover.

WARNING

Fire Hazard

Use a new UL approved 30 ampere power supply cord.

Use a UL approved strain relief. Disconnect power before making

electrical connections. Connect neutral wire (white or center

wire) to center terminal (silver). Ground wire (green or bare wire) must

be connected to green ground connector.

Connect remaining 2 supply wires to remaining 2 terminals (gold).

Securely tighten all electrical connections.

Failure to do so can result in death, fire, or electrical shock.

WARNING

Fire Hazard Use 10 gauge solid copper wire. Use a UL approved strain relief. Disconnect power before making

electrical connections. Connect neutral wire (white or center

wire) to center terminal (silver). Ground wire (green or bare wire) must

be connected to green ground connector.

Connect remaining 2 supply wires to remaining 2 terminals (gold).

Securely tighten all electrical connections.

Failure to do so can result in death, fire, or electrical shock.

12" min.

Connect separate copper ground wire from external ground connector to approved ground.

separate copper ground wire

external ground connector

ground wire (green with yellow stripes)

Figure 12

center silver-colored terminal block screw and neutral white wire

1. Disconnect the power supply.

2. Remove terminal block cover.

3. Install solid copper, power supply cord or cable through strain relief.

4. Remove the ground wire (green with yellow stripes) from the external ground connector.

5. Connect the ground wire (green with yellow stripes) and the neutral (white) wire of the power supply cord or direct wire cable to the center, silver-colored terminal screw of the terminal block. Connect the other wires to the outer terminals. Tighten screws (see Figure 12).

6. Connect a separate copper ground wire (No.-10 minimum) from the external ground screw to an adequate ground.

7. Tighten strain relief screws.

8. Replace the terminal block cover.

Page 5

Mobile home exhaust requirements: The

washer/dryer must have an outside exhaust. If the dryer is exhausted through the floor and the area under the mobile home is enclosed, the exhaust system must terminate outside the enclosed area. Extension beyond the enclosure will prevent lint and moisture buildup under the mobile home.

7.Insert a flat washer into each end

of the inlet hoses. Check that washers are firmly seated in couplings.

Now start...

with washer/dryer in laundry area.

Truck only from rear to prevent product damage.

2.Open washer lid. Take hoses and

parts packages out of basket. Close lid.

1.Put on safety glasses and gloves.

4 washers

3.Remove parts from package.

Check that all parts were included.

4.Pull to completely remove the

shipping strap with 2 cotterpins from the inside of the washer/dryer.

6.Disconnect the power supply.

Connect power supply cord or cable to dryer. See “Electrical connection,” Panels B and C. Do Not plug power supply cord into outlet or reconnect power at this time.

5.Tilt washer/dryer forward. Check

that rear leveling legs move up and down freely so that washer/dryer can be properly leveled in Step 15.

Use new hoses and washers that came with your washer/dryer.

Replace inlet hoses after 5 years of use to reduce the risk of hose failure. Inspect and replace inlet hoses if bulges, kinks, cuts, wear, or leaks are found. When replacing your inlet hoses, mark the date of replacement on the label with a permanent marker.

washer

coupling

Inlet valves are plastic. Do not strip or crossthread.

8.Attach hose to bottom (hot

water) inlet valve opening first; then second hose to top (cold water) inlet valve. Tighten couplings by hand. Use pliers to make an additional two-thirds turn.

IMPORTANT: THIS PROCEDURE MUST BE FOLLOWED TO ASSURE PROPER INSTALLATION.

9.To prevent the drain hose from

coming off or leaking, it must be installed per the following instructions:

1. Wet the inside end of the drain hose with tap water. DO NOT USE ANY

OTHER LUBRICANT.

2. Squeeze ears of drain hose clamp with pliers to open and place clamp over the end of the drain hose.

3. While holding clamp open, work end of drain hose onto drain connector.

4. Position clamp over the drain hose area marked “clamp.” Release clamp. Clamp should be 1/4 inch from end of drain hose.

Save the shipping strap for use in Step 18.

Pull the shipping

strap completely

out of the washer.

drain hose connector

clamp

drain hose

1/4"

1/4" max.

cotter pins

drain hose clamp

yellow clamp

Panel D

The exhaust vent can be routed up, down, left, right or straight out the back of the washer/dryer. Space requirements are provided on Panel G and on the rear panel of the washer/dryer. Use the straightest path you can, to avoid 90° turns.

For exhaust systems not covered by the exhaust length chart, see Service Manual

, Part No. 603197, available from

a Whirlpool-authorized parts distributor.

Four-inch exhaust hood is preferred.

However, a 2-1/2-inch exhaust hood may be used. A 2-1/2-inch exhaust hood creates greater back pressure than other hood types. For permanent

installation, a stationary exhaust system is required.

Exhausting the dryer through the side of the

washer/dryer requires the use of Side Exhaust Kit, Part No. 279823, available from a Whirlpool-authorized parts distributor. Follow kit Installation Instructions for proper exhaust installation.

Rear, Side or Bottom Exhaust

2-1/2"

rigid metal

vent

lexible

metal

vent

42 ft

34 ft

26 ft

21 ft

16 ft

Number of 90° turns

Mobile home installation

This washer/dryer is suitable for mobile home installations. The installation of the washer/dryer must conform to the Manufactured Home Construction and Safety, Title 24 CFR, Part 3280 (formerly the Federal Standard for Mobile Homes Construction and Safety, Title 24, HUD Part 280, latest edition).

floor

skirting

outside wall

enclosed area

The maximum length using a 2" x 6" rectangular vent with 2 elbows and a 2-1/2" (TYPE C) exhaust hood is 8 ft.

Maximum length of vent

Four-inch diameter vent

Maximum length of the exhaust system

depends upon the type of vent used, number of elbows and the type of exhaust hood. The maximum length for both rigid and flexible vent is shown in the chart.

cold

hot

Excessive Weight Hazard

Use two or more people to move and install washer/dryer.

Failure to do so can result in back or other injury.

WARNING

Page 6

Panel E

10.Standpipe or

laundry tub drain system:

Open yellow clamp and slide over “hook” end of drain hose to secure the rigid and corrugated sections together.

Floor drain system: Do Not install “hook” end of drain hose to corrugated section. Consult your plumber for proper installation.

11.If you have room to work from

either side of the washer/dryer, move washer/dryer close to final position so you can easily complete the following steps. (Go to Step 12.)

If you are working in a closet or recessed area, move the washer/dryer

into final position and remove cardboard or hardboard from under washer/dryer. Remove the access panel by removing three Phillips-head screws and one bumper, located at the top of the access panel. Set panel, screws and bumper aside. Complete the following steps through the access area.

12.Put “hook” end of drain hose

into laundry tub or standpipe. Check for proper length of drain hose.

Slide washer/dryer onto cardboard or hardboard before moving across floor to avoid damaging floor covering.

Numbers correspond to steps.

Pull shipping strap with 2 cotterpins completely out of washer.

11. 20. 28.

15.

6. 23. 30.

21. 22.

14.

4. 18. 19.

10.

12. 19.

13.Before attaching water inlet

hoses, run water through both faucets into a bucket. This will get rid of particles in water lines that might clog hoses. Mark which is the hot water faucet.

14.Attach bottom inlet hose (inlet

marked “H”) to hot water faucet. Attach top inlet hose (inlet marked “C”) to cold water faucet. Tighten couplings to the faucets by hand. Use pliers to make final two-thirds turn.

Move washer/dryer to its permanent location. Remove cardboard/hardboard from under washer/dryer.

15.Carefully move the

washer/dryer into final position.Tilt washer/dryer forward raising back legs 1 inch off of floor to adjust rear, selfleveling legs. Gently lower washer/dryer to floor. Check levelness of the washer/dryer by placing a carpenter’s level on top of the washer, first side to side; then front to back. If washer/dryer is not level, check that rear leveling legs move up and down freely. If washer/ dryer is level, go to Step 17.

Insert corner posts 6 inches from left leg. Do Not insert corner posts in the center of the washer/dryer.

16.If washer/dryer is not level,

carefully tilt washer/dryer backward until front of washer/dryer is 3-4 inches off of floor. Insert 4 corner posts under washer/dryer about 6 inches from the left leg. Loosen nuts on each front leg. Adjust the front legs up or down. Tilt washer/dryer backward and remove corner posts. Gently lower the washer/dryer to the floor. Repeat Step 15 and 16 until washer/dryer is level.

17.When washer/dryer is level,

use adjustable wrench to turn nuts on front legs up tightly against washer/dryer base. If nuts are not tight

against washer/dryer base, the washer/dryer may vibrate.

Secure the drain hose to the laundry tub or standpipe with the shipping strap removed from the back of the washer.

18.After shipping strap has been

removed (Step 4), look for the words “cut here” marked on the shipping strap, about 16 inches from plug end. Cut the shipping strap at this mark. Pull shipping strap out of the power supply cord.

16"

Page 7

21.Determine the length of

exhaust vent that is needed to connect the dryer to the exhaust hood. (See “Exhaust requirements,” Panels C and D.)

22.Connect exhaust vent to

washer/dryer and then to the exhaust hood.

• Use the straightest path possible to avoid 90° turns.

• Use clamp to seal all joints in the exhaust system.

• Use caulking compound to seal exterior wall opening around exhaust hood.

23.CHECK ELECTRICAL

REQUIREMENTS. BE SURE YOU HAVE CORRECT ELECTRICAL SUPPLY AND RECOMMENDED GROUND METHOD.

Check the Installation Instructions to see that you have completed each step. Complete any missed steps before you continue.

24.Check that all parts are now

installed. See parts list, Panel D. If there is an extra part, go back through steps to see which step was skipped.

25.Check that you removed all

the shipping pieces including the shipping strap with its 2 cotterpins and plug. Dispose of all materials in proper manner.

If you do not remove the shipping strap, your washer/dryer may “walk” away from its location.

26.Check that you have all of

your tools.

27.Turn on water faucets and

check for leaks. Tighten couplings if there is leaking. Do Not overtighten; this could cause damage to faucet.

28.Replace access panel. Be

sure to tighten the three Phillips-head screws at the top of the access panel. Replace the bumper under the center screw.

29.Read the Use and Care

Guide to fully understand your new washer/dryer. Open dryer door. Check to be sure lint screen is in its proper position. Wipe out drum.

30.Plug power supply cord into

grounded outlet. Reconnect the power supply. Now start the washer and allow it to complete the regular cycle.

31.Start dryer and allow it to

complete a full heat cycle to make sure it is working properly.

Panel F

strap

19 . Put “hook” end of drain hose

in laundry tub or standpipe. Tightly wrap the shipping strap around the drain hose and laundry tub or standpipe as shown in Figures A and B. Push plug into the nearest hole in the shipping strap.

If the water inlet faucets and drain standpipe are recessed, put “hook” end of drain hose in standpipe. Tightly wrap the shipping strap around the drain hose and faucet body (not the handles or stems) as shown in Figure C. Push plug into the nearest hole in the shipping strap.

Hose must be cut exactly to length so “hook” end is held tightly over edge of standpipe.

If drain hose cannot be strapped in place, it must be cut exactly to length so the “hook” end is held tightly over the edge of the tub or standpipe. See Figure D.

If a longer drain hose is needed, drain hose (Part No. 388423) and hose extension kit (Part No.

285442) are available from a Whirlpoolauthorized parts distributor. If drain hose must be shortened, use hose kit (Part No.

285442).

Note: If washer/dryer is moved to adjust drain hose, the washer/dryer must be leveled again. Repeat Steps 15-17. Place cardboard under the washer/dryer and carefully move washer/dryer to avoid damaging floor covering.

strap

20.If you did not remove the

access panel in Step 11, remove three Phillips-head screws and one bumper, located at the top of the access panel. Set the panel, screws and bumper aside.

Check that hose is not twisted or kinked and is securely in place.

level

Phillips screwdriver

pliers

utility knife

safety glasses

gloves

adjustable wrench (two may be required)

flat-blade screwdriver

You have successfully installed your

new Whirlpool washer/dryer. To get the

most efficient use from your new

Whirlpool washer/dryer, read your

Use and Care Guide.

Congratulations!

Keep Installation Instructions nearby

where you can refer to them. They’ll

make reinstalling your Whirlpool

washer/dryer in another home as

easy as the first installation.

clamp

Page 8

Panel G

Recessed and closet installation instructions

This washer/dryer may be installed in a recessed area or closet.

The installation spacing is in inches and is minimum allowable. Additional spacing should be considered for ease of installation, servicing and compliance with local codes and ordinances.

If closet door is installed, the minimum unobstructed air openings in top and bottom are required. Louvered doors with equivalent air openings are acceptable. Closet installation must be exhausted.

Other installations must use the minimum dimensions indicated.

Recessed, non-exhausted installation must use only the rear exhaust position and Exhaust Deflector Part No. 694609.

Note: If recessed installation is exhausted to the side or rear, 6" must be available above the washer/dryer but all other spacing can be 0".

Product dimensions

*Additional clearances for wall, door and floor moldings may be required or if external exhaust

elbow is used.

**Opening is minimum for closet door. Louvered door with equivalent air openings is acceptable.

***Additional space may be needed for exhaust elbow.

0" ***

dryer

washer

Closet installation must be exhausted outdoors.

closet door

side view

48 sq. in. **

24 sq. in. **

1" min.

48 sq. in. **

front view

side view

closet door

Recessed area minimum

installation spacing

72-3/4"

33-1/4"

32-1/4"

side view

24 sq. in. **

34-3/4"

28"

26-1/4"

0" *

front view

48"

rear view

27-3/8"

13-11/16"

1-1/2" hot water inlet

13-1/2"

recess width

recess

depth

27" cold water inlet

exhaust outlet 36-3/4"

28-1/2" drain outlet

22-3/4"

0" *

WARNING - To reduce the risk of fire, this appliance MUST BE EXHAUSTED OUTDOORS.

Most installation will require at least 5 inch clearance behind the dryer for the dryer vent.

Location must be large enough to fully open dryer door.

SURE CONNECTTMVent Kit

CRUSH

RESISTANT

Dura Safe

Kits Make Installation Easy

◆Provides 4 1/2”

clearance between dryer and wall

◆Snap-Lock fittings

◆Total kit length

8 feet

◆Additional vent can

be snapped between sections for longer runs

Kit Contains:

2- 4' vent sections with attached close elbows 1- Wall plate for close clearance installations 2- 4" clamps

Part #4396028

Sections separate, fittings can face same or opposite

Extra long band-clamp for dryer connection

Swivel collar

Beveled edges allow corner installations

Telescoping sections

Swivel collar wall connection

◆ Provides 2 1/2” clearance

between dryer and wall

◆ Great for closet

installations

◆ 0"-18", 18”-29” or

29”- 50” periscopes include one male snap-lock fitting, one extra long draw-band collar and one clamp

1/2 "

2 1/2"

Periscopes For Offset

Outlets, Tight Installations

◆ Use when vent outlets

overlap or are offset

◆ Excess length can

be trimmed to fit

18"-29" and 29"-50" Periscope

0"-18" Periscope

0"-18" : Part #4396037 18"-29" : Part #4396011 29"-50" : Part #4396014

Part #4396037

18"-29" : Part #4396011 29"-50" : Part #4396014

Dura Safe and Sure Connect are Trademarks of Whirlpool, U.S.A.

For more information,

or to easily place your

order, call

1-800-442-9991

To have your venting

professionally installed,

call

1-800-253-1301

for the nearest

authorized service

provider.

Page 9

Prepared by Whirlpool Corporation,

Benton Harbor, Michigan 49022

Printed in U.S.A.

If washer/dryer does not operate properly...

Check the following to be sure that:

1. Electrical supply is connected.

2. House fuse or circuit breaker is intact and tight.

3. Washer lid or dryer door is closed.

4. Controls are set in a running or “ON” position.

5. Dryer start button has been firmly pushed.

6. Make sure shipping strap has been completely removed and was used to secure the drain hose to the laundry tub or standpipe.

When moving the washer/dryer...

• Disconnect the power supply cord, then tape securely to the washer/dryer.

• Tape the drum to the front panel. Tape the lint screen in place. Tape the dryer door closed.

• Wedge a blanket between the tub ring and cabinet top to restrict tub movement.

• Turn front leveling legs all the way in.

If you need assistance...

The Whirlpool Customer Interaction Center will answer any questions about operating or maintaining your washer/dryer not covered in the Installation Instructions. The Whirlpool Customer Interaction Center is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Just dial 1-800-253-1301 — the call is free.

When you call, you will need the washer/dryer model number and serial number. Both numbers can be found on the model/serial rating plate located in the door well behind the dryer door on front of opening.

If you need service...

In the event that your Whirlpool appliance should need service, call the dealer from whom you purchased the appliance or a Whirlpool-authorized service company. A Whirlpoolauthorized service company is listed in the Yellow Pages of your telephone directory under “Appliances — Household — Major — Service and Repair.” You can also obtain the service company’s name and telephone number by dialing, free, within the continental United States, the Whirlpool Customer Interaction Center telephone number, 1-800-253-1301. A special operator will tell you the name and number of your nearest Whirlpooldesignated service company.

Maintain the quality built into your Whirlpool appliance — call a Whirlpooldesignated service company.

CORPORATION