Water Factory Systems N4000 Series, N5000 Series, N4500 Series Installation, Operation And Maintenance Manual

Series N4000, N4500, N5000
Installation Operation and
Maintenance Manual
WATER FACTORY SYSTEMS
®
N4000, N4500, N5000
Reverse Osmosis (RO) Drinking Water Appliance
CUNO Incorporated
Meriden, CT 06450
Tele: (203) 237-5541
Fax: (203) 238-8701
98-8807 0300
Introduction
This manual explains the installation and maintenance instructions for the water Factory Systems’ N4000, N54500, N5000 Series Reverse Osmosis (RO) Drinking Water Appliances. Please read each section of this manual carefully. The specific model chosen should be appropriate for the local water conditions and the customer’s needs. Check the Performance Data Sheet which specifies performance characteristics and the conditions of use.
The Water Factory Systems’ undercounter RO drinking water appliances are designed to connect per­manently to a home plumbing system. To ensure the installation conforms to your state and local plumbing codes, it is recommended that the installation be performed by a qualified specialist for RO drinking water appliances or a licensed plumber. Failure to install as instructed will VOID the warranty.
Caution: The RO membrane cartridge is shipped with a preservative solution inside. Make sure to flush it thoroughly as directed before first use.
Table Of Contents
Installation Instructions
A. Determine the appliance location B. Prepare the area for installation C. Prepare the appliance for installation D. Install the feed water valve and tubing E. Prefill and sanitize the storage tank F. Install the drain connection G. Install the faucet H. Make the faucet mounting hole I. Mount the faucet J. Make initial tubing connections K. Install purification assembly and storage tank L. Make final tubing connections M. Install the icemaker hookup (optional) N. Start up the system O. Flush system of preservative and check operation P. Cleanup, paperwork, and customer orientation Appendix for basement installations Installation troubleshooting Installation diagrams, (Figures 1-6)
Operation & Maintenance Instructions
Important water quality assurance requirements Replacing the filter cartridges Replacing the RO membrane cartridge Sanitizing the RO appliance
© 1995, CUNO/Water Factory Systems. All material herein may not be produced or copied in any manner without the expresse written consent of the publisher.
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Installation Instructions
A. Determine System Location (Figure. 1&2)
The appliance can be located under a sink or in a basement depending on space availability and the customer’s preference. If a basement installation is selected, additional tubing, hardware and fittings may be needed and a hole will have to be made from inside the cabinet, through the floor, to the basement. Never install in an area of the home where temperature is freezing as damage to the system will result.
The exact placement of the various compo­nents of the appliance will vary from installation to installation. The installer, in conjunction with the customer, must decide on where to place the faucet, tank and purification assembly by balancing the homeowner’s convenience with ease of installation and servicing.
Considerations for an icemaker or other remote hookup should be predetermined, including routing and any additional tools, fittings, and tubing that may be required.
B. Prepare The Area For Installation
To save time it is often advised to call the customer and request they clear under the sink prior to arrival. Otherwise, remove supplies from under the sink and stack them neatly away from the work­ing area. Arrange a light for the work area, if neces­sary.
If a basement installation is called for, deter­mine where components will be located and how they will be mounted. Special mounting brackets and hardware may be necessary to secure the sys­tem to a wall or ceiling joints.
Inspect cold water supply line and drain to determine if any special fittings, in addition to what is included in the kit, are required.
NOTE: It is a good idea at this time to check the condition of the customer’s undercounter plumbing for any existing or potential leaks. The customer should be advised of any problem so there is no misunderstanding of who is responsible.
C. Prepare The Appliance For Installation
Open shipping carton and remove compo­nents. Check that all installation parts are present which includes the purification assembly, storage tank, faucet, installation hardware and tubing.
Check that the air supply in the empty tank is
approximately 7 psi. Adjust if necessary.
If optional percent rejection monitor is selected, probes should be installed at this time. Follow instruc­tions that come with the monitor.
The saddle tapping valve supplied is designed for use with 3/8” to 1/2” O.D. soft copper supply tubing (plain or chromed) and rigid metal pipe (see below). Do not use with flexible ribbed supply tubing which has too thin a wall thickness and requires special hardware. Optional feed valves can be specially ordered from the factory for this purpose. Also refer to figure 6 on use of the “Push In” plastic fit- tings.
Soft Copper Tubing Installations: A) Turn off cold water valve under the sink, or main
valve for the house. B) Before installing saddle tapping valve, make sure
piercing lance does not protrude beyond rubber gas­ket. See instructions on bag.
C) Assemble both halves of saddle tapping valve on copper tubing.
D) For 3/8” O.D tubing, use bracket with side projec­tions to prevent distortion of tubing. Use “V” side of bracket for all larger size tubing. Tighten screws evenly and firmly - brackets should be parallel. Do not deform tubing. See diagram.
E) To pierce soft copper tube, turn handle clockwise until it is firmly seated. The valve is closed in this position.
F) Turn on main supply valve to pressurize cold water line. Check for leaks. With a wrench, tighten nut/seal around valve stem.
G) Connect length of orange 1/4” tubing to the feed water valve, using brass compression nut, insert, and plastic sleeve. See diagram.
NOTE: For basement installations, a longer length of feed water tubing may have to be used.
IMPORTANT: Some local plumbing codes may prohibit the use of saddle-type valve connec­tions. Optional feed valve assemblies can be specially ordered from you supplier. See page 11 for further information.
Rigid Metal Pipe Installations: A) Turn off cold water supply valve and drain the
line to prevent spillage.
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B) Drill 3/16” hole at the desired location. To prevent shock hazard, use a battery operated drill.
C) Turn valve handle clockwise to expose piercing lance beyond the rubber gasket no more than 3/16”.
D) Assemble saddle valve on the supply pipe by screwing the two halves together. Use the “V” side of the bracket. Tighten screws evenly and firmly, keeping the two sides of the bracket parallel.
E) Turn saddle valve handle clockwise to close valve. With a wrench, tighten nut/seal around stem.
F) When you wish to open valve and supply cold water to the unit, turn valve handle counterclockwise.
G) Connect appropriate length of 1/4” tubing to the feed water valve, using brass compression nut, insert, and plastic sleeve. See diagram.
NOTE: For basement installations, a longer length of orange feed water tubing may have to be used.
E. Prefill And Sanitize The Storage Tank
Prefilling the tank is always recommended so there is pressure to check for leaks and several gallons of water to flush carbon post filter. Tanks are furnished with a special disinfection capsule which sanitizes the tank when it is filled with water. An instruction tag will accompany the tank. It is important to use a sanitizer when prefilling the tank so the solution can sanitize the tubing, fittings, and faucet at the time of installation and startups.
A) Insert free end of orange feed water tubing into the “Push In” fitting on the storage tank.
B) Open feed water valve and tank and allow to fill (about 3 minutes).
C) Turn off feed water valve and tank valve and set tank aside (15 minutes minimum).
NOTE: If an alternative storage tank is used without a disinfection capsule, it should be sanitized with household bleach (5.25%). Use 1 ml bleach per gal­lon of tank capacity.
F. Install The Drain Connection (fig.4)
For Basement Installations See page 8 Undercounter Installations:
IMPORTANT: Before starting this procedure, inspect the condition of the drain piping, espe­cially in older homes where the traps and tail­pieces can be deceptively thin and frail. If in poor condition, it is wise to inform the customer that the condition should be remedied.
IMPORTANT: Some local plumbing codes may prohibit the use of saddle-type drain connec­tions. See page 11 for further information.
The drain saddle assembly is designed to fit around a standard 1-1/2” O.D. drain pipe. For small­er (lavatory type) or larger (ABS pipe) drains, con­sult the factory for special drain saddles.
The drain saddles should always be installed above (before) the trap and on the vertical or horizontal tailpiece. Never install the drain saddle close to the out- let of a garbage disposal or plugging of the RO drain line may occur.
A) Position threaded half of drain saddle at selected location and mark the spot through the opening.
B) Drill a 1/4” hole at the marked spot through one side of drain tailpiece.
C) Position both halves of drain saddle on drain pipe so threaded opening lines up with the hole in drain pipe.
D) Use bolts and nuts to clamp drain saddle onto drain pipe. Do not over tighten and make sure there is equal space between saddle halves on each side.
E) Wrap Teflon®tape on thread of drain saddle elbow and tighten into drain saddle. Orient elbow in the direction of RO faucet location.
G. Install The Faucet (Fig.5)
Undercounter installations generally require that the faucet is installed with the air gap module. In base­ment installations, the air gap module can be elimi­nated only if one is provided elsewhere in the drain line.
IMPORTANT: The Uniform Plumbing Code dic­tates that there must be an air gap between the RO line and the waste drain.
NOTE: An optional non-air gap faucet, which
requires a smaller (9/16”) hole, is available from the factory to make basement installations easier.
A wide variety of RO faucet mounting situa­tions can be encountered, the most common being stainless steel and ceramic on metal sinks. Consult the factory for other materials encountered.
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Teflon is a registered trademark of E.I. Dupont.
The customer should be consulted before determin­ing faucet location. The faucet should be positioned so that it empties into the sink and the spout swivels freely for convenience.
If the sink already has a hole provided that can accommodate the RO faucet, then no drilling is required and you can proceed to the section on mounting the faucet.
NOTE: With the customer’s permission, sprayers can
be disconnected to provide a suitable hole for the RO faucet. A pipe cap or plug will be required to seal the sprayer connection. A special kit which pro­vides a sprayer for the end of the kitchen faucet and an assortment of caps and plugs are available.
H. Make The Faucet Mounting Hole
IMPORTANT: It is mandatory that safety glasses be worn during sink hole drilling operations to prevent eye injury.
Before starting the hole making operation, always check below the sink so that nothing interferes with mounting the faucet such as reinforcing ribs, support brackets or cabinet construction.
Stainless steel sink, faucet with or without air gap module:
Recommended tools:
• Center punch
• Variable speed drill and high speed drill bits
• Greenlee chassis punch 7/8” hole size (alternate 9/16”
size may be used for faucets without air gap module)
Procedure: A) Center punch a small indent at the desired faucet
location.
B) Slowly drill required pilot hole for the chassis punch. C) Set up the chassis punch per instructions and tighten
nut to cut the desired hole size.
D) Clean up sharp edges with a file if necessary.
Porcelain/Enamel/Ceramic on sheet metal or cast
iron base; faucet with or without air gap module:
Recommended Tools:
• Variable speed drill
• Relton porcelain cutter tool set 7/8” size (alternate
9/16” porcelain bit may be used for faucets without air gap module)
• Plumber’s putty
It is important to understand what is involved
in this procedure. First, the glassy layer of porcelain must be penetrated through to the base metal. Second, a center disc of porcelain must be removed while protecting the surrounding porcelain against chipping or fracturing. Third, the base metal must be drilled through to complete the hole.
Procedure: A) Mark the center for the 7/8” hole B) Form shallow putty dam around hole area and fill
with enough water to lubricate carbide drill bit. C) Carefully drill pilot hole through porcelain/enamel
and base metal using carbide type pilot drill.
IMPORTANT: Always operate drill with light pressure at slow speed (300-400 rpm)
D) Insert pilot tip of spring loaded porcelain cutter
into pilot hole. E) Drill porcelain/enamel using spring-loaded porce-
lain cutter, making certain a complete ring has been cut through the porcelain/enamel to the metal base.
F) Change to the metal cutter. With slow speed and light pressure, cut away the inner porcelain/enamel disc down to base metal. Make certain that the cut­ter does not touch outer rim of the cut porcelain/ enamel. Continue with this bit to cut through metal until sink has been completely penetrated.
IMPORTANT: When using a porcelain cutter it is critical to take precautions that it is always in a sharpened condition. Dull cutters are known to chip sinks.
I. Mount The Faucet (Fig. 5)
For basement Installations Without Air Gap Module See Appendix
Undercounter Installation With Air Gap Module: A) Familiarize yourself with all components shown in
the air gap faucet diagram. B) Disassemble hardware from the threaded nipple,
except for chrome base plate and rubber washer. NOTE: Rubber washer may be replaced with bead
of plumber’s putty for neater appearance. C) Connect length of standard green 1/4” tubing to smaller
barb on air gap faucet. Push on firmly until it seats.
D) Connect length of black 3/8” tubing to larger barb
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