General Information: Despite lurid tales of the FBI using electronic olives to
spy on private citizens, most of us feel pretty safe from electronic surveillance in
our homes and offices. But, perhaps we shouldn't! A quick scan of the
electronic hobby magazines reveals an astonishing array of affordable microminiature VHF and UHF transmitters being sold for the sole purpose of
"bugging" private conversations. And now, with the advent of low-cost
microchip video cameras, even our most intimate and private acts are easily
transmitted blocks away and committed to videotape! Who would do such a
thing? Recent news reports suggest heavy-handed p rosecutors, angry spouses,
personal or political enemies, dishonest business competitors, internet smut
hucksters, hired sleuths, insurance investigators, criminal sex offenders, and even
curious adolescent snoops--to name only a few! It's not a comforting thought,
but manufacturers are selling hundreds of millions of dollars worth of
inexpensive amateur surveillance products yearly, and somebody out there is
buying this stuff!
The VEC-8218K can help you fight back and reclaim your personal space by
detecting signals from low-power bugging transmitters over a wide frequency
range. Sweep an area, and if a signal is there, you can find its source and
"crunch" the offending bug quickly--before sensitive words and private acts wind
up in the wrong hands! As an ad ded plus, your monitor also checks cel lphones,
cordless phones, RC transmitters, and garage-door openers for operation.
Circuitry: The VEC-8218 Counter-Surveillance Monitor consists of a high-
gain wide-band RF amplifier coupled to a RF detector. This drives a sensitive
VCO (voltage-controlled oscillator) that changes in pitch whenever nearby
signals are picked up. The closer you get, the greater the change in pitch from
the speaker--enabling you to move in quickly for the "kill". Sensitivity is
adjustable down to -60 dBm, which ensures detection of even very-low power or
well-hidden bugs.
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
Construction Area: Kit construction requires a clean, smooth, and well-lighted
area where you can easily organize and handle small parts without losing them.
An inexpensive sheet of white poster board makes an excellent construction
surface, while providing protection for the underlying table or desk. Diffused
overhead lighting is a plus, and a supplemental high-intensity desk lamp is
especially helpful for close-up work. Safety is always important! Use a suitable
high-temperature stand for your soldering iron, and keep the work area free of
clutter.
Universal Kit-building Tools: No special tools are required to complete this
kit beyond common items normally used for bench construction. We
recommend the following:
! Soldering Iron (grounded-tip and temperature-controlled preferred)
! High-temperature Iron Holder with Cleaning Sponge
! Solder, 60/40 or 37/63 with rosin or "no-clean" flux (.031" dia. is good size).
! Needle Nose Pliers or Surgical Hemostats
! Diagonal Cutters or "Nippy Cutters"
! Solder Sucker (squeeze or vacuum pump type), or Desoldering Braid
! Bright Desk Lamp
! Magnifying Glass
BEFORE YOU START BUILDING
Experience shows there are four common mistakes builders make. Avoid these,
and your kit will probably work on the first try! Here's what they are:
1. Installing the Wrong Part: It always pays to double-check each step. A 1K
and a 10K resistor may look almost the same, but they may act very
differently in an electronic circuit! Same for capacitors--a device marked
102 (or .001 uF) may have very different operating characteristics from one
marked 103 (or .01uF).
2. Installing Parts Backwards: Always check the polarity of electrolytic
capacitors to make sure the positive (+) lead goes in the (+) hole on the
circuit board. ICs have a notch or dot at one end indicating the correct
direction of insertion. Always double-check--especially before applying
power to the circuit!
3. Faulty Solder Connections: Inspect for cold-solder joints and solder
bridges. Cold solder joints happen when you don't fully heat the connection-or when metallic corrosion and oxide contaminate a component lead or pad.
Solder bridges form when a trail of excess solder shorts pads or tracks
together (see solder tips below).
4. Omitting or Misreading a Part: This is easier to do than you might think!
Always double-check to make sure you completed each step in an assembly
sequence.
Soldering Tips: Cleanliness and good heat distribution are the two secrets of
professional soldering. Before you install and solder each part, inspect leads or
pins for oxidation. If the metal surface is dull, sand with fine emery paper until
shiny. Allow the tip of your iron to contact both the lead and pad for about one
second (count "one-thousand-one") before feeding solder to the connection.
Surfaces must become hot enough for solder to flow smoothly. Feed solder to
the opposite side of the lead from your iron tip--solder will wick around the lead
toward the tip, wetting all exposed surfaces. Apply solder sparingly, and do not
touch solder directly to the hot iron tip to promote rapid melting. Keep a damp
sponge handy to wipe your so ldering tip on. This removes excess solde r, and
keeps the tip properly tinned. If the iron is going to sit idling for long periods,
wipe the tip, add some fresh solder, and unplug the iron.
Desoldering Tips: If you make a mistake and need to remove a part, follow
these instructions carefully! First, grasp the component with hemostats, needlenose pliers, or your fingers. Heat the pad beneath the lead you intend to extract,
and pull gently. The lead should come out. Repeat for the other lead. Solder
may fill in behind the lead as you extract it--especially if you are working on a
double-sided b o ar d with plat e-thr o ugh hol es. Sho uld this ha pp e n, tr y heat ing the
pad again and inserting a common pin into the hole. Solder won't stick to the
pin's chromium plating. When the pad cools, remove the pin and insert the
correct component. For ICs or multiple-pin parts, use desoldering braid to
remove excess solder before attempting to extract the part. Alternatively, a lowcost vacuum-bulb or spring-loaded solder sucker may be used. Parts damaged or
severely overheated during extraction should be replaced rather than reinstalled.
Work Habits: Kit construction requires the ability to follow detailed
instructions and, in many cases, to perform new and unfamiliar tasks. To avoid
making needless mistakes, work for short periods when you're fresh and alert.
Recreational construction projects are more informative and more fun when you
take your time. Enjoy!
Sorting and Reading Resistors: The electrical value of resistors is indicated by
a color code (shown below). You don't have to memorize this code to work with
resistors, but you do need to understand how it works:
Resistor Color Code
1st Digit
2nd Digit
Multiplier
Tolerence
(gold or silver)
Black = 0 (tens)
Brown = 1 (hundreds)
Red = 2 (K)
Orange = 3 (10K)
Yellow = 4 (100K)
Green = 5 (1Meg)
Blue = 6
Violet = 7
Gray = 8
White = 9
Silver = 10%
Gold = 5%
When you look at a resistor, check its multiplier code first. Any resistor with a
black multiplier band falls between 10 and 99 ohms in value. Brown designates
a value between 100 and 999 ohms. Red indicates a value from 1000 to 9999
ohms, which is also expressed as 1.0K to 9.9K. An orange multiplier band
designates 10K to 99K, etc. To inventory resistors, first separate them into
groups by multiplier band (make a pile of 10s, 100s, Ks, 10Ks, etc.). Next, sort
each group by specific value (1K, 2.2K, 4.7K, etc). This procedure makes the
inventory easier, and also makes locating specific parts more convenient later on
during construction. Some builders find it especially helpful to arrange resistors
in ascending order along a strip of double-sided tape.
Reading Capacitors: Unlike resistors, capacitors no longer use a color code for
value identification. Instead, the value, or a 3-number code, is printed on the
body.
Value Code
10 pF = 100
100 pF = 101
1000 pF = 102
.001 uF = 102*
.01 uF = 103
.1 uF = 104
Multilayer
(270 pF)
271
Ceramic Discs
(.001 uF) (.1 uF)
102
104
Electrolytic
1 uF
|
1uF
|
35V
+
-
As with resistors, it's helpful to sort capacitors by type, and then to arrange them
in ascending order of value. Small-value capacitors are characterized in pF (or
pico-Farads), while larger values are labeled in uF (or micro-Farads). The
transition from pF to uF occurs at 1000 pF (or .001 uF)*. Today, most
monolithic and disc-ceramic capacitors are marked with a three-number code.
The first two digits indicate a numerical value, while the last digit indicates a
multiplier (same as resistors).
Electrolytic capacitors are always marked in uF. Electrolytics are polarized
devices and must be oriented correctly during installation. If you become
confused by markings on the case, remember the uncut negative lead is slightly
shorter than the positive lead.
Integrated Circuits: Proper IC positioning is indicated by a dot or square
marking located on one end of the device. A corresponding mark will be silkscreened on the PC board and printed on the kit's parts-placement diagram. To
identify specific IC pin numbers for testing purposes, see the diagram below.
Pin numbers always begin at "1" at the keyed end of the case and progress along
the device, as shown:
Your kit should contain all of the parts listed below. Please identify and
inventory each item on the checklist before you start building. If any parts are
missing or damaged, refer to the manual's warranty section for replacement
instructions. If you can't positively identify an unfamiliar item on the basis of the
information given, set it aside until all other items are checked off. You may
then be able to identify it by process of elimination. Finally, your kit will go
together more smoothly if parts are organized by type and arranged by value
ahead of time. Use this inventory as an opportunity to sort and arrange parts so
you can identify and find them quickly.
In these instructions, when you see the term install, this means to locate, identify,
and insert the part into its mounting holes on the PC board. T his includes prebending or straightening leads as needed so force is not required to seat the part.
Once a component is mounted, bend each lead over to hold it in place. Use
sharp side-cutters to clip off excess lead length before soldering. Make sure
trimmed leads don't touch other pads and tracks, or a short circuit may result:
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