Union Special 39800VAW User Manual
INDUSTRIAL
SEWING
Fl
NES
T O
UALIT
STYLES
39800AA
00A
398
00A
398
39800AN
39800AP
39800AQ
39800AT
3980
0AW
B
L
®
Y
C O L U M B I A®
MACHINES
39800AX
39800AY
39800VAL
39800VAN
39800VAQ
39800VAW
39800VAX
39800VAY
CATALOG
No.
SMALL
FOUR
DIFFERENTIAL
QUICK
STITCH
CLASS
FRAME
AND
VERTICAL
39800
HIGH
FIVE
NEEDLE
WITH
CHANGE
SPEED
THREAD
FEED
MECHANISM
139AA
Thl,d UNION SPECIAL
Edition
CHICAGO
CORPORATION
Uni
on Special is offering
du
ce
your sewing ma chine maintenance costs: a record kee
re
system to he
and a part s inventory system
Ma
chine Maintenance Records
Repair-prone machines
up your maintenance dollars in s
Unio
record keeping system u
The first system utilizes a "Machi
Form 237)
(
qu
re
and their cost are entered
lp
spot machines requiring abnormally high maintenance,
n Special suggests tw o variations
for each
ired, the card is pulled
..
....
.......
P A
U:
.,
...
-.
two
practic
al
system s to help pinpoi
to
speed routine repairs.
or ine
xperienced competent operato
hort
order.
To help spot these problems,
of a si
si
ng cards provided by Union Special.
sew
ing machine in a plan
from
in
MACtUN
~
I I I I
...
"'
_
ne
the file and the repair date, parts used,
the spaces provided and the card is refiled.
lr MAlNT
aNAN
-
..
.
-·
mple maintenance
Maintenance Record" card
t.
When a repair is
CC A
ll:
COl'tD
.
....
-
...
~-
.,
..__
,. . .,.
_"
O
AHll'v
-.;.o
-·
'2,'31-
fOtt~a\
11.ac.'ll1"\atd
Rec.otd
The second system is
on repair costs is desired. Two record cards are used: a "Repair
Request Card"
233)
. When a machine requires service, the forelady
out
the top
of
fills in the time the repair
a "Repair Request Card" and gives it to a mechanic . He
(Form
normally
234)
, and a "Machine Repair Record "
work
l\tel\al\c.e
-
...
-.-
...
-
--
-
used when more detailed information
is started, the parts used and their cost,
...
(Form
or
foreman fills
nt
ping
rs
and
can eat
and the completion time. This data is then transferred to the permanent
"Machine Repair Record" kept in the office .
Whichever system is used, management now has
to reduce needless maintenance costs.
Repair Part Inventories
While record keeping tells management which machmes requ ire
abnormally hi
caused by routine repairs. To alleviate this situation, Union Special
recommends that manufacturers establish a formal
system
Excessi
be
eliminated with an orderly in-plant inventory
needed parts. There is no longer a need to cannibalize other ma chines
for
spare parts. Long waits for deliveries are avoided and mac
downtime is
when the overall savings are considered.
F
or
inventory lists for a variety
local
gh
maintenance,
for
each type
ve
machine
kept
MAo-tlNC ftEPAIR
NAIi&"
..
NUIIII
....
- ot -
- fOtt
- .
=-
11.ad""
-
of
sewing machine they operate.
downt
to
a minimum. The cost
MCORD
CARD
"
'>511
'
Im"
~
ti\
'2,'3'3-
1tRe" - -
11
eRe9
ime and wasted hours by mechanics can
-
free sample copies
Union
Special Representative
of
the machine record cards and spare part
of
it
does little to help reduce the downt
of
:::w
im
·
d c.atd -
the most popular machines, contact
REPAIR R IQUIIUIT
•.
.
I
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..
.....
....
...
I
....
,...
.....
•,m
-
..
·-
·-
..
-
-
:= ~ i'34-
- f otttl\
. ~ it l!,eque
:. Re
,.
....
. ,.'".
Tl•
H~"-SftD
l1
t1:C...
Aft
,c: •
or
write direct
an Invaluable
pa
rts invent
of
the
most commo
a parts inventory is small
....
,_
..
CARD
...
~AIIIT• UllllD
-·
NO --• •
---
st
to
~-
(.atd
-i-
--
----
Union
ory
hin
e
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
your
Special.
tool
ime
nly
Part
Number
39820
39820
22588
39830
39830
39830
39830
39805 A 12
39605
93
39826
39626
93
39824
39824 A 12
22524
A 5-1 / 8
or
A 1 2 -3 /
A
B
or
J
F
D
or
F-5-1 / 8
A
A
or
D
A 5-1 / 8
or
-3 /
-3 /
Description
Presser
16
Presser
Ma
16
Main
Different
Di
Throat
16
Throat
Minimum
Per 5
foot
foot
Screw
Lock
nut
scr
ew
for
1 2 3 / 1 6
nut screw
Lock
Hinge
screw
Spring
in
feed
dog
feed dog 1
rew
for
Sc
ial
fferential
Sc
rew
for
plate
plate
Screw
for
for
5-1 / 8
main feed dog 2
feed
dog
for
1 2 -3 / 1 6 1
feed
dog for 5-1 / 8 1
different
throat plate
ial feed d
Machines
og
2
1
1
2
•
Quantity
Part
Number
120
GS
39849
39870
9937
22588
39808
39860
39808
39808
22894
22564
22
KH
22652
28
C
22894
21225
29484
Cla
Su
ggested
J
8
or
A
AF
G
A-6
Y
3 /
32
39800
Minimum
Description
Needles
Lower
knife 4
Upper
knife
Nut
for
upper
Screw
for
Lower
looper
Spreader
Upper
looper
401
looper
Screw
for
Screw
for
Screw
for
Holder
screw
Screw
for
Set
screw
Looper gauge
Screw
Assortment
Spare Parts
(speci
fy size
)
knife
lower
knife clamp 2
40
1 looper 4
upper looper 3
upper
looper
needles 4
for
take-
up
lever
List•
Minimum
Per 5 Machines
holder collar
Quantity
100
4
2
3
1
4
*The parts and quant
setting up the initial inventory
can only be established according to actual usage. The nature of the
sewing operation wi
it
ies listed above
ll
determine actual usage.
of
spare parts . An
are
intended to assist you in
eff
icient inventory
Cat
a 1 o g
No.
1 3 9
AA
I N S T R U C T I O N S
F O R
A D J U S T I N G A N D O P E R A T I N G
L I S T O F P A R T S
C L A S S 3 9 8 0 0
S T Y L E S
3 9 8 0 0
3 9 8 0 0
3 9 8 0 O
3 9 8 0 0
3 9 8 0 0
3 9 8 0 0
3 9 8 0 0
3 9 8 0 0
T h i r d E d i t i
©1976
AA
AB
AL
AN
AP
AQ
AT
AW
and
B y
3 9 8 O 0
3 9 8 0 0
3 9 8 0 0
3 9 8 0 0
3 9 8 0 0
3 9 8 0 0
3 9 8 0 0
3 9 8 0 0
o n
1977
AX
AY
VAL
VAN
VAQ
VAW
VAX
VAY
U n i o n S p e c i a 1 C o r p o r a t i o n
R i g h t s R e s e r v e d i n A 1 1 C o u n t r i e s
UNION SPECIAL CORPORATION
INDUSTRIAL
SEWING
CHICAGO
MACHINES
Printed
in
U.
S.
March, 1981
3
A.
Each
plate
numbers
39800
a
standard
on
have
M".
UNION
the
machine.
one
Special
machine,
SPECIAL
or
more
Style
a "Z"
machine
Style
letters
numbers
is
IDENTIFICATION
is
identified
numbers
are
suffixed
contain
suffixed
classified
but
the
to
the
OF
by a
Styl
never
letter
Standard
MACHINES
e number
as
Standard
contain
"Z".
When
Style
which
and
the
letter
only
number.
is
stamped
Special.
"Z".
minor
Example:
changes
Example:"Style
into
Standard
are
39800
the
Style
"Style
made
name
in
MZ".
Styles
from
the
The
gauge
number
overedge
edge
represent
of
5/64
stitch)
hand
needle.
This
can
also
to
direction,
while
Vertical
ential
style
distance
is
inch
and
catalog
be
seated
Needle,
Feed
of
measured
represented
the
applied
at
with
ming Mechanism
Cooling
39800 M
left
duty
System.
Two
needle
machine
ladies'
similar
Seam
operations
specification
(1.98-3.18
ed
main
feed
R.P.M.
machines
number
between
the
machine
(1.98
mm)
1/8
applies
such
the
Small
Quick
with
loopers,
and
for
blouses,
mm)
and
similar
in
that
the
in
l/64ths
by a
gauge.
between
inch
(3.18
specifically
with
discretion
as
right,
machine.
Frame,
Stitch
Spring
one
Pressed
spreader,
503 two
simultaneously
street
on
light
(401-503)
and
12-3/16
operator
in
construction
it
contains
rows
of
of
fraction.
an
no
stitches
inch
Collectively,
Example: 115-1/8
the
left
mm)
needle
represents
APPLICATION
to
the
to
some
left,
front,
Operating
High
Speed,
direction
STYLES
back,
OF
Two
Change Mechanism,
Lower
thread
Knife,
four
thread
overedge
seaming
and
house
dresses,
to
medium
weight
515-SSa-2;
(4.76-4.76
adjustable
mm);
differential
are
letters.
or
between
(.40
mm),
11
(401
the
width
OF
CATALOG
Standard
Special
etc.,
of
MACHINES
Straight
Light,
Automatic
dual
stitch
and
overedging
coat
durable
standard
stitch
grouped
•
Thus,
stitch)
Styles
handwheel
under a class
Example: ·
going
the
of
Styles
are
"class
the
needles
from
gauge number and
5-1/8
gauge
and
the
overedge
of
of
machines
given
from
is
Needles,
Left
left
machi
Medium and Heavy Duty
Lubricating
on
and
stitch;
right
rear nee
on
jacket
press
401
sport
linings,
or
gauge and seam
range 7 to
feed.
Maximum
number
39800".
is
represented
to
right.
the
width
represents a distance
right
needle
to
the
right
nes
as
listed
in
this
class.Reference
the
away from
operator's
Needle
operator.
in
Front,
Machines,
System.
double
locked
dle.
and
dress
pillow
conventional
widths
12
per
inch;
Improved Ai r
stitch
Light
shirts,
cases
materials.
are
5-1/8
cam
recommended
which
by a
The
width
of
(503
of
the rig
herein.It
position
to
medium
adjust-
speed
differs
over-
or
504
Differ-
Trim-
on
and
7000
of
ht
39800
39800
39800
39800
39800
AB
Same
locked
Seam
stitch
specification
(1.98-3.18
AL
Three
504
three
duty
machine f
work
shirt
ification
(401-503)
recommended
AN
Same
presser
blouses
foot
and similar
(401-504)
stitch.
515
(4.76-4.76
AP
Sarne
j a
ckets,
sport
operations
R.P.M .
AQ
Sarne
locked
Se
stitch
am
specification
as
Style
on
left
mm)
and
loopers,
thread
overedge
itted
s ,
robes,
(401-504)
515
stitch;
speed
6500 R.P.M.
as
Style
for
general
516-
SSa-2. Machine
Standard
mm);
stitch
as
Style
shirts,
on
medium
as
Style
on
left
39800
M,
needle
(401-504)
12-3/16
five
thread
stitch
with
39600
pajamas
516
SSa-2,
standard
39800
AB,
purpose seaming
garme
nts
gauge
range 7 to
39800
M,
street
to
medium
39800 AP,
needle
(401-504)
except
and
516-SSa-2.
(4.76-4.76
504
dual
on
three
three
mm)
stitch,
right
loopers,
thread
Standard
401
rear nee
five
overedge
gauge
double
dle.
sewing parts; for setting slee
and
jackets
Machine comes
gauge
except
made of
com
es
and
seam
except
and
heav
except
and 504
516-SSa-
of
and seam
l i
ght
light
with a sp
widths
12
per
medium
house
dresses, coat
y we
ight
three
thr
ee
2.
light
to
medium we
with a spreader
width
to
heavy
on
men's and women' s
to hea
rea
are
inch.
to
heavy
12-3/16
duty
vy
weight
der
for field conversion
8-3/16
Maximum
duty
materials.
looper
s , f
ive
thread ove
thread
and
locked
High ca
stitch
seam
ves and
ight
for
dual
on
widths
stitch
pacity,
mater i
field
stitch;
right rear nee
side
(4.76-4.76
machine with a narrow
pants,
mate
(3.18-4.76
recommended
for
opera
linings, s
Maximum
thread
redge stitch
dual
jackets,
rials. Seam specification
mm)
speed
tions
houlder pads
recommended s
stitch;
on
right rear
401
double
are
5-1/8
on left needl
light
to
medium
seaming
als.
Seam spec-
conversion
nun).
Maximum
hinged
shirts,
to a (40
and
1-5
12-3/16
6500 R.P.M.
on slacks,
and
peed
401
double
needle
dle.
e and
on
to
03)
simil
6500
a
ar
.
4
STYLES
OF
MACHINES
(Continued)
39800
39800
39800
39800
39800
39800
39800
AT
Same
with
widths
4.76
field
foot
associated
only.
associated
only.
cutter
cutter.
cutter.
AW
AX
AY
VAL
VAN
VAQ
swing-out
are
nun);
conversion
Same
and
Same
Same
Same
Same
Same
as
Style
5-1/8
stitch
as
Style
sewing
as
Style
sewing
as
Style
sewing
as
Style
as
Style
as
Style
39800
pressure
(1.98-3.18
range 8 to
to a (401-503)
39800
parts
39800 AP,
parts.
39800
parts.
39800
39800
39800
AQ,
plate
AN,
for
AQ,
AL,
AN,
AQ,
except
shirring
mm),
16
per
515
except
heavy
Standard
Standard
seam
except
except
except
except
except
light
8-3/16
inch.
stitch.
fitted
crossing.
equipped
gauge
equipped
gauge
equipped
equipped
equipped
to
medium
attachment.
(3.18-4.76
Machine comes
with a narrow
with
and
seam
with
and
seam
with
with
with
duty, 3 to 1 shirring
Standard
mm)
and
with a spreader
tractor
width
tractor
width
"AIR-KLIPP;' vacuum
"AIR-KLIPP" vacuum
"AIR-KLIPP" vacuum
12-3/16
12-3/16
gauge
12-3/16
tractor
type
type
type
presser
(4.76-4.76
presser
(4.76-4.76
ratio
and seam
(4.76-
for
presser
foot
foot
chain
chain
chain
and
mm)
and
mm)
39800
39800
39800
rated
ation
ine
to
mum
ended
ment
ed
A
straight
should
®"AIR
VAW
Same
cutter.
VAX
Same
cutter.
VAY
Same
cutter.
These
may
running
reduce
The 39800
performance,
of
CAUTION!
before
KLIPP"
machines
speeds.
necessitate
the
speed
precision
beginning
mineral
be
used.
cycle
for
is a registered
as
Style
as
Style
as
Style
Varied
and a
machine's
is a precision
the
the
mechanisms.
Oil
was
oil
39800
39800
39800
have
field
operating
longer
speed
machine
first
drained
to
operate.
of a Saybolt
AW,
AQ,
AY,
SPEED
been
tested
conditions,
by 10-15%.
manufactured
should
20
days
from
trademark
except
except
except
equipped
equipped
equipped
RECOMMENDATION
in
their
severity
at a lower
than
recommended
be
of
field
OILING
machine
Oil
capacity
viscosity
of
speed.
and
operated
operation.
when
Union
with
with
with
complete
and
When
stitch
tested
at
1000 R.P.M. below
shipped,
of
Class
of
90
to
Special
"AIR-KLIPP" vacuum
"AIR-KLIPP" vacuum
"AIR-KLIPP" vacuum
stitch
cleanliness
operating
length,
sewing
This
39800
125
Corporation.
range
machine.
will
so
reservoir
is
seconds
at
of
from 50-100% mach-
it
may
minimize
six
ounces
at
their
the
sewing
be
To
maximum
must
100°
chain
chain
chain
maximum
oper-
necessary
obtain
readjust-
Fahrenheit
recomm-
be
(180
maxi-
fill-
ml).
5
OILING
(Continued)
Machine
machines,
ing
located
Oil
level
dicator
main
quired.
operating
should
It
have
shank,
the
and
which
should
Machine
reservoir
To
maintain
oil
The
is a magnetic
entered
Needles
point,
needle
eye.
is
is
filled
an
oil
filler
directly
is
checked
show
is
automatically
filled.
maximum
continuously,
remain
oil
shank,
Collectively,
given
drain
the
have
length,
on
screw
crank
in
both a type
denotes
the
with
fitting
in
front
at
sight
between
Check
machine
plug
screw
designed
case.
groove,
type
label
oil
at
has
of
the
gauge
gauge
lubricated.
oil
recommended
the
oil
must
for
more
is
located
to
It
should
and
finish
largest
number
of
all
spring
been
provided
lower
on
front
lines
daily
size
diameter
when
before
speed
be
changed
than
at
accumulate
be
NEEDLES
number. The
and
other
and
size
needles
cap
under
in
overedge
of
machine.
machine
No
oiling
the
and
serviceability
at
one
year.
back
removed and
of
packaged
of
possible
details.
blade,
number
the
top
the
back
looper
is
stationary.
is
necessary,
morning
least
machine
type
represent
and
every
foreign
cleaned
number
The
measured
sold
cover.
side
thread
Red
bulb
start;
of
near
size
midway
the
by Union
On
later
of
the
tension
on
oil
other
add
this
six
months.In
bottom
materials
periodically.
denotes
number,
complete
than
oil
equipment
edge
the
between
Special.
model
bed
post
level
keeping
as
re-
no
of
which
kind
stamped
shank
symbol
cast-
nut.
in-
when
case
base.
may
of
on
Two
mended
Size
gauges
125/049
groove,
radius
090/036,
able
it
able
available
needle,
plete
needles
090/036
for
for
Type 120
struck
at
Type 120
in
sizes
Other
has a reduced
Type 120
in
same
Type 120
To
have
or
order
straight
are
for
Styles
Styles
GS
groove,
scarf,
100/040,
GAS
110/044,
useable
GHS
sizes.
GKS
in
sizes
needle
type
would
needles
Type 120
Styles
39800
39800
is a round
chromium
110/044,
is
needles
eye
and
is
the
is
the
075/029, 080/032,
orders
and
size
read:
39800
AL,
AP,
ball
the
same
125/049
groove;
same
same
number
"1000
of
GS,
AN,
shank,
eye,
plated
125/049
are
promptly
the
same
size
AP,
AT,
AQ, AX, AY,
spotted,
needle
as
Type 120
and
Type 120
available
as
Type 120
as
Type 120
should
Needles,
length
080/032
AQ-5
AW,
round
and
140/054.
090/036,
and
be
Type 120
are
for
1/8
gauge,
VAL,
and
140/054.
GFS
accurately
VAN,
VA.X
and
point,
rounded
is
GS
except
which
in
sizes
GS
except
GHS
except
100/040
forwarded.
used
Style
39800
VAQ,
VAY-12
set
point,
scarf,
available
it
is
the
110/044
it
it
filled,
Use
GS,
Size
in
these
39800
M,
VAW.
3/16
with a 3/64
in
has a modified
same
has a thin
has
and
description
080/032".
machines.
M,
AB-12
Type 120
gauge
extra
sizes
as
and
125/049.
an
oversize
110/044.
an empty
AB-5
short,
Type 120
The
recom-
1/8
gauge;
3/16
gauge;
GAS,
machines.
double
inch
075/029,
point;
ball
point;
ball
package, a sample
on
label.
and
size
(1.19
080/032,
avail-
GS
except
avail-
eye;
A com-
mm)
all
should
Selection
pass
of
freely
proper
throu~h
needle
needle
size
eye
is
determined
in
order
6
to
produce
by
size
of
thread
a good
stitch
used.
formation.
Thread
CHANGING
NEEDLES
Release
(A,
Fig.
position,
To
needle
that
tighten
presser
release
is
thread
through
NOTE:
code)
tension
and
slot
threaded
(E).
the
Thread
is
down
All
(M)
(P).
1, 2 or
loosen
replace
head
as
scarf
screws
arm (B)
lever
from
guide
the
lower
Thread
threaded
thread
through
other
in
tension
pressur
2A)
screws
needles,
far
of
(C, Fi
to
(A).
thread
through
(D)
from
No.
guide
tension
threads
e on
and
as
they
the
needles
g.
position;
THREADING
the
front
holes
2 (401
through
(D)
post
presser
swing
(C,
Fig.
insert
will
1)
securely.
stand
upper
from
looper -blue
the
from
post
continue
(J)
presser
same
go,
are
lock
(C,
holes
to
back
back
upper
back
thread
and on
foot
1)
to
presser
Fig. 2 or
to
between
by
arm
in
needle
into
assuring
the
Return
of
tension
and
then
front.
color
hole
to
front
bar
through
turning
(B)
head
rear,
foot
2A)
of
eyelet
the
tension
its
presser
out
proper
of
position.
and
discs
foot
withdraw
(L),
hole
in
release
With
needles.
Fig.
through
front
lever
needles
1
thread
tension
guide
at
high
post
It
will
quence
1,
have
follows:
401
color
VAQ,
thread -golden
thread
needle
NOTE:
VAW,
direction
pressure
er
as
then
No.
been
Thus,
looper
code;
The
VAW,
No.
thread -green
Refer
VAX
Before
arm (B)
simplify
designated
2,
color
the
Thread
thread -blue
thread
threading
VAX
3,
to
and
VAY
beginning
until
on
presser
out
etc.
coded
threading
No.
1,
No.
sequence
and
VAY
beige
504
upper
Fig. 2 for
to a four
the
needles
foot
of
position.
the
by
The
to
lower
4,
(504
color
color
to
threading
the
numbers
various
further
sequence
looper
color
401
for
stitch)
code;
looper
code;
conversion
thread
thread,
(R,
by
turning
of
these
assigned
eyelets
aid
for
code;
needle
Styles
is
thread
thread -black
thread
(503
swing
Fig. 2 or
presser
and
the
threading
Styles
thread -golden
thread
thread -red
39800
as
follows:
No.
No.
of
Styles
stitch).
cloth
machines
to
guides
39800
No.
AB,
2,
color
5,
plate
2A)
are
foot
each
process.
M,
beige
3,
overedge
color
AL,
Thread
401
looper
code;
401
needle
39800
open,
at
release
to
follow
thread,
on
the
AP
code.
AN, AQ,
No.
AL,
turn
their
lever
the
startin
machine
and
AX
color
needle
AT,
1,
thread -blue
thread
thread -red
AN,
AT,
handwheel
highest
g
for
(503
code;
thread -green
AW,
504
lower
No.
AW,
position,
(A),
and
recommended
with
stitch)
thread
AY,
4,
VAL,
thread
each
thread
is
No.
VAL,
VAN,
looper
color
overedge
color
in
swing press-
code.
VAN,
operatin
release
se-
No.
as
2,
code;
VAQ,
g
7
n Tension
11
Tension
Discs
Post
I""---
Slot
Ill
Tension
#
39899A
Threader
. o· c
is
Felt
8
Fi
g.
2
II
11
Ill
NOTE: Thre~
Upper
Loop\ LEF
thru
ONLY~
Take-Up
Wire
Tension
Tension
Tension
d
•3
for
should
e (U)
Discs
Post
Disc
go
T
I,"'
Slot
Felt
a
I
y
AC
9
Fig.
#39899A
Threader
I
2A
Turn
Use
threading
(T) and
or
in
front
protrudes
thread
the
left
left
position;
and
through
handwheel
push
of
out
(No. 1)
end
of
the
THREADING
wire
through
cast-off
of
same
into
tube
then
right
until
#39899 A
same;
the
thread
the
blade
in
front
threading
(T).Turn
eye,
LOWER
(Fig. 2 or
through
lower
entering
LOOPER
point
(V)
and
of
the
wire
handwheel
looper
of
the
through
front
from
(Golden
lower
2A)
by
inside
and
pull
until
through
the
looper
inserting
of
long
thread
back
the
its
front.
Beige
(S)
take-up
tube
guide
until
lower
left
Color)
is
all
into
wires
(W)
(P).
the
looper
eye,
the
the
(U)
until
Hook
thread
(S)
entering
way
left
passing
the
lower
is
to
the
end
of
tube
over
threading
looper
comes
at
its
from
out
extreme
the
right.
and/
wir
of
rear
e
Double end
thread
sion
bottom
Thread
(AB)
from
of
imately
of
ion
LOOPER.
of
VAQ,VAW,
(AG)
(AH)
in
through
the
tube
thread
of
through
and
left
thread
thread
of
thread
Turn handwheel
upper
from
from
front
After
tube
thread
(X)
eyelet
tension
over
to
right
into
and
inch
into
REMOVE
looper
VAX
and
back
left
of
the
pulling
assembly
through
THREADING
of
401
or
use
(Y)
post,
adjustable
the
take-up,
and
right
or
so
left
eye,from
from
point
LOOP,
THREADING
until
thread
VAY)
to
front
to
right;
RIGHT
up
the
looper
threading
from
back
then
continuing
eyelets
under
up
through
eye
of
looper
of
thread.
front
of
tweezers.
OTHERWISE
UPPER
point
(No. 3 on
and
lead
and
then
passing
take-up
the
upper
and
pull
eye
of
401
LOOPER
thread
wire
to
(AA)
thread
eyelet
Holding
to
MACHINE
LOOPER
of
upper
Styles
the
thread
through
through
wire.
looper
thread
the
upper
(Blue
(No. 2) and
#39899 A
front
(AE)
forward
from
guide
on
from
back,
DO
WILL
looper
39800
both
the
thread
out
looper
passing
tweezers
NOT
(Black
through
bottom
Color
in
to
left
wires
shank
right
using
THREAD
NOT
(AF)
AB,
eyes
inside
tube
(AF)
Code)
feed
to
SEW.
Color
of
same from
reverse
between
the
cast-off
right
(AC),through
of
looper
to
left
in
left
about
AL,
the
of
assembly
3/16
LOOPER
Code)
is
all
AN,
auxiliary
the
of
the
tube.
from
right
manner;thread
tension
passing
(AE).
pushing
hand,
WITH
the
AQ,
upper
LEFT
(AJ),
Push
front
inch
way
AT,
looper
looper
tube
to
discs
support
under
pigtail
Insert
through
insert
(4.76
NEEDLE
AW,
take-up
lead
back.
to
left.
AY,
down
left
through
around
plate
cast-off
eyelet
doubled
approxdoubled
mm)
project-
LOOP
AROUND
Double end
VAL,
thread
thread
-wire
thread
and
(U)
insert
through
ten-
the
(Z).
wire
(AD)
end
end
VAN,
eyelet
eyelet
and
down
Styles
the
right
eyes
needle
finally
39800
eye
on
needle
thread
to
left,
front,
the
eye
Pass
39800
of
thread
Pass
AB,
needle
thread
cam
down
the
AB,
eye
needle
through
the
AL,
pull-off
and
down
through
of
the
THREADING
overedge
AL,
of
needle
thread
cam
pull-off
the
eye
THREADING
401
needle
AN, AQ,
thread
pull-off
(AP), up
through
lower
left
needle
AN, AQ,
AT,
frame
OVEREDGE
needle
thread
pull-off
(AM)
of
the
thread
AW,
eyelet
eyelet
both
eyelet
(R) from
thread
AT,
AW,
frame
eyelet
and
right
401
NEEDLE
(No. 4
AY,
VAL,
(AK)
(AN)
through
holes
on
NEEDLE
(No. 3 on
AY,
eyelet
(AL)
down
needle
on
VAN,
from
from
needle
in
left
front
right
top
(Green
VAL,
VAN,
(AK)
from
through
(R) from
(Red
Color
Styles
VAQ,
back
to
thread
eyelet
side
of
to
back.
10
Color
Styles
from
right
the
39800
VAW,
to
left,
needle
Code)
39800
VAQ,
VAW,
back
to
left,
right
front
Code)
AA,
VAX
and
front,down
passing
adjustable
(AS)
on
head,
AA,
AP
and
VAX
and
VAY)
to
front,
passing
eyelet
to
back.
AP
and AX;No. 5 on
VAY)
through
in
eyelet
needle
then
through
on
needle
through
front
(AR)
head
finally
AX;
in
front
both
of
from
from
No. 4
through
both
of
head,
Styles
the· left
eyes
needle
right
back
through
on
of
to
THREAD
TENSION
The amount
knurled
to
secure
with
ed.
particular
justing
the
As a start,
Fig.
Further
of
tension
proper
needles
instructions.
nuts,(F,
stitch
at
the
3
refinement
seam,
thread
tension
Fig. 2 or
formation.
the
top
approximate
401
needle
out
of
Overedge
straight
Lower
out
Upper
out
401
out
looper
of
looper
bottom
looper
of
of
or
on
the
of
their
thread;
lower
left
eye
thread
material
eyelet
needle
out
of
thread;
end
thread;
of
thread;
at
PRESSER
needle
2A).
tensions
thread
point
tension
and
Tension
Using a postal
stroke
should
2
to 2 1/2
on
thread;
lower
of
and
FOOT
eyelet
1
thread
1
tube
1
to 1 1/2
of
adjustments
is
PRESSURE
looper
on
and
pulled
be
oz.
left
side
1
1/2
to 2 oz.(42.52
on
to 1 1/2
tube
to 1 1/2
assembly
oz.(28.35
looper
discussed
(AE,
threads
the
threads
scale,
in
as
follows:
(56.70
of
needle
right
oz.
(28.35
(T,
Fig. 2 or
oz.(28.35
(AJ,
Fig. 2 or
will
at
the
is
regulated
should
the
measurements
the
direction
to
70.87
head.
to
side
of
to
2A).
to
42.52
Fig.
2A).
to
42.52
2A).
be
required
conclusion
be
gr)
56.70
needle
42.52
gr)
by
only
as
straight
gr)
head.
gr)
gr)
straight
to
suit
of
the
the
enough
are
taken
indicat-
straight
straight
a
ad-
Sufficient
necessary
nut
(A,
Fig.
thread
sure
ing
(C)
from
nut
mately
10
gauges);
Styles
gauge
eccentric
the
39540 B-8
The
differential
obtainable
shipped
so
adjusting
screw
so
that
the
(C).
Feed
11
stitches
39800
machines).
main
differential
Minor numbers
with
to
increase
3) and
tightening
screw
(B).
its
top
surface
eccentrics
stitches
per
39800
AP,
AN,
for
machines
feed
eccentrics
is
the
feed
when
eccentrics
pressure
turn
increases
(B)
With
using
under
per
inch
AQ
AW,
It
will
main
feed
eccentric
of
presser
of
used
(2.5
VAN,
eccentric
that
to
feed
or
decrease
the
has
surface
adjusting
in
inch
(2.3
mm
(5
1/8
VAW
be
producing
for
feed
eccentric
for
the
part
eccentric.
as
stated
work
amount
adjusting
the
pressure,
been
properly
foot
resting
is
approximately
screw
FEED
these
per
gauge)
noted
machines
mm
stitch)
(all
11
for
the
symbol
in
machines
per
and 8 stitches
gauges);
that
stitches
Styles
remaining
uniformly
of
screw
set,
on
(B).
ECCENTRICS
stitch)
on
part
producing
for
machines
39800
indicate
Unless
previous
should
pressure
(B).
loosening
tighten
the
throat
1/32
Set
have
been
on
Styles
39800
AP,
number 39540 B-11
per
inch;
10
AA
Styles
approximately
otherwise
paragraph.
be
maintained.
on
presser
Adjusting
decreases
lock
plate,
to
1/16
the
cap
(D)
selected
Style
39800
per
stitches
producing 8 stitches
and
39800
AA,
inch
AQ,
AX,
39540 B-9
AB
is
39540
specified,
nut
inch
AB,
(3.2
per
is
the
foot,
screw
against
AY,
39540
F.
has a right
pressure.When
(A)
position
(.79
to
produce
AT
(all
AL,
mm
per
VAX,
is
the
or
39540 B-10
inch,
E,
number
machine
Should
loosen
against
locking
to
1.59
the
approxi-
gauges);
VAL,
VAQ
stitch)
VAY
main
while
per
while
of
it
lock
hand
pres-
adjust-
nnn)
locking
(all
(12
3/16
feed
are
inch.
the
stitches
will
be
nut
on
be
Generally
ed;
the
direction
Styles
main
of
of
machines
speaking,
(left
stretch
hand)
of
use
differential
feed
material
two
identical
eccentrics
being
eccentrics
feed
are
sewn,
11
determines
selected
or
the
for
the
in
type
the
number
relation
of
operation.
main
feed
of
to
driv
stitches
the
degree
For
a .
produc-
and
thes
e
FEED
ECCENTRICS
(Cont
i nued)
following
The
7,
8,
9,
10,
11,
Additional
39540 B
eccentrics
with a minor
Example: "39540
ASSEMBLING
cloth
lower
Before
plate,
knife
assembling
fabric
holder
quence.
CLOTH
loosen
cloth
screw
CAUTION:
the
plate
(D)
When
cloth
with
assembled.
stitch
12,
13,
may
number
B-10".
AND
guard,
assembly,
PLATE
removing
plate
the
cloth
and
to
yet
the
(C)
curely
so
number
14.
be
ordered
suffixed
ADJUSTING
and
adjusting
chip
then
REMOVAL
the
stud
locking
plate
In
assembly,
the
cloth
the
point
turn
in
machine
towards
which
that
only
feed
Only two
SEWING
guard,
follow
AND
ASSEMBLY
cloth
screw
stud
plate
of
removing
cloth
with
the
rear.
collapses
the
eccentrics
eccentrics
separately.
to
indicate
PARTS
sewing
upper
parts,
knife
this
plate
(A,
(B)
(C)
and
the
cloth
stud
are
all
plate.
the
The
flat
Stud
the
cloth
plate
are
available
are
To
order
number
remove
assembly,
suggested
Fig.
and
lift
cloth
plate
plate
tightened
play
cloth
and
"V"
locking
body
of
will
supplied
an
of
stitches
se-
4)
up
\
screw
and
plate
slot
of
screw
the
stud
turn
when
under
with
eccentric,
is
then
the
cloth
(B)
is
to
the
opening
No.
39540 B; 6
each
machine.
use
desired.
Fig.
4
assembled
plate
tightened
screw
or
No.
to
stud
se-
(D)
closing.
Fig.
lever
turning
(C,
needle
eccentric
(C)
to
the
as
required
When
proper
obtained,
and
tighten
drive lever
thro
at
plate
39800
AP,
needles
lever
needle
in
bottom
at
AA
AQ,
AT,
at
(C, Fig
height.
g i t on
to
the
bottom
and
rate heights
ines.
Tighten
center
needle
6)
loosening set
5 (B,
Figs. 5 and
head
guide
and
sliding
left
tighten
top
to
alleviate
left
scr
ew (B,
(C,
which
AB;
AW,
of
or
to
set
Fig
17/32
AX,
stroke
right
right
s.
should
AY,
s. 5 and
Needl
top
of the
r est on
, one f
top
of
their
or high,
scr
ew (B, Fig.
With
in
head
can
be
Fig.
(B,
Fig.
6);
then
bar
the needle
on
bind.
needle
screw
s (B, Fig. 5)
Fig.
6)
5 & 6)
be
inch
VAL,
(W,
6) l i
ghtly
e gauge
throat
of
the
stroke.
SETTING
throat
the
plate
throat
(A,
Figs. 5 and
repositioned
screws
5)and
6)
in
binder
needle
simultaneously
(D)
which
drive lever
needle
pos
rock
i ti
lightly.
must also be
7/16
inch
(13.49
mm)
VAN, VAQ,
Fig.
No.
plate
gauge.
the
6)
7).
up
or
21227
and
bring
This will
Note
other
that
for
securely.
assembled
plate
by
screw
drive
i s
an
shaft
on
is
securely
Needle
positioned
(11.11
on
Styles
VAW,
Tap
the
down
DD
can
ing
the
low
THE
NEEDLES
in
needle
to
mm)
on
Styles
39800
VAX
and
VAY
needle
to
obtain desired
be
used
the needl
ha
ve
the needles
gauge has
capacity
position,
slots
set
AL,
with
drive
by
plac-
e he
sepa-
mach-
(left
height
AN
ad
the
to
Fig.
of
Fig.
needles
r i
ght).
6
needles
7
should
The
above
12
SETTING
OVEREDGE
LOWER
LOOPER
of
needle
When
scarf,
that
so
.000
Check
fere
lower
to
be
with
Fig.
scarf.
SETTING
overedge
set
overedge
it
touches
to
.004
to
ensure
with
the
knife
free
needle
the
to
8
Needle
OVEREDGE
lower
but
inch
(.000
that
lower
holder.
pass
through
down.
height
REAR
looper
rear
needle
does
to
needle
looper
Screw (B)
Insert
With
looper
needle
but
ance.
or
looper
for
throat
bracket
setting,looper
NEEDLE
or
the
not
backward
.025
(.229
point
not
.102
guard
movement
is
needle
lower
point
(C).
deflect,
Adjustment
gauge
inch
plate
mm)
shims
if
may
have
GUARD
is
guard
deflect
mm)
clearance.
does
used
the
lower
looper
3/32
Set
around
setting
(.635
stitch
No.
needed,
point
to
at
needle
(A,
Fig.
the
not
inter-
of
the
to
set
eye
without
looper
at
the
left
inch
looper
approximately
can
be
needle,
(2.38
be
its
shank.
and
mm)
tongue
39880 J
but
not
should
changed
9)
the
rear
being
point
made by
tighten
minimum
(see
under
to
be
if
needle
(A,
Fig.
end
of
nnn)
from
into
.001
rocking
Recheck
nut
looper
sketch).
throat
exceed
at
or
more
pinched
8)
its
centerline
needle
inch
specified
(D,
clearance
two
slightly
than
guard.
by
into
bar
stroke,
scarf
(.025
the
looper
Fig.
8).
Add
.009
plate
shims.
below
one shim
The
needle
the
needle
(B).
set
of
right
to
touch
nnn)
clearforward
lower
Check
under
inch
support
For
proper
center
is
guard
used.
thread
is
the
or
the
Insert
looper
out,
shaft
or
Fig.
upper
or
turned
and
9
looper
spreader
around
allows
the
or
in
its
holder
spreader
its
holder
shank.
With
edge
needle
flect
clearance.
eye.
After
terference
feed
NOTE:
39808 A
Use
through
to
needle,
Screw
making
dog.
SETTING
looper
(A,
and
Screw (C)
be
rotated
SETTING
needle
guard
Guard
between
OVEREDGE UPPER
When
using
for
needle
No.
140/054.
Fig.
permits
OVEREDGE
at
bottom
(C,
.000
to
should
(D)
is
used
adjustment,
needle
upper
sizes
39808 C
10)
in
its
looper
in
the
collar,
or adjusted
FRONT
Fig.
.004
not
to
make
looper,
075/029
for
holder.
or
laterally.
NEEDLE
position,
9)
to
inch
set
guards
LOOPER
needle
spreader
(.000
pinch
front
sure
use
holds
GUARD
set
front
touch
and
through
Screw (B)
but
to
thread
needle
there
differential
OR
SPREADER
looper
sizes
to
be
the
holder
110/044
over-
not
de-
.102
mm)
in
needle
guard.
i s no
100/040.
push
in-
No.
holds
ed
in
in
13
SETTING
OVEREDGE
UPPER
LOOPER
OR
SPREADER
(Continued)
NOTE:
Machine
Styles
39800
39800
39800
39800
AQ,
AT,
VAL,
VAW,
size.
CAREFULLY
eye
looper
the
NOTE:
with
approximately
point
centerline
Specific
AA
AB
AP,
AL,
AW,
VAN,
VAX,
Fig.
Lines
set
or
"X"
Degrees
Back
AX
AN,
AY
VAQ,
VAY
10
looper
the
of
the
settings
(Fig.
in
10)
Approximate
Shank
of
Vertical
150
45°
150
450
right
should
or
degrees
with
all
approximately
above
AB.
looper/spreader
settings
and "Z"
with
setting
1/32
on
approximately
Styles
bed
casting
or
spreader
.002
inch
lower
right
point
needle
for
the
"Y"
Lower
Left
of
5/32
(3.97
---------
5/32
(3.97
----------
When
looper
end
be
spreader
back
the
top
Styles
the
On
later
are
except
respect
should
inch
all
Styles
39800
represent
point
(.051
of
the
and
various
(Fig.
Spreader's
Point
of
Right
inch
nnn)
inch
mm)
or
of
its
set
to
shank
of
of
except
1/16
holder
machines
the
for
to
(.79
nnn)
except
3/32
AA,
to
cross
mm)
spreader
"Z"
machine
11)
to
Centerline
Needle
spreader
stroke,
position
approximately
vertical
holder
on
holder
same
top
be
AB.
15,
clearance.
dimension
(Fig.
39800
AA,
inch
(1.59
Styles
with
(See
for
location
of
holder.
approximately
above
39800
inch
(2.38
These
3.0
and 45
lower
should
Styles,
(Fig.
"Y"
Looper
to
Left
line
of
-------------
11/64
(4.
37
mm)
--------------
5/32
inch
(3.97
is
the
the
and
AB,
39800
the
Fig.
"X",
of
the
AA,
settings
looper ·to
At
be
above
at
the
holder
looper
"X"
flush
10),
and
nnn)
AA,
new
lOA),
"Y",
shank
This
holder
AB
nnn)
degrees
extreme
set
the
mm)
on
and
above
are
of
Right
inch
may
the
"Y"
throat
as
follows:
11)
Point
Center-
Needle
the
top
vary
back
of
left
left
end
dimension
plate
(Fig.
"Z"
Above
Throat
19/32
(15.08
9/16
(14.29
21/32
(16.
21/32
(16.
Fig.
of
holder
depending
vertical.
of
lower
of
travel,
to
the
(Fig.
11)
Height
inch
inch
inch
67
inch
67
11
on
on
needle
looper
the
left
11).
nnn)
nnn)
mm)
mm)
of
Now
no
deflection.
of
its
holder
These
tween
crossover
some
shank
screw
against
same
looper
needle
Insert
strikes
while
check
flat
relationship
If
slightly
adjustments,
or
spreader
setting.
deflection
401
stitch
the
looper
working
on
shank.
needle
and
NOTE:
may
looper
the
between
rubs
rotate
in
opposite
and
On
result,
SETTING
shaft.
looper
back
the
needle.
larger
into
Looper
blade
looper
of
either,
holder
movement,
Reset
size
needles
but
should
401
STITCH
looper
will
to
and
or
spreader
pull
forward a short
will
reduce
to
lower
(125/049
not
exceed
LOOPER
holder
be
fro
and
at
to
correct
secure
and
looper
looper
press
needle
the
and
.002
down
height.
accurate
14
or
spreader
distance.
clearance
and
recheck
140/054),
inch
to
until
ensure
out
be-
(.051
the
Tighten
seating
nnn).
butt
of
the
clamp
Fig.
end
looper
of
screw
lOA
the
clamp
SETTING
401
STITCH
LOOPER
(Continued)
Fig.
and remove
align
respectively,
uniform
ing
avoid
the
the
setting,
letter
link.
12
bottom
letter
Recommended
with
on
cover.
"S",
position
the
"M"
timing
eccentric
er
(Fig.
looper
looper.
to
needle
(.025
(Fig.
for
throat
looper
from
will
"NEEDLES"
adjustment
Loosen
or
"L"
mark
the
settings
With
3/32
12),
holder
the
needle,
without
mm)
13).
.025
plate.
These
avoid
075/029
have
nut
which
in
looper
needle
stud
for
looper
inch
Turn
clearance,viewing
inch(.635
machines
the
paragraph,
become
(A,
head
with
machines
at
(2.38
using
Retighten
represent
looper
binder
the
and
deflecting,
link
to
140/054.Machines
setting
Fig.
avoid
at
respect
the
mm)
handwheel
set
mm)
are
to
necessary,
14) and
link
the
using
right
from
screw
the
looper
minimum 401
fitted
accommodate
for
unless
small,
bottom
to
end
centerline
gauge
needle
No.
(A,
Fig.
to
bring
looper
approximately
the
holder
with
the
sizes
otherwise
drain
rotate
medium
(C)
as
of
the
timing
of
its
21225-3/32.
12)
the
point
machine
binder
looper
an
adjustable
extreme
shipped
as
specified.
oil
eccentric
or
large
required.
its
stroke
mark
sizes:
stroke,
of
left
to
position
looper
to
touch
.001
from
screw.
clearance
needle
from
listed
from
stud
To
before
in
needle
Loosen
inch
the
the
under
the
looper
ensure
the
set
loop-
the
point
the
left
401
sizes
machine
(B)
looper
up
end
Check
under
factory
the
Should
to
avoid,
a
align-
075/029,
080/032,
110/044,
action
of
its
at
top
in
the
coming
the
rear,
until
looper
scarf
080/032,
090/036,
125/049,
Fig.
of
the
stroke,
of
needle
looper
off
the
resulting
passes
without
090/036---------100/040---------140/054----------
13
needle
the
point
rear
the
with
looper
scarf
entering
guard,
in
looper.
point
place
relation
will
without
the
close
On
glancing
Tighten
bottom
While
approach
striking.
the
scarf.
needle
relation
the
off
"S"
"M"
"L"
hand
to
will
of
down
nut
(A)
cover
turning
the
looper.
the
needle
Further
Furthermore,
resume
the
needle
stroke,
the
guarding
to
and
the
24-25
fill
machine
As
from
rising
its
surface
in.
machine
needle
right
since
normal
and
looper,
needle
lbs.
through
rises
of
the
the
position
should
of
Fig.
14
(28-29
to
proper
cycle,observe
from
side
and
needle
needle
or
actual
pass
the
looper.
cm/kg).
oil
the
pass
will
point
by
moving
contact,
behind
Re-
level.
the
bottom
behind
result
is
to
the
Insert
rear
needle
SETTING
guard
401
into
STITCH
the
hole
REAR
in
15
NEEDLE
the
throat
GUARD
plate
support
bracket.
SETTING
401
STITCH
REAR
NEEDLE
GUARD
(Continued)
When
pinch
but
not
needle
(E,
.102
to
401
Fig.
nun)
5.56
With
not
pinch
looper
9)
clearance.
nnn)
thread
needle
deflect
thread
guard.
direction,
check
pinched.
be
and
Thread
feed
er
action
whether
Lock
For
convenience,
thread
as
ed
described
401
dog,
throat
and reset upper
with
SETTING
point
so
it
below
in
needle
at
needle,
in
Turn
making
needle
with
as
shown
under
Looper".
plate,
thread.
is
at
the
center
touches
This
throat
bottom
needle
handwhe
but
guard
plate
eye.
SETTING
position,
.000
eye.
el
does
setting
seat.
Then
401
STITCH
to
.004
Check
in
operating
not
lock
complete revolutions
is
screw
the
in
Replace
knife.
THE
disturbed
(H).
loop
(Fi
g. 2
parapraph
lower
Check
FEED
DOGS
er
differential
may
or
"To
knife
cutting
or
2A)
of
deflect
will
With
the guard
FRONT
set
front
inch
for cle
to
now
hold-
the
needle
needle,
be
approximately
needle
NEEDLE
401
(.000
to
arance
in
in
place
needle
.102
between
scarf,set
.000
down
position,
with
GUARD
guard
nnn)
401
to
.004
3/16
to
set
(G,
clearance
401
looper
rear
needle guard
inch
7/32
(.000
inch
guard should
screw
Fig.
(F).
9)
to
. Guard s
and
front
to
(4.76
not
touch
hould
401
Assemble
dogs
Feed do
adjust
should
locks
travel.
the
throat
main
(A, B,
i ng
be
the fee
Fig.
gs
should
pin
(C).
l evel at
d t i
Main and diffe
plat
e.
and
15).
be
This
the
lting
differential
level with the
pin
rais
time tee
t h
adjusting pin
r ential fee
d dog
placing
(A, Fi g. 16) so
sleeve
(C), a free lateral
holder asse
pr
ess
set
Adjus
which holds the lower
pressed
ment
tightening
port
pin
be
locked
ed
against
feed
throat pla
es
or
lower s the
first
in
appe
plac
teeth should
Replace th
the
low
(B) seats against
mbly i s
ed
at
its
with
cuttin
te
surface
back
end
ar
e .
above
Now
set
the
feed
be set
SE
TTING
e lower
er
knife
Tl-
IE
LOWER
knife hold
hold
that when the face
thro
upper
g ed
motion
obtain
corner.
ge
of the
ed when the
flu
sh
Fig.
by
of
feed
throat
dogs
3/64
er
er
asse
at plat e
Low
er
with
rotating feed tilting
plat
at highest
inch
KNI
assem
mbly, tighten screw
of the
low
knife (D)
top
tments are made with hexagonal head
knif
e .
Low
er
against
is
necessary
Lower
bracket.
for the
knife
screw
with
cloth
lower
the
upper
when
may
be
(F) and
Be
cause
plate
nut
(G) even when
knife
knife,
the
width
secur
ed
locking nut
scr
ew (F)
latch
sprin
holder.
so
of
in
any
also serv
g,
scr
15
bar. Feed dogs
e .
Scr
ew (D)
point
(1.19
FE
bly.
flan
nun
)
In
ge
mounting brack
er
knif
e and
knif
e i s
manually
shou
of
knif
no
lateral
trim
position
(G)
it
ew
is
throat
scr
e i s s
is chang
again
should
not tighte
,ew (E)
es
as
plat
prin
adjust-
ed.
by
st s
latch
always
of
above
r eon
et
ld
be
e .
g
up-
n-
Fig.
16
16
SETTING
THE
UPPER
KNIFE
Replace
setting
most
knife.
cutting
not
less
cutting
guard
upper
cutting
proper
should
holding
I
simplify
replaced
feed
the
nut
(J)
clockwise
At
the
edge
than
edge
(L)
should
knife
and
edge.
After
upper
width
be
tightened
block
resetting
.
The
stitch
eccentrics
upper
to
position
bottom
of
upper
1/64
of
lower
be
slightly
knife
of
trim,
(F)
length
used
hold
inch
in
when
knife
of
knife
knife.
set
has
screw
to
lock
place.
is
and
assembly.
clamp
(K)
against
its
stroke,
should
(.40
mm)
The
down
back
against
from
been
(E,
upper
This
upper
knife
determined
the
other
main
in
its
upper
front
extend
below
chain
the
the
set
for
Fig.
15)
knife
will
is
SETTING
by two
the
The
differential
feed.
Clamp
THE
STITCH
setting
upper
factors
of
knife
LENGTH
in
combination;
the
differential
feed
control
(H,
Fig.
Fig.
is
16)
in
position,
17
one
is
the
feed
control.
independent
main
of
the
length
Style
trol;
limit
Turn
desired
39800
a
stop scr
the
Fig.
the
AT
trav
18
stitch
and
is
ew
el of
SETTING
regulating
tighten
also
is
provided
equipped
differential
The hand
adjusting
The
dicator
stitch
the
shortest
fore,
moving
control
lengthens
After
feed,
set,
is
and
turn
obtained.
length
that
there
and
the
THE
DIFFERENTIAL
screw
lockscrew
with a knee
in
the
feed
the
uppermost
plate
length),
down
the
selecting
the
the
check
is
main
(A,
(B)
stitch
dog
operated
knurled
differential
letter
indicates
while
feed
the
travel
indicator
shortens
the
the
(shortest
the
stitch.
the
proper
main
and
differential
differential
As a precaution,
the
travel
clearance
and
differential
FEED
Fig.
to
lock
press
of
between
CONTROL
17)
as
differential
intermittent
indicator
to
avoid
striking
knob marked "DIFF" i s
stitch
length.
"L" marked
longest
lowermost
pointer
stitch
length
eccentrics
knob
until
after
both
feed
the
feed
required
feed
plate
which
ends
on
the
feed
letter
stitch
of
the
and
feed
the desired
sett
dogs
throat
dog
s.
to
obtain
control
differ e
can be
of
throqt plat e s
stitch
travel
"S"
in-
(longest
indicates
length).Theredifferential
upward
for
the
main
dogs
have been
seam
i ng
the
stitch
to
make sure
plate
slots
stitch
in
plac
ntial feed con
adjusted
for
·
e .
lot
-
to
s .
bling
the
The
feed
shaft
out
er (le
eccentrics,
or key.
ft)
eccentrics
be sure
REMOVING
(A,
hubs
Fig.
are
THE
ECCENTRICS
18)
facing
actuate
each
other.
17
main (re
Be
ar) feed dog .
careful
not
In asse
to
dama
m-
ge
To
end
plate
support
401
looper
guide
looper
tion
until
tor
supplied
be
necessary
If
take-up
(G)
and
change
(D);remove
plate
at
(H)
with
thread
key
eccentrics
(D,
Fig.
feed
REMOVING
feed
eccentrics,
screws
(F)
accessible
extreme
cast-off
take-up
slot
with
to
move handwheel
driving
right,
(D)
in
eccentric
machine,
are
unusually
18) from
connection
(E) and
with
permitting
support
from end
reach
shaft
THE
ECCENTRICS
remove
screw
chip
plate
of
is
toward
behind
back
and
tight
(E),
(H).
screws
chute
removal
(F)
shaft
eccentrics
forth
fitting,
it
may
Then
(Continued)
(C,
Fig.
securing
(G)
open;
of
assembled.
(E).
the
be
continue
Turn
front.
slightly
in
helpful
17)
the
extreme
turning
the
left
Remove
handwheel
Using
and
withdraw
during
addition
to
as
originally
securing
right
handwheel
main
nut
hooked
extraction.
to
removing
remove
cast-off
end
feed
in
eccentrics.
nut
thrust
(C,
Fig.
operating
eccentric
nut
(F),
suggested.
support
of
cas~-of
to
position
bar
18) and
extrac
It
(C) and
ferrule
f
direc-
-
may
NOTE:
Thread
(B) and clamp
right
and
the
presser
Control
as
required.
The
foot
the
collar
presser
foot
Before
screw
lifter
arm
release
tightening
Adjustments".
Fig.
Retighten
(B)
secure
does
19
(C) and
lever
the
not
bind
lever
nut
then
collar
arm (D,
shaft.
and
is
unlocked.
(C,
shift
screws
Fig.
rise
Fig.
Be
the
19)
sure
when
18)
refer
SETTING
Assemble
arm.
presser
The
foot
needle
portant
foot
necessary,
with
foot
move
foot
and clamp
the
presser
(front
front
lifter
With
and
must
hole
lies
throat
lifter
the
to
needle
arm
back)and
edge
be
that
flat
presser
shaft,
lever
screw.
paragraph
THE
PRESSER
the
presser
in
into
sewing
foot
to
of
needle
aligned
in
throat
the
bottom
on
the
foot
plate
lever
slots
shaft
loosen
shaft
under
high
align
flat
with
plate.
throat
screws
to
"401
FOOT
foot
position,
position
needle
on
throat
hole
front
of
the
plate.
can
be
by
shifting
(A,
Fig.
the
Looper
to
presser
swing
and
set
holes
plate.
in'presser
edge
of
It
is
im-
presser
If
realigned
the
19).
To
in
collar
left
or
Adjust
19)
so
higher
permit;then
from
motion
presser
should
with
fabric
chip
assembly
1/16
of
be
nut
guard
guard,
that
than
to
foot
foot
made
(H).
reaches
lifter
presser
upper
lock
1/8
begins
and
turn
looper
the
inch
lifter
with
Re-assemble
cloth
handwheel
its
lever
foot
nut
(1.59
lever
to
screw
highest
stop
can
or
(F).There
rise.
(G)
the
plate.
until
screw
be
spreader
to
3.18
before the
This
and
chip
To
position.
(E,
raised
should
nnn)
adjustment
locked
guard,
assemble
upper
Fig.
no
will
be
free
knife
18
Fi
g. 20
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