Union Special 39600A, 39600P User Manual
®
INDUSTRIAL
SEWING
FINEST QUALIT
Y
STYLES
39600A
39600P
LEWIS
•
COLUMBIA
MACHINES
CLASS
39600
STREAMLINED
CATALOG
No.
HIGH
FOUR
127M
SECOND
SAFETY
EDITION
STITCH
CHICAGO
SPEED
THREAD
MACHINES
MACHINE
COMPANY
Catalog
INSTRUCTIONS
ADJUSTING
No.
FOR
AND
127
OPERATING
M
Four
Rights
Thread
39600
Union
LIST
CLASS
Safety-Stitch
A
Second
Copyright
Special
Reserved
OF
39600
STYLES
Edition
by
Machine
in
PARTS
39600
1964
All
Machines
p
Co.
Countries
MACHINE
INDUSTRIAL
CHICAGO
Printed
COMPANY
SEWING
in
MACHINES
U .
S.A.
January,
1971
IDENTIFICATION
OF
MACHINES
Each Union
into the
Special.
contain
the
is
suffixed
which
by a gauge
width
the
5-1/8
and
right
herein.
this
from
handwheel
name plate on
the
letter
Styles
differs
The
distance
of
overedge
width
gauge
the
right
of
the
This
It
class.
the
Standard
letter
"Z".
to
the
of
machines
from
number
of
overedge
represents
needle
right
catalog
can
also
Reference
operator's
is
away
Spe
cial
StjYle
"Z'.
When
Standard
between
is
hand
applies
only
the
style
measured
represented
represent
(503
needle.
be
applied
to
position
from
machine
the
machine.
numbers
Example:
minor
Style
similar
the
a
distance
stitch)
APPLICATION
specifically
direction,
operator.
number.
in
number
rows
in
1/
by a fraction.
and
with
while
the
is
identified
Style
have
"Style
changes
of
64ths
discretion
such
seated
one
39600
Example:
construction
in
that
stitches
of
machine
of
5/64
the
1/8
OF
to
the
as
by a Style
numbers are
or
more
A".
are
made
"Style
are
it
contains
or
between
an
inch,
Collectively,
gauge.
inch
between
represents
CATALOG
Standard
to
some
right,
at
the
left,
machine.
number
classifi
letters
Special
in a standard
grouped
no
letters.
the
going
Example:
the
the
Styles
Special
front,
suffixed,
Style
39600
under a class
needles
from
the
left
width
of
Styles
back,
Operating
which
ed
as Sta
numbers
machine,
AZ".
Example:
is
represented
left
to
gauge
needle
of
machines
"5-1/
overed
of
etc.,
number
machines
direction
is
stamped
ndard
but
contain
number
"39600".
right.
8".
(401
ge
as
are
and
never
a
"Z"
Th
and
Thus,
stitch)
to
the
listed
in
given
of
e
Two
Thread,
edge
ming
39600
39600
filled
straight
should
sight
gauge
Curved
Stitch
Mechanism
on
cases
fication,
stitch
slacks,
pads
CAUTION!
Machine
Dual
A
Light
sport
P
Same
and
before
mineral
be
used.
gauge
lines
Needles,
Stitch,
on
Right
with
to
medium
shirts,
and
similar
401-503-SSa-2;
range,
jackets,
similar
is
on
when
8
as
Style
Oil
was
beginning
oil
of a Saybolt
This
filled
front
machine
STYLES
Left
401
Rear
Spring
ladies'
operations
to
sport
garments.
is
with
of
Needle
Double
Needle,
Pressed
duty
blouses,
standard
16
per
39600 A except
shirts,
drained
to
operate.
equivalent
oil
at
the
machine.
is
stationary.
OF
in
Locked
Differential
Lower
machine
street
on
light
gauge
inch;
cam
street
OILING
from
viscosity
spring cap
Oil
to
machine
Union
Red
MACHINES
Front,
Stitch
for
to
medium
and
capacity
Two
on
Knife,
simultaneously
and hou
medium
and
adjusted
house
when shipped,
of
90
Special
in
top
tip
of
Loopers,
Left
Feed,
Needle,
Low
Automatic
se
dresses,
weight
seam
to
oil
widths
main
to
heavy
dresses,
of
Class
125
seconds at
Specification
cover.
indicator
One
503
and
seaming
materials.
are
and
differential
duty, for
coat
so
39600
Oil
level
should
Spreader,
Two
Thread
High
Lubricating
coat
Throw,
and
linings,
5-1/8
linings,
reservo
is
six
100°
No.
174.
is
checked
Se
and
feeds.
operations
Fahrenheit
show
Four
Over-
Trim-
System.
overedging
pillow
am
speci-
12-3/16;
on
shoulder
ir
must
ounces.
between
be
A
at the
Machine
main
It
may
reservoir
The
is a magnetic
have
drain
entered
is
automatically
filled.
plug
screw
screw
the
Check
is
locat
designed
crank
lubric
oil
daily
ed
ca
se.
at e
d.
before
at
the
to
accumulate
It
should
No
back
3
oiling is
the
morning
of
machine
possible
be
removed
necessary,
start;
near
foreign
and
other
add
oil
bottom
materials
cleaned
than
keepin
as
required.
edge
periodically.
of
which
base.
g
NEEDLES
Each
denotes
number,
in
thousandths
size
number
packaged
Two
needle
shank,
for the
round
spotted,
036,
040,
The
a
round
double
and
groove,
is
available in
To
sample
on
needle,
label.
Selection
should
pass
Success
of
needles
reputation
more
than
Union
the
stamp
kind
ed
Spe
of
of
r e
present
and
sold
needl
es
overedge
point,
chromium
044,
longer
shank,
049,
needle
round
milled
have
needle
or
A
complete
of
proper
freely
in
the
packaged
for
producing
three-quarters
cial
shank,
on
the
an
inch,
the
by
Union
having
curved
plated
054.
for
point,
groove,
sizes
orders
the
type
order
through
operation
under
needle
has
point,
needle
shank,
midway
complete
Special.
different
stitch,
located
blade,
needle
the
401
curved
long
029,
032, 036, 040, 044.
promptly
and
size
would
needle
size
needle
of
Union
our
brand
highest
of a century.
both a type
length,
denotes
between
symbol
lengths
at
standard
and
is
available
stitch,
blade,
spot,
and
number
read:
is
determined
eye
in
Special
name,
quality
and
groove,
finish
largest
shank
which
are
the
is
used
right,
length,
in
located
flat
at
tapered
government
accurately
should
"1000
order
needles,
to
machines
~
needles
in
size
number.
and
other
and
given
in
is
single
sizes
the
diameter
eye.
on
this
Type
022,
left,
of
Collectively,
the
label
machine.
154
GAS.
groove,
025,
is
Type
blade,
point,
be
by
size
chromium
filled,
an
forwarded.
Type
of
thread
154
produce a good
can
be
secured
..
which
materials
and
The
type
details.
blade,
The
measured
type
of
all
The
It
is a round
struck
027,
Class
158
"B"
029,
GJ.
plated
empty
GAS,
Use
description
package,
Siz
used.
stitch
formation.
only
is
backed
workmanship
number
size
and
needles
shorter
groove,
032,
It
is
length,
needle
e 032
11
Thread
by
use
by
for
a
•
a
Release
foot
release
out
of
from
just
operator)
exposed
cessible
When
is
the
replacing
at
the
full
Only
diagram
tions
for
Thread
tension
Then
thread
thread
It
as
designated
The
various
coded
lower
color
edge
code;
needle
pressure
bushing
position.
from
to
screwdriver.
left
depth
parts
(Fig.
clarity.
from
thread
guide
will
to
(G).
simplify
further
looper
thread
thread,
CHANGING
(A,
Turn
until
behind
needles
of
the
shank
to
the
involved
1 ).
Parts
the
guide
continues
the
by
the
eyelets
aid
thread,
No.
green
on
presser
Fig.
1)and
handwheel
needle
holding
presser
Loosen
observe
and
combination
THREADING
in
threading
are
thread
wire
stand
(D),
between
threading
numbers
and
guides
the
threading
yellow
color
3, 401
color
NEEDLES
foot
swinging
in
operating
screws
spring
screw
the
position
be
sure
eyelet
placed
(C)
down
tension
of
machine
assigned
on
the
process.
code;
needle
code.
by
turning
presser
direction
(A,
plunger
and
withdraw
of
the
needle
and
stop
are
shown
in
their
is
threaded
right
hand
discs (E),
to
to
each
machine for
Thus
thread
thread,
red
the
presser
arm
(away
Fig.
(B)
2)
and
needle.
the
flat
which
is
inserted
plate
in
threading
relative
hole
throu
and
posi-
gh
through slot
follow the r e
thread,
starting with
each threa
the sequenc
No.
2, 401
color
cod
(B)
are
ac-
(C).
each
up
e;
throu
Fig
pair
of
gh le
ft
(F),
and
commend
ed sequenc
thr
d have been
e is: thread
loop
er
thr
thread
No.
. 2
hol
es
hand
on
throu
ead No.
No.
ead,
4, ove
in the
hol
e.
gh
e
1.
colo
r
1,
blu
e
r-
4
PL
526
THREADING
Only
the
parts
Thread from stand (C) is thr
right
slot
assigned
e
l
401
the
Printed
(F),
It
ach
ower
needle
No oi
machine.
A s
hand
hole
on
each
have
thread,
thread,
Machine
U.S.
A.
and
throu
been col
necessary other than k
mineral
and
will simplify thr
to
thread
looper
ling is
traight
in
thread, starti
DIAGRAM AND
involved
up
through
gh
thread
eading the
or coded
ye
llow
red color
is f
ill
oil
of a Sa
in
threading
eaded
left
guide
machine
ng with
to further
color cod
cod
e; thread
ed with
ybolt
OILING
through
hand
(G).
thr ead
e; t
eeping
oil
at spri
viscosity
INSTRUCT
ar e s
hown
eac
hole.
to
hread
Then thre
follow the
No.
aid th e threadi
No. 2, 401
No.
4, overedg
the
ng cap
of
IONS
in the
1.
r ed bu
200
abov
e diagram.
h p
air
of
holes
ad
continues between t ensi
recommended seque
The various
ng
proces
looper
e nee
lb bet
ween
in
top
cove
to
250
FOR
dle
r .
second
CLASS 3
in te
nsion thread guide
ey e
lets and
s. Thus the seque
thread, blue
thr ead, green col
the
lin
s at
UNION SP
9600
nce
as designat
guid
color
es
of
the
100° Fahr
ECIAL
(503
STITCH)
wir
on discs
ed
by
es on the m
nce
is:
thr
cod
e; thread No.
or cod
oil gauge on
enheit should
Ch
e.
MACHINE
icago,
illinois
e (D), down
(E),
throu
gh
the
numbers
achi
ne
for
ead No. 1,
the
front
be used.
COMPANY
60610
3,
of
THREADING
(Continued)
Before
direction
presser
(B)
out
RAISE
LATCH
Be
tension
Double
looper
inside
guard
wheel
then
in
thread
entering
are
held
Double
thread
Return
latch
will
upper
stroke.
an
inch
into
left
DO
NOT
LOOP,
beginning
until
foot
of
position.
by
401
the
LOOPER
(K) AND
sure
discs
TO
thread
of
bracket
the
(E)
THREAD
end
of
eyelet
needle
(P)
operating
through
from
with
take-up
eyelet
knife
Insert
or
ey e, u
the
left
TO
end
to
snap
support
so
of
THREAD
of
eyelet
lower
into
double
thread.
sing about
THREAD
OTHERWISE
to
thread,
needles
turning
RAISING
threads,
and
in
diagonal
LOWER
lower
(M)
thread
and
through
direction
left
front.
hand.
401
401
looper
(J)
position
place.
block
end
LOOPER
MACHINE
swing
(H)
are
presser
THREAD
at
foot
TAKE-
cloth
their
release
UP
EYELET.
as
they
looper
from rig
cover
until
eye,
Left
LOOPER
from
Pass
(T),
of
Holding
come
slots
(F)
LOOPER
thread
ht
to
pull-off
eye
of
frame
heel
entering
eye
of
lower
(Thread
thread
left
by
pressing down.
(#2)
to rig
thread
and
over
thread
in rig
tweezers
from
(Thread
(#
left.
(N).
of
from
3/16 inch projection
WITH
NEEDL
WILL
NOT SEW!
plate
highest
EYELET
the
in
tension
1)
and
Lead
looper
lower
the
looper
and
ht,
when
under
hook
ht
eye
·n
left
E L
open, turn handwhe
position,
bu
shing
tension
No.
lead
NOTE:
loop
rear,
can
No.
lead
(A),
and swing presser arm
(J)
BY
thread
posts
1 -
Yellow
it
throu
(L
Thread
thread
back
thread
guid
r (S) i s
and then
be
threaded
2-Blue Color Cod
it
throu
the eyelet
When
knife
(U).
of
hand
of
OOP
eyelet
arm,
Bring needl
401
loop
er (V)
insert
thread
from
AROUND
into the g
el
in
oper a
release pressure
RELEASI
guide,
NG EYEL ET
are betw
).
Color Cod
gh
both
mu
st
e )
eyes of
pass
under hook
e (R). Turn hand-
all
the
way
to the lef
throu
eas
gh r ight ye,
ily
if twee
e )
gh
both
is
is
ey es
in rais
in
correct
ed
of
positio
roove
e a
rm
to
bottom
and
push
doubl
ed e
point
LOOPER.
nd
of threa
of twe
REMOVE
tin
g
on
een
low
er
throu
gh
of fabric
t;
zer s
loop
er
n.
positio
n
of the
of
throu
gh
d
ezer
s.
Lower
Thr adi
through
the
needle
back
eye
needl
to
of
e (H)
Tu
Pass
throu
gh
Th
nurl
k
se
ed t ens
cur
e pr ope r
TO
THREAD
ne
edle
ng
from
both
left
eyes
thread
the left
needle.
from
to
Raisin
front.
TO THREAD
r n h
andwheel in
ov
er edge nee
hole
in
top
e a
mount
ion
of
nuts
stit
401
NEEDLE
arm
to
bottom
to rig
ht,
of needle
cam
pull-off
the
top eye
g ne
edle
OVEREDGE
operatin
dle
thread
of stroke, turning
pass the doubled e
thread
(N), then
of needle arm eyelet (Y)
by
NEEDLE (Th
g d
(#
4)
cover needle threa
TH
tension
(AA,
ch
formation.
on the need
Fig. 1 ). T
Usin
(Thread No.
pull-o
rotatin
ire
ction until
und
d eyelet
READ
ension
g a post
ff
eye
throu
g ha
ndwhe
read No. 4-
er ove
TENSION
le and
on
6
3-
Red
handwheel
nd
of
let
(W),
gh n
eedle thread
passing over the
into
el i n
operatin
the needle
rhanging arm
(Z).
loop
Thread needle (H)
er thr
the threads
al
scal
e,
the
Color Code)
in ope
ratin
g dir e
ction.
the 401 needle thread (#
outside
frame eyelet
lower
Green
is
at its
of
eads
should
eye
g di
rection,
Color Cod
hig
top
cov
is reg
be
measurement
and
hest pos
er a nd down
ulat
only
(X)
finally
thread
e)
ition.
from
ed
front.
by
enough to
s a r e t
and
the
aken
3)
of
to
THREAD
TENSION
(Continued)
with
the
As a start
401
Overedge
401
Lower
Further
adjusting
needles
the
needle
at
tensions
thread;
needle
looper
thread;
looper
refinement
instructions.
the
top
of
may
be
3
112
thread;
1
112
thread; 4 to
in
tension
their stroke
as
follows:
oz.
straight
1
to
1 1 I 2
to 2 oz.
4 1 I 2
oz.
adjustment
Sufficient
be
maintained.
decrease
lock
nut
Adjusting
increases
When
set,
on
under
from
cap
pressure
tighten
the
the
(D) ag
throat
surface
and
out
oz.
straight
straight
PRESSER
pressure
amount
(A,
Fig.
screw
the
pressure,
lock
plate,
is
top
surface
ainst
pulled
of
lower
straight
out
out
is
out
of
looper
of
frame
discussed
FOOT
to
Should
of
3)
it
pressure
and
has a right
loosening
adjusting
nut
(A).
position
approximately
of
the
locking
in
the
direction
eye
of
of
thread
thread
looper
at
PRESSURE
feed
work
be
necessary
on
turn
the
hand
screw
With
locking
adjusting
nut
(C).
needle
guide
the
conclusion
presser
adjusting
thread
decreases
(B)
has
presser
nut
1132
screw
as indicated.
arm
eyelet
(G).
eyelet
thread
(U).
guide
uniformly
to
increase
foot,
screw
so
tightening
pressure.
been
foot
(C)
so
inch
to
1116
(B).
(Y).
(R).
of
the
should
loosen
(B).
properly
resting
that
its
inch
Set
the
or
Fig.
It
will
be
noted
eccentric
mately
wise
is
the
number
specified,
No.
Generally
number
relation
of
operation.
4. 5, 6,
36,
may
The
40.
be
of
stitches
to
the deg
following
1.
a. 9,
Only
two
ordered
numb r suffixed
It
is
suggested
sewing
and
parts.
lower
knife
3
that
the
part
39540
of
stitches
B-12.
machine
speaking,
produced;
ree
and
stitch
10.
11.
eccentrics
separately.
to
indicate
ASSEMBLING
that
the
remove
hold
cloth
er
assembly.
selected
number
Minor
obtainable
will
be
differential
the
direction
number
12. 13,
are
To
number
AND
follow
plate,
Feed
to
of
numbers
shipped
main
of
feed
14,
supplied
order
an
of sti
ADJUSTING
ing sequ
fabric
FEED
eccentrics
produce
both
the
when
with
(right
above
hand)
(left
stretch
eccentrics
15, 16.
with
each
eccentric,
tches
ence
guar
d,
ECCENTRICS
used
in
approximately
main
of
using
the
feed
part
that
eccentrics.
feed
hand)
of
1a.
feed eccentr
material
are
available
20.
22. 24.
machine.
use No.
desired.
SEWING
be
follow
ed.
chip guard,
this
m a
chi
ne
12
stitches
and
the
differential
symbol
eccentric.
eccentric
bein
indicate
ic
g
sewn,
Unless
determin
is
selected
or the
und r No.
26,
28,
30,
Additional
eccentrics
39540 B with a minor
Example: 1139540
PARTS
Before
upper
assem
knife assem
have been
per inch.
feed
approxi-
other-
es
the
in
type
39540
B:
32, 34.
B-12".
bling the
bly
7
SETTING
THE
NEEDLES
Release
position.
Type
154
holes,
that
the
position
With
center
loosen
the
left
used
this
gauge
until
to
gauge
in
needle
contact
been
obtained
Remove
If
gauge
by
measuring
throat
the
pressure
Insert
GAS
both
for
respectively,
butt
ends
with
clamp
throat
in
the
clamp
or
set
the
plate
throat
screw
right
needle
remove
its
place.
driving
the
throat
and
throat
plate.
No.
21227
17/32
plate,
when
needles
the
of
contact
screws
assembled
plate
(B,
as
required.
driving
the
Be
arm
plate.
needles
inch
needle
on
presser
(Type
overedge
the
needle
the
(A,
needle
Fig.
left
needle
sure
is
gauge
at
Tighten
have
CR
is
not
from
driving
stop
Fig.
in
4)
and
Gauge
arm
its
lowest
available
the
arm
158
GJ
stitch)
driving
plate.
2 ).
position,
holes.
move
No.
at
the
(401
seats
clamp
been
401
arm
SETTING
and
for
the
into
the
arm
Secure
the
To
align
needle
21227
correct
stitch)
against
position,
screw
centered
the
needle
is
at
503
swing
401
left
(A,
needles
needles
the
driving
CR
height.
and
the
at
(B,
in
correct
point
its
highest
STITCH
arm
stitch
and
Fig.
should
insert
stop
this
Fig.
the
needle
(left
out
and
right
4),
so
in
this
should
needles,
arm
to
be
To
use
the
plate.
point
4)
after
throat
height
needle)
point
LOWER
of
the
plate
Turn
gauge
correct
to
of
travel
LOOPER
the
needle
can
the
Fig.
4
handwheel
should
height
holes.
be
obtained
top
of
(Fig.
just
has
the
4).
Set
with
either
position
set
rear
guard
and
Now
point
from
should
the
obtained
1/8
inch
Fig.
the
rear
the
to
deflect
needle
lower
finish
be
rear
by
rocking the
looper
5
SETTING
needle
lower
the
guard.
looper.
FINAL
low
er
set
into
needle
gauge
bar
looper
using
looper
because
scarf
and
Lower
503
guard
looper
needle
Make
SETTING
looper
the
needle
guard
looper
setting
Insert
(B).
point
looper
deflecting
the
after
positioned.
Looper.
STITCH
(A,
Fig.
or
movement
forward
sure
OF
there
503
adjustment.
scarf
surface
forward
and
tighten
the
503
stitch
With
lower
1/8
gauge
looper
inch
No.
needle.
looper
the
rear
(See
point
needle
paragraph
)
REAR
6)
• 002
STITCH
(A,
NEEDLE
as
high
of
the
to . 004
is
no
As
lower
Fig.
interference
LOWER
7)
another • 002
or
backward
nut
(C,
Fig.
lower
at
from
center
21225-1/8.
Do
will
have
guard
GUARD
as
possible
lower
knife
inch.
LOOPER
looper
until
the
to • 004
around
5).
looper
left
not
to
has
under
Screw
between
moves
needle
inch.
its
(A,
end
of
of
Do
lock
be
set
been
"Final
without
holder,
springs
shank.
Fig.
its
needle
not
have
looper
to
assembled
interfering
but
(B)
is
rear
to
the
This
Recheck
5)
stroke
(Fig.
lower
nut
the
needle
Setting
still
used
needle
rig
ht its
forward
setting
into
set
5)
(C)
of
in
to
is
the
Assemble
needle
touchin
make
off
g.
sure
back
Screw
there
SETTING
front
guard,
(D)
is
no
needle
is
interference
set
used
503
guard
front
to
STITCH
(C,
needle
adjust
between
FRONT
Fig.
guard
and
8
set
needle
NEEDLE
6).
as
close
front
When
needle
guards
GUARD
lower
as
possible
guard.
and
looper
to
is
needle
After
differential
springin
without
this settin
feed
dog.
g
g
SETTING
503
STITCH
SPREADER
rubs
and
same
ance
Fig.
Now
check
the
back
rotate
the
adjustments,
between
6
setting
of
spreader,
spreader
in
spreader
holds
be
(C)
allows
end
the
of
inch
with
and
its
extends
between
pull
holder
opposite
and
needle.
Insert
the
pushed
on
Preliminary
of
its
spreader
the
above
Set
spreader
spreader
in
the
collar
the
holder
stroke,
shank
spreader
holder
spreader
or
out,
shank
holds
Setting:
spreader
(Fig.
to
approximately • 002
lower
Next,
travel:
spreader
looper
turn
check
about
spreader
(Fig.
handwheel
the
5/32
inch
and
out
of
forward a short
movement,
Reset
will
to
lower
(A,
in
its
or
spreader
to
be
about
should
8).
pass
9 ).
setting
to
needle.
its
holder
distance.
reduce
looper
Fig.
holder
turned
rotated
When
holder
vertical
just
inch
until
the
If
the
8)
in
its
and
around
holder
or
spreader
should
(Fig.
extend
behind
eye
clearance
spreader
so
lower
left
of
needle
needle
slightly
These
clear-
(Fig.
9 ).
holder.
permits
its
in
adjusted
is
be
8).
Screw
spreader
shank.
the
shaft,
laterally.
at
set
to
The
the
approximately
of
lower
between
is
point
at
of
spreader
left
spreader
(Fig.
(B)
to
Screw
and
right
position
top
end
5/64
looper,
end
of
10).
Insert
support
1/4
inch
until
its
surface.
forward
with
set
Insert
the
shank
looper
of
clamp
SETTING
rear
bracket.
below
point
Then
from
screw
401
strikes
clamp
screw
needle
Set
the
is
1/64
bring
• 003
(B.
stitch
screw
against
401
STITCH
height
throat
inch
the
to • 005
Fig.
looper
the
looper
while
flat
REAR
guard
plate
of
into
guard
seat.
below
guard
forward
inch.
11).
SETTING
into
shaft.
working
on
shank.
With
inch
from
21225-3/64.
7/64
inch
Looking
lie
in
the
(Fig.
13
).
NEEDLE
the
hole
(A,
Bring
the
high
Then
401
STITCH
looper
Looper
looper
looper
center
Loosen
hexagonal
at
scarf
Fig.
the
point
to
lock
holder
point
at
of
left
of
GUARD
in
the
11 )
401
of
deflect
the
LOOPER
and
will
to
right
needle
looper
allen
end
the
throat
plate
approximately
needle
the
the
guard
press
be
at
and
end
(Fig.
fro
of
down
guarding
needle
in
place
down
correct
to
its
12)using
holder
key
to
position
of
machine,
needle
within
until
height.
secure
stroke,
binder
set
••
002
the
accurate
set
looper
the
the
looper
inch
Fig.
butt
Tighten
looper
gauge
screw
looper.
clearance
7
end
the
seating
3/64
No.
with
point
of
a
to
Fig.
8
action
rises
the
needle
While
of
the
from
hand
turn
needl
bottom
from rig
9
ing
e wi
th
of
ht side
machine
relation
its
stroke
and
through
to
the
pass
cycle
the
looper.
looper
behind
will
at
observe
As nee
approach
top
of needl
the
dle
e
SETTING
401
STITCH
LOOPER
(Continued)
scarf
result
since
needle
rear,
or
actual
stroke
point
Set
when
side
of
there
bottom
tion,
the
feed
Main
without
in
the
the
needle
will
resulting
contact,
the
needle
glancing
front
looper
needle.
is
from
of
looper
making
Fig.
10
tilting
and
differential
striking.
looper
point
resume
in a close
should
off
the
needle
point
is
Also,
1/64
blade.
complete
adjusting
Further
point
entering
is
its
normal
relation
until
scarf
pass
guarding
guard
as
behind
front
to
1/32
Turn
revolutions
For
Fig. 1 and
Replace
and
reset
Assemble
Feed
rotating
the
back
time
teeth
pin
feed
dog
rising
the
coming
off
position
of
passes
behind
surface
close
the
needle
inch
as
needle
guard
clearance
handwheel
to
convenience
as
described
differential
upper
knife.
main
dogs
feed
end
in
tilting
of
first
place.
teeth
should
feed
appear
should
of
the
needle
scarf.
the
the
looper.
the
of
possible
and
Furthermore,
rear
by
moving
needle
looper
the
looper.
to
flush
and
On
without
with
should
between
in
operating
check
the
whether
looper
under
feed
dog,
Check
SETTING
THE
and differential
be
leveled
adjusting
bar.
Feed
above
Now
set
feed
be
set
will
guard
to
looper,
the
down
the
needle
the
left
be
set
it
and
direc-
needle
may
now
paragraph
throat
cutting
FEED
with
pin
(D).
dogs
the
throat
dogs
3/64
inch
the
the
the
so
is
be
"To
plate,
action
DOGS
feed
the
This
should
plate.
at
disturbed
threaded
Thread
lower
with
dogs
throat
pin
be
highest
above
Fi
thread.
(A,
plate
raises
set
Screw
point
the thr
g. 9
or
as
401 L
knife
B,
surface
or
level
(E)
of tra
oat
pinched.
shown
ooper".
hold
Fi
g.
14).
lowers
at
the
locks
vel.
plate.
in
er
by
SETTING
Re
place
lower
so
knife
that
against
motion
of
when the
Lower
with
knif
throat
when
throat plat e
low
holder asse m
the
the
low
knife is man
e (D) s
plate surf
hexagonal head
Low
er k
nif
e i s spr i
so
no
lateral
Low
er
knife may
knife hold
er shaf
Set the de
Fig.
12
er
knife hol
THE
LOWER
der assembly.
bly, tight
face
of
the fla
mounting brack
er k
nif
scr
e and
ually pre
hould
ace.
ew
(E ) w
be
hold
set
Ad
hich
sse
jus
ng pressed against
adj
ust
ment is necessary
be s e
cur
ed
t.
sir
ed
width
ed
ge
of
hold
er shaft with
low
of
er
trim
kni
SETTING
R
ni
fe
k
to
(H)
bottom
nif
e s
k
eplace upp
(G,
Fi
hold
clamp
of its
hould extend
er
g. 15) in posi
stroke, front
cutting edge of the
KNIFE
In rep
en
nge
screw
on
sleeve
(A, Fig.
(B)
et (C) a free
er as
d at
with
tments
holds
sembly
its
cuttin
the
the
is
upp
er
g edge
ar
e made
low
upp
when the
in any pos
by
measuring from
fe
to needle.
scr
ew (F ).
THE
knif
e assembly.
(J)
against the upper kn
ition
UPPER
tion, s
ettin
cutt
not less than
low
er k
nif
e.
lacing
15)
seats
lateral
obtained
corner.
flush
with
er
knife.
er
knife,
width
by
tightening scr
Lock low
KNIFE
Clamp
g allen
ing edge
1/64 in
-r--t-
___
of
trim
the rig
er
kni
ht
fe
upper
scre
w
ife .
of
upp
At
er
ch below
,_--
( I
1
I I
~-.,
r--,--.J
.""A
~B
Fi
g. 11
i s changed.
ew
(F)
agai
Fig
. 13
nst the
10
SETTING
THE
UPPER
KNIFE
(Continued)
After
proper
be
tightened
block
the
The
actuates
the
the
sure
nut
Turn
Using
as
and
(L)
SETTING
Length
combination
outer
inner
differential
In
hubs
(C)
To
handwheel
hooked
shown
forth
upper
width
assembling
securely.
change
of
to
in
place.
THE
of
(left)
the
main
(right)
are
and
withdraw
slightly
lock
stitch
facing
feed
eccentric
knife
trim,
upper
STITCH
is
of
feed
eccentric
(rear)
eccentric
(front)
feed
each
Be
sure
eccentrics,
in
operating
during
has
been
screw
eccentrics
feed
extractor
eccentrics.
(K)
knife
LENGTH
determined
(A,
feed
dog,
(B)
dog.
eccentrics,
other.
wool
extraction.
set
for
should
holding
by
used.
Fig.
actuates
yarn
direction
to
helpful
(H).
16)
while
be
Be
in
remove
(E),
It
If
eccentrics
removing
Then
careful
oil
tube
nut
until
supplied
may
nut
to
remove
continue
not
to
(F)touches
and
washer
key
slot
with
machine,
be
necessary
are
unusually
(C,
Fig.
nut
as
Fig.
damage
feed
(C)
in
eccentric
17)
(G)
and
originally
shaft
eccentric
from
reach
to
move
tight
from
feed
14
or
key.
end
is
toward
behind
handwheel
fitting,
shaft
driving
suggested.
Tighten
connections.
of
shaft
eccentric
in
(D)
it
connection
(D).
front.
back
addition
may
be
The
sure
unlocked.
the
Fig.
foot
lifter
presser
15
lever
arm
arm
does
Assemble
needle
position
(front
edge
with
also
important
flat
on
loosen
backward
holes,
until
necessary,
plate
Fig.
(B,
Fig.
foot
lifter
Retighten
(A,
not
bind
in
and
of
needle
front
the
screw
or
foot
slots
19).
Fig.
and
SETTING
high
position,
and
set
back)
edge
throat
on
presser
move
is
flat
presser
by
To
19)
and
lever
collar
19)
and
rise
the
presser
tbe
and
hole
of
needle
that
plate.
(A,
Fig.
foot
on
throat
shifting
move
clamp
shaft
screws
the
when
THE
swing
presser
flat
in
presser
the
bottom
To
18)
arm
left
or
foot
can
the
the
shaft,
screw
to
the
and
collar
presser
PRESSER
foot
to
presser
presser
foot
to
on
throat
foot
hole
in
of
change
and
move
as
required
right
plate.
foot
be
realigned
lifter
loosen
(G)
left
clamp
(B)
secure
foot
around
Retighten
or
FOOT
arm
align
plate.
must
throat
the
presser
presser
foot
to
lever
collar
and
right
screw.
the
release
arm.
into
needle
The
be
plate.
foot
forward
align
presser
screw.
with
then
as
required.
shaft.
bushing
With
sewing
holes
front
aligned
It
foot
setting
needle
throat
shaft
screws
shift
is
be
or
arm
If
(H,
the
Be
is
than
to
This
the
Adjust
upper
1/8
adjustment
chip
inch
guard,
lifter
spreader
free
lever
motion
should
fabric
will
guard
stop
permit:
of
be
made
screw
foot
and
(C)
then
lifter
with
cloth
so
lock
lever
screw
plate.
11
that
the
before
(E)
presser
nut
(D).
the
and
locked
foot
can
There
presser
with
be
raised
should
foot
nut
(F).
no
be
from
begins
Reassemble
higher
1/16
to
rise.
503
STITCH
NEEDLE
THREAD
CONTROL
Fig.
Before
to
give a normal
change
affect
in
the
16
THREAD
proceeding,
appearing
these
tensions
purl.
While
as
follows:
down
just
stroke.
tight
tends
on
the
503
With
thread
the
thread
extreme
be
about
Frame
eyelet
let
of
left
end
TENSIONS
balance
stitch.
will
sewing
Usually
At
the
enough
to
pull
down
up
stroke.
STITCH
LOWER
material
eyelet
(M,
is a little
left
position.
horizontal.
looper
approximately
looper
both
of
its
tensions
(S)
at
travel.
Moderate
not
markedly
on
to
thread
the
feed
under
Fig.
slightly
material,
all
needle
top
of
chain
LOOPER
presser
1)
slack
Looper
guide
1/8
inch
time
check
needle
off
if
excessive
back
when
to
the
lower
needle
thread
stroke,
stitch
THREAD
foot,
and
the
thread
(R)
should
the
right
thread
is
drawn
thread
tongue.
thread
set
down
far
spreader
eyelet
be
of
looper
control
on
needl
should
The
stitch
is
pulled
CONTROL
lower
looper
enough
reaches
(M)
should
set
with
the
heel
is
at
extreme
e
be
so
its
its
eye-
SPECIAL
SKIPPING:
and/
or
adjust
1.
Recheck
See
2.
Recheck
3.
Check
ADJUSTMENTS
For
occasional
as
outlined
lower
"Setting
spreader
clearance
looper
the
between
Needle",
-
enough
be
loop
lowering
in
looper
looper
the
slightly
stitch
skipping,
check
below:
-
lower
left
needle
looper
needle
page
past
setting.
8.
crossing.
anq
the
needle.
spreader.
Settings 1 and 2 should
determined
skip,
it
thread
thread
by
appearance
reposition
slightly
pull-off
tension
and
as
stitch.
CAUTION!
slack
will
appear
As
as
spreader
stated
tight
STARTING
See
be
that
looper
bringing
(N).
much
before,
reaches
on
the
"Setting
See
made
skip
thread
eyelet
After
as
possible
top
side.
TO
OPERATE
that
quite
is
this
the
its
extreme
Fig.
The
17
Spreader",
spreader
carefully.
definitely
eyelet
holes
change,
without
looper
not a needle
(M,
in
close
increase
thread
left
position
page
moves
If
it
Fig.
to
1)
bend
distorting
must
9.
far
can
by
the
be
or
Be
Fi
g.
18
diagram
Wi
about
horizontal
sure
th
(Fig.
thread
the
machine
1,
page 5 ).
tensions lig
and
in
12
the
is
threaded
ht,
middle
set
of
according
looper
its
front
thread
to
back
to
threadin
eyel
g
et (M)
location.
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