Union Special 39500WE User Manual
INDUSTRIAL
SEWING
FINEST
STYLES
39500QA
39500QB
39500QP
39500QY
39500RA
39500RF
39500RM
39500RR
39500RS
QUALITY
®
C O L U M B I
A®
MACHINES
39500SE
39500SF
39500SG
39500TA
39500TD
39500TH
CATALOG
No.
103QA
MARK
SINGLE
TWO
CLASS
IV
OR
THREE
395
00
HIGH
NEEDLE
DIFFERENTIAL
OVERSEAMING
MACHINES
SPEED
THREAD
FEED
UNION SPECIAL
CHICAGO
CORPORATION
Catalog
No.
INSTRUCTIONS
FOR
103
QA
39500
39
39500
ADJUSTING
QA
500
QB
QP
39500
39500
QY
RA
LIST
CLASS
First
AND
OF
Styles
39500
39500
39500
39500
39500
OPERATING
PARTS
39
5 O O
RF
RM
RR
RS
SE
Edition
39500
39500
39500
39500
39500
TH
SF
SG
TA
TD
Rights
UN
ION
Union
Reserved
SPECIAL CORPORATION
INDUSTRIAL
Printed
Copyright©
By
Special
SEWING
CHICAGO
in
2
1973
Corporation
in
All
Countries
MACHINES
U.S.A.
April,
1980
IDENTIFICATION
OF
MACHINES
Each
on
the
machine.
Style
Example:
only
standard
which
39500
herein.
Class
given
of
MARK
Thread
Trimming
System,
numbers
minor
Styles
differs
".
This
39500.
from
handwheel
IV
UNION
"Style
changes
Style
of
machines
from
catalog
It
can
References
the
is
Hi-Styled
or
One
Mechanism
Improved
SPECIAL
Style
have
39500
number.
applies
also
operator's
away
Looper -One
one
the
be
High
Air
numbers
or
QA".
are
similar
Style
applied
to
from
Speed,
with
Cooling
machine
more
Spec:ial
made
Example:
number
APPLICATION
specifically
with
directions.
position
operator.
STYLES
Spreader
Spring
System.
is
are
classified
letters
Style
in a standard
"Style
in
construction
in
discretion
while
Single
Pressed
identified
suffixed,
numbers
39500
that
it
OF
to
the
Standard
to
such
OF
Curved
-
as
seated
MACHINES
Two
Lower
by a Style
as
standard
but
machine.
QAZ
are
grouped
contains
CAT
ALOO
some
right,
at
the
Blade
Thread
never
contain
a
".
no
letters.
Styles
Special
left,
machine.
Needle,
Machine,
Knife,
number
and
contain
the
"Z"
under a Class
of
Styles
front,
Automatic
on a name
special.
the
letter
is
suffixed
Example:
machines
of
back,
Operating
Two
Looper -Three
Differential
plate
Standard
letter
"Z
machines
Lubricating
"Z
".
When
to
the
number
"Class
as
listed
etc.,
direction
are
Feed,
".
in
39500
39500
39500
*
39500
QA
Light
warp,
The
children's
hanging
seam
cam
R.P.M.
QB
warp,
The
shirts,
garments.
1/8
and
QP
warp,
sweat
standard
adjusted
R.P.M.
QY
knit
knives.
mm);
Maximum
and
sewing
seams
widths.
adjusted
Light
and
sewing
polo
inch
differential
Medium
and
shirts,
Medium
outerwear
stitch
to
medium
ribbed
combination
slips,
are a primary
3/32and
main
to
medium
ribbed
combination
shirts.
Seam
(2.
38
and
feeds.
to
ribbed
underwear
seam
main
Seam
recommended
width,
and
to
made
Specification,
range.
duty
knit
fabrics
has
pajamas.
and
knit
panties,
Specification,
3.
17
heavy
knit
differential
heavy
8-20
nightgowns,
1/8inch
differential
duty
machine
fabrics
has
mm);
Maximum
duty
fabrics
and
1/8
inch
duty
from
per
speed
machine
of
cotton,
been
requisite.
been
machine
similar
machine
cotton,
504-SSa-1;
designed
(2.
38and
feeds.
of
cotton,
designed
infant
504-SSa-1;
stitch
recommended
made
inch;
(3.
feeds.
7500
from
17
cam
R.P.M.
for
seaming
silk,
especially
or
similar
Seam
3.17
Maximum
for
seaming
silk,
for
and
children's
range,
for
seaming
cotton
garments.
mm);
Maximum
for
seaming
wool
and
standard
adjusted
light
or
Specification,
mm);
light
or
general
standard
8-30
speed
and
Seam
stitch
synthetic
and
similar
for
articles
stitchrange,
recommended
and
similar
purpose
knit
seam
per
inch;
8000
medium
wool,
Specification,
range,
recommended
medium
seam
main
medium
weight
use
where
504-SSa-1;
medium
weight
wear,
widths,
cam
R.P.M.
to
heavy
used
8-20
and
yarns.
width,
and
differenti
weight
synthetics.
on
women's
long
8-30per
speed
weight
synthetics.
seaming
and
adjusted
weight
on
snow
504-SSa-1;
per
inch;
speed
heavy
Wide
1/8
inch
flat,
and
straight
standard
inch;
8000
flat,
of
"T"
similar
3/32
al
and
main
flat,
suits,
cam
7500
loosely
cutting
(3.17
feeds.
*
DISCONTINUED
-
In
repair.
most
instances,
component
3
parts
can
be
ordered
for
customer
STYLES
OF
MACIDNES
(Continued}
39500
39500
*
39500
39500
RA
Medium
wear
a
Wide
inch
feeds.
39500
ribbed
standard
stitch
recommended
elastic
power
5 / 8
(5.
3/32
ential
elastic
stitch
those
Seam
seam
main
made
reinforcing
cutting
(3.
97
Maximum
RF
Medium
QB
sewing
knit
seam
range. 8-20
RM
Light
to
panties,
driven
inch
( 7.
56
mm}
inch
(2.
feeds.
RR
Medium
to
girdles
·.
Machine
who
Specification
width
and
differential
mm};
wide
do
to
from
tape
knives.
stitch
to
cotton,
widths,
speed
to
medium
metering
94
to
leg
38
mm};
Maximum
to
can
not
1/4
inch
heavy
cotton.
recommended
heavy
parts.
half
15.
heavy
wish
used
Seam
wool,
per
7500
88
elastic.
stitch
and
be
503
(6.
feeds.
duty
wool
on
shoulder
Specification,
range,
duty
machine.
For
rayon
3/32,
inch;
R.P.M.
duty
slips
and
device
mm};
Seam
range,
recommended
duty
foundation
used
to
trim
or
505-SSa-l,
35
machine
and
synthetic
8-20
seaming
cam
machine
can
machine
with
mm};
Maximum
per
speed
and
silk
1/8
adjusted
similar
and
elastic
also
Specification
8-30
garments
or
the
stitch
for
seaming
seams
same
and
for
speed
for
without
material,
of
504-SSa-1;
inch;
7500
R.P.M.
as
all
types
fabrics.
5/32
main
seaming,
garments.
guide
be
ordered
per
break
hinged
range.
recommended
medium
yarns,
sweaters
cam
adjusted
Style
and
Seam
inch
and
differential
Prepared
roller.
503-SSa-1;
inch;cam
7500
with
the
R.P.M.
open
either a two
standard
a
front
open
8-30
and
with
provision
and
similar
standard
main
39500
(2.
trimming
to
QP.
weights
Specification,
38,
3.17
and
for
Elastic
handle
adjustedmainand
seaming
fabric
to
make
per
speed
narrow
standard
trimming
guide
inch;
7500
heavy
seam
except
of
feeds. Maximum
or
LSa-1;
knit
for
width.
and
differential
flat.
504-SSa-1;
and
attaching
use
with
width,
seam
and
attaching
three
knives.
is
cam
R.P.M.
outer-
inserting
garments.
5/32
fitted
3.
7 / 3 2
included.
with
warp
standard
and
97
mm};
frill
Galkin
5/16
inch
width,
differ-
thread
For
adjusted
to
of
39500
39500
39500
*
39500
*
DISCONTINUED
RS
Light
edge
requiring
seam
main
purpose
Jesse
width
differential
used
similar
knife
inch
differential
other
ard
main
SE
SF
SG
seams
and
Light
1/8
Medium
for
parts.
(3.17
Light
light
seam
and
to
medium
on
pajamas,
reinforced
width,
Heap
3/32
differential
to
medium
of
seaming
folder
inch
(3.17
feeds.
to
heavy
attaching a reinforcing
garments.
Seam
and
feeds.
to
to
width,
differential
-
Specification,
4.
76
medium
medium
1/8
In
most
repair.
duty
seams.
inch
(2.
feeds.
duty
and
attaching
No.
U-100.
mm};
Maximum
duty
tape
mm};
Maximum
duty
weight
inch
feeds.
instances,
machine
negligees,
Seam
38
mm};
Maximum
machine
stitch
recommended
machine
automatically
stitch
recommended
machine
material.
(3.17
Maximum
Specification,
collarettes
Seam
range,
tape
504-SSa-1;
range,
mm};
component
for
producing
peignoirs,
stitch
for
range,
recommended
with
reverse
Specification,
8-30
speed
for
seaming
used
stitch
on
guided
standard
8-20
upturned
Seam
recommended
per
speed 7 500
range,
parts
high
blouses
504-EFe-1
to
"T"
per
shoulder
by
slot
inch;
hem
Specification,
and
8-30
per
speed
differential
shirts.
504-SSa-1;
inch;
8000
can
bulky
in
seam
on
8-15
speed
be
cam
R.
seams
cam
R.
per
quality,
similar
inverted;
inch;
8000
Prepared
adjusted
P.
M.
knit
sweaters;
presser
widths
adjusted
P.
M.
cotton
505-EFa-1;
inch-
8000~R.
ordered
turned
sheer
cam
R.P.M.
feed
for
standard
of
sweaters
foot.
1/8
wash
cam
P.
for
down
items
standard
adjusted
general
to
accept
seam
main
can
Straifht
and 3 16
main
cloths
stand-
adjusted
M.
customer
and
be
and
and
and
4
STYLES
OF
MACHINES
(Continued)
39500
*
39500
*
39500
maximum
sewing
50-100%
may
TA
Light
Specification
2.
38
mm)
main
having a square
light
seams
widths.
cam
R.P.M.
flies
and
3/8
ential
39500
be
and
TD
Light
and
are a primar:y
adjusted
TH
Medium
and
similar
inch
feeds.
MARK
rated
operation
machine
necessary
duty
505-EFe-1
depending
differential
to
medium
3/3 2 and
main
zipper
operations.
(9.
52
Maximum
IV
speeds.
may
machine.
medium
separation
weight
1/ 8 inch
and
to
heavy
tapes
mm);
machines
necessitate
running
to
reduce
for
inverted;
on
material;
feeds.
requisite.
differential
to
stitch
SPEED
Varied
cycle
Maximum
duty
recommended
the
machine
located
perma-press
(2.
duty
machine
pants
Seam
range.
have
field
and a longer
machine's
toe
closing
standard
stitch
approximately
Seam
38
and
feeds.
fronts;
Specification
6-16
RECOMMENDATION
been
tested
conditions.
operating
on
women's
seam
range.
recommended
with
the
main
materials
Specification
3.
17
Maximum
for
simultaneously
also
per
speed
in
at a lower
than
speed
where
mm);
attaching
504-SSa-1;
inch;
7500
their
severity
recommended
by
10-15%.
width.
15-100
speed
and
at
504-SSa-1;
stitch
recommended
zippers
cam
R.P.M.
complete
speed.
seamless
1/16
to3/32
per
inch;
8000
differential
the
needle.
long
straight
range.
attaching
standard
adjusted
stitch
and
cleanliness
When
hosiery.
cam
R.P.M.
standard
8-30
to
right
main
range
operating
stitch
inch(l.
adjusted
feed
for
seaming
pucker
per
speed
right
flies
seam
and
at
length.
Seam
59
dogs
free
seam
inch;
8000
pants
only
width,
differ-
their
of
the
from
to
it
The
MARK
maximum
mum
readjustment
CAUTION!
filled
A
straight
should
Machine
sight
lines
Machine
main
To
when
no
case
The
It
is a magnetic
have enter ed
performance,
recommended
before
mineral
be
used.
gauge
when
reservoir
operating
machine
maintain
should
drain
IV
is a precision
of
precision
Oil
was
beginning
oil
is
filled
on
front
is
automatically
filled.
maximum
continuously,
oil
remain
plug scr
scr
the
crank case
manufactured
the
machine
speed
of
is
ew
for
the
first
mechanisms.
drained
to
of a Sayboltviscosity
with
machine.
stationary.
Check
recommended
in
ew
is
designed
from
operate.
oil
at
spring
Red
lubricated.
oil
daily
the
oil
machine
located
to
.
It
s
hould
accumulate possible
should
20
OILING
machine
Oil
tip
before the
must
for
at
days
cap
of
No
speed
more
back
be
be
capacity
of
oil
be
r e
mov
and
operated
of
field
when
90
to
in
top
indicator
oiling
morning
and
changed
than
of
machine
ed
tested
of
125
cover.
is
serviceability
one
and
sewing
at
1000
operation.
shipped,
Class
seconds
should
necessary,
start; add
at
least
year.
near
foreign
cleaned
39500
Oil
machine.
R.P.M.
This
so
reservoir
is
at
100°
level
show
other
oil
of
every
bottom
ma teria
peri
odicall
To
below
will
minimize
eight
Fahrenheit
is
checked
between
than
as
required.
this
equipment
six
months.
edge
ls
which
y.
obtain
maxi-
must
ounces.
gauge
keeping
of
base.
may
be
at
In
*
DISCONTINUED
-
In
repair.
most
instances,
component
5
parts
can
be
ordered
for
customer
NEEDLES
Each
denotes
number,
in
thousandths
size
packaged
the
stamped
number
and
Class
needle
154
154
154
for
GAS.
GBS;
GHS.
commended
Type
154
154
No.
GAS
GBS
UNION
kind
39500
Styles
For
while
Below
SPECIAL
of
shank,
on
of
an
represent
sold
by
machines
39500
Styles
for
Styles
are
the
inch,
the
Union
39500
the
needles.
Round
struck
055/022,
shank,
groove,
065/025,
110/044, 125/049,
Round
struck
070/027,
shank,
groove,
075/029,
needle
point,
needle
midway
complete
Special.
use a curved
QA,
QB,
RS
39500
type
numbers,
round
spotted,
round
spotted,
has
both
type
length,
shank,
groove,
denotes
between
symbol
shank
which
blade
QP,
QY,
RA,
and
TD,
the
standard
RM
and
RR,
the
descriptions
Description
point,
curved
chromium
070/027, 075/029,
140/054,
point,
150/060.
curved
chromium
080/032.
and
finish
largest
is
needle.
RF,
standard
and
blade,
plated
blade,
plated
size
number.
and
diameter
and
eye.
given
on
The
SE,
SF,
recommended
recommended
and
sizes
Sizes
standard
and
080/032,
standard
and
The
other
details.
of
blade,
Collectively,
the
label
standard
SG,
TA
and
needle
available
length,
is
single
available
090/036,
length,
is
double
available
type
number
The
size
measured
type
and
of
all
needles
recommended
TH
is
Type
is
Type
needle
of
the
re-
groove,
in
sizes
100/040,
groove,
in
sizes
is
154
GHS
To
sample
on
label.
Selection
should
pass
Success
use
of
needles
reputation
more
than
Release
Fig.
in
socket
1/4
1, 1A,
operating
wrench
turn.
Round
struck
sizes
have
needle,
needle
A
complete
or
of
freely
in
the
packaged
for
producing
three-quarters
pressure
lB
or
direction
No. 213 88
Again
shank,
groove,
065/025,
orders
the
proper
through
operation
lC)
turn
round
ball
070/027,
promptly
type
order
and
would
needle
needle
of
under
highest
of a century.
on
presser
and
swing
until
needle
AU,
furnished
handwheel
point,
point,
curved
spotted,
075/029,
and
size
number
read:
size
is
determined
eye
in
UNION
our
quality
SPECIAL
brand
needles
CHANGING
foot
by
presser
is
at
its
with
until
needle
blade,
chromium
080/032,
accurately
should
"1000
order
name,
Needles,
to
~ ® ,
NEEDLES
turning
arm
(U)
lowest
machine,
is
at
standard
plated
090/036.
filled,
be
forwarded.
Type
by
size
of
produce a good
machines
in
materials
presser
out
point
loosen
high
of
can
foot
position.
of
travel.
needle
position;
length,
and
an
empty
Use
154
GAS,
thread
stitch
be
secured
which
and
workmanship
release
Turn
Using
clamp
withdraw
single
is
available
package,
description
Size
used.
formation.
is
backed
bushing
handwheel
hexagonal
nut
groove,
11
027
Thread
only
by
by
for
(AG,
about
needle.
in
a
•
a
To
left,
insert
position,
nut.
Return
replace
turn
needle,
needle
handwheel
presser
in
arm
leave
holder
until
(U)
needle
until
holder
to
position;
holder
it
rests
is
at
against
again
re-lock
6
high
at
position
stop
its
low
presser
pin.
point
foot
and,
with
Keeping
of
travel;
release
the
fl.at
needle
then
bushing
to
the
in
this
tighten
(AG).
THREAD
STAND
(503
STITCH)
After
through
eyelet.
guide
The
lower
the
middle
front.
post
slot
After
cable.
the
front
through
the
lower
upper
through
the
tension
front
thread
the
The
(C)
Both
It
hole
the
hole
the
thread
back
needle
from
looper
hole
(K)
thread
is
brought
upper
hole
back
lower
discs
guide
hole
front
from
threads
in
tension
comes
of
thread
hole
from
to
hole
(J),
comes
of
thread
to
thread
front
then
THREAD
up
through
eyelet.
of
back
front,
through
(M).
from
thread
is
back,
is
continue
post
from
tension
to
through
from
cone
eyelet
then
and
threaded
to
back,
(G)
and
STAND
cone
the
The
thread
front.
back
tension
on
(B).
threaded
then
through
through
and
between
on
through
(504
on
cone
back
hole
needle
guide
The
lower
the
middle
to
front.
post
cone
then
through
finally
the
and
support
of
and
All
slot
support
down
the
the
upper
through
tension
front
505
thread
upper
(C)
from
looper
hole
three
(K)
(A,
through
the
lower
thread
STITCH)
(A.
eyelet
looper
front
thread
from
threads
in
tension
Fig.
upper
hole
hole
the
lower
discs
Fig.
threads
to
front
lA)
the
hole
back
(J),
guide
1,
(B).
back,
is
threaded
to
then
post
it
front
of
from
to
hole
through
(M).
lB
or
then
are
and
back,
continue
(G)
is
brought
hole
tension
back
front,
from
lC)
down
then
then
through
and
and
on
of
thread
thread
to
front.
through
back
tension
as
appli-
through
threaded
through
the
finally
between
through
up
to
7
(;]
Tension
(I
Tension
II
Tension
[!]
Tension
ll)
spring Shield
Nut
Spring
Spring~
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Fer~
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,
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··.
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Thread
Eyelet
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D
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m
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FOR
QY,
STYLES
RA,
FOR
Looper
Guide
Arm
504
RF,
505
STYLE
STITCH
39500
RS,
STITCH
QA, QB, QP,
~E.
SF,
39500
TA
TD
and
TH
8
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r.-11-.11
~Upper
m
Top
Needle
Upper
Thread
Lower
Fig.
Cover
Thread
Looper
Tube
Looper
Looper
1
Eyelet
Assembly
li]
II
II
Tension
Tension
Tension
Nut
Spring
Spring
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li)
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Eyelet
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ll)
spring Shield
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Tension
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Front
Post
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Disc
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,,
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Fabric Guard
D Frame
Thread
m
Presser
FOR
STYLES
Looper
Guide
Arm
503
Bracket
STITCH
39500
RM and
RR
9
Needle
Thread
Needle
m
Lower
Fig.
Top
Thread
Upper
Tube
Looper
1A
Cover
Eyelet
Looper
Assembly
li]
Tension Nut
liill
Tension Sprin
l!I
Ferrule
U Tension
[!]
Tension
(ll
spring Shield
D Tension
l3
Tension
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[i
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Spring~
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Post
Disc
Thread
Thread
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Slot
Felt
Guide
Guide
~
·.. ·-..
r•~~.,...
,
m Cone Support
ll)
upper
Iii
Auxiliary
(3
Lower
m Fabric Guard
D Frame
Thread
m
Presser
Looper
Looper
Looper
Looper
Guide
Arm
FOR
Thread
Thread
Thread
Bracket
505
STITCH
STYLE
Eyelet
Eyelet
Eyelet
39500
SG
£t
/
Ladle
~
~-'
~
._
._.
Upper
Thread
WJ
upper
Fig.
1B
Needle
Pull-off
a,
Looper
Tube
Looper
Thread
Eyelet
Assembly
10
(;]
(I
II
Tension
Tension
Tension
Nut
Spring
Spring--fJ
Fer~
-~~
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Eyelet
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ll)
spring Shield
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Tension
n
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[i
Tension
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Front
fl
Lower
Post
Discs
Post
Disc
Thread
Thread
Looper
<.
Slot :
Felt
Guide
Guide
Thread
· ..
Eyelet
B Cone
Support
Iii
Auxiliary
~
Upper
BI
Fabric
m
Presser Arm
Looper
Looper
Guard
F
OR
Thread
Thre
ad Eye
Bracket
505
STITCH
STYLE
Eyelet
let
39500
RR
Top
edle
Ne
Upper
Thread
Needle
Upper
Lower
F ig. l C
Looper
Looper
Cover
Thread
Tube As s e
Eyel
Looper
et
mbly
11
THREADING
Only
1 B
and
It
quence
stitch
1,
needle
ting
by
position.
tension
(M,
thread
pass
and
until
eyes
are
(Fig.
lB
Before
direction
turning
Be
Double
Fig.
in
through
heel
from
in
left
parts
1 C}.
will
of
threading
and
third.
sure
discs
1,
eyelet
front
of
left
hand.
involved
Parts
simplify
lA}.
The
lC}
is
to
beginning
until
presser
threads.
(J}
and
end
of
lA.
lB
(R,
Fig.
of
looper
frame
lower
to
right.
in
threading
are
placed
the
threading
the
lower
recommended
thread
to
thread,
needle
foot
in
thread
looper
looper
(X}
release
as
they
diagonal
TO
and
or
lC}.
1.
lA.
thread
thread
Left
(V}
in
their
of
looper
the
lower
swing
is
at
bushing
come
slots
THREAD
lead
Then
lB
or
pull-off
guide
is
all
eye
of
are
relative
these
first
sequence
looper
cloth
high
it
position,
from
(K}
THE
through
lead
lC)
(AF}.
(T).
the
lower
shown
machines
and
(AG)
the
in
LOWER
thread
from
way
looper
in
positions
the
when
first.
plate
and
tension
tension
the
right
Lead
Turn
to
threading
to
follow
needle
using
upper
open,
release
swing
thread
posts
LOOPER
right
through
handwheel
the
can
eyelet
to
thread
left,
be
threaded
diagrams
for
clarity.
second
the
504
looper
turn
pressure
presser
guide
(G}.
both
left.
behind
then
the
recommended
when
or
505
second,
handwheel
on
arm
(C}.
of
front
eyes
NOTE:
fabric
in
operating
thread
easily
(Fig.
using
presser
are
thread
of
lower
Thread
through
if
the
stitch
and
in
opera-
(U}
between
looper
guard
direction
tweezers
1.
se-
(Fig.
foot
out
guide
must
both
lA,
503
the
of
(S}
NOTE:
upper
turn
through
eyes
front
assembly
tube
thread
NOTE:
lower
passing
handwheel
position.
eyelet
needle
In
position.
Thread
handwheel
auxiliary
of
upper
of
assembly
through
In
position.
CAUTION!
from
TO
Thread
(AD).
thread
Fig.
TO
THREAD
upper
looper
looper
(AA},
upper
Fig.
tube
THREAD
needle
in
operating
Insert
under
eyelet
lC
for
looper
until
looper
thread
lead
(AA).
1 C
for
Be
assembly
thread
needle
the
point
thread
thread
Pull
looper
the
sure
THE
direction
thread
neck
(AC).
505
stitch,
UPPER
thread
of
thread
eyelet
pull
-off
under
thread
eye
505
stitch,
upper
to
NEEDLE
through
from
of
top
Thread
LOOPER
through
upper
eyelet
(N}
(AF}.
neck
out
from
looper
upper
(FOR
middle
until
right
cover
needle
the
lower
(504
left
looper
(P}
from
After
of
top
bottom
front
the
upper
thread
looper
ALL
eyelet
needle
to
casting;
from
looper
AND
eyelet
(W}
from
left
pulling
cover
of
to
back.
looper
is
eye.
STYLES
of
(X,
left.
then
front.
505
of
is
all
back
to
right.
casting
tube;
under
front
Fig.
through
down
thread
STITCH
front
the
to
front,
Note:
up
upper
and
push
thread
lower
EXCEPT
thread
1,
lA,
both
through
eyelet
thread
way
thread
looper
down
tube
eyelet
looper
guide
lC)
eyes
is
placed
ONLY}
guide
left.
then
down.
39500
through
is
(M}.
is
of
hole
through
must
placed
at
needle
(M).
Lead
thread
then
thread
SG)
Then
its
in
top
in
Then
thread
both
pass
tube
thread
insert
in
when
tur
highe
three
cove
the
in
the
12
TO
THREAD
THE
NEEDLE
(FOR
STYLE
39500
SG)
Thread
handwheel
Insert
top
Thread
tension
secure
formly
increase
foot,
(B).
ing
When
set,
throat
surface
1. 59
Set
needle
cover
needle
The
nuts
proper
Sufficient
should
loosen
Adjusting
increases
pressure
tighten
plate,
is
mm)
cap
(.D)
needle
in
operating
thread
casting;
from
amount
or
approximately
from
against
of
{D,
Fig.
stitch
PRESSER
presser
be
decrease
lock
nut
screw
pressure,
adjusting
lock
position
the
nut
thread
from
then
front.
tension
formation.
maintained.
(A,
top
locking
through
direction
back
through
on
1,
lA,
FOOT
foot
amount
Fig.
has a right
loosening
screw
{A).
With
locking
1/32
surface
nut
middle
until
to
front
needle
THREAD
the
needle
lB,
lC).
PRESSURE
pressure
Should
of
pressure
2)
and
hand
{B)
presser
nut
inch
of
{C).
eyelet
needle
of
thread
TENSION
and
Tension
to
feed
it
be
turn
adjusting
thread
decreases
has
been
fo.ot
(C)
so
that
to
1/16
adjusting
of
(X,
Fig.
needle
pull-off
looper
on
work
necessary
on
presser
so
tighten-
pressure.
properly
resting
its
inch(.
screw
front
lB)
thread
eyelet
threads
threads
uni-
screw
on
under
79
{B).
thread
eyelet
to
to
is
at
(AB)
is
should
guide
its
(AD),
regulated
(M).
highest
from
be
only
Fig.
Then
under
right
by
enough
turn
position.
neck
knurled
2
to
of
left.
to
Feed
approximately
feed
39540
of
stitches
chine
to
exploded
Generally
of
stitches
and
direction
Following
5,
6,
40,
50, 60,
tional
39
540 B
Example: 1139540
eccentrics
eccentric
B-12.
Style
7,
eccentrics
Minor
obtainable
39500
views
produced;
8,
9,
70,
with a minor
12
is
speaking,
of
stitch
10,
used
stitches
No.
numbers
QA
in
stretch
11,
100.
may
B-12".
ASSEMBLING
in
39540
when
will
be
catalog
differential
main
Only
{left
of
material
number
12,
be
number
per
13,
two
ordered
FEED
Style
inch.
B-10
of
the
using
shipped
for
hand)
feed
14,
eccentrics
suffixed
AND
ECCENTRICS
39500
part
that
eccentrics
eccentrics
15,
QA
It
will
while
symbol
eccentric.
with
{right
feed
being
16,
separately.
ADJUSTING
machines
be
noted
that
of
above
furnished
hand)
eccentric
sewn,
are
18,
20,
are
supplied
to
indicate
have
that
differential
indicate
Unless
combination
on
feed
eccentric
is
selected
or
type
available
22, 24, 26,
To
order
number
SEWING
been
selected
the
part
feed
approximately
otherwise
other
of
operation.
under
with
each
an
PARTS
number
eccentric
of
eccentrics.
styles
determines
in
relation
28,
eccentric
of
stitches
to
the
specified,
of
machines.
to
No.
39540
30,
32,
machine.
produce
of
main
is
No.
number
ma
Refer
number
degree
B-4,
34,
36,
Addi-
use
No.
desired.
-
Before
chip
procedure
guard,
assembling
upper
that
begins
knife
on
and
adjusting
assembly,
the
next
sewing
lower
page.
13
parts,
knife
remove
holder
cloth
assembly,
plate,
fabric
then
guard,
follow
the
SETTING
THE
NEEDLE
With
needle
looper
take
cept
5)
into
up
On
Style
bar
slot.
thread
end
all
stroke,
center
of
21225-1/8.
dle.
Tighten
throat
Fig.
of
39500
(B).
set
needle
When
pull
play
the
looper
Do
not
nut
plate
assembled
needle
3
-off
back.
in
needle
Styles
TH,
With
covered
insert
lower
point
(Fig.
5),
havelowerlooper
(C).
is
at
When
driving
lower
looper
1/8
inch
using
in
high
(12.
39500
and
RR,
above
Fig.
has
throat
laps
arm.
in
at
(3.
looper
position,
position,
70
mm)
QA,
TD;
15/32
SF
and
the
throat
3)
by
been
set
plate.
If
needle
looper
re
tightening
this
catalog
looper
left
17
mm)
gauge
deflecting
needle
needle
above
QB,
QP,
inch
TH.
To
plate,
loosening
properly,
thread
thread
looper
ex-
(A,
Fig.
end
of
its
from
No.
nee-
should
point
throat
QY.
(11.
align
move
clamp
tighten
cam
pull-off
center
plate
RF,
91
mm)
needle
screw
pull-off
(B),
pull-off
should
(A,
RM,
for
needle
screw
separate
screw,
in
the
be
Fig.
RS,
Styles
or
driving
(C).
(C)
(A.
set
3)
set
After
Fig.
front
for
SE,
39500
the
and
by
be
end
1/2
Styles
SG,
height
arm
needle
remove
4)
over-
moving
sure
of
inch
TA
RA,
(B,
to
On
(A,
Fig.
end
of
mm)
gauge
from
No.
deflecting
Now
looper
until
(.
051-.
moves
the
machine
5)
into
its
stroke,
center
21225-3/32.
needle.
assemble
Fig.
needle
102
mm).
Style
bar
5
to
the
springs
39500
(B).
With
set
looper
of
needle
Do
Tighten
differential
right,
forward
TH
insert
lower
point
(Fig.
not
have
nut ( C).
(front)
possible,
er
position
(.
needle
between
its
point
5).
or
051-.
should
from
lower
looper
3/32
inch
using-
lower
feed
SETTING
Set
rear
without
movement
to
102
guard.
rear
SETTING
Now
finish
rear
looper
at
(2.
looper
looper
dog
to
needle
deflect
mm).
needle
be
set
guard
left
38
all
Styles.
THE
interfering
of
lower
needle
Screw
Make
guard
THE
lower
into
surface
REAR
guard
sure
LOWER
looper
the
NEEDLE
(A,
with
knife
Fig.
Fig.
either
holder,
4
GUARD
6)
forward . 002-.
(B)
is
there
and
uBed
is
lower
to
no
interference
looper.
LOOPER
adjustment.
needle
scarf
another . 002-.
as
lower
but
004
set
As
(A,
004
high
loop-
still
lower
Fig.
as
in
inch
rear
7)
inch
14
SETTING
THE
FRONT
NEEDLE
GUARD
Assemble
looper
guard
(D)
is
setting
guards
Fig.
for
Styles
When
upper
shank
QY,
RA,
Styles
position
is
springing
as
close
used
to
make
and
differential
7
39500
the
looper
slightly
RF,
39500
the
front
needle
needle
as
possible
adjust
sure
and
there
its
er
pushed
shank.
upper
in
holds
shaft.
so
inch
(Fig.
SE,
QP,
upper
looper
holder
back
of
RS, SE, SG,
RR
and
SF
upper
looper
set
is
feed
SETTING
Insert
holder.
in
place.
that
SG,
QY,
should
vertical
upper
shank
guard
off
to
needle
front
no
interference
dog.
its
holder,
in
or
Insert
looper
Screw
the
Locate
the
(.
79
to
8),
for
TA
RA,
is
at
be
TA,
looper
(C.
Fig.
backguard,
without
needle
THE
upper
Screw
looper
(B)
and
out,
or
upper
shaft,
(C.
upper
looper
upper
shank
1.
extends
59
mm)
Styles
and
TD,
RF,
RR.
the
right
set
to
position
on
Styles
TD
and
holder
about
vertically.
6).
set
touching.
guard.
between
UPPER
holds
permits
turned
looper
if
it
Fig.
looper
beyond
39500
and
SF
and
end
39500
TH
should
When
front
After
LOOPER
(A,
Fig.
upper
around
holder
is
not
8)
on
holder
in
its
1/32
QA,
1/16
TH.
of
its
upper
QA,
(Fig.
lower
needle
Screw
this
needle
8)
loop-
it
to
into
already
clamp
in
holder
to
1/16
holder
QB,
to
3/32
stroke,
looper
QB,
8).
be
set
in
be
its
the
RS,
QP,
On
inch
to
(1.
59
Fig.
to
2.
6
38
mm)
Be
of
looper
upper
set
lower
ance
looper
upper
looper
(Fig.
As
the heel
1/32
inch(.
sure,
the
of
Fig.
on
and
casting.
shaft
looper
eye
9).
upper
the
40
9
all
and
point
with . 002
looper
upper
to.
79
styles,
By
adjusting
by
turning
to
cross
there
moves
looper
mm)
clearance.
Next,
travel;
needle
it
by
moving
represents
RS,
SE,
NOTE:
ar e
9/64 and
39500
(3.
57
QY,
mm
settings
is a clearance
the
lower
to • 004
toward
should
turn
check
and
throat
the
SG,
For
Styles 39500
RA
and
are
9/64
looper
looper
looper
(. 051
to • 102
the
pass
behind
handwheel
dimensions
plate
the
upper
dimensional
TA
and
TD.
35/64
and
RF,
12.
70
and
holder
around
to
top
of
(Fig.
looper
QP and
inch
the
mm).
15/32
between
in
or
its
the
left
mm)
of
its
the
lower
until
looper
upper
10).
holder
setting
(3.
57 a
settings
For
inch
heel
out
shank,
of
the
clear-
stroke,
looper
If
r e
for
TH
the
nd
Styles
(3.57
of
Fig.
looper
is
setting
(A.
at
the
point
Fig.
Styles
head
left
with
is ne
1 O).
39500
with
end
r e
cessary,
Figure
QA,
dimensional settings
13.
89 m m
are
39500
and
11.91
9/64
RR
). For
and
and
mm).
1/2
8
1/64
of
spect
Style
RF
to
its
to
do
10
QB,
s
inch
the
15
SETTING
For
(12.
30
looper
from
inch
upper
looper
made
looper
tain
the
THE
example,
mm)
holder
left
end
(3.
97
looper
shaft.
it
may
around
condition
UPPER
LOOPER
dimension
in
increased
counterclockwise
of
machine;
mm)
is
increased
holder
After
be
necessary
its
these
shank
shown
(Continued)
31/64
by
turning
dimension5/32
by
left,
out
changes
to
turn
slightly
in
Fig.
upper
looking
pulling
of
upper
upper
to
main-
9.
inch
are
Fig.
level
SG,
NOTE:
looper
with
TA
and
For
and
Check
downstroke.
slightly
of
machine.
and
SETTING
Insert
(B)
holds
pushed
holder
Fig.
and
in
into
8A)
allows
on
10
top
surface
TD.
Styles
needle
setting
If
needle
rotate
Reset
THE
upper
upper
or
out,
spreader
clamp
holder
When
it
can
upperlooperismovingtotheright,
upper
bottom
of
upper
39500
should
to
QP, QY,
align
avoid
rubs
looper a short
to
maintain
UPPER
SPREADER
spreader
spreader
or
turned
shaft,
collar
to
be
in
if
holds
rotated
the
correct
be
checked
looper
of
the
eye
needle
looper
RA,
exactly.
interference
the
back
distance
dimensions
(A,
Fig.
its
around
it
is
8A)
holder,
its
not
already
spreader
or
adjusted
(Fig.
of
upper
(FOR
shank.
centers
setting
quickly
eye
11)
RF,
RR,
between
is
as
follows:
on
the
should
for
SF
upper
looper,
counterclockwise,
of
Figs.
9,
STYLES
in
its
holder.
and
permits
Insert
in
place.
holder
in
laterally.
obtained,
when
needle,
be
about
Styles
and
TH,
looper
pull
10, 11.
39500
Screw
it
to
spreader
Screw
the
(C.
shaft,
As
39500
the
and
looper
looking
RM
AND
be
QA,
eyes
needle
out
RR
Fig.
QB,
of
of
its
from
ONLY)
RS,
the
on
left
11
SE,
upper
needle
holder
end
Preliminary
end
of
spreader
of
spreader
mm)
is
set
true
to
above
position
should
Style
39500
As
pass
mm)
just
clearance
its
stroke,
shank
shank
the
of
Style
extend
RR.
spreader
behind
Setting:
spreader
slightly
should
spreader
39500
s~reader
1/16
to
moves
the
between
back
holder
RR
except
shank
3/32
eye
spreader
When
holder
extend
inch
from
of
the
upper
spreader
should
of
vertical
1/32
to
1/16
for
the
Style
spreader
39500
approximately
(1. 59
right
lower
and
to
to
left,
looper,
lower
be
(Fig.
inch
2. 38
the
looper
is
at
set
to
8A).
(. 79
RM.
The
holder
vertical.
mm)
Vee
with . 002
(Fig.
should
above
16
the
right
position
Top
end
to
1. 59
same
Top
the
notch
to . 004
9A).
be
end
of
of
spreader
spreader
the
spreader
inch
Fig.
(.
051
8A
shank
holder
should
to . 102
for
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