Union Special 39500S, 39500T, 39500U User Manual

LEWI

S •

SEWING MA

CHI

NES

NEST

QUALITY

STYLES 39500S 39500T

39500U

.

CLASS 39 500

No.

STREAMLINED

103U

Second Edition

HIGH

SPEED

OVERSEAMERS

Catalog

INSTRUCTIONS

FOR

No.

103

U

39500

furnished

ADJUSTING

LIST

s

The

parts

at

list

CLASS

39500

listed

prices

Second

AND

OF

Styles

Edition

OPERATING

PARTS

39500

T

in

this

for

39500

catalog

repairs

u

are

only.

Union

Rights

MACHI

INDUSTRIAL

Copyright

Special

Reserved

NE

CHIC A

Printed

by

COMPANY

SEWING

in

1958

Machine

in

All

MACHINES

GO

U.S.A.

Countries

Co.

November,

1967

FOREWORD

The streamlined performance precision

It

enable

Specials. and

Union

anxious

Class

is

our

the

illustrate

to

39500

styling,

are

methods

constant

customer

The

following

and

Special

cooperate

machine

automatic

characteristics

insuring

aim

to

describe

representatives

with

complete

to

secure

pages

the

you

furnish

is

lubrication,

of

all

possible

contain

parts

will

to

plan

Union

these

interchangeability.

carefully

for

and

Special's

machines.

advantages

valuable

Styles

be

found

estimate

and

prepared

operating

in

~

latest

light

All

Class

all

manufacturing

requirements.

overedger.

running

parts

information

from

and

39500.

New

high

are

the

use

adjusting

MACHINECOMPANY

speed

made

that

will

of

Union

data,

centers,

by

3

Engineering

Department

IDENTIFICATION

OF

MACHINES

Each

plate Standard the

letter letter is

suffixed

Styles ber,

This herein. Class back, Operating

Single chine. Pressed

Union

on

the

Style

"Z".

of

which

catalog

It

39500.

etc. , are

direction

Curved

Intermittent

Lower

39500 S For

materials. Knee foot on

press

to

separate

stitch

Special

machine.

numbers

Example:

When

to

the

machines

contains

applies

can

also

All

taken

Blade

Knife,

seaming

Seam

controlled

length.

carries

Style

only

minor

standard

similar

no

letters.

APPLICATION

specifically

be

applied

references

from

of

handwheel

Needle,

Differential

Automatic

and

specification

top

and

a

Style

numbers

have

one

"Style

or

39500

changes

Style

numbe:r.

in

construction

Example:

to

with

to

directions,

the

operator' s position

is

STYLES

Two

OF

Looper,

Feed

Lubricating

intermittently

504-SSa-1.

tandem

bottom

intermittent

plies.

number

are

classified

more

letters

S".

aremade

Example: "Style

"Class

OF

the

standard

discretion

away

from

MACHINES

,

Trimming

gathering

Gathering

which

suffixed,

Special

Style

in a standardmachine,

are

grouped

39500

CATALOG

Styles

to

some

such

as

while

operator.

Three

Thread,

System.

on

knit

Standard

differential

ratio

is

stamped

as

standard

but

numbers

39500

under a Class

11

•

of

machines

special

right

and

seated

Overseamin

Mechanism

or

light

width

of feed. up

to 3 to 1 depending

in

the

and

special.

never

contain

contain the

SZ".

as

listed

machines

left, front

at

the

machine

g

with

weight

seam

Spring

woven

1/8

Slotted pres

nam

a

"Z"

num-

and

Ma-

inch

ser

e

in

.

39500

T

For

rial.

Knee

press bottom plate

39500

attachment.

U

For rial. Knee

press bottom plate

attachment.

CAUTION!

must ounces. 1

00°

Fahrenheit

be

filled

A

Machine

at sig

ht

ga uge

between gau

seaming

Seam

specification

controll

grooved

seaming and

Seam

specification

controll

groov

ed

Oil was

before beg

straight

should

is

filled

on front

ge lines.

and

ed

tandem

for

1/8

inch

Gathe

ed ta

for

1 I 8 inch

Gathering

dr ained

inning

m i ner al o

be

with

oil

of

machine.

intermittently

504-SSa-1.

intermittent

cord. Independent

ring

ratio

intermittently

504-SSa-1.

ndem

intermittent

cord.

Independent

ratio

OILING

from

to

operate.

il

of a Saybolt

used.

at spring cap

Red

gathering

Standard

primarily

width

differential fee

swing-out

up

to 3 to

gathering

Standard

1 depe

primarily

width

differenti

ndi

al

swing-out aux

up

to 5 to 1 depending on

machine

in

bulb

wh

Oil

capacity

viscosity

top

cover.

on

oil

level

en s

of

hipped,

of

200

indicator

on

of

seam

d.

auxiliary

ng

on on

of seam

feed.

iliary pres

Clas

s 395

to

250 s e

Oil

level

woven Pr

sti

wov

mate-

3/16

inch.

esser foot

pr

es s

ure

tch

leng

th.

en m at e -

3/16

inch.

Presser foot

sure

stitch

s o r e s e

should

00

conds

is

checked

length.

rvoir

is

six

at

show

4

THREAD

STAND

Afterthread through is

threaded

right

hand

tension

Only Parts

It

are

will

threading

Before ating foot of

direction

by

position.

Be

sure

tension

Double eyelet

thread of heel from are

(E, pull-off

frame

of

left

in

left

back

through

hole

discs

parts

placed simplify

lower

beginning

turning

threads.

discs

end

Fig.

looper

lower

to

right.

hand.

comes

thread

and

(AD).

involved

in

looper

until

presser

(AD)

of

thread

1)

from

(T).

thread

looper

from eyelet. each

up

pair

through

in

their

relative

threading

first.

to

thread.

needle

foot

as

they

and

in

diagonal

TO

and

right

Lead

thread

guide

(K)

is

Left

eye

cone

then

down

of

holes

left

slot

THREADING

threading

this

machine

upper

swing

(N)

is

at

release

come

THREAD

lead to

left.

behind

(G).

all

the

way

of

lower

on

thread

through

in

hand

hole.

(AE).

are

shown

positions

looper

cloth

high

position.

bushing

from

slots

the

(AE)

LOWER

it

through

Note:thread

fabric

Turn

handwheel

to

the

looper

stand

front

tension

Then

and

on

for

to

follow

second.

plate

( U);

tension

in

LOOPER both guard

left;

can

(V.

thread

through

in

threading

clarity.

recommended and

open.

turn

release

and

swing

thread

tension

eyes

must

(F)

in

operating

then

thread

be

threaded

Fig.

guide

needle

pressure

posts

of pass and

presser

lower

1).

it

is

brought

eyelet

(W).

wire

continues

thread

guide

diagram

sequence

third.

handwheel

on

arm

guide,

are

(AC).

looper

in

front

through

direction

through

easily

if

down

between

(Fig.

in

oper-

presser

(H)

between

thread

of

looper

both

holes

until

both

eyes

tweezers

up

it

(B).

1).

of

out

Turn thread through

through

both threadmust looper and push

thread

down

tube

CAUTION!

passing

from

Turn highest needle hole

knurled to

secure

in

The

position.

thread

top

amount

tension

handwheel

auxiliary

eyes

pass

in

tube

through

down,

then Be

tube

handwheel

Insert

eyelet

cover

needle

of

nuts

proper

stitch

TO

until

of

upper

front

assembly

thread

insert

sure

upper

assembly

TO

in

operating

needle

(R),

thread

tension

(AA.

formation.

THREAD

point

looper

of

looper

(M).

tube

assembly

thread

looper

to

upper

THREAD

thread

under

eyelet

THREAD

on

needle

Fig.

1).

UPPER

of

upper

thread

thread thread

lead

through

thread

looper

direction

neck

of

and

Tension

LOOPER

looper

eyelet

pull-off

thread

(M).

upper

is

eye.

THE

NEEDLE until

from (P).

top

right

cover

Thread

TENSION

looper

on

7

(L)

(D)

(C)

under

Pull

looper

under

needle

to

casting;

threads

is from

from

(T).

neck

thread

eye

lower

left.

needle

all

the back

left

After

of

out from

looper

(N.

through

then

from

is

should

way

left.

to

front,

to

right.

pulling

top

cover

bottom

front

thread

Fig.

1)

both

down

front.

regulated

be

only

Lead

then

Note:

up

upper

casting

of

tube;

to

back.

when

is

at

eyes

through

by

three

enough

its

of

Suffi

be

maintained.

de

crea

s e

lock

nul Adjusting increases When

pressure set, lig on

throat under from (D) ug·

surface

the

1insl

P

,ESSER

ci e

nt

pressure

Should

amount

(A, Fig . 2)

s c

rew

has a right

pressure,

adjusting screw

hten

lock

plate,

is

approximately

lop

surfa

locking nut

FOOT

to

il

be

of

pressure

and

loosening dec

nul

(i\).

position

ce

of

adjusting screw

(C).

PRESSURE

feed

necessary

on

turn

hand

Wilh

locking

FEED

work

uniformly

presser

adjusting

thread;

reases

(B)

has been

presser

nut

1 I

32

inch

ECCENTRICS

lo

so

(C)

(B).

should

increase

foot,

loosen

screw

tightening pressure.

properly

fo

ot

resting

so

that

to

1 I

16

Set

or

(B).

its

inch

cap

Fig.

2

Feed approximately main is

No. numbers obtainable mately shipped

Generally

ber

of

so

as

Following

5,

6,

36,

eccentrics with a minor number "39540-12". is

also

Defore

uard, upper

g sugge

feed

39540-4

3 1 I 3

stitches

to

7,

40.

available

sted

eccentri

e c

of

the

when

with

give

8,

9,

Only

may

asse

sequence:

14

stitches

entric

for

part

using

stitches

above

speaking,

produced;

the

proper

stitch

10,

two

be

No.

for 5 to 1 ratio

ASSEMBLING

mbling

knife

s

us

d i n

per

is

No.

Styles

combinations

11, 12, 13,

ordered

39540

39500

symbols

that

eccentric.

per

inch.

the

differential number eccentrics

suffixed

A,

sewing

assembly,

main

feed

separately.

producing approximately

these

39540-14

different'al

to

AND

machines

inch.

S, T and

indicate

Unless

of

eccentrics

(right

or gathering

eccentrics

14,

15,

are

supplied

indicate

differential

ADJUSTING

parts,

lower

It

knife

have

will

be

noted

while

No.

remove

that

No.

39540 A for

approximately

39540 A eccentric

otherwise

.

hand)

16,

number

(left

18,

To

feed

hand)

are

available

20,

with

order

of

feed mac

SEWING cloth

holder

been

of differential

specified,

eccentric

action.

22,

each

an

stitch

assembly; then follow this

selected

that

the

Style

the

number

feed

eccentric

under

24, 26, 28,

machine.

eccentric,

es

desired.

3 1 I 3

hines.

PARTS

plate,

fabric guard, chip

to

part

feed

39500

of

produces

machines

determines

is

No.

30, 32, 34,

use

stitches

produce

number

eccentric

U.

Minor

stitches

approxi-

will

num-

selected

39540-

Additional

No.

39540

Example:

per

of

be

4,

inch

Fi

g . 3

SETTING

With sition, in the slot. position, should

throat needle

3)

by

loosening

(B).

If

pull-off(A, looper separate thread retighten screw, end play arm.

THE

throat

need

front

When

be

set

plate

driving

Remove

needle

F i

thread

by

pull-off

ing

be

sure

in

NEEDLE

plate

in

po-

le

should

end

needle

112

(Fig.

arm

clamp throat plat

thread

g.

pull-o

mov

loop

needle driving

of

is

inch

3).

(A, F i

4)

overlaps

ing loo

bac

k. W

er

pull-o

to

8

center needle

at

high

point

above

Move

screw

cam

ff (B),

take

per hen

g. e.

ff

up

Fig. 4

SETTING

sert Fig. With left set inch needle looper

21225-118.

have flecting Tighten

THE

At

this

NEEDLE

point,

lowerlooper(A,

6)

into

bar

lower

end

looper

from

(Fig.

of

looper

its

stroke, point center

6),

gauge

Do

lower

looper

needle.

nut.

(Continued)

in-

(B).

at

1

18

of

using

No.

not

de-

Fig.

6

Now moves scarf rear

Assemble looper guard Screw

After

tween

Fig.

finish

to

the

(A,

Fig.

guard

SETTING

is

springing

as

close

(D)

this

needle

5

SETTING

lower

right,

7)

surface

front

as

is

used

setting

guards

THE

looper

its

until

another

THE

needle

possible

to

adjust

make

and

Set sible, movement to

deflect

is

used

no

interference

looper.

LOWER

adjustment.

point

the

should

needle

.

002-.

FRONT

guard off

back

to

and

sure

there

differential

SETTING

rearneedle

without

of

lower

needle

to

set

LOOPER

be

set

springs

004

inch.

NEEDLE

(C,

Fig.

guard,

needle

set

front

is

no

feed dog.

THE

REAR

g

uard

interfering

knife

forward

rear

needle

between

As

lower

into

the

forward

GUARD

5).

When

set front

without

touchin

needle

interference

NEEDLE

(A,

with holder, .

002-.

guard.

rear

looper needle

from

lower

needle guard.

be -

Fig.

either

but

004

Make

needle

g.

5)

inch.

as lower still

guard

GUARD

high

looper

in

Screw

sure

and

Fi

g. 7

as

pos-

or

position

(B)

there

is

lower

Fi

g. 8

SETTING

Insert

(B,

it

to

upper

Fig.

be

upper

8)

pushed

looper

holds

in

holder

readyin place .

loop

er

hold

er

in the s ha

at the sha

s o th

(Fig.

u

sha

8).

Wh

en

pp

er l

oop

nk about vertically.

clearance

the

er

betw

nk exte

upper hold

loop or

Scr

er s

een heel of

9

upp

into

ew

loop

THE

er er

out

(C,

ft.

nd

hould

UPPER

(A,

Fi

g. 8)

looper

or

turned around

upp

er

looper shaft,

Fig.

Locate upper

s 1 I 16

er is

to

at the rig

be

set

Be sure,

looper

in

8)

LOOPER in its holde

its

holder, and perm

its shank. Inse

if

on

clamp

hold

looper in it s holde

3 I 32 i

to

on

and

nc

h beyond holde r

ht

end

position

all styl

castin

of upp es ther e

g.

r. Scre

it

is

not al-

s the

its strok

er

loop

upp

is

w

it s

r t er

r

e,

er

a

By

shaft

and looper loop

er eye with

SETTING

adjusting

by

turning

point

to

THE

looper

cross

0.

002

UPPER

holder

the

looper

lower

to

0.

is

at dimensions with plate essary, looper

LOOPER

in

around

looper

004

clearance

the

left

respect (Fig. 1 0).

do

holder

(Continued)

or

out

its

shank,

to

the

handwheel

end

of

upper

to

needle

If

resetting

it

by

moving

(A,

Fig.

of left

(Fig.

its

upper

set

of

the

9).

until

travel;

looper

and

the

10).

looper

upper lower

looper

check

point

throat

is

nec-

upper

Fig.

When quickly when the

as

upper

upperlooperand

Check looper the slightly

wise,

and

back

and

looking

dimensions

10

the

correct

follows:

looper

setting

needle

of

upper rotate

from

of

looper machine; upper these upper condition

setting

As

upper

eye

needleshould

to

avoid

on

needle looper, looper a short left

end

Fig.

9,

Dimension

is

centers

pull

ofmachine.

10,

11.

holder

looper

counterclockwise

dim

ens

holder

changes

looper

around

shown

obtained,

looper

on

is the alignexactly(Fig.

interference downstroke.

looper

distance

1/2

inch

ion

left,

are

made,

in

Fig.

it

can

moving

needle,

between

If

out Reset

is

increased

9 I

64

inch

out

of

upper

it

may

its

shank

9.

be

checked

to

the

right,

the

eyes

11).

upper

needle

of

its

rubs

holder

counterclock-

to

maintain

looking is

increased

looper

be

slightly

of

Fig.

by

turning

from

shaft.

necessary

to

maintain

Fig.

9

left by

11

upper

end

of

pulling

After

to

turn

the

Fig.

12

10

SETTING

Assemble ferential and

main

top

surfaces lie

in

the

can

be across edge.

be

Feed dogs

leveled surface ing

adjusting

raises

end

of

both

same

time.

THE

feed

same

checked

teeth

with

by

rotating

or

feed

FEED

and

set the dif-

dog

(A,

dog

of

the teeth

plane.

by sig

with

should

throat

lowers

bars

DOGS

Fig.

12)

(B)

so

the

all

Th

is

htin

a straight

now

plat

feed

tilt-

(C).

the

Thi back

at

the

g

e s

The

the

throat

feed

dogs

ferential

feed

plate.

so

feed

dogs

that

may

SETTING

should

Screw

teeth

be

(D)

rise

set

THE

be

set

locks

about

slightly

FEED

level

feed

3/64

higher

DOGS

at

the

tilting

inch

if

(Continued)

time

adjusting

above

desired.

the

teeth

throat

first in

place.

plate.

appear

The

above

Now

set

dif-

Replace knife flush made knife. knife, width

(A, with

with

Lower

so

of

Lower tightening port latch always

bracket.

be

tightened

Replace (D,

Fig. (F)

in

its

At

bottom

than

1/64

be

set

down

SETTING

lower

Fig.

throat hexagonal

no

lateral

trim

is

knife

screw

for

the

locked

against

SETTING

upper

13)

in

most

of

its

inch

against

THE

knife

13)

should

plate

knife

is

adjustment

changed.

may

be

(B)

and

Because

cloth

with

lower

THE

knife position, clockwise

stroke,

below

cutting

the

LOWER

holder

be

surface.

head

screw

spring

secured

locking

screw

plate

nut

(C)

knife

UPPER

assembly.

setting

position

front

upper

set

pressed

nut

(B) latch even

holder.

nut

cutting

edge

knife

KNIFE

assembly.

with

cutting

Adjustments

which

holds

against

is

necessary

in

any

(C)

against

also

spring,

when

screw

KNIFE Clamp

(E)

to

against

upper

edge

of

lower

and

slightly

Lower

lower

upper

position

serves

it

should

is

upper hold

clamp

knife.

of

upper

knife.

edge

are

when

by

sup-

as

not

knife

The

back

should

chain

from

Fig.

extend

guard

the

13

(J)

cutting

not

less

should

edge.

After

be

tightened

resetting

seat

on

(G).

Remove

the

upper

to

when

main

nut

knife

lock

upper

Fig.

frame

(H)

has

upper

knife

14

(M).

from

been

knife

is

stud

set

for

holding

replaced.

Remove

(J).

nut

Link

11

proper

block

(C)

(K)

width (H)

SETTING

in

of

trim,

place.

THE

Length

by

the

combination

trics

(A, Fig .

(front) (right) main

be Be

key.

and wool feed

move and

used.

feed eccentric

(rear)

In

assembling

sure

hubs

careful

Use

tighten

yarn

eccentric

To

change

thrust

washer

14)

and eccentric

screw

This

STITCH

of

stitch

Outer

actuates

dog; while

(B)

feed

dog. feed

are

faci

not

to

dama

nut

(C)

securely.

in

oil

tube

connections.

feed

finger

(D)

from

(A)

will

(G)

should

will

simplify

LENGTH

is

determined

of

feed

eccen-

(left)

eccentric

differential

the

inner

actuates

the

eccentrics,

ng

each

other.

ge

shaft

or

and washe r (D)

Be

sure

(F)

touches

eccentric,

(L) from

end

now

of slip

re-

its

shaft

off.