Union Special 39500RL, 39500RT, 39500TJ, 39500TK, 39500TM User Manual

INDUSTRIAL SEWI N G

®

FINEST QUALITY

STYLES

39500QS 39500QT 39500RD 39500RL

39500RT

MACHINES

/1)?

(

~

. :,,'

'

(j

39500TJ

39500TK

39500TM

39500TT

CATALOG

No.

103QS

CLASS

MARK

IV

39500

HIGH

OVERSEAMERS

WITH

INTERMITTENT

DIFFERENTIAL

SPEED

OR

FEED

UNION SPECIAL C

CHICAGO

ORPOR

AT

ION

Here

are

Oil

for

Specifications

Union

Sewing

Specification roleum mended machines.

roleum white

1.

mount.

roleum

high mitters.

3. used.

UNION

oil,

for

Specification

oil,

or

with a maximum

For

use

Specification

oil,

viscosity

Specification

quality

It

Where

Is

No.

SPECIAL

viscosity

all

viscosity

where freedom from

grease similar

3 grease is

SPECIFICATION

Viscosity Flash Pour Color Neutralization No. (Max.) Viscosity Index

(D

C

ompounding

Copper Corrosion

*Anline *Used

S.S.U.

(Min.)

(Max.)

A.S.T.M

& D Min.)

No.

with

Buna N

174

100

oiling

175

100

87

300

100 for to

commercial

NO.

at

100°F

. (Max.) 3 1 3

(Max.)

Rubber

Special

Machines

specifies a high

seconds

applications

specifies a high

seconds A.S.T.M.

oil

specifies a high

seconds

use

not

at

specifies a general purpose

in ball bearings and trans-

obtainable,

174 175 87

90-125 90-125 300-350

350 350

20

0.10

85

None

lA

1 75-225 l 75-225 1 75-

"O"

Retainers

at

100°F.

on

at

l00°F.,

color

staining

100°F.

N.L.G.I.

No. 2 may

20

0.

85

None

quality

Recom-

high speed

quality

water

number

is

quality

, grease

350

10

0.

Non

IA

pet-

of

para-

pet

No.

be

20

10

85

IA

225

-

e

NOTE

1:

The

use

meeting above class

essential. These

1.

2. Rust

3.

4.

5. These additives and

not

separate.

NOTE

2:

not

shall

1.

2. Tackiness

3. Lead soap additives

4.

may

Oxidation

inhibitors Lubricity Anti Film

removable

Oils

be

Extreme

Detergents

additives

-oxidants strength additives

must

containing

used

at

pressure

or

l!NION SPEC

IIH

III

OUAUIY

CORPORATION

of

non-corrosive additives

ification

include:

inhibitors

be

by wick

any

adhesive additives

is desirable

completely

the

time:

additives-corrosive

soluble in the oil

feeding

follow

ing

IAi,

nor

shall they

typ

e additives

but

in

oils not

Catalog

No.

INSTRUCTIONS

FOR

103

QS

ADJUSTING

39500

QS

39500

LIST

QT

RD

First

AND

OF

CLASS

Styles

RL

39500

OPERATING

PARTS

39500

TT

Edition

39500

RT

TJ

TK

TM

October,

1978

Rights

Union

Reserved

Copyright

Special

©

By

Corporation

in

All

1974

Countries

UNION SPECIAL CORPORATION

INDUSTRIAL

Printed

SEWING

CHICAGO

in

3

MACHINES

U.S.A.

IDENTIFICATION

OF

MACHINES

Each

on

the

machine.

Style

numbers Example: only

minor

ard

Style

Styles

which

differs

39500".

This

herein.

Class given of

handwheel

It

39500.

from

MARK IV Three ential

or Feed.,

Lubricating

UNION

have

"Style

changes

number.

of

machines from

catalog

can

also

References

the

operator's

is

away

Hi-Styled

Four

Thread

Trimming

System.,

SPECIAL

Style

39500

one

are

numbers

or

QS ".

made

Example:

similar

the

Style

applies

be

applied

from

High

Overseaming

Mechanism

Improved

machine

more

is

are

classified

letters Special in a standard

"Style

number

39500

in

construction

in

APPLICATION

specifically

with

to

directions

position

discretion

while

operator.

STYLES

Speed.,

One

Machine

with

Air

Cooling

identnied

suffixed,

Style

machine,

QSZ

that

OF

to

the

..

such

seated

OF

MACHINES

or

Two

Spring

System.

by a Style

as

numbers

11

•

are

it

contains

CATALOG

standard

to

some

as

right., left.,

at

Curved

..

Differential

Pressed

standard

but

never

contain

a

"Z

grouped

no

Styles Special

the

machine.

Blade

number

and

on a name

special.

contain

the

II

is

letter

suffixed

under a Class

letters.

of

Example:

machines

Styles

front

..

back.,

Operating

Needles

or

Intermittent

Lower

Knife

the

letter "Z

to

of

machines

..

Two

..

plate

Standard

"Z

".

When

the

stand-

number

"Class

as

listed

etc

...

are

direction

Looper.,

Differ-

Automatic

in

39500

QS and dresses., press

separate length. mm); Maximum

39500

QT and dresses., press pressure on inch feeds.

39500

RD intermittently aprons., trolled plate length. 17

/64

differential

Single

needle

intermittently

aprons.,

controlled

top

and

Seam

stitch

range.,

recommended

Single

needle

intermittently

aprons.,

controlled

plate

stitch

(4. 76

length.

mm);

Maximum

Two

needle

lingerie.,

tandem

attachment

Seam

inch

(6.

feeds.

three

gathering

lingerie,

tandem

bottom

plies.

specification,

8-20

speed

three

gathering

lingerie,

tandem

attachment

Seam

stitch

specification.,

range.,

recommended

four

thread.,

gathering

or

smocks.,

intermittent

for

shirring.

specification.,

75

mm);

stitch

Maximum

thread.,

or

medium

shirring

smocks.,

intermittent

Gathering

504-SSa-1;

per

inch;

6000

thread.,

or

medium

shirring

smocks.,

intermittent

for

shirring.

8-2 0 per

speed

medium

shirring

nightgowns

differential

Gathering

512

-SSa range

recommended

on

nightgowns

differential

standard

cam

adjusted

R.P.M.

on nightgowns differential

Gathering

504-SSa-1;

inch;

6000

to

heavy

on

woven

and

feed.

ratio

-1;

standard

..

8-20

to

heavy

woven

ratio

to

up

heavy

woven

cam

R.P.M.

duty

and

knit

similar

Independent

up

per

speed

duty

and

feed.

machine,

knit

similar

Slotted

materials

garments.

presser

to 3 to 1 depending

width

main

and

feed.

standard

adjusted

of

seam

and

duty

and

machine.,

knit

similar

Independent

ratio

up

main

machine.,

materials

garments.

differential

materials

garments.

to 3 to 1 depending

width

and

for

such

Knee

swing-out

to 3 to 1 depending width inch;

6000

of

seam

cam

R.P.M.

from

adjusted

for

seaming

on

1/8

inch

for

seaming

swing-out

of _seam

differential

seaming

as

dresses.,

press

pressure

on

left

main

such

Knee

foot

stitch

(3.17

feeds.

such

Knee

3/16

and

con-

stitch

needle

and

as

to

as

4

STYLES

OF

MACHINES

(Continued)

39500

intermittently aprons, tandem ment specification, (6. Maximum

39500

RT intermittently fabrics controlled stitch Gathering 504 10-20 speed

TJ parts,

ments. sweaters Thumbscrew width and

RL

Two

lingerie,

intermittent

for

75

mm);

Single

where a 3/32

tongue.

EFe-1

per

6000

Single

for

Can

of

seam

differential

needle

shirring.

stitch

recommended

needle

tandem ratio

inverted;

inch;

R.

needle

seaming

be

and

four

gathering

smocks,

differential

Gathering

512-SSa-1;

range,

gathering

intermittent

Independent

up

to

cam

P.

M.

three

bulky

used

similar

adjustable

1/8

inch

feeds.

thread,

or

8-20

speed

three

adjusted

for

thread,

or

inch

2. 5 to 1 depending

standard

thread,

knit

attaching a reinforcing

garments;

differential

(3.17

Maximum

medium

shirring

nightgowns

feed.

ratio

standard

shirring (2.

swing-out

main

mm);

up

per

inch;

5500

medium

38

mm)

differential

width

and

medium

sweaters,

tape

feed.

stitch

recommended

on

R.P.M.

on

to

heavy

woven

and

similar

Independent

to 5 to 1 depending

width

of

automatically

of

cam

to

all

types

turned

feed.

pressure

on

seam

differential

to

heavy

Se.

am

range,

duty

and

knit garments. swing-out

seam

adjusted

heavy

down

stitch

3/32

heavy

from

duty

of

cotton,

hem

Presser

plate

length.

inch

feeds.

duty

knit

outerwear

tape

used

guided

specification,

8-20

speed

machine,

materials

Knee

pressure

on

left

main

per

6000

and

machine,

dacron,

is

desired.

foot

attachment

Seam

(2.

38

Maximum

machine

on

by

inch;

R.P.M.

for

seaming

such

as

press

plate

stitch

has a short

mm);

shoulder

slot

504-SSa-1;

length.

needle

differential

with

and

cam

17 /

for

seaming

rayon

Knee

for

specification,

stitch

recommended

straight

similar

in

presser

adjusted

and

dresses,

controlled

attach-

Seam

64

inch

feeds.

and

silk

press

curler

shirring.

range,

knife gar-

seams

standard

of

foot.

main

39500

TK ions undergarments,

materials both differential left and

TM intermittently aprons, tandem ment specification, 8-20 speed

TT intermittently aprons, tandem

ment

specification

8-20

speed

Two

needle

on

coat

linings,

of

needles.

feeding. needle differential

for

per

for

per

17/64

Single

5500

Single

6000

needle

lingerie,

intermittent

shirring. inch;

R.P.M.

needle

lingerie,

intermittent

shirring.

504-SSa-1;

inch;

R.

four

thread,

pockets~

and

similar

cotton,

Thumbscrew

feeds.

gathering

504-SSa-1;

cam

gathering

cam

P.

wool,

Seam

inch

(6.75

three

smocks,

differential

Gathering adjusted

three

smocks,

differential Gathering

adjusted

M.

Maximum

medium

bathing

garments

silk

adjustable

specification,

mm);

thread,

or

shirring

nightgowns

ratio

standard

main

thread,

or

shirring

nightgowns

standardwidthof

main

suits,

and

synthetics.

stitch

recommended

medium

on

feed.

up

width

and

medium

on

and

feed.

ratio

Independent

up

and

to

heavy house

of

medium

feed

which

514-SSa-1;

range,

to

woven

and

similar

Independent

to 5 to 1 derending

of

seam

differential

to

woven

similar

to 3 to 1 depending

seam

differential

duty

dresses, Upper

allows

6-20

speed

heavy

and

3 16

heavy

and

garments.

3/16inch

machine

to

heavy

standard

per

6000

duty

knit

materials

garments.

swing-out

inch

feeds.

duty

knit

materials

swing-out

feeds.

children's

weight

looper

either

width

inch;

R.

machine,

Knee

pressure

on

stitch

(4.

76

Maximum

machine,

Knee

pressure

on

stitch

(4.76

Maximum

for

seaming

thread reverse

cam

P.

M,

for

such

press

mm);

for

such

press

mm);

operat-

wear,

woven

is

of

adjusted

seaming

as

plate

length.

stitchrange

recommended

seaming

as

plate

length.

stitch

recommended

ladies

knitted

caught

or

forward

seam

controlled

from main

and

dresses,

controlled

attach-

Seam

and

dresses,

attach-

Seam

range,

by

39500 maximum operation machine sary

to

MARK IV

rated

may

running

reduce

machines

speeds.

necessitate

cycle

the

and a longer

machine's

SPEED

have

Varied

operating

speed

RECOMMENDATION

been

field

than

by

tested

conditions,

at a lower

recommended

10-15%.

5

in

their

severity

speed.

stitch

complete

and

cleanliness

When

operating

length, it

stitch

range

of

from

may

at

their

the

sewing

50-100%

be

neces-

The

MARK

IV

is a precision maximumperformancea mum readjustment

recommended

of

precision

speed

SPEED

the

machine

for

mechanisms.

RECOMMENDATION

manufactured

should

the

first

2 0

days

and

be

operated

of

OILING

(Continued)

tested

at

field

operation.

sewing

1000

R.P.M.

machine.

below

This

will

To

obtain maxi-

minimize

CAUTION! filled A

should

before

straight

be

Machine

sight

gauge

lines

Machine main

when no

It

have

reservoir

To

maintain

operating

case

The

should

oil

is a magnetic

entered

Each

deontes

the

number,

in

thousandths

size

number

packaged

beginning

mineral

used.

is

on

front

when

is

continuously,

oil

drain

the

UNION

kind

stamped

of

represent

and

sold

Oil

was

drained

to

operate.

oil

of a Saybolt

filled

machine

with

of

machine.

is

automatically

filled.

Check

maximum

remain

plug

screw

crank

in

screw

designed

case.

SPECIAL

of

shank,

on

the

an

inch,

by

Union

needle

the

point,

complete

from

Oil

machine

capacity

viscosityof

oil

at

spring

Red

bulb

stationary.

lubricated.

oil

daily

before

recommended

the

oil

must

machine

is

located

to

It

should

for

accumulate

NEEDLES

needle

has

both

length,

shank,

midway

between symbol

Special

•

cap

on

No

speed

be

more

at

back

be

removed

type

groove,

denotes

whichis

when

of

Class

90

to

in

top

oil

level

oiling the

morning

and

changed

than

of

machine

possible

and

finish

largest

shank

shipped,

39500

125

cover.

is

seconds

Oil

indicator

is

necessary,

start;

serviceability

at

least

one

year.

near

foreign

and

cleaned

size

number.

and

other

diameter

and

eye.

given

Collectively,

on

the

so

reservoir

eight

should

add

every

bottom

at

100°

level

other

of

to

oil

this six

nine

is

show

than as

edge

materials

periodically.

The

type

details.

of

blade,

label

of

must

ounces.

Fahrenheit

checked

between

keeping

required.

equipment

months.

of

base.

which

may

number

The

size

measured

type

all

and

needles

be

at

In

Class needle while numbers,

Type 154

No.

GAS

for

the

standard

description

39500 Styles

Round struck 055/022,

110/044, 125/049, 140/054,

154

GBS

Round struck 070/027, 075/029,

To

have

sample

on

needle,

label. A complete

Selection

should

pass

freely

machines

39500

needle

or

of

proper

QS,

needle

and

use a curved

QT, RD,

for

Style

sizes

39500

available

blade

RL,

RT

of

Description

shank,

groove,

round

spotted,

point,

curved

chromium

065/025, 070/027, 075/029,

150/060.

shank,

groove,

round

spotted,

point,

curved chromium

080/032.

orders

the

type

order

through

promptly

and

would

needle

size

read:

size

number

is

eye

and

"1000

determined

in

order

6

needle.

TJ,

TK,

is

Type

the

recommended

and

blade,

plated

blade,

plated

accurately

should

Needles,

to

The

standard

TM

and

TT

154

GBS.

Below

needles.

Sizes

standard

and

length, is

080/032, 090/036,

standard

filled,

be

forwarded.

Type

by

size

length,

and

154 GAS,

of

is

an

thread

produce a good

recommended

is

Type

are

single

available

double

available

empty

Use

Size

used.

stitch

154

GAS,

the

type

groove.

in

sizes

100/040,

groove,

in

sizes

package,

description

070/

027

Thread

formation

a

11

•

NEEDLES

(Continued)

Succesa

use

of

needles

reputation

more

than

Release

Fig. 1 or

ting

direction wrench turn.

left.

Again

To

replace

insert position. nut.

Return

After through eyelet. front that

the through third

through tension front

thread

in

the

packaged

for

producing highest

three-quarters

pressure

lA)

and

until

No.

21388

turn

handwheel

needle.

needle

turn

handwheel

presser

thread

back back

lower the

discs

hole

it

is

and

looper

upper

the

(J),

lower

guide

operation

on

swing

needle

AU.

furnished

in

holder

arm

comes

of

thread

threaded

then

through

thread

hole

back

hole

through

(M).

of

UNION

under

our

of a century.

CHANGING

presser

is

at

its

until

leave

needle

until

(U)

holder

to

position;

THREAD

from

cones

eyelet

through

the

is

threaded

to

front,

back

to

tension

brand

quality

foot

arm

lowest

with

needle

holder

it

rests

is

STAND

on

(B).

the

lower

second

front.

post

SPECIAL

name.~®·

needles

NEEDLES

by

turning

(U)

out

point

machine.

is

at

against

again

re-lock

(504

cone then

upper

holes

through

All

slot

in

of

position.

of loosen

high

at

its

presser STITCH)

support down holes

from

the

three

(K)

in

machines

materials

presser

travel.

needle

position;

position

stop

low

pin.

point

(A.

through

of

tension

back

tension

the

middle

threads

tension

can

foot

Turn

Using

withdraw

and.,

Keeping

of

foot

release

Fig. 1 ).

the

thread

to

front.

thread

hole

then

post

be

secured which and

release

is

workmanship

bushing

handwheel

hexagonal

clamp

nut

needle.

with

the

needle

travel;

bushing

it

is

front

hole

guide

It

should guide

front

continue

(G)

and

only

backed

in

opera-

socket

about

flat

to

in

then

tighten

(AG).

brought

of

thread (C) be

noted

(C

).

to

back

between

on

through

by

for

(AG.

1/4

the

this

up

from

first

and

the

a

After

are

threaded

the

middle

come through holes back post

to

slot

NOTE:

refer

Only

lA).

Parts

It

quence

third.

The

the

threading Fig. to

1.

the

thread

from

the

of

tension

front.

(K)

Refer

to

Fig.

parts

will

of

threading

The

right.

comes

through

bar

and

the

cones.

two

outside

thread

The

in

tension

to

Fig. 1 for

lA

for

involved

are

placed

simplify

of

two

additional

THREAD

from

the

back

through

holes

guide

threads

post

threading

in

their

the

threading

lower

in

looper

Fig. 1 and

needle

STAND (512 AND

cones

bar

of

the

center

holes

of

the

(C)

front

continue

(G)

and

threading

Styles

threading

relative

of

first.

Fig.

threads

in

Fig.

on

cone

the

of

front

to

between

on

Styles

39500

support

thread

holes

the

middle

bar.

back

through

39500

RD,

of

Next and the

front

THREADING

are

shown

positions

these

in

lA

upper

lA

Fig.

moves

machines

looper

are the

lA

as

the

514

(A,

eyelet

the

front

bar

it

then

tension

thread

QS,

RL

and

in

threading

for

clarity.

to

same.

compared

lower

STITCH)

Fig.

lA),.

(B)

from

bar.

from

is

threaded

through

discs

guide

QT,

RT,

TK.

follow

second.

the

to

looper

the

back

The

back

to

through

the

lower

(J).

through

(M).

TJ,

diagrams

the

recommended

and

needle

only

difference

one

needle

thread

needle to

front.

looper

front

the

holes

TM

and

(Fig. 1 and

or

thread

tension

threads

under

threads

and

then

upper

from

tension

TT,

se-

needles

will

post

or

be

in

7

THREADING

(Continued)

Before

direction

turning

Be

the

tension

should

different

Fig. 1 or 1

or

off guide the looper

1

or thread both

in

assembly tube thread

be

Double

lA)

(AF).

(T).

way

can

Thread

lA).

through

eyes

front

assembly

through

beginning

until

presser

sure

the

discs

positioned

threads

end

lA).

from

Lead

Turn

to

the

be

upper

Turn

of

upper

of

looper

(AA

)g

needle

foot

release

threads,

(J)

and

as

indicated

of

thread

Then

right

thread

left;

threaded

to

handwheel

then

looper

handwheel

auxiliary

looper

thread

lead

(AA).

upper

to

thread,

(X)

in

so

the

lead

left.

behind

thread

easily

thread

Pull

looper

is

in

bushing

as

they tension tension

in

TO

THREAD

and

lead

it

through

NOTE:

fabric

in

operating

through

if

TO

THREAD

thread

until

looper

pull-off

under

thread

eye

swing

high

come

Fig. 1 and

tweezers

through

point

thread

eyelet

from

position,

(AG),

post

it

through

both Thread guard

of

(N)

(AF).

neck

out

cloth

from

both

bottom

front

plate

and

the

slot

(K)

slot

will

lA.

LOWER

the

eyes

direction

UPPER

upper

eyelet

from

After

of

(S)

are

left

top

of

must

and

eyes

in

eyelet

cover

to

open, release swing

tension

in

tension

be

LOOPER

right

lower pass through until

from

left

LOOPER

looper

(P)

from

left

to

pulling

of

tube;

back.

turn

pressure

presser

thread

at

the

eyelet

looper

in

front

hole

heel

left

hand.

of

front

(W)

back

right.

up

casting

push

handwheel

on

arm

(U)

guide

post

(G).

approximate

of

front

thread of

looper

of

frame

of

lower

to

right.

thread

is

all

to

NOTE:

upper

and

tube

Left

the

front,

Thread

looper

down

down,

presser

out

(C

),

The

tension angle

thread

eyelet

thread

looper

eye

guide

way

then

through

in

operating

of

position.

are

between

guide

(R,

(V)

of

(M,

left.

through

must

thread

then

foot

posts

for

the

(M,

Fig.

pull-

thread

is

all

lower

Fig.

Lead

pass

tube

thread

insert

by

CAUTION!

ing

from

Thread

Fig. 1 or

est

position. needle hole

THREAD

regulated threads rmation.

PRESSER

ly

or lock

ing pressure, been position

(.

79

locking

thread

or

The

Sufficient

should

decrease

nut

screw

properly

to

1. 59

nut

tube

assembly

needle

lA).

holes

TENSION

amount

by

should

FOOT

be

(A,

Turn

Insert

eyelet

in

tension

presser

maintained.

amount

Fig. has a right loosening

set,

locking

mm)

(C

).

Be

sure

thread

handwheel

needle

(AD),

top

cover

of

tension

nuts

be

only

enough

PRESSURE

foot

of

2)

and

hand

decreases

tighten

nut

(C)

from

the

upper

to

upper

TO

through

thread

under

needle

on

(D,

pressure

Should

pressure

turn

adjusting

thread

lock

so

that

top

looper

THREAD

middle

in

operating

or

neck

thread

needle

Fig.

to

secure

it

be

on

so

pressure.

nut

its

under

surface

thread

eye.

THE eyelet

direction

threads

of

top

eyelet

and

looper

1

or

lA).

proper

to

feed

work

necessary

presser

screw

tightening

When

(A).

With

surface

of

adjusting

is

under

NEEDLE

or

from

cover

threads

Tension

stitch

uniform-

to

foot,

(B).

increases

pressure

presser

is

lower

eyelets

until

right

casting;

(AC).

increase

loosen

Adjust-

approximately 1 /32

screw

looper

of

needle

to

left,

Thread

is

on

fo-

adjusting

foot

(B).

front

through

and

then

needle

I

resting

Set

thread

(X)

when

thread

is

at

both

down

from

Fig.

screw

on

throat

to 1 /16 inch

cap

(D)

pass

guide

its

high-

eyes

through

front.

2

(B)

plate,

against

-

(M,

of

has

8

li]

Tension

(I

Tension Spring Fe

II

Tension Spring

[!]

Te

nsion

ll)

spring

n

Tension

(3

Tension

n

Tension

[i

Tension

Shield ...

Nut

Post

~

Discs Post

Slot.·

Disc

Felt·-._

Thread

----/

-:-

.:--_

·. --.

Guide

rrule

~·

-:

---

I

~

~"~

--

m Thread

ltcr..'\\

Eyelet

------

B Cone Support

mJ

Front

rmUpper

(I

Auxiliary

l3

Lowcr Loop er

m Fabric Guard

D

Framc

Thread

m

Presser

Thread

Looper

Guide

Arm

Guide

Thread

Thr

Thread

Bracket

----

Eyel

ead

Eyel

et

Eyelet

et

Needle

Thread

~

Upper

m

Lower

Top

Thread

Upper

Tube

Looper

Cover

Eyelet

Loop er

Assembly

504

STITCH

FOR

STYLES

39500

QS,

QT,

RT,

TJ,

TM

and

9

TT

Fig.

1

li]

lj

IJ [!]

ll)

Tension

Tcnsion

T

nsion

sprin

g Shield

Nut

Spring

Spring Post

Fer

~

--f.J.-ITT~

~

Q.

'\1

O Tcnsion

13

Tension

n

Tension

Discs ·----.

Post

Slot ·.

Disc

Felt

lfl

Upper

(I

Auxiliary

i:9

Lower

D

Frame

Thread

m

Presser

FOR

Looper

Guide

Arm

512

STYLES

514

FOR

STYLE

Thread

Looper

Thread

STITCH

39500

STITCH

Eyelet

Thread

Eyelet

RD

39500

Eyelet

and

TK

RL

Needle

Thread

~Upper

m

Lower

Fig.

Top

Upper

Looper

lA

Cover

Thread

Looper

Tube

Eyelet

Assembly

10

FEED

ECCENTRICS

Feed

eccentrics approximately feed

Style ploded

39540 of

stitches

eccentric

B-4.

obtainable

39500

views

Generally

of

stitches

give

the

produced;

proper

Following

5,

6,

7,

BM

40.

Only

be

ordered

suffixed

chip suggested

two

to

Before

guard,

separately. indicate

assembling

sequence:

14

is

No.

Minor

QS

will

in

catalog

speaking,

differential

stitch

9,

10.

eccentrics

ASSEMBLING

upper

used

stitches

in

per

39540

numbers

when

be

using

shipped

for

eccentrics

the

differential

or

number

11. 12. 13, are

To

order

number

knife

of

and

adjusting

assembly,

Style

39500

inch. B-14 of

while

the

that

with

main

(right

gathering

feed

14,

supplied

aneccentric,

stitches

AND

QS

It

will that

part

symbol

eccentric.

above

combination

furnished

hand)

(left

hand)

action.

eccentrics

15,

16,

with

each

desired.

ADJUSTING

sewing

lower

knife

machines

be

noted

of

the

indicate

Unless

on

feed

are

18,

20. 22.

machine.

use

No.

Example:

SEWING

parts,

remove

holder

have that

differential

been

the

selected

part

feed

approximately

otherwise

of

other

styles

eccentric

available

24, 26,

eccentrics.

specified,

of

determines

is

under

28,

Additional

39540 B with a minor

"39540

PAR

cloth

B-14".

TS

plate,

assembly,

to number eccentric

the

Refer

machines.

the

selected

No.

39540

30. 32, eccentrics

fabric

then

follow

produce

of

main

is

No.

number

machine

to

ex-

number

so

as

to

B-4.

34,

36,

may

number

guard,

this

Fig

is

athighposition,

(12.

70

mm)

39500 Styles 39 settin needle by screw

QS,QT,RT,TM

500

g s

hould

or

loosening

and

. 3

above

RD.

be

set

the

clamp

remove

CLOTH CAUTION:

the with

bled.

stud

turn

machine

towards

ly

that

SETTING

bled

should

of needlepoint throat

RL

31/64

height

plate

&

TT;15/32inch(ll.91

and TJ. For

inch

above

screw

throat

plate.

PLATE

When

cloth

which

plate

the

cloth

In

assembly,

are

tightened

in

cloth

with

the

collapses

only

the

plate

plate.

the

rear.

cloth

THE

Withthroatplate

in

position,

center

needle

should (A,

in

slot.

be

Fig.

Style

(12.

30 mm).

the

throat

(C ).

After

REMOVAL

removing

stud

locking

stud

the

to

the

The

flat

and "V"

Stud

the

plate

NEEDLE

assem-

the

front

When

set

1/2

4)

for

mm

39500

TK

To ali

plate,

needle

has

(C)

and

cloth

point

cloth

locking

body

will

needle

end

needle

inch

Styles

}for

the

gn

move

been

AND

the

cloth

screw

cloth

plate

of

plate

slot

screw

of

the

turn

needle

set

ASSEMBLY

plate

(B)

plate

screw

and

(A,

lift

screw

and

removing

is

then

of

the

(B)

stud

when

assembled

cloth

is

tightened

to

the

opening

F

driving

properly,

Fig.

up

the

all

plate

ig.

arm

tighten

3)

cloth

(D ).

cloth

play

screw

or

4

(B,

loosen

plate

assem

plate

and

yet

to

the

stud

(C)

secure

(D)

so

closing.

Fig.

4)

clamp

-

11

If

needle laps looper looper in

into stroke, center

looper

pull-off

needle

At

this

bar

of

thread

set

21225-1/8. On

Styles

at

left

end

(1.

59

mm) using lower

nut

looper looper

(C ). Now

thread

driving

point,

(B).

With

looper

needle

on

Styles

39500

of

its

to

the

gauge

deflecting

assemble

cam

pull-off

screw,

arm.

insert

lower

point

(Fig.

39500

RD,

RL

stroke,

left

No.

SETTING

pull-off

(B ).

back.

be

sure

lower

looper

1 / 8

inch

6),

using

QS.

QT,

and

TK,

set

looper

of

center

21225-1/16.

needle

differential

THE

(A.

separate

When to

take

looper

at

left

(3.

looper RT,

with

point

line

of

or

needles.

(front)

NEEDLE

Fig.

5)

by

over-

moving

retightening

up

end

(A,

Fig.

end

1 7

mm)

gauge

TJ,

TM & TT.

lower

left

Do

looper

1 /

16 needle,

not

Tighten

feed

(Continued)

play

6)

of

its

from

No.

inch

have

dog.

Fig.

5

to

the

8)

until face Fig.

Now

right,

the

Fig.

finish

needle

its

6

lower

point

another • 002-.

6)

securely.

looper

should

springs

004

SETTING

7

).

When

off

rear

as

close

ing. needle there guards

adjustment.

be

set

forward

inch

(.

051-.102

THE

Assemble

lower

needle

as

possible

Screw

(D)

guard.

is

no

and

differential

SETTING

Set

rear

possible.

looper in

•

002-.

to

or

position

004

set

rear interference looper.

SETTING

As

into

the

needle

from

rear

mm).

FRONT

front

needle

looper

guard.

set

to

is

used

After

to

this

interference

THE

REAR

needle

without

movement

to

deflect

inch

(.

051-.102

needle

between

THE

lower

LOWER

looper

scarf

needle

Tighten

NEEDLE

guard

is

springing

front

needle

without

adjust

setting

between

feed

dog.

NEEDLE

guard

interfering

of

lower

needle

guard.

rear

LOOPER

moves

(A,

guard

nut

GUARD

(C.

needle

guard

touch-

and

set

make

needle

(A.

knife

mm). Make

needle

Fig.

sur-

(C.

Fig.

front

sure

GUARD

Fig.

with

holder,

or

needles

Screw

sure

guard

7)

as

either

(B)is

there

and

high

as

lower

but

still

forward

used

is

no

lower

in

or shaft, holder to

3/

RL, (3.17

Fig.

out

if in

32

RT,

mm)

or

it the

inch

TJ,

8

turned

is

not

shaft.

(1.

59

TM

beyond

SETTING

holds

around

already

Locate

to

2.

38

and

TT.

holder.

Insert

upper its

in

upper

mm)

For

THE

upper

looper

shank.

place.

looper

beyond

Style

UPPER

looper

in

Insert

Screw

in

holder

39500

LOOPER

(A,

its

holder,

upper

(C ).

its

holder

(Fig.

TK

Fig.

looper

on

the

12

9)

and

clamp

so

9)

for

shank

in

holder

that

Styles

its

holder.

permits

holds

the

shank

should

Fig.

Screw

it

to

into

upper

the

upper

extends

39500

QS,

extend 1 /8

be

7

pushed

looper looper

1 /

QT.

(B),

16

RD, inch

---

""T'I"

--~

SETTING

When

upper

shank

TM

and

THE

looper

approximately

TT

UPPER

the

upper

holder

(Fig.

9).

LOOPER

looper

should vertical

(Continued)

is

at

the

be

set

on

Styles

right

to

position

end

39500

of

upper

QS,

its

stroke,

looper

QT,RT,

TJ,

Fig.

As

the

heel

of

head

travel; to do 11

QT. NOTE:

tings centerline the TK

with

Next,

check

needle

it

by

represents

RT,

are

settings

the

settings

9

upper

the

upper

1/64

turn

dimensions

and

throat

moving

TM

and

For

Styles

1 / 8

and

are

NOTE:

should vertical., Be looper upper

set lower ance

looper

to

1/32

handwheel

the

TT.

inch

17

/32

9/64

are

inch

plate upper

dimensional

39500

(3.

inch

3/16

dimension 1 /2

looper

chine;

upper After looper in

sure,

upper

(Fig.

moves

should

until

of

(Fig.

looper

RD

17

mm)

(13.

(3.

inch

these

Figure

On

Styles

be

set when on

all

and

casting.

looper

(.40

upper

and

57

(4.

holder

dimension

looper around

eye

10).

toward

pass

to.

looper

11 ).

If

holder

setting

RL.,

to

the

49

mm).

mm)

76

changes

1

O.

39500

to

position

the

styles,

shaft

point with.

the

behind

79

mm)

is

at

resetting

(A.,

for

the

left

For

and

mm)

and

inch

counterclockwise

9/64

holder

its

shank

RD.,

upper

and

point

15/32

(12.

are

looper

there

By

adjusting

byturning

to

cross

002

to

top

of

the

lower

clearance.

the

left

with

is

Fig.

11 ).

Styles

dimensional

of

right

Style

inch

39/64

70

mm)

inch

to

the

made.,

slightly

RL

and

TK

looper

is

at

is a clearance

looper

the

lower

• 004

inch(.

its

stroke,

looper

end

of

its

respect

necessary.,

Figure

39500

inch

(3.

left,

needle

(11.

is

looking

57

it

maybe to

QS,

set-

TJ

91

(15.48 increased

mm)

out

maintain

the

upper

shank

right

holder

looper

051-.102

mm)

and

mm).

from

is

increased

of

upper

necessary

the

looper

slightly

end

of

between

around

to

the

Fig.

for

For

by

turning

left

looper

to

condition

back

its

stroke.

in

or

its

left

mm)

.

lO

Style

example,

end

of

by

pulling

turn

holder

heel

out

shank,

of

the

clear-

39500

upper

ma-

shaft. upper

shown

of of

of

Fig.

back and ing ions

SETTING

if

and the teeth

dogs pin

of

rotate

from

of

Figs.

Now

not

already

set

both

same

with a straight

should

(C

).

11

upper

looper

left

end

10,

THE

assemble

on

feeds

plane.

now

This

looper.,

a

short

of

11.,

FEED

differential

machine.

so

This

edge.

be

leveled

raises

When

quickly

when

upper

nee needle

machine.

12.

DOGS

the

can

Check

between

pull

distance

Assemble

top

be

Now with

or

upper

looper

lowers

the

correct

as

follows:

looper

downstroke.

surfaces

checked

and

setting

upper

out

counterclockwise.,

Reset

(front)

main

assemble throat

the

eye

needle

to

looper of to

feed

of

by

sighting

plate

back

13

setting

As

upper

centers

should

avoid

and

If

needle

its

holder

maintain

dog

(A.,

(back)

the throat

feed

teeth

surface

end

is

looper

interfere-

needle

rubs

slightly

dimens-

Fig.

dog

all

across

plate.

by

of

both

obtained.,

on

the

align

on

the

look-

13) (B)

lie

in

the

Feed

rotating

feed

is

moving

needle,

exactly

feed

bars

it

can

(Fig.

tilting

at

the

to

the

Fig.

be

checked

the

eyes

12).

12 adjusting

same

right., of

the

time.

plate. teeth

set

slightly point be

the

an

integral

The

Screw

rise

of

depth

feed

about

higher

travel

part

dogs

(D)

of a full

3 / 64

the

should

locks

if

top

of

the

SETTING

be

feed

tilting inch desired.

tooth

of

main

the

(1.

teeth

above

set 19

On

feed

THE

level

adjusting

mm)

Style

on

the

dog.

FEED

at

the

above

39500 main

throat

OOGS time

throat

TK

and

plate.

(Continued)

teeth

in

plate.

with

differentialfeed

place.

the

The

first

Now

The

feed

chaining

appear differential

set dogs

dogs

feed

above

feed

at

dog

dogs feed

their

(A,

is

the

may

highest

B)

made

throat

so

that

be

should

as

SETTING

Replace

sembly.

should with ments

screw Lower against adjustment of

in

(B) port also with

throat

trim

Lower

any

and

bracket. serves nut

be

are

which

upper

is

position

locking

THE

lower

Lower

set

with

plate

made

knife

is

changed.

knife

as

(C)

even

LOWER

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cutting

surface.

with

hexagonal

holds

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spring

knife,

necessary

may

by

tightening

nut ( C)

Because

latch

when

KNIFE

holder

(A.,

edge

lower

so

no

when

be

against

screw

for

screw

as

Fig.

pressed

14)

flush

Adjust-

head

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lateral

width

secured

screw

sup-

(B)

the

cloth

is

not

SETTING

(D.,

(F) Upper that

(.

40

the

-

plate

tightened

Replace

Fig.

in

its

knife

the

guarding

mm)

top

surface

C

latch

THE

upper

14)

in

most

chain

behind

spring.,

against

UPPER

knife

position.,

clockwise

guard

section

the

cutting

of

the

upper

Fig.

it

lower

KNIFE

assembly.

setting

position

(G)

is

approximately

edge

knife.

13

should

knife

nut

against

should

and

always

holder.

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(E)

to

be

positioned

in

be

upper

hold

upper

1 / 64

contact

locked

knife

clamp

knife.

so

inch

with

At

the

screw bottom than

holding block.

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After

Fig.

located

of

its

inch

the

block

14

on

the

stroke.,

(.40

upper

should

right

the

mm)

knife

be

side

front

below

has

locked

upper mm)

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trim.,

knife setting

For

bly.

to

cutting

the

been

in

place

knife

below

screw

holding

when

Style

Clamp

hold

edge

cutting

set

for

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upper

(H)

block

upper

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of

edge

the

using

14

of

extend

edge

knife

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(J)

knife

39500

knife

clamp

the

of

proper

the

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the

screw

its

stroke,

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of

lower

has

been

be

tightened

in

place.

is

replace

in

against

knife

lower

width

front

less

knife.

set

This

replaced.

upper

position.,

the

upper

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knife.

of

trim.,

at

the

than

for

to

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front

cutting

1 / 64

proper

lock

simplify

knife

knife.

extend

the

upper

of

the

edge

inch

width

the

assem-

the

At

not

holding

of

(.

40

of

upper

re-

Allen

the

less

knife

SETTING

THE

STITCH

LENGTH

Length (left) (right)

of

eccentric

stitch

(A.

(B)

Fig.

is

determined

Fig.

15)

actuates

15

by

actuates

the

main

the

combination

differential

(rear)

sure careful nut curely.

thrust

main

washer move and

(E

hind draw move ly

SETTING

feed

In

(C)

To

eccentric

Using

).

supplied

eccentric

during

of

feed

(front)

feed

dog.

assembling

hubs

not

and

are

to

damage

washer

change

finger

frame

(D)

nut

(M).

from

(H)

hooked

eccentric.

handwheel

extraction.

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eccentrics

dog;

feed

facing

used.

while

eccentrics.

each

shaft

(D)

and

feed

(L)

eccentric,

from

its

Remove

end

of

shaft

from

(A)

will

stud

now

(J).

slip

eccentric

with

machine,

(B)

as

It

may

back

shown

be

necessary

and

forth

DIFFERENTIAL

the

other.

or

key.

tighten

remove

seat

nut

(C)

(G).

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off.

extractor

reach

and

slight-

RA

Outer

inner

be

Be

Use

se

on

the

and

Re-

(K)

be

with-

TIO

-

to

Differential screw 39500

lever

on

QS,

The

(A.

position

and a lower ment feed

one

tension tion moving

between

action.

On

Styles

adjusting

post

increases

the clockwise Now obtain feed. stops sewing

NOTE: hold ential

set

the

On

may

requirement.

After

in

this

feed

Styles

QT,

RD,

Fig.

16)

stop.

these

39500

thumbscrew

assembly)

upper

turn

lower

required

Styles

be

reversed

lower

position

dog

does

feed

action

39500

RL,

of

the

is

governed

The

amount

two

TJ

the

differential

stop

acts

in a reverse stop intermittent

39500

stop and not

is

obtainable

TJ

and

TK

RT,

TM

and

differential

by

of

lever

stops

and

determines

TK

rotating

(located

in a clockwise

action

(B)

down. a counter-

screw

(C)

differential

TJ

and

TK

to

meet

screw

turn

strike

a

has

handwheel

the

throat

and

two

TT.

control

an

upper

move

near

direc-

manner.

so

as

the

two

specific

been

in

thru

micrometer

-

the

by

to

set.

push

operating

plate.

the

use

of

one

adjusting

differential

direction

micrometer

screws

Fig.

16

control

to

be

sure

adjusting on

lever

the

Styles

down.

differ-

On

controlled

an

upper

an

adjusting

Styles

39500

by

the

(B)

and a lower

thumbscrew

QS.

QT,

movement

stop

rod

RD,

of

(C

(Fig.

RL,

RT,

the

differential

).

but

16A).

on

TM

these

and

control

TT

the

machines

15

differentialfeed

lever

(A.

both

Fig.

stops

action

16A)

are

is

between

moved

also

by