Feed-off-the-arm, 4-needle “Flatseamer” for
Top and Bottom Coverstitch
Minute-quantity
®
36200 Series
lubrication
ENGINEER’S MANUAL
40040898
No.E373-00
Introduction
This Engineer’s Manual is written for the technical personnel who are responsible for the service and maintenance of the machine.
The maintenance services to be done on this sewing machine should be based on this manual.
This manual gives the "Standard Adjustment" on the former section under which the most basic adjustment
value is described and on the latter section the "Results of Improper Adjustment" under which stitching errors
and troubles arising from mechanical failures and "How To Adjust" are described.
(Standard needle count)
Retainer needles to be used
8
(Standard needle count)
9No. of threads used6 pcs.5 pcs.7 pcs.
10Feed control system
11Lubrication
12Quantity of oil storage
13Lubricating oil
14Installation system
15Lifting amount of presserOne side trim type 8.0mm, both side trim type 6.0mm
16Minute presser liftingProvided as standard
17Needle thread silicone tankProvided as standard
18External dimensionsHeight 31.5mm x Width 25.5mm x Depth 42.5mm
19Weight of head22kg
20Working temperature/humidityTemperature : 5°C to 35°C, Humidity : 35% to 85% (no condensation)
21Supply voltage/frequencyRated voltage ±10% 50 / 60Hz
Main feed ----- Slide type stitch pitch control system
Differential feed ------------Lever control system
Rotary pump type auto lubrication (minute-quantity lubrication to needle bar and looper sections)
Union Special Specification 175 (equivalent to ISO VG22) or
Table and Aux. Drive mounting system
4-needle one side trim
fancy sewing
Front oil storage: 70ml to 80ml
Rear oil storage: 60ml to 70ml
JUKI Oil SUP2000 – 1L
Pedestal mounting system
For light-weight (swimsuits)
materials
5-needle both side trim
fancy sewing
1.6 to 1.8mm (standard 1.6mm)
* For standard usage in Japan, the needle count is [Standard 65/#9]. The needle count for retainer needles is [Standard 60/
#8].
– 1 –
2. List of models
The standard models are the lapseamers with 4 needles and 6 threads for vertical fancy stitch.
According to the model names, they are classified into specifications for the specific gauges, step gauges, taping,
and multi-purpose.
Model nameApplicationTop fancyKnifeLapformer
General knit goods
36200L100-52416With
Light- and medium-weight
materials
Number of
needle
Retainer
needle
Number of
threads
One side trim
Without
36200L100-60General knit goods416With
General knit goods
36200L200-52416With
36200L200-6046With
36200L202-52boxer's briefs, etc.)416With
36200L202-60boxer's briefs, etc.)416With
Light- and medium-weight
materials
General knit goods
1
Light- and medium-weight
materials
Swimsuits0
Specific gauges
(Thigh patch-up for
Medium-weight materials
Specific gauges
(Thigh patch-up for
Medium-weight materials
One side trim
Both side trim
Both side trim
Both side trim
Both side trim
Without
With
With
With
With
1.27mm step gauges
36200L210-52416With
36200L210-60416With
36200T300-52Fly taping415Without
36200T300-60Fly taping415Without
36200U300-52416With
36200U300-60416With
Medium- and heavy-
weight materials
1.27mm step gauges
Medium- and heavy-
weight materials
Multi-purpose
Light- and medium-weight
materials
Multi-purpose
Light- and medium-weight
materials
Both side trim
Both side trim
One side trim
One side trim
Combined use Combined use
Combined use Combined use
With
With
Without
Without
(Caution) The list shows the models exclusive for 4 needles. It does not include the models for 5 needles.
– 2 –
3. Model numbering system
Name: Feed-off-the-arm 4-needle “Flatseamer” for Top and Bottom Coverstitch
123456789101112131415
36200—AA
6 to 9Head specifications
CodeSpecificationsCloth cuttingApplications
L100LapseamOne side trimWith edge guide spreader
L200LapseamBoth side trimWith lapformer spreader
L202LapseamBoth side trimSpecific both side trim gauge lapformer
With spreader
L210LapseamBoth side trim
L220LapseamBoth side trimSpecific 5-needle presser, lapformer
T300TapingCombined use for one sideWithout spreader, tape reel
and both side trimWith tape folder
U300Multi-purposeMulti-purpose specifications
10 to 11Needle gauge
525.2mm
606.0mm
* Head spec. L220 applicable to 60 (6.0mm) only
12Region
JJapan
NNorth America, Europe
SAsia
Combined use for one side
and both side trim
Both side trim 1.27mm, step presser, throat plate, feed dog
Presser barFancy thread carrierDrive lever link
Drive linkTop fancy looperDrive sleeve
Link pinLower knife clamp setscrewMinor presser (Minor presser
Link pin setscrewLower knife clampfor stepped materials)
Drive lever shaft (carrier)Rear spring, leftRear spring, right
Rear spring setscrewLower knife
Fancy thread carrier setscrewRear spring hanger wire
Thread chips guard setscrewFancy looper setscrew
SpringPresser main body
Thread chips guardDrive lever shaft (looper)
– 5 –
5. Needles
(1) Needle types
UNION standard accessory needle GROZ-BECKERT/UY118GKS 070/#10
No.Needle symbolThread grooveScoopStrengthThread available for sewing
1
2
34
UY118GKSWithWeak
UY118GASWithoutStrongSpun thread
UY118GBSFront onlyWithWeakWooly thread
36211
Presence of frontSpun thread, wooly thread,
and reaTetoron thread, cotton thread
Presence of front
and rear
(2) Features of needles
No.Features
The front and rear sides of a needle have thread grooves. It is somewhat more difficult to obtain an
adequate tension for the needle thread, compared with the 118GAS.
1
Since there is a scoop behind the needle, the effect of prevention against stitch skipping can be
expected even for a thread that is inefficient in making loops.
There are thread grooves provided to both the front and rear sides of a needle. The needle thread
tension tends to be increased.
Since no scoop is provided to rear side of the needle, needle bend is minimum at the time of
2
needle entry into the materials. This type of needle is suitable for the products of heavy-weight
materials or those that involve thick sections in materials. (General knit goods, etc.)
Since no scoop is provided, it is not suitable for applications to wooly or Tetoron threads.
Since no thread grooves are provided to the rear side of a needle, the needle thread tension tends to
be decreased. Since there is no thread groove and a scoop is provided to the rear side of the needle,
3
the needle thread can produce loops easily and therefore this type of needle is suitable for applications to wooly threads or the like.
4
If a retainer needle (sacrifice needle) is used, softer switches can be obtained.
(3) Needle applications
No.Applications
1
Used for the products of knit goods and swimsuits.
2
Used for general knit products.
3
Used for ladies’ shorts, girdles, etc., made of stretchy textiles.
4
Used for general products of knit products.
(Caution) Standard needles used in Japan are of UY118GKS•GAS, 065 (#9).
– 6 –
6. How to conduct threading
How to make threading for the needle threads and the top and bottom fancy threads
Threading illustration and threading guard setup
1. When you want to use the flatseamer machine head, you have to mount the threading guard (Assy) .
It can be mounted by means of two setscrews (2 pcs.).
2. 1 to 4 correspond to the needle thread, 5 to the top fancy thread, and 6 to the bottom fancy thread.
Make threading according to the threading illustration.
4
3
2
1
4
3
2
1
5
6
5
5
4
1
2 3
56
6
– 7 –
7. Standard adjustment
(1) Presser removal work
Procedures of assembling
1. To make the standard adjustments of the flatseamer, remove the presser main body first of all.
Main body assembly diagram
Rear side of the presser main body
State of the presser removed
State of the face cover removed
– 8 –
Procedures of assembling
Disassembly procedures for the presser main body
1. Loosen the setscrews (4 pcs.) and take out the face cover .
2. Open the protection cover and take out the needles (5 pcs.) with the needle bars positioned at
the upper dead point.
3. Loosen the upper knife fixing screw (key wrench of 3/8) and remove the upper knife .
4. Loosen the setscrews (2 pcs.) and take out the upper knife fixing block and the upper knife auxiliary
plate .
5. Loosen the presser bar setscrew .
6. Loosen the presser guide left setscrews (key wrench of 5/32) (2 pcs.) and remove the presser guide
left setscrews on the operator side. Make the presser guide left free.
7. Remove the presser pressure adjusting screw and the pressing screw.
8. Loosen the presser bar guide setscrew and remove the presser bar guide and the presser bar
while the presser bar is pulled out upwards.
9. Remove the presser main body .
– 9 –
(2) Adjusting the height of the needle bar
Standard Adjustment
o For a needle gauge of 5.2mm
Mount the right needle on the needle clamp with the needle bar positioned at the upper dead point and
put the needle bar height gauge on the upper face of the throat plate . Check this condition in the
position of 531. The standard needle bar height is 13.5mm.
Use the needle bar height gauge (21227BU).
o For a needle gauge of 6.0mm
Mount the right needle on the needle clamp with the needle bar positioned at the upper dead point and
put the needle bar height gauge on the upper face of the throat plate . Check this condition in the
position of 500. The standard needle bar height is 12.7mm.
Use the needle bar height gauge (21227DS).
Needle gauge : 5.2mm
13.5mm
Needle gauge : 6.0mm
12.7mm
– 10 –
Adjustment ProceduresResults of Improper Adjustment
1. Remove the face cover and loosen the needle bar connecting bracket
setscrew to adjust the needle bar height by the means of the needle
bar height gauge or .
(Caution) When checking the needle bar height, change the needles
and , enter the needles and in the needle
clamps and to their uppermost ends, and stop them
in the correct positions. The needle shank has a flat section. Stop the needle with the flat section positioned in
front.
2. After the adjustment of the needle bar height, adjustment of the needle
array is carried out subsequently . Temporarily fasten the setscrew
of the needle bar connecting bracket .
(Caution) 1. When the needle bar connecting bracket setscrew
is fastened temporarily , the needle bar is required not
to come down even when it is rotated.
2. If the needle bar height is changed for a certain reason, readjustment is needed from the beginning, using the needle bar height gauge or .
When the needle bar height is
greatly different
o This will be a cause of stitch skip-
ping, needle breakage, or thread
breakage.
– 11 –
(3) Adjustment of needle array
Standard Adjustment
1. Needle array
Use the left needle and the retainer needle , and check the needle array based on Line A of the upper
knife .
Apply Line A of the upper knife to the left needle and the retainer needle on both sides. In this state,
the standard angle is that Line B of the upper knife is observed in parallel to Line C of the throat plate
groove.
A line
B line
C line
Right and left revolving
,
A line
B line
C line
– 12 –
Adjustment ProceduresResults of Improper Adjustment
Method of needle array check
1. Checks on the needle array parallelism are carried out after the
completion of needle bar height adjustments.
2. When checking the needle array parallelism, the needle bar is
lowered to the midpoint under the condition that no looper is attached.
3. Make Line A of the upper knife come in contact with the left needle
and the retainer needle on both sides. In this state, check the
parallelism between Line B of the upper knife and Line C of the
throat plate groove.
4. If no parallelism is secured, insert a spanner (7mm/9/32) in the needle
clamp and try to secure the needle array parallelism by turning
the needle bar to the right and left.
(Caution) If checking is intended without the dislodgment of the
looper, do it in the position where the left needle and
the retainer needle do not come in contact with the
rear side of the looper.
5. After the confirmation of parallelism, check the needle bar height
again and fix the needle bar connecting bracket setscrew .
When the needle parallelism is not
secured
o This will be a cause of stitch skip-
ping, needle breakage, thread
breakage, or destruction of throat
plate claws.
– 13 –
(4) Right and left needle entry position adjustments
Standard Adjustment
1. Needle entry
Attach the needles (4 pcs.) and the retainer needle , and check the right and left needle entry spaces
in regard to the throat plate claws .
Examine the position where the left space becomes wider by 0.15mm than the right space. In this state, the
standard position is that the needles (4 pcs.) and the retainer needle (1 pc.), five needles in all, do not
touch the right and left throat plate claws .
Left space wider by
0.15mm
Right and left revolving directions
Right space
Left middle needle
regarded as the basis
Throat
plate
Left direction
– 14 –
Right direction
Adjustment ProceduresResults of Improper Adjustment
Needle entry adjusting positions
1. When adjusting the right and left needle entry, remove the front top
cover and the oil receiver.
2. Loosen the collar setscrew and move the collar toward the
front.
3. Loosen the hexagon coupling bolt and insert a screwdriver in the
eccentric pin . When the screwdriver is turned to the right and left,
the cylinder arm moves to the right and left.
4. Confirm the result of needle entry position adjustments.
5. After adjustments, tighten the hexagon coupling bolt to return the
collar to its initial position. Since then, tighten the collar setscrew
.
Method of confirmation
oTurning the eccentric pin to the right causes the cylinder arm
to move to the left.
oTurning the eccentric pin to the left causes the cylinder arm to
move to the right.
When the needle parallelism is not
secured
o This will be a cause of stitch skip-
ping, needle breakage, thread
breakage, or destruction of throat
plate claws as a result of getting flaws.
– 15 –
(5) Looper adjustment
Standard Adjustment
1) Returning amount of the looper
When the looper is positioned at the leftmost point, adjust the distance to 4mm from the tip of the looper
to the center of the left needle .
The amount of standard looper return is 4mm. However, the amount of return of the looper may somewhat
change according to the type of thread.
The final amount of return of the looper should be determined by making fine adjustments of the amount
of looper return while making threading and observing the stitches of trial sewing.
4mm shall be regarded as the amount of return of the looper during adjustments.
Right and left directions
Tip
Center
4mm (5/32)
Right and left directions
Forward and backward directions
2) Adjustment of a clearance between looper and needle
The standard clearance is 0.0mm (light contact) when the tip of the looper reaches the center of the left
needle .
After rear needle holder adjustments, check the clearance again between the looper and the left needle
. For the final adjustment, this check should be carried out after making threading.
(Caution) 1. If no rear needle holder is provided, the above-mentioned checks should be carried out
in the state that the tip of the looper slightly touches the left needle .
2. The needles to be used come in two types; with a scoop (118GKS) and without a scoop
(118GAS).
Clearance between the looper
and the left needle
– 16 –
0.0mm
(Light contact)
Adjustment ProceduresResults of Improper Adjustment
1) Returning amount of the looper
1. Mount the looper on the looper base and fasten it with the
setscrew .
2. Loosen the looper base setscrew and move the looper base to
the right or left for adjustments.
3. After adjustments, tighten the looper base setscrew .
(Caution) When making adjustments by moving the looper base
to the right or left, the forward and backward positioning of the looper base is also changed.
During the right-left adjustment of the looper base ,
make adjustments of "7.-(5)-2), Adjustment of clearance
between looper and needle" simultaneously by means
of the setscrew .
When the amount of looper return,
changing with the type of thread, is
too much
oTightness of stitches becomes
worse for the left needle thread
and the stitches of thread tension
are degraded.
When the amount of return is small
o This can be a cause of stitch skip-
ping when the looper is re-
treated.
o The needle thread, second from
the right needle, is delayed from
the looper and it comes out si-
multaneously with the right needle
thread. Thus, the stitches of thread
tension are degraded.
o This is a cause of second stitch
skipping as seen from the left
needle .
2) Adjustment of a clearance between looper and needle
1. Loosen the looper base setscrew and turn the setscrew to
adjust the looper base by moving it forward and backward.
2. After adjustments, tighten the looper base setscrew .
o When the looper base is moved to the left, the tip of the looper
is separated from the left needle .
o When the looper base is moved to the right, the tip of the looper
comes in contact with the left needle .
(Caution) After the completion of adjustments in accordance with
"7.-(6) Adjustment of looper and needle bar timing" and
"7.-(7), 7.-(8) Adjustment of looper movement and motion locus", make readjustments, without fail, according
to "2) Adjustment of a clearance between looper and
needle".
– 17 –
(6) Adjustment of looper and needle bar timing
Standard Adjustment
1. Looper and needle bar timing (synchronization)
Synchronization is adjusted after mounting the respective gauge parts. Turn the pulley in the forward direction and adjust the tip of the synchro-gauge rod to the graduation after the needle bar has been
stopped. The standard position is defined when the pulley is turned in the reverse direction and the tip of the
synchro-gauge rod stops at the same graduation for forward pulley rotation after the needle bar has
been stopped.
(Caution) When the pulley is turned in the forward/reverse direction, the standard value is defined if
the obtained figure is different by less than 1 from the graduation of the tip of the synchrogauge rod .
Tip of the synchrogauge rod
Reverse movement
US gauge Part No. 21227CG
Forward movement
Graduation
Thickness:
4mm
(Caution) Installation of the gauge indicated in
the above drawing falls on the new
36200L type. In regard to the installation of the gauge for the former type
36200, installation of the needle bar
torque tool is not required.
Right and left revolving
directions
Forward and backward
directions
(Caution) The main shaft coupling front and rear, and , are provided
with the fitting mark . Gauge check should be carried out after
making adjustments to the fitting mark .
– 18 –
Adjustment ProceduresResults of Improper Adjustment
How to mount and use the synchro-adjust gauge
1. Attach the needle bar torque tool to top of the needle bar and
tighten the setscrew . Then, move the needle bar to the lower
dead point.
2. Mount the gauge base on the presser pressure adjusting spring
and fix the needle bar height adjusting screw just above the
needle bar .
3. Insert the 4mm-thick portion of the synchro-gauge base in between the needle bar and the needle bar height adjusting screw
. Turn the needle bar height adjusting screw until it comes in
contact with the synchro-gauge base . In the state that a dimension (thickness) of 4mm is maintained, tighten and fix the needle bar
height adjusting nut .
4. Remove the synchro-gauge base and mount it on the looper .
Tighten the setscrew . When the pulley is turned in forward direction, the needle bar rises by 4mm and stops there. At this time,
adjust the tip of the synchro-gauge rod to the specified graduation position. (Within the scale range)
5. When the pulley is turned in reverse direction, the needle bar
rises, lowers, and stops. Confirm the graduation position of the tip of
the synchro-gauge rod . If there is any deviation by more than 1
from the graduation position in forward revolution, adjust the main
shaft coupling front and rear, and , respectively.
oIncorrect synchro-gauge position-
ing may cause stitch skipping.
Adjusting positions and method of adjustment
To make timing adjustments for the looper and the needle bar ,
remove the rear top cover and loosen three nuts of the main shaft
coupling front and rear, and , respectively. In the state that the
main shaft coupling rear is held, move the main shaft coupling front
to the right and left to adjust it.
(Spanner 1/4 inches for the nut )
oTurning the main shaft coupling front to the right causes the tip of
the synchro-gauge rod to go backward.
oTurning the main shaft coupling front to the left causes the tip of
the synchro-gauge rod to go forward.
(Caution) To move the main shaft coupling front , temporarily
fasten a nut that is located near the fitting mark during adjustment. If the nut is not fastened temporarily,
position of the tip of the synchro-gauge rod cannot
be made stable.
– 19 –
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