Two Brothers Racing KLX110 User Manual

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Parts List

QTY. DESCRIPTION PART NUMBER

1 MAGURA HYDRAULIC CLUTCH ASSEMBLY N/A
1 CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER N/A
1 THRUST WASHER N/A
1 STAINLESS STEEL CLUTCH LINE N/A
1 HI-TEMP HYDRAULIC FLUID (BOTTLE) N/A

We recommend that this performance engine kit be installed by a quali­fied motorcycle technician. If you have any doubts as to your ability to
install this performance engine kit, please consult with your local
motorcycle dealer. Read all instructions first before starting installation.
Make sure the motorcycle and exhaust system are completely cool
before starting the installation. Also, make sure the bike is secure on
the sidestand or ideally a rear service stand during installation. Be sure
to save all stock components for possible use later.

IMPORTANT - PLEASE READ CAREFULLY

Two Brothers Racing products are intended for closed course competition purposes only, and therefore are sold “as
is” without warranty. Two Brothers Racing specifically disclaims any warranties of merchantability or fitness for a
particular purpose and disclaims all responsibility for consequential and incidental damages or any other losses
arising from the use of these products or parts.

Warranty

1. Make sure the bike is completely cool before starting the
installation. Make sure the bike is secure on the sidestand or
ideally a rear service stand.

2. Drain the engine oil. With the bike on the sidestand,

use a 17mm socket to remove the oil drain plug. Tilt the bike
side to side until all oil has finished draining.

3. Remove the kickstart lever. Remove the Phillips

case screws.

Use a 10mm socket to remove the kickstart
lever. Use either #2 Phillips screwdriver or a hand impact
driver to remove the nine Phillips screws that retain the clutch
cover. If you are installing heavier clutch springs as well (part
# 022-3-05) remove the shift lever with a 10mm socket now.

Do not remove the clutch cover at this time.

4.

Loosen the footpeg bracket mounting bolts.

Using a 12mm socket, just loosen the four mounting bolts
that attach the footpeg mount to the engine case. Four turns
out on each will provide the clearance to remove the clutch
cover, yet still allow the bike to remain on the sidestand.

5.

Remove the clutch cover. Using a rubber mallet or soft-

faced hammer, gently tap the clutch cover from the top and then
the bottom. There are two dowel pins located at 9 o’clock and 3
o’clock so you must alternate tapping from top and then bottom in
order to slide the cover off the pins. Take care not to damage the
cover gasket while doing this. Some more oil may remain at this
point so keep the drain pan under the engine.

6.

Remove existing linkage. Carefully remove all parts of

the OEM clutch linkage. This includes the splined fork on the shift
shaft, the throwout lever it connects to and the triangular throwout
bearing. Next, remove the clutch adjuster bolt from the cover.
Using the 14mm socket, remove the locknut on the outside of the
cover. Then push or carefully tap the bolt with a rubber mallet
until it is clear of the cover. You should now have six separate
parts (including the locknut) removed from the engine. Once the
installation is completed, store the unused parts ina plastic bag.

7. Prepare the clutch cover. Once the loose parts are

removed, you need to inspect the cover. Looking from the out­side, check the adjuster through hole for any sharp edges or
burrs. If there is a sharp edge inside the hole it must be removed.
Using the supplied piece of 120 grit sandpaper, form a cove
around your index finger and place it inside the hole. The sandpa­per cone should contact the sharp edge or burr. Carefully rotate
the sandpaper back and forth several times, checking frequently
to see if you are smoothing the edge down. You can’t really sand
to much, or make the hole too big. After you are sure the hole is
free from any sharp imperfections, clean it with a high flash point
solvent or “contact cleaner” to remove any residue.

8.

Install the mounting bolt. Locate the mounting bolt and

inspect the sealing o-rings. If there is any visible damage at this
time, refer to the section on maintenance. If the o-rings appear
serviceable then apply a generous amount of grease to them as
well as the through hole that was just smoothed and cleaned.
This should prevent any damage to the o-rings as you install the
bolt. With a twisting motion, gently push the mounting bolt into the
cover. If you feel resistance, STOP! The o-ring will easily slide
into the hole if there is no obstruction. Wipe away the grease and

check the hole again. You may need to use the sandpaper and
repeat the procedure once more until the mounting bolt slides
freely. With only minimal hand pressure while twisting, the bolt
should slide right in.

9.

Install the hydraulic cylinder. Open the supplied bottle

of mineral oil and place the cap upside down on your work sur­face. Turn the hydraulic cylinder upside down, placing the project­ing piston inside the cap. With the hole facing up, fill the cylinder
with oil to the top of the threads. Holding the cover with the gas­ket surface down, bring the cylinder to the mounting bolt, and
thread the cylinder on the bolt until snug. Now you can put the
cover on its side and torque the mounting bolt with a 19mm open­en d wrench. Tighten with moderate force until you can no longer
turn the bolt. Be careful not to slip or strop the threads by using
too much force. Do no touch the hydraulic cylinder at this time.

10.

Attach the house and master cylinder. Place the

cover with the gasket side down on your work surface. Locate the
6mm allen screw and copper washer. Place one copper washer
on the mounting bolt, inside the recessed area. Slip the other
washer over the 6mm allen screw. Put the 6mm allen screw into
the banjo fitting and thread into the mounting bolt so the hose is
just behind the oil fill cap. Make sure there is at least an 1/8” gap
between the hose and the cover. With a 6mm allen wrench tight­en the screw until it is tight. The screw doesn’t need much force
to seal; just torque until it no longer turns. The master cylinder
unit can now be attached to the handlebars. Be careful not to
squeeze the lever at this point. Tighten the 8mm screw so that
master cylinder is level to the ground with the bars straight­ahead.

11. Routing the clutch line. Remove the right side tank

shroud. While holding the cover in one hand, route the house
between the frame and engine, staring just below the middle
motormount. Continue running it under the gas tank, up to the
carburetor. Remove the 8mm bolt and metal clamp retaining the
throttle cable. Open the clamp and slide it over the hose and then
the throttle cable. Reinstall the 8mm bolt and check that the hose
and cable can move freely inside the clamp without binding.
Continue routing the hose behind the numberplate and then
thread it on the master cylinder. You only need to tighten the hose
connection just enough to ensure it will not leak.

12.

Bleeding the system. You may want to have another per-

son assist you with this operation. Remove the master cylinder
reservoir cover and fill the reservoir with oil to within 1/8” from the
top edge. Do not fill to the top at this time. Have one person
standing by with the bottle of oil ready to refill the reservoir as
necessary. The other person should hold the clutch cover with the
gasket surface facing down. This will position the slave cylinder
so that air will not be trapped inside. While holding the cover in
one hand, push against the piston until no more bubbles are
pushed out. This can take from 10 to 20 minutes to accomplish.
When squeezing the lever, you should now feel some resistance.
If there is little or no resistance, you need to continue pushing the
piston as there is still air in the system. Once the air is gone you
can install the reservoir cover, inst

all the thrust washer on the

shift shaft and then install the clutch cover. Install the cover

with the bolts only hand tight at this time and remove the oil fill
cap. While looking through the oil fill hole, squeeze the clutch
lever in and out and you should observe the piston and clutch
assembly moving back and forth. This will indicate the system is
bled and ready to proceed.

Installation Instructions

KLX110 Manual Clutch Conversation PAGE 1.qxd

Thrust Washer

13. Reinstall all parts and test. Tighten all the clutch cover screws

to 46 in-lbs. Attach the kickstart lever and tighten. Install the shift lever
and tighten. Tighten the footpeg mounting bolts. Fill the engine with 1
liter of motor oil and replace the fill cap. Check the operation of the shift
lever, brake lever and kickstart lever to in sure they are properly
installed. Adjust as necessary. If the shif

t lever will not move easily,

tap the end of the shaft with a hammer to seat the thrust washer.

With the engine off, check the operation of the manual clutch by shifting
the bike into gear and pushing it forward. With the clutch lever out, the
bike should not toll. Squeezing the lever in should allow it to troll and
releasing it will cause it to stop. This indicates the is ready to start. Start
the engine and check for oil leaks. If there are any, shut off the engine
and fix as needed. You should be able to operate the bike as before,
only now you have the ability to manually disengage the clutch, offering
the rider greater control. After a few minutes of running, shut off the
engine and allow it to cool down. Once it has cooled, check the retighten
all fasteners as necessary. You are now done with the installation.

14.

Maintenance. Before each ride visually inspect the clutch assembly

for proper operation. Check the lever movement for any looseness in the
pivot bolt and tighten as needed. Check the hose for signs of damage or
excessive wear. Replace the hose if necessary. Check for least at the
hose connections and at both the master cylinder and slave cylinder. If
the lever movement feels soft or the clutch does not disengage, check
the fluid level in the master cylinder. Clean the area around the reservoir
lid before removing it. if the fluid has fallen below the half full level, add
fluid up to within 1/8” of the top and pump the lever. If it is still soft or the
clutch does not disengage you will need to bleed the system. Remove
the clutch cover and follow the procedure as described above until no air
is seen bubbling through the fluid. Fill the reservoir to within 1/8” from
the top and replace the lid.

Every 6 months check the fluid level even if it is operating properly.
Normal clutch wear will cause the fluid level to drop and finding this early
will prevent having to bleed the system later. Remove the lever pivot bolt
and apply some waterproof grease to the pivot. This will prevent exces­sive wear and make the lever action smooth again.

Following these guidelines will ensure many years of trouble-free service
from your clutch kit.

KLX110 Manual Clutch Conversation PAGE 2.qxd