NOTE: These materials are for use by trained technicians who are experien ced in th e service an d re pair of outdoo r po wer
equipment of the kind described in this publication, a nd are n ot intende d for use by un trained or ine xper ien ced individu als.
These materials are intended to provide supplemental information to assist the trained technician. Untrained or inexperienced individuals should seek the assistance of an experienced and tr ained p rofessional. Read, understan d, and follo w all
instructions and use common sense when working on power equipment. This includes the contents of the product’s Operators Manual, supplied with the equipment. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omission in this publication,
although care has been taken to make it as co mpl ete and accu rate as possible at the time of publication. However, due to
the variety of outdoor power equipment and continuing product changes that occur over time, updates will be made to these
instructions from time to time. Therefore, it may be necessary to obtain the latest materials before servicing or repairing a
product. The company reserves the right to make changes at any time to this publication without prior notice and without
incurring an obligation to make such changes to previously published versions. Instructions, photographs and illustrations
used in this publication are for reference use only and may not depict actual model and component parts.
This manual is intended to provide service dealers with an introduction to proven diagnostic and repair proce-
dures for 78/83/90 series MTD horizontal shaft engines.
Disclaimer: The information contained in this manual is correct at the time of writin g. Both the prod u ct an d th e inf or -
mation about the product are subject to change without notice.
About the text format:
NOTE: Is used to point out information that is relevant to the procedure, but does not fit as a step in the proce -
dure.
•Bullet points: indicate sub-steps or points.
! CAUTION! CA UTION
! WARNING! WA RNI NG
! DANGER! DANGER
1.Numbered steps indicate specific things that should be done, and the order in which they should be done .
1a.Substeps will be lettered and nested within steps. Two or more substeps may be combined to describe
the actions required to complete a step.
Disclaimer: This manual is intended for use by trained, professional technicians.
•Common sense in operation and safety is assumed.
•In no event shall MTD be liable for poor text interpretation or poor execution of the pro cedures described
in the text.
Caution is used to point out potential danger to the technician, operator, bystanders, or surrounding property.
Warning indicates a potentially hazardous situation that, if not avoided, could result in death
or serious injury.
Danger indicates an imminently hazardous situation that, if not avoided, will result in death or
serious injury. This signal word is to be limited to the most extreme situations
•If the person using this manual is uncomfortable with any procedures they encounter, they should seek
the help of a qualified technician or MTD Technical Suppor t.
Safety
This Service Manual is meant to be used along with the Operator’s Manual. Read the Operator’s Manual and
familiarize yourself with the safety and operational instructions for the equipment being worked on. Keep a copy of
the Operator’s Manual for quick reference. Operator’s manuals may be viewed for free at the brand support website.
It will be necessary to have the complete model and serial number for the equipment.
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•Be prepared in case of emergency:
! CAUTION! CAUTION
Keep a fire extinguisher nearby
Keep a first aid kit nearby
Keep emergency contact numbers handy
•Replace any missing or damaged safety labels on shop equipment.
•Replace any missing or damaged safety labels on equipment being serviced.
•Grooming and attire:
! WARNING! WARNING
! CAUTION! CAUTION
Do not wear loose fitting clothing that may become entangled in equipment.
Long hair should be secured to prevent entanglement in equipment.
Jewelry is best removed.
•Protective gear: includes, but is not limited to
Clear eye protection ................................ while working around any machinery
Protective gloves ..................................... where necessary
Armored footwear.................................... when working around any machinery
Hearing protection ................................... in noisy environments
Chemically resistant gloves..................... when working with chemicals or solvents
Respirator................................................ when working with chemical or solvents
Appropriate tinted eye protection............. when cutting or welding
Flame resistant headgear, jacket, chaps. when cutting or welding
•Remember that some hazards have a cumulative effect. A single exposure may
cause little or no harm, but continual or repeated exposure may cause very serious
harm.
•Clean spills and fix obviously dangerous conditions as soon as they are noticed.
! DANGER! DANGER
2
•Lift and support heavy objects safely and securely.
•Be aware of your surroundings and potential hazards that are inherent to all power
equipment. All the labels in the world cannot protect a technician from an instant of
carelessness.
•Exhaust fumes from running engines contain carbon monoxide (CO). Carbon
monoxide is a colorless odorless gas that is fatal if inhaled in sufficient quantity.
Only run engines in well ventilated areas. If running engines indoors, use an
exhaust evacuation system with adequate make-up air ventilated into the shop.
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Introduction
Fasteners
•Most of the fasteners used on the MTD engine are metric. Some are fractional inches. For this reason,
wrench sizes are frequently identified in the text, and measurements are given in U.S. and metric scales.
•If a fastener has a locking feature that has worn, replace the fastener or apply a small amount of releasable thread locking compound such as Loctite® 242 (blue).
•Some fasteners, like cotter pins, are single-use items that are not to be reused. Other fasteners such as
lock washers, retaining rings, and internal cotter pins (hairpin clips) may be reused if they do not show
signs of wear or damage. This manual leaves that decision to the judgement of the technician.
Assembly instructions
•Torque specifications may be noted in the part of the text that covers assembly. They may be summa-
rized in tables along with special instructions regarding locking or lubrication. Whichever method is more
appropriate will be used. In many cases, both will be used so that the manual is handy as a quick-reference guide as well as a step-by-step procedure guide that does not require the user to hunt for information.
•Lubricant quantity and specification may be noted in the part of the text that covers maintenance, and
again in the section that covers assembly. They may also be summarized in tables along with special
instructions. Whichever method is more appropriate will be used. In many cases, the information will be
found in several places in the manual so that the manual is handy as a quick-r eference g uide as we ll as a
step-by-step procedure guide that does not require the user to hunt for information.
•The level of assembly instructions provided will be determined by the complexity of reassembly, and by
the potential for damage or unsafe conditions to arise from mistakes made in assembly.
•Some instructions may refer to other parts of the manual for subsidiary pr ocedures. Th is avoids repeating
the same procedure two or three times in the manual.
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78/83/90 Series Horizontal Shaft Engines
Model and serial number
The model and serial number can be found on a white
sticker with a bar code. The sticker is located on the right
side of the engine at the bottom of the block.
See Figure 1.1.
NOTE: The serial number will always start with the
model number.
MTD H oriz ontal Engine Model Desi gna tors
Front of engine
Model /serial number
Figure 1.1
Starter/Alternators
1=Recoil st art
2=Electric start
3=E. start/alt. 20W/20W
4=E. start/alt. 3A DC/5A
Bore Dia. (mm)
MTDEngineSerialNumbers
1P65FH/0510271A0023
1 6 1 -S H A
Major Revision
Change
Compliance
UUnited States (50 State)
HEurope
CCalifornia
0 (Zero) 49 State
GU .S.(49) and Europe
WU.S.(50) and Europe
The information in this manual applies to the MTD
engine. Some basic principles may apply to engines produced by other manufacturers.
As the saying goes “an ounce of prevention is worth a
pound of cure”. The same can be said about preventive
maintenance on outdoor power equipment. By changing
the spark plug and oil at recommended intervals many failures can be avoided.
NOTE: Please refer to Chapter 7: Ignition for the complete
service instructions on spark plugs.
1. The spark plug used in the MTD engine is a F6RTC
gapped to 0.026” - 0.030” (0.65 - 0.75 mm).
See Figure 1.2.
Introduction
Figure 1.2
2.Wear rate will vary somewhat with severity of use. If the edges of the center electrode are rounded-off, or any
other apparent wear / damage occurs, replace the spark plug befo re operating failure (no start) occurs.
3.Cleaning the spark plug:
NOTE: MTD does not recommend cleaning spark plugs. Use of a wire brush may leave metal deposits on the
insulator that causes the spark plug to short out and fail to spark. Use of abrasive blast for cleaning
may cause damage to ceramic insulator or leave blast media in the recesses of the spark plug. When
the media comes loose during engine operation, severe and non-warrantable engine damage may
result.
4.Inspection of the spark plug can provide indications of th e op er a ting c on di tion of th e en gine .
•Light tan colored deposits on insulator and electrode s is nor mal.
•Dry , black deposits on the insulator and electrodes indicate an over-rich fuel / air mixture (too much fuel or
not enough air)
•Wet, black deposits on the insulator and electrodes indicate the presence of oil in the combustion cham-
ber.
•Heat damaged (melted electrodes / cracked insulator / metal transfer deposits) may indicate detonation.
•A spark plug that is wet with fuel indicates that fuel is present in the combustion chamber, but it is not
being ignited.
NOTE: The F6RTC plug is the only plug that is EPA certi-
fied for the MTD engine.
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Air filter (summer engines)
Generally air filters come in two different types, a
pleated-paper element or foam. A combination of the two
are
used on the MTD engine. See Figure 1.3.
1.The main function of the air filter is to trap air borne
particles before they enter the engine . Dirt ingestion
can cause serious internal engine damage.
NOTE: Snow engines do not have air filters
because the snow will plug up the filter . Gen
erally the air is clean enough that there is
minimal risk of dirt ingestion when the
ground is covered with snow.
2.Air filters used on the MTD engine are designed to
prevent particles larger than 3-5 micron from pass
ing through into the engine.
3.The filter should be checked on a regular basis pos-
sibly several times in a season.
4.Typically an air filter should be changed before every season.
5.If a foam air pre-cleaner is dirty, but not in bad of condition it can be cleaned and reused. The paper pleate d fil-
ters can be shaken or lightly tapped to free the debris from the filter.
NOTE: Never use compressed air on a paper air filter . Compressed air will remove the tiny fibers that are used
to catch the dirt in the air. Without these fibers the filter is useless.
-
-
Paper-pleated element
Foam pre-filter
Figure 1.3
6.Foam pre-filters can be washed in warm soapy water.
NOTE: When drying a foam filter either squeeze it in side of a paper towel or let it air dry DO NOT wring it
because the filter will tear.
7.Before installing any foam filter, after it has been washed, it needs to be free of moisture.
NOTE: Always check with factory specification prior to servicing/replacing any engine components.
NOTE: Do not oil the foam pre-filter. The paper filer will absorb the oil and it will become plugged.
6
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Introduction
Oil type and capacity
MTD engines use oil with a SF/SG API rating or better is the recommended oil for this engine. The winter
engines use SAE 5W-30 oil and the summer engines use SAE 10W-30 oil. The oil capacity for all of the 78/83/90
series engines is 37 fl.oz (1.1 liters).
•Check the oil level frequently and change the oil more frequently in severe operating conditions such as
exceptionally deep snow falls.
•Synthetic oil is a suitable alternative, but it does not extend service interva ls.
NOTE: MTD recommends the use of petroleum oil during the break in period to ensure the piston rings cor-
rectly break in.
•Synthetic vs. Petroleum based oil: To simply look at synthetic oil and to compare it with Petroleum based
oil there is very little difference. However, when you look at the two thro ugh a microscope it is easy to see
the difference. Synthetic is made up of smaller molecules. This allows the oil to get into areas that petroleum based oil cannot.
•No oil additives or viscosity modifiers are recommended. The performance of a good oil meeting the API
specifications will not be improved by oil additives.
NOTE: Some oil additives may cause severe and non warrantable engine damage, constituting a lubrication
failure.
NOTE: If the oil is noticeably thin, or smells of gasoline, a carburetor repair may be needed before the engine
can be run safely.
NOTE: There are two types of dip sticks that can be found
on MTD engines; a threaded dip stick that was
used on older engines and a quarter turn dip stick
that is used on engines currently being produced.
See Figure 1.4.
1/4 turn
Figure 1.4
Threaded
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To check the oil with a threaded dip stick:
1. Twist and remove the dip stick from the engine.
2.Clean the oil off of the tip of the dipstick.
3.Re-insert the dipstick without threading it in to get
the oil level reading.
4.The oil level is determined by the lowest point on
the dipstick that is completely covered with oil.
To check the oil with a 1/4 turn dip stick:
1. Twist and remove the dip stick from the engine.
2.Clean the oil off of the tip of the dipstick.
See Figure 1.5.
Do not thread
dipstick in to check
the oil level
Figure 1.5
Fully seat the
dip stick before
reading it
3.Re-insert the dipstick and turn it until it is fully seated to get the oil level reading.
4.The oil level is determined by the lowest point on
the dipstick that is completely covered with oil.
Changing the oil
NOTE: If the engine has been running, allow the
engine to cool before doing any mainte
nance work.
NOTE: The oil should be changed after the first 5 hours of operation and every 50 hours there after.
1.Place a suitable drain pan under the drain plug to
collect the oil.
2.Drain the oil by removing the drain plug located at
the end of the extension pipe threaded into the base
of the engine, using a 10mm wrench.
See Figure 1.7.
3.When all of the oil has drained out, reinstall the
drain plug. Tigh te n the d rain p l ug to a torq ue of 1 06124 in-lbs (12-14 Nm).
See Figure 1.6.
-
Figure 1.6
Oil drain
4.Fill the engine with 37 fl.oz (1.1 liters) of fresh, clean
oil that is the appropriate weight for the application.
5.Safely dispose of the used oil according to the local
laws and regulations.
8
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Figure 1.7
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Introduction
Fuel
Gasolines currently on the market are not pur e gasoline. Today’s fuels have alcohol and other additives in them to
reduce emissions. The fuel make up can vary seasonally and geographically.
Fuel with alcohol added to it is sometimes referred to as “oxygenated fuel”. The extra oxygen carried by the ethanol increases the oxidation of the fuel. This speeds up the process that causes the fuel to go bad.
Excessive alcohol in fuel creates a lot of problems for gasoline engines. One of the biggest problems is that alcohol attracts and holds water. This corrodes the metal components of the fuel system, especially the carburetor. Alcohol also does not produce as much heat as gasoline when burnt. This results in less power for the en gine.
A 10% alcohol mix (E10) is acceptable for MTD engines. Anything higher than that will result in performance
issues.
NOTE: E85 and E20 fuels are not to be used in any MTD engines.
NOTE: Use clean, fresh fuel with a pump octane rating of 87 or greater.
•Stale or out-of-date fuel is the leading cause of hard starting issues.
•In areas that have high amounts of alcohol in their fuel, high oct ane fuel may imp rove engine performance
and startability.
Fuel filters
fuel filter
Nipple
Figure 1.8
Dirty fuel can clog the carburetor and introduce abrasive materials into the engine. To help prevent that, MTD
engines are equipped with a fuel filter . The fuel filter is p art
of the fuel tank nipple.
See Figure 1.8.
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To replace the fuel filter:
To avoid personal injury or property
! WARNING! WARN IN G
flammable and the vapors are explosive. Serious
personal injury can occur when gasoline is spilled
on yourself and/or your clothes which can ignite.
Wash your skin and change clothes immediately.
1.Siphon the fuel out of the fuel tank.
2.Remove the front fuel tank shroud using a 10 mm
wrench.
3.Remove the fuel line from the fuel tank nipple:
3a.Squeeze the tabs on the fuel line clamp with a
pair of pliers while sliding the clamp down the
fuel line away from the nipple.
1.10.
damage, use extreme care in handling gasoline. Gasoline is extremely
See Figure 1.9.
See Figure
Front fuel tank shroud
Remove these
screws
Figure 1.9
Fuel filter
3b.Gently work the fuel line off of the nipple.
Residual fuel in the fuel tank will
! WARNING! WARN IN G
mended to help prevent gasoline from splashing
into your eyes.
4.Remove the fuel tank nipple using a 17 mm wrench.
5.Install a new filter by following the above steps in
reverse order.
NOTE: Apply a small amount of releasable thread locking compound such as Loctite® 242 (blue ) an d tigh ten
come out when the fuel line is
removed. Safety goggles are recom-
the filter by hand and then an additional 3/4 to 1 full turn to compress the gasket.
Fuel line clamp
Figure 1.10
10
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Introduction
Valve lash
V alve lash is the clearance between the top of the valve stem and the rocker arm. The valve lash should be
checked after the first 25 hours of use and ever y 100 hour s a f ter th at. Valve lash can be checked and adjusted using
the following steps:
Muffle
Spark plug socket
Valve cover
Figure 1.11
Breather
hose
spring
clamp
1. If the engine has been run, allow it to cool thoroughly.
Position the equipment for easy access to the cylin
der head.
2.Disconnect the high-tension lead from the spark plug
and ground it well away from the spark plug hole.
3.Remove the spark plug using a 13/16” or 21mm
wrench. A flexible coupling or “wobbly” extension
may help.
4.Disconnect the breather hose from the valve cover.
See Figure 1.12.
5.Remove the five bolts that secure the valve cover
using a 10mm wrench. Remove the valve cover from
the engine.
NOTE: If care is taken not to damage the valve cover gas-
ket, it can be re-used.
See Figure 1.11.
-
Figure 1.12
11
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6.Slowly pull the starter rope until air can be heard
coming out of the spark plug hole.
7.Confirm that the piston is at Top-Dead-Center on
the compression stroke.
• The compression stroke can be distinguished
from the overlap stroke by the presence of air
pressure at the spark plug hole and the fact that
neither of the valves should move significantly
on the compression stroke.
•There is an automatic compression release
mechanism that “bumps” the exhaust valve as
the piston rises on the compression stroke. At
TDC, the exhaust valve should be fully closed.
8.Check valve lash between each valve stem and
rocker arm using a feeler gauge.
9.Intake valve lash (carburetor side) should be 0.004”-
0.006” (0.10 - 0.15mm).
See Figure 1.13.
See Figure 1.14.
Probe to confirm piston
is at top of travel
Valves closed
(push rods slack)
Push rods
relaxed
Figure 1.13
.006” feeler
gauge
10.Exhaust valve lash (muffler side) should be 0.006-
0.008” (0.15 - 0.20mm).
11.Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the jam nut, and a
14mm wrench to adjust the rocker arm fulcrum nut.
See Figure 1.15.
•Tighten the rocker arm fulcrum nut to close-up
the clearance between the end of the valve
stem and the contact point on the rocker arm.
•Loosen the rocker arm fulcrum nut to open-up
the clearance between the end of the valve
stem and the contact point on the rocker arm.
12.Hold the fulcrum nut with a 14mm wrench, tighten
the jam nut to a torque of 80 - 106 in-lb. (9-12 Nm)
using a 10mm wrench.
12
See Figure 1.15.
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Figure 1.14
.008” feeler
gauge
Figure 1.15
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Introduction
13.Double-check the clearance after tightening the jam nut, to confirm that it did not shift. Re-adjust if necessary.
14.Rotate the engine through several compression cycles:
•Observe the movement of the valve gear.
•Return the piston to TDC compression stroke and re-check the valve lash to confirm consistent movement
of the valve gear, including the slight bump to the exhaust valve from the automatic compression release.
15.Clean-up any oil around the valve cover opening, clean the valve cover, replace the valve cover gasket if necessary.
16.Install the valve cover, tightening the valve cover screws to a torque of 62 - 80 in-lbs (7-9 Nm).
IMPORTANT: Over tightening the valve cover will cause it to leak.
17.Install the spark plug.
Cleaning the engine
1.To maintain a proper operating temperature and to keep the equipment looking good; all debris should be
removed from the engine.
2.It is recommended to use compressed air to blow all of the debris off of the engine.
NOTE: A pressure washer may be used to clean outdoor power equipment butonly after the unit has been
allowed to properly cool.
NOTE: Mice and other critters tend to build nests inside the engine shrouds while the snow blower is stored
Troubleshooting - The act of gathering information by preforming tests and direct observations.
Diagnosis
shooting.
Introduction
Diagnosing an engine is an art form that is built upon several factors. First and most importantly is a good understanding of how the engine works. The second is skills that have been honed by experience. Finally the use of visual
observations and a structured, systematic approach to troubleshooting a problem.
The first part of this chapter will outline the steps of troubleshooting an engine so a technician can form a proper
diagnosis. The second half of this chapter will describe specific procedures and tests to perform while troubleshooting.
Steps to troubleshooting
Define the problem
The first step in troubleshooting is to define the problem:
- Developing and testing theories of what the problem is, based on the information gathered in trouble-
The first two rules in troubleshooting is to cause no further harm to the engine and prevent
! CAUTION! CAUTION
NOTE: The steps and the order of the steps that follow are a suggested approach to troubleshooting the MTD
•Crankshaft will not turn.
injuries. Always make sure to check the oil for level and condition before starting an engin e.
Also check attachments for damage and make sure they are firmly mounted.
engine. The technician does not necessarily have to follow them as described in this chapter
A. Hard to pull rope, steady pressure
B. Rope jerks back
C. Rope will not pull at all
•Crankshaft turns, no start
•Starts, runs poorly
A. Starts, then dies
B. Runs with low power output
C. Makes unusual smoke when running
I.Black smoke, usually heavy
II. White smoke, usually heavy
III. Blue smoke. usually light
D. Makes unusual sounds when running
I.Knock
II. Click
III. Chirp
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IV. Unusual exhaust tone
There are tools that the technician can use in order to define the problem, such as:
1.Interview the customer.
1a. Get a good description of their complaint.
1b. If it is an intermittent problem, verify what conditions aggravate the problem as best as possible.
1c. Get an accurate service history of the equipment.
1d. Find out how the customer uses and stores the equipment.
2.Direct observation:
2a.Do not automatically accept that the customer is correct with their description of the problem. Try to
duplicate the problem.
2b.Check the general condition of the equipment (visually).
I.Cleanliness of the equipment will indicate the level of care the equipment has received.
II. Make sure the engine and attachments are securely fastened.
III. The tune-up factors.
NOTE: Most hard starting and poor running conditions can be solved by performing a tune-up.
a. Check the condition and amount of oil in the crankcase.
b. Check the level and condition of the fuel.
c. Check the ignition and “read” the spark plug.
d. Look for obvious signs of physical damage, exhaust system blockage or cooling system block-
age.
3.Broken starter rope.
3a.Usually means the engine was hard to start.
3b.Makes it impossible to confirm any running or hard starting symptoms by direct observation.
3c.Some inference can be made from checking other factors of the general condition of the equipment.
Identify factors that could cause the problem
This is the second step in the troubleshooting process.
1.Crankshaft will not turn.
A. Hard to pull rope, steady pressure. This usually indicates a mechanical bind of some sort. The likely
suspects are:
I.A slightly bent crankshaft. In some cases the drag may increase and decrease as the crankshaft
rotates. This produces a pulsing feeling that is different than a jerk back.
II. A parasitic load from a drive belt that is not releasing or an implement that is jammed.
III. An internal drag from a scored or seized piston.
18
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BASIC TROUBLESHOOTING
D. Rope jerks back. This usually indicates that the piston is stopping before top dead center on the com-
pression stroke and is being driven back down by compression or combustion. The likely suspects are:
I.Compression that is unusually high.
a. valve lash.
b. a partial hydraulic lock.
III. Ignition timing is advanced.
a. Improper air gap.
b. Sheared or missing flywheel key.
c. The wrong flywheel or module is installed on the engine.
IV. Insufficient inertia to over-come normal compression .
a. Loose implement.
b. A light flywheel used on a heavy flywheel application.
C. Rope will not pull at all. This is usually either a quick fix or a catastrophic failure. The likely suspects
are:
I.A broken starter recoil (easy fix).
II. Complete hydraulic lock (easy fix).
III. External binding/jammed implement (easy fix).
IV. Bent crankshaft (unrepairable)
V. Internal binding, crankshaft, connecting rod or piston (unrepairable)
2.Crankshaft turns, no start.
2a.Most gasoline engine diagnosis involves isolating problems in the four critical factors an engine needs to
run properly:
I.Ignition- sufficient spark to start combustion in the cylinder, occurring at the right time.
II. Compression- enough pressure in the cylinder to convert combustion into kinetic motion. It also
needs sufficient sealing to generate the vacuum needed to draw in and atomize the next intake
charge.
III. Fuel- correct type and grade of fr esh gasoline; in sufficient quantity, atomized (tiny droplets) and in
correct fuel/air proportions.
IV. Flow- if all of the above conditions are met but the flow of air is constricted on the inlet or exhaust
side, it will cause the engine to run poorly or not at all. This also includes ensuring the valves are
timed to open at the proper time.
2a.Isolate the ignition system and compression from the fuel system by preforming a prime test.
I.Burns prime and dies. This would indicate a fuel system issue.
II. Does not burn prime. Not a fuel system issue. Check for an ignition, compression or flow problem.
2c. Compression or ignition problem
I.Check the engine stop and safety switch.
II. Test the ignition system using a proper tester.
III. Replace the spark plug with a new one or a known go od one.
IV. Check compression or leak down.
V. Check valve lash.
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VI. Check valve timing/actuation.
VII. Check exhaust.
3.Starts, runs poorly
3a. Starts, then dies
I.Run the engine with a spark tester in-line between the sp ark plug wire and the sp ark plug or use an
oscilloscope and see if the spark goes away at the same time the engine dies.
II. Check choke operation.
a. Black smoke?
b. Wet plug?
III. Prime test immediately after engine dies. If it restarts; this may indicate a problem with fuel flow to
the carburetor. Check the gas cap, fuel line, fuel filter, and the float in the carburetor.
3b. Runs with low power output.
I.Look for unusual exhaust color (smoke).
II. Unusually hot muffler (may glow red).
a. Retarded ignition
b. Exhaust valve opening early (lash too tight)
III. Mechanical bind
a. A slightly bent crankshaft. In some cases the drag may incr ease and decrease a s the crankshaf t
rotates. This produces a pulsing feeling that is different than a jerk back.
b. Parasitic external load. A bind in the equipment the engine is powering.
c. Internal drag from a scored piston or similar damage.
IV. Low governor setting or stuck governor.
a. Check RPMs using a tachometer.
b. RPMs should not droop under moderate to heavy loads.
V. Low compression
a. Check valve lash
b. Check compression
c. Check leak down to identify the source of the compression loss.
VI. Flow blockage
a. Exhaust blockage, usually accompa nied by an unusual exhaust sound.
• Just as a throttle on the carburetor controls the engine RPMs by limiting the amount of air an
engine can breathe in, an exhaust blockage will limit engine performance by constricting the
other end of the system.
• The muffler itself my be blocked.
• The exhaust valve may not be opening fully, possibly because of extremely loose valve lash
settings.
• The exhaust valve seat may have come loose in the cylinder head. This may cause a loss of
compression, a flow blockage or it may randomly alternate between the two.
NOTE: The cause of an exhaust valve coming loose is usually over heating.
20
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BASIC TROUBLESHOOTING
b. Intake blockage
• An intake blockage up-stream of the carburetor will cause a rich fuel/air mixture and constrict
the amount of air that the engine can draw in, limiting performance.
• The intake valve not fully opening. A possible cause of this is loose valve lash.
V. Makes unusual smoke when running
a. Black smoke, usually heavy, usually indicates a rich air fuel mixture
• Not enough air: air flow blockage or a partially closed choke.
• Too much fuel: carburetor float or float valve stuck or metering / emulsion issues with the carburetor.
b. White smoke, usually heavy
• Oil in muffler, usually the result of improper tipping. The engine will “fog” for a minute or so,
then clear-up on its own.
• Massive oil dilution with gasoline. It may be caused by improper tipping. It can also be caused
by leaky carburetor float valve, if there is a down-hill path from the carburetor to the intake port.
Check oil for gasoline smell, repair carburetor.
c. Blue smoke, usually light.
PCV system
• May be blocked or unplugged.
• May be over-come by massive over-filling or oil dilution with gasoline.
• Will cause oil to exit the engine via any low-resistance paths.
Piston rings
• Confirm with leak-down test.
• Smoke will be more pronounced under load.
• Repair may not make economic sense.
Valve guides (and intake valve stem seal).
• Smoke will be more pronounced on over-run.
VI. Makes unusual noise when running
a. Knock
• Check for loose mounting of engine or driven implement
• Rotate crankshaft back-and-forth to check for loose connecting rod.
b. Click
• Clicks and pops on engine shut-down: Compression release coming into play as the engine
RPMs cross the activation threshold. This will have no ill effects on engine performance.
• Over-heating engine (check for blocked cooling air flow)
• Carbon build-up in cylinder: glowing carbon chunks pre-igniting air fuel mix.
d. Chirp
• Compression, blowing-by the fire-ring of a damaged head gasket will sometimes produce a
chirping noise.
• Confirm with a compression test and leak-down test.
e. Unusual exhaust tone
Splashy or blatty
• Splashy idle usually indicates a slight rich condition.
• May indicate an exhaust blockage, usually slightly muffled.
Backfire
• On over-run: unburned fuel igniting past exhaust valve. Mixtu re not b urnin g completely in combustion chamber. It may be too rich or it may be spark-plug or ignition problem.
• Occasional, under load: engine momentarily runs lean, usually will cycle with float bowl level or
governor pull-in, sometimes sounds like a slight stumble. Ethanol content exceeding 10% will
make the engine run artificially lean.
Skip
• Usually ignition related.
• Run the engine with a spark tester in-line between the spark plug wire and the spark plug or
use an oscilloscope and see if the spark goes away at the same time the engine dies.
4.Engine over-speed
A. Continual over-speed
• Binding or damaged external governor linkage or carburetor throttle.
• Mis-adjusted governor arm.
• Internal governor failure.
B. Momentary over-speed
• Intermittent bind (very unusual).
• Interference: This is fairly common when debris can fall on the governor linkage duri ng normal
operations.
5.Engine RPMs surge (hunting)
A. Over-governed condition- Return spring replaced with wron g part or hooked into wrong hole.
NOTE: This is an extremely rare condition, usually created by tampering.
B. Lean Air-fuel mixture condition- When AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) is significantly below stoichiometric ratio
(14.7:1) engine RPMs sink until they reach a po int tha t can be su pp or te d by the availa b l e fuel . Th is
causes a momentary surge in power until the available fuel is consumed, then the RPMs fall again,
repeating the cycle.
• Too much air: look for an air leak in the intake tract
• Not enough fuel: look for fuel supply or carburetor problems
22
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BASIC TROUBLESHOOTING
Repairing the problem
The third step in the troubleshooting process is to repair the problem. This step consists of:
A. Form a diagnosis by using all of the information gathered fro m the tro ubl eshooting th at was per forme d.
B. Physically perform the repair.
The fourth, and hopefully final, step in the troubleshooting process is the follow through. This step consists of:
A. Thoroughly test the repaired equipment: confirmin g that the initial diagnosis was correct. If it was
wrong, start the troubleshooting process over again.
NOTE: Sometimes the engine will have multiple problems at the same time. By performing one repair, other
issues may show up that are unrelated to the first repair.
B. Delivery to customer: We are not just repairing equipment, we are repairing customers.
• Inoculate against recurring problem with education, e.g.: if the problem was caused by stale
fuel, make sure the customer is aware that fuel go es bad ove r tim e.
• Make sure the customer understands th e repair , preventing “superstitious” come-backs.
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78/83/90 Series Horizontal Shaft Engines
Prime test
To perform a prime test:
1.Prime the engine through the carburetor throat using a squirt bottle, filled with clean fresh gasoline.
2.Make sure the throttle is in the run position and the safety key if fully inserted.
3.Attempt to start the engine.
4.If the engine starts and runs long enough to burn the prime, the problem is effectively isolated to the fuel system. proceed to Chapter 4: The Fuel System and Governor.
5.Check ignition system as described in Chapter 7: Ignition System.
6.If the ignition system is working, check the compression or perform a leak down test.
Leak-down test
A leak-down test is the preferred method to test the engine’s ability to compress the charge. It will also show
where pressure is leaking from.
To perform a leak-down test:
NOTE: A leak down test pressurizes the combustion chamber with an external air source and will allow the
technician to listen for air “leaking” at the valves, piston rings and the head gasket.
NOTE: These are general instructions. Read and follow the instructions that came with the tester before
attempting to perform this test.
•If possible, run the engine for 3-5 minutes to warm up the engine.
•Remove the spark plug and air filter.
•Find top dead center of the compression stroke.
! CAUTION! CAUTION
1.Find top dead center by following the steps
described in the valve lash section of Chapter 1:
Introduction
2.Thread the leak down tester adapter into the spark
plug hole.
If the engine is not centered at top dead center, the engine will rotate when compressed air is
introduce to the combustion chamber.
See Figure 2.1.
3.Connect tester to compressed air.
4.Adjust the regulator knob until the needle on the
gauge is in the yellow or set area of the gauge.
5.Connect the tester to the adapter.
NOTE: If the engine rotates it was not at top dead
center.
6.Check the reading on the gauge.
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Leak-down
tester adapter
Figure 2.1
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