Troy-Bilt 15009 User Manual

Page 1
Owner/Operator Manual
ECONO-HORSE^ PONY® & JUNIOR® Model Tillers
• Safety
$4.50
Models
• Assembly
• Controls
• Operation
• Maintenance
15006 15008 15009
i?T7?'
/Jeu si^o
GARDEN WAY INCORPORATED
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Page 2
Dear Owner,
You now own one of the finest rear­tine rototillers available. Your new ECONO-HORSE® Model, PONY® Model or JUNIOR® Model tiller allows you to till and cultivate your garden with ease, and accomplish dozens of other property management projects as well. Your tiller is famous for its ruggedness, perfor mance and high-quality engineering. We know you’ll enjoy using it.
Please carefully read this Manual. It tells you how to safely and easily assem ble, operate and maintain your machine.
Be sure that you and any other operators carefully follow the recommended safety
practices at all times. Failure to do so
could result in personal injury or prop erty damage.
Of course, if you should ever have any problems or questions, or for a replace ment copy of this Manual, please contact your local authorized service dealer or call us Toll-Free. Our telephone num bers and mailing addresses are listed on Page 3 and the back cover of this Owner/ Operator Manual.
This is a safety aiert
symbol. It is used in this Owner/Operator Manual to alert you
A
Whenever you see this symbol, read and obey the safety message that follows it. Failure to obey the safety message could result in persona! injury or property damage.
Be Sure To Return Your Warranty Registration Card
Be sure to fill out and mail your Warranty Registration Card, which is located in your literature pack age. The infor mation contained on this card will register your machine with us and entitle you to warranty coverage.
to potential hazards.
J'JJAW-
We want to be sure that you are com pletely satisfied at all times.
This machine meets voluntary safety stan dard B71.8 - 1996, which is sponsored by the Outdoor Power Equipment Institute, Inc., and is published by the American National Standards Institute.
WARNING:
The engine exhaust from this product contains chemicals known to the
State of California to
cause cancer, birth defects, or other repro ductive harm.
Page 3
-ioieMs
Owner’s Record
Please write the Mode! and Serial numbers of your machine in the spaces provided. You can find the location of these numbers by refer ring to the graphic below.
Model Number:
Serial Number:
SECTION 1: SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS..................................................................4
Safety Alert Symbol..............................................................................4
Training.................................................................................................4
Preparation...........................................................................................4
Operation..............................................................................................4
Maintenance and Storage.....................................................................6
Decals...................................................................................................6
SECTION 2; EASY ASSEMBLY................................................................................7
SECTION 3: TILLER ANO ENGINE CONTROLS................................................18
Tiller Controls......................................................................................18
Engine Controls..................................................................................22
SECTION 4: OPERATION OF TILLER..................................................................24
Before Starting....................................................................................25
To Begin Tilling...................................................................................25
Turning Around
Stopping the Tiller and Engine............................................................25
Changing Speeds (Econo-Horse only)
Tilling in the Garden............................................................................27
Guiding your Tiller.......................................................................27
Tilling Depths...............................................................................27
Tilling Patterns.............................................................................28
Choosing WheeJ and Tine Speeds
Avoid Making Footprints..............................................................29
Clearing Debris from the Tine Area
Power Composting......................................................................30
Using Reverse to Turn in Tight Areas.........................................30
Tilling Near Obstacles
Tilling Up and Down Slopes........................................................31
Tilling Across Slopes Using Terraces.........................................31
Tilling Across Slopes Without Terraces Loading and Unloading the Tiller
...................................................................................
...............................................
............................................
............................................
.................................................................
......................................
................................................
25
26
29
29
30
32 32
Model and Serial Number location
SECTION 5: TILLER AND ENGINE MAINTENANCE
Lubrication..........................................................................................33
Check for Oil Leaks.............................................................................34
Tightening Nuts and Bolts...................................................................34
Checking/Adding/Changing Transmission Gear Oil
Checking Engine Oil Level..................................................................35
Changing Engine Oil...........................................................................36
Air Cleaner Service.............................................................................36
Spark Plug Maintenance.....................................................................37
Ignition System Maintenance..............................................................37
Air Cooling System Maintenance........................................................37
Bolo Tines...........................................................................................37
Checking Tension on the Drive Belts..................................................38
Adjusting Forward Drive Belt Tension.................................................39
Removing and Installing Forward Drive Belt......................................41
Removing and Installing Reverse Drive Beit Adjusting Reverse Drive Belt Tension Wheel Gear Cable Adjustment
Engine Throttle Cable Adjustment......................................................44
Off-Season Storage............................................................................44
Troubleshoot Electric Start System.....................................................45
Battery Care and Maintenance...........................................................47
Carburetor Adjustment........................................................................47
Specifications......................................................................................48
Recommended Maintenance Intervals
................................................
...........................................................
.......................................
...........................
......................................
...............................................
33
TROUBLESHOOTING......................................................................................50-51
INDEX..........................................................................................................................52
34
42 43 43
49
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Page 4
A CAUTION
TO AVOID SERIOUS INJURY:
READ THE OWNER / OPERATOR MANUAL. KNOW LOCATIONS AND FUNCTIONS OF ALL
CONTROLS. KEEP ALL SAFETY DEVICES AND SHIELDS IN
PLACE AND WORKING. NEVER ALLOW CHILDREN OR UNIN
STRUCTED ADULTS TO OPERATE TILLER. SHUT OFF ENGINE AND DISCONNECT
SPARK PLUG WIRE BEFORE MANUALLY UN CLOGGING TINES OR MAKING REPAIRS.
KEEP BYSTANDERS AWAY FROM MACHINE. KEEP AWAY FROM ROTATING PARTS. USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN REVERSING
OR PULLING THE MACHINE TOWARDS YOU.

Awarning

The engine exhaust from this product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, or other reproduc tive harm.
A
Under California law, and under the laws of several other states, you are not permitted to operate an internal combustion engine using hydrocarbon fuels on any forest covered, brush covered, or grass covered land, or on land covered with grain, hay, or other flammable agricultural crop, without an en gine spark arrester in continuous effective working order.
The engine on your power equipment, like most outdoor power equipment, is an internal combustion engine that burns gasoline, a hydrocarbon fuel. Therefore, your power equipment must be equipped with a spark arrester muffler in continuous effective working order. The spark arrester must be at tached to the engine exhaust system in such a manner that flames or heat from the system will not ignite flammable material. Contact your authorized engine dealer for information about obtaining a spark arrester. Failure of the owner / operator of the equipment to comply with this regulation is a misdemeanor under California law, and may also be a violation of other state and/or federal regula tions, laws, ordinances, or codes. Contact your local fire marshal or forest service for specific infor mation about what regulations apply in your area.
WARNING TO ALL CALIFORNIA AND OTHER POWER EQUIPMENT OPERATORS
Page 5

ENGINE SERVICE

If your tiller engine ever needs service or re
pair, contact your nearest Briggs & Stratton or Tecumseh Service Dealer.
To find the nearest Service Dealer, look in the
Yellow Pages of your phone book under “Engines-Gasoline”, or “Gasoline Engines.”
If you have problems getting engine service or
parts locally, let us know so we can provide you with the name of the nearest Service Dealer.

QUESTIONS OR PROBLEMS?

1. Check this Owner/Operator Manual:
The answer to your question or problem may be in this Manual. Refer to the index at the back of this Manual to find the listing that concerns your problem. Turn to that page and read the informa tion provided.
For Fastest Service, Use The Numbers Below
In the U.S.A.:
Customer Service..................................................................1-800-437-8686
Technical Service..................................................................1-800-520-5520
Parts Orders...........................................................................1-800-648-6776
2. Call or write to us:
If you can't find the answer to your question or
problem in this Manual, please call us or write to
us. One of our helpful, friendly tiller experts will
gladly help you. Be sure to include your tiller model name and the serial number of your tiller.
3. If you need a part:
Call or write to our Parts Department (see the Toll-Free telephone number below). Please have your tiller model name and serial number at
hand. Use the Parts Catalog to find the part number and quantity of the part you need. Remember that you can purchase many of the
common hardware items at your local hardware store as well as ordering them from us.
Outside the U.S.A. and Canada:
Customer Service.....................................................................................(518) 391-7007
Technical Service
Parts Service.............................................................................................(518) 391-7006
.....................................................................................
(518) 391-7008
If you would rather write, our mailing address is:
Garden Way Incorporated 1 Garden Way Troy, New York 12180
IMPORTANT!
If you notice any freight damage or missing parts, either at the time of delivery or later during assembly, make sure that you put it in writing, within 15 days, and send your letter to the shipper to confirm that you intend to file a claim. Tell the driver, or inform the truck terminal, that you
intend to file a written claim. They will advise you as to how to proceed. However, if you
have any problems with this procedure, please call us so that we can help you get satisfaction.
3
Page 6

Section 1: Safety Instructions

Your TROY-BILT Model Tiller has been designed with many safety features. However, as with any
other piece of powered equipment, the operator must follow safe operating practices at ali times. Failure to do so could result in personal injury or damage to the equipment or property.
Before assembling, operating or servicing the tiller or its engine, carefully read and follow all of the safety instructions found in this Owner / Operator Manuai, in the separate Engine Owner’s Manual, and in any other literature you may receive. If you ever have any questions, please call us at one of the numbers listed on page 3 of this manual.
If you ever lend your tiller to someone, make sure that he or she reads, understands, and follows the Safety Instructions. Always use your tiller carefully and keep safety in mind.
SAFETY ALERT SYMBOL. This symbol is used to alert you to
important safety messages in this Manual and on decals which
A
do so can result in personal injury or property damage.
are on your tiller regarding potential hazards. When you see this symbol, carefully read and follow its safety message. Failure to

TRAINING

1. Carefully read this Owner/Operator Manual, the separate Engine Owner’s Manual, and any other literature you may receive. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls and the proper use of the tiller and its engine. Know how to stop the unit and disen gage the controls quickly.
2. Never allow children to operate the tiller. Let adults operate the tiller only if instructed properly.
3. Keep the area of operation clear of all persons (particularly children) and pets.
4. Keep in mind that the operator or user is respon sible for accidents or hazards occurring to other people, their property, and themselves.

PREPARATION

1. Thoroughly inspect the area where the tiller is to be used and remove all foreign objects.
2. Be sure all control levers are released and the
ECONO-HORSE or PONY Model Wheel Gear
Lever is in “ENGAGE” before starting the engine. On the JUNIOR Model, which does not have a Wheel Gear Lever, be sure the Wheel Drive Pins engage the wheels.
3. Do not operate the tiller without wearing ade quate outer garments. Avoid loose garments or jewelry that could get caught in moving parts of the tiller or its engine.
4. Do not operate the tiller when barefoot or wearing sandals, sneakers, or light footwear. Wear protective footwear which grips well on slippery surfaces.
5. Do not till near underground electric cables, tele
phone lines, pipes or hoses. If in doubt, contact your telephone or utility company.
6. Handle fuel with care; it is highly flammable and its vapors are explosive. Take the following precautions:
a. Use an approved fuel container.
b. The gas cap shall never be removed or fuel
added while the engine is running. Allow the engine to cool for several minutes before adding fuel.
c. Keep matches, cigarettes, cigars, pipes, open
flames, and sparks away from the fuel tank and fuel container.
d. Fill fuel tank outdoors with extreme care.
Never fill fuel tank indoors. Use a funnel or
spout to prevent spillage.
e. Replace all fuel tank and container caps se
curely.
f. If fuel is spilled, do not attempt to start the en
gine, but move the machine away from the area of spillage and avoid creating any source of ignition until fuel vapors have dissipated.
7. Never make adjustments when engine is running (unless recommended by manufacturer).

OPERATION

1. Do not put hands or feet near rotating parts.
2. Exercise extreme caution when on or crossing gravel drives, walks, or roads. Stay alert for hidden
hazards or traffic. Do not carry passengers.
3. After striking a foreign object, stop the engine (and remove the Ignition Switch Key on electric
start models), disconnect the spark plug wire and
prevent it from touching the spark plug, carefully in
spect the tiller for any damage, and repair the dam age before restarting and operating the tiller.
4. Exercise caution to avoid slipping or falling.
5. If the machine should start to vibrate abnormally,
stop the engine (and remove the Ignition Switch Key on electric start models). Disconnect the spark plug wire and prevent it from touching the spark plug, and check immediately for the cause. Vibration is gener ally a warning of trouble.
Page 7
6. Stop the engine (and remove the ignition Switch Key on electric start models), disconnect the spark plug wire and prevent it from touching the spark plug whenever you leave the operating position, before unclogging the tines, or when making any repairs, adjustments or inspections.
7. Take all possible precautions when leaving the machine unattended. Stop the engine. Remove
Ignition Key on electric start models. Disconnect
spark plug wire and move it away from the spark
plug. Move Wheel Gear Lever to “ENGAGE” on Econo-Horse and Pony models. On Junior models,
the Wheel Drive Pins must engage the wheels.
8. Before cleaning, repairing, or inspecting, stop the engine, remove the Ignition Switch Key on elec tric start models, and make certain all moving parts have stopped. Disconnect the spark plug wire and
prevent it from touching the spark plug to prevent
accidental starting. On electric start models, always
remove the cable from the negative side (-) of the battery.
9. Always keep the tiller tine hood flap down, un less using the hiller/furrower attachment.
10. Never use the tiller unless proper guards, plates, or other safety protective devices are in place.
11. Do not run engine in an enclosed area. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide gas, a deadly poison that is odorless, colorless, and tasteless.
12. Keep children and pets away.
13. Never operate the tiller under engine power if
the Econo-Horse or Pony Wheel Gear Lever is in
“DISENGAGE” (FREEWHEEL), or if the Junior
Wheel Drive Pins do not engage the wheels. In this
position, the wheels will not hold the tiller back and
the revolving tines could propel the tiller rapidly,
possibly causing loss of control. Always move the
Wheel Gear Lever to “ENGAGE” (or, on the Junior,
ENGAGE the wheels with the Wheel Drive Pins) before starting the engine or engaging the tines /
wheels with the Forward Clutch or the
Maneuvering Clutch.
14. Be aware that the tiller may unexpectedly bounce upward or jump forward if the tines should
strike extremely hardpacked soil, frozen ground, or
buried obstacles like large stones, roots, or stumps. If in doubt about the tilling conditions, al
ways use the following operating precautions to as sist you in maintaining control of the tiller:
a. Walk behind and to one side of the tiller, using
one hand on the handlebars. Relax your arm, but use a secure hand grip.
b. Use shallower depth regulator settings, work
ing gradually deeper with each pass.
c. Place the forward drive belt in its LOW Range
position (Econo-Horse only). Use slower en gine speeds.
d. Clear the tilling area of all large stones, roots
and other debris.
e. Avoid using downward pressure on handle
bars. If need be, use slight upward pressure to keep the tines from digging too deeply.
f. Before contacting hardpacked soil at the end
of a row, reduce engine speed and lift handle bars to raise tines out of the soil.
g. !n an emergency, stop tines and wheels by
releasing whichever Clutch Lever is en gaged. Do not attempt to restrain the tiller.
15. Do not overload the tiller’s capacity by attempt ing to till too deeply at too fast a rate.
16. Never operate the tiller at high transport speeds on hard or slippery surfaces. Look behind and use care when backing up.
17. Do not operate the tiller on a slope that is too steep for safety. When on slopes, slow down and make sure you have good footing. Never permit the tiller to freewheel down slopes.
18. Never allow bystanders near the unit.
19. Only use attachments and accessories that are approved by Garden Way Inc.
20. Use tiller attachments and accessories when recommended.
21. Don’t use the tiller in bad visibility or poor light.
22. Never operate the tiller if you are tired, or under the influence of alcohol, drugs or medication.
23. Operators shall not tamper with the engine-gover nor settings on the machine; the governor controls the maximum safe operating speed to protect the engine and all moving parts from damage caused by over speed. Authorized service shall be sought if a prob lem exists.
24. Do not touch engine parts which may be hot from operation. Let parts cool down sufficiently.
25. The battery on electric start model tillers contains sulfuric acid. Avoid contact with skin, eyes, or cloth ing. Keep out of the reach of children.
Antidote-External Contact; Flush immediately
with lots of water.
Antidote-Internal: Drink large quantities of water or
milk. Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten eggs
or vegetable oil. Call a doctor immediately.
Antidote-Eye Contact: Flush with water for 15
minutes. Get prompt medical attention.
26. Batteries produce explosive gases. Keep sparks, flame, and smoking materials away. Ventilate when charging batteries or when using a battery in an en closed space. ALWAYS wear safety goggles when working near batteries.
27. Please remember; You can always stop the tines and wheels by releasing the Forward Clutch Lever or the Maneuvering Clutch Lever (whichever lever you have engaged) or by moving the Throttle Control Lever to STOP.
28. To load or unload the tiller, see the instructions in Section 4 of this Manual.
29. Use extreme caution when reversing or pulling the machine towards you.
30. Start the engine carefully according to instructions and with feet well away from the tines.
31. Never pick up or carry a machine while the en gine is running.
Page 8

MAINTENANCE AND STORAGE

1. Keep the tiller, attachments and accessories
in safe working condition.
2. Check all nuts, bolts, and screws at frequent intervals for proper tightness to be sure the equipment is in safe working condition.
3. Never store the tiller with fuel in the fuel tank in side a building where fumes may reach an open flame or spark (hot water and space heaters, fur naces, clothes dryers, stoves, electric motors, etc.).
4. Allow the engine to cool before storing it.
5. To reduce the chances of a fire hazard, keep the engine free of grass, leaves, or excessive grease.
6. Store gasoline in a cool, well-ventilated area, safely away from any spark or flame-producing equipment. Store gasoline in an approved con tainer, safely away from the reach of children.
7. Refer to the Tiller and Engine Maintenance section of this Manual for instructions if the tiller is to be stored for an extended period.
8. Never perform maintenance while the engine is running or the spark plug wire is connected, ex cept when specifically instructed to do so.
9. If the fuel tank has to be drained, do this out doors.

DECALS

If any of the decals below become illegible, damaged, or missing, contact us or your authorized
dealer immediately for a replacement. Use the appropriate part number noted in your Parts Catalog.
Control Panel Decal (located on upper handlebars);
All Models
Starting Stabilization Decal (on top of engine or on air cieaner)
Warning - Belt Positions (on beit cover - not shown)
Econo-Horse Model only
Ail Models
Photo 1-1: Pony Model shown
Page 9

Section 2: Easy Assembly

Please follow the steps in this Section to assemble your ECONO-HORSE™, PONY® or JUNIOR®
Model tiller and prepare it for use. Due to assembly similarities, we show one model in the as sembly photos to represent the three tiller models. Steps unique to any single model(s) are noted. These steps will not take long and will assure correct assembly of your new tiller. We recommend you read this Section all the way through first. Then begin the assembly steps.

STEP1: UNPACKING AND LOOSE PARTS

Your tiller was shipped fully assembled except for the parts shown in Photos 2-1 and 2-2. The small
hardware items are inside a plastic bag within the literature package.
If you ordered an electric start PONY® Model Tiller, you also get a second plastic bag with electric
start parts and hardware - it is near the battery. The battery will be in place on its platform or in its own carton. These parts are called out later in this section.
___ __ __ ___ __ __ _
WHEEL GEAR CABLE (Except Junior Model)
MANEUVERING CLUTCH LEVER
HANDLEBARS
FORWARD CLUTCH ROD
Photo 2-1: Contents of the shipping carton.
ENGINE THROTTLE CABLE
Pony Model shown
The items in the following list are found in your
hardware bag. They are keyed to Photo 2-2.
1. One Handlebar Height Adjustment Handle.
2. One keyed washer.
3. Four plastic tie straps (Junior requires two).
4. Three hairpin cotters.
5. Two 3/8" -16x1" hex head bolts.
6. Two 3/8" flat washers.
7. Two 3/8" -16 nylon insert lock nuts.
8. One Engine Throttle Lever Knob.
9. Four #10 - 32 X 1/2" slotted head screws
(Junior requires two).
10. Four #10 lockwashers (Junior requires two).
11. Four #10 - 32 nuts (Junior requires two).
12. One Wheel Gear Lever knob (Econo-Horse
and Pony).
(See detailed hardware list)
Photo 2-2: Contents of Hardware Package.
Page 10
Compare the parts that you received to those shown in Photos 2-1 and 2-2. If you are missing any
items, please call us at one of the telephone numbers listed on page 3 of this Manual.
If you notice any freight damage, either at the time of delivery or later during assembly, contact the freight terminal and tell them you will be filing a written claim (do so within 15 days). The terminal will advise you as to how to proceed. However, if you meet any problems with this procedure, please call us so we can provide assistance.
Before you attempt to move the tiller off the shipping carton platform, please install the handlebars (Step 2). With the handlebars installed, you’ll have better leverage and be more easily able to move the
tiller to a level area so you can continue assembly. (Discard all rubber bands securing the handlebars.)
You’ll need the following tools to assemble your tiller;
1. Two 9/16" wrenches. *
2. One medium-size flat blade screwdriver.
3. One open end 3/8" wrench.*
4. Scissors (to trim the plastic ties).
5. One 7/16" wrench (electric models only).*
7. Automotive-type tire pressure gauge.
8. Ruler.
9. Sturdy wood box or block 2-1/2"-3-1/2" high
(Junior Model only).
* You may substitute adjustable wrenches.
6. A piece of wood to tap the knobs securely on
the control levers.

To Remove Tiller From Shipping Platform:

Before moving the tiller off its shipping platform, you must move the Wheel Gear Lever (on
Econo-Horse and Pony models) to the “DISEN
%
GAGE” position. For shipping purposes, the Wheel Gear Cable is wrapped around the trans
mission tube, between the engine and the tine hood. Unwrap the Wheel Gear Cable and move
the Wheel Gear Lever at the end of the cable to
its “DISENGAGE” position as shown in Photo
2-3. On the Junior Model, a Wheel Drive Pin
must be removed from the hub of each wheel,
the wheels moved inward as far as possible, and the Wheel Drive Pins replaced through the wheel shaft holes and secured with their cotter pins.
Each wheel is then free to turn on the wheel
shaft. See Inset Photo at right.
Photo 2-3: Pull the Wheel Gear Lever back to “Disengage” position on Econo-Horse and Pony models. Inset Photo shows Wheel Drive Pins that
r ■i- W.
need to be moved on the Junior Model.

STEP 2: ATTACHING THE HANDLEBARS

1. On electric start models only, remove one of
the bolts and lockwashers that secures the lower end of the curved height adjustment bracket to the back of the transmission. Loosen the second
bolt so you can swing the curved height adjust ment bracket out of the way. See Photo 2-4.
T , s
Mb
Photo 2-4: Swing the Height Adjustment Bracket
down to one side (Electric start models only).
2. Remove the Maneuvering Clutch Lever from
the handlebars. See Photo 2-5.
-
Photo 2-5: Removing the Maneuvering Clutch Lever from the handlebars. Just slide it out.
Page 11
3. Place the lower end of the handlebars on the outside of the two mounting tabs on the top of
the transmission. Be sure the handlebar cross
brace (on the lower end of the handlebars) goes under the curved height adjustment bracket.
4. Secure the lower ends of the handlebar to the two mounting tabs with a 3/8"-16 x 1" bolt, a 3/8" flat washer, and a 3/8"-16 nylon insert lock nut. Use 9/16" wrenches. Both bolt heads should be inserted from the inner side of the mounting tab.
5. On electric start models, move the curved height adjustment bracket back in place.
Reinstall the bolt and lockwasher you previously removed. Tighten both bolts very securely.
6. Move the handlebar up (or downward) to align the hole in the handlebar cross brace with one of
STEP 3: ATTACHING THE
MANEUVERING CLUTCH LEVER
1. Slide the Maneuvering Clutch Lever down
through the hole in the left-hand side of the han
dlebar control panel. Make sure that the Maneuvering Clutch Lever passes above the cross brace on the lower end of the handlebar.
2. Turn the Maneuvering Clutch Lever so the small bend on the lower side points inward.
3. Insert the lower end of the Maneuvering Clutch Lever into the hole in the pivot as shown in Photo 2-8. Secure the Maneuvering Clutch Lever in place by inserting a hairpin cotter down through the hole in the end of the Maneuvering Clutch Lever.
Photo 2-6: Attaching the handlebars.
the four slots in the curved height adjustment
bracket. See Photo 2-7. Place the keyed washer on the Height Adjustment Handle. Screw the handle into the hole in the handlebar cross brace. Make sure that both raised keys on the bottom of the keyed washer fit into one of the
four slots on the bracket. Tighten the Handlebar
Height Adjustment Handle securely. Also tighten
the hardware securing the ends of the handlebar to the two mounting tabs.
KEYED
WASHER lockwasher
Photo 2-7: Installing the Handlebar Height Ad
justment Handle.
Photo 2-8: Installing Maneuvering Clutch Lever.
STEP 4: CONNECTING THE
FORWARD CLUTCH ROD
1. Turn the Forward Clutch Rod so the small
bend at the lower end points inward.
2. Insert a hairpin cotter down into the inner hole
in the small bend of the Forward Clutch Rod.
7. With the handlebars installed, you can now easily move the tiller off its shipping platform.
Note: Out in the garden you may need to
readjust handlebar height again for comfort. See Handlebar Height Adjustment, page 21.
Photo 2-9: Connecting the Forward Clutch Rod.
Page 12
3. Note the four holes in the swivel plate on the shifting mechanism. The hole that you must in
sert the lower end of the Forward Clutch Rod into depends upon which handlebar height setting (on the curved handlebar height ad justment bracket) you have the handiebars set at. Refer to Photo 2-10 to determine which
hole in the swivel plate to use. For example: if you set the handlebar in slot number 1, then the Forward Clutch Rod must be installed in hole number 1 of the swivel plate.
c. If the gap is incorrect, reverify that the
Forward Clutch Rod is located in the cor
rect hole in the swivel plate. If it isn’t, move the lower end of the Forward Clutch Rod into the correct hole and then check the measurement gap again.
d. To reset the gap distance properly, you
must make a simple adjustment to the length of the Forward Clutch Rod. To do this,disconnect it from the swivel plate, then rotate it clockwise or counterclock wise to shorten or lengthen the rod. Reconnect it and measure the gap again as shown below in Photo 2-11. Adjust the length of the rod until the gap is within 3/16" to 5/16".
.-'s»
Photo 2-10: Handlebar Height setting and Forward Clutch Rod positioning are interrelated. They must both be set in the same numbered positions.
4. Insert the lower end of the Forward Clutch Rod into the proper hole in the swivel plate.
Secure it to the swivel plate by inserting a hairpin cotter through the outer hole in the small bend of the Forward Clutch Rod.
IMPORTANT
Whenever the handlebar height is changed, the position of the Forward Clutch Rod must be changed accordingly. Changing the han dlebar height changes the tension on the
Forward Clutch Rod. This tension must be
adjusted by relocating the rod in the appro priate hole in the clutch swivel plate.
To make sure the tension on the Forward
Clutch Rod (once connected) is correct:
a. Stand on the right-hand side of the tiller
and pull the Forward Clutch Lever up and
hold it in place. See Photo 2-11.
b. Check the gap between the “E-ring” and
the lower end of the bracket at the upper end of the Forward Clutch Rod. Refer to
Photo 2-11.The gap should be 3/16"-to­5/16". If you do not have a ruler handy, the thickness of five pennies is approximately 5/16" thick.
Photo 2-11: Carefully measure the gap between the Forward Clutch Bracket and the “E-Ring. ”

STEP 5: CHECKING THE TRANSMISSION GEAR OIL LEVEL

Once the handlebars are securely installed on
the tiller, move the tiller to a level area.
We have installed gear oil in the tiller trans
mission here at the Factory. However, you
should make this very important check to be sure that the gear oil level is still correct.
1. Make sure that your tiller is on a level area.
2. Lower the depth regulator lever to the second notch to make sure that the transmission is as level as possible. (See Photo 2-12.). NOTE — For shipping purposes, the depth regulator lever might be secured with a plastic tie. If so, before the depth regulator lever can be lowered, you must lift the hood flap at the rear of the tiller and cut and re move the tie.
10
Page 13
Photo 2-12: Move Depth Rcguldtor Level to second
notch.
3. Use a 3/8" open end wrench to remove the
transmission oil level check plug (on the left­hand side of the transmission). Due to dried
paint on the plug threads, it may require some force to remove the plug the first time. If the transmission oil level is correct, oil should start to flow out of the hole. If oil flows from the hole, your check is finished; reinstall the plug and tighten it securely with a 3/8" open end wrench.
Photo 2-13: Removing the transmission Oii Level
Check Plug. When the level is correct, gear oil will flow from this check hole.
Photo 2-14: Adding gear oil to transmission.
4. If no oil flowed from the transmission oil level
check hole, add SAE 140, SAE 85W-140 or
SAE 80W-90 weight gear oil to bring the oil up
to the correct level. Preferably use API rated GL­4 gear oil (GL-5 is permissable for small top­offs). Use this procedure:
a. Unscrew filler plug from top left-hand side
of transmission. Clean around plug first.
b. Insert a clean funnel into the oil fill hole
and slowly add gear oil until it flows from the transmission oil check hole.
c. Reinstall the transmission oil check plug.
Tighten securely with the 3/8" wrench.
d. Reinstall the transmission oil fill plug.
Tighten it securely by hand.

STEP 6: ADD MOTOR OIL TO THE TILLER ENGINE

The tiller engine was shipped without motor oii in it. You must add motor oil before starting the engine. (See Figure 2-15A and Photo 2-15B on page 12.) Use quality motor oil
with API classification SF, SG, SH, or SH/CD. The viscosity depends upon whether you have a
Briggs & Stratton or a Tecumseh engine, and on
temperature. See Pages 48-49 or engine man
ufacturer literature for oil recommendations.
To add motor oil to the engine:
1. Make sure that the tiller is on level ground.
Lower the depth regulator lever to the second
notch (placing the tiller in a level position).
2. Wipe the area around the dipstick or oil fill
tube clean so no debris will fall into the engine.
3. On the Econo-Horse 6HP Tecumseh engine,
unscrew the engine oil dipstick from the fill hole. See Figure 2-15A. Add oil until the level reaches “Full” on the dipstick. Do not overfill with oil.
11
Page 14
4. On the Pony 5HP Briggs & Stratton engine and on the Junior 4HP Tecumseh engine, re move the filler cap from the oil fill tube at the side
of the engine. See Photo 2-15B. Add oil until it
reaches the very top of the oil fill tube. Replace
the filler cap securely.
5. Snug the base of the throttle lever up against the bottom of the control panel. Install a lock­washer and a nut on each of the threaded ends of the screws. Use a 3/8" wrench and a flat tip screwdriver to tighten both screws.
Photo 2-16: Installing Engine Throttle Lever
Figure 2-15A (left): On 6HP Tecumseh engines, add oil and check the oil level with the dipstick. Photo 2-15B (right): On 5HP Briggs & Stratton and 4HP Tecumseh engines, add oil until it reaches the top of the oil fill tube. Replace the fill cap securely.

STEP 7: ATTACHING THE ENGINE THROTTLE LEVER TO THE CONTROL PANEL

The engine throttle cable (with lever) is
wrapped around the engine for shipping. Unwrap it and attach the cable as follows:
1. Locate two #10-32 x 1/2" slotted head
screws, two #10-32 nuts, and two #10 lock­washers in your hardware bag. Keep this hard ware at hand so you can attach the Engine Throttle Lever to the control panel.
2. Run the engine throttle cable alongside the right-hand handlebar.
3. Position the Engine Throttle Lever beneath the control panel. Insert the lever up through the slot in the control panel that is marked “ENGINE THROTTLE.”
4. Insert each of the screws through a “-i-” mark on the control panel decal. Align the holes in the Engine Throttle Lever base with the screws and be sure the screws go through the base.
6. Place the “T-shaped” Engine Throttle Lever knob on the end of the Engine Throttle Lever. Use the piece of wood to tap the knob until it seats firmly on the Engine Throttle Lever.
.. =•; ^ I
Photo 2-17: Install the Engine Throttle Lever Knob.
7. Move the Engine Throttle Lever forward and backward to check its movement. It should move smoothly through the full range of its travel. Please note there is a detent (a catch) at “SLOW.” This prevents you from unintentionally shutting off the engine when you are just trying to slow the engine down. If it is difficult to move the Engine Throttle Lever away from “STOP”, loosen both screws and move the lever assem bly slightly to the left. Tighten both screws and re-check the Engine Throttle Lever’s movement. Spend a couple of minutes adjusting this assem bly until the lever moves smoothly.
12
Page 15
8. Take two of the red plastic ties from the hard ware bag. Locate them as shown in Photo 2-18.
Space them about two feet apart.
The serrated side of each plastic tie should be on the inside of the loop when you wrap the tie around the handlebar and Engine Throttle Lever cable. Tighten each tie by pulling on the free end. Snip off any excess with a scissor.
Photo 2-18: Secure Engine Throttle Cable to Handlebars with two plastic ties.
STEP 8: ATTACHING THE
WHEEL GEAR LEVER TO THE
CONTROL PANEL (Econo-Horse and Pony Models only)
The Wheel Gear cable is wrapped around the transmission for shipping purposes. Unwrap the cable and install it as follows:
1. Locate the last two #10-32 x 1/2" slotted head
screws, #10-32 nuts, and #10 lockwashers.
2. Position the Wheel Gear cable along the side and up the left handlebar.
3. Position the Wheel Gear Lever beneath the
control panel. Insert the lever up through the slot in the panel marked “WHEEL GEAR.”
4. Insert both of the screws through a “-h” mark
on the control panel decal. Align the holes in the Wheel Gear Lever base with the screws and place the base over the screws.
5. Double check to make sure that the screws go
through the holes in the lever’s base. Install a
lockwasher and nut on each of the screws. Use a 3/8" wrench and a flat tip screwdriver.
%
Photo 2-19: Installing the Wheel Gear Lever. (Econo­Horse and Pony Models only.)
6. Place the Wheel Gear Lever knob on the end of the Wheel Gear Lever. Use the piece of wood to tap the knob until it seats on the lever.
Photo 2-20: Installing Wheel Gear Lever Knob. (Econo-Horse and Pony Models only.) \
7. Use the two remaining plastic ties in the hard ware bag to secure the Wheel Gear cable to the
left-hand handlebar. Position the ties as shown
in Photo 2-21. Remember that the serrated side of the tie should be on the inside when you loop the tie around the handlebar and Wheel Gear cable. After you’ve tightened the ties by pulling on the loose ends, snip off any excess.
%
%
%
Photo 2-21: Secure Wheel Gear Cable to Handlebar.
(Econo-Horse and Pony Models.)
STEP 9: ADJUSTING THE AIR
PRESSURE IN THE TIRES
To be sure of a good seal between the tires
and wheels, we’ve inflated your tiller’s tires
above the recommended operating pressure.
Before using your tiller, be sure to evenly de
flate both tires until their pressure is 15 to 20 psi
(pounds per square inch). You can check the air pressure with an automotive-type tire pressure
gauge.
Be sure that both tires have the same air pres
sure or the tiller will pull to one side when you
are using it.
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Page 16
If you have a standard start ECONO-HORSE™, PONY® or JUNIOR® Tiller, it is now completely assembled and ready to be used.

Please read the rest of this Owner/Operator Manual before you begin to operate your tiller.

You should become very familiar with, and follow all the safety rules, the tiller operating instructions, and the engine operating instructions at all times.
If you have an Electric Start PONY® Tiller, you will have to perform the following steps to assemble the elec tric starting system on your tiller.

ASSEMBLING THE PONY ELECTRIC START SYSTEM

Compare the parts in your tiller’s electric start hardware package with the parts shown in Photo 2-22. The parts listed below are keyed to the hardware items in the photo.
1. Battery (for shipping purposes, it is either se cured to the battery support bracket or in a pro tective carton).
2. Vent tube.
3. Screws and nuts (used to attach battery ca bles to battery).
3
O

STEP 10: BATTERY ACTIVATION AND CHARGING

NOTE
Your battery was shipped to you DRY. You must have battery electrolyte solution (battery grade sulfuric acid) added to the battery. You then must
have the battery fully charged before using it on
your tiller.
A DANGER
Electrolyte is a sulfuric acid solution.
Avoid spillage and contact with skin, eyes,
and clothing.
To prevent accidents, wear protective cloth
ing, rubber gloves, and shield eyes with safety goggles when working near battery.
Neutralize acid spills with baking soda and
water solution. Neutralize empty container with baking soda and rinse with water.
Photo 2-22: The Electric Start parts.
14
ANTIDOTE: External contact: Flush with water.
Eyes—Flush with water for 15 minutes and get
prompt medical attention.
ANTIDOTE: Internal: Drink large quantities of
water or milk. Follow with milk of magnesia,
beaten eggs, or vegetable oil. Call physician im mediately.
Page 17

A DANGER

BATTERIES PRODUCE
EXPLOSIVE GASES!
• Keep sparks, flame, and cigarettes away.
• Ventilate area when charging or using bat tery in an enclosed space.
5. Allow the battery to stand for thirty minutes. Then check the electrolyte level in each cell. If needed, add more electrolyte to bring the elec
trolyte level up to the “UPPER LEVEL” line on the battery. Do not overfill the battery as this could lead to flooding from the cells when the battery is being charged.
6. Charge the battery by following the next set of
instructions.
• Make sure venting path of battery is al ways open once battery is filled with acid.
Adding electrolyte to the battery and charging the battery can be dangerous. The sulfuric acid in the electrolyte can severely burn you or blind you. Also, a battery that is charging gives off gases that could explode if a spark or flame should contact the gases.
We strongly recommend that you take your battery to a TROY-BILT tiller dealer, a reliable service station, battery store, or farm equipment store where a trained battery technician can complete the job safely.
PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMPT TO ACTI
VATE THE BATTERY UNLESS YOU ARE
FULLY EXPERIENCED IN BATTERY SET UP AND CHARGING PROCEDURES.
To ensure proper activation of your battery, we suggest you review the following activating and charging instructions with your battery technician and make sure that he follows the instructions.
To Activate the Battery:
1. Place the battery on a level area away from any spark- or flame-producing sources such as a gas stove, heater, electrical switch, pilot light, (etc.).
2. Remove and discard the short sealing tube (if installed) on the battery side vent.
3. Remove the six filler caps that are on top of the battery. Leave the caps off while activating and charging the battery.
4. Carefully fill each of the six cells in the battery with electrolyte (battery grade sulfuric acid that
has a specific gravity of 1.265) until the level reaches the “UPPER LEVEL” line on the battery.
To Charge the Battery
To obtain maximum battery life, charge the battery by the following method until all cells are gassing freely. A battery is gassing freely when the surface of the electrolyte is covered with tiny bubbles.
A
When checking the battery for gassing, AL
WAYS wear safety goggles and use a flash
light to look down into the cells.
Failure to do so could result in serious per
sonal injury.
Be sure to follow all instructions given by the manufacturer of the battery charging equipment that is being used to charge the battery.
1. Hook up the battery charger and charge the battery approximately three to five hours at one to two amperes. Turn the battery charger OFF.
2. If the electrolyte level has fallen after charging, refill the battery with distilled water until the elec trolyte level reaches the “UPPER LEVEL” line on the battery.
3. After charging, reinstall the six filler caps on the battery.
4. Unplug the battery charger from the electrical outlet (or turn the battery charger OFF). Then disconnect the cables from the battery posts.
5. Wash any acid spillage off the battery with water. Then dry the battery.
DANGER
NOTE
• The battery and electrolyte should be between 60° and 80° F for best results.
• Do not add water or any other liquid to activate the battery.
15
Page 18
STEP 11: INSTALLING THE
BATTERY ON THE TILLER
Photo 2-23: Installing the Battery.
1. Use both hands to carefully place the battery on the battery mounting bracket. The battery posts should face to the rear of the tiller. The
positive (+) post should be on the left-hand side
of the tiller and the negative (-) post should be on the right-hand side of the tiller.
3. Use the two 1/4" -20 x 1 1/4" carriage bolts, 1/4" lockwashers, and 1/4"-20 nuts to secure the
hold-down bracket to the battery mounting bracket. Insert the bolts from beneath the battery mounting bracket, up through the battery hold
down bracket, and secure them with the lock­washers and nuts. Use a 7/16-inch wrench to
evenly tighten both nuts. Do not tighten the nuts
so that the tabs on the battery hold-down bracket
become bent.
STEP 12: INSTALLING
THE BATTERY CABLES
1. The Positive battery cable is already con
nected at one end to the solenoid which is mounted a few inches below the battery on a
post. You are to connect the loose end of the positive cable to the positive (-r) post on the bat tery. Use a bolt and nut from the hardware bag.
Use a screwdriver and a 3/8" wrench to tighten
the bolt. See Photo 2-25.

A WARNING

• Be sure that the battery is positioned on
the tiller as explained in Step 1. Hooking the
battery cables to the wrong posts could re sult in damage to the battery and other electrical parts.
• Do not touch the positive (-i-) battery post and any surrounding metal with tools, jew elry, or other metal objects. Doing so could cause a short circuit that could result in electrical burns or an explosion of battery gases.
2. Place the battery hold-down bracket over the battery. Center the bolt holes in the lower part of the hold-down bracket with the bolt holes in the battery mounting bracket. Make sure that the
Engine Ignition Switch is on the forward side of
the battery.
Photo 2-25: Attach Positive Cabie to Battery.
2. Slide the black rubber boot up the positive
cable and slip it over the positive battery post.
3. The Negative cable is already connected at
one end to one of the mounting bolts securing the solenoid to the post. This is the grounding point for the negative cable—connect the loose
end of the nega tive (-) cable to the negative bat
ii
...
tery post. Use the last nut and last bolt to se curely attach the negative battery cable to the neg ative (-) battery post.
Photo 2-24: Securing the Battery in Place.
16
Photo 2-26: Attach the Negative Battery Cable to the battery
Page 19
4. Use a 3/8" wrench to check the tightness of the upper mounting bolt on the starter solenoid. This bolt secures the Negative Cable to its ground location. Scrape away any paint between the cable and the bolt as this would prevent a proper electrical ground.See Photo 2-27.
Photo 2-27: The Negative Battery Cable must be se curely grounded to the Upper Mounting Bolt on the Solenoid.
STEP 14: CONNECT WIRING HAR NESS TO IGNITION KEYSWITCH
Slide the wiring harness connector over the prongs on the back of the Ignition Keyswitch, Your keyswitch has either a 3-prong or 5-prong design. See Sketch 2-29 or 2-29A.
STEP 13: INSTALLING THE
BATTERY VENT TUBE
1. Push the battery vent tube down into the vent
tube sheath. Attach the upper end of the vent tube to the side vent on right side of battery.

Awarning

Be sure that the vent tube does not become kinked, folded, or pinched when you install it.
Improper venting could cause the battery to explode, resulting in personal injury or prop erty damage.
Sketch 2-29: Connect the Wiring Harness to the Ignition Keyswitch. The 5-prong design is shown. Inset Sketch 2-29A—shows the 3-prong type which
you may have instead of the 5-prong type.
You’re now finished assembling the electric
start PONY® Model tiller.
Before you add gasoline to the gas tank and begin to operate the tiller, please read the rest of this Owner/Operator Manual so that you become familiar with the location of, and the operation of, the various tiller and engine controls.
Without starting your tiller’s engine, operate the tiller controls so that you understand what each one does. After you’ve done this, move the tiller to a safe, level area to practice starting the engine and maneuvering the tiller without actu ally tilling. Make sure that the depth regulator lever is in the “travel” position (one of the higher notches) while you’re becoming familiar with your new tilier.
Take this Manual along for ready reference while you’re practicing in case you have any questions about operating your tiller.
Photo 2-28: Installing the Battery Vent Tube.

Awarning

To avoid serious personal injury or damage to equipment, do not attempt to operate the tiller or its engine until after you’ve read and
understood all of the Safety, Controls, and
Operating Instructions in this Manual, in the
Engine Owner’s Manual, and in other litera-
ture you may receive.
_____________________
17
Page 20
Section 3:

Tillei’ And Engine Controls

Before attempting to operate your new tiller, become thoroughly familiar with the location of
and function of all the operational controls.
Practice using these controls—with the engine shut off—until you understand the operation
of the controls and feel confident with each one of them.

TILLER CONTROLS

There are four tiller controls you will be using when you operate your tiller. These controls are: the
Wheel Gear Lever (ECONO-HORSE and PONY Models only), the Forward Clutch, the Maneuvering Clutch, and Depth Regulator Lever. Refer to Photos below for the location of these controls.
/MANEUVERING
CLUTCH LEVER
ENGINE
THROTTLE
LEVER
FORWARD
CLUTCH ‘PADDLES'
DEPTH
REGULATOR ,
LEVER -
HANDLEBAR
HEIGHT
ADJUSTMENT
Photo 3-1: Location of controls on the PONY and ECONO-HORSE Models. (Pony Model shown.)
Wheel Gear Lever (Econo-Horse and Pony Models only)
This lever is located on the left-hand side of
the handlebar control panel. It has two positions:
ENGAGE and DISENGAGE (FREE WHEEL).
The ENGAGE position allows power from the
engine to turn the wheels and tines whenever:
a. The Forward Clutch is engaged, OR b. The Maneuvering Clutch is engaged in either
forward or reverse.
The DISENGAGE (FREE WHEEL) position
should only be used when the engine is not run ning. Use the DISENGAGE (FREE WHEEL) po sition ONLY when you are rolling the tiller to an other location.
BOLO TINES-
WHEEL
DRIVE PIN
AIR CLEANER
^ CHOKE
Photo 3-1 A: Location of controls on the JUNIOR Model tiller.
A DANGER
NEVER place the Wheel Gear Lever in DIS ENGAGE (FREE WHEEL) when the engine is running.
Having the Wheel Gear Lever in DISEN GAGE (FREE WHEEL) and then engaging the tines/wheels with either the Forward Clutch or the Maneuvering Clutch could allow the tines to propel the tiller rapidly for ward or backward.
Failure to follow this instruction could result in personal injury or property damage.
18
Page 21

To operate the Wheel Gear Lever:

1. Roll the tiller a few inches forward or back
ward while you gently move the Wheel Gear
Lever ahead to ENGAGE. Don’t force the lever into ENGAGE (see Pg 43 for lever adjustment).
2. To place the Wheel Gear Lever in DISEN GAGE (FREE WHEEL), simply move the lever rearward. You don’t have to move the tiller when you move the Wheel Gear Lever into DISEN GAGE (FREE WHEEL).

To Engage the Wheels in WHEEL DRIVE:

A. Make certain the engine is stopped and the
spark plug wire is disconnected.
B. Raise one wheel off the ground and place a
sturdy block beneath the transmission. C. Remove the hair pin cotter and pull the Wheel
Drive Pin out.
D. Slide the wheel outward on the shaft and re
place the Wheel Drive Pin through the hole in the wheel hub AND the hole in the wheel shaft. Replace the hair pin cotter through the Wheel Drive Pin, pushing the cotter pin in as far as it will go. See Photo 3-2A.
E. Repeat these steps with the other wheel.
%
4.;
Photo 3-2: The Wheel Gear Lever in “ENGAGE” po sition. Econo-Horse and Pony Models only.
Wheel Drive Pins (Junior Model only)
Both wheels on the Junior tiller are held in
place by a Wheel Drive Pin (Photo 3-2A). The
pins are used to engage and disengage drive power to the wheels. Before starting the engine,
the Wheel Pins must be in the WHEEL DRIVE
position. Do this by inserting the pins through the holes in the wheel hubs AND the holes in the
wheel shaft. This “locks” the wheels to the wheel
shaft, so they will turn when either the Forward Clutch or the Maneuvering Clutch is engaged.
To move the tiller when the engine is not run
ning, the wheels must be able to “FREE WHEEL”. To permit this, insert the Wheel Drive Pins through the wheel shaft holes only. When this is done, the pins will keep the wheels on the
wheel shaft, but the wheels will be free to rotate
as they are no longer “locked” to the shaft.

A WARNING

NEVER operate the tiller under engine power if the wheels are in FREE WHEEL position(Wheel Pins through wheel shaft only). In FREE WHEEL, the wheels will not
hold the tiller back and the tines could pro pel the tiller rapidly, possibly causing loss of control and serious injury or property dam age. Always engage the wheels in WHEEL
DRIVE position before starting the engine or engaging the Forward Clutch or Maneuvering
Clutch.

A WARNING

To avoid personal injury, do not lay the tiller on its side while adjusting the wheels. This could cause gasoline to leak from the fuel tank, resulting in an unsafe condition.
Photo 3-2A: Install Wheel Drive Pin through wheel hub and shaft for WHEEL DRIVE position.
To Engage the Wheels in FREE WHEEL: A. Repeat Steps A, B, and C of the previous
“Wheel Drive” engagement instructions.
B. Slide the wheel fully inward on the shaft.
C. Place Wheel Drive Pin through hole in wheel shaft only, as shown in Photo 3-2B.
D. Replace the hair pin cotter through the Wheel Drive Pin. Push it in as far as possible.
E. Repeat Steps A through D with the other wheel. Remove the support block.
Photo 3-2B: Install Wheel Drive Pin through wheel shaft only for FREE WHEEL position.
19
Page 22

Forward Clutch

This control is the two interconnected “pad
dles” that hang down beneath the control panel.
It is used to engage and disengage both the
wheeis and the tines in forward motion.
To operate the Forward Clutch:
Before engaging the Forward Clutch, first make sure that the Wheel Gear Lever (Econo­Horse and Pony Models only) is in ENGAGE. On
the Junior Model, the Wheel Drive Pins must be through the holes in the wheel hubs and the wheel shaft. Then lift up on either or both of the “paddles” and hold it (or them) against the under side of the handlebar grips. As long as you hold
the “paddles” in this position, both the wheels
and tines will turn.
To stop forward motion of the tines and wheels when you have the Forward Clutch engaged, simply release the “paddles” and allow them to drop downward. Both the wheels and tines will stop rotating—the engine will continue to run.

Maneuvering Clutch

This control is located at the rear of the left-
hand side of the control panel. It is the rod hav ing a 90° bend and a black plastic grip.
The Maneuvering Clutch is used to precisely
maneuver the tiller in either a forward or back
ward direction. Pulling the Maneuvering Clutch out (for REVERSE) or pushing the Maneuvering Clutch in (for FORWARD) engages both the wheels and tines.
If you want to precision till near an obstacle, release the Forward Clutch “paddles” and push in the Maneuvering Clutch Lever. When you want to stop tilling with the Maneuvering Clutch Lever, release it—it will automatically return to NEUTRAL.
If you want to move the tiller forward for a
short distance or in close quarters, release the Forward Clutch paddles, lift up on the handle bars until the tines clear the ground. Then push
the Maneuvering Clutch in. To stop forward mo tion, release the Maneuvering Clutch Lever.
The only way you can make the tiller move in reverse is by using the Maneuvering Clutch Lever. Lift up on the handlebars until the tines
clear the ground and then pull the Maneuvering Clutch Lever out. The tines and wheels will both move in reverse direction for as long as you hold the Maneuvering Clutch Lever in REVERSE. To stop reverse motion of the tines and wheels, sim ply release the Maneuvering Clutch Lever.
Photo 3-3: The Forward Clutch.

A WARNING

NEVER move the Maneuvering Clutch into either FORWARD or REVERSE unless the Wheel Gear Lever on Econo-Horse and Pony Models is in ENGAGE. On Junior Models, the Wheel Drive Pins must be in
WHEEL DRIVE POSITION.
Placing the Maneuvering Clutch in either FORWARD or REVERSE when the wheels
are not engaged could allow the tines to
rapidly propel the tiller forward or backward. Failure to follow this warning could result in
personal injury or property damage.
20
i
A
• When moving the tiller in reverse, always look behind you to check for, and avoid, obstacles.
• Never attempt to till in reverse.
Failure to follow these instructions could re sult in personal injury.
WARNING
N
I
Photo 3-4: The Maneuvering Clutch.
Page 23
Depth Regulator
The lever at the rear of the tine hood is the Depth Regulator Lever. Pulling back on this lever and moving it either up or down allows you to control the depth of tine penetration in the soil.
When you move the Depth Regulator Lever all the way down (engaging the highest notch on the depth regulator), you put the tiller in the “travel” position. This position allows you to
move the tiller without damage to your lawn by
allowing the tines to clear the ground by approxi mately 1-1/2 inches.
When you move the Depth Regulator Lever all the way up (engaging the lowest notch on the depth regulator), you get the deepest tilling depth (approximately six to eight inches, de pending on soil conditions).
You should begin tilling at one of the shal
lower Depth Regulator Lever settings and
gradually increase the tilling depth and not attempt to till too deeply too soon.

Awarning

Handlebar Height Adjustment
To adjust the handlebar height:
1. Loosen both bolts at the bottom of the handlebar.
2. Loosen the handlebar height adjustment han dle until the keys on the bottom of the keyed washer can clear the slots in the curved handle
bar height adjustment bracket.
3. Move the handlebar up or down to the height
you desire. Align the hole in the handlebar cross
brace with one of the four slots In the curved handlebar height adjustment bracket.
4. Align the keys on the bottom of the keyed washer with the slot in the curved handlebar
height adjustment bracket. Screw the handlebar
height adjustment handle into the hole in the
handlebar crossbrace. Tighten it securely.
5. Retighten both bolts at bottom of handlebar.
6. Readjust the Forward Clutch mechanism by performing the following steps:
a. Remove the inner hairpin cotter from the
lower end of the Forward Clutch Rod.
To avoid injury, always place the Depth
Regulator Lever in the TRAVEL position be
fore starting the engine. This position pre
vents the tines from touching the ground
until you are ready to begin tilling.
...' i.i
t '.P
à-î''' f■ if:
.f'r’-'r'-' ■ ■; '
Photo 3-6: Adjusting the Handlebar height.

Awarning

When you change the handlebar height, you MUST readjust the Forward Clutch mechanism.
• When adjusting or checking Forward
Clutch mechanism, shut engine off, discon nect spark plug wire and prevent it from
touching the spark plug.
Photo 3-5: The Depth Regulator Lever.
Failure to do this could allow the Forward Clutch mechanism to operate improperly, which could result in personal injury or property damage.
21
Page 24
b. Use Photo 3-7 to determine which hole in
the swivel plate you should insert the lower end of the Forward Clutch Rod into. For exam ple, if you have the handlebar height setting at position number 1 (on the curved handlebar height adjustment bracket) insert the lower end of the Forward Clutch rod into hole num ber 1 on the swivel plate.
Photo 3-7: Handlebar Height setting and Forward
Clutch positioning.
c. Insert the lower end of the Forward Clutch
Rod into the proper hole in the swivel plate. Secure it in place by reinstalling the hairpin
cotter in the inner hole in the Forward Clutch
Rod.
d. To make sure that the amount of tension
the Forward Clutch Lever applies is correct;
(1) . Stand on the right-hand side of the tiller.
Pull the Forward Clutch Lever up and hold it in place.
(2) . Check the gap between the E-Ring and the lower end of the bracket on the Forward
Clutch Lever. The gap should be 3/16" to
5/16". If you do not have a ruler handy, five
pennies are approximately 5/16“ thick. Refer to Photo 3-8.
e. If you are unable to get the 3/16" to 5/16"
gap, you’ll have to readjust the Forward Clutch Rod as follows:
(1). Pull the Forward Clutch Lever up and hold it in place.
Photo 3-8: Measuring the gap between the Forward Clutch Bracket and the E-Ring.
If the gap is greater than 5/16". you’ll have to release the Forward Clutch Lever, remove the hairpin cotter from the inner hole in the lower end of the Forward Clutch Rod, move the Forward Clutch Rod away
from the swivel plate, and turn the rod coun terclockwise (as viewed from the front of the tiller) to decrease the gap.
If the gap is less than 3/16". you’ll have to release the Forward Clutch Lever, remove
the hairpin cotter from the inner hole in the
lower end of the Forward Clutch Rod, move
the Forward Clutch Rod away from the swivel plate, and turn the rod clockwise (as viewed from the front of the tiller) to in crease the gap.
f. After getting the correct gap, make sure that
you return the Forward Clutch Rod to the right hole in the swivel plate, then reinstall the hair pin cotter in the inner hole in the lower end of the Forward Clutch Rod.

ENGINE CONTROLS

Please read the following information about engine controls and operation. You should also read the
Engine Owner’s Manual that you received in your literature package.
Starting Your Engine—Recoil Start and
Electric Start Models
1. Check to make sure that the spark plug wire is
securely attached to the spark plug.
2. Make sure that the Wheel Gear Lever is in “ENGAGE” on Econo-Horse and Pony Models.
22
On Junior Models, there is no Wheel Gear Lever,
but the Wheel Drive Pins should be through the
wheel hubs and wheel shaft holes in “ENGAGE.”
3. Move the Depth Regulator Lever all the way DOWN so the tines are in the “travel” position (they should clear the ground by about V'^").
Page 25
4. Move the carburetor choke lever to “FULL
CHOKE” position on the 4HP Tecumseh engine
or the 5HP Briggs & Stratton engine (in the direc tion of the arrow on 4HP Tecumseh engines; to ward “Choke” on 5HP Briggs & Stratton en
gines). On the 6HP Tecumseh engine, push in the fuel primer button once or twice (providing the engine is cold; otherwise do not prime engine).
See Figure 3-9, Photo 3-10 or Photo 3-11.
Photo 3-13: Use starter rope to start engine.
Figure 3-9: Econo-Horse Model- fuel
primer button
on the 6HP Tecumseh OHV engine.
Photo 3-10: Pony Model­choke lever de sign on the 5HP Briggs engine.
Photo 3-11: Junior Model­choke lever design on the 4HP Tecumseh engine.
5. Move the Engine Throttle Lever (on the right-
hand side of the control panel) to “START.”
7. For Electric Start models, turn the Engine Ignition Switch to “START.” Don’t keep the switch in START for longer than ten seconds. You may have to try this several times before the engine starts — allow the engine to come to a complete stop before you turn the switch to START again. When the engine starts, release the key; it will automatically return to “RUN.”
8. After the engine is running, gradually move the Carburetor Choke Lever to NO CHOKE on the Junior 4HP Tecumseh engine or the Pony 5HP Briggs & Stratton engine. There is no choke lever on the Econo-Horse 6HP Tecumseh engine.
Starting the Electric Start Engine with the Recoil Starter Rope
If necessary, the electric start engine can be
started with the recoil starter rope. Before doing so, be sure to follow the procedure below.
1. If the battery is in good condition (not “dead” or damaged), keep it on the tiller. This lets it recharge during engine operation. However, be fore starting the engine with the recoil starter rope, make sure the battery is filled to the
UPPER LEVEL line with electrolyte.
2. If the battery is “dead” or damaged, remove it from the tiller and have it tested by a qualified technician. Before using the starter rope to start the engine, disconnect the positive battery cable from the starter solenoid. Reinstall it after replac ing the battery.
IMPORTANT-When starting the engine with the starter rope, turn the Ignition Key Switch to RUN. Also move the Engine Throttle Lever to START.
Photo 3-12: Engine Throttle Lever.
6. For Standard Start models, grasp the starter rope handle with one hand. Brace the tiller by
placing your free hand on the gas tank. Puli the starter rope slowly until you feel resistance. Then pull the starter rope out rapidly...but let it rewind slowly. You may have to repeat this procedure several times until the engine starts. When you pull the rope outward, be sure that nothing is be hind you.
Stopping the Engine
To stop the wheels/tines at any time, simply release the Forward Clutch “paddles” or the Maneuvering Clutch Lever (whichever one you have engaged).
1. To stop the engine on a Standard Start model, move the Engine Throttle Lever to STOP.
2. To stop the engine on an Electric Start model, you can either move the Ignition Key Switch to OFF or you can move the Engine Throttle Lever to STOP.
23
Page 26
Section 4:

Operation Of Tiller

Please be sure that you’ve read, fully understand, and always follow the Safety Instructions
(Section 1 ) and the Tiiler and Engine operating instructions (Sections 3 and 4) before you at tempt to operate your tiiier.
Take a few minutes to famiiiarize yourself with the basic operation of your tiiier before you
use it in the garden. Locate a ciear, ievel area and practice engaging the tiiier controls and run ning the tiiier back and forth. When you do this, make sure that the tines are in the “travei” po sition (Depth Reguiator Lever pushed aii the way down).
Only after you’ve become completely familiar with your tiiier shouid you begin using it in
your garden.
MANEUVERING CLUTCH
___ __________ __________________________________________
ECONO-HORSE and PONY MODEL Controls
WHEEL
_____
DEPTH REGULATOR LEVER
I
IGNITION KEYSWITCH
HANDLEBAR HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
(Pony only)
CHOKE LEVER
\
RECOIL STARTER
Photo 4-1: Operating your TROY-BILT Rototiller is easy and so rewarding. (Pony Model shown.)
24
Page 27

BEFORE STARTING, ALWAYS:

1. Check the engine oil level; add oil as neces sary to bring the level up to the FULL mark on the dipstick or to the point of overflowing if your engine has an oil fill tube.
2. Make sure the engine air cleaner element is clean and the air cleaner assembly is tight.
3. Be sure the gas tank has clean, fresh gasoline. The gas tank cap must be screwed on tightly.
4. Check the spark plug wire; make sure that it is securely attached to the spark plug.
5. Put the Wheel Gear Lever (on Econo-Horse and Pony Models) in ENGAGE. On Junior tillers, the Wheel Drive Pins must be ENGAGED through the wheel hubs and the wheel shaft.

TO BEGIN TILLING:

1. Make sure that the Wheel Gear Lever is in ENGAGE on Econo-Horse and Pony Models. On the Junior Model, the Wheel Drive Pins have to be engaged.
2. Move the Depth Regulator Lever to the de sired position.
When practicing with your tiller or when mov
ing the tiller to or from the garden, keep the tines in the “travel” position.
When tilling, you must move the Depth
Regulator Lever to the desired setting, increase
the engine speed, and then begin tilling.
3. Start the engine and allow it to warm up be
fore increasing the engine speed.
4. For forward motion of the wheels/tines, pull the Forward Clutch “paddles” up and hold them
up against the handlebars.
If you want to go forward in close quarters,
push the Maneuvering Clutch Lever in. The
tines/wheels rotate while you hold the lever in.
5. For REVERSE motion of the wheels/tines, lift the rear of the tiller up until its tines clear the
ground and then pull the Maneuvering Clutch
Lever out. Hold the Maneuvering Clutch Lever out for as long as you need to move in reverse. To stop reverse motion, let go of the
Maneuvering Clutch Lever. It will automatically
return to NEUTRAL.
Photo 4-2: When you reach the end of a row, slow the engine down and lift up on the handlebars to
raise the tines from the soil.
Photo 4-3: Use the wheels as a pivot point to balance the engine and tines. Push the handlebars sideways to move the tiller in the direction of the turn, and con tinue up the next row.

TURNING AROUND

Turning your tiller around is fairly easy. You should practice this maneuver before you take your tiller into the garden for the first time. See
Photos 4-2 and 4-3. The key to turning around is remembering that
the balance point of your tiller is the wheels. When ready to turn around, lift up on the handle bars to find where the engine and tines are bal anced. Then push sideways on the handlebar to move the tiller in the direction of the turn.

STOPPING THE TILLER AND ENGINE

1. To stop the wheels/tines, release the
Forward Clutch “paddles” or release the Maneuvering Clutch Lever (whichever control you have engaged).
2. If you want to stop the engine, move the
Engine Throttle Lever to STOP. If you have an electric start model, you could also turn the Engine Ignition Switch to OFF.
25
Page 28

CHANGING SPEEDS (Econo-Horse Model tiller only)

The ECONO-HORSE™ tiller has dual speeds for the wheels and tines. Changing the speed range is just a matter of moving the forward drive belt from one set of grooves in the engine-driven pulley and the transmission pulley to the other set of pulley grooves.
Use the LOW speed belt range for jobs which
need more power such as tilling sod and un
worked soil; or for tilling under cover crops or ex tremely heavy weeds. Your ECONO-HORSE tiller is shipped to you with the belt in the LOW
range. Keep the belt in this range while you are
familiarizing yourself with the operation of the tiller. After you’ve gained experience with the tiller, then you can experiment with the HIGH
speed belt range.
Use the HIGH speed belt range for situations like shallow cultivation, final seedbed prepara
tion, or for power composting heavy leaves, straw, hay, mulch, or composted material.
However, if the soil you are tilling this material into is very hard, you may have to return to the LOW speed belt range for better results.
There is a decal on the top of the belt cover that shows the belt positions for the two speeds.

To change from LOW Speed to HIGH Speed:

1. Place the Wheel Gear Lever in DISENGAGE
(FREEWHEEL).
2. Use a 1/2" wrench to remove the two nuts that secure the belt cover to the tiller.
3. From underneath the tiller, work the forward drive belt into the center groove in the transmis sion pulley.
4. Push up on the forward drive belt to get slack where the belt goes around the engine-driven pulley.
5. Work the belt into the forward groove on the engine-driven pulley.
ik
Photo 4-5: Removing Belt Cover.
REVERSE ENGI' ■ ■ IHIIII Nil
-DRIVEN PULL REVERSE
PULLEY
■ A..
ADJUSTABLE
LINK
(Underneath)\.^\
FORWARD
DRIVE B^UT
ENGINE
^ DRIVE
'V
.ADJUSTABLE
PULLEY
' FOg^EQ
Photo 4-4: Overview of Belts and Pulleys.

A WARNING

Before changing belt speeds, stop the en gine, allow the engine to cool, disconnect the spark plug wire and prevent it from touching the spark plug, and remove the
Ignition Switch key. Failure to follow these instructions could re
sult in personal injury or property damage.
LINK
TRANSMISSION I
PULLEY
Photo 4-6: Moving Forward Drive Belt into High
Speed Groove of Transmission Pulley.
A...
FORWARD 'A
DRIVE
ENGINE DRIVEN
PULLEY '
Photo 4-7: Moving Forward Drive Belt into High Speed Position on Engine-Driven Pulley.
------------
,
^ 1
llmm
a X ^
1
■■
i
f "
26
Page 29

NOTE

If the belt only goes part-way into the for
ward groove of the engine-driven pulley, pull on the start rope to turn the engine-driven pulley to force the belt Into the groove.
6. Reinstall the belt cover. Use the 1/2" wrench to securely tighten the nuts.

To change from HIGH speed to LOW speed:

A WARNING

Before changing belt speeds, stop the en
gine, allow the engine to cool, disconnect the spark plug wire and prevent it from touching the spark plug, and remove the
Ignition Switch key. Failure to follow these instructions could re
sult in personal Injury or property damage.
1. Move the Wheel Gear Lever to DISENGAGE
(FREEWHEEL) .
2. Remove the belt cover by removing the nuts on the back of the cover with a 1/2" wrench. See
Photo 4-5.
3. Move the forward drive belt into the rear
groove on the engine-driven pulley.
5. Reinstall the belt cover. Use the 1/2" wrench to securely tighten the nuts.
Photo 4-8: Moving Forward Drive Belt into Low Speed Position on Engine-Driven Pulley.

NOTE

If the forward drive belt will not slip all the way into the rear groove on the engine­driven pulley, pull the recoil starter rope while forcing the belt to the rear.
4. From underneath the tiller, work the forward
drive belt from the center groove on the trans mission pulley to the rear groove.

TILLING IN THE GARDEN

Guiding Your Tiller
While tilling, relax and let the wheels pull the
tiller along while the tines do the digging. Walk
alongside the tiller on the side that is not yet fin ished (to avoid making footprints in the just-tilled
soil) and lightly, but securely grip the handlebar with one hand.
Please do not push down on the handlebars in
an attempt to force the tiller to dig deeper. Do ing so takes the weight off the wheels, reduces
traction, and causes the tines to attempt to pro
pel the tiller instead of just digging. This can
cause the tiller to skip rapidly across the garden.
Sometimes slight downward pressure on the
handlebars will help get through a particularly
tough section of sod or unbroken ground, but in
most cases this won’t be necessary at all.
Photo 4-9: Moving Forward Drive Belt into Low Speed Position on the Transmission Pulley.
Tilling Depths
When you start to till in the garden, remember to take it easy. Don’t try to take too deep a cut in the first pass through sod or hard ground that
has not been tilled for years.
It’s almost impossible to get down four or five inches on the first pass through untilled soil. In very hard, dry soil, you should start tilling at a very shallow depth regulator setting, only an inch or two deep for the first time. In each succeeding pass, you can go down a few more inches, grad ually working down to the depth you want (water ing your garden a few days prior to tilling will make the going much easier). At any time, if you have difficulty getting down really deep, let the newly worked soil set for a day or two. When you return to it, the tilling will be easier.
27
Page 30
It is best not to work the soil when it is too soggy or wet. Doing so will make too many clumps that won’t break up very easily. If time will permit, always wait a day or so after heavy rains for the ground to dry.
In most soils, it’s best to start out at the third or fourth notch of the depth regulator to break through the upper inch or two of soil. The fastest method is to till as deep as you can without mak ing the tiller jump when it hits rocks, etc., but you should wait until you are very familiar with the tiller’s operation before you use that procedure.
When you are cultivating your garden, the
tines should be adjusted to till to a depth of just
1-1/2" to 2" so they won’t injure your plants’ roots, which grow close to the surface. If you no
tice the tines are digging too deeply (even when in the highest notch), then you may have to lift up on the handlebars slightly. Also use the high speed belt range (Econo-Horse Model only) when cultivating, as the faster wheel and tine speeds prevent the tiller from digging too deeply.
■ «3-
g. ‘"jE*
f.
?*.>■... --
Sketch 4-12. Again, overlap each pass to really pulverize the entire garden area. (In very hard ground, it might take three or four passes before
you make much headway.)
4
■H
Sketch 4-12: Tilling pattern for unbroken ground.
If your garden is not wide enough to till length
wise and then crosswise, then you should first overlap by one-half a tiller width, followed by successive passes at one-quarter tiller width. This overlapping method will assure you of thor oughly breaking up the ground—See Sketch 4-13.
—HI-- --nr-Tr"|- _______
'■ msir - ■iri -
....
..........
....
- .'V' ~ '
Photo 4-10: Cultivating.
Tilling Patterns
When preparing a seedbed, go over the same path twice in the first row, then overlap one-half a tiller width on the succeeding passes—see Sketch 4-11. After going up and down the rows
in one direction, make a second pass at a right
angle across your earlier passes—refer to
Sketch 4-11: This is the tilling pattern recommended for previously worked soil. Overlap each row one-half
a tiller width.
Sketch 4-13: Tilling pattern for narrow strips.
If you plan your garden carefully, you can allow enough room between rows to cultivate, as shown in Sketch 4-14. The Econo-Horse has a tilling width of 18" (the Pony 16", and the Junior
14"), so leave that much distance between the rows, plus enough extra plant growing room
above ground. Remember some crops take lots of room-like beans, tomatoes, and peas.
Sketch 4-14: Cultivate between plants to uproot un wanted weeds.
28
Page 31
Choosing Wheel and Tine Speeds
With a little experimenting, you can soon find the proper tilling depth, engine throttle setting, and wheel and tine speeds that are just right for the piece of soil on which you are working. What this means is:
1. You advance the throttle lever on the handle bars to keep the engine running at a sufficient
power level to do the job. Don’t run your engine at full throttle all of the time. Instead, try to judge when the engine is providing the proper amount of power—not too little, but not too much.
Matching engine power to the work is easier on the engine and on the tiller. The sound of your
engine operating will be your best guide.
2. You have the depth regulator set in a notch
which is not so deep that it causes the engine to
labor or the tiller to jump.
3. You have the tines turning over fast enough to
really break up the soil with a minimum number
of passes. Faster engine and wheel speeds may
be desirable to break up the last bits of soil or vegetation when you are making final passes, or when you are cultivating.
By the way, try to give your engine a “rest” pe
riod during tilling operations by every so often let
ting it run at low idle for a minute or two— without
any load on it. This practice of giving your engine a break while you pick up rocks, prepare to start a new row, or when just pausing for a moment will improve fuel economy and add years to the life of
your engine.
When your tiller is working properly, you can hear that the engine is not laboring very hard and see that the tines are breaking up the soil into small, thoroughly tilled bits.
Remember that the wheels have two func
tions. First they power the tiller in forward or in
reverse. Also, they turn much slower than the tines, thus holding the tiller back while the tines dig. Because the separately geared tines revolve much faster than the wheels, they can easily chop up, shred and bury organic material. The tine hood aids in this process as sod, soil and vegetation are thrown up against it by the revolv
ing tines, where it is trapped momentarily before being further broken up and put back in the gar den.
Avoid Making Footprints
When making final tilling or cultivating passes,
always try to walk alongside the tiller on the side
that is not yet finished. If the ground has been
well prepared, you can easily walk alongside while guiding your tiller with one hand.
Eliminating footprints contributes much more
than just good appearance to your garden. It aids in preventing soil erosion and avoids “plant ing” unwanted weed seeds right back in your newly tilled ground. It also leaves your soil nice and loose, so that vegetable roots can penetrate it easily.
'1
/- ,»?-b • * 7 ‘
Ш
Clearing Debris from the Tine Area
Your Bolo Tines have a self-cleaning action which just about eliminates most tangling in the tines. But occasionally, dried out grass, stringy
stalks, or tough vines may become tangled. If this happens, lift the tines out of the soil and run your tiller in reverse for a few feet. This reverses the direction of the tines and should unwind a
good deal of debris.
It isn’t necessary to remove all the residue, but
don’t let it build up to a point where it chokes off the action of the tines. If reversing the tiller
doesn’t work, then STOP the machine and en
gine and remove the tangled material by hand. A
small pocket knife or linoleum knife will help you
cut away the material.
A
Before unclogging the tines, stop the en gine, disconnect the spark plug wire and keep it from touching the spark plug, re move the Engine Ignition key and allow the engine and muffler to cool.
Failure to follow these instructions could re sult in personal injury or property damage.
WARNING
Photo 4-15: Try to avoid leaving footprints.
29
Page 32
Normally, you can avoid most tangling prob
lems by setting the depth regulator deep enough to get maximum “chopping” action as the tines chop the material against the ground, and by till ing under crop residues or cover crops while they are still green, moist and tender.
Also, you might try swaying the handlebars
from side to side (about 6" to 12") while continu
ing to power compost. This “fishtailing” action
often clears the debris out of the tines.
Power Composting
It is essential that a garden be fed something if it is to be bountiful year after year in the same location. You must replenish the plant nutrients— primarily nitrogen, phosphorous and potas sium— that you took away from the soil in the form of harvested vegetables and fruits. The first place to begin is with crop residues, which in clude leftover leaves, vines, stems and roots.
Power compost these crop residues directly into your garden soil as soon as they finish bear ing. The sooner this is done, the better. Tender green matter not only tills in easier, but provides that much more good food for the earthworms and other beneficial forms of soil life.
Standing cornstalks of reasonable height can
be power composted. Pushing over (but not up rooting) tall cornstalks will often make it easier for your tiller to chop up the stalks. Keep the tines clear of excessive tangling by “fishtailing” or
frequently using Reverse. Make several passes, then return a few days later to finish off any re
maining stubble.
"• * k,»
After all the power composting has been done, you should plant a “green manure” cover crop to protect your soil during the off-season. Green manures are also called “cover crops” or “catch crops”. You simply grow a crop of clover, alfalfa, buckwheat, peas, beans, rye grass, grain, or kale and then later till it into the soil, thus adding
far more nutrients than you have taken out.
Using Reverse To Help Turn
Around in Tight Areas
Using your tiller near obstacles like fences,
stone walls, sheds or trees needn’t be a problem if you use Reverse to help you maneuver the tiller around and away from the obstacles. For example, turning around at the end of a row in the garden that’s very near a fence is easy. When at the end of a row, you can go right up near the obstacle, then engage the tiller in
Reverse while holding the handlebars up and
turning the tiller at the same time. Alternating briefly between going Forward and then in Reverse will let you complete your turn in a very small area.
n
■ v-vi- , *
■ Vlmm'v'
/^
p',:
>'■. '-'''¿'A.’'' i. J J
/
Photo 4-16: Tilling under cornstalks.
After ail the crop residues have been tilled
under, add more organic matter such as leaves, grass clippings and even kitchen scraps. This or ganic matter will decompose and add even more important nutrients to the soil to help plants thrive next Spring.
30
Photo 4-17: To turn around in cramped quarters, move
close to obstacle, then put the tiller in Reverse while lifting up on the handlebars (to raise the tines out of the soil) and turning the tiller.
Tilling Near Obstacles Requires Caution
Always be sure to avoid coming too close to
any obstacles (fences, rock walls, posts, build
ings, etc.) that could be damaged by your tiller, or that could cause damage to your tiller. Whenever possible, stay away from objects such as this. Tilling another few inches closer to an obstacle just isn’t worth the property damage that could occur unexpectedly.
AVOID AREAS THAT MAY HAVE UNDER GROUND CABLES, WIRES OR GAS LINES!
Page 33
Before you do any tilling with your tiller, please
find out if there are any cables, electric lines or gas lines that might have been installed under ground by a local utility company or by a previ ous owner of your property. If there are any lines, avoid tilling near them. This is an IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTION that should be investi gated fully until you know that you’re tilling in a safe area.

A WARNING

BEFORE TILLING, CONTACT YOUR TELEPHONE OR UTILITY COMPANY IF UNDERGROUND EQUIPMENT OR LINES ARE USED IN YOUR AREA. Their repre sentative will be glad to answer your ques tions and tell you if any of their equipment or lines are buried underground on your property.

Tilling Up and Down Slopes

If you must garden on a moderate slope, then the best way to do so is by planting rows up and down the slope. Tilling vertically in this manner permits you to use the entire area for your seedbed as well as to provide enough room be tween rows so that you can cultivate between them during the growing season (you lose these valuable benefits when you terrace garden, which is discussed next).
Whenever you are tilling vertically on the slightest slope, try to make your first pass uphill. Your tiller digs in much more deeply going uphill than it does downhill. The powered wheels of your tiller pull the machine up the hill to do your digging and also hold the tiller back while you go downhill to prevent the tiller from going too fast.
In soft soil or weeds, you may have to lift the handlebars up slightly as you go uphill. When
going back down the slope, overlap your first
pass by about half the width of the tiller.

Tilling Across Slopes with Terraces

Whenever a slope is too steep or too short for vertical tilling, it may be necessary to till across the slope laterally. The best way to achieve good
results tilling across the slope is to create ter races for your garden.
Terraces should be about two to three feet wide. This means you’ll be able to plant one or two rows of plants and till under crop residues
and cover crops, but there may not be enough room for cultivating with your tiller. (If you make
terraces too wide, you would be digging as much
as a foot into the uphill side of the terrace and you would end up trying to grow vegetables in the poor subsoil there.)
First, make sure that the slope is not too steep to till safely. Then start to terrace on the top of the slope and work down. In three or four
passes, your tiller can carve out a flat and wide enough terrace for planting, as shown in Sketch 4-19. Each succeeding lower terrace is started by walking below the terrace you’re preparing.
Photo 4-18: Tilling up a slope.
Gardening vertically does not involve much of a soil erosion problem, as long as you put in enough organic material to improve the moisture-holding ability of your soil, and if you avoid leaving footprints and wheel marks. Soil in this condition is loose enough to prevent pack ing, and is held together well enough by those organic materials so that it readily absorbs water.
Sketch 4-19: Creating a terrace in just three tilling
passes.
Make sure that you don’t till the last 12" or
more of the downhill outside edge of each ter race—See Photo 4-20. Keeping the soil unbro ken beneath the outside edge will help to pre vent terraces from breaking apart and washing downhill. It also gives you a walking path be tween the terraces.
31
Page 34
Photo 4-20: Leave the outside edge (12” or more) un broken to prevent erosion.

Tilling Across Slopes Without Terraces

If terracing isn’t practical for you, then you can
till laterally across a slope, although we don’t re ally recommend it. For best results, we urge you to till vertically up and down a slope, or create terraces.
First, make sure that the slope is not too steep
to till safely. Then, begin at the top of the slope and overlap half of each tilled path, always keep ing the uphill wheel in the soft, newly tilled soil. Doing so will help keep the tiller more stable across a relatively steep slope.

UPHILL TILLING NOTE

When tilling on slopes, be extra careful to see
that your engine crankcase is kept filled to either the FULL mark on the dipstick (6HP Tecumseh engines)or to the top of the engine oil fill tube (5FIP Briggs and 4FIP Tecumseh engines).
When tilling at the deepest settings and going
up a steep hill, the oil slants away from its nor mal level and can starve the engine of lubrication as the engine’s oil dipper may not be able to reach the oil due to its slanted level. Keeping the oil level at the FULL mark is very important for the protection of your engine.
To prevent engine damage from oil starvation,
check engine oil level at least every half-hour
during uphill tilling operations.

LOADING AND UNLOADING TILLER

A
Loading and unloading your tiller into a ve hicle is potentially hazardous and we don’t recommend that you do so unless abso lutely necessary, as this could result in per
sonal injury or property damage.
However, if you must load or unload the
tiller, follow the guidelines given next.
• Shut the tiller engine off before loading or un loading. Allow the tiller engine to cool, discon nect the spark plug wire and prevent it from
touching the spark plug. (Remove the Ignition Switch key on electric start models.)
•The tiller is too heavy (well over 200 pounds)
and bulky to lift safely by one person. To lift the tiller, two or more people should share the load.
• We recommend that you use sturdy ramps and
that you manually (engine shut off) roll the tiller
into and out of the vehicle. This will require as
sistance from another person.
• Ramps should be strong enough to support the tiller and the handlers. The ramps should provide good traction to prevent slipping; they should have side rails to guide the tiller up and down the ramps; and they should have a locking device to secure them to the vehicle bed.
32
WARNING
* •
• The operator and handlers should wear sturdy
footwear that will help to prevent slips.
• Position the vehicle so the ramp angle is as flat
as possible (the less the incline of the ramp, the
better). Turn the vehicle’s engine off and apply
the vehicle’s parking brake.
• When going up ramps, stand in the normal op
erating position and push the tiller ahead of you.
Have a person at each wheel to turn the wheels.
• When going down ramps, walk backward down the ramp with the tiller following you. Keep alert for, and avoid any obstacles that could cause you to fall. Position a person at each wheel to control the speed of the tiller. Never go down
ramps tiller-first, as the tiller could tip forward.
• Have wooden blocks handy to place on the downhill side of the wheels if you need to stop the tiller from rolling down the ramp when un loading or loading. Use the blocks to temporarily keep the tiller in place on the ramps while you get a firmer grip on the handlebars, reposition the tiller, etc. Also use the blocks to chock the wheels in place after you’ve tied the tiller down.
• Once the tiller is in the vehicle, move the Wheel Gear Lever to “ENGAGE” (on Econo­Horse and Pony Models) or be sure the Wheel Drive Pins are Engaged (Junior Model). This locks the wheels in position and helps prevent the tiller from moving. Then securely tie the tiller down.
Page 35
Section 5:

Tiller And Engine Maintenance

There are a few very important steps that you can perform in order to get the best perfor
mance and longest life from your tiller These steps are: frequent engine oil changing, frequent
air cleaner element cleaning and replacing, keeping the engine cooling fins clean, lubricating the tiller regularly, and keeping the belts adjusted properly.
You will be operating your tiller in a very dusty environment, often for extended time periods
at high temperatures. Proper maintenance is therefore very important.
__ __ _ __ _ _ __ _

A WARNING

Before performing any maintenance on your tiller, stop the engine, allow it to cool, disconnect the spark plug wire and prevent it from touching the spark plug, then remove the Engine Ignition key.
Failure to follow this instruction could result in personal injury or property damage.

LUBRICATION

Proper lubrication is an essential part of your maintenance program. By oiling or greasing the lubri
cation points shown in Photos 5-1 and 5-2 at regular intervals, you will be sure of the best performance from your tiller. Use ordinary clean engine motor oil (30 weight) where oil is called for. Use a good qual ity grease that has a metal lubricant added when possible; however, regular grease is acceptable.
Si ^*4!^
Photo 5-1: Lubrication points common to the Econo-Horse, Pony, and Junior Modei tillers.
33
Page 36
1. Remove one wheel, clean the wheel shaft, and apply a thin coat of grease. Repeat at the other end of the.wheel shaft.
2. Grease the back, front, and sides of the Depth Regulator Lever.
3. Oil the entire length of the Engine Throttle
cable (all models) and the Wheel Gear cable (ex cept Junior Model.) Just apply oil to the outside of the cables, allow it to work its way inside, and wipe off the excess oil.
4. Oil the threads on the Handlebar Height Adjustment Handle.
5. Oil the pivot points on the shifting mechanism.
6. Oil the handlebar pivot points.
7. Clean and grease the tine shaft on both sides of the tiller. Inspect the tine shaft for rust, rough
spots, or burrs; especially near the holes. File or sand any rust, rough spots, or burrs smooth and then coat the tine shaft ends with grease to
make future removal easier.
8. Carefully oil the idler arm pivot points. Be careful not to spill any oil on the belts or pulleys.

TIGHTENING NUTS AND BOLTS

A WARNING

Before inspecting or servicing the tiller, stop the engine, disconnect the spark plug wire and keep it from touching the spark plug, remove the Engine Ignition key and allow the engine and muffler to cool.
Failure to follow these instructions could re sult in personal injury or property damage.
It’s a very good idea to periodically check all
nuts, bolts, and screws on your tiller for tight ness. Loose nuts, bolts, or screws can lead to equipment failure, poor performance, or oil leaks. Most nuts, bolts, and screws on your tiller are easily visible.
There are also three end cap screws on the
rear end of your tiller’s transmission that should be inspected for tightness. Gently tilt the tiller for
ward on its engine and support it in this position.
Lift the rear flap and tighten the screws.
Photo 5-2: Lubrication points on the shifting mecha nism.

CHECK FOR OIL LEAKS

You should regularly check your tiller for oil
leaks, both from the transmission and from the
engine. Look for signs of an oil leak by looking for a dirty, oily accumulation on the transmission and engine. Also look on the floor where you’ve been parking the tiller.
A little seepage around a gasket or oil seal is
not a cause for alarm. However, if oil drips while
the tiller is sitting overnight, then you should re
place the worn oil seal or gasket right away—first
try tightening any loose screws or bolts.
If your tiller leaks a fair amount of oil, you
should not run it until you have replaced the gas ket or oil seal. Ignoring leakage can cause ex pensive damage to the transmission or engine.
If you have problems with a tiller leak, please call
or write our Technical Service Department here at the factory.
Photo 5-3: Tightening end cap screws.
ADDING, CHECKING, OR CHANG ING TRANSMISSION GEAR OIL
Every 30 hours of tiller operation you should
check the transmission oil level. Also check the transmission oil level if you notice any oil seep age. If you allow the tiller transmission to run low on oil, increased heat buildup could cause ex pensive damage to the transmission.
To check the transmission gear oil level:
1. Make sure that the tiller is parked on a level area. Place the Depth Regulator Lever in the second notch. This is its most level position.
2. Use a 3/8" open end wrench to loosen the transmission oil check plug (above the left wheel axle, on the side of the transmission case).
3. If the transmission oil level is correct, oil should just begin to flow out of the check hole.
NOTE: Make this check when the transmission
is not hot. If hot, the gear oil has expanded and might give an incorrect reading.
34
Page 37
To top off the gear oil level in the transmission:
1. Follow steps 1 and 2 of “To Check the
Transmission Gear Oil Level” covered previously.
2. Unscrew the transmission oil filler cap (on top of the transmission).
3. Use a funnel and pour either SAE 140, SAE 85W-140, or SAE 80W-90 weight gear oil with an API rating of GL-4 or GL-5 into the transmission. Don’t use multi-viscosity gear oil, automatic
transmission fluid, or engine oil in the transmission. They are too light for transmission
use. They will
^ - ' ¡1 cause transmis-
Sion leaks and
i won’t protect its
> y
gear oil when it be gins to flow out from the transmis sion oil check hole.
5. Reinstall the
Photo 5-4: Adding gear oil to transmission. Stop when oil exits from check hole at the side.
6. Reinstall the transmission oil fill hole plug. Securely tighten it by hand.
transmission oil check hole plug and tighten it se curely with the 3/8" wrench.
To drain and refill the transmission:
The transmission gear oil does not have to be
changed unless you know that it has been con taminated with dirt, sand or metal particles.
You will have to drain the transmission gear oil
if you are making repairs to the transmission.
1. Place a prop underneath the tiller so that it will be supported when you remove the left-hand wheel.
2. Remove the hardware securing the wheel to the wheel shaft from the left-hand wheel. Slide the wheel pin out of the holes in the wheel.
Remove the wheel.
3. Position a shallow pan underneath the transmission gear oil drain plug.
4. Unscrew the transmission gear oil fill plug
Photo 5-5: Draining Gear Oil from Transmission.
from atop the transmission.
5. Use your 3/8" open end
pouring
wrench to take out the transmission gear oil drain plug from the left-hand side of the trans mission (beneath the left-hand axle shaft). Then remove the transmission gear oil check hole plug (on the left-hand side of the transmission above the wheel axle shaft).
6. Allow all transmission oil to drain into the pan.
7. When the oil stops flowing, tilt the tiller forward so oil will drain from the rear of the transmission.
8. After all the gear oil has drained, clean the threads of the transmission drain plug, apply a
non-hardening gasket sealant to the plug’s
threads and reinstall the plug. Securely tighten it.
9. Insert a clean funnel in the transmission oil fill hole. Slowly pour SAE 140 or SAE 85W-140
weight gear oil with an API rating of GL-4 only
into the transmission. The transmission holds ap proximately 3-1/4 pints (52-54 ounces). Slightly
tilt the tiller backwards to make sure the rear end
of the transmission gets filled with gear oil. When gear oil begins to flow from the transmission gear oil check hole, the transmission is full.
10. Reinstall the transmission gear oil check hole plug. Securely tighten it with the 3/8" wrench.
11. Reinstall the transmission gear oil fill hole plug. Tighten it securely by hand.
12. Reinstall the left-hand wheel. Remove prop.

CHECKING ENGINE OIL LEVEL

Keeping the engine oil level correct is very im
portant. Running your engine when it is low on oil is an invitation to expensive engine damage.
Check the engine oil level before using the
tiller. Also check it every five hours of operation.
If you are working in very dusty conditions, check
the oil level more frequently and change the oil
more often than the recommended intervals.
To check the engine oil level:
1. Move the tiller to a level area.
2. Move the Depth Regulator Lever to the sec ond notch (from the top). This puts the engine in
a level position.
3. Clean the area around either the engine dip stick or oil fill tube so no debris will fall into the engine. If your engine has a fill tube, take off its cap-the oil should be up to the top of the tube. Add oil if needed, then replace the cap. If your engine has a dipstick, remove it, wipe it clean, and follow steps 4 through 6 next.
4. Screw the dipstick into the engine all the way. Then tighten it finger-tight.
5. Unscrew dipstick. The oil level should be be tween FULL and ADD marks on the dipstick. Add proper specification motor oil (see pages 48-49 or engine literature for motor oil specs) to bring
level to FULL mark. Do not overfill.
35
Page 38
Figure 5-6: Checking the engine oil level on the 6HP
Tecumseh en gine on the Econo-Horse
tiller.
6. After checking the oil level, reinstall the dip stick. Tighten it securely.

CHANGING ENGINE OIL

Clean, fresh engine oil is essential for best performance and longer engine life. You should change the engine oil after the first two (2) hours of engine operation. After this initial oil change, change the oil every ten (10) hours of operation.
If operating under very dusty or dirty condi
tions, change engine oil more frequently.
Always use oil that is classified SF, SG, SH, or SH/CD, Use SAE30 weight oil when tempera
ture is above 32°F (Tecumseh engines) or 40°F
(Briggs & Stratton engines). Do not use SAE
10W40. For complete motor oil specifications for
your engine, refer to Pages 48-49 or the sepa
rate engine manufacturer literature sent to you.
The engine oil capacity depends on the model
tiller you have. Refer to the engine manufacturer
literature supplied to you for all engine oil capac ity specifications.
3. Place a board beneath the wheel opposite the drain plug you’ll be removing.
4. Place a pan beneath the drain plug.
5. Use a 3/8" open end wrench to remove the drain plug. Let the oil drain into the pan.
6. Clean the drain plug’s threads and reinstall it.
Be sure to tighten the drain plug very securely.
7. Refill the engine crankcase with fresh oil.
8. Check the engine oil level carefully. Depending upon the engine you have, use either the dipstick or inspect the level in the oil fill tube.

AIR CLEANER SERVICE

Your engine is equipped with an air cleaner whose purpose is to filter the air before it enters the carburetor. Frequent air cleaner service is essential for performance and long engine life.
The Econo-Horse and Pony have dual ele ment air cleaners. The Junior has a single ele ment air cleaner. All differ in service require ments as noted:
Econo-Horse (see Figure 5-8). On this hori
zontal-style cleaner, clean and re-oil the outer foam element every 25 hours; replace the inner paper filter every 100 hours or annually if 100 hours is not reached.
To change the engine oil:
1. Run the engine until it is warm and then shut it
off. Warm oil drains more easily and also carries
more of the contaminants away.
2. Note the drain plug which may be located on either side of the engine base.
Figure 5-7: Remove drain plug to drain engine oil.
36
Figure 5-8: Econo-Horse dual-element air cleaner— an outer foam filter (A) and an inner paper filter (B).
Photo 5-9A: Pony dual element air cleaner.
Photo 5-9B: Junior sin gle-stage air cleaner.
Page 39
Pony (see Photo 5-9A)-clean (do not oil!) the
outer foam element every 10 hours; clean the inner paper filter every 10 hours too, and replace it every 50 hours.
Junior (see Photo 5-9B)-replace the single
paper filter element after every 25 hours of en gine operation. Do not clean it or oil it.
General Guidelines for servicing all model air
cleaner systems:
Before removing the outer air cleaner cover, always remove any dirt or grease in
the Immediate vicinity—do not get dirt or
grease or any foreign materials in the carbu retor!
• Inspect the foam pre-cleaner (if your model comes with one) and the paper filter for signs
of excessive wear, tearing, or a loose fit.
• Wash the foam pre-cleaner only in a warm water / liquid detergent mixture. Do not use
kerosene or mineral spirits as they could damage the foam. Then rinse it in clear water and squeeze until it is dry (don’t wring it out). The Tecumseh 6HP foam pre-cleaner should
be oiled. The Briggs & Stratton 5HP foam pre-cleaner should not be oiled. (The Junior Model’s Tecumseh engine does not have a foam pre-cleaner.)

IGNITION SYSTEM MAINTENANCE

Your tiller’s engine is equipped with electronic ignition. It does not have either a condenser or points. Therefore, you do not have to perform any regular maintenance on this system other than checking, cleaning, and adjusting (or re placing) the spark plug as mentioned previously.

AIR COOLING SYSTEM MAINTENANCE

Since your tiller operates in such a dusty envi ronment, you should frequently check the en gine’s cooling system for any type of obstruction. Look between the engine cooling fins and the engine air shrouds, and under the blower hous ing for any trapped debris.
After the engine has cooled, use a screwdriver or other tool to remove any trapped debris. Do not remove the blower housing unless it is abso lutely necessary.

Awarning

Failure to keep your engine’s cooling sys tem clean will cause engine overheating and will lead to engine damage.
• Wipe the inside of the air cleaner cover and the top of the air cleaner base plate with a clean rag to remove dirt and grime. Don’t
knock dirt in the carburetor!
• Carefully install the foam pre-cleaner and paper filter inner element, and the outer
cover with its hardware. The fit of these parts
must be secure and correct. All parts must be reassembled as per the original assembly.
The performance of your engine is dependent
upon this. NOTE—In very dusty or dirty conditions, in
spect and clean the fiiter(s) more often.

SPARK PLUG MAINTENANCE

NOTE: Before you remove the spark plug,
brush or blow away debris from the top of
the cylinder head. This prevents debris from
accidentally falling into the spark plug hole.
Every fifty (50) hours of operation, remove the spark plug and replace or clean it. If cleaning, only scrape it—do not sandblast or wire brush it. Reset the gap to .030". See engine literature.

BOLD TINES

Your tiller has bolo tines to more effectively
shred, chop, and bury the organic matter that you are tilling back into your garden soil.
With use, these tines will become shorter, nar
rower, and pointed. When badly worn, they won’t be able to turn over as much earth as new tines.
Compare your tines with those in Photo 5-10 if
you should notice a loss of tilling depth or poor
power composting. If your tines have become
too worn, you should replace them.
MODERATE
NEW TINE
Photo 5-10: Checking Bolo Tines for wear.
WEAR
REPLACE
37
Page 40
Removing the Bolo Tine Assembly
Use two 9/16" wrenches to remove both bolts
that hold an individual tine to the tine holder.
A
Stop the engine, allow it to cool, disconnect the spark plug wire and prevent it from touching the spark plug, then remove the
Engine Ignition key before performing any
maintenance on your tiller.
Failure to follow these instructions could re
sult in personal injury or property damage.
1. Use a 3/8" wrench to remove the two rear bolts that hold the hood to the rear hood support.
2. Use a 7/16" wrench to remove the two forward
bolts that hold the hood to the front hood sup port. Remove the hood.
3. Remove the bolt and locknut that secure the tine assembly to the tine shaft. See Photo 5-11.
Photo 5-11: Removing the Bolo Tine assembly. The Econo-Horse model is shown. The Pony and Junior
tine assemblies remove similarly.
4. Use a rubber mallet to tap the tine assembly outward to loosen it from the tine shaft.
5. Slide the tine assembly off the tine shaft.
6. Repeat steps 3, 4, and 5 for the other tine as sembly.
Removing Individual Bolo Tines
You can either remove the bolo tine assembly
and then remove individual tines from the as sembly, or you can remove individual bolo tines from the tine assembly while it’s still mounted on the tine shaft.
WARNING
v;-
NOTE: You may have to use penetrating oil on
the nut to loosen it. Remember to always turn the nut, not the bolt head.
Photo 5-12: Removing an Individual Bolo Tine. Follow same procedure for all models.
CHECKING DRIVE BELT TENSION
On a new tiller (or if you’ve installed a new belt
on an older tiller), you’ll have to check and prob ably adjust the tension on the forward drive belt after the first two (2) hours of operation. This is due to the new belt seating in place.
The reverse drive belt, because it is used more sparingly, will probably not require an initial tension adjustment until a significant number of operating hours has passed.
After this initial adjustment, check the belts’ tension every ten (10) hours of operation.
Maintaining the correct tension on the drive belts is important to good tilling performance and long belt life. If a belt is too loose, it will slip on the engine and transmission pulleys. This will cause the tines and wheels to slow down—or stop completely—even though the engine is run ning at full speed.
A loose belt will also result in uneven wear and overheating of the belt sidewalls. This re duces its driving capability and shortens its life.
When checking the belts for proper tension, also look for obvious signs of wear such as cracks, cuts, or fraying. If a belt is in poor condi
tion, it should be replaced immediately.
A
Stop the engine, allow it to cool, disconnect the spark plug wire and prevent it from touching the spark plug, then remove the
Engine Ignition key before performing any
maintenance on your tiller.
Failure to follow these Instructions could re sult in personal injury or property damage.
38
WARNING
A
Follow the belt adjustment instructions care
fully. An incorrect adjustment could result in the Forward Clutch mechanism engaging too soon.
This could result in loss of tiller control and personal injury or property damage.
WARNING
Page 41
Checking Forward Drive Belt Tension
A
stop the engine, allow it to cool, disconnect the spark plug wire and prevent it from touching the spark plug, then remove the
Engine Ignition key before performing any
maintenance on your tiller.
Failure to follow these instructions could re
sult in personal injury or property damage.
This test for the correct tension on the forward
drive belt is the same check that you used when adjusting the handlebar height.
Please refer to Section 3, Handlebar Height Adjustment, for the correct procedures. If you get the 3/16" to 5/16" gap that is mentioned in the Handlebar Height Adjustment procedure, the tension on the forward drive belt is correct.
If you are unable to get the 3/16" to 5/16" gap when the lower end of the Forward Clutch Rod is in the correct hole in the swivel plate, your belt may be worn and you may have to make the secondary adjustment to the forward drive belt idler to take up slack. Please refer to “Adjusting the Forward Drive Belt Tension” in this Section.
WARNING
Photo 5-13: The guide mark on the Reverse
Adjustable Link (all models).
4. If the belt tension is correct, reinstall the belt cover and secure it with the two nuts.
ADJUSTING THE FORWARD DRIVE
BELT TENSION
Checking the Reverse Drive Beit Tension
A
stop the engine, allow it to cool, disconnect the spark plug wire and prevent it from touching the spark plug, then remove the Engine Ignition key before performing any maintenance on your tiller.
Failure to follow these instructions could re sult in personal injury or property damage.
1. Remove the two nuts that secure the belt
cover to the tiller.
2. Position yourself at the front of the tiller and
use your left hand to push the reverse idler arm inward as far as possible. While holding the arm at this position, look at the position of the belt
tension guide mark on the reverse adjustable
link. See Photo 5-13.
3. The belt tension is correct if the guide mark is
anywhere to the left (as viewed from the front of the tiller) of the pin. If the guide mark is aligned with, or moves to the right side of the pin, then
the belt is too loose and it must be adjusted. See
“Adjusting Reverse Drive Belt Tension” in this
Section.
WARNING
A
Stop the engine, allow it to cool, disconnect the spark plug wire and prevent it from touching the spark plug, then remove the
Engine ignition key before performing any
maintenance on your tiller.
Failure to follow these instructions could re
sult in personal injury or property damage.
To correctly adjust the tension on the forward
drive belt, you must first make certain that the lower end of the Forward Clutch Lever is in the correct hole in the swivel plate as described in Section 3, Handlebar Height Adjustment.
If, after the handlebar height adjustment has
been performed, you are still unable to get the 3/16" to 5/16" gap as described in that proce dure, you will have to make a secondary adjust
ment to compensate for the slack in the worn
belt. Do this as follows:
1. Remove the inner hairpin cotter from the lower end of the Forward Clutch Rod.
2. Unscrew the Forward Clutch Rod (counter clockwise as viewed from front of tiller) until the threaded upper end of the Forward Clutch Rod
protrudes slightly above the rectangular nut in
the Forward Clutch bracket. See Photo 5-14.
WARNING
39
Page 42
ONE OR TWO THREADS
PROTRUDING ABOVE
THE RECTANGULAR NUT
-RECTANGULAR
NUT
6. Push inward on the forward idler arm and re move the clevis pin.
7. Note the two holes in the forward adjustable link. Push inward on the forward idler arm and In stall the clevis pin through the inside hole in the
forward adjustable link and back through the
hole in the idler arm. Secure the clevis pin with
the hairpin cotter.
Photo 5-14: The correct distance to unscrew the Forward Clutch Rod-one or two threads above the
rectangular nut.
3. Remove the belt cover.
4. Slip the forward drive belt off the engine­driven pulley by pushing it off with your left hand while pulling the engine starter rope with your
right hand (pulling on the starter rope makes the pulley turn, aiding you in removing the belt).
m mñ
z ’ ^
%
IMPORTANT
While pushing inward on the forward idler arm,
make certain that the forward drive belt is pushed off to the right-hand side of the tiller. This creates more room to install the clevis pin when you push the forward idler arm inward.
8. Place the forward drive belt In the grooves of both the engine drive pulley and the transmis sion pulley. Be sure the forward drive belt is to the inside of the metal belt guide (on the right­hand side of the tiller). Also-be sure the forward drive belt is to the inside of the forward drive idler pulley (on the left-hand side of the tiller).
' WIRE FORM
BELT GUIDE
1..
FORWARD DRIVE BELT
Photo 5-15: Slipping the Forward Drive Belt off the engine-driven pulley.
5. On the LEFT side of the tiller (as viewed from the operator’s position) remove the hairpin cotter from the clevis pin that connects the forward idler arm to the forward adjustable link.
FORWARD IDLER
ARM
Photo 5-16: Removing the Clevis Pin from the
Forward Idler Arm.
40
FORWARD DRIVE IDLER PULLEY
Photo 5-17: Overview of the belts and pulleys.
9. Readjust the forward drive belt tension by fol lowing the instructions in “Handlebar Height Adjustment’’ in Section 3.
10. Reinstall the belt cover and secure It in place
with the two nuts.
IMPORTANT
With the clevis pin installed in the inner hole in
the forward adjustable link, you will be limited
in the number of future belt tension adjust ments you can make. When the time comes, in future belt tension adjustments, that you can not screw the Forward Clutch Rod any
farther into the rectangular nut in the Forward
Clutch bracket, you must replace the forward
drive belt. Before installing a new belt, be sure to return the clevis pin to the outside hole in the adjustable link.
Page 43
REMOVING THE
FORWARD DRIVE BELT
IMPORTANT: The Econo-Horse Model tiller has
two forward speeds and one reverse speed, so
its engine-driven forward pulley has two belt grooves and its lower transmission pulley has 3 belt grooves; the Pony and Junior Models have one forward speed and one reverse speed, so their engine-driven forward pulley has one belt groove instead of two, and their transmission pulley has two grooves instead of three.

A WARNING

Stop the engine, allow it to cool, disconnect the spark plug wire and prevent it from touching the spark plug, then remove the Engine Ignition key before performing any maintenance on your tiller.
Failure to follow these instructions could re sult in personal injury or property damage.
1. Remove the reverse belt by following the in
structions in “Removing the Reverse Drive Belt” given later in this section.
2. Move the forward drive belt completely off the forward engine pulley (this is the belt that’s on the upper pulley furthest from the engine). Then,
reach underneath the tiller and move the forward
drive belt fully off the transmission pulley.
1. Thread the new forward drive belt downward,
down between the rear of the engine-driven pul
ley and the forward drive idler arm.
S-
Photo 5-19: Installing the Forward Drive Belt.
2. Push the forward drive belt down and over the
front of the transmission pulley. If you need more working room, use a 3/8" wrench to loosen the belt guide on the left-hand side of the tiller and twist the belt guide out of the way.
3. Place the forward drive belt on the Econo­Horse in either the center groove or the rear
groove on the transmission pulley (put belt in
rear groove on Pony and Junior models). Then
work the forward drive belt onto the correspond
ing groove in the engine-driven pulley(upper pul ley). Make sure that the forward drive belt is to
the inside of the wire belt guide (on the right
hand side of the tiller).
4. If you previously loosened the belt guide, wait until you reinstall the reverse drive belt before
securing the belt guide. This is so you can center the belt guide on the reverse drive belt.
5. Reinstall the reverse drive belt.
6. If you’ve installed a brand new belt, check the
tension and adjust it after two hours of tilling.
Photo 5-18: Moving the Forward Drive Belt off the transmission puliey. The triple-groove Econo-Horse transmission pulley is shown. The Pony and Junior have a double-groove pulley.
3. From the top of the tiller, grab the top of the forward drive belt and pull up on it to remove it.
Guide it so that it doesn’t hang up on anything.
INSTALLING THE FORWARD DRIVE BELT
NOTE: If you are installing both belts, you
must install the forward drive belt first.
WIRE BELT GUIDE
Photo 5-20: The Installed Forward Drive Beit.
41
Page 44
REMOVING THE REVERSE DRIVE BELT
A
stop the engine, allow it to cool, disconnect the spark plug wire and prevent it from touching the spark plug, then remove the
Engine Ignition key before performing any
maintenance on your tiller.
Failure to follow these instructions could re sult in personal injury or property damage.
1. Remove the belt cover by removing the two nuts that secure it to the tiller.
2. Move the reverse drive belt off the reverse pulley (the pulley closest to the engine).
WARNING
INSTALLING THE
REVERSE DRIVE BELT
NOTE: If you are installing both belts, you
must install the forward drive belt before
you install the reverse drive belt.
A
Stop the engine, allow it to cool, disconnect the spark plug wire and prevent it from touching the spark plug, then remove the
Engine Ignition key before performing any
maintenance on your tiller.
Failure to follow these instructions could re
sult in personal injury or property damage.
1. Push the reverse belt down, between the re
verse pulley and the forward engine-driven pulley.
WARNING
Photo 5-21: Moving Reverse Drive Beit off the re
verse puiiey.
3. Push downward on the reverse drive belt. Reach underneath the tiller and move the re
verse drive belt off the transmission pulley.
^1.
' -
wr
1?-
Q
%
Photo 5-23: instaiiing the Reverse Drive Beit.
2. Loop the lower end of the reverse belt around
the transmission pulley and fit it into the front
groove in the transmission pulley.
3. Push the upper end of the reverse drive belt onto the reverse pulley. Make sure that the re
verse drive belt goes to the inside of the reverse
idler pulley.
Photo 5-22: Moving Reverse Drive Beit off the trans mission puiiey.
4. Pull reverse drive belt up, guiding it so that it doesn’t hang up anywhere.
42
REVERSE
DRIVE
BELT
Photo 5-24: The instaited Reverse Drive Beit.
A
7*-
Page 45
4. If you loosened the reverse belt guide when installing the forward drive belt, center the guide
on the reverse belt and tighten the hardware se curing the reverse belt guide to the tiller frame.
5. Reinstall the belt cover. Securely tighten the
two nuts that attach it to the tiller.
ADJUSTING REVERSE
DRIVE BELT TENSION
The reverse idler-pulley (on the right hand side
of the tiller) regulates the amount of tension that
is applied to the reverse drive belt. The following adjustment will allow the idler pulley to apply more tension to a loose belt.

A WARNING

stop the engine, allow it to cool, disconnect the spark plug wire and prevent it from touching the spark plug, then remove the
Engine Ignition key before performing any
maintenance on your tiller.
Failure to follow these instructions could re
sult in personal injury or property damage.
4. Note the two holes in the reverse adjustable link. Push in on the reverse idler arm and install
the clevis pin through the inside hole in the link and back through the hole in the idler arm. Secure the clevis pin with the hairpin cotter.
Photo 5-26: Installing Clevis Pin in inside hole in Reverse Adjustable Link.
5. Reinstall the reverse belt in the reverse pulley, making sure that the belt is located behind the reverse idler pulley.
6. Reinstall the belt cover and secure it in place
with the two nuts.
1. Remove the belt cover.
2. Slip the reverse drive belt off the reverse pul ley. This will create slack in the belt that will give you more room to work.
3. Remove the hairpin cotter from the clevis pin
that connects the reverse idler arm to the re
verse adjustable link. Then push in on the re verse idler arm and remove the clevis pin from the arm and link.
IMPORTANT
If, in future tests for reverse belt tension (See “Checking Reverse Belt Tension”, this Section), the guide mark on the reverse ad
justable link should again align with, or move
to the right side of the link pin, it means that the reverse belt is worn beyond adjustment. A new reverse belt must be installed. Before in stalling a new belt, be sure to return the clevis pin to the outside hole in the adjustable link.
WHEEL GEAR CABLE ADJUSTMENT
(Econo-Horse and Pony Models only)
If you should ever move the Wheel Gear Lever to “ENGAGE” and find that you can roll the tiller forward or backward just the same as when the Wheel Gear Lever is in “DISENGAGE”
(FREEWHEEL), you will have to readjust the
Wheel Gear cable. Adjust the cable as follows:

A WARNING

Photo 5-25: Removing Clevis Pin from Reverse Idler
Arm.
stop the engine, allow it to cool, disconnect
the spark plug wire and prevent it from touching the spark plug, then remove the
Engine Ignition key before performing any
maintenance on your tiller.
Failure to follow these instructions could re
sult in personal injury or property damage.
43
Page 46
1. Move the Wheel Gear Lever to “ENGAGE.”
2. Loosen the top adjustment nut on the Wheel Gear cable bracket. It is located on the lower left rear of the transmission. Loosening this nut al lows you to move the Wheel Gear cable down,
which in turn pushes the eccentric lever down.
Roll the tiller slightly forward or backward while
you are pushing the Wheel Gear cable down. When the eccentric lever has been moved down far enough so it engages (locks) the wheels, hold the cable in that position and tighten both
the top and bottom adjustment nuts.
% ? ■■
HIGH SPEED
THROTTLE
if CABLE
Tv
----
CLAMP
STOP
ARM
STOP
SWITCH
SCREW
-EeGEM^C
...5 4^ «-EVEm^
,4 -^TOP ADJUS'tiVIE^I
NUT
i: BOTTOM ADJUSTMENT Li
-..NUT
lit
Photo 5-27: Adjusting Wheel Gear Cable. (Econo-
Horse and Pony Models only.)
3. Move the Wheel Gear Lever to “ENGAGE” and then “DISENGAGE” (FREEWHEEL) several
times to check your adjustment. You should not
be able to roll the tiller when the Wheel Gear Lever is in “ENGAGE.” You should be able to roll
the tiller when the Wheel Gear Lever is in “DIS
ENGAGE” (FREEWHEEL) .
r
Photo 5-28: Engine Throttle Cable adjustment. The 6HP Tecumseh engine on the Econo-Horse Model is shown-but all engines are very similar.
If the throttle arm doesn’t touch the stop
switch as you move the Engine Throttle Lever to
STOP:
1. Move the Engine Throttle Lever to “STOP.”
2. Loosen the Engine Throttle cable clamp screw and move the cable over until the throttle arm
contacts the stop switch.
3. Retighten the Engine Throttle cable clamp. Lightly lubricate the cable with oil.
OFF SEASON STORAGE
1. Run the engine until all the gasoline is used. Do not store the tiller with gasoline in the fuel
tank because gum deposits could form on the carburetor parts and in the fuel lines and tank.
ENGINE THROTTLE CABLE ADJUSTMENT
The end of the Engine Throttle cable is fas
tened to the throttle cable bracket on the right side of the engine. When you move the Engine Throttle Lever to “FAST”, the throttle wire moves a control arm over until it contacts the high speed stop on the throttle cable bracket. By
moving the Engine Throttle Lever to “STOP”, the
throttle wire moves the control arm back so it contacts the shut off switch. This grounds the ig
nition and stops the engine.
If the throttle arm doesn’t reach the high
speed stop (engine doesn’t reach high speed);
1. Move the Engine Throttle Lever to “FAST.”
2. Loosen the Engine Throttle cable clamp screw and move the cable over until the throttle arm contacts the stop.
3. Retighten the Engine Throttle cable clamp.
44
NOTE: If “Gasohol” has been used in your
engine, refer to Engine Owner’s Manual for instructions on engine storage. Be certain Gasohol is OK to use in the engine!
2. While the engine is still warm, drain the engine
crankcase oil. Refill with fresh oil.
3. Remove the spark plug. Put 1-ounce of motor
oil in the cylinder. Crank the engine slowly to dis
tribute the oil. Replace the spark plug.
4. Clean dirt or chaff from the cylinder head,
blower housing, screen, and muffler areas.
5. Check all nuts and bolts for tightness.
6. Perform lubrication and air cleaner service.
7. For electric start models, charge the battery
and store it in a cool, dry place.
8. Cover the tiller and store it in a cool, dry place.
9. Remember-now is a good time to order re placement parts for the next tilling season.
Page 47
TROUBLESHOOTING -ELECTRIC START SYSTEM (IF SO EQUIPPED)
Starter Motor Doesn’t Turn Over
If your starter motor won’t turn over when you
turn the Ignition Switch key to “START”, it could
be due to one or more of the following causes:
1. Loose, broken, or corroded wires or cables.
2. Discharged battery.
3. A solenoid that isn’t working.
4. A starter motor that isn’t working.
5. An Ignition Switch that is broken.
6. A faulty wiring harness and / or a faulty
Ignition Switch.
IMPORTANT
Here are simple checks you can make. If these checks do not isolate the problem, call our Technical Service Department for further advice. Be sure to wear safety glasses!
1. Check ALL wires and cables. a. Make sure that all connections are tight.
b. At all connections, check for rust that would
prevent good electrical contact.
c. Make sure that the insulation on all wires
and cables is in good shape. Make sure that a
break in the insulation is not allowing a bare
wire to touch any metal surfaces.
d. After completing steps a through c, start the
engine. If it starts, you’ve corrected the prob lem. If it doesn’t start, proceed to step 2.
b. After running the tiller, shut it off and try to
restart it by using the Ignition Switch. If it starts, your problem was a discharged battery. If it doesn’t start, proceed to the next step.
3. Your solenoid is bad. Remove the negative
battery cable. You’ll be using it as a jumper wire. Make a temporary, replacement negative battery
cable by stripping about 3/4" of insulation from
both ends of a 12" piece of heavy-gauge wire (#10 or larger).
a. Make sure that both the Maneuvering
Clutch and the Forward Clutch are in their dis engaged position.
b. Touch one end of the removed negative bat
tery cable to the solenoid terminal identified as
“B” in Sketch 5-30.
c. BRIEFLY touch the other end of the re
moved negative battery cable to the solenoid terminal identified as “C” in Sketch 5-30. If the starter motor turns over, your solenoid is work ing. If the starter motor didn’t turn over, your solenoid may be bad. First check to make sure that the screws which attach the solenoid to the battery bracket are tight.
d. After tightening the solenoid screws, repeat
step c. If the starter motor still doesn’t turn over, please call our Technical Service Department for further advice.
e. If there was no spark when you jumped the
solenoid, it indicates that your battery will not hold a charge. You should remove the battery from the tiller and take it to a qualified battery technician for testing.
f. Remove the temporary battery cable and re
install the original negative battery cable.
2. Your battery may be discharged. a. You can allow the tiller to run outdoors for ap
proximately 45 minutes or longer to make sure that the battery is charged. Be sure that the bat tery is filled to the “UPPER LEVEL” line on the
battery before you start the engine.
Sketch 5-30: Touch ends of removed Negative Battery Cable to “B” and “C” to test solenoid. Touch cable to “A” and “B” to test starter motor.
45
Page 48
4. Your starter is not working. a. Make sure that both the Maneuvering
Clutch and the Forward Clutch are in their dis engaged positions.
b. Remove the wire harness receptacle from
the back of the Ignition Keyswitch. Clean cor rosion off the contact prongs on the back of
the keyswitch. Next, clean corrosion out of the
sockets in the receptacle (you may have a 5­hole or a 3-hole plastic receptacle).
c. Insert the ends of the jumper wire (that you
made in the previous step) into the sockets
Wire Harness
Receptacle may have 3 or 5 sock
ets (3-socket type
is shown).
Sketch 5-31: Ignition Switch Receptacle.
which have the red wires going into them.
d. If the starter motor turns over, your problem
is with the Ignition Switch. Call our Technical
Service Department for further advice.
e. If the starter motor didn’t turn over, you
have a faulty wiring harness and / or a faulty
Ignition Switch.
5. You have a faulty wiring harness and / or a faulty Ignition Switch.
a. You will have to purchase a continuity tester
or make one from two flashlight batteries, some wire, a flashlight bulb, and some tape. Refer to Sketch 5-32 to see how to make one.
b. Remove the wiring harness from the en
gine, switch, and solenoid. Test each of the red wires for continuity by placing the continu ity tester wires at both ends of a single wire of
the wiring harness. If the lamp lights, electric
ity is flowing and the wire is not broken. Repeat this step for the other two wires.
please contact our Technical Service
Department for further assistance. The prob
lem will be identified and the appropriate re pair will be suggested. Any parts you may need to order will be shipped to you promptly.
c. If all wires in the wiring harness are unbro
ken, you may have either a faulty ignition keyswitch or a bad ground connection. If so.
46
Page 49
BATTERY CARE / MAINTENANCE
(IF SO EQUIPPED)

A DANGER

Follow the battery safety rules given in Sections 1 and 2 of this Manual. Failure to carefully follow all Safety Rules may result in personal injury or property damage from such causes as an explosion of battery gases, acid burns, or electrical burns.
Care in Service
1. Once a month or every 10 operating hours,
whichever occurs first, check the level of the
electrolyte solution. Make certain it is filled to the “UPPER LEVEL” line that is marked on the bat tery case. If necessary, add distilled or deminer alized water to restore the electrolyte to the cor rect level. Never Use Battery Acid To Refiil
The Battery. Replace the battery caps securely
and wipe the battery top after filling. Then run the engine outdoors for about 20 minutes at 3/4­speed to recharge and recirculate the electrolyte solution. For safety, do not leave the tiller unat tended while the engine is running.
clamp as this could damage the battery case.
5. Periodically check that the vent tube is not crimped or pinched anywhere along its length.
Battery Storage
The optional electric start engine has a recharging circuit that will properly maintain the battery’s state of charge during the regular tilling season. When the tiller won’t be used for an ex tended period of time, we recommend that you fully charge the battery before placing it in stor age. Before reinstalling the battery after storage, give it a thorough recharge.

A DANGER

Batteries generate explosive gases. Keep
sparks and flames away from the battery at
all times. Ventilate the area when charging or using
the battery in an enclosed area.

A DANGER

Electrolyte is sulfuric acid solution. Avoid spillage and contact with skin, eyes, and clothing. Wear protective clothing and rub ber gloves; also shield eyes with safety goggles when working near the battery.
2. Keep the battery clean at all times. If you find corrosion on the battery posts or cable terminals, remove the battery and clean it with a solution of baking soda and water. (Tighten the battery caps securely before cleaning the battery and do not allow any of the baking soda / water solution to enter any of the battery cells. Be sure to clean any remaining solution off the battery.)
You can use a wire brush, sandpaper, or steel wool to clean the posts and terminals. After cleaning, coat the posts and terminals with
petroleum jelly or silicone grease to prevent new
corrosion from forming.
3. Periodically check the entire electrical system for loose or dirty connections.
4. Periodically check the battery clamp for tight
ness. It should hold the battery firmly in place. However, you should not overtighten the battery
CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT
The carburetor on your tiller’s engine has been adjusted at the factory for best operating speed and air/fuel mixture. Readjustment of the carburetor should not be necessary.
Operators shall not tamper with the engine­governor settings on the machine; the governor controls the maximum safe operating speed and protects the engine and all moving parts from damage caused by overspeed. Authorized ser vice shall be sought if a problem exists.
Changing the engine governed speed will void the engine warranty.
A
Do not tamper with the engine governor. It is set for proper engine speed.
Overspeeding the engine above the engine manufacturer’s recommended high speed setting could result in property damage or personal injury.
WARNING
47
Page 50
ECONO-HORSE TILLER SPECIFICATIONS
ENGINE
Type—
Tecumseh; four-cycle, single-cylinder, air-cooled, horizontal crankshaft, overhead valve, primer­button choke, solid state electronic ignition.
Horsepower—
6
Fuel Tank Capacity—
1 gallon.
Fuel Requirements—
Unleaded Regular or Premium Grade gasoline.
Engine Oil—
API Service SF, SG, SH or SH/CD. SAE30W oil above 32°F. SAE5W30 oil below 32°F. (SAE10W is an acceptable substitute.) (Do not use 10W40 oil.)
Engine Oil Capacity
21 ounces; however, always use the engine dipstick to verify that the level of the engine oil is correct.
Spark Plug Type
Champion RN4C only.
A resistor plug must be used for replacement.
Spark Plug Gap
.030 inch.
TILLER
Height—
Without handlebars:
Recoil Start Model With handlebars in low position With handlebars in high position
................................
.............
..............
24-3/4
38-1/4"
Length—
With handlebars in low position................64-1/2"
Without handlebars
..................................
46-7/8"
Width
Hood width................................................20-1/8"
Tilling width.....................................................18"
Width at top of handlebars
............................
Weight
Recoil start model
..................................
236-lbs.
Wheel and Tire Size
5.00 X 6"; 15-to-20 psi (pounds / sq. inch)
Transmission
Gear oil capacity: 3% pints (52-to-54 ozs.) Small Top-Offs: SAE 140, SAE 85W-140, or
SAE 80W-90 weight gear oil with an API rating of either GL-4 or GL-5.
Full Replacement: SAE 140 or SAE 85W-140 weight gear oil with an API rating of GL-4 only.
46-1/2"
20"
PONY TILLER SPECIFICATIONS
ENGINE TILLER
Type— Height—
Briggs & Stratton; four-cycle, single-cylinder. Without handiebars:
air-cooied, horizontal crankshaft, manual Recoil Start Model........................................24
choke, solid state electronic ignition. With handlebars in low position
Horsepower With handlebars in high position...................48"
5 Length—
Fuel Tank Capacity With handlebars in low position
3 quarts. Without handlebars
.........................................
Fuel Requirements— Width
Unleaded or leaded Regular Grade gasoline. Hood width
...................................................
Engine Oil— Tilling width......................................................16"
API Service SE, SF, or SG. Width at top of handlebars 40°F to 100°F: SAE 30W oil. Weight
0°F to 40°F: SAE 5W30 oil or SAE 10W30 oil. Electric start model
-20°F to 40°F: Synthetic 5W-20 or 5W-30 oii. Recoil start model....................................165-lbs.
.................................
Engine Oil Capacity Wheel and Tire Size
20 ounces; however, always fill to the top of 4.10 x 6"; 15-to-20 psi (pounds / sq. inch)
the oil fill tube. Transmission
Spark Plug Type Gear oil capacity: 3% pints (52-to-54 ozs.)
Champion J-8C (or equivalent). Canadian Small Top-Offs: SAE 140, SAE 85W-140, or models: RJ-17LM. SAE 80W-90 weight gear oil with an API rating
Spark Plug Gap either GL-4 or GL-5.
030 inch Replacement: SAE 140 or SAE 85W-140
weight gear oil with an API rating of GL-4 only.
................
....................
.............................
38-1/4"
16-1/2"
185-lbs.
62" 47"
20"
48
Page 51
JUNIOR TILLER SPECIFICATIONS
ENGINE TILLER
Type— Height—
Tecumseh; four-cycle, single-cylinder, air- Without handlebars:.........................................20
cooled, horizontal crankshaft, manual choke. With handlebars in low position solid state electronic ignition. With handlebars in high position
Horsepower— Length—
4 With handlebars in low position.................52-1/2"
Fuel Tank Capacity— Without handlebars
2 quarts. Width
Fuel Requirements Hood width
Clean, fresh, lead-free, automotive gasoline Tilling width......................................................14"
Engine Oil— '^heel width
API Service SF, SG, SH or SH/CC. SAE30W at top of handlebars
above 32°F. Below 32°F use SAE 5W30 Weight
(SAE low is an acceptable substitute). Recoil start model....................................149-lbs.
Do not use 10W40 motor oil. Wheel and Tire Size
.................................................
................................................
.........................................
Engine Oil Capacity 3.25 x 5"; 15-to-20 psi (pounds / sq. inch)
21 ounces; however, always fill to the top of Transmission the oil fill tube. Gear oil capacity: 3]^ pints (55-to-57 ozs.)
Spark Plug Type Small Top-Offs: SAE 140, SAE 85W-140, or
Champion J-8 (or equivalent) or Autolite 356 SAE 80W-90 weight gear oil with an API rating (or equivalent). Canadian models: RJ-17LM. of either GL-4 or GL-5.
Spark Plug Gap Replacement: SAE 140 or SAE 85W-140
030 inch. weight gear oil with an API rating of GL-4 only.
................
...................
........................
37-1/2"
16-1/2"
18-5/8"
19-1/2"
47"
45"
RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE INTERVALS
MAINTENANCE PROCEDURE
Check Engine Oil Level * Clean Engine Cooling Fins
Check Bolts and Nuts ** Check Tension on Drive Belts **
Change Engine Oil *** Oil and Grease Tiller
Service Air Cleaner Foam Pre-Cleaner(not on Junior) Check Transmission Gear Oil Level ** Check Tines for Wear Check Spark Plug
Replace Air Cleaner Paper Filter
* Check oil level after every 5 operating hours. ** Check after first 2 hours of break-in operation. *** Change more frequently in dusty or dirty conditions. (Change after first 2 hours of break-in operation.) t 6HP Econo-Horse— Replace paper air filter every 100 hours,
t 5HP Pony Model— Replace paper air filter every 50 hours, t 4HP Junior Model— Replace paper air filter every 25 hours.
Before
Each
Use
t See schedule below for each engine
Every
10
Hours
Every
25
Hours
Every
30
Hours
Every
50
Hours
49
Page 52
TROUBLESHOOTING
Before performing any of the corrections in this Troubleshooting Chart, refer to the appropriate information con tained in this Manual for the correct safety precautions and operating or maintenance procedures. Contact your local authorized Engine Service Dealer for engine service. Contact your local authorized TROY-BILT dealer or the factory Technical Service Department for service problems with the machine.
PROBLEM
Engine does not start.
Keyswitch does not start engine. (eiectric start models only)
Engine runs poorly.
POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
1. Spark plug wire disconnected.
2. Engine Throttle Control Lever incorrectly set. 2. Put lever in START position.
3. Fuel tank empty.
4. Choke control in incorrect position. 4. Move choke to proper position (see “Engine
5. Stale gasoline. 5. Drain fuel and add fresh fuel.
6. Dirty air filter(s). 6. Clean or replace filter(s).
7. Defective or incorrectly gapped spark plug. 7. Inspect spark plug.
8. Carburetor out of adjustment.
9. Misadjusted Throttle Control cable.
10. Dirt or water in fuel tank.
1. Electrical connections loose or disconnected. 1. Tighten or reconnect wiring.
2. Battery discharged. 2. Charge battery (see Section 2).
3. Broken wire in wiring system. 3. Replace broken wiring.
4. Malfunctioning starter motor.
5. Corroded battery terminals.
6. Poor contact on ground wire terminals.
1. Defective or incorrectly gapped spark plug. 1. Inspect spark plug.
2. Dirty air filter(s). 2. Clean or replace.
3. Carburetor out of adjustment.
4. Stale gasoline.
5. Dirt or water in fuel tank. 5. See Engine Service Dealer.
6. Engine cooling system clogged.
1. Reconnect wire.
3. Add fuel.
Controls,’’ Section 3).
8. See Engine Service Dealer.
9. See “Engine Throttle Cable Adjustment” (Section 5).
10. See Engine Service Dealer.
4. Contact local Engine Service Dealer.
5. Clean corroded terminals (see “Troubleshooting Eiectric Start System”- Section 5).
6. Scrape paint off terminals.
3. See Engine Service Dealer.
4. Drain gasoline and add fresh gasoline.
6. Clean air cooling area.
Engine overheats. 1. Engine cooling system clogged.
2. Carburetor out of adjustment.
3. Oil level is low. 3. Check oil. Add if needed.
Engine does not shut off.
Wheels and Tines will not turn.
Tines turn, but wheels don’t.
50
1. Misadjusted Throttle Control cable.
1. Improper use of controls. 1. Review Sections 3 and 4.
2. Forward Drive- Forward Clutch Rod not in correct swivel plate hole.
3. Reverse Drive- broken or misadjusted belt. 3. Replace belt or adjust belt tension.
4. Worn, broken, or misadjusted drive belt(s).
5. Internal transmission wear or damage. 5. Contact local Dealer or the Factory.
6. Bolt and key loose in transmission pulley.
1. Pony and Econo-Florse Models: wheel mounting hardware missing.
2. Junior Model: wheel drive pins missing or incorrectly located.
3. Bolt and key loose in transmission pulley.
1. Clean air cooling areas.
2. See Engine Service Dealer.
1. Adjust Throttle Control cable (see Section 5).
2. See “Flandlebar Fleight Adjustment” (Section 3).
4. See “Cbecking Drive Belt Tension" (Section 5).
6. Tighten bolt; verify key in place.
1. Replace hardware.
2. Replace wheel pins in WFIEEL DRIVE position (see Section 3).
3. Tighten bolt; verify key in place.
Page 53
TROUBLESHOOTING
PROBLEM
(cont. from Page 50)
Wheels Turn, but Tines Don’t.
Poor tilling performance.
Battery (if so equipped) does not charge during
engine operation.
POSSIBLE CAUSE
4. Internal transmission wear or damage.
5. Econo-Horse and Pony: misadjusted Wheel Gear Cable.
6. Econo-Horse and Pony; Wheel Gear Lever not fully engaged.
1. Tine holder mounting hardware missing.
2. Internal transmission wear or damage.
1. Worn tines.
2. Improper Depth Regulator setting.
3. Incorrect throttle setting (all models) or belt speed (Econo-Horse only),
4. Belt(s) slipping.
1. Broken wiring in engine recharging circuit. 1. Contact Engine Service Dealer.
2. Malfuctioning engine recharging system.
3. Discharged or dead battery.
4. ' Contact local Dealer or the Factory.
5. See “Wheel Gear Cable Adjustment” (Section 5).
6. Engage lever (see Section 3).
1. Replace hardware.
2. Contact local Dealer or the Factory.
1. See “Bolo Tines” (Section 5).
2. See “Tilling in the Garden” (Section 4).
3. See Section 4.
4. See Forward Clutch Rod location in Section 3. See “Checking Drive Beit Tension” in Section 5.
2. Contact Engine Service Dealer.
3. See “To Charge the Battery” in Section 2. Replace a dead battery.
CORRECTION
51
Page 54
A
Air Cleaner Assembly Steps
Authorized Service...................3
.........................
.......................
36-37
7
B
Battery
Charging
Installing
Storage
Belts
...................................
Adjusting
Replacing
Changing Speeds
Econo-Horse
.............................
.............................
...............................
38-43
.......................
...............
..........
39, 43
41,42, 43
26,27,29
14 16 47
C
Cable, Throttle Carburetor Adjustments Choke
Cleaner, Air........................36-37
Claims, Freight Composting Cooling Fins Controls, Tiller & Engine
Crop Residues........................30
Cultivating...............................28
Clutch,
......................................
Forward Drive Lever
Clutch, Maneuvering...........20
........................
.........
..........................
............................
...........................
........
...........
44
47
23
3, 8 30 37
18
20
D
Decals........................................6
Depth Regulator Lever....21,27
Drive Belts
...................
See Belts
INDEX
F
Fins, Engine Cooling
Footprints
Forward Drive Clutch.............20
Forward Motion Freight Damage
Fuel.....................................48-49
Gardening
Gasoline Gear Oil, Transmission ...10, 34 Grease,
Lubrication Points
Handlebars............................8, 21
Hillside Tilling....................31,32
Ignition Switch
...............................
..........................
.............................
J, K
Lever (See Clutch) Loading
Lubrication Points..............33, 34
Maintenance
Maneuvering Clutch...............20
Motor Oil......................11,35, 48
...................................
......................
Engine
Tiller
.........
...............................
.............
..........
19, 20, 25
....................
3, 8
G
27-32 48-49
........
33, 34
H
I
...........
23, 45, 46
L
M
33-47
35-37, 44, 47-49
33-44
37 29
32
Q
R
Reverse
Repairs/Adjustments........33-47
...................................
Operating in Reverse..20, 30
20
S
Safety Instructions................4-5
Seedbed Preparation Serial Number-Tiller Shut-Off Switch Sloping Ground Solenoid Speeds, Changing
Spark Plug Specifications Starting and
Stopping Engine....22, 23, 25
Stopping Tiller Switch, Ignition
..................................
Econo-Horse
...............................
...................
........................
........
27-28
.................
......................
.................
..........
...........
31,32
26, 27, 29
48-49
23, 45, 46
44
45
37, 48-49
25
T
Terrace Gardening
Throttle Lever & Controls
Tiller & Engine
Maintenance
Tiiler Operation
Tiller Serial Number Tines, Bolo Tire Pressure
Travel Position-Depth
Regulator Lever Troubleshooting
Turning Tiller Around.............25
.........................
............
..................
.......................
..........................
............
...............
31,32
.......
33-47
.................
37, 38
21 -22
50-51
24
13
2
23
2
E
Electric Start System
Assembly Maintenance Operation Troubleshooting
Engine
Air Cleaner Choke Cooling Fins Controls Fuel
Oil.......................11,35, 48-49
Service Dealers Starting Stopping Storage
Throttle Cable.....................44
52
............................
.......................
............................
...........
....................
..................................
.......................
..............................
................................
....................
..........................
.............................
...............................
14 47 23
45, 46
36-37
23 37
22
48-49
3
22-23
23
44
N
O
Off-Season Storage................44
Oil, Engine Oil,
Transmission Gear Oil Leaks Operating the Tiller Ordering Tiller Parts
..........
11,35, 48-49
.......
10,34
.................................
................
................
34 24
P
Power Composting Pulleys (See Belts)
“Paddles”, Forward Drive
(See Clutch, Forward Drive)
................
30
U
Unloading Tiller Untangling Tines
Uphill Tilling.......................31,32
......................
....................
32 29
V
w
3
Wheel Drive Pins
Junior
..................................
Wheel Gear Lever
Wheels................................48-49
...................
19 18
X,Y,Z
Page 55
NOTES
Page 56
For customer assistance, contact your nearest authorized dealer or:
GARDEN WAY INCORPORATED • 1 Garden Way • Troy, New York 12180
Customer Service: 1-800-437-8686 • Technical Service: 1-800-520-5520 • Parts Service: 1-800-648-6776 • FAX: (518) 391-7332
Outside the U.S.A. and Canada:
Customer Service: (518) 391-7007 • Technical Service: (518) 391-7008 • Parts Service: (518) 391-7006 • FAX: (518) 391-7332
1905061 (12/97)
Printed in U.S.A.
>1997 GARDEN WAY INCORPORATED
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