Trek DOMANE SLR 2017 Service Manual

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2017 DOMANE SLR SERVICE MANUAL

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2016 DOMANE SLR

K Rear IsoSpeed cover, drive side

L Pivot bolt

M Bearing 19 mm x 10 mm x 5 mm

N Pivot locating washer

O Rear IsoSpeed cover, non-drive side

P Nut m5 x 0.8 mm x 24 mm

Q Flat washer m5 x 10 mm x 1.0 mm

R Button head screw m5 x 10 mm

S Curved washer m5 x 18 od x 1.5 thck x r11 mm

T Spring lock washer

U Cap screw m5 x .8 mm - 35 mm

V Bolt m5 x 12 mm

W Down tube cover

X BB cable guide

Y Button head screw m5 x 10 mm

Z Chain keeper washer

AA Chain keeper

BB Adjustable seat mast bumper

CC IsoSpeed seat mast pivot axle

DD Seat mast

EE Adjustable seat mast slider

FF Set screw m5 x 5 mm

GG Di2 dropout grommet

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A Front IsoSpeed lower cover

B Elliptical nut, m8 x 1.0 mm x 6 mm

C Front IsoSpeed decoupler

D Washer, 16 od x 10.10 id x 1.125 length

E Screw, m8 x 1.0 mm x 14 mm, 4 mm hex

F Pre-load spacer

G Headset bearing

H Headset compression ring

I Front IsoSpeed head tube cover

J Headset top cap

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction

1. Adjustable Rear IsoSpeed 3

How it works 3

Installing the seatmast 4

Installing the adjustable seatmast slider and securing the seatmast 6

Adjusting the ride 7

2. Front IsoSpeed 8

Installing the Front IsoSpeed system 8

3. Installing the fork 11

4. Installing the Di2 12

5. Installing the shift cables 13

Securing the rear derailleur 15

Securing the front derailleur 16

6. Installing mudguards 17

Securing the rear mudguard 17

Securing the front mudguard 19

7. Installing chain keeper 21

Securing the chain keeper 21

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A note from the development team

Our goal as bicycle developers is simple: we seek to improve the experience of riding. Getting there can be a bit more complicated.

Trek’s IsoSpeed decoupler, for instance, originally developed for the ﬁrst generation Domane, was the result of an extensive 18-month study of how a racing bike performs over rough roads.

Since its introduction, IsoSpeed has revolutionised race comfort technology, bringing a new standard of compliance and conﬁdence in handling to road, cyclocross and mountain bikes in Trek’s line-up.

But Trek never stops developing. With the all-new Domane SLR, we set out to devise a solution for customisable compliance and greater efﬁciency and comfort at the front end.

In development, we went directly to the source – researching and designing Adjustable Rear IsoSpeed and Front IsoSpeed at the Arenberg Forest with Fabian Cancellara and Trek-Segafredo, then replicating a 100-metre section in our Waterloo Performance Factory for even more extensive testing.

Hundreds of people had a hand in making the new Domane a reality, from engineers to product developers to carbon techs on the Waterloo factory ﬂoor. It wouldn’t be the bike it is today without each of their contributions. In the end, we knew we’d achieved something remarkable. We hope you enjoy the magic.

Sincerely, The Domane SLR Development Team

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1 ADJUSTABLE REAR ISOSPEED DECOUPLER AND SEATMAST

How it works

The Adjustable Rear IsoSpeed decoupler allows the seatmast to ﬂex independently (decoupled) from the seat tube and top tube. The decoupler provides saddle comfort over rough roads, while the frame maintains stiffness for quick acceleration and increased pedalling efﬁciency. The new adjustable seatmast slider changes the amount of ﬂex provided by the decoupler for a truly tuned ride.

K Rear IsoSpeed cover, drive side

L Pivot bolt

M Bearing 19 mm x 10 mm x 5 mm

N Pivot locating washer

O Rear IsoSpeed cover, non-drive side

P Nut m5 x .8 mm x 24 mm

Q Flat washer m5 x 10 mm x 1.0 mm

R Button head screw m5 x 10 mm

S Curved washer m5 x 18 od x 1.5 thck x r11 mm

T Spring lock washer

U Cap screw m5 x .8 mm - 35 mm

BB Adjustable seatmast bumper

CC IsoSpeed axle

DD Seatmast

EE Adjustable seatmast slider

TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED

• 4 mm Allen key

• 5 mm Allen key

• 6 mm Allen key

• Torque wrench

• Grease

• Loctite 242

(parts enlarged for clarity)

Higher position

As the adjustable seatmast slider is moved up the seatmast, you will feel the road surface and be more subject to road vibration.

Lower position

The ride will be more comfortable as the adjustable seatmast slider is moved down the seatmast. You will be more isolated from any vibration caused by the road surface.

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INSTALLING THE ADJUSTABLE REAR ISOSPEED DECOUPLER AND SEATMAST

Installing the seatmast

1. Apply grease to the bore holes of the seatmast

and to the bore holes on the frame.

2. Insert the IsoSpeed axle into the seatmast

as shown.

3. Place a bearing and then a pivot locating washer

onto the pivot bolt. Repeat so you will have two bolt assemblies. If you are reusing a bolt, clean the threads and apply Loctite 242.

NOTE

The pivot locating washer is installed between the IsoSpeed seatmast and the IsoSpeed bearing.

4. Align the bore holes in the seatmast with the

opening in the frame.

5. Pass one of the pivot bolt assemblies from Step 3

through the bore hole and thread it into the IsoSpeed axle.

6. Insert a 6 mm Allen key into the non-drive side of

the IsoSpeed axle to hold it steady (6a). Insert a 5 mm Allen key into the pivot bolt and turn it to engage the threads (6b). Do not fully tighten.

GREASE

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INSTALLING THE ADJUSTABLE REAR ISOSPEED DECOUPLER AND SEATMAST

7. On the non-drive side, insert the other pivot bolt

assembly from step 3 through the bore hole and thread it into the IsoSpeed axle.

8. Insert 5 mm Allen keys into both pivot bolts and

slowly turn each clockwise. Turn only until snug.

Do not over-tighten.

9. Hold the non-driveside pivot bolt with the Allen

key (8a). Using a torque wrench, tighten the driveside pivot bolt by turning it towards the front of the bike to 8 Nm maximum (8b). Turn until the wrench 'clicks' to ensure proper seating and tightness.

N m

10. Repeat the tightening process with the torque

wrench on the non-drive side.

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11. Remove excess

grease with a cloth. Align the Rear IsoSpeed cover, drive-side, and snap into place. Repeat for the Rear IsoSpeed cover, non-drive-side.

NOTE

A correctly installed seatmast moves freely. If it does not, reinstall and make sure that all hardware is installed correctly.

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INSTALLING THE ADJUSTABLE REAR ISOSPEED DECOUPLER AND SEATMAST

Installing the adjustable seatmast slider and securing the seatmast.

1. Rotate the seatmast away from the frame.

2. Install the adjustable seatmast slider by ﬁtting it

into the corresponding groove on the seatmast. Slide it up past the hole at the bottom of the seatmast. You will adjust its position later.

3. Rotate the seatmast so the adjustable seatmast

slider contacts the seat tube.

4. Insert the m5 nut into the hole on the seatmast,

making sure that the vertical alignment of the head of the nut matches the vertical alignment of the hole in the seatmast. If it is not aligned, there is a crush risk.

5. Place the spring lock washer, the ﬂat washer and

the curved washer onto the cap screw. The dome of the spring lock washer is curved and ﬁts against the head of the cap screw.

TIP

Squeeze the seatmast and seat tube together to hold in place during these steps.

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INSTALLING THE ADJUSTABLE REAR ISOSPEED DECOUPLER AND SEATMAST

6. Place the curved washer onto the seat tube (6a)

and, holding the nut securely with a ﬁnger (6b), insert the cap screw through the front of the seat tube.

IMPORTANT

Over-tightening can cause damage.

7. Decide the location of the seatmast slider. The

closer the slider is towards the saddle, the stiffer the ride. The closer the slider is towards the bottom bracket, the less stiff the ride, as the seatmast increases its ﬂexibility.

MORE STIFF

LESS STIFF

ADJUSTABLE

SEATMAST

SLIDER

8. Once you have decided on the position of the

adjustable seatmast slider, tighten the cap screw to a maximum of 3 Nm using a torque key set. To change the position of the slider, loosen the cap screw and repeat steps 7 and 8.

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Adjusting the ride

1. To change the position of the adjustable seatmast

slider, loosen the cap screw and move the slider to the new position.

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2. Tighten the cap screw to 3 Nm using a torque key

or wrench.

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2 FRONT ISOSPEED

TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED

• 5 mm Allen key

• Torque wrench

• Grease

A Front IsoSpeed

lower cover

B Elliptical nut m8 x1.0 x 6 mm

C Front IsoSpeed

decoupler

D Washer 16 od x 10.10 id x 1.125 length

E Screw m8 x 1.0 x 14 mm, 4 mm hex

F Pre-load spacer

G Headset bearing

H Headset

compression ring

I Front IsoSpeed

head tube cover

J IsoSpeed top cap

Installing the Front IsoSpeed system

1. Apply grease to the bore holes, as well as the

inside face and both sides of the head tube.

2. Place a washer over each bearing in the front

IsoSpeed decoupler.

GREASE

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INSTALLING THE FRONT ISOSPEED DECOUPLER

3. Pinch the Front IsoSpeed decoupler between two

ﬁngers to hold the washers and carefully guide it into the cavity in the head tube. Stop when the holes in the decoupler are aligned with the bore holes in the frame.

4. From inside the decoupler, insert a screw into the

driveside bore hole so the screw points to the outside of the head tube.

5. Point the end of the elliptical nut with the chamfer

towards the bore hole.

CHAMFER

6. Place a ﬁnger inside the decoupler and push the

screw towards the outside of the head tube.

7. Hand thread the elliptical nut a few turns to the

LEFT to secure it for the next step.

IMPORTANT

Over-tightening can cause damage.

8. The elliptical nut is an oval shape and matches the

oval shape of the bore hole in the head tube. When the elliptical nut is hand tight, align the oval of the nut with the style line of the head tube.

STYLE LINE

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INSTALLING THE FRONT ISOSPEED DECOUPLER

9. Place one hand on the opposite side of the head

tube (9a) and with the other, insert the torque key into the nut and apply pressure with both hands until the nut seats into the head tube (9b). Then turn clockwise, with ﬁrm pressure (9c). This will draw the screw inside the head tube towards the nut. Turn until snug, do not fully tighten.

10. Repeat the installation of the screw and elliptical

nut for the other side.

CHAMFER

11. Repeat the seating process for the other side.

12. To fully tighten, apply good pressure while

turning the torque key. This will prevent the screw inside the decoupler from spinning and will draw it towards the nut. Tighten to a maximum of 5 Nm.

N m

13. Repeat for the other side.

NOTE

The decoupler should move freely after installation. If it does not, loosen and reinstall, clean the connections and apply grease.

14. Lower the pre-load spacer into the decoupler

so that the label ‘BEARING’ is on the top and ‘SPRING’ is pointed down. Also note that there are ﬂat sides; these line up with the screws on either side of the decoupler.

BEARING

SPRING

FLAT

SIDES

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TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED

• Fork

• Compression ring

• Lower bearing

• Headset bearing

• Compression plug

• IsoSpeed top cap

• IsoSpeed head tube cover

1. Install the Front IsoSpeed head tube cover. Make

sure that the Front IsoSpeed decoupler is aligned with the cover.

2. Place the lower bearing over the steer tube (2a)

and pass the steer tube up through the head tube (2b). Slide the headset bearing and then the compression ring down onto the steer tube and into the top of the decoupler (2c).

3. Slide the IsoSpeed top cap over the steer tube.

ISOSPEED TOP CAP

HEADSET COMPRESSION RING

HEADSET BEARING

DECOUPLER

HEAD TUBE

STEER TUBE

LOWER BEARING

4. Install the Front IsoSpeed lower cover by wrapping

it around the head tube, starting on the left side and using your thumb to press it into place.

This gap will close after installation of the spacers and stem, and compression of the assembly.

5. Reinstall the spacers, stem and headset top cap.

Conﬁrm that the compression plug is properly installed in the steer tube and tightened to a torque of 10 Nm (5a). Tighten the top cap screw to 4 Nm (5b).

Finally, tighten the stem’s steer tube clamp screws to the torque speciﬁed by the stem manufacturer.

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3 INSTALLING THE FORK

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4 INSTALLING THE Di2

TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED

• Torx screws (5)

• T8 Torx wrench

• m5 bolts (2)

• Down tube cover

1. Place the Di2 battery into the bracket.

2. Install four Torx screws by using a T8 Torx wrench.

Tighten to just snug. Do not strip the plastic.

IMPORTANT

Over-tightening can cause damage.

3. Feed the connector into the down tube hole,

then feed in the wire.

4. Place the down tube cover over the hole. Screw

the two m5 ﬂathead bolts and tighten to snug.

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5 INSTALLING THE SHIFT CABLES

TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED

• Shift cables

• Housing

• Housing end caps

• Dropout cable sleeve

• Inline barrel adjuster

• Housing cutters

• 4 mm Allen key

• Cable cutters

1. Pull the hood of the drive side cover back to reveal

the cable port. Open the grey access panel.

2. Pull the rear derailleur cable through the opening

of the shifter bracket, and seat the cable head through the slot.

3. Install housing caps onto the cable housing. Insert

the cable housing into the shifter housing stop.

4. Guide the cable housing tightly along the

handlebar, stopping a few inches short of the stem.

5. With the handlebar rotated all the way to the

non-drive side, align the cable.

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INSTALLING THE SHIFT CABLES

6. Create the correct amount of slack in the cable

housing: do not make it too loose (A) or too tight (B).

A B

TOO

TIGHT

TOO

LOOSE

7. The cable housing should have enough slack to

enable the handlebars to fully turn without pulling out of the down tube cable housing stop.

8. Mark the point at which the cable housing enters

the down tube using your thumbnail or marker.

9. Cut the cable housing at this mark. Clean the cable

housing end and install a cable stop.

10. Thread a shift cable through the housing and

follow the shifter-speciﬁc instructions.

11. Repeat steps 1 - 10 to install the front derailleur

cable. During this task, install a front derailleur inline barrel adjuster on the housing. Ensure that it does not make contact with the frame.

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INSTALLING THE SHIFT CABLES

Securing the rear derailleur

1. Thread the cables through the liners in the down

tube until they exit the bottom bracket cable port at the bottom of the bike.

TIP

Tape the cables to the frame to avoid mixing up the front and rear.

2. Install the cable guide by aligning the short end

with the rear derailleur cable. Make sure that the plastic tails of the guide line up with the grooves of the frame.

3. Install a housing end cap, and then thread the shift

cable through the housing.

4. Snap the frame housing stop into the frame.

Ensure that the dropout cable sleeve is inserted in the frame.

5. Clean the ends of the cable housing. Create a

bend in the housing that allows the cable to slide without binding. See the illustration for guidance.

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INSTALLING THE SHIFT CABLES

6. Thread the cable through the adjustment barrel

and ﬁnish installation according to the derailleur manufacturer’s speciﬁcations.

Securing the front derailleur

1. Check the down tube opening to make sure that

the cables are not interfering with each other. Pull on the front derailleur cable while viewing through the down tube opening. Only the front derailleur cable should move.

2. Guide the front derailleur cable over the long end

of the bottom bracket cable guide. Make sure that the guide aligns with the grooves of the frame.

3. Install the cable to the front derailleur

manufacturer’s speciﬁcations.

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TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED

• 4 mm Allen key

• 3 mm Allen key

• 8 mm open-ended spanner

• Eye-bolt

• Hardware included with mudguard

Securing the rear mudguard

1. Remove the rear wheel. Remove the hidden

mudguard mount set screws from the junction of the chainstay and seatstay (1a). Install the hidden mudguard mount eye-bolts with locking nuts until they bottom out (1b).

2. Orient the eye-bolt parallel to the frame. Lock the

eye-bolt in place by tightening the nut with an 8 mm open-ended spanner.

TIP

Disc-brake-equipped bikes require the use of a seatstay bridge adapter. If there are two adapters, Domane uses the larger one with the longer fasteners.

3. Pass the mudguard through the rear brake (1a)

and slide the bracket onto the mudguard until you reach the brake arch or seatstay bridge adapter. (1b) Secure the bracket with a screw (1c). Do not

fully tighten.

4. Install the lower mounting struts of the mudguards

to the eye-bolts. Tighten to a maximum of 5.2 Nm.

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5.2

6 INSTALLING MUDGUARDS

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5. Install the front of the mudguard at the bottom of

the seat tube with the included fastener. Do not fully tighten.

6. Attach the rear wheel. Adjust the struts to the

appropriate length (6a) so that the mudguard is centred and has enough clearance over the tyre to prevent rubbing (6b).

7. After ﬁnalising the position of the mudguard,

remove the rear wheel and tighten the brake arch or seatstay bridge adapter fastener to a maximum of 5.2 Nm.

N m

5.2

8. Tighten the struts to a maximum of 3 Nm.

N m

9. Finally, test the bike on the ground and loosen and

tighten the wheel closure system. Then check for interference between the wheel and other parts of the bike.

INSTALLING MUDGUARDS

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Securing the front mudguard

1. Remove the front wheel. Remove the hidden

mudguard mount set screws from the fork legs. (On a disc brake fork there will only be one set screw, on the driveside fork leg.)

2. Install the hidden mudguard mount eye-bolts with

locking nuts on both fork legs until they bottom out. Orient the eye-bolt so it is perpendicular to the ground. Use the 8 mm open-ended spanner to secure the locking nut.

NOTE

Disc-brake-equipped bikes require the use of an angled bracket adapter that mounts between the caliper bolt head and the disc brake caliper. Position the eye-bolt so that it is perpendicular to the ground.

3. Install the top of the mudguard to the rear of

the fork crown. Place the mudguard at its highest possible setting. This will be adjusted later when centring the wheel.

4. Install the lower mounting brackets of the

mudguards to the eye-bolts on the fork legs. Torque the eye-bolt hardware to a maximum of 5.2 Nm.

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5.2

INSTALLING MUDGUARDS

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5. Reinstall the front wheel. Adjust the mudguard at the

fork crown so that the mudguard is centred and there is clearance between the mudguard and the tyre (5a).

Adjust the strut hardware so the back of the mudguard is centred over the tyre and the mudguard does not rub (5b).

6. Once the mudguard is adjusted, tighten the fork

crown screw to a maximum of 5.2 Nm (6a) and the strut screw to a maximum of 3 Nm (6b).

N m

5.2

N m

7. Test the bike on the ground and loosen and tighten

the wheel closure system. Then check for interference between the wheel and other parts of the bike. Check for toe overlap, especially on smaller frame sizes.

INSTALLING MUDGUARDS

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TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED

• Chain keeper

• Chain keeper washer

• 4 mm Allen key

• m5 button head screw

Securing the chain keeper

1. Place the chain keeper washer and chain keeper onto

the m5 button-head screw.

2. Note the curved surface on the frame and place the

chain keeper along this surface and tighten until snug (2a). Tilt the chain keeper away from the bike until you install the chain. When the chain has been installed, make ﬁnal adjustments (2b).

7 INSTALLING THE CHAIN KEEPER

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date miles/km

SERVICE NOTES

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