Trek Domanee 2017 Service Manual

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Page 1

2017 DOMANEE

SERVICE MANUAL

Page 2

Page 3

2016 DOMANE

K Rear IsoSpeed cover drive side

L Pivot bolt

M Bearing 19mm x 10mm x 5mm

N Pivot locating washer

O Rear IsoSpeed cover non drive side

P Nut m5 x .08 x 24mm

Q Flat washer m5 x 10 x 1.0mm

R Button head screw m5 x 10

S Curved washer m5 x 18od x 1.5thck x r11

T Spring lock washer

U Cap screw m5 x .08 - 35

V Bolt m5 x 12mm

W Downtube cover

X BB cable guide

Y Button head screw m5 x 10

Z Chain keeper washer

AA Chain keeper

BB Adjustable seatmast bumper

CC IsoSpeed seat mast pivot axle

DD Seat mast

EE Adjustable seatmast slider

FF Set screw m5 x 5mm

GG Di2 dropout grommet

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A) Front Isospeed lower cover

B) Elliptical nut, m8 x1.0 x 6mm

C) Front Isospeed decoupler

D) Washer, 16od x 10.10id x 1.125 length

E) Screw, m8 x 1.0 x 14mm, 4mm hex

F) Pre-load spacer

G) Headset bearing

H) Headset compression ring

I) Front Isospeed headtube cover

J) Headset top cap

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A note from the development team

Our goal as bicycle developers is simple: we seek to improve experience of riding. Getting there can be a bit more complicated.

Trek’s IsoSpeed decoupler, for instance, which was originally developed for the ﬁrst generation Domane, was the result of an extensive 18-month study of how a racing bike performs over rough roads.

Since its introduction, IsoSpeed has revolutionized race comfort technology, bringing a new standard of compliance and conﬁdence in handling to road, cyclocross, and mountain bikes in Trek’s lineup.

But Trek never stops developing. With the all-new Domane SLR, we set out to devise a solution that would both expand the range and allow customization. Additionally, we sought to offer front-end compliance that increased efﬁciency and comfort.

In development, we went directly to the source—researching and designing adjustable rear IsoSpeed and front IsoSpeed at the Arenberg Forest with Fabian Cancellara and Trek-Segafredo, then replicating a 100-meter section in our Waterloo Performance Factory for even more extensive testing.

After rider evaluations, structural testing, and computer simulations, the result of our efforts is extraordinary new ride-smoothing technology that changes expectations of race comfort. Hundreds of people had a

hand in making the new Domane a reality, from engineers to product developers to carbon techs on the Waterloo factory ﬂoor. It wouldn’t be the bike it is today without each of their contributions. In the end, we knew we’d achieved something remarkable. We hope you enjoy the magic.

Sincerely, The Domane SLR Development Team

Domane SLR A monumental advantage

Congratulations

If you’re reading this assembly manual, odds are you’re about to lay hands on the smoothest, most efﬁcient race bike Trek has ever created.

The all-new Domane represents a new convention of race comfort and performance. Born of the historic cobblestones of cycling’s most iconic one-day races, Domane delivers never-before-seen levels of compliance and efﬁciency with three groundbreaking new technologies: adjustable rear IsoSpeed, front IsoSpeed, and the IsoCore handlebar.

Cycling’s roughest roads are the proving ground of the world’s greatest equipment and racers. These roads have conquered all. Until now.

Domane is more than smooth. It’s a monumental advantage.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction 2

1. IsoSpeed seat decoupler and seat mast 3

How it works 3

Installing the seat mast 4

Installing the Adjustable Seatmast Slider and securing the seat mast. 6

Adjusting the ride 7

2. Front IsoSpeed 8

Installing the front IsoSpeed system 8

3. Installing the fork 11

4. Installing the Di2 12

5. Installing the shift cables 13

Securing the rear derailleur 15

Securing the front derailleur 16

6. Installing fenders 17

Securing the rear fender 17

Securing the front fender 18

7. Installing chain keeper 20

Securing the chain keeper 20

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1 ISOSPEED SEAT DECOUPLER AND SEAT MAST

How it works

High position

As the adjustable seat mast slider is moved up the seat mast, you will feel the road surface and be more subject road vibration.

Low position

The ride will be more comfortable as the adjustable seatmast slider is moved down the seat mast. You will be more isolated from any vibration caused by the road surface.

The IsoSpeed seat decoupler allows the seat mast to ﬂex independently (decoupled) from the seat tube and top tube. The IsoSpeed decoupler provides saddle comfort over rough pavement, while the frame maintains stiffness for quick acceleration and increased pedaling efﬁciency. The new adjustable seat mast slider changes the amount of ﬂex provided by the seat decoupler for a truly tuned ride.

K Rear IsoSpeed cover drive side

L Pivot bolt

M Bearing 19mm x 10mm x 5mm

N Pivot locating washer

O Rear IsoSpeed cover non drive side

P Nut m5 x .08 x 24mm

Q Flat washer m5 x 10 x 1.0mm

R Button head screw m5 x 10

S Curved washer m5 x 18od x 1.5thck x r11

T Spring lock washer

U Cap screw m5 x .08 - 35

BB Adjustable seatmast bumper

CC IsoSpeed seat mast pivot axle

DD Seat mast

EE Adjustable seatmast slider

TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED:

• 4 mm Hex wrench

• 5 mm Hex Wrench

• 6 mm Hex Wrench

• Torque wrench

• Grease

• Loctite 242

(Parts enlarged for clarity)

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INSTALLING THE ISOSPEED SEAT DECOUPLER AND SEAT MAST

Installing the seat mast

1. Apply grease to the bores of the seat mast as well

as the bores on the frame.

2. Insert the IsoSpeed axle into the seat mast as

shown.

3. Place a bearing and then a pivot locating washer

onto the pivot bolt. Repeat so you will have two bolt assemblies. If you are re-using bolt, clean the threads and apply Loctite 242

NOTE

The spacer gets installed between IsoSpeed seat mast and IsoSpeed bearing inner bore.

4. Align the bore holes in the seat mast with the

opening in the frame.

5. Pass a pivot bolt assembly from Step 3 through the

bore [hole] and thread it into the IsoSpeed axle.

6. Insert a 6 mm hex wrench into the non-drive side

bore hole to hold the IsoSpeed axle mast pivot axle steady (6a). Insert a 5mm hex wrench into the pivot bolt and turn to engage the threads, do not

fully tighten.

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INSTALLING THE ISOSPEED SEAT DECOUPLER AND SEAT MAST

7. On the non-drive side, insert the other pivot bolt

assembly from step 3 through the bore hole and thread into the axle.

8. Insert 5mm hex wrenches into both pivot bolts and

slowly turn each clockwise. Turn only until snug.

Do not over tighten.

9. Hold the non-drive bolt with the hex wrench (8a).

Using a torque wrench, tighten the drive side bolt by turning towards the front of the bike to 8Nm maximum (8b). Turn until the wrench “clicks” to ensure proper seating and tightness.

N m

10. Repeat the tightening process with the torque

wrench on the non-drive side.

N m

11. Remove excess

grease with a cloth. Align the rear IsoSpeed cover for the drive side and snap into place. Repeat for rear IsoSpeed cover for the non-drive side.

NOTE

A correctly installed seat mast moves freely. If yours does not, reinstall and make sure all hardware is installed correctly

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INSTALLING THE ISOSPEED SEAT DECOUPLER AND SEAT MAST

Installing the Adjustable Seatmast Slider and securing the seat mast.

1. Rotate the seat mast away from the frame.

2. Install the adjustable seatmast slider by ﬁtting it

into the corresponding groove on the seat mast. Slide it up past the hole in the bottom of the seat mast, you will adjust its position later.

3. Rotate the seat mast so the slider contacts with

the seat tube.

4. Insert the m5 nut into the hole on the seat mast,

making sure the vertical alignment of the head of the nut matches the vertical alignment of the hole in the seat mast. There is a crush risk if it is not aligned.

5. Place the spring lock washer, the ﬂat washer and

the curved washer onto the cap screw. The dome of the spring lock washer is curved and ﬁts against the head of the cap screw.

TIP

Squeeze the seat mast and seat tube together to hold in place during these steps.

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INSTALLING THE ISOSPEED SEAT DECOUPLER AND SEAT MAST

6. Place the curved washer onto the seat tube

(6a) and while holding the nut securely with a ﬁnger (6b), insert the cap screw through the front of the seat.

IMPORTANT

Over-tightening can cause damage.

7. Decide the location of the slider. The closer the

slider is towards the saddle, the more stiff the ride. The closer the slider is towards the bottom bracket, the less stiff the ride as the seat mast increases its ﬂexibility.

MORE STIFF

LESS STIFF

SLIDER

8. Once you have decided on the position of the

slider, tighten the cap screw using a torque key set to a maximum of 5 Nm. To change the position of the slider, loosen the cap screw and repeat steps 7 and 8.

N m

Adjusting the ride

1. To change the position of the slider, loosen the bolt

and move the slider to your new position.

N m

2. Tighten the cap screw using a torque key or

wrench set to 5 Nm.

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2 FRONT ISOSPEED

TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED:

• 5 mm hex wrench

• Torque wrench

• Grease

A Front IsoSpeed

lower cover

B Elliptical nut m8 x1.0 x 6mm

C Front IsoSpeed

decoupler

D Washer 16od x 10.10id x 1.125 length

E Screw m8 x 1.0 x 14mm, 4mm hex

F Pre-load spacer

G Headset bearing

H Headset

compression ring

I Front IsoSpeed

headtube cover

J IsoSpeed top cap

Installing the front IsoSpeed system

1. Apply grease to the bores on both sides of the

head tube as well as the inside face.

2. Place a washer over each bearing on both sides of

the front IsoSpeed decoupler.

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INSTALLING THE HEAD TUBE ISOZONE

3. While pinching the front IsoSpeed decoupler

between two ﬁngers to hold the washers, carefully guide it into the cavity in the head tube. Stop when the holes in the decoupler are aligned with the holes in the frame.

4. From inside the decoupler, insert a screw into the

drive side hole so that it points to the outside of the tube.

5. Point the end of the elliptical nut with the chamfer

towards the hole.

CHAMFER

6. Place a ﬁnger inside the decoupler and push the

screw towards the outside of the head tube.

7. Hand thread the nut a few turns to the LEFT to

secure it for the next step.

IMPORTANT

Over-tightening can cause damage.

8. The elliptical nut is an oval shape and matches the

oval shape of the hole in the head tube. When the nut is hand tight, align the oval of the nut with the style line of the head tube.

STYLE LINE

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INSTALLING THE HEAD TUBE ISOZONE

9. Place one hand on the opposite side of the head

tube (9a) and with the other, insert the torque key into the nut and apply pressure with both hands until the nut seats into head tube (9b).Then turn clockwise, with ﬁrm pressure (9c). This will draw the screw inside the head tube towards the nut. Turn until snug, do not fully tighten.

10. Repeat installation of the screw and elliptical nut

for the other side.

CHAMFER

11. Repeat the seating process for the other side.

12. To fully tighten, apply good pressure while

turning the torque key in the nut. This will prevent the bolt inside the decoupler from spinning as well as draw it towards the nut. Tighten to maximum of 5 Nm.

N m

13. Repeat for the other side.

NOTE

Decoupler should move freely after installation. If not, loosen and reinstall, clean connections and apply grease.

14. Lower the pre-load spacer into the decoupler

so that the label “BEARING” is on the top and “SPRING” is pointed down. Also note there are ﬂat sides, these line up with the screws on either side of the decoupler.

FL AT

SIDES

BEARING

SPRING

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TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED:

• Fork

• Headset compression ring

• Lower bearing

• Headset bearing

• Compression plug

• Headset top cap

• IsoSpeed headtube cover

1. Install the front IsoSpeed headtube cover. Make

sure the decoupler is aligned with the cover.

2. Place the lower bearing over the steer tube(2a)

and pass up through the head tube (2b). Slide the headset bearing and then the headset compression ring down onto the steer tube and into the top of the decoupler (2c).

3. Slide the headset top cap over the steerer.

HEADSET TOP CAP HEADSERT

COMPRESSION RING

HEADSERT BEARING

DECOUPLER

HEAD TUBE

STEER TUBE

LOWER BEARING

4. Install the front IsoSpeed lower cover by wrapping

it around the head tube, starting on the left side and using your thumb to press it into place.

This gap will close after installation of the spacers, stem and compression of the assembly.

5. Conﬁrm that the compression plug is properly

installed in the steer tube and tightened to a torque of 10 Nm (5a). Reinstall the stem, spacers, and headset top cap. Tighten the top cap screw to 4 Nm (5b). Finally, tighten the stem’s steer clamp screws to the torque speciﬁed by the stem manufacturer.

N m

3 INSTALLING THE FORK

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4 INSTALLING THE DI2

TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED:

• 5 torx screws

• T8 Torx wrench

• 2 m5 bolts

• Downtube cover

1. Place the Di2 battery into the bracket.

2. Install 4 torx screws by using T8 Torx wrench.

Tighten to just snug, you do not want to strip the plastic.

IMPORTANT

Over-tightening can cause damage.

3. Feeding the connector in ﬁrst, thread the wire into

the downtube hole.

4. Place the downtube cover over the hole. Screw the

2 m5 ﬂathead bolts and tighten to snug.

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5 INSTALLING THE SHIFT CABLES

TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED:

• Shift cables

• Housing

• Housing end caps

• Dropout cable sleeve

• Inline barrel adjuster

• Housing cutters

• 4mm wrench

• Cable cutters

1. Pull the hood of the non-drive side cover back to

reveal the cable port. Open the gray access panel.

2. Pull the rear derailleur cable through the opening

of the shifter bracket, seating the cable head through the slot.

3. Install housing caps onto cable housing. Insert the

cable housing into the shifter cable stop.

4. Guide the cable housing tightly along the

handlebar, stopping a few inches short of the stem.

5. With the handlebar rotated all the way to the non-

drive side, align the cable.

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INSTALLING THE SHIFT CABLES

6. To create the correct amount of slack in the cable,

do not make it too loose (A) or too tight (B).

A B

TOO

TIGHT

TOO

LOOSE

7. The cable should have enough slack in it to enable

the handlebars to fully turn without pulling out of the down tube cable stop.

8. Remove the cable and note the point at which the

cable enters the downtube using your thumbnail or marker.

9. Cut the cable at this mark. Clean the cable end and

install a cable stop.

10. Thread shift cable through the housing and

follow shifter speciﬁc instructions.

11. Repeat steps 1 - 10 and install the front derailleur

cable. During this task, install a front derailleur inline barrel adjuster on the housing. Ensure that it does not make contact with the frame.

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INSTALLING THE SHIFT CABLES

Securing the rear derailleur

1. Thread the cables through the liners in the

downtube until they exit at the bottom of the bike through the bottom bracket cable port.

TIP

Tape the cables to the frame to avoid mixing up front and rear.

2. Install the cable guide by aligning the short end

with the rear derailleur cable. Make sure the plastic tails of the guide line up with the grooves of the frame.

3. Install a housing end cap and then thread the shift

wire through the housing.

4. Snap the frame housing stop into the frame. Ensure

dropout cable sleeve is inserted in the frame.

5. Clean the ends of the housing. Create a bend in

the housing that allows the cable to slide without binding. See the illustration for guidance.

6. Thread the cable through the adjustment barrel

and ﬁnish installation according to your derailleur manufacturer’s speciﬁcations.

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INSTALLING THE SHIFT CABLES

Securing the front derailleur

1. Check the downtube opening to make sure cables

are not interfering with each other. Pull on the front derailleur cable while viewing through this opening. Only front derailleur cable should move.

2. Guide the front derailleur cable over the long end

of the bottom bracket. Make sure the bracket lines up with the grooves of the frame.

3. Install the cable to the front derailleur

manufacturer’s speciﬁcations.

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TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED:

• 4mm hex wrench

• 3mm hex wrench

• 8mm open-end wrench

Securing the front fender

1. Remove the rear wheel. Remove the hidden fender

mount set screws found at the junction of the chainstay and seatstay (1a). Install the hidden fender mount eye-bolts with locking nuts until they bottom out (1b).

2. Orient the eye-bolt parallel to the frame. Use the

8mm open-end wrench to secure the locking nut.

TIP

Disc brake equipped bikes require the use of a seat stay bridge adapter. If there are two adapters, the Domane uses the larger one with the longer fasteners.

3. Pass the fender through the rear brake (1a) and

slide the bracket on until you reach the brake arch or seatstay bridge adapter. (1b) Secure with screw (1c). Do not fully tighten.

4. Install the lower mounting brackets for the fenders

to the eye-bolts. Tighten to a maximum of 5.2 Nm.

N m

5.2

5. Install the front of the fender at the bottom of the

seat tube with the included fastener. Do not fully tighten.

6 INSTALLING FENDERS

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6. Attach rear wheel. Adjust the struts to the

appropriate length (6a) so that the fender has enough clearance over the tire to prevent rubbing (6b).

7. After ﬁnalizing the position of the fender, remove

the rear wheel and tighten the fastener the seat tube fastener, brake arch or seat stay bridge adapter fasteners to a maximum of 5.2 Nm.

N m

5.2

N m

5.2

8. Tighten the struts to a maximum of 3 Nm.

N m

9. Finally, test the bike on the ground and loosen and

tighten your wheel closure system. Then check for interference between the wheel and other parts of the bike.

Securing the rear fender

1. Remove the front wheel. Remove the hidden fender

mount set screws from the fork legs. (On a disc brake fork there will only be one set screw on the drive side fork leg)

2. Install the hidden fender mount eye-bolts with

locking nuts on both fork legs until they bottom out. Orient the eye-bolt so it is perpendicular to the ground. Use the 8mm open-end wrench to secure the locking nut.

NOTE

Disc brake equipped bikes require the use of an angled bracket adapter that mounts between the caliper bolt head and the disc brake caliper. Position the eye-bolt so that it is perpendicular to the ground.

INSTALLING FENDERS

Page 23

3. Install the top of the fender to the backside of the

fork crown. Place the fender at its highest possible setting. This will be adjusted later when centering the wheel.

4. Install the lower mounting brackets for the fenders

to the eye-bolts on the fork legs. Torque the eyebolt hardware to a maximum of 5.2 Nm.

N m

5.2

5. Reinstall the front wheel. Adjust the fender at the

fork crown so that there is clearance between the fender and the tire. (5a)

Adjust the strut hardware so the back of the fender is centered over the tire and the fender does not rub. (5b

6. Once the fender is adjusted, tighten the fork crown

screw to a maximum of 5.2 Nm (6a) and the strut screw to a maximum of 3 Nm (6b).

N m

5.2

N m

7. Test the bike on the ground and loosen and

tighten your wheel closure system. Then check for interference between the wheel and other parts of the bike. Check for toe overlap, especially on smaller frame sizes.

INSTALLING FENDERS

Page 24

TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED:

• Chain keeper

• Chain keeper washer

• 4mm Hex Wrench

• m5 button head screw

• Wrench

Securing the chain keeper

1. Place the chain keeper washer and chain keeper

onto the m5 button head screw.

2. Note the curved surface on the frame and place

the chain keeper along this surface and tighten until snug (2a). Tilt the chain keeper away from the bike until you install the chain and make ﬁnal adjustments (2b).

7 INSTALLING CHAIN KEEPER

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PN 543481