Toyota COROLLA Saloon, COROLLA Hatchback, COROLLA Liftback, COROLLA Estate Owners Workshop Manual

Toyota Corolla

Owners Workshop Manual

Martynn Randall

Models covered

Saloon, Hatchback, Liftback & Estate, including special/limited editions

1.3 litre (1332cc), 1.4 litre (1398cc) & 1.6 litre (1587cc & 1598cc) petrol

Does NOT cover models with 1.8 litre (1762cc) petrol engine, diesel engines, or 4-wheel-drive Does NOT cover new Corolla range introduced January 2002

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 84425 286 8

Printed in the USA

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

Editions Haynes

4, Rue de I'Abreuvoir 92415 COURBEVOIE CEDEX, France

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sverige

Contents

LIVING WITH YOUR TOYOTA COROLLA

Safety first! Introduction

Roadside repairs

Introduction

If your car won't start Jump starting Wheel changing Identifying leaks Towing

Weekly checks

Introduction Underbonnet check points Engine oil level

Coolant level Brake and clutch fluid level Washer fluid level Tyre condition and pressure Power steering fluid level Wiper blades Battery Bulbs and fuses

Lubricants and fluids

Tyre pressures

Page 0•5 Page 0•6

Page 0•7 Page 0•7

Page 0•8 Page 0•9 Page 0•10 Page 0•10

Page 0•11 Page 0•11

Page 0•12 Page 0•12 Page 0•13 Page 0•13 Page 0•14 Page 0•15 Page 0•15 Page 0•16

Page 0•16

Page 0•17

MAINTENANCE

Routine maintenance and servicing

Servicing specifications Maintenance schedule Maintenance procedures

Page 1•2 Page 1•4 Page 1•8

Contents

Engine in-car repair procedures Engine removal and overhaul procedures Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Fuel and exhaust systems

Emission control systems Starting and charging systems Ignition systems

Transmission

Clutch Manual transmission Automatic transmission Driveshafts

Brakes and suspension

Braking system Suspension and steering

Body equipment

Bodywork and fittings Body electrical system

Wiring diagrams

REFERENCE

Dimensions and weights Conversion factors

Buying spare parts Vehicle identification General repair procedures Jacking and vehicle support Tools and working facilities MOT test checks Fault finding Glossary of technical terms

Page 2A•1 Page 2B•1 Page 3•1 Page 4A•1 Page 4B•1 Page 5A•1

Page 5B•1

Page 6•1 Page 7A•1 Page 7B•1 Page 8•1

Page 9•1 Page 10•1

Page 11•1

Page 12•1

Page 12•20

Page REF•1 Page REF•2 Page REF•3 Page REF•3 Page REF•4 Page REF•5

Page REF•6 Page REF•8 Page REF•12 Page REF•22

Index

Page REF•27

REPAIRS & OVERHAUL Engine and associated systems

0•4 Advanced Driving

Advanced driving

Many people see the words 'advanced driving' and believe that it won't interest them or that it is a style of driving beyond their own

abilities. Nothing could be further from the truth. Advanced driving is straightforward safe, sensible driving - the sort of driving we should all do every time we get behind the wheel.

An average of 10 people are killed every day on UK roads and 870 more are injured, some seriously. Lives are ruined daily, usually because somebody did something stupid. Something like 95% of all accidents are due to human error, mostly driver failure. Sometimes we make genuine mistakes everyone does. Sometimes we have lapses of concentration. Sometimes we deliberately take risks.

For many people, the process of 'learning to drive' doesn't go much further than learning how to pass the driving test because of a common belief that good drivers are made by 'experience'.

Learning to drive by 'experience' teaches

three driving skills:

• Quick reactions. (Whoops, that was close!)

• Good handling skills. (Horn, swerve, brake, horn).

• Reliance on vehicle technology. (Great stuff this ABS, stop in no distance even in the wet...)

Drivers whose skills are 'experience based' generally have a lot of near misses and the

odd accident. The results can be seen every day in our courts and our hospital casualty departments.

Advanced drivers have learnt to control the risks by controlling the position and speed of their vehicle. They avoid accidents and near misses, even if the drivers around them make mistakes.

The key skills of advanced driving are

concentration, effective all-round observation, anticipation and planning.

When good vehicle handling is added to

these skills, all driving situations can be approached and negotiated in a safe, methodical way, leaving nothing to chance.

Concentration means applying your mind to safe driving, completely excluding anything that's not relevant. Driving is usually the most dangerous activity that most of us undertake in our daily routines. It deserves our full attention.

Observation means not just looking, but seeing and seeking out the information found in the driving environment.

Anticipation means asking yourself what is happening, what you can reasonably expect to happen and what could happen unexpectedly. (One of the commonest words used in compiling accident reports is 'suddenly'.)

Planning is the link between seeing something and taking the appropriate action. For many drivers, planning is the missing link.

If you want to become a safer and more skilful driver and you want to enjoy your driving more, contact the Institute of Advanced Motorists at www.iam.org.uk, phone 0208 996 9600, or write to IAM House, 510 Chiswick High Road, London W4 5RG for an information pack.

Safety First! 0•5

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.

• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system

and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near a raised vehicle always

supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack.

• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.

• Don't let fuel spill onto a hot engine.

• Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks

(electrically or by use of tools).

• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don't work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit.

• Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.

• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock

• Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don't work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

• Exhaust fumes are

poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut.

• Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and

with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice.

• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a

barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket.

• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a

poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin

burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky

substance containing the acid. Once formed,

the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.

• When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery.

• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body

to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember...

• Do use eye protection when using power

tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle - especially the electrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

DON'T

• Don't attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance.

• Don't rush to finish a job, or take

unverified short cuts.

• Don't use ill-fitting tools which may slip

and cause injury.

• Don't leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don't allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

0•6 Introduction

Toyota Corolla 3

Continuing the tradition of the 'World's best-selling car', the range of Corolla models covered by this manual offers a wide range of body styles and engines, with the emphasis on proven, solid engineering, further reinforcing

Toyota's deserved reputation for outstanding reliability. Introduced in June 1997, the Corolla was available as a 3-door Hatchback, 5-door Liftback, 4-door Saloon and a 5-door Estate, with a 5-door Hatchback version introduced in October 1998. In October 1999, the range

underwent a facelift, with cosmetic revisions to the front bumper, headlights, bonnet and front grille. To coincide with the facelift, a new

range of petrol engines, with variable intake camshaft timing, was introduced, replacing the existing units.

The petrol engines are all fuel injected, in-line,

four-cylinder units of 1332 cc, 1398 cc, 1587 cc

door Hatchback

or 1598 cc displacement with double overhead camshaft and 16 valves. All engines are normally aspirated, with the 1.4 litre and 1.6 litre VVT-i engines (October 1999-on), incorporating

an hydraulically controlled mechanism on the intake camshaft which varies the valve timing. This facility improves the driveability,

efficiency and emissions of the engines. All

engines feature a comprehensive engine

management system with extensive emission control equipment. Although two diesel engines were available, neither are covered

in this manual.

5- or 6-speed manual transmissions were available, along with 3- or 4-speed automatic options. Although a four-wheel-drive model was available in some markets, only the front-

wheel-drive versions are covered by this

manual.

Toyota Corolla 5-door Liftback

Braking is by discs at the front, and by drums or discs at the rear. Hydraulically operated power-assisted steering is standard on all models, with ABS available as an option.

A wide range of standard and optional equipment is available within the range to suit virtually all tastes. Both a driver's and passenger's airbag were fitted as standard,

with side airbags, incorporated into the front seats, and front seat belt pretensioners, available as an option on some models after the October 1999 facelift.

Provided that regular servicing is carried

out in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations, the Toyota Corolla will provide the enviable reliability for which this marque is famous. The engine compartment is relatively spacious, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily

accessible.

Your Toyota manual

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of

action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. The illustrations are numbered by the Section number and paragraph number to which they relate - if there is more than one illustration per paragraph, the sequence is denoted alphabetically.

References to the 'left' or 'right' of the

vehicle are in the sense of a person in the

driver's seat, facing forwards.

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Draper Tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who

helped in the production of this manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from the information given.

Roadside repairs 0•7

The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more

detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won't start and the starter motor doesn't turn

• If it's a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selector

is in P or N.

• Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are

clean and tight.

• Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the

headlights go very dim when you're trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page)

using a friend's car.

If your car won't start even though the starter motor turns as normal

• Is there fuel in the tank?

• Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet?

Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos.

Check the security of the ignition coil(s) electrical connectors.

Check the security of the airflow meter wiring plug.

Check that all fuses are still in good condition and none have blown.

Check the security and condition of the battery connections.

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with Check the security of the HT leads (nona water-dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect a problem due to damp E VVT-i engines).

0•8 Roadside repairs

Jump starting

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

• Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched

off.

• Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

• Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case.

• Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in

the vehicle.

• if the battery is being jump-started from

the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

• Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

The battery has been drained by

repeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

The charging system is not working

properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

The battery itself is at fault

(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine

on the vehicle to be started.

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the cooling fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster

battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection. Turn off the lights etc.

Roadside repairs 0•9

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or

a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.

Wheel changing

Preparation

• When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as it is safe to do so.

• Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic.

• Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

Changing the wheel

• If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence.

• Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear (or Park on models with automatic transmission).

• Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed - a couple of large stones will do for this.

• If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the jack.

From inside the luggage compartment, remove the trim panel and remove the

jack.. .

Prise off the wheel trim (where fitted), then slacken each wheel nut by a half turn, using the wheelbrace. If the nuts are

too tight, DON'T stand on the brace to undo them - call for assistance. On models with alloy wheels, a Toyota socket may be needed to remove the security nut - the socket should be in the glovebox or toolkit.

. . . or lift the panel in the luggage compartment floor. On some models the tools are stored with the spare wheel.

Engage the jack head with the reinforced

bracket located at the end of the sill (don't jack the vehicle at any other point of the sill).

Fit the spare wheel, then fit and screw on the nuts. Lightly tighten the nuts with the wheelbrace, then lower the vehicle to the

ground. Securely tighten the wheel nuts in the sequence shown, then refit the wheel trim or hub cap, as applicable. The wheel nuts should be slackened and retightened to the specified torque (103 Nm) at the earliest possible opportunity.

Lift the carpet then unscrew the spare wheel retainer from the centre of the wheel and lift out the wheel.

Turn the handle clockwise until the wheel is raised clear of the ground, then unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the wheel.

Finally...

• Remove the wheel chocks.

• Stow the jack and tools back in the car.

• Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don't have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the correct pressure.

Note: Some models are supplied with a special lightweight 'space-saver' spare wheel, the tyre being narrower than standard, and marked

TEMPORARY USE ONLY. The space-saver spare wheel is intended only for temporary use, and must be replaced with a standard wheel as soon as possible. Drive with particular care with this wheel fitted, especially through corners and when braking - Toyota recommend a maximum speed of 50 mph (80 km/h) when the special spare wheel is in use.

0•10 Roadside repairs

Identifying leaks

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what's leaking. Some

fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil

Oil from filter Gearbox oil

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug. or from the base of the oil filter. Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the

inboard ends of the driveshafts.

Antifreeze

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline A leak occurring at a wheel is almost deposit like this. certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

Towing

When all else fails, you may find yourself

having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY

towing using another car is easy enough, but

observe the following points:

• Use a proper tow-rope - they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window.

• Always turn the ignition key to the 'on' position when the vehicle is being towed,

so that the steering lock is released, and the direction indicator and brake lights work.

• A towing eye is provided below each bumper.

• Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. Toyota advise that automatic transmission models should only be towed for 'short distances at low speed'.

• Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running.

• Because the power steering will not be operational, greater-than-usual steering effort will also be required.

•The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching.

• Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off.

• Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions.

Weekly checks 0•11

Introduction

There are some very simple checks which • Keeping an eye on tyre condition and • your car develops a brake fluid leak, the

need only take a few minutes to carry out, but pressures, will not only help to stop them first time you might know about it is when your which could save you a lot of inconvenience wearing out prematurely, but could also save brakes don't work properly. Checking the level and expense. your life. regularly will give advance warning of this kind These Weekly checks require no great skill or •Many breakdowns are caused by electrical of problem. special tools, and the small amount of time problems. Battery-related faults are particularly • If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost they take to perform could prove to be very common, and a quick check on a regular basis of repairing any engine damage will be far well spent, for example: will often prevent the majority of these. greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Underbonnet check points

0•12 Weekly checks

Engine oil level

Before you start

• Make sure that your car is on level ground.

• Check the oil level before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.

If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the upper engine

components, resulting in an inaccurate

reading on the dipstick.

The dipstick top is brightly coloured for

easy identification (see Underbonnet)

The correct oil

Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (see Lubricants and fluids).

Car care

• If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, then the engine may be burning

oil.

• Always maintain the level between the

upper and lower dipstick marks. If the level is too low, severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled

by adding too much oil.

checkpoints for exact location). Withdraw the dipstick, and using a clean rag or paper towel remove all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again.

Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, 2 which should be between the maximum and minimum marks (arrowed)...

. . . or in the hatched area indicating MAX and MIN between the upper (F) mark and

lower (L) mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap.

Unscrew the cap and top-up the level;

a funnel may help to reduce spillage.

Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the

dipstick often. Don't overfill (see Car care).

Coolant level

Warning: Do not attempt to remove the radiator pressure cap or expansion tank cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very

great risk of scalding. Do not leave

open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

• With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.

• It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don't top up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become diluted.

The coolant reservoir is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. The coolant level is visible through the reservoir.

If topping-up is necessary, wait until the engine is cold and remove

the cap from the reservoir. Add a mixture of water and antifreeze to the reservoir until the coolant is at the correct level. Refit the cap and tighten it securely.

Weekly checks 0•13

Brake and clutch* fluid level

* Manual transmission models only.

Warning: Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution

when handling and pouring it. Do not use fluid which has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Before you start

• Make sure that the car is on level ground.

The fluid level in the brake reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must

never be allowed to drop below the MIN mark.

The MAX and MIN marks are indicated on the reservoirs. The brake fluid reservoir

(MAX and MIN marks arrowed) is located in the right-hand rear corner of the engine compartment...

. . . and the clutch reservoir is adjacent to it. The fluid level must be kept between

the marks (arrowed) at all times. If topping-up is necessary, first wipe clean the area around the filler cap to prevent dirt entering the hydraulic system.

Safety first!

• If the reservoir(s) require repeated toppingup, this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.

• If a leak is suspected, the car should not

be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.

Unscrew the brake fluid reservoir cap and carefully lift it out of position. The clutch fluid reservoir cap peels off. Inspect the

reservoir, if the fluid is dirty, the hydraulic system should be drained and refilled (see Chapter 1 or 6).

Carefully add fluid, taking care not to spill it onto the surrounding components. Use

only the specified fluid; mixing different types can cause damage to the system. After topping-up to the correct level, securely refit the cap and wipe off any spilt fluid. Reconnect the fluid level wiring connector.

Washer fluid level

• On models so equipped, the screen washer fluid is also used to clean the tailgate rear window.

• Screenwash additives not only keep the windscreen clean during bad weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don't top-up using plain water, as the screenwash will become diluted, and

will freeze in cold weather.

Caution: On no account use engine coolant

antifreeze in the screen washer system

- this may damage the paintwork.

The washer fluid reservoir filler is located at the front right-hand side of the engine compartment.

Release the cap and top-up the reservoir,

a screenwash additive should be added

in the quantities recommended on the

bottle.

0•14 Weekly checks

Tyre condition and pressure

It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh

braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then

immediately change the wheel, and have the

tyre repaired by a tyre dealer.

Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by "kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). if this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

1 Tread Depth - visual check

The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

2 Tread Depth - manual check

Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.

3 Tyre Pressure Check

Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately after the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Centre Wear

Uneven Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.

Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Overinflation

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.

Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car's tyres to the higher pressures specified for

maximum load or sustained high speed, don't

forget to reduce the pressures to normal

afterwards.

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Weekly checks 0•15

Power steering fluid level

Before you start

• Make sure that the car is on level ground.

• Set the steering wheel straight-ahead.

• The engine should be turned off.

Safety first!

• The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated immediately.

For the check to be accurate, the steering must not be turned once the engine has been stopped.

The reservoir is mounted on the righthand side of the engine compartment. The HOT and COLD levels are marked on the reservoir (arrowed)...

With the engine stopped check the level through the side of the reservoir, or dip the fluid with the reservoir cap/dipstick

by screwing it fully back into place. When the engine is cold, the fluid level should be between the between the COLD marks; when hot it should be between the HOT marks. Add fluid if necessary.

... whilst on others, it's necessary

to unscrew the cap/dipstick from the reservoir. Wipe clean the area around the

reservoir filler neck, before unscrewing the

filler cap/dipstick from the reservoir.

When topping-up, use the specified type of fluid - do not overfill the reservoir. When the level is correct, securely refit the cap.

Wiper blades

Note: Fitting details for wiper blades vary according to model, and according to whether genuine Toyota wiper blades have been fitted. Use the

procedures and illustrations shown as a guide for your car.

Check the condition of the wiper blades; if they are cracked or show any signs of

deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. Wiper blades should be renewed annually.

To remove a windscreen wiper blade, lift the wiper arm, rotate the blade on the arm and press the retaining clip (arrowed)

towards the arm.

Slide the blade down the wiper arm and remove it from the vehicle, taking care not to allow the arm to damage the windscreen.

0•16 Weekly checks

Battery

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in 'Safety first!' at the start of this manual.

• Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted,

• Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5A.

• If the battery is flat, and you need to jump

start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.

Open the bonnet and lift the small cover over the battery positive terminal

(arrowed). The exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a cracked case or cover.

Check the tightness of battery clamps to ensure good electrical connections. You should not be able to move them.

Also check each cable for cracks and frayed

conductors.

Battery corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the clamps and terminals after they are reconnected.

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is evident, remove the cables from the

battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them. Automotive stores sell a tool for cleaning the battery post...

... as well as the battery cable clamps.

Bulbs and fuses

• Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative.

• Visually check all accessible wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for

security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

If you need to check your brake lights and indicators unaided, back up to a wall or

garage door and operate the lights. The reflected light should show if they are working properly.

lf a single indicator light, stop-light or headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb has blown and will need to be renewed.

Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both stoplights have failed, it is possible that the stoplight switch is faulty (see Chapter 9).

If more than one indicator light or headlight has failed, it is likely that either a fuse has blown or that there is a fault

in the circuit (see Chapter 12). The fuses are located in the fusebox situated in the engine compartment on the passenger's side (fuse pulling tweezers arrowed).

To renew a blown fuse, simply pull it out using the plastic tweezers provided. Fit a

new fuse of the same rating (see Chapter 12). If the fuse blows again, it is important that you find out why - a complete checking procedure is given in Chapter 12.

Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures 0•17

Lubricants and fluids

Engine*

1.3 litre and 1.6 litre non-VVT-i engines Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W/30 or 15W/30

1.4 litre and 1.6 litre VVT-i engines Multigrade engine oil, viscosity 5W/30

Cooling system Toyota long life coolant Manual transmission SAE 75W/90 GL4 or GL5 Automatic transmission ATF Dexron II or III

Automatic transmission differential ATF Dexron II or III

Braking system Brake and clutch fluid to DOT 3 or 4 Clutch system Brake and clutch fluid to DOT 3 or 4 Power steering Dexron II or III

* Certain models have a decal in the engine compartment which details the engine oil specification. Where no decal is fitted, follow the above

recommendations.

Tyre pressures

All models (typical) Front Rear

165/70 R14 tyres 32 psi 32 psi 175/65 R14 tyres 32 psi 32 psi 185/65 R14 tyres 32 psi 32 psi

Space-saver tyre 60 psi 60 psi

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Contents

Section number

Air filter element check......................................................................... 10

Automatic transmission/differential fluid level check.......................... 7

Auxiliary drivebelt check, adjustment and renewal............................. 9

Brake fluid renewal.................................................................................. 21

Brake drum and shoe check.............................................................. 13

Brake pad check................................................................................... 12

Clutch pedal check and adjustment.................................................... 17

Coolant renewal....................................................................................... 23

Driveshaft gaiter and CV joints check................................................. 5

Engine oil and filter renewal.................................................................. 3

Exhaust system and mountings check............................................... .14

Fuel filter renewal..................................................................................... 20

General information................................................................................. 1

Section number

Handbrake check and adjustment........................................................ 11

Hinge and lock lubrication..................................................................... 6

Hose and fluid leak check..................................................................... 4

Manual transmission fluid level check and renewa.............................. 8

Pollen filter check.................................................................................. 13

Remote control battery renewal............................................................ 16

Road test............................................................................................... 19

Routine maintenance............................................................................ 2

Spark plug renewal................................................................................ 22

Steering and suspension check............................................................ 15

Timing belt renewa............................................................. See Chapter 2A

Valve clearance check and adjustment................................................ 24

Degrees of difficulty

1•1

1•4 Maintenance schedule

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you, not the dealer, will be doing the work. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the factory for vehicles that are driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures even more often. Because frequent maintenance enhances the

efficiency, performance and resale value of your car, we encourage you to do so. If you drive in dusty areas, tow a trailer, idle or drive at low speeds for extended periods or drive for short distances (less than 6 kilometers) in below freezing temperatures, shorter intervals are also recommended.

When your vehicle is new, it should be

serviced by a factory authorised dealer service

department to protect the factory warranty. In many cases, the initial maintenance check is

done at no cost to the owner.

Two maintenance schedules are given below.

One for non-VVT-i models (1.3 litre 4E-FE and

1.6 litre 4A-FE engines) from 1997 to Oct '99,

and one for VVT-i models (1.4 litre 4ZZ-FE and

1.6 litre 3ZZ-FE engines) from Oct '99

onwards.

1.3 and 1.6 litre non-VVT-i models

Every 400 km or weekly

• Refer to Weekly checks

Every 7000 km or 6 months - whichever comes sooner

• Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3).

Note: Frequent oil and filter changes are good for the engine. We recommend changing the oil at the mileage specified here, or at least twice a year if the mileage covered is a less.

Every 30 000 km or

2 years - whichever comes sooner

• Renew the air filter element (Section 10).

• Renew the fuel filter (Section 20).

• Renew the brake fluid (Section 21).

• Renew the spark plugs (Section 22).

Every 15 000 km or

12 months - whichever comes sooner

• Check all underbonnet components or fluid leaks

(Section 4).

• Check the condition of the driveshaft rubber gaiters

and CV joints (Section 5).

• Lubricate ail hinges and locks (Section 6).

• Check the transmission fluid level (Section 7 or 8).

• Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 9).

• Check the condition of the air filter element (Section 10).

• Check the operation of the handbrake (Section 11).

• Check the condition of the brake pads (Section 12).

• Check the condition of the brake drums and shoes

(Section 13).

• Check the condition of the exhaust system and

mountings (Section 14).

• Inspect the suspension and steering components

(Section 15).

• Renew remote alarm/locking handset battery

(Section 16).

• Check the clutch pedal adjustment (Section 17).

• Check the condition of the pollen filter (Section 18).

• Carry out a road test (Section 19).

Every 60 000 km or 4 years - whichever comes sooner

• Renew the transmission fluid (Section 7 or 8).

• Renew the coolant (Section 23).

Every 90 000 km or 6 years - whichever comes sooner

• Renew the timing belt (See Chapter 2A).

Note: Although the normal interval for timing belt renewal is 100 000 km,

it is strongly recommended that the interval is reduced to

90 000 km, especially on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use, ie, mainly short journeys or a lot of stop-start driving. The actual belt renewal interval is therefore very much up to the individual owner, but bear in mind that severe engine damage will result if the belt breaks.

• Check and adjust the valve clearances

(Section 24).

Maintenance schedule 1•5

1.4 and 1.6 litre VVT-i models

Every 400 km or weekly

• Refer to Weekly checks

Every 8000 km or

6 months - whichever comes sooner

• Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3).

Note: Frequent oil and filter changes are good for the engine. We

recommend changing the oil at the mileage specified here, or at least

twice a year if the mileage covered is a less.

Every 16 000 km or

12 months - whichever comes sooner

• Check all underbonnet components or fluid leaks (Section 4).

• Check the condition of the driveshaft rubber gaiters and CV joints (Section 5).

• Lubricate all hinges and locks (Section 6).

• Check the transmission fluid level* (Section 7 or 8).

• Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 9).

• Check the condition of the air filter element (Section 10).

• Check the operation of the handbrake (Section 11).

• Check the condition of the brake pads (Section 12).

• Check the condition of the exhaust system and mountings (Section 14).

• Inspect the suspension and steering components (Section 15).

• Check the clutch pedal adjustment (Section 17).

• Check the condition of the pollen filter (Section 18).

• Carry out a road test (Section 19).

* Note: Toyota do not specify an interval for checking the manual

transmission fluid level.

Every 32 000 km or

2 years - whichever comes sooner

• Check the condition of the brake drums and shoes (Section 13).

• Renew remote alarm/locking handset battery (Section 16).

• Renew the brake fluid (Section 21).

Every 64 000 km or

3 years - whichever comes sooner

• Renew the coolant (Section 23).

Every 64 000 km or

4 years - whichever comes sooner

• Renew the transmission fluid* (Section 7 or 8).

• Renew the air filter element (Section 10).

• Renew the spark plugs (Section 22).

* Note: Toyota do not specify an interval for renewing the automatic

transmission fluid.

Every 96 000 km or

6 years - whichever comes sooner

• Renew the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 9).

• Check and adjust the valve clearances (Section 24).

1•6 Maintenance - component location

Front underbonnet view of a 1.3 litre model

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Oil level dipstick Engine oil filler cap Brake fluid reservoir

Air cleaner housing

Coolant reservoir Battery Fuse/relay box Ignition coils Power steering reservoir

Washer fluid reservoir

Test socket

Front underbonnet view of a 1.4 litre VVT-i model

1 2

3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Oil level dipstick Engine oil filler cap Brake fluid reservoir Clutch fluid reservoir

Coolant reservoir Battery Fuse/relay box Ignition coils Power steering reservoir Washer fluid reservoir

Air cleaner housing

Maintenance - component location 1•7

Front underbody view (VVT-i model shown - other models similar)

1 Oil filter

2 Engine oil drain plug 3 Coolant reservoir 4 Right-hand driveshaft 5 Anti-roll bar 6 Suspension control arm

7 Track rod end

8 Catalytic converter 9 Radiator drain tap

Rear underbody view

1 Fuel tank 2 Exhaust rear silencer 3 Strut rod 4 No 1 suspension arm 5 No 2 suspension arm 6 Handbrake cable 7 Anti-roll bar

1•8 Maintenance procedures

1 General information

1 This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance. 2 The Chapter contains master maintenance schedules, followed by Sections dealing

specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components. 3 Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals will not produce the same results. 4 As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can

- and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised

for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected

at the same time as the suspension and steering components.

5 The first step in this maintenance

programme is to prepare yourself before the

actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather together all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.

2 Routine maintenance

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested

3.3 Left- and right-hand engine undershields (arrowed)

throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 It is possible that there will be times when

the engine is running poorly due to the lack

of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the

regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test (refer to Chapter 2A) will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work (Chapter 2B) is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See

'Weekly checks').

b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See

'Weekly checks').

c) Check the condition and tension of the

auxiliary drivebelt (Section 9). d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 22). e) Check the condition of the air cleaner

filter element, and renew if necessary

(Section 10). f) Renew the fuel filter - non-VVT-i engine

models only (Section 20). g) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks (Section 4).

5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following operations:

Secondary operations

All items listed under Primary operations, plus the following:

a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A). b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B). c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4A).

3.4 Slacken the engine oil drain plug (arrowed)

3 Engine oil and filter renewal

Non-VVT-i models every 7000 km or 6 months

VVT-i models -

every 8000 km or 6 months

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the

DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop-up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access

to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly

improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven

onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the lowest point. 3 Although not strictly necessary, to improve access, undo the screws and remove the right-hand engine undershield - where fitted

(see illustration).

4 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn (see

illustration). Position the draining container

under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely. If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns (see Haynes Hint). Recover the sealing ring from the drain plug.

As the drain plug releases from the sump threads, move it away sharply, so the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve.

Maintenance procedures 1•9

3.6 Fit a new sealing washer to the drain plug

5 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,

noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle. 6 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag, and fit a new sealing washer (see illustration). Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug, tightening it to the specified torque. 7 Move the container into position under the oil filter, which is located on the front of the cylinder block. 8 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustrations). Empty the oil in the old filter into the container.

9 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn't stuck to the engine. If it has, carefully remove it.

10 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to

the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it

into position on the engine (see illustration).

Tighten the filter firmly by hand only - do not

use any tools. 11 Remove the old oil and all tools from

under the car, then lower the car to the ground (if applicable). 12 Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover. Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil (see Weekly checks). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to run to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding approximately 1 litre will bring

the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick.

Refit the filler cap. 13 Start the engine and run it for a few

minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter before the pressure builds-up. 14 Refit the engine undershield (where applicable), and secure it in place with the screw fasteners.

3.8a Oil filter - Non-VVT-i engines

3.8b Oil filter - VVT-i engines (arrowed)

3.8c Use a filter removal tool

15 Switch off the engine, and wait a few

minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once

more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.

16 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with

reference to General repair procedures.

4 Hose and fluid leak check

Non-VVT-i models every 15 000 km or 12 months

VVT-i models every 16 000 km or 12 months

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas

around the cylinder head cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that, over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected

- what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapters in this manual.

2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable ties or securing clips are in place, and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious problems in the future.

3.10 Apply a little clean oil to the filter sealing ring

3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and

heater hoses along their entire length.

Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen

or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling system leaks. If crimped-type hose clips are used, it may be a good idea to use standard

worm-drive clips.

4 Inspect all the cooling system components (hoses, joint faces, etc) for leaks (see Haynes

Hint).

5 Where any problems are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3.

6 Where applicable, inspect the automatic

A leak in the cooling system will usually

show up as white- or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak.

1•10 Maintenance procedures

5.1 Check the driveshaft gaiters for signs of damage or deterioration

transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or

deterioration.

7 With the vehicle raised, inspect the petrol tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber. 8 Carefully check all rubber hoses and fuel pipes leading away from the petrol tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the filler neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the pipes to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary.

9 From within the engine compartment, check

7.3 Automatic transmission oil level dipstick (arrowed)

7.4 HOT max and min marks are the

right-hand arrows, the COOL max and min

marks are on the left

the security of all fuel pipe attachments and unions, and inspect the fuel pipes and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 10 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.

5 Driveshaft gaiter and

CV joints check

Non-VVT-i models every 15 000 km or 12 months

VVT-i models every 16 000 km or 12 months

1 With the vehicle raised and securely

supported on stands (see Jacking and vehicle support), turn the steering onto full lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the

condition of the outer constant velocity (CV) joint gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open

out the folds (see illustration). Check for signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the gaiter, which may allow the grease to escape, and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the inner CV joints. If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed (see Chapter 8). 2 At the same time, check the general condition of the CV joints themselves by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and attempting

to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable

movement indicates wear in the joints, wear in the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut.

6 Hinge and lock lubrication

Non-VVT-i models -

every 15 000 km or 12 months VVT-i models -

every 16 000 km or 12 months

1 Work around the vehicle, and lubricate the

7.7 Automatic transmission drain plug (arrowed)

hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate with a small amount of general-purpose oil. 2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release mechanism and exposed section of inner

cable with a smear of grease. 3 Check carefully the security and operation of all hinges, latches and locks, adjusting them where required. Check the operation of the central locking system (if fitted). 4 Check the condition and operation of the tailgate struts, renewing them if either is leaking or no longer able to support the tailgate securely when raised.

7 Automatic transmission/

differential fluid level check

Non-VVT-i models -

every 15 000 km or 12 months VVT-i models -

every 16 000 km or 12 months

Automatic transmission

1 The transmission should be at normal operating temperature. Set the selector lever in the Park position, making sure the vehicle is parked on a level surface. 2 Start the engine and allow it to idle. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the selector lever through all the positions, then return it to Park. 3 Pull out the transmission oil level dipstick, and wipe it clean (see illustration). 4 Fully insert the dipstick, then pull it out again. The level should be within the two notches either side of the HOT mark on the

dipstick (see illustration). If not, add fluid and check again. 5 Check the condition of the fluid. If it smells

burnt or is blackened, the fluid must be

renewed as follows. 6 Stop the engine, jack up the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Place a suitable container under the transmission drain plug. 7 Using an Allen (hexagonal) key, unscrew the drain plug and allow the fluid to drain into the container (see illustration). When all the fluid has drained, refit the plug, tightening it to the specified torque. 8 Fill the transmission through the dipstick aperture with the correct quantity of specified fluid, and check the level as previously described.

Differential

9 The three-speed automatic transmission differential has a separate lubricant supply with a check/filler plug which must be removed to check the level. 10 Remove the filler plug from the front of the differential (see illustration). 11 Use your finger as a dipstick to make sure the lubricant level is even with the bottom of

Maintenance procedures 1•11

7.10 Differential filler and drain plug details (three-speed automatic transmission)

the plug hole. If not, use a syringe or a gear oil pump to add the recommended lubricant until it just starts to run out of the hole. Refit the plug and tighten it securely. 12 To renew the differential fluid, position a container under the differential fluid drain plug, remove the plug and allow the fluid to

drain. Tighten the plug securely.

13 Refill the differential as described in paragraphs 9 to 11.

8 Manual transmission fluid

level check

Non-VVT-i models every 15 000 km or 12 months

VVT-i models -

every 16 000 km or 12 months

Level check

1 The manual transmission does not have a dipstick. To check the fluid level, raise the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Undo the

screws and remove the left-hand side engine

undershield (where fitted). 2 On the lower front side of the transmission housing, you will see a plug (see illustration). Remove it. If the lubricant level is correct, it should be up to the lower edge of the hole. 3 If the transmission needs more lubricant (if the level is not up to the hole), use a syringe or a gear oil pump to add more. Stop filling the transmission when the lubricant begins to run out the hole. 4 Refit the plug and tighten it to the specified torque. Drive the vehicle a short distance, then check for leaks.

Fluid renewal

5 Take the vehicle for a drive of sufficient

length to warm-up the transmission fluid.

Although this is not essential, it does help to ensure all the fluid is drained, along with any contaminants. 6 Raise the vehicle, and remove the left-hand engine undershield as described in paragraph 1. 7 The fluid drain plug is located on the underside of the transmission casing (see

illustration). Position a suitable container, and

8.2 Manual transmission fluid level plug (arrowed)

undo the drain plug. Recover the drain plug

sealing washer. Renew it if it shows any sign

of damage, wear, or deformity. 8 Once the fluid has finished draining, refit the drain plug (with a new washer where necessary), and tighten it to the specified torque. 9 Remove the filler plug and refill the transmission as described in paragraphs 2, 3 and 4.

9 Auxiliary drivebelt check,

adjustment and renewal

Non-VVT-i models every 15 000 km or 12 months

VVT-i models every 16 000 km or 12 months

Check

1 The alternator, power steering pump,

coolant pump (VVT-i engines) and air conditioning compressor drivebelt(s), also referred to as simply 'fan' belts, are located at the right end of the engine. The good condition and proper adjustment of the belts is critical to the operation of the engine. Because of their composition and the high stresses to which they are subjected, drivebelts stretch

and deteriorate as they get older. They must therefore be periodically inspected. 2 The number of belts used on a particular vehicle depends on the engine type and accessories installed. On Non-VVT-i engines, one belt transmits power from the crankshaft

8.7 Manual transmission fluid drain plug (arrowed)

to the coolant pump and alternator. If the vehicle is equipped with power steering and/ or air conditioning, a separate belt (or two separate belts) drive these components. On VVT-i engines one belt is used to drive all the pulleys. 3 With the engine stopped, open the bonnet and locate the drivebelt(s). With a torch, check each belt for separation of the adhesive rubber

on both sides of the core, core separation from the belt side, a severed core, separation of the ribs from the adhesive rubber, cracking or separation of the ribs, and torn or worn ribs or cracks in the inner ridges of the ribs (see illustration). Also check for fraying and glazing, which gives the belt a shiny appearance. Both sides of the belt should be inspected, which means you will have to twist the belt to check the underside. Use your

fingers to feel the belt where you can't see

it. If any of the above conditions are evident, renew the belt.

4 On non-VVT-i engines only, to check the tension of each belt, the following rule of thumb method is recommended: Push firmly on the belt with your thumb at a distance halfway between the pulleys and note how far the belt can be pushed (deflected). Measure this deflection with a ruler (see illustration).

The belt should deflect approximately 6.0 mm

if the distance from pulley centre to pulley

centre is between 200 to 300 mm; the belt should deflect approximately 12 mm if the distance from pulley centre to pulley centre

is between 300 and 400 mm. Note: On VVT-i

engines, the tension of the belt is maintained by an automatic tensioner mechanism.

9.3 Check the multi-ribbed belt for signs

of wear like these - if the belt looks worn,

renew it

9.4 Measure the drivebelt deflection with a straight-edge and ruler

1•12 Maintenance procedures

9.5 After slackening the idler pulley locknut, turn the adjusting bolt

9.10 Use a spanner on the hexagonal

section (arrowed) of the auxiliary drivebelt

tensioner

Adjustment

Note: The following procedure applies only to the Non-VVT-i engines.

5 Two adjustment methods are used for the drivebelts according to their arrangement. On

10.2a Release the clips (arrowed)...

10.2c Release the spring clips ...

9.8 When refitting a multi-ribbed belt,

ensure it is centred - it must not overlap

either edge of the pulleys

9.12 Fit the new belt to the pulleys

all models, the alternator drivebelt is adjusted by loosening the mounting and adjustment/ lockbolts then moving the alternator either by hand, or by turning the adjuster bolt, as necessary, while checking the tension in

accordance with one of the above methods.

10.2b ... lift off the cover and the air filter element (Non-VVT-i engines)

10.2d ... then lift out the air filter element (VVT-i engines)

Tighten the mounting and adjustment/lockbolts when the tension is correct. To adjust the tension of the other belts, first check to see if an idler

pulley is used in the belt arrangement. If an idler pulley is fitted, loosen the idler pulley locknut and turn the adjusting bolt (see illustration). Measure the belt tension in accordance with one of the above methods. Repeat this step until the drivebelt is adjusted correctly then tighten the idler pulley locknut. If an idler pulley is not fitted, adjustment is carried out at the power steering pump. Loosen the adjustment bolt that secures the pump to the slotted bracket and pivot the pump (away from the engine to tighten the belt, toward it to loosen it). Repeat the procedure until the drivebelt tension is correct and tighten

the bolt.

Renewal

Non-VVT-i engines

6 To renew a belt, follow the above procedures for drivebelt adjustment but slip the belt off the relevant pulleys and remove it. Depending on which belt you are renewing, it will probably be necessary to remove an outer belt first because of the way they are arranged on the pulleys. Because of this, and because belts tend to wear out more or less together, it is a good idea to renew all the belts at the same time. Mark each belt and its appropriate pulley groove so the new belts can be installed in their proper positions. 7 Take the old belts to the parts store in order

to make a direct comparison for length, width

and design.

8 After renewing the drivebelt, make sure that

it fits properly in the ribbed grooves in the

pulleys (see illustration). It is essential that the belt be properly centred. 9 Adjust the belt(s) in accordance with the procedure outlined above.

VVT-i engines

10 Using a spanner on the hexagonal section, rotate the tensioner clockwise to relieve the

tension on the belt (see illustration).

11 Lift the belt from the pulleys. 12 Fit the new belt to the pulleys then, holding

the tensioner clockwise, fit the belt around the tensioner pulley, and gently release the tensioner (see illustration). If better access

is required, undo the screws and remove the

right-hand side engine undershield.

10 Air filter element check

Non-VVT-i models every 15 000 km or 12 months

VVT-i models -

every 16 000 km or 12 months

1 The air filter is located inside a housing at the left side of the engine compartment. 2 To remove the air filter, release the spring clips that keep the two halves of the air cleaner housing together, then lift the cover

Maintenance procedures 1•13

up and remove the air filter element (see

illustrations).

3 Inspect the outer surface of the filter

element. If it is dirty, renew it. If it is only moderately dusty, it can be re-used by

blowing it clean from the back to the front surface with compressed air. Because it is a pleated paper type filter, it cannot be washed or oiled. If it cannot be cleaned satisfactorily with compressed air, discard and renew it. While the cover is off, be careful not to drop anything down into the housing.

Caution: Never drive the vehicle with the

air cleaner removed. Excessive engine

wear could result and backfiring could

even cause a fire under the bonnet

4 Wipe out the inside of the air cleaner housing.

5 Place the new filter into the air cleaner

housing, making sure it seats properly.

6 Refitting of the cover is the reverse of removal.

11 Handbrake check

and adjustment

Non-VVT-i models every 15 000 km or 12 months

VVT-i models every 16 000 km or 12 months

1 To check the handbrake adjustment, applying normal moderate pressure, pull the handbrake lever to the fully-applied position, counting the number of clicks emitted from the handbrake ratchet mechanism, if adjustment is correct, the handbrake should be fully applied after 4 to 7 (rear drum brake models) or 5 to 8 (rear disc models) clicks have been emitted. If this is not the case, adjust the handbrake as described in Chapter 9.

12 Brake pad check

Non-VVT-i models -

every 15 000 km or 12 months VVT-i models -

every 16 000 km or 12 months

1 Slacken the front roadwheel bolts. Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front roadwheels. 2 For a quick check, the pad thickness can be carried out via the inspection hole on the front caliper (see Haynes Hint). Using a steel rule, measure the thickness of the pad friction material. This must not be less than the specified minimum given in the Specifications. 3 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then be checked,

and the brake disc itself can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for details. 4 If any pad's friction material is worn to the specified minimum thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed as a set. Refer to Chapter 9 for details. 5 On completion, refit the roadwheels then

lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the wheel bolts to the specified torque. 6 Slacken the rear roadwheel bolts. Jack up the

rear of the car and support it securely on axle stands. Remove the rear roadwheels. Repeat the procedure described in Paragraphs 2 to 5 on the rear brake pads.

13 Brake drum and shoe check

Non-VVT-i models every 15 000 km or 12 months

VVT-i models -

every 32 000 km or 2 years

Warning: Brake dust produced by lining wear and deposited on brake components may

contain asbestos, which is hazardous to your health. DO NOT blow it out with compressed air and DO NOT inhale it DO NOT use petrol or solvents to remove the dust Brake system cleaner should be used to flush the dust into a drain pan. After the brake components are wiped clean with a damp rag, dispose of the contaminated rag(s) and solvent in a covered and labelled container. Try to use non-asbestos parts whenever possible.

1 Refer to Chapter 9 and remove the rear brake drums. 2 Note the thickness of the lining material on the rear brake shoes (see illustration) and look for signs of contamination by brake fluid and grease. 3 If the lining material is within 1.0 mm of the recessed rivets or metal shoes, renew the brake shoes. The shoes should also be renewed if

they are cracked, glazed (shiny lining surfaces)

or contaminated with brake fluid or grease. See Chapter 9 for the renewal procedure. 4 Check the shoe return and hold-down springs and the adjusting mechanism to make

For a quick check, then thickness of the friction material on each brake pad can be measured through the aperture in

the caliper body.

sure they're installed correctly and in good condition. Deteriorated or distorted springs, if not renewed, could allow the linings to drag and wear prematurely. 5 Check the wheel cylinders for leakage by carefully peeling back the rubber boots (see illustration). If brake fluid is noted behind the boots, the wheel cylinders must be renewed (see Chapter 9). 6 Check the drums for cracks, score marks, deep scratches and hard spots, which will appear as small discoloured areas. If imperfections cannot be removed with emery cloth, the drums must be resurfaced by an automotive engineering workshop (see Chapter 9 for more detailed information).

7 Refit the brake drums (see Chapter 9). 8 Refit the wheels and nuts. 9 Remove the axle stands and lower the vehicle.

10 Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque.

14 Exhaust system

and mountings check

Non-VVT-i models every 15 000 km or 12 months

VVT-i models every 16 000 km or 12 months

With the engine cold (at least an hour after

13.2 Measure the thickness of the brake shoe friction material

13.5 Peel back the wheel cylinder rubber boots and check for leaks

1•14 Maintenance procedures

the car has been driven), check the complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system is most easily checked with the car raised on a hoist, or suitably-supported on axle stands, so that the exhaust components are readily visible and accessible. 2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and damage. Make sure that all brackets and mountings are in good condition, and that all relevant nuts and bolts are tight (see illustration). Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. 3 Rattles and other noises can often be

traced to the exhaust system, especially the

brackets and mountings. Try to move the

pipes and silencers. If the components are able to come into contact with the body or suspension parts, secure the system with new mountings. Otherwise separate the joints (if possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to provide additional clearance.

15 Steering and

suspension check

Non-VVT-i models every 15 000 km or 12 months

VVT-i models every 16 000 km or 12 months

Front suspension and steering

1 Raise the front of the vehicle, and securely

support it on axle stands (see Jacking and

vehicle support).

2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steering gear gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of these components will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 Check the power steering fluid pipes/hoses

for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and

hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from

the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would

15.4 Check for wear in the hub bearings

by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it

14.2 Check the condition of the exhaust rubber mountings

indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear. 4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement is now eliminated or significantly

reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the

suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track rod balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be obvious. 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check

for wear in the suspension mounting bushes

by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition

of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 7 With the car standing on its wheels, have an assistant turn the steering wheel backand-forth about an eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any, lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously

16.1 Prise open the remote control cover

described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and the

steering gear itself.

Strut/shock absorber

8 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around the suspension strut/shock absorber body, or from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod. Should any fluid be noticed, the suspension strut/shock absorber is defective internally, and should be renewed. Note:

Suspension struts/shock absorbers should always be renewed in pairs on the same axle, or the handling of the vehicle will be adversely affected.

9 The efficiency of the suspension strut/shock absorber may be checked by bouncing the vehicle at each corner. Generally speaking, the body will return to its normal position and stop after being depressed. If it rises and returns on a rebound, the suspension strut/shock absorber is probably suspect. Examine also the suspension strut/shock absorber upper and lower mountings for any signs of wear.

16 Remote control battery

renewal

Non-VVT-i models -

every 15 000 km or 12 months VVT-i models -

every 32 000 km or 2 years

Non-VVT-i models

1 Using a screwdriver or coin, prise open

the cover from the remote control unit (see

illustration).

2 Note how the batteries are fitted (positive side away from the buttons), then carefully

remove them from the contacts. 3 Fit the new battery (CR2016) and refit the cover making sure that it clips fully onto the

base (see illustration).

VVT-i models

4 Undo the small screw and lift the cover from the remote control unit (see illustration). 5 Lift the module from the unit, then remove the battery case cover (see illustration).

16.3 The positive side of the battery faces away from the buttons

Maintenance procedures 1•15

16.4 Undo the small screw and lift the remote control cover

6 Note how it's fitted (positive side upwards) and remove the battery (CR2016) (see illustration). 7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

17 Clutch pedal check

and adjustment

Non-VVT-i models every 15 000 km or 12 months

VVT-i models every 16 000 km or 12 months

1 Press down lightly on the clutch pedal and, with a small steel ruler, measure the distance that it moves freely before the clutch resistance

is felt (see illustration). The freeplay should be

1.0 to 5.0 mm. If it isn't proceed as follows: 2 Slacken the locknut on the pedal end of the clutch pushrod (see illustration). 3 Turn the pushrod until the pedal freeplay is correct, then tighten the locknut. 4 After adjusting the freeplay, check the pedal height from the centre of the pedal pad to the footwell metal floor. The distance should be

141.1 to 151.1 mm. 5 If the pedal height is incorrect, slacken the locknut and turn the stop bolt until the height is correct. Tighten the locknut.

18 Pollen filter check

Non-VVT-i models every 15 000 km or 12 months

VVT-i models every 16 000 km or 12 months

1 Reach under the passenger's side of the facia, remove the retaining clips and remove the cover over the filter (see illustration). 2 Pull the tab downwards, and pull the filter from the housing (see illustration). The filter is designed to fold as it's withdrawn. 3 Check the condition of the filter, and renew it if dirty. 4 Wipe clean the inside of the housing and fit the pollen filter element, making sure that it is correctly seated.

16.5 Prise open the battery case cover

17.1 To check the clutch pedal free play, measure the distance between the natural resting place of the pedal and point where

you encounter resistance

5 Refit the pollen filter cover and secure it in place with the clips.

19 Road test

Non-VVT-i models every 15 000 km or 12 months

VVT-i models every 16 000 km or 12 months

Instruments and electrical equipment

1 Check the operation of all instruments and electrical equipment.

2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly,

16.6 The battery is fitted positive side upwards

17.2 The clutch pedal pushrod play, pedal

height and free play adjustments are made

by slackening the locknut and turning the

threaded adjuster

and switch on all electrical equipment in turn

to check it functions properly.

Steering and suspension

3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road 'feel'. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are

no unusual vibrations or noises. 5 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive 'sloppiness', or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering, or when driving over bumps.

Drivetrain

6 Check the performance of the engine, clutch, transmission and driveshafts. 7 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and transmission.

18.1 Pull out the clips (arrowed) and remove the pollen filter cover

18.2 Pull the filter downwards from the housing

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Toyota COROLLA Saloon, COROLLA Hatchback, COROLLA Liftback, COROLLA Estate Owners Workshop Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual