Top Flite T-34B MENTOR User Manual
WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does
not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite‘s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves
the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed
nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting
liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused
condition to the place of purchase.
Top Flite Models P.O. Box 788 Urbana, Il 61803 Technical Assistance Call (217)398-8970 productsupport@top-flite.com
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
USA
MADE IN
T349P03 for TOPA0160 V1.0
Entire Contents © Copyright 2002
Wingspan: 80 in [2032 mm]
Wing Area: 1025 sq in [66.1 sq dm]
Weight: 10 to 14 lb [4536 – 6350 g]
Wing Loading: 22.5 to 31.5 oz/sq ft
[68.7 – 96.1 g/sq dm]
Fuselage Length: 62.8 in [1595 mm]
™
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION ...................................................3
PRECAUTIONS.....................................................3
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE............................4
Engine selection..............................................4
Exhaust system...............................................4
Retractable landing gear .................................4
Flaps................................................................4
TOP FLITE SCALE ACCESSORIES....................4
Operational lighting .........................................4
Scale cockpit interior .......................................5
NOTES FOR COMPETITION
MINDED MODELERS......................................5
DOCUMENTATION................................................5
NOTES FROM THE DESIGNER ...........................5
DIE-CUT PATTERNS......................................6 & 7
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED ..................................8
Accessories .....................................................8
Building supplies .............................................8
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES..........................9
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS ...............................9
TYPES OF WOOD.................................................9
GET READY TO BUILD ........................................9
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES .............................10
Make the skins for the tail surfaces...............10
Build the stab and elevators .........................11
Build the fin and rudder ................................16
BUILD THE WING ...............................................18
Make the wing skins......................................18
Preparations ..................................................18
Build the outer wing panels...........................19
Sheet the top of the wing panels ..................21
Finish the outer wing panels .........................22
Build the center section.................................25
Sheet the top center section .........................26
Prepare the wing bottom for sheeting...........27
Sheet the bottom of the wing panels ............28
Cut out the wheel wells .................................29
Build the wing tips .........................................29
Build the flaps................................................30
Build the ailerons...........................................32
Mount the flap and aileron servos.................32
Join the wing panels .....................................33
Make the flap and aileron pushrods..............33
BUILD THE FUSELAGE .....................................34
Preparation....................................................34
Build the bottom of the fuselage ...................35
Mount the servos...........................................36
Finish framing the fuse..................................36
Sheet the fuselage sides...............................37
MOUNT THE STAB AND FIN .............................38
Center the stab..............................................39
Align the stab horizontally .............................40
Mount the fin .................................................40
Build the turtle deck .....................................41
Build the dorsal fin ........................................43
Hook up the rudder and elevator ..................43
Fit the tail cone..............................................44
Sheet the bottom of the fuselage..................44
MOUNT THE ENGINE.........................................45
MOUNT THE NOSE LANDING GEAR ...............46
Fixed gear .....................................................46
Retractable nose gear...................................47
FINISH CONSTRUCTION ...................................49
Hook up the throttle.......................................49
Mount the wing to the fuse............................50
Sheet the forward deck .................................50
Sheet the forward bottom..............................52
Fit the canopy................................................53
Sheet the wing center section bottom...........54
Make the belly pan........................................55
Build and fit the cowl to the fuselage ............55
FINISHING...........................................................57
Fuel proofing .................................................57
Cockpit details...............................................58
Scale details..................................................58
Final sanding.................................................58
Cover your model with MonoKote film ..........58
Painting..........................................................59
Join the control surfaces ...............................59
Make the panel outlines ................................59
Apply the decals............................................60
GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY ..................60
Balance your model ......................................60
Balance the airplane laterally........................61
Install your receiver and battery pack ...........61
Control surface throws ..................................62
PREFLIGHT ........................................................63
Charge your batteries....................................63
Balance your propellers ................................63
Find a safe place to fly..................................63
Ground check your model.............................63
Range check your radio ................................63
Engine safety precautions.............................63
FLYING ................................................................63
Fuel mixture adjustment................................64
Takeoff ...........................................................64
Flight..............................................................64
Landing..........................................................64
Flaps..............................................................64
TWO-VIEW DRAWING........................Back Cover
Your Beechcraft T-34B Mentor is not a toy, but a
sophisticated working model that functions very
much like an actual airplane. Because of its realistic
performance, if you do not assemble and operate
your T-34B Mentor correctly, you could possibly injure
yourself or spectators and damage property.
To make your R/C modeling experience totally
enjoyable, get assistance with assembly and your
first flights from an experienced, knowledgeable
modeler. You’ll learn faster and avoid risking your
model before you’re truly ready to solo.Your local hobby
shop has information about flying clubs in your area
whose membership includes qualified instructors.
You can also contact the Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,600
chartered clubs across the United States. We
recommend you join the AMA which will insure you at
AMA club sites and events. AMA Membership is
required at chartered club fields where qualified flight
instructors are available.
Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below:
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
(800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org
PROTECT YOUR MODEL,
YOURSELF & OTHERS
FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
- 2 -
INTRODUCTION
Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the
Top Flite Gold Edition Beechcraft T-34B Mentor.
Since this is a scale model with lots of detail, you’ll
find it takes longer to complete than the sport models
you’ve built before. But since this is a Top Flite Gold
Edition kit, it isn’t more difficult to build than those
sport models. The Top Flite T-34B Mentor uses the
same materials and standard construction
techniques you’ve already become accustomed to.
You won’t have to learn anything new to end up with
a first class scale model! Not only that, nearly all of
the trim schemes you’ll find on full size T-34B
Mentors are quite simple and should be easy to
duplicate with Top Flite MonoKote film! The Top Flite
Beechcraft T-34B Mentor is an excellent Sportsman
or Expert Scale subject. Its large size and accurate
scale outline afford you the opportunity to go all out
with as many extra details as you like. And with the
abundance of T-34B Mentors at airports around the
country, finding a full-scale plane to model shouldn’t
be a problem.
Anyone who has mastered a low wing sport model
should be able to fly the T-34B Mentor without
difficulty. It handles very much like a full size T-34B
Mentor–smooth and predictable.
Because of its 80” wingspan, the Top Flite Beechcraft
T-34B Mentor is eligible for IMAA* events. In order to
be IMAA legal some of the control components and
hardware may need to be replaced to conform to
Giant Scale rules even though this model does not
require heavy-duty hookups.
Several scale accessories specially designed for the
Top Flite T-34B Mentor are available separately
including a full cockpit interior, in-cowl exhaust
system, and a complete lighting kit. See the Scale
Accessories section on page 5 for more information.
*IMAA (International Miniature Aircraft Association)
is an organization that promotes non-competitive
flying of giant scale models.
International Miniature Aircraft Association
205 S. Hilldale Road
Salina, KS 67401
(913) 832 - 5569
www.fly-imaa.org/imaa/sanction.html
Please inspect all parts carefully before you
start to build! If any parts are missing, broken or
defective, or if you have any questions about
building or flying this model, please call us at
(217) 398-8970 or e-mail us at:
pr
oductsupport@top-flite.com.
We’ll be glad to help. If you are calling for
replacement parts, please look up the part
numbers and have them ready when you call.
PRECAUTIONS
1. You must build the plane according to the plans
and instructions. Do not alter or modify the model,
as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable
model. In a few cases the plans and instructions
may differ slightly from the photos. In those
instances you should assume the plans and
written instructions are correct.
2.You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first
class condition, the correct sized engine and correct
components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout
your building process.
4. You must properly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates properly on
the ground and in the air.
5. You must test the operation of the model before
every flight to insure that all equipment is operating
and you must make certain that the model has
remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
external nylon clevises often and replace them if they
show signs of wear.
6. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot,
you must fly the model only with the help of a
competent, experienced R/C pilot.
Remember: Take your time and follow directions
to end up with a well-built model that is straight
and true.
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you
with a top quality kit and great instructions, but
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished
model depends on how you build it; therefore, we
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
your completed model, and no representations
are expressed or implied as to the performance or
safety of your completed model.
- 3 -
used with the recommended throws. They are a
highly recommended
fun option
for those who
wish to install them. More information on the use
of the flaps may be found in the “flying” section.
For Flaps, you will need the following
additional items:
❏ (2) Standard servos.
❏ Servo “Y” Harness
❏ Robart #309 Super Hinge Points
(ROBQ2509)
RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR
You may build your T-34B Mentor either with fixed
or retractable landing gear. Fixed gear is easier to
install and all the hardware you need for fixed gear
is supplied with this kit. We also provide detailed
instructions on how to install retractable landing
gear available from Robart. We chose the Robart
630BNZ retracts which were specifically designed
for this model. This landing gear is an adaptation
of the Robart #640 mains and the #631 nose gear.
Other systems may work as well but it is up to you
to make modifications to fit them into the model.
For Retractable Landing Gear you will need
these items (not included):
❏ Robart 630BNZ Retracts (ROBQ1620)
❏ Standard Air Kit (ROBQ2302)
❏ Standard or mini servo
❏ Extra Pressure Tubing (ROBQ2369)
❏ Tubing Connectors (ROBQ2395)
❏ 2-56 Pull-Pull cable system (DUBQ1417)
❏ (2) Screw-Lock Connectors (GPMQ3870)
❏ (2) 2-56 Ball Link set (GPMQ3840)
❏ (2) 1/4” Wheel Collars (DUBQ1200)
❏ (1) Nylon Clevis and Pushrod (GPMQ3770)
❏ (8) #4 x 3/8” [9.5mm] flat head sheet
metal screws
FLAPS
Your T-34B Mentor is designed to incorporate
scale flaps; however, flaps are optional and not
necessary for an excellent flying experience.
Without flaps, the takeoff roll is longer and the
landing speed is faster.
The flaps are not difficult to build, but they do
require good craftsmanship to fit well. Flaps add
nicely to the model’s flight characteristics and
scale appearance while causing no bad effects.
Only slight trim correction is needed when they are
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
ENGINE SELECTION
Recommended engine size:
.60 to .91 cu. in. [9.8 to 14.9 cc] 2-stroke
.90 to 1.20 cu. in. [14.7 to 19.7 cc] 4-stroke
Your Top Flite Gold Edition T-34B Mentor will perform
well with any of the engines within the recommended
range. The 4-stroke engines and most .90 [14.7 cc]
2-stroke engines will turn a larger prop at lower RPM.
This is often desirable for scale realism. Many .60
[9.8 cc] 2-stroke engines produce about as much
horsepower as the popular .75 [12.3 cc] engines and
will fly the T-34B Mentor well. If you use a .60 [9.8 cc]
2-stroke, a ball bearing, Schnuerle-ported engine is
highly recommended. Some newer .70 [11.5 cc]
4-stroke engines also produce enough power as well.
Our prototype T-34B Mentor weighed 13 pounds
[5900 g] with all of the options, including flaps and
scale cockpit interior. It was flown with the
SuperTigre®G-75, that turned a Top Flite Power
Point®12 x 8 prop at 9,600 RPM. This engine
provided excellent performance and more than
enough power, even in gusty winds. Although
larger engines can be used to power this model,
the extra horsepower is not needed.
The included Great Planes®Adjustable Engine
Mount will hold a range of engines from .60 [9.8
cc] 2-stroke through 1.20 [19.7 cc] 4-stroke.
EXHAUST SYSTEM
A Top Flite header and muffler are available for
most of the popular 2-stroke engines that will fit
inside your cowl. They are designed for 2-stroke
engines mounted horizontally, as used on the
model and shown in the instructions. For part
numbers see the accessory list on page 6.
This muffler system is not recommended for
engines larger than .75 [12.3 cc] as it may cause
the engine to overheat.
- 4 -
Scale cockpit interior
Your model won’t be complete without the Top Flite
Beechcraft T-34B Mentor Scale Cockpit Interior
(TOPQ8413). It includes the floor, side panels,
instrument panels and seats! You can install the
Cockpit Interior at any time because the canopy is
removable but it’s easiest to build the cockpit into the
model while it’s under construction. The servos and
pushrods are located so the Cockpit Interior can be
installed without any modification.
The canopy has been designed so that it can be cut
apart and made into a sliding canopy if you wish.
NOTES FOR COMPETITION
MINDED MODELERS
We designed our model from documentation
obtained from Bob’s Aircraft Documentation and
from measurements taken from a T34B at a local
airport. The model scale is 1:5.
If you plan to enter your T-34B Mentor in scale
competition (it’s lots of fun, and the runways are
almost always paved!), this kit qualifies for Fun Scale
and the Sportsman and Expert classes in Spor t
Scale. Fun Scale and Sport Scale have the same
flight requirements where you must perform ten
maneuvers of which five are mandatory. If you have
never competed in a scale contest, you could start
out in Fun Scale. In Fun Scale, the only
documentation you need for static judging is any
proof that a full size aircraft of this type, in the
paint/markings scheme on your model, did exist. A
single photo, kit box cover, even a painting is
sufficient proof! If you’re interested, contact the AMA
for a rulebook which will tell you everything you need
to know. Look in the back of the AMA magazine,
Model Aviation, for a schedule of events.
The trim scheme of the T-34B Mentor on the kit box
is from a T-34B Mentor owned by Rudy Frasca.If you
are going to compete in scale competition, use the
photos in your documentation package as a guide
for your trim scheme.
DOCUMENTATION
Three view drawings and photo packs of full size
Beechcraft T-34B Mentors are available from:
Bob’s Aircraft Documentation
3114 Yukon Avenue
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
(714) 979-8058
NOTES FROM THE DESIGNER
The Top Flite Beechcraft Bonanza was introduced
several years ago. Since then many modelers have
requested that we do the T-34B Mentor as well. The
Mentor is a Bonanza, modified as a military trainer.
Scale Accuracy: The T-34B Mentor was designed
using three view drawings for the Beechcraft
Bonanza dated 1969 and from documentation
obtained from Bob’s Aircraft Documentation. In
addition, measurements of all aircraft components
were taken from an actual T-34B Mentor.
Wing Design: The Top Flite T-34B Mentor was
designed with an “I-Beam” type of wing spar rather
than the more traditional “D-Tube” type construction.
Actually, the design could be called an “I-Tube”. This
simplifies construction and is approximately 50%
stronger than D-Tube designs. The wing was
designed with an absolute minimum number of
seams that must be sanded on the finished wing.The
result is a very smooth wing.
Flaps: Flaps on the full-scale aircraft allow steeper
approaches and slower landing speeds. They do
exactly the same on this model. The improvement in
performance is well worth the effort.
Landing Gear: If you are installing fixed gear you will
note that the strut extends out from the center of the
grooved rail instead of the end. This allows landing
stresses to be distributed across three ply reinforced
ribs, rather than being concentrated at the end of the
rail. The mounting rails are designed to minimize
damage in the event of hard landings or contact with
obstacles. If you plan to install retractable landing gear,
we highly recommend the Robart units especially
designed for the Bonanza. They are very robust and
include shock-absorbing struts. Gear doors would look
great on this model but you will have to do some
modifications if you want to install then.
Fuselage Design: The fuselage design is fairly
conventional.The T-34B Mentor differs from the Bonanza
primarily in the tandem two place cockpit and the fin and
rudder. The large canopy is supplied in two parts, which
can be held in place with canopy glue and/or screws.The
canopy has been designed so that it can be cut apart and
made into a sliding canopy system.You will need to install
rails for the canopy to slide on as well. For help in this
area, there are several scale publications that have
covered sliding canopy installations.
The cabin area is reinforced with 1/8” lite ply. If you
are going to install the cockpit kit, you should
reinforce the area with some basswood rails along
the bottom of formers F2, F4 and F6 across the width
of the fuselage. The cockpit kit requires that a portion
of several formers be trimmed and the basswood
rails are needed for reinforcement in those areas.We
have included ample extra 1/4” x 3/8” basswood
material for this purpose.
Will It Really Fly On a .60 Size Engine? YES!! And
very scale like as well. Our test flying was done with a
new O. S. .61FX with a TF in-cowl muffler.It was turning
a TF 12-6 Power Point prop and we never felt a need for
more power. It flew in a very scale like manner.
Good luck and good flying. I hope you enjoy building
and flying your T-34B Mentor as much as we did
designing it.
- 5 -
- 6 -
DIE-CUT PATTERNS
IMPORTANT
Do not remove the wing ribs or other wing parts from the die-cut sheets until instructed to do so.
- 7 -
DIE-CUT PATTERNS
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
Accessories
These are additional items you will need to complete
your T-34B Mentor that are not included with your kit.
Order numbers are in parentheses (GPMQ4130).
Our exclusive brand is listed where possible: TOP is
the Top Flite brand, GPM is the Great Planes brand,
and HCA is the Hobbico®brand.
❏ 4- to 6-channel radio with 6 to 9 servos
❏ (2) 12” extension for ailerons
❏ (2) 6” extension for elevator and rudder servo
❏ (1) “Y” Harness for ailerons
❏ 3-1/2” Main Wheels (ROBQ1516)
❏ 2-3/4” Nose Wheel (ROBQ1513)
❏ 14 oz. Fuel Tank (GPMQ4106)
❏ 2-3/4” Aluminum Spinner (GPMQ4555)
❏ 36” Medium Silicone Fuel Tubing (GPMQ4131)
❏ 1/4” R/C Foam Rubber Padding (HCAQ1000)
❏ 1/5 Scale Pilot Figures. If using Williams Bro.
use (WBRQ2625) - 1/4 scale fits best.
❏ Fuel Filler Valve (GPMQ4160)
❏ Exhaust Deflector (HCAP2175)
❏ 3-4 rolls Top Flite Super MonoKote covering,
see Finishing on page 58
❏ Paint, see Finishing on page 59
❏ Propellers, see the engine instructions
For an In Cowl Muffler setup, the following items
will be required:
O.S.®.61FX & FX Top Flite Header (TOPQ7920)
SuperTigre .75G Top Flite Header (TOPQ7926)
.61-.75 In Cowl Muffler (TOPQ7917)
Note: This muffler is NOT recommended
for .90 or larger size engines.
Building supplies
Here’s a checklist of supplies you should have on
hand while you’re building. We recommend Great
Planes Pro™CA and Epoxy.
Glue/Filler
❏ 4 oz. Thin CA (GPMR6003)
❏ 4 oz. Medium CA+ (GPMR6009)
❏ 2 oz. Thick CA- (GPMR6015)
❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6035)
❏ CA Debonder (GMPR6039)
❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏ 30-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ 6-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ Pro Wood Glue (GPMR6161)
❏ J & Z Products Z RC/56 canopy glue (JOZR5007)
❏ Microballoons (TOPR1090)
❏ Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165)
❏ Lightweight Hobby Filler (HCAR3401)
❏ Auto Body Filler (Bondo®or similar)
❏ 3M #75 Spray Adhesive (MMMR1900)
❏ Denatured or Isopropyl Alcohol
Tools
❏ #11 Blades (HCAR0311, 100 qty.)
❏ Single Edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312, 100 qty.)
❏ Razor Plane (MASR1510)
❏ X-Acto®Building Square (XACR7726)
❏ X-Acto Building Triangle (XACR7725)
❏ T-Pins (HCAR5100 - Small, HCAR5150 -
Medium, HCAR5200 - Large)
❏ 1/4-20 Tap and Drill Set (GPMR8105)
❏ 8-32 Tap and Drill Set (GPMR8103)
❏ Hobbico Curved Tip Canopy Scissors (HCAR0667)
❏ Long Handle 9/64” Ball Driver (GPMR8004)
❏ Long Handle 3/32” Ball Driver (GPMR8002)
❏ Silver Solder (GPMR8070 w/flux)
❏ Masking Tape (TOPR8018)
❏ Great Planes Plan Protector (GPMR6167) or
waxed paper
❏ Great Planes Dead Center™Tool (GPMR8130)
❏ Easy-Touch™Bar Sanders*
❏ Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Trim Seal Tool (TOPR2200)
❏ Hot Sock
™
(TOPR2175)
❏ Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
❏Drill Bits:
1/16”, 17/64”, 3/32”, 9/32”, 1/8”, 5/16”, 5/32”,
9/64” or #29, 3/16”, 11/64” or #10, 1/4”, 13/64”
or #7
EASY-TOUCH™BAR SANDER
A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a
necessity for building a well finished model. Great
Planes makes a complete range of patented EasyTouch Bar Sanders and replaceable Easy-Touch
adhesive-backed sandpaper. While building the
T-34B Mentor we used two 5-1/2” Bar Sanders and
two 11” Bar Sanders equipped with 80-grit and 150grit adhesive-backed sandpaper.
Here’s the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders
and adhesive backed sandpaper:
5-1/2” Bar Sander (GPMR6169)
11” Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
22” Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
12’ roll of Adhesive-backed sandpaper
80-grit (GPMR6180)
150-grit (GPMR6183)
220-grit (GPMR6185)
Assortment pack of 5-1/2” strips (GPMR6189)
We also use 3M 320-grit or 400-grit wet-or-dry
sandpaper for finish sanding.
- 8 -
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
There are two types of screws used in this kit:
Sheet metal screws are designated by a number
and a length.
For example #6 x 3/4" long [19.1mm]
Machine screws are designated by a number,
threads per inch, and a length.
For example 4-40 x 3/4" long [19.1mm]
•
When you see the term
test fit
in the instructions,
it means that you should first position the part on
the assembly without using any glue, then
slightly modify or
custom fit
the part as necessary
for the best fit.
•
Whenever the term
glue
is written you should rely
upon your experience to decide what type of glue
to use. When a specific type of adhesive works
best for that step, the instructions will tell you what
glue is recommended.
•
Whenever just
epoxy
is specified you may use
either
30-minute epoxy or6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified, it is highly
recommended that you use only 30-minute (or
45-minute) epoxy because you will need the
working time and/or the additional strength.
•
Occasionally we refer to the
top
or
bottom
of the
model or upor
down
. To avoid confusion, the
top
or
bottom
of the model is as it would be when the
airplane is right side up and will be referred to as
the top even if the model is upside-down during
that step,
i.e.
the top main spar is always the top
main spar even if the wing is upside-down when
you are working on it. Similarly,
move the former
up
means move the former toward the top of the
fuselage even if the fuselage is upside-down when
you are working on it.
•
Incidence and Thrust Angles: The incidence
angles and down thrust angles shown on the
fuselage side view are in reference to the stepped
main fuselage stringer (the 1/4” x 3/8” x 36”
stepped stringer), which is set at 0°. The right
thrust shown on the bottom view is in reference to
the centerline of the fuselage. Remember, this is
the bottom view so right thrust is viewed as an
offset to the left from the bottom.
•
When you get to each step, read that step
completely through to the end before you begin.
Frequently there is important information or a note
at the end of the step that you need to know before
you start.
•
Photos and sketches are placed before the
step they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in
following steps to get another view of the same parts.
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS
deg = Degrees Ply = Plywood
Elev = Elevator Stab = Stabilizer
Fuse = Fuselage LG = Landing Gear
Lt = Left Rt = Right
" = Inches LE = Leading Edge (front)
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
TYPES OF WOOD
BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD
GET READY TO BUILD
1. Unroll the plan sheets. Roll them inside out so
they lie flat.
2. Remove all the parts from the box. Use a ballpoint
pen (not a felt tip pen) to lightly write the name or
size on each piece so you can identify it later. Use
the
die-cut patterns
on pages 6 and 7 to identify and
mark the die-cut parts before you remove them from
their die sheets. Many of the parts already have
numbers stamped on them, but in some cases the
number is located alongside the parts or only on the
die drawings in the manual. Do not remove the die-cut
parts until instructed to do so. If a part is difficult to
remove, don’t force it out but cut around it with a hobby
knife and a #11 blade. After you remove the parts from
their die sheets, lightly sand the edges to remove
slivers or die-cutting irregularities. Save some of the
larger leftover pieces of wood.
Note: If you are going to install retracts, don’t punch out
the round
lightening hole
in the die-cut 3/32” [2.4mm]
balsa wing ribs W4, W5 and W6. Instead, apply thin CA
around the lightening hole to glue it in place.
3. Separate the parts into groups such as stab, fin,
wing, and fuse. Store smaller parts in zipper-top
food storage bags.
- 9 -
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES
MAKE THE SKINS FOR THE
TAIL SURFACES
❏ 1. See the Hot Tip that follows and use six 1/16” x
3” x 30” [1.6 x 76 x 762mm] balsa sheets to make two
1/16” x 9” x 30” [1.6 x 229 x 762mm] stab skin
planks. Make a third plank for the fin/rudder skin
from three more 1/16” x 3” x 30” [1.6 x 76 x 762mm]
balsa sheets.
❏ 2. After the glue is dry, peel off the masking tape
and decide which side of the planks will be the
outside. Use a bar sander or a large, flat sanding
block and 150-grit sandpaper to sand the outside of
the planks so they are flat, even and smooth. The
idea is to do the sanding
before
you glue the skins
to the structure.
❏ 3. Cut the three 9” x 30” [229 x 762mm] sheets in
half, making six 9” x 15” [229 x 381mm] planks.
F. Place weights along the glue joint and let the
glue dry.
G. Use the same procedure to make the wing
skins when you build the wing.
E. Press the joining edges of the sheets down
with your fingers so they are flat and even.
D. Use a credit card or a piece of thin plywood to
simultaneously press the sheets flat as you
squeegee the excess glue from the seam.Wipe the
glue off your squeegee with a paper towel or a stick
of wood. Immediately proceed to the next step.
C. Place waxed paper on your workbench. Flip
the sheets over and apply a bead of aliphatic
resin (
wood workers glue
such as Great Planes
Pro™) between the seams. Immediately proceed
to the next step.
B. Tightly tape the sheets together with masking
tape placed about every 4” along the seams.The
sheets will not lay flat because they are tightly
taped together
A. Use a straightedge and a sharp #11 blade to
true the joining edges of the sheets. When you
trim them, do not cut all the way through the first
time but make several passes so you slice the
wood instead of splitting it.
HOW TO MAKE THE SKINS
- 10 -
❏ 4. Cut the stab, elevator, vertical fin and rudder
skin templates from the plan. Use a straightedge
and ballpoint pen to mark their outline onto the 9” x
15” [229 x 381mm] planks (do not use a felt-tip pen).
The templates are slightly oversize to allow slight
variances in construction. Note the grain direction.
Follow this sequence:
(2) planks – stab and rudder.
(2) planks – stab and elevator.
(2) planks – vertical fin and elevator.
BUILD THE STABILIZER
AND ELEVATORS
Build the right and left stab halves simultaneously.
❏ 1. Position the plan so the stab is over your flat
building board (or cut the stab from the plan), tape it
down and cover it with waxed paper or Plan Protector.
❏ 2. Glue both die-cut 1/8” [3.2mm] balsa LE braces
together and both die-cut 3/32” [2.4mm] balsa S1S
ribs together.
❏ 3.Test fit the die-cut 3/32” [2.4mm] balsa stab ribs
S2S through S7S in the notches of both die-cut 1/8”
[3.2mm] balsa stab TE spars (S9). Make a left and
right assembly. Place both assemblies over the plan
and add the LE brace. See the photo at step 4.
❏ 4. Use a small square to align the stab TE spar at
rib S2S over the plan. Pin rib S2S over its location on
the plan with a T-pin about 1/4” in front of the TE spar.
Note: The above photo shows S1S in place, but it is
not installed until step 11.
❏ 5. Use the same method to align the TE spar and
pin the rest of the ribs on both sides of the stab to
your building board over the plan.
❏ 6. Pin the fronts of the ribs to your building board
over the plan.
❏ 7. Add both die-cut 1/8” [3.2mm] balsa elevator
LE spars (S8) to the assembly.
❏ 8. Make sure all the jig tabs of all the ribs are
contacting your building board. Glue the stab TE
spar and elevator LE spar to the ribs with medium
CA. Don’t use large amounts of CA or build up fillets
of glue. Later we will instruct you to reinforce glue
joints that don’t look strong.
Beech Fact: In 1946 Walter H. Beech announced
his all new, revolutionary, single engine entry in the
postwar market. He named it the Bonanza,
descriptive of an extra value offered in the way of
economy, performance and pleasure to the owner.
-11-
Use this photo for the next three steps.
❏ 9. Glue the 1/4” x 5/8” x 4-3/8” [6.4 x 15.9 x
111mm] balsa TE center brace to the front of the
stab TE spars of both stab halves.
❏ 10. Glue the die-cut 1/16” [1.6mm] plywood TE
doubler to the front of the TE brace (it’s the one with
straight edges).
❏ 11. Add the die-cut 3/32” [2.4mm] balsa center rib
S1S and glue it into position.
❏ 12. Sand the fronts of the ribs to match the aft
sweep of the leading edge. Cut two shaped 5/16” x
15” [7.9 x 381mm] balsa stab/fin leading edges to
a length of 13-3/4” [349mm] and bevel the joining
ends to match the plan. Glue them to the ribs and the
LE brace so the top edge is even with the top of the
ribs. The bottom will extend below the ribs but will be
sanded flush later.
❏ 13. Cut a 1/16” [1.6mm] notch in center rib S1S
behind the LE brace. Test fit the die-cut 1/16”
[1.6mm] plywood LE doubler in the notch. Deepen
the notch as necessary so the top of the doubler is
even with the top of rib S1S. Glue the doubler to the
LE brace and glue rib S1S to the doubler.
❏ 14. Cut the end off both die-cut 3/32” [2.4mm]
balsa S1AS ribs at the embossed line and set those
little pieces aside. They will be used later to glue the
aft end of S1AS into position. Fit the S1AS’s to the
elevator LE spars, pin them to the plan, and then
glue them to the elevator LE spars.
❏ 15. Sand the top of the leading edges, stab and
elevator spars, and the TE brace so they match the
contour of the ribs. Do not change the shape of the
airfoil by sanding too much.
❏ 16. THIS STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT! Arrange
the T-pins so every other rib is held down with one
pin near the front and one pin near the rear and
make sure all the pins go into the jig tabs at the
same angle. This will allow you to remove the stab
from your building board by lifting it up and to one
side after the top sheeting is glued in place (because
the T-pins are concealed).
❏ 17. Use your favorite method to glue the stab skin to
the stab.We recommend using aliphatic resin to glue the
skin to the ribs and TE spar, and medium CA for only the
leading edge. Apply glue to the stab structure. Working
quickly, position the stab skin and hold the leading edge
down until the CA hardens. When the CA is hardened,
wet the front of the skin with a 50/50 mix of alcohol and
water and press it to the rest of the frame, holding it
down with weights until the glue dries.
Note: If you choose to use CA for the entire job, be
aware that residual accelerator you may have used
earlier can make the CA you use for this step cure
quickly. You’ll have to work rapidly.
❏ 18. Glue the elevator skin to the elevator. You can
use CA for this step since the skin is small and easy
to position. Make sure the trailing edge contacts the
stoppers on the top of the jig tabs on ribs S7S and
S2S. Note: You may have to trim the LE of the skin
to fit it into position.
-12-
❏ 19. After the glue has thoroughly dried, remove all
the T-pins you can reach. Carefully lift the stab (with
the elevators) from your building board. Trim the jig
tabs from the ribs and take out the rest of the T-pins.
❏ 20. Use a razor plane or a #11 blade to trim the
bottom of the LE so it is the same size as the front
of the ribs and matches the airfoil shape.
❏ 21. Sand the bottoms of the ribs, leading edges,
stab spars, elevator spars and the TE brace so they
smoothly blend.
❏ 22. Glue the little tips you cut off the end of the
S1AS ribs to the sheeting and S1AS.
❏ 23. Use a bar sander and 150-grit sandpaper to
bevel the trailing edge of the top elevator skin so it will
accommodate the bottom skin. While you sand, apply
pressure only to the sheeting and use the ribs to set
your sander at the correct angle. Do not bevel the
trailing edge to a
sharp edge
but leave about 1/32”
[0.8mm]
squared off
. Hint: Support the TE with the
edge of your workbench or a platform while you sand.
❏ 24. Glue four die-cut 1/8” [3.2mm] balsa elevator
torque rod blocks between both sets of ribs S1AS
and S2S.
❏ 25. Cut twelve 1-7/8” [47.6mm] long hinge blocks
from the 1/4” x 3/8” x 36” [6.4 x 9.5 x 914mm] balsa
stick. Glue them evenly spaced vertically to the stab
TE spar and the elevator LE spar where shown on
the plan. Glue the die-cut 1/8” [3.2mm] balsa stab
gusset to the hinge block and rib S7S as shown on
the plan. Position the gusset so it is even with the
bottom of the hinge block so you do not break it
when you cut the hinge slot.
❏ 26. Trim the elevator torque rod blocks and any
protruding hinge blocks so they are even with the
bottoms of the ribs.
❏ 27. Reinforce any glue joints that do not look strong.
Use this photo for the next two steps.
❏ 28. Glue the elevator skins to the bottom of the
elevators so the trailing edges align.
Optional: Use the die-cut 1/8” [3.2mm] balsa stab
cradles S2T and S7T to hold the stab flat on your
workbench while you glue the bottom skins on. Use
the stab cradles the same as the wing cradles shown
in steps 1-5 on page 28.
❏ 29. Glue the stab skins to the bottom of the stab.
If you have not used any accelerator on the stab you
may glue the skins on with thick or medium CA.
Otherwise, use aliphatic resin. Work over a flat work
surface and be careful not to add any twist into the
stab as you press the skins to the stab frame.
❏ 30. After the glue dries, use a bar sander with 150-
grit sandpaper to sand the sheeting even with the
ends of the stab and elevators.
❏ 31. Cut the ribs and separate the elevators from
the stab. Sand the excess sheeting and rib stubs
from the TE of the stab and the LE of the elevator.
Sand the elevator sheeting even with rib S1AS.
-13-
❏ 32. Glue a die-cut 1/8” [3.2mm] balsa stab TE
(S10) to the TE of both stab halves. Glue a die-cut
1/8” [3.2mm] balsa elevator LE (also S10) to the LE
of both elevators.
❏ 33. Sand the stab TE’s and the elevator LE’s so
they are even with the ends of the stab and
elevators. Sand the stab TE and elevator LE’s so
they blend with the tips and skins.
❏ 34. Use two T-pins, placed in the center of the
leading edge of one of the elevators near the ends,
to align a straightedge and draw a centerline with a
ballpoint pen.
❏ 35. Mark the other elevator and the TE of the stab
the same way.
❏ 36. Cut the hinge slots on the centerlines of the
elevators and the stab where shown on the plan.
❏ 37. Cut six hinges from the 2” x 9” [51 x 229mm]
CA hinge strip as shown in the sketch. Snip the
corners off the hinges so they go into the slots
easier. Temporarily join both elevators to the stab
with the hinges. If necessary, adjust the hinge slots
so the elevators and stab align.
❏ 38. Locate the 3/4” x 1-3/8” x 6-1/2” [19 x 35 x
165mm] shaped balsa stab tip blocks.
❏❏39. Securely tape the elevator to the stab with
masking tape on both sides. Sand the ends of the
stab and elevators so they are even.
❏❏40. Draw a centerline all the way around a 3/4”
[19mm] shaped balsa stab tip block.
We HIGHLY recommend that you use the Great
Plans Slot Machine™for cutting your hinge slots.
This motorized hinge slotting tool makes clean
slots of the exact size needed for CA hinges.
Once you use this tool, you will never cut your
hinge slots any other way.
HOW TO MAKE THE HINGE SLOTS
IMPORTANT NOTES ABOUT CA HINGES
This kit is supplied with a CA hinge material
consisting of a 3-layer lamination of Mylar and
polyester. It is specially made for hinging model
airplane control surfaces. When properly installed,
this type of CA hinge provides the best
combination of strength, durability and easy
installation. We trust all of our Gold Edition
warbirds to these hinges, but it is essential to
install them correctly. Carefully follow the hinging
instructions in this manual for the best result.
The most common mistake made by modelers
when installing CA hinges is making the hinge
slots too tight, restricting the flow of CA to the
back of the hinges; or not using enough glue to
fully secure the hinge over its entire surface area.
This results in hinges that are only
tack glued
into
the hinge slots. The techniques for cutting the
hinge slots and gluing in the CA hinges (near the
end of the manual) have been developed to
ensure thorough and secure attachment.
-14-
❏❏41. Place the stab tip block over its location on
the plan. Mark where the elevator tip meets the stab
tip on both sides of the block.
❏❏42. Cut the stab tip from the elevator tip. True
the edges you just cut with a bar sander.
❏❏43. Glue the stab tip to the stab. The sharp
point
of the stab tip should align with the TE of the
stab. Glue the elevator tip to the elevator so it is 1/8”
[3.2mm] aft of the LE and aligns with the stab tip (as
shown in the sketch).
❏❏44. Use a razor plane or a hobby carving knife,
followed by sanding to carefully shape the elevator
and stab tip. Inspect your progress frequently. Use
the centerlines as a guide and the plan as a
reference so you know what the curve of the tip
should look like.
Hint: Stick a T-pin through the elevator tip into the
stab.This will hold the elevator tip while you shape it.
Note: When you shape the left stab tip, in addition to
the plan, use the finished tip on the right stab as a
guide to shape the left stab tip. This way you can
make sure both of the stab tips are identical.
❏❏45. Shape the stab LE as shown on the plan.
❏❏46. Separate the elevator from the stab.
❏❏47. Shape the leading edge of the elevator to a
“V” as shown on the plan. Use the centerline on the
leading edge as a guide. Make sure that the angle of
the “V” will allow the throws indicated in the back of
the manual.
❏ 48. Go back to step 39 and do the other stab tip.
❏ 49. Using the plan, accurately mark the location of
the 1/8” [3.2mm] elevator joiner wire and horn
(from now on referred to as just the
elevator joiner
)
on the elevators.
❏ 50. Drill a 9/64” [3.6mm] hole 1-1/4” deep and cut
a groove in the center of both LE’s for the joiner.Test
fit the elevator joiner in the elevators.
Hint: Use a 1/8” [3.2mm] brass tube sharpened at
one end to cut the grooves.
-15-
❏ 51. Cut a small groove in the TE of the stab so the
horn on the elevator joiner will not bind against the
stab when the elevator deflects downward. Test fit
the elevators to the stab, with the elevator joiner in
place, and make adjustments if necessary.
BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER
❏ 1. Place the fin plan over your building board and
cover it with Plan Protector or waxed paper.
❏ 2. Test fit the die-cut 3/32” [2.4mm] balsa fin ribs
R2 through R6 in the notches of the die-cut 1/8”
[3.2mm] balsa fin TE spar (R7) and rudder LE spar
(R8). Place the assembly over the plan.
❏ 3. Use a small square to position the fin TE spar
over the plan near rib R2. Align rib R2 over the plan
and pin it to your building board. Use one T-pin near
the front of the jig tab and one T-pin near the rear of
the jig tab.
❏ 4. Use the same method to align the fin TE spar
over the plan at each rib. Pin the rib to your building
board. Glue the ribs to the spars with medium CA.
Use small drops of CA and do not build up fillets.
Later, we will remind you to reinforce the glue joints.
Refer to this photo for the next three steps
❏ 5. Pin rib R1 in place and glue it to the spar. Cut
the end off rib R1A at the embossed line and set the
cut-off piece aside. Pin the remaining part of R1A in
place and glue it to the rudder LE spar.
❏ 6. Sand the fronts of the ribs to match the aft
sweep of the leading edge. Cut a shaped 5/16” x 15”
[8 x 381mm] balsa stab/fin leading edge to a length
of 11” [280mm]. Glue it to the front of the ribs so the
top edge of the LE is even with the top of the ribs.
The bottom of the LE will extend below the bottom of
the ribs but will be sanded flush later.
❏ 7. Sand the upward facing edges of the leading
edge and the sub spars so they match the contour of
the ribs. Do not change the shape of the airfoil by
sanding too much.
❏ 8.Arrange the T-pins so they all go into the jig tabs
at the same angle. This will allow you to remove the
fin and rudder from your building board by lifting it up
and to one side after the top sheeting is glued in
place (because the T-pins are concealed).
❏ 9. Glue the fin and rudder skin to the structure. The
bottom of the fin skin should extend below rib R1 by
approximately 1/4” [6.4mm] so you can trim it later.
Make sure the trailing edge of the rudder meets the
stoppers on the top of the jig tabs on ribs R2 and R6.
Note: The rudder skin was cut wider than needed, to
allow enough material to trim it to size now.
T-34 Fact: The T-34 began as a private venture by
Walter Beech shortly after the end of WWII. The
Beechcraft Model 35 Bonanza had been
developed and Mr Beech felt there was a market
for a military trainer based on the Bonanza. After
the war, there were over 50,000 war-surplus
trainers still in the inventory and there was a lack
of funding for a new trainer, so Beech built several
proof of concept aircraft as a private venture.They
used the same basic wing, landing gear and
some fuselage parts from the Bonanza and one
even had the classic V-tail. These aircraft were
developed under the company designation Model
45. The first prototypes use a 205 hp Continental
engine while later prototypes used a more
powerful 225 hp engine.
-16-
❏ 10. After the glue has thoroughly dried, remove all
the T-pins you can reach. Carefully lift the fin (with
the rudder) from your building board.Trim the jig tabs
from the ribs and take out the rest of the T-pins.
❏ 11. Use a razor plane or a #11 blade to trim the
right side of the LE so it is the same size as the front
of the ribs and matches the airfoil shape.
❏ 12. Sand the ribs, leading edges, fin spar, rudder spar
and trailing edges so that they blend.
❏ 13. Glue the end of R1A, that was cut off earlier,
to the sheeting and to R1A.
❏ 14. Bevel the trailing edge of the left rudder skin
the same way you did the stab.
❏ 15. Glue the four die-cut 1/8” [3.2mm] balsa
rudder torque rod blocks between ribs R1A and
R2 in the rudder.
❏ 16. Cut five 1-7/8” [47.6mm] long hinge blocks
from the 1/4” x 3/8” x 36” [6.4 x 9.5 x 914mm] balsa
stick. Test fit, then glue the hinge blocks, evenly
spaced vertically, to the fin TE spar and the rudder
LE spar where shown on the plan.
❏ 17.Glue the die-cut 1/8” [3.2mm] balsa fin gusset
to the hinge block and rib R6. The gusset should be
raised so it is even with the left side of the fin TE and
rib R6 (so it does not interfere with the hinge slot).
❏ 18. Trim the rudder torque rod blocks and any
hinge blocks so they are even with the ribs.
❏ 19. Reinforce all glue joints that don’t look strong.
❏ 20. Glue the other rudder and fin skin to the right
side of the rudder and fin. Optional: Use the die-cut
1/8” [3.2mm] balsa fin/stab cradles R1C and R6C to
hold the fin and rudder flat on your workbench while
you glue the right skins on.
❏ 21. Sand the tip of the fin and rudder sheeting
flush with rib R6.
❏ 22. Cut the ribs and separate the rudder from the
fin. Sand the excess sheeting and rib stubs from the
TE of the fin and the LE of the rudder. Sand the
bottom of the rudder even with rib R1A.
❏ 23. Glue a die-cut 1/8” [3.2mm] balsa fin trailing
edge (R9) to the fin TE spar and a die-cut 1/8”
[3.2mm] balsa rudder leading edge (R9) to the
rudder LE spar. Sand the fin TE and rudder LE so
they blend with the tips and skins.
❏ 24. Use the
straightedge and pin
technique to
draw a centerline on the LE of the rudder and the TE
of the fin.
❏ 25.Cut the hinge slots on the centerline of the fin
and rudder where shown on the plan.
❏ 26. Cut three more hinges from the hinge strip and
temporarily join the rudder to the fin. If necessary,
adjust the hinge slots so the fin and rudder align.
❏ 27. Securely tape the rudder to the fin with
masking tape on both sides. Sand the ends of the fin
and rudder so they are even.
❏ 28. Draw a centerline on the top and bottom of the
3/4” x 1-7/16” x 7-3/8” [19 x 36.5 x 187mm] balsa fin
tip block. Cut the block into two pieces as shown on
the plan. Sand the edges you just cut so they are
smooth and match the angle on the plan.
Use this photo for the next two steps.
❏ 29. Use thick or medium CA to glue the rudder and
fin tip blocks to the rudder and fin in the same manner
that you glued the tip blocks to the elevator and stab.
Use the centerline on the tip blocks as a guide to make
sure it is centered on the rudder and fin.
❏ 30. Use a razor plane or a hobby carving knife
followed by sanding to carefully shape the fin and
rudder tip blocks. Inspect your progress frequently
and use the centerlines as a guide.
Hint: Stick a T-pin through the top of the rudder tip
into the fin. This will hold the rudder tip while you
shape it.
❏ 31. Shape the LE of the fin as you did with the stab.
❏ 32. Separate the rudder from the fin.
❏ 33. Shape the leading edge of the rudder to a “V”
as you did with the elevators. Use the centerline on
the leading edge as a guide. Make sure the angle of
the “V” will allow the throws indicated in the back of
this manual.
-17-
What a nice piece of workmanship! Put the stab and
fin in a safe place, clean off your workbench, vacuum
the floor, then read the following T34 Fact.
BUILD THE WING
MAKE THE WING SKINS
❏ 1. Glue three 3/32” x 3” x 36” [2.4 x 76 x 914mm]
balsa sheets together to make an aft wing skin.Trim
a
wedge
from the aft wing skin. Glue it back onto the
skin as shown in the sketch.
❏ 2. Glue two 3/32” x 3” x 30” [2.4 x 76 x 762mm]
(not 36” [914mm]) balsa sheets together to make the
forward outer wing skin.
Note: You will need a total of
four
aft wing skins and
five
forward outer wing skins (one of the forward wing
skins will be cut into four pieces to make the forward
inner skins).You can make all the wing skins now in an
assembly line fashion or make them as needed.
❏ 3. After the glue dries, remove the masking tape
and mark the best side of each skin as the top. Sand
the bottoms of both wing skins so they are flat (or
almost flat). Sand the tops of the skins so they are
flat and smooth.
PREPARATIONS
❏ 1. Unroll the wing plan. Roll it inside out so it will
lie flat. Cut the right wing panel with the center
section from the wing plan. Position it on your flat
building board and cover the plan with Plan Protector
or waxed paper.
Perform steps R2 through R6 if you are installing
retractable landing gear.
R3. Prepare a set of left wing ribs the same way
but use the photo above to make sure you glue
the doublers to the correct side of the ribs.
R4. Remove the shaded area of balsa shown in the
previous two photos after the epoxy is fully cured.
R2. Prepare a set of right wing ribs by using
30-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/16” [1.6mm]
plywood retract landing gear rib doublers
W4R, W5R and W6R to the die-cut 3/32” [2.4mm]
balsa ribs W4, W5 and W6
exactly
as shown in
the photo. Make sure the doublers are on the side
of the ribs as shown in the photo and on the right
wing plan.
Have you purchased your retracts yet? If you
have (or as soon as you do), take the neoprene
air lines out of the package and hang them from
a hook somewhere in your shop, letting them
dangle under their own weight. This will get all the
kinks out and make them easier to work with
when it’s time to install them.
During construction of the wing and fuselage,
some steps refer to fixed gear installation and
other steps refer to retractable gear installation.
Steps for fixed gear start with “F” and steps for
retractable gear start with “R”.
T34 Fact: The Model 45 made its first test flight
on December 2, 1948. After the U.S. Air Force
was shown the prototypes, they ordered three test
aircraft under the designation YT-34. The Model
45 made its’ public debut at the 1949 Cleveland
Air Races and was flown by Bevo Howard and
Betty Skelton. Bevo Howard’s Hawthorn Aviation
later became the Air Force’s first contract flight
school to use the T-34.
-18-
Perform steps F7 through F10 only if you are
installing fixed landing gear.
❏ F7. Prepare a set of right wing ribs by using
30-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8” [3.2mm]
plywood fixed landing gear rib doublers W4G,
W5G and W6G to the die-cut 3/32” [2.4mm] balsa
ribs W4, W5 and W6
exactly
as shown in the photo.
Make sure the doublers are on the side of the ribs as
shown in the photo.
❏ F8. Prepare a set of left wing ribs the same way
but use the photo above to make sure you glue the
doublers to the correct side of the ribs.
❏ F9. Remove the shaded area of balsa shown in
the previous two photos after the epoxy is fully cured.
Note: Details for fixed landing gear are shown on the
left wing plan.
❏ F10. Cut slots at the locations suggested in the
sketch in both sets of ribs W2, W3 and W4 for the servo
leads. Make the slots large enough so the connectors
on the ends of your servo leads will pass through.
(See R5)
❏ 11. Use a straightedge and a ballpoint pen to mark
a vertical line 1/16” [1.6mm] from the front and back
of the spar notches in both W2 ribs. Use a sharp
hobby knife to lightly cut halfway through the balsa
along the lines. You will remove this section of balsa
to accommodate the spar joiners when it is time to
join the wing.
BUILD THE OUTER WING PANELS
For clarity, some of the photos show the wing off the
building board without the plan, but of course you
should build your wing over the plan as we do.
Build the right wing panel first so your progress
matches the photos.
❏❏1. Do not use any glue until step 8. Pin a 1/4”
x 3/8” x 36” [6.4 x 9.5 x 914mm] basswood bottom
spar over its location on the plan so the root end
extends past the dashed line by about 1/8” [3.2mm].
Stick the pins through the spar at an angle so they
will not interfere with the spar web when you position
it in the next step.
T-34 Fact: The T-34 ended up being the last
project done by Walter Beech, who died of a heart
attack late in 1950. Of the six prototype/service
test aircraft, only one remains and is on static
display at March AFB.
R6. Use a ballpoint pen to
extend
the die-cut
wheel well cutout
in both W3 ribs. Cut partway
through the rib along the line so the cutout will be
easier to remove later.
Note: Details for retractable landing gear are
shown on the right wing plan.
R5. Drill 5/32” [4mm] holes and cut slots at the
locations suggested in the sketch in both sets of ribs
W2, W3 and W4 for the retract air lines and servo
leads. Make the slots large enough so the
connectors on the ends of your servo leads will pass
through. Hint: An appropriate size brass tube
sharpened at one end cuts very clean holes.
-19-
❏❏2. Test fit ribs W2 through W14 to the die-cut
1/8” [3.2mm] balsa spar web (W15). If necessary,
deepen the notches (in the ribs or in the spar web)
so the ribs fit all the way into the spar web.
Note: Do not be concerned if the ribs do not exactly
align spanwise with the plan. Paper plans can
expand and contract as much as 1/8” [3.2mm] due to
moisture.
❏❏3. Fit the ribs and spar web to the bottom spar
so the ribs align as close as possible with the plan.
❏❏4. Test fit the die-cut 1/8” [3.2mm] balsa aft
inner spar (W18) into the notches of ribs W2
through W9. If the spar fits too tightly use a single
edge razor blade or a flat Perma-Grit sander to bevel
the notches in the ribs and the spar at the same
angle that they cross. Reinstall the aft inner spar.
❏❏5.Test fit the die-cut 1/8” [3.2mm] balsa aft outer
spar (W16) and the die-cut 1/8” [3.2mm] balsa aileron
spar (W17) into the notches of ribs W9 through W14. If
necessary, bevel the notches in the spars and ribs the
same way you did in the previous step.
❏❏6. Temporarily remove rib W2 from the assembly.
❏❏7. One at a time, accurately align the jig tabs of
all the ribs with the plan and pin them to your building
board. In addition to T-pins, place weights on top of
the ribs and the aft spars to insure that all the jig
tabs are contacting your building board. Inspect
all joints and make sure everything aligns with the
plan. The spar web must fully contact the bottom
spar. A die-cut 1/8” [3.2mm] plywood 90 degree
gauge is supplied in the kit to help you keep the ribs
vertical as you glue them.
❏❏8. Use medium or thin CA to glue all the joints.
Use the CA sparingly at this stage of construction
and do not build up fillets. This will allow you to
realign parts if necessary and keep you from gluing
the jig tabs to the ribs. We will remind you to reinforce
all glue joints later.
❏❏9. Place rib W2 back onto the assembly. Align
W2 with the dashed line depicting where it contacts
the plan. Use the die-cut 1/8” [32.mm] plywood
dihedral gauge to set W2 at the correct angle. Glue
it to the bottom spar and the spar web. Glue W2 to
the aft inner spar using the dihedral gauge to set it at
the correct angle.
❏❏10. Test fit a 1/4” x 3/8” x 36” [6.4 x 9.5 x
914mm] basswood upper spar in the notches of the
ribs so the end of the spar aligns with rib W2. Glue
the spar to the ribs and the spar web with thick or
medium CA. Remember, don’t use too much glue.
-20-
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