Top Flite Sierra 40 User Manual
INSTRUCTION BOOK
WARRANTY....
and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use
or modification. In no case shall Top Flite Models' liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further,
Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability
shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled
product.
By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, he is advised
to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both materials
TOP FLITE MODELS, P.O. BOX 721, URBANA, IL 61801
TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE - CALL (217) 398-6300
2
INTRODUCTION
Precautions....................................................3
DIE PATTERNS
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE EARLY
IN THE BUILDING SEQUENCE....................5
Engine and Mount Selection
Other Items Required
Supplies and Tools Needed ...........................5
Common Abbreviations ..................................6
Types of Wood ...............................................6
Get Ready to
USING GLUE
NOTES ON SANDING...................................7
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES
Hinge Slots.....................................................8
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
BUILD THE WING
Guide Tool......................................................16
Left Wing Panel Assembly
No Aileron Version
Aileron Version............................................... 19
............................................3
.............................................4
..........................5
.....................................5
Build
.........................................6
.................................................6
......................7
...............................9
.........................................16
.............................16
.........................................18
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Wing Tips....................................................... 19
Right Wing Panel Assembly........................... 19
Join the Wing .................................................19
Bolt on Wing ...................................................21
Rubber Band on Wing ....................................22
Install the Ailerons ..........................................22
Center Section Sheeting ................................23
FINAL ASSEMBLY........................................ 24
Bolt-on Wings.................................................25
Rubber Band-on Wings..................................26
Mount the Tail Surfaces .................................26
Tailwheel Assembly (optional) .......................27
Mount the Engine
FINISHING.....................................................30
Balance the Airplane Laterally .......................30
Final Sanding .................................................30
Covering.........................................................30
Covering Tips Using Monokote®......................30
Recommended Covering Sequence ..............31
Fuel Proofing..................................................31
Hinging...........................................................31
Final Control Hookup .....................................32
Aileron Control Hookup ..................................33
How to Make Z-bends ....................................33
Control Surface Throws .................................34
Apply Decals and Trim ............................35,36
Install Receiver, Battery, Switch..................... 36
...........................................28
Install
the Fuel Tank
BALANCE YOUR MODEL
FINAL CHECKS
PRE-FLIGHT
Charge the Radio Batteries............................38
Find
a Safe
Ground Check the Model ...............................38
Range Check your Radio
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS............... 38
AMA SAFETY CODE
General ..........................................................39
Radio Control.................................................39
FIRST
Take Off.........................................................40
Flying..............................................................40
Landing
Landing Pattern Drawings..............................41
PARTS LIST
2-VIEW DRAWING
Place
FLIGHTS
..........................................................41
.......................................36
............................37
............................................37
to Fly
.................................38
...............................38
....................................39
............................................39
..................................................43
........................................44
WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY!
3
2. You must take your time to build straight true
and strong.
The model you will build from this kit is not a toy! It is capable of serious bodily harm
and property damage. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE - to build
this kit correctly, properly install all R/C components to test fly the model, and fly it
ONLY with experienced, competent help using common sense and in accordance with
all safety standards as set down in the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code.
It is suggested that you join the AMA to become properly insured before you attempt
to fly the model. IF YOU ARE JUST STARTING R/C MODELING, CONSULT YOUR
LOCAL HOBBY SHOP OR WRITE TO THE ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS
TO FIND AN EXPERIENCED FLYING INSTRUCTOR IN YOUR AREA.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
1810 Samuel Morse Drive
Reston, VA 22090 (703) 435-0750
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing the Top Flite
GOLD EDITION Sierra.
The Top Flite Sierra is an excellent trainer model
designed to get you off to a great start in learning to
build and fly. After you learn to fly, the Sierra also has
enough maneuverability to perform most basic aerobatics and provide many hours flying enjoyment.
The easy construction, great lines, and included
decals make it easy for you to build a great-looking
model.
The Top Flite Sierra is designed to fly as good as
it looks. Its thick, flat-bottom wing offers strong lift at
slow speeds and great strength. The computerdesigned, interlocking structure allows you to build a
straight and true model with smooth confidence-
boosting flight qualities.
Please inspect all parts carefully before
starting to build! If any parts are missing, broken
or defective, or if you have any questions about
building or flying this model, please call us at
(217) 398-6300 and we'll be glad to help. If you
are calling for replacement parts, please look up
the part numbers and the kit identification number (stamped on the end of the carton) and have
them ready when calling.
PRECAUTIONS
1. You must build the plane according to the plans
and instructions. Do not alter or modify the model,
as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable
model. In a few cases the plans and instructions may
differ slightly from the photos. In those instances you
should assume the plans and written instructions are
correct.
3. You must use a proper R/C radio that is in first
class condition, the correct engine size and correct
components (fuel tank. wheels, etc.) throughout
your building process.
4. You must properly install all R/C and other components so that the model operates properly on the
ground and in the air.
5. You must test the operation of the model before
the first and each successive flight to insure that all
equipment is operating, and to make certain that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to
check external nylon clevises often. Replace them
if they show signs of wear.
6. You must fly the model only with the competent
help of a well experienced R/C pilot, if you are not
already an experienced R/C pilot at this time.
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide
you with a top quality kit and great instructions,
but ultimately the quality and flyability of your
finished model depends on how you build it;
therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the
performance of your completed model, and no
representations are expressed or implied as to
the performance or safety of your completed
model.
Remember: Take your time and follow the directions to complete a well-built model that is
straight and true.
4
DIE PATTERNS
5
EARLY IN THE
BUILDING SEQUENCE
ENGINE AND MOUNT SELECTION
The recommended engine size range is as follows:
.28-.40-.46 cu. in.
.40-.48-.60 cu. in. 4-cycle
NOTE: The displacement in bold type is the
most highly recommended. However, all
these engines will fly the Sierra well.
The supplied MM40 motor mount should
hold most of the two strokes in the range and
some of the four strokes. It is permissible to file
the inside of the mount slightly to fit larger engines
(see photo on page 28). Some engines may
require you to buy a different mount from your
hobby dealer. Study the plans and the engine
mounting section of this bookformore information
and sample installations.
BOLT-ON OR
RUBBER BAND-ON WINGS
The Sierra has been designed and tested
with rubber band-on or bolt-on wings. The rubber band on wings will better absorb the shocks
of a crash or landing accident such as a cartwheel.
If you have a good instructor and flying site or
already have some flying experience, you may
want to use the bolt-on wing option.
3 OR 4 CHANNELS
The Sierra flies very well with or without
ailerons. The 3-channel version will be cheaper
and easierto build. The 4-channel version offers
the extra flexibility of aileron control. Ailerons
2-cycle
of
make cross wind take offs and landings easier
to control, so many instructors recommend
ailerons.
TRICYCLE OR TAILDRAGGER
GEAR
The tricycle landing gear is considered
standard. We recommend the tricycle gear if
this is your first airplane because it offers the
best ground handling as well as straight ahead
take offs and landings. The tricycle gear also
does a better job of protecting the propeller
during bouncy take offs and landings. If you
are sport flying the Sierra or want to learn to fly
a taildragger, provisions have been made to
allow you to build the Sierra as a taildragger.
The Great Planes #L-7 tail wheel assembly
may be purchased from your dealer and
modified slightly to match the drawing on the
fuselage plans.
SELECTION OF WHEELS
The standard recommended wheels
two 2-3/4" main wheels and one 2-1/2" nose
wheel. If you are flying off grass or an uneven
surface, you may wish to use larger wheels
than those recommended. The standard
wheels have been tested off of grass and work
fine, but 3" wheels all the way around would
work even better.
If you will be flying a taildragger off of
grass, we recommend using 3" to 3-1/4" main
wheels and a 1" to 1-1/4" tailwheel.
are
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
Three or Four-channel radio with 3 or 4 servos
Engine
Propellers (Top Flite Power Point recommended-see
engine instructions for sizes)
2-1/4" Prop Spinner
Fuel Tank (Most 6 to 10 oz. tanks will tit)
2-3/4" Main Wheels (2)
2-1/2" Nose Wheel (1) (or 1" Tailwheel)
5/32" Wheel Collars - (4-6)
Top Flite MonoKote"
*Model shown covered with 2 rolls of Yellow, plus Missile
Red, and Orange for trim
Silicone Fuel Tubing
Latex Foam Rubber Padding (1/4" thick)
#64 Rubber Bands (10-12 for rubber band-on wings)
1/8" Foam Wing Seating Tape (optional)
SUGGESTED SUPPLIES
AND TOOLS
2 oz. Thin CA Adhesive (Hobbico Bullet Glue is Recommended)
2 oz. Medium CA Adhesive (Hobbico Bullet Glue is Recommended)
15-Minute Epoxy (Hobbico Bullet Glue is Recommended)
Hand or Electric Drill
Drill Bits: 1/16", 3/32", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", 1/4"
Top Flite Heat Sealing Tool
Top Flite Heat Gun
Hobby Saw (X-acto Razor Saw)
X-acto Knife, #11 Blades
Pliers
Screw Drivers
T-Pins
Straightedge
Short ruler
Masking Tape (Suggested for construction)
Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*
T-Bar Sanding Block (or similar)
Waxed Paper
Lightweight Balsa Filler
1/4-20 Tap. Tap Wrench (optional bolt on wings)
IsopropyI Rubbing Alcohol (70%)
Dremel Moto Tool or similar (optional)
NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11" T-Bar sanders,
equipped with #80, #100, #150, and #220-grit sandpaper. This
setup is all that is required for almost any sanding task.
Sanding blocks can be made from balsa for sanding hard to
reach spots. We also keep some #320-grit wet-or-dry
sandpaper handy for finish sanding before covering
6
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED
IN THIS BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:
Deg. = Degrees Lt = Left
Elev = Elevator Ply = Plywood
Fuse = Fuselage Fit = Right
LE = Leading Edge (front) Stab = Stabilizer
LG
= Landing Gear TE = Trailing
= Box to check after step " = Inches
is completed.
Edge (rear)
Save all scraps. If any of the die-cut parts are difficult
to punch out, do not force them! Instead, first cut
around the parts with an X-acto knife. After punching
out the die-cut parts, use your T-Bar or sanding block
to lightly sand the edges to remove any die-cutting
irregularities.
3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate
them into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin
and stab (stabilizer), and hardware.
USING GLUE
There are two types of glue that are recom-
mended for building this model: CA and Epoxy.
gaps, require slight repositioning, or involve
hardwoods. Medium CA can be used to make
small fillets between parts in high stress areas.
Medium CA is a very good general purpose
glue and many people use it for the majority of
their building.
Some medium CA glues can be slow to set,
especially when used to fill gaps. A product
known as CA accelerator is available to speed
things up. It is sprayed onto the joint after the
glue is applied and chemically reacts with the
glue causing it to set very rapidly. There are a
few precautions to consider when using an
accelerator...
Balsa Basswood Plywood
GET READY TO BUILD
1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plans inside
out to make them lie flat. The wing plan sheet has a
cut-line across it. If you have a small building space
you may cut the wing plan into two pieces along this
line.
The fuselage plan sheet does not have a cut-line
across it. It is used mostly for reference and not
much building is done over it. There is not much
benefit in cutting it apart, but you may do so if you
wish.
2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do,
figure out the name of each part by comparing it with
the plans, die-cut patterns, and the parts list at the
back of this book. Using a felt tip pen, write the part
name or size on each piece to avoid confusion later.
Use the die-cut patterns shown on page 4 to identify
the die-cut parts and mark them before punching out.
CA (cyanoacrylate) glue is used for general construction. It is available in a variety of
viscosities. We recommend you have the following two types.
Thin CA has a viscosity similar to water
and is used to glue together parts that fit
together very well and do not require repositioning after glue is applied. Thin CA is especially effective for gluing balsa to balsa. It can
be used to glue hardwoods such as plywood,
spruce, or bass but it is usually necessary to
fillet the joint afterwards with some medium CA.
Thin CA has the ability to "wick" into joints. This
means it will be drawn into very fine gaps
between parts. This characteristic makes thin
CA very useful for a lot of tasks, such as gluing
seams that are already clamped together or
installing CA hinges. Thin CA usually sets very
rapidly, so do not expect to move parts at all
after glue is applied. This rapid reaction may
also produce fumes and a significant amount of
heat. Always use CA glues in a well-ventilated
area.
The other type of CA glue we recommend
is medium (or gap filling). Medium CA is used
in
general construction for parts which have
Use it in a well ventilated area. The rapid
reaction can release irritating fumes at a higher
rate than normal. Do not use CA accelerator on
thin CA!
Be careful when using the accelerator
around plastics. Certain accelerators may
attack some plastics and the vapors may fog
clear canopies. It is best to test the glue and
accelerator on a scrap piece of plastic if one is
available.
Using too much accelerator may cause the
CA glue to react very rapidly and literally boil.
This will result in a joint with a chalky white color
which is not nearly as strong as a normal joint.
Epoxy is used on high-stress joints that
require toughness and vibration resistance.
Epoxy also works well in areas that may encounter fuel. Its slower cure time allows parts
to be clamped, checked, and realigned if necessary before the epoxy sets. Epoxy is available in many different formulas having different
cure times. The single best type of epoxy to
have available when building your Sierra is one
that sets in 15 minutes, but you may also find 5minute epoxy handy to have around.
NOTES ON SANDING
1. Use a block orT-barwhereever possible when
sanding. The flat block will "ignore" glue and
changing wood density and give you a true and
even shape.
2. Always use fresh, sharp sandpaper. Sharp
sandpaper will cut through glue and hard materials easily, giving an even surface. Older, dull
sandpaper will require more pressure and may
gouge the surface.
BUILD THE TAIL
SURFACES
To build the tail surfaces, you will need the following:
1/4" shaped balsa fin fwd
1/4" shaped balsa fin aft
1/4" shaped balsa rudder
1/4" shaped balsa stab fwd
1/4" shaped balsa stab aft
Tapered balsa elevator
1/8" bent wire elevator joiner
of a paper towel to make sanding easier. Flip the
parts over and apply some thin CA to the other side
of the joint.
3. The notch in the shaped 1/4" balsa stab aft
piece is positioned at the back edge of the stab so the
fin post can protrude through the notch later when
you are told to attach the tail surfaces to the fuselage.
Glue the shaped 1/4" balsa stab (stabilizer) fwd to
the stab aft in the same manner as the fin parts.
7
150 grit sandpaper to smooth out any unevenness.
Carefully block sand the edges and ends to correct
any slight bumps or mismatches. Align the notch at
the back edge of the stab and the stab TE with the
plans. Mark the fin location on the front edge of the
stab. Draw two lines from these marks to the notch
in the aft edge of the stab.
5. Refer to the cross section on the plans. Use
a sanding block to round the stab leading edge
(except the flattened center portion). Mark the
location of the dorsal fin on the forward edge of the
fin using the plans as a guide and round the fin only
above the dorsal fin. The fin, rudder, and stab should
have their tip edge corners rounded slightly for
easier covering (see the cross sections on the fuselage plans).
1. Work on a flat surface covered with waxed
paper. Refer
their
locations.
2. Put the shaped 1/4" balsa fin fwd, fin aft, and
the 1/4" x 3/8" x 8-7/8" balsa fin post together and
check how the parts fit. Block sand the mating
surfaces until they fit well. Hold the parts together
tightly and glue them together with thin CA. Imme-
diately wipe off any excess glue with a quick stroke
to the plans to identify the parts and
4. Block sand the surfaces of the fin and stab with
6. Use a smooth ball point pen to draw a
8
centerline along the stab trailing edge, tapered balsa
elevator leading edge, fin trailing edge, and shaped
1/4" balsa rudder leading edge.
7. Referring to the cross sections on the plans,
carefully block sand the elevator and rudder leading
edges to a "V" shape. The centerlines you drew
earlier should remain for hinging later.
NOTE: The rudder may be left at a constant
thickness of 1/4" or you may taper it with a
sanding block to match the top view on the
fuselage plans. For a model that travels at a
relatively slow speed such as this one, it is not
necessary to taper the rudder to make the aircraft
fly properly. If you want to taper it for appearance
reasons, that is fine.
shown on the plans and in the photo. This will make
it easier to align the elevators.
10. Lay the elevators and the elevator joiner over
the plans. Mark where the joiner will insert into the
elevators. Start the hole in the elevators by cutting
a small 1/8" square notch with a sharp #11 knife.
Carefully drill a 1/8" hole into each elevator to the
depth shown on the plans. Use the knife to cut a
groove in the front of the elevator at the root end for
the joiner (as shown in the photo).
11. Make sure the joiner wire will fit all the way into
each elevator and that both elevators lie flat on the
work surface with the joiner installed. Bend the joiner
wire if necessary to make the elevators line up with
each other. Rough up the joiner wire with coarse
sandpaper and clean it with alcohol. Mix some 5minute epoxy and use a tooth pick or piece of wire to
push the epoxy into the hole and groove in the
elevator. Push the joiner into the elevators and wipe
away any excess glue. Lay the parts over the plans
to aid in alignment while the glue sets. It is important
that the elevator LE is straight so you will not have
problems when you hinge it later.
12. After the epoxy is cured apply some thin CA
to both sides of the balsa elevator over the joiner to
'harden' the area. Sand the cured glue smooth.
13. Place the fin and stab over the plans and mark
the hinge locations on the trailing edges. Transfer
the locations onto the elevator and rudder leading
edges.
8. Hold the tapered elevator stock over the plans
and mark the locations of the cuts at the center
where the elevator is cut away to allow for rudder
movement. Use a razor saw to cut away the right and
left elevators.
An alternate method to make a groove in a surface
for a torque rod is to sharpen the end of an appropriately sized (1/8") brass tube from the inside with a
#11 knife, then use the tube to cut out the notch for
9. Locate the bent 1/8" wire elevator joiner. Use
the torque rod.
14. Cut the hinge slots using
a flat file or a grinder to taper the ends slightly as described on the following page.
the
technique
9
CAUTION!!! You must use extreme care to
avoid cutting yourself when cutting hinge
slots with an X-acto knife. If the balsa breaks
while you are pushing on the knife, the blade
could go into your hand before you know it!
A good precaution is to wear leather gloves
while performing this step.
A. Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow slit
at the hinge location. This first cut is to establish your
cut in the right place, so concentrate on staying on
the centerline and don't cut too deep!
B. Make three or four more cuts in the same line,
going slightly deeper each time. As you make
these additional cuts, work on going straight into the
wood. Continue this process while "wiggling" the
knife handle forward and backward until the blade
has reached the proper depth for the hinge.
C. Trial fit the hinge into the slot. If the hinge is
difficult to push in, re-insert the knife and move it
back and forth in the slot a few times to enlarge the
slot.
BUILD THE FUSELAGE
1. Place the fuselage plan side view on your work
table. Cover it with waxed paper.
2. Use thin CA to glue the separately die-cut
corner of the die-cut 1 /8" balsa upper forward fuse
sides in place as shown in the photo. These parts
are located in the same die-cut sheets (SIE4F07).
Remember that you will be making a right and a left
fuselage side. You may wish to glue from opposite
sides of the wood in order to reduce sanding.
NOTE: The plans may shrink or expand slightly
due to humidity. Do not worry if the parts are not
exactly the same size as the plans.
4. Plug the die-cut 1/8" balsa aft fuse sides into
the forward fuse sides. Sand them lightly if necessary to make them fit. Before gluing be sure to align
the parts over the plans. Any "bend" in the fuse sides
will cause the fuselage to twist later. When the fuse
sides are well aligned with the plans, glue the forward
and aft pieces together with thin CA. Add medium
CA to any joints that are not tight fitting.
15. Trial fit the hinges in the slots and trial fit the
rudder and elevator in place on the fin and stab. Do
not glue the hinges until after you have covered
the model.
3. Glue the upper forward fuse sides to the diecut 1/8" balsa lower forward fuse sides using thin
CA. Mark the inside surface of the fuse sides with the
letters 'R' and 'L to designate the inside of the Right
and Left fuselage sides. Be sure to make a RIGHT
and a LEFT fuselage side.
5. Use a sanding block to sand smooth all of the
joints you have made on the fuse sides.
6. Position the die-cut 1/8" balsa rear fuse
doubler in its place on the inside surface at the rear
10
of the fuselage side. Use the die-cut 1/8" plywood
former F-5 to help you position the doubler (do not
glue the former in until told to do so later). Notice that
the pushrod exit holes do not line up (this is normal
and makes the pushrod installation in later steps
easier). Apply several beads of medium CA to the
doubler and position it on the fuselage side. When
it is aligned properly, press it firmly down to spread
out the beads of glue. Repeat this step for the other
side. Be sure to make a RIGHT and a LEFT.
carefully in position. Apply thin CA around the all
edges of the doubler to reinforce it. Glue the
doublers to the inside of both the left and the right
fuse sides.
AT THIS POINT YOU MUST DECIDE
WHETHER YOU ARE GOING TO BUILD
A TAILDRAGGER OR A TRIKE GEAR
MODEL. THE POSITION OF THE LANDING
GEAR DOUBLER (GD) DEPENDS ON THIS.
may be placed in two different positions (forward for
taildragger gear, aft for trike gear). Note also the offcenter slot in the doubler. The slot should be offcenter toward the aft end of the left fuselage side,
and the forward end of the right fuselage side. Glue
the gear doublers in the position chosen.
10. Glue the right and left die-cut 1/8" balsa
forward fuse bottom pieces together with thin CA.
Add medium CA to any gaps.
fuselage doubler over the inside of the fuselage
sides. Notice that it should fit perfectly at the very
front of the fuselage, and then be offset 1/8" in from
the edge of the fuselage sides most of the rest of the
way back. The photos and plans will help you
determine the proper location of the doublers. Use
the front edges and the lock notch in the fuse side
near the lower aft portion of the doubler to align the
doubler.
8. Apply medium CA to the doubler and press it
9. Study the fuselage plans in the landing gear
area. The die-cut 1/8" plywood gear doublers (GD)
11. Glue the right and left die-cut 1/8" balsa
middle fuse bottom pieces together with thin CA.
Place the die-cut 1/8" balsa aft fuse bottom piece
into the notch at the back end of the middle fuse
bottom. Notice that there is a gap in the middle. This
is for former F-4 to key into later. Check that these
parts are properly aligned by positioning them over
the fuselage top view on the plans. Glue with thin
CA. Add medium CA to any gaps.
12. Glue the right and left die-cut 1/8" balsa aft
fuse top pieces together with thin CA. Note the diecut "bumps" at the aft end of the aft fuse top. Trim
these off with a straightedge and a sharp knife.
13. Use medium CA to glue the die-cut 1/8"
plywood firewall F-1A (1A) to F-1B (1B). F-1A is
centered on the slightly larger F-1 B. Make sure the
side of F-1A with the punch marks on it remains
visible. (See the photo at step 14).
NOTE: For the following steps, refer to the firewall
cross section drawing on the fuselage plans. At this
point you must know which engine you will use. If you
are using a recommended 2-cycle engine which fits
into the supplied mount, all the punch marks on F-1A
will be drilled to their appropriate size (in the following
steps). If you are using a 4-cycle engine or an engine
that requires a different mount, you will need to
determine the mounting, throttle pushrod exit, steering
pushrod exit, and fuel line exit hole locations for your
installation. (HINT: Use the four standard mount
punch marks on F-1A to help you locate an alternate
mount by drawing an "X" between them to find the
engine centerline). Regardless which engine you are
using, mount it on this centerline.
drill. Use the firewall (F-1) cross-section on the
fuselage plans to positively identify these hole locations. While you have the 5/32" drill bit out, drill 5/32"
holes through the two punch marks in the die-cut
1/8" ply landing gear plate (LGP).
15. Drill 1/4" fuel line exit holes at the top edge
of F-1. The punch mark locations should be OK for
most engine installations.
16. Drill a 3/16" throttle pushrod hole in F-1 in the
location you determined. A punch mark indicates
the "standard" pushrod exit location.
17. If you are using the tricycle landing gear, drill
a 3/16" pushrod exit hole in F-1 at
the
appropriate
punch mark location.
11
NOTE: At this point you should determine if you
need to use the 9mm x 2" x 2" plywood spacer
plate in your engine installation. Study the
engine installation drawings on the fuse plan
sheet. Short engines such as the OS .40 FP
require the use of this plate. Longer engines
such as the OS .40 SF or 4-cycle engines do not
require the use of this plate.
19. If you are using the 9mm spacer plate, center
the MM40 motor mount on one side of the plate and
mark the four mounting hole locations. Drill the holes
in the spacer plate with a 1/8" drill bit.
14. If you are using the supplied mount, drill the
four punch marks in the middle of F-1 with a 5/32"
18. Drill 3/16" pushrod holes at the punch marks
in die-cut 1/8" plywood formers F-2 (2), F-3 (3), and
F-4 (4). Refer to the cross-sections on the fuselage
plans to confirm the pushrod locations.
4-40 x 1" Machine Screw No. 4 Flat Washer
20. Gently tap the 4-40 blind nuts into the back
(F-1 B) side of the firewall. Bolt the motor mount (and
the 9mm spacer if required) to the firewall using the
supplied 4-40 x 1" machine screws and
#4
wash-
ers. Carefully apply a small drop of thin CA to the
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perimeter of the flange on each 4-40 blind nut.
Remove the motor mount.
1/8" plywood former F-5 (5) in place to confirm a
good fit.
IMPORTANT NOTE: All formers (F-1 through
F-5) are glued in with the stamped numbers
facing forward and upright as shown in the
photos. This is necessary to maintain proper
pushrod routing.
21. Use a small round file to blend the pushrod
exits at the aft end of both the fuselage sides to allow
the outer pushrod tubes to exit at the proper angle
as shown on the fuselage top view and in the photos.
If you do not have a file, use a #11 knife to shape the
pushrod exits as shown in the photo. Hold die-cut
22. Use medium CA to glue the die-cut 1/8"
plywood former F-2B to the left fuselage side. Use a
90 degree triangle to keep the former perpendicular
to the fuse side while gluing.
23. Glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood former F-3 to
the left fuse side in the same manner as F-2. (The
photo for this step is at the top of the next column).
24. Push the 1 /4" ply wing bolt plate into position
just ahead of F-3 but do not glue yet. If the fit of this
plate is too tight, sand it slightly till it fits comfortably.
(Install this plate for strength even if you are using
rubber band-on wings.)
side structure. When all the alignment tabs on F-2
and F-3 are thoroughly engaged by the right fuselage side, turn the fuselage upright as shown in the
photo and apply medium CA glue to the joints of the
right fuse side and F-2 and F-3.
26. See the photo above step 29 for the proper
position and orientation of the die-cut 1/8" plywood
former F-4. Use medium CA to glue former F-4 in its
place between the fuselage sides. Snap the die-cut
1/8" plywood former F-5 into position at the back of
the fuselage but do not glue yet; instead, use some
masking tape to hold the fuselage together. Re-
member all of the former I.D. numbers face forward.
28. Work the aft fuselage bottom pieces (assembled earlier) into position between the fuselage
sides, sanding if necessary for a good fit. Use some
masking tape to hold the fuse together.
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30. Position the firewall (F-1A/B) in place between the fuselage sides. Use a strip of masking
tape to hold the fuse sides together at the front. Do
not glue the firewall yet.
27. Snap the landing gear plate (LGP) into
position at the fuse bottom. If you are building a
taildragger, make a duplicate of LGP (but without the
holes) out of scrap 1/8" balsa and substitute it at the
tricycle LGP location. The plywood LGP will be
installed in step 31 for the taildragger. Check to see
that the holes for the landing gear line up with the
slots in the gear doublers (GD). Do not glue yet.
29. Check the previously assembled, unglued
parts for fit and alignment. Correct any problems.
Apply medium CA from the inside of the fuselage to
any unglued joints involving the following parts: F-3,
F-4, F-5,and LGP. Use thin CA to glue the fuse
bottom to the fuse sides from its front edge back to
F-5. The very aft portion will be glued later when the
tail surfaces are installed.
31. (If you are making the taildragger version, put
the 1 /8" plywood LGP in place between the fuselage
sides at the taildragger position shown on the fuselage plans.) Work the 1 /8" forward fuse bottom sheet
joined earlier into position between the fuselage
sides. Use masking tape to hold the fuse bottom in
place.
32. Flex the fuselage sides outward and apply
medium CA or epoxy to the edges of the firewall.
Use
masking tape to hold the joint closed while the
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glue cures. Glue the forward bottom sheeting to the
fuse sides, the firewall, LGP, and former F-2 with thin
CA followed with a fillet of medium CA.
33. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa fuselage cross
member (FC) to the forward bottom sheeting as
shown on the fuse plan side view. This piece simply
stiffens the fuselage floor in the tank area.
rudder and elevator pushrods. Glue them securely
to the fuselage sides, F-5, F-4, and F-3.
34. Sand the outside of two of the 24" outer
pushrod tubes so glue will stick to them. Work
these into position as shown on the plans for the
35. Snap the previously joined aft fuse top into
place on top of the fuselage. Use masking tape to
hold the fuse top in place. Wick thin CA glue into its
joints with the fuse sides and the formers. Do not
glue the area behind F-5 yet. Remove the tape and
run thin CA down the joints again to make sure they
are thoroughly glued.
36. Trial fit the die-cut 1 /8" plywood back window
(BW) in its place on the fuse top. Refer to the
fuselage side view; for best results, bevel the fore
and aft edges of the window to provide a better fit.
HINT: To eliminate difficult sanding later, round the
"lock tabs" on the outside edges of the plywood
windows to a radius similar to that shown on the plan
cross-sections before gluing the windows in.
37. Glue the back window in with thin CA. Then
add some medium CA if required.
38. Wick thin CA into all joints involving the wing
bolt plate. After this has cured, apply a fillet of epoxy
or medium CA around the wing bolt plate.
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