Top Flite S.E.5A User Manual
Congratulations! You now own the most accurate R/C scale kit ever produced.
We at Top Flite are sure that you will find this model among the most
pleasant-to-build, inspiring to look at, and exciting to fly that you have constructed.
It is honest to point out, however, that while this model is no more difficult
—in fact is simpler than most comparable models—to make, R/C Scale models
generally are not for the newcomer to this hobby. Some previous modeling experience and careful attention to craftsmanship are necessary. Even the "old hand"
will do well to study the instructions and hints in this booklet.
It is our aim to have you say: "This is the finest model I have ever made."
TOP FLITE MODELS, INC.
INTRODUCTION
The S. E. 5A has always been a modeler's favorite. Among all airplanes,
and certainly of those which were born and flew to fame and distinction during
World War I, the S. E 5 was one of the best and most attractive Not the least
of the reasons for its great appeal to modelers is the great suitability of its design
as a flying model Let's explain this.
To make a successful flying model, without changes to the outline or sections which would destroy its essential character, we need the following features:
a. The nose length of the airplane ought to be enough to guarantee a
good balance without adding large amounts of weight in the front end;
b. The tail surfaces (stabilizer and fin) control the stability of a model
to a large extent If the model is more stable in flight, it will be easier
and safer to fly We require that the stab and fin be big enough to
insure good stability without enlargement.
c The airplane should be fairly simple in design to eliminate building
complexities
d. Size is important too. For reasons of transportation and ability to
fly in a reasonable wind, experience has shown that the wing span of
the model (for a .40 - .60 engine) should be in the 50 - 60 range In
order to eliminate headaches in small and fussy details, a scale of
2"= 1' is found very suitable. This means our subject real plane needs
to be 24' - 30' wing span.
How does the S. E. 5A shape up?
First, it has just about as long a nose as is found in fighter airplanes
of the period. Balance will not be a problem—a tail-heavy S. E. 5 would be
difficult to come up with.
Secondly, the areas of the tail feathers have been found to give excellent
stability just as they are. A model of the S. E. 5A will be a stable and safe
model—so stable, in fact, that it can be flown very successfully with single-
channel R/C equipment controlling only the rudder.
Thirdly, the S. E. 5A has clean, functional and straightforward outlines
and shapes that are easy to model.
Lastly, the wing span of 26' 7-1/2" gives our 2"=1' model an ideal span of
a bit over 53" This size model will fit into most cars without disassembly, saving
a lot of trouble.
So we see that our requirements are amply met in these respects. Some
other planes are Just as suitable — but lack one final important requirement
They are obscure or little-known subjects that somehow never rang the bell
The S. E. 5A, on the other hand, is a glorious and immortal plane that every
scale modeler has made or hopes to make some day.
BEFORE YOU START—READ THIS!
These instructions have been carefully developed after building several
prototype models. We urge you, in your own interest, not to ignore them. Our
aim is to insure that the model goes together in a reasonably quick time and
without annoying snags.
Regardless of previous modeling experience follow the directions carefully,
checking them off as you go.
Notice the instructions often call for some items to be started before others
are complete This is to allow time for important glue joints to dry properly,
yet not hold up building progress. Also, in order to help modelers of less experience,
we have tended to the easier jobs first, leaving those requiring more care until
later as skill increases
Do not separate parts from die cut sheets until you need them! This will
save loss or breakage of some of the small or delicate pieces.
1
After removing any pins from the crutch that will get in the way, glue side
pieces F-l and F-2 to the crutch. Use the "TRI-AIDS" provided to insure the
sides are truly vertical
Glue the 1/4" sq. bottom longerons to F-l and F-2, followed by F-28 and the
vertical spacers Use the side view of the fuselage for the correct lengths
The previously-cut horizontal cross-braces are glued in next, also F-lA's, F-18 and
F-5 (ply) Glue in F-6 (ply) and the other 3/8" x 3/4" x 3-3/4" hardwood block for wing
mounting (Special note if it is intended to install a Top Flite 2" scale pilot, this
hardwood block should be glued in only lightly at this time—later it should be
removed to allow the pilot to be slid up into place from the wing opening After
the pilot is installed, the wing mount block can be glued firmly in place.)
6. While this assembly is drying start on the stabilizer See Figure 3. Pin down
the 1/4" x 1/2" stab trailing edge (T E) to the plan Cut a piece of 1/4" sq to length
for the spar and thread ribs S-1, S-2 and S-3 onto the spar in correct order Do not
glue the joints yet. Glue and pin the ribs to the T E Note that the center two ribs
must be shimmed up 1/16" to bring the ribs centered on the TE
Laminate the two S-4 parts that make each tip Cut leading-edge (LE) to length
from 1/4" sq and glue to all ribs, with 1/8" shim under it Now glue all rib-to-spar
joints, and glue tips S-4 in place Sheet over center two ribs with piece S-5. Set
aside to dry
7 Remove fuselage assembly from board and turn right-side up At this time
you can put aside the fuselage plan-view as no more fuselage construction will be
done on the board Sand fuselage, trimming bottom longeron at F-l. See Figure 4.
Glue two F-3A pieces together and glue both to F-4. Glue F-ll to F-11A and
F-14 to F-14A. Lay these items aside to dry.
3
File notches into the rear cabane-strut wire and attach to the hardwood blocks in
the crutch, using metal clips and woodscrews provided. Glue the shaped tail block
in position on the fuselage, also formers F-17, F-16, F-15, F-14 and 14A, F-13,
F-ll and 11A, F-8 and F-4. Formers 8, 11 and 13 must be glued at correct angles
(see side view). Take care here, as the fit of the cut panels F-23 to F-27 depends
on the accuracy of the angles on the formers.
8. Remove stabilizer from plan. Turn upside down and glue second S-5 in place.
Pin down 1/4" x 1/2" elevator L. E. Glue laminated E-2's together for tips. Pin
1/8" x 3/8"
and E-2 tips in place, also center ribs from
T.E.'s in position, shim underneath
1/4"
at rear edge. Glue all E-l ribs
1/4" x 1/2"
cut to length.
9. Sand the stabilizer smooth, rounding off the L. E. and tips. The small riblets
are simply cut from 1/16"x 1/8" and glued in place, then sanded to conform to
section when dry. These riblets are marked "optional" on the plan, since they could
be omitted without affecting the strength of the stab. However, for the sake of the
scale appearance it is worth taking the small extra time to incorporate them.
10.
When elevators have dried, remove from plan and sand smooth like the
stab. Glue in 1/16" ply elevator horn E-3. The stab and elevator can now be
hinged together using the material provided cut to length — see plan for positions.
Glue a small piece of 1/16" scrap sheet alongside the elevator horn to support the
covering. The stab is now finished.
PLY DIHEDRAL-BRACE
FIG.
5
11.
Make up the wing spars (see Figure 5) as follows: Take the 1/4" x 3/8" and
1/4" x 1/4"
basswood spars and cut two 8" lengths of each size. Glue these in the
BASSWOOD WING SPARS*
center of ply parts D-1 and D-2. Then glue long spars to each side at the same
angle as the ply parts, over the plan sheet #1. Construct four such spars: two from
1/4" x 3/8" and two from
1/4" x 1/4"
. It will help to pin these to the board right next
to each other while they dry, so as to have identical angles on all sets.
12.
Glue ply F-7 between fuselage sides, lower front. The two holes are for
excess engine oil to drain away from the engine bay, and should be positioned just
ahead of former F-5. Glue the 1/4" x 1/2" strip parts on the front of F-4 and complete
the noseblock by glueing F-3 in place. Figure 6 shows these details. The radiator
grille is made from the mouldings supplied. Join two grille pieces and trim
long. Glue
4-3/4"
long pieces of
1/16" x 3/16"
on
each side
to
complete
the
to
4-3/4"
"box."
Make sure that all of the cross-bars are glued to these sides; and that the sides are
level with the front (open) side of the moulding. Later, when the glue dries, the
web holding all the cross-bars at the rear is sanded off, making an open grille very
easily and accurately. See Figure 6A. Repeat the whole process for the other grille
and cement the finished grilles over the large rectangular holes in F-3. Glue F-3B
in place. (Discard second F-3B in other Sheet 2).
HEADREST STRINGERS
13.
Cut proper size hole in
1/4"
phenolic engine plate for the engine you are
going to use. Drill holes to suit and mount the engine. Fit the plate up to the
fuselage (remove the needle valve temporarily if necessary) and when you have
it fitting snugly down on the mounts, drill through plate and mounts simultaneously
to insure accuracy for the mounting screws. Screw plate in place using the
3/4"
woodscrews provided. Slide fuel tank in position and connect to engine with fuel
tubing.
14.
It is a good plan at this time to install the R/C equipment and the pushrod
to the throttle. Due to the enormous variations in available equipment it is not
possible to give precise diagrams for every R/C equipment installation: however,
the motor-control servo should be fitted between F-8 and F-ll. In the original prototype models, a Kraft proportional KP-4B outfit was used, and it was found very
convenient to mount the three KPS-10 servos for engine, elevator and rudder sideby-side on two
1/8" x 3/8"
basswood cross-spacers, so that all 3 servos were between
F-8 and F-ll. In this case the radio receiver was glued to the rear face of F-11A
via a small foam rubber pad.
The battery will fit in the space between F-5 and F-8. While it is true than an installation where the servos are ahead of the receiver is uncommon, this was one of
the cases where it was warranted. So plan your own equipment installation at this
stage. If you are a beginner at this, get the help of an experienced R/C builder!
We cannot put too much emphasis on this point. It is probably true to say that a
very high percentage of equipment malfunctions can be directly attributed to sloppy
or defective installation. Remember a long life for your model (and the safety of
spectators) depends vitally on good equipment installation.
15. After connecting the throttle to the motor-control servo, check for easy
frictionless movement over the whole range of throttle travel. When satisfied, remove the engine, tank and servos before continuing with building, so as not to get
any balsa dust, etc. in delicate equipment.
16.
READ THIS COMPLETE INSTRUCTION BEFORE STARTING.
The sheet panels F-23, 24, 25, 26 and 27 can now be glued in place. This may
appear at first to be a very difficult job to do without breaking the pieces. In truth,
it is very easy as long as the correct method is followed closely. We will explain
using one example piece, and the rest of the panels all follow the same general
idea. This is how to proceed: —
Take one F-23 piece and glue the lower edge to the right fuselage side (use regular
balsa cement). Let this joint dry thoroughly! If you try to continue too soon, the
joint will come apart and you'll be back at the start, and have to re-glue and wait
again. When dry, thoroughly dampen the outside of F-23, being careful not to wet
the glue joint just made. You can wet the wood with a cloth and water. After
a few moments, try pulling the sheet around the formers that it will be glued to.
You will find that it will bend to the required curve very easily. Spread glue (this
time use Titebond or white glue—not balsa cement) on the edges of F-8 and F-ll,
and pin the wrapped sheet firmly to the formers to set. Masking tape also can be
used to get firm contact.
The other panels are done in the same way. Glue F-26 in place before F-27. Wet
and attach one panel at a time. Start at the front again on the left-hand side. Notice
the panels are of slightly over-width as cut—this is to allow final trimming of the
left-hand pieces to exactly fit the right-hand ones already in position.
About the only panel that may give a little trouble is F-24 on the left side. (This
is why we had you do the right panels first—to get experience!) This is because
of the tight radius at the front over F-11A; so do not be concerned if a small split
develops here. After the panel has dried you can run some glue in the split or fill
with vinyl-spackle (purchase this at a hardware store). Notice also, that a small
clearance-cutaway must be made in F-25 and F-24 for the rear-strut wire. Any
oversize of these holes can be filled later with vinyl-spackle.
17.
From the 3/16" sq. supplied, cut seven pieces about 11-1/2" long and eight
pieces about 6" long. These will be the rear stringers. Trim one of the long pieces
to exactly fit from F-14A to the tail block and glue it into the notches in the center
5
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