Team Black Sheep Mojito User guide

TBS Mojito Revision 2025-02-08

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Forward-swept highly efficient long range FPV Wing

Introducing a new level of flying wing, for advanced long range FPV pilots.

Highly efficient, up to 8S capable, with very long flying times and efficiency rivalling expensive carbon fiber

models. Constructed with FPV in mind and all necessary provisions for the most popular FPV gear.

The model is a complex mixture of plastic injection and foam injection molded parts to maximize efficiency

and allow for mass-production, which makes the model easy to build and affordable to repair.

Table of content

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General

FAQ

Additional 3D printable Parts

INAV Tune

Kit content

Required tools:

General Installation and Information

Connect and detach the Wings and Vertical Stabilizer

Compartments and how to access them

Center of Gravity - CG

Installation

Wing PCB with FC

Servos and air breaks

Motor

ESC - Installation

ESC - Setup

Receiver

Wing Connectors

FPV Gear

LED Strips

Detailed Installation (DIY Kit)

Main Body

Wings

Vertical stabilizer

Additional Information

Elevon Tuning

air break Setup

General

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FAQ

If you have any questions after reading this manual, visit the TBS FAQ section.

Additional 3D printable Parts

If you want to customize your MOJITO wing, several 3D printable parts are available.

From a WING PCB holder to custom nose sections and extra antenna outlets.

INAV Tune

You can find an INAV 7 preset on GitHub.

Kit content

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Both sets, the DIY and the KIT version, come without electronics. We recommend the following parts, some

of which are packed as an “Electronics Package”:

- TBS LUCID F4 FC (or F7 if later available)

- TBS LUCID 3-12S Single ESC

- TBS LUCID WING PCB

- TBS MOJITO Motor (1000KV, 3220)

- TBS MOJITO Servos (2x minimum, 4x if you want to use the air breaks) (23mm wide)

- USB Adapter Cable, 90° connector (for easy FC access), available at TBs

- 8S >1800mAh, 6S >2600mAh Battery

- 8x4.5 or 7x12 Prop

Important note:

Advanced pilots may wish to install electronics in the wing tips. To do that, you need to order the

DIY version. Otherwise, you will not be able to feed any cable there!

Check the installation section for details.

Required tools:

- EPP-safe glue like UHU POOR or CA glue like Multiply Zacki

- Exacto knife (optional)

- Filament tape (about 1m) and double-sided tape (optional)

- Drill bit + respiratory protection (DIY only, to cut a slot in 2 carbon beams if needed, optional)

Overview

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Top View

Bottom View

General Installation and Information

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If you are experienced with building wings and just need the base information or are finished with the

general assembly and gluing, this section is for you.

Connect and detach the Wings and Vertical Stabilizer

To detach the wings, you need to push the quick-release buttons down. If you can't press them in deep

enough, you can use a pencil, screwdriver, etc., to force them deeper until you hear a “pop” sound and the

wings come off easily. Do not pull them with force!

Connecting them is as easy as detaching them. Install the two carbon rods into the main body and slide

the wings on them till the end. When done correctly, the push button will be flush.

When your wing is brand new, you might need to push it a little harder for the button to pop out.

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Two carbon rods reinforce the wings inside. Install them by sliding them into the designated guides.

The stabilizer must be first pushed in at its front, then pushed down. To lock it in place, the screw must be

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installed as well.

Compartments and how to access them

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Center of Gravity - CG

You can feel a protruding line at the bottom about 1cm from the wing's leading edge. This line marks the

CG. Place your fingertips on them, and make sure your MOJITO is leveled. If you want to do proximity

flights, your plane should be slightly nose-heavy for better control in those scenarios.

Installation

Install the FPV gear, the receiver, and other electronics as far apart as possible to avoid interference. Try

moving the unit away if you experience issues with your RC or video link.

Wing PCB with FC

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The Wing kit contains a dedicated PDB that mounts the FC and all the necessary gear cleanly and easily,

providing clean power and minimizing the wiring. Installation can be done with some double-sided tape or

a 3D-printed adapter. If you use a digital FPV system, connect your VTX to a free UART. In the case of an

analog system, connect the WING PCB

dedicated pads as well.

You can connect your Lucid FC directly up to 8S

It is also recommended that some foam be placed over the barometer to avoid false readings when air

passes by in flight.

CAM, VTX, VTX RX (if supported by the VTX), and VTX TX

to the

Servos and Air Breaks

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The Servos are held by the included flat-head screws. No additional glue is needed.

The air break hinge is held by the same type of screw that is holding the servo.

Make sure to adjust the servo limits in your FC software. They should move to their endpoint without

stressing sounds or pushing into the foam. The air break must be flat with the wing surface when not

engaged.

The push rod should be adjusted so that when the servo is centered, the elevon is in one line with the

surrounding edges. This can be achieved by turning the hinges. A spacing of 50 mm is a good starting

point.

Do not use any Locktide on plastic parts!

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Motor

The mount supports Motor bases from 19*19 up to 25*25mm.

Install the Motor with the 4 M3x9 socket head screws. Make sure to install the spacer, as otherwise, the

screws can penetrate the motor windings!

Gently bend the motor cables so they fit into the designated holes.

After assembling the mount, install the motor and its mount on the wing. The circled screw goes through

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the motor mount as well while mainly holding the vertical stabilizer. Make sure it can pass through the

mount after tightening the main screw.

ESC - Installation

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The ESC can be placed in the bay under the stabilizer. To improve cooling, add some of the thermal paste

to the FETs and press the supplied heat sink onto it. To secure it further, add a small stripe of heat shrink

tube or a zip tie around it. Make sure not to over-tighten it.

ESC - Setup

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Stuck Rotor Protection: ON Startup power: 125%

Stall Protection: OFF Motor KV: 1000

Use Hall Sensor: OFF Motor Poles: 14

Variable PWM: ON Beeper Volume: 8

Complementary PWM: ON PWM Frequency: 24-48KHz

Timing advance: 15° Temperature Limit: OFF

Current Limit: 204 Low voltage cutoff: OFF

Break on Stop: On Running Brake Level: 10

Receiver

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The receiver can be installed on the flight controller. The

antenna can be placed inside the special compartment inside the vertical stabilizer.

Alternatively, you can install the receiver into the bay and feed a Cable with a (4 pin) servo connector to the

FC to easily remove the stabilizer with the receiver for transportation.

Crossfire Immortal T Antenna V2 Extra Extended

Wing Connectors

Both wings include a 12-pin connector, allowing for easy disassembling without the need to fiddle around

with servo connectors.

You can use the pins as you like. If you want to use the LED stripes in the wing edge and a VTX, you might

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need to use some pins for multiple devices. For example, using the same pin for 5V and GND for both

servos allows for VTX (with CRSF) and LED, and both servos by just using 12 pins.

FPV Gear

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The nose section can easily be removed by removing the two M3x2 socket head screws on the side and

then pulling it out to the front. When tightening the screws, do not apply too much force to them, as they

just need to hold the cover and are installed into foam.

For the antennas, just poke a small hole through the foam of the main body, about 1-2cm in.

The VTX/ camera holder itself is held by two m3x8 self-attacking socked head screws installed through the

wooden base and into the small bracket.

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LED Strips

The details for installing the LED strips can be found in the assembly part for the wings.

For the control, enable the PINIO function for an available pin (CC - Pin on the LUCID F4) and route the

function to a free channel on your FC.

Detailed Installation (DIY Kit)

Main Body

The main body installation is an easy process, just take your time and make sure to remove excess glue

from any parts to avoid issues. Running a dry fit first is also a good idea to see how parts align before

applying the glue.

Start by installing the main carbon ribbons and the two (shorter) carbon tubes. Push them down firmly

and make sure that the tubes are centered.

Next is the battery bay base plate with the velcro straps and the bungee hook.

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First, install the bungee hook into the plate and secure it with CA glue.

Then, wrap the velcro straps around the base plate and glue the base plate in place. Avoid glue in the

pockets for the velcro strap - that way, it can be replaced later if necessary.

The last step on the bottom is to install the clips for the nose.

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Add glue to the complete surface (red areas) and the carbon parts (green parts) when all parts are

installed. The yellow areas must remain free!

Now press the top half of the main boy onto it and secure it with painter's tape.

Next, the motor mount/ESC bay must be glued in place. When pushing it onto the foam, ensure it is flush

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against it and no gaps are visible. The two halves must fit properly after they are in place. You can clip

together and insert the screw(s) in the back to ensure they are positioned correctly.

After that, the wing connectors are installed in the same manner.

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Wings

Start by installing the main rod.

Important Note:

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If you plan on using the compartment in the wing area, you must drill a hole into the carbon. Otherwise,

the channel (green) for the cable will be blocked and can no longer be opened!

Next, install the servo bay plastic tray, and screw down the servos.

Make sure the surface of the servos (green) is free of glue!

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Details on how to adjust the servo horns can be found here.

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If you plan on using the air breaks, now is a good time to install the plate for them. The plate (red) fits

perfectly into the top wing half's raised borders (green). If you want to, you can install it later as well.

If you don’t (yet) want to use the air breaks, cover the top surface of the air break with some tape to

ensure a flat surface.

Add glue to the wing half (red areas) and push the top part of the wing on it.

At the bottom of the wing are two more spares (1-small, 2-square tube). glue into the two slots and spread

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it with a piece of paper or the spare itself

You need to run a wire from the edge to the wing connector to install the LED strips on the leading edge.

Create a shallow cut for the cable (recommended), or simply press-fit it under the plastic wing connector

and feed it into the servo bay to connect it to the electronic connector.

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For the installation of the LED strip itself, cut the round edge at the notch along the wing front. On the

vertical stabilizer, the surface is already flat. Glue your LED strip on the flat surfaces.

Next, install all the plastic parts in the shown order.

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On the Elevons, make sure the notches align and that you use glue on the whole contact surface.

Vertical stabilizer

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Install the plastic parts of the vertical stabilizer in the shown order.

When just gluing the bottom of the antenna bay cover (3) and then covered by some clear tape or just

slightly glued in on the rest, the cover can be removed to change the antenna or later installation.

Additional Information

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Elevon Tuning

To get your elevons to respond more crisply, you can modify them.

Remove the push rod and cut the factory hinge along the red line.

Install some double-sided tape on both surfaces. The tape must be as wide as half of the final filament

tape. Then, add the filament tape over it while moving the elevon down close to 90° and press it firmly.

Next, repeat the steps on the other side while moving the elevon up as far as possible.

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When down, the elevon should move without resistance. Reconnect the servo link and check the servo

throw and center.

Air break Setup

The air breaks are useful if you want to lower your airspeed, e.g., while landing or doing some proximity

flying. If you plan on using them as a “hand-break”, the servo speed should be high, for a more controlled

engagement, about 1.5-2 seconds is a good starting point.

The installation details can be found here.

Important note:

When engaged, the air breaks causing the plane to dip its nose. If you use a flight controller with a

stabilized flight mode, it will be compensated. Otherwise, you should program a pitch compensation into

your radio model.