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Contents
ANSI / CSA Information......................................................2
11 Chain Care Rules ...........................................................2
It’s Time To Sharpen When ................................................3
Construction of STIHL Saw Chain......................................3
Lubrication ..........................................................................5
Saw Chain Care ..................................................................7
Tensioning Saw Chain.........................................................7
Breaking In Saw Chain .......................................................8
Filing Saw Chain .................................................................8
Guide Bar Care .................................................................11
Drive Sprocket Care..........................................................12
Troubleshooting Chain Wear ............................................13
Special Cold Weather Care...............................................17
File Recommendations.....................................................18
Important Information
Any chain saw, no matter what make, is only as good
as its saw chain. Never ignore chain maintenance – if you
do, poor cutting is just one result. An improperly cared for
chain will eventually ruin the bar, the sprocket and other
engine parts. Poorly maintained chain is also a potential
safety hazard, since it can contribute to a reaction known
as “kickback” (see page 17 for definition and hints on
how to reduce the risk of kickback).
Keeping a chain in good repair will save both money
and cutting time.
This brochure is designed to cover only chain, bar
and sprocket maintenance. For general chain saw
care, always refer to your Owner’s Manual and your
servicing chain saw dealer.
This listing of trademarks is subject to change. Any unauthorized
use of these trademarks without the express written consent of
ANDREAS STIHL AG & Co. KG,
Wailblingen is strictly prohibited.
The following trademarks used in
this booklet are among those
owned by ANDREAS STIHL AG &
Co. KG, Waiblingen
STIHL’s Registered Trademarks
1. STIHL
®
2.
3.
4. The color combinations
®
(U.S. Registrations #2,821,860;
3,010,057; and 3,010,058)
5. OILOMATIC
®
6. STIHL DUROMATIC
®
7. STIHL Farm Boss
®
8. STIHL Quickstop
®
9. STIHL ROLLOMATIC
®
10. STIHL WOOD BOSS
®
STIHL’s Common Law
Trademarks
11. Bioplus
™
12. Easy2Start
™
13. ElastoStart
™
14. Ematic
™
15. IntelliCarb
™
16. Master Control Lever
™
17. Micro
™
18. Pro Mark
™
19. Quad Power
™
20. STIHL Arctic
™
21. STIHL Compact
™
22. STIHL Magnum
™
23. STIHL MiniBoss
™
24. STIHL PICCO
™
25. STIHL RAPID
™
STIHL Sharp Advice rdsp 110606 11/6/06 4:16 PM Page 3
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It’s Time To Sharpen when …
• The saw does not cut in a straight line.
• The cutters are not properly sharpened.
• The chain chatters and jumps - the depth gauge needs
adjustment.
• You are getting fine sawdust instead of wood chips.
Construction of STIHL Saw Chain
STIHL saw chains are 3-link
chains and are always
assembled in the same
basic pattern. The
illustration shows the
component parts of
a typical chain.
The important characteristics which
define a chain are the chain pitch, drive
link gauge and chain length.
Pitch is the distance between the centers
of any three rivets and dividing the
measurement by two. The result is the
pitch in inches (e.g. 3/8”). The pitch size in
inches is stamped on each depth gauge.
Drive link gauge As the engine turns the
sprocket, it engages the drive links and
propels the chain. The drive link must
match the width of the guide bar groove
so that the chain exactly fits the bar. This
measurement is quoted in inches or
millimeters of the thickness of the bottom
of the drive link. There are chains with
drive link gauges of .043” (1.1 mm), .050”
(1.3 mm), .058” (1.5 mm) and .063” (1.6
mm). The last digit of the measurement in
millimeters is stamped on every drive link.
Pitch a/2
Drive link gauge
Bar groove width
2
The occurrence called “kickback” can cause serious
or fatal injuries. Always read your Owner’s Manual
carefully before using your saw. In the U.S.A., STIHL has
developed a color code system using green and yellow to
help you select a powerhead, bar and chain combination
that complies with the kickback requirements of ANSI
Standard B 175.1. Ask your STIHL dealer about safe
operating procedures and the advantages of the STIHL
Quickstop®chain brake, STIHL reduced kickback bars,
and STIHL low kickback saw chains.
In Canada, STIHL saw chain meets kickback
requirements of CSA Standard Z62.3 M1990 when tested
on a representative sample of chain saws.
Chain Care Rules
1. Avoid hitting dirt, rocks or any other abrasive material
while cutting.
2. Check the chain tension often. Never allow the chain
to sag. (See page 7).
3. Never force a dull chain to cut; it increases the risk of
injury and will damage the bar and chain.
4. Never install a new chain without replacing a worn
sprocket.
5.
Always sharpen cutters to correct angles. (See pages 8-9).
6. Measure the depth gauges with every sharpening;
lower and re-profile as necessary. (See page 10).
7.
Check the entire chain often for visible wear or damage.
(See pages 13-16 for common wear problems).
8. Check the depth of the bar groove for proper drive
link clearance, examine the bar rails for even wear,
and clean bar groove.
9. Always wear gloves when handling chain.
10. Keep scabbard on the bar when the saw is not in use.
11. Make sure that your chain is always properly
lubricated. (See page 6).
Important Information
STIHL Sharp Advice rdsp 110606 11/6/06 4:16 PM Page 5
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5
In General:
Saw chain revolves around the bar at approximately
50 feet per second, depending on engine type, size and
bar length. That means extreme friction wherever any
two parts rub: rivets against drive links, tie straps against
drive links, drive links against cutters, and the entire chain
against the guide bar. Without proper lubrication between
the friction faces, the parts will rapidly deteriorate and
eventually wear themselves out.
All STIHL chain saws have chain oiling systems.
Some are automatic and some are adjustable automatic.
With either the oil is pumped into the bar groove, where
it is “scooped” up by the passing drive link.
The Advantages of OILOMATIC®Chain:
STIHL saw chain has the patented OILOMATIC
®
system. An oil channel incorporated into each drive link
allows the oil to flow directly between the friction faces
and lubricate the most critical flexing components.
OILOMATIC®means longer life for both the bar and the
chain, and also less frequent sharpening.
A further development of the OILOMATIC®system is
the oil reservoir
next to the channel
on 3/8” extended
pitch, .325” .063”,
3/8” .063 chain
provides more oil
to distribute along
the chain groove
and guide rails as
the chain travels
along the bottom
of the bar.
Lubrication
4
Chain length depends on the length of the bar and is
measured by drive links. Each STIHL bar has the number
of required drive links stamped into the tail of the bar.
Tie straps connect the cutters and the drive links
together with rivets. A tie strap with rivets already
mounted is called a preset tie strap.
Cutters: Each cutter has the cutting edge itself and the
ramp in front of the cutting edge, called the depth
gauge, which leads the cutter into the wood and
determines how large a “bite” the cutter will take. If the
depth gauge is too high, the chain will cut very slowly; if
the depth gauge is too low, the cutter will grab too much
wood and jam, perhaps causing kickback. On saw chains,
cutters are positioned so that each right-hand cutter
alternates with a left-hand cutter.
1 = basic tooth body
2 = top plate
3 = depth gauge
4 = side plate cutting edge
5 = top plate cutting edge
STIHL Sharp Advice rdsp 110606 11/6/06 4:16 PM Page 7
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7
Tensioning Saw Chain
Never attempt to adjust the tension while the engine
is running.
The chain on sprocket nose bars can be tensioned
slightly tighter than chains on solid nose bars.
Chain should not be tight when you’re done cutting,
since the chain will “shrink” as it cools off. Loosen it
slightly, so it doesn’t tighten on the bar.
Wearing work gloves, loosen bar mounting nuts
enough for the nose of the bar to slightly move up and
down.
Hold up the nose of the bar. Tighten the chain
adjusting screw until the chain will move freely without
binding when pulled by hand.
To make sure no kinks are in the chain, snap it by
pulling it out from the bar and letting go. Then check the
tension again. Lift the chain from the top middle of the
bar. The drive links should remain in the bar groove.
Retighten bar mounting nuts while still holding up the
bar nose, and then make a final tension check.
®
®
Saw Chain Care
6
Perform a lubrication checkup:
Check the oil level every time you refuel
the engine.
To check chain lubrication before
and during cutting, position the bar
nose over a light background (tree
stump, sawdust, etc.), and run the
engine at half throttle, making sure it
throws out an increasing trace of oil.
Be careful not to allow the tip of the
bar to contact any surface. If you
do, kickback may result.
Keep the oil inlet
holes and bar groove
open and free
from dirt.
Use STIHL Bar & Chain Oil:
Some people try to get away with using old engine oil
or other oil not designed for bar and chain lubrication.
STIHL bar and chain oil has special additives that help it
adhere to the bar and chain, as well as keep tree pitch
from gumming up moving parts. There are also
formulations for working in cold conditions.
STIHL Sharp Advice rdsp 110606 11/6/06 4:16 PM Page 9
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Instructions:
File your chain
frequently, yet take away
as little material as
possible each time. If the
chain is damaged, file
back beyond the
damaged area.
Sharpening cutters. Start by finding the cutter with the
shortest top length (the “master cutter”). Sharpen it to
the correct angle and then file all the other cutters to
match its length. (Use a caliper to measure the cutters.)
File all the cutters on one side of the chain first, then
file the cutters facing the opposite direction.
When filing the cutter, be sure to use a round file and
always direct it from the inside to the outside of the
cutter. (That is, sharpen only on the forward stroke – lift
the file off during the backward stroke.)
Looking toward the end of
the bar
Looking at the top of the bar
Push File
Push File
8
Breaking In Saw Chain
Even though STIHL OILOMATIC®saw chain is prestretched at the factory, new saw chain needs a first run
just to “break in.” The break-in smooths out tiny
irregularities on the friction faces and allows the chain to
properly “seat” the rivets. The tension should be
readjusted just before the chain actually goes to work.
Run the saw at low speed for approximately three
minutes. If your automatic oiler is adjustable, initially
increase the flow for a short time.
Sharpening Saw Chain
Trying to cut wood with a dull chain means a loss of
power and cutting speed, higher fuel consumption, an
excessive rate of wear on the guide bar, the sprocket,
and the engine, and fatigue for the operator.
A properly sharpened chain will “feed” itself into a
cut when only slight pressure is applied. If a chain has to
be forced into a cut by bearing down on the saw, the
cutters either are too dull or have been damaged. Dull
chain is also evident when only fine sawdust is pulled
from the cut, rather than chips of wood.
Make sure your chain is always correctly tensioned if
you sharpen it on the saw. It is difficult to accurately file a
loose chain.
Use only the correct file size, guide, and file gauges
recommended for specific types of chain. See the chart
in the back of this booklet.
Always file to the correct angles recommended for
specific types of chain.
Have your chain resharpened by a servicing dealer
after sharpening it about five times yourself. Even
with the correct hand tools, you run the risk of filing
incorrect angles. A dealer has the equipment to precisely
file chain, and a professional sharpening will make the
chain last longer.
STIHL Sharp Advice rdsp 110606 11/6/06 4:16 PM Page 11
Page 6
Guide Bars
In General:
Guide bars wear down faster
where most of the cutting is done
– on the underside of the bar. You
should check there often for bent
or worn guide rails and cracked,
burred edges. Badly damaged
bars must be replaced. With
proper lubrication and light filing,
you can prevent most damage
and make the bar last longer.
Instructions:
Clean the bar grooves often.
Whenever you remove the bar,
turn it over so that it will wear
down evenly.
Check the groove depth after a
bar has been used for a while. Old
guide bar rails wear down and the
groove can become too shallow
for drive links to pass through
without scraping. On solid nose
bars, measure the groove depth
where the heaviest cutting is
done. On sprocket nose bars,
measure the depth at the nose. If
the depth is less than it should be,
the nose should be replaced.
Check often to make sure that
the tie straps are riding evenly on
the guard rails.
Lightly file burrs to remove
them.
Appearance
a) Evenly worn bar
rails - minimum depth
has been reached.
b) Unevenly worn bar
rails.
Appearance
Splayed bar rails
(groove spread).
Appearance
Pinched bar groove.
ab
11
Guide Bar Care
Filing depth gauges. Check the depth gauge for the
correct height every time you sharpen the cutters.
If the depth gauge sticks up above the filing gauge,
first file it level with a flat file. Then make sure that all the
other depth gauges are filed to the same height. Finally,
slightly file each leading edge to round the corner back to
its original shape.
Use a depth gauge tool for accurate measurement and filing. These tools, to fit different gauges of saw chain, are
available from your STIHL dealer.
10
STIHL Sharp Advice rdsp 110606 11/6/06 4:16 PM Page 13
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13
Following are some of the most common problems.
Condition:
Damaged top and/or side on cutter. Chain won’t cut
straight.
Cause:
Cutter has hit material other than wood.
Remedy:
File cutter to remove the damage. File other cutters to
same size.
Condition:
Cutter angle blunt on top edge or sloping back on side
edge. Chain must be forced to cut.
Cause:
File too large or held too high.
Remedy:
File to correct angle with proper file.
Troubleshooting Chain Wear
12
Drive sprockets must always match the chain
which is being used. A servicing dealer is best
equipped to match and replace corresponding chains
and sprockets.
If the wear marks on the
sprocket are significantly more
than .02 inch or .5 mm, you
should replace the sprocket.
Never install a new chain on
a worn sprocket. A well-caredfor sprocket will usually last
through two chains.
TIP:
A general rule of thumb is to
replace one sprocket for every
two chains, one bar for every
two sprockets and every four
chains (4=2=1).
4 chains
2 sprockets
1 bar
Appearance
Excessive wear
on teeth.
Drive Sprocket Care
STIHL Sharp Advice rdsp 110606 11/6/06 4:16 PM Page 15
Page 8
15
Condition:
Damage or broken drive link tangs.
Cause:
Chain runs too loose or has “jumped off” bar.
Remedy:
File off burrs. Tighten chain tension. Replace broken
parts if damaged too much to file.
Condition:
Front or back of drive link peened (battered around the
edge).
Cause:
Worn sprocket.
Remedy:
Replace sprocket. If heavily damaged, replace chain.
14
Condition:
Hook in side cutting edge or top cutting edge
feathered. Cutters dulling quickly.
Cause:
File held too low or diameter of file too small.
Remedy:
File to correct angle with proper file.
Condition:
Blunt depth gauge. Chain cuts rough.
Cause:
Improperly filed depth gauge.
Remedy:
Round off front edge of depth gauge to original shape
and check height.
STIHL Sharp Advice rdsp 110606 11/6/06 4:16 PM Page 17
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17
Special Cold Weather Care
If a chain is tensioned in very cold weather, it will sag
when it reaches the normal operating temperature. Always
keep the chain tension tight while cutting and loosen it
after operation, or it will cool, contract and break, possibly
damaging the bar, the crankshaft, and the bearings.
At extremely low temperatures, normal chain oil will
“set” (become too thick to flow). A winter grade bar and
chain oil may be used.
Increase the oil flow while cutting in cold weather.
Cutting frozen wood increases friction on both the cutters
and tie straps, and can cause them to crack.
WARNING
Kickback
Kickback may occur when the moving saw chain near
the upper quadrant of the bar nose contacts a solid
object or is pinched. The reaction of the cutting force
of the chain causes a rotational force on the chain saw
in the direction opposite to the chain movement. This
may fling the bar up and back in an uncontrolled arc
mainly in the plane of the bar. Under some cutting
circumstances the bar moves towards the operator,
who may suffer severe or fatal injury.
To reduce the risk of kickback:
• Hold the chain saw firmly with both hands.
• Don’t overreach.
• Don’t let the nose of the guide bar contact a log, a
branch, the ground, or any other obstruction.
• Cut at high engine speeds.
• Don’t cut above shoulder height.
• Follow manufacturer’s sharpening and maintenance
instructions for the saw chain.
• Use devices such as low kickback chain, which may
help to reduce the hazards associated with kickback.
16
Condition:
Peening or premature flattening on bottom of cutters
and tie straps.
Cause:
Loose chain tension. Dull cutters. Lack of lubrication.
Chain has been forced to cut.
Remedy:
Chain must be replaced if badly worn. Check chain
tension and cutter sharpness more frequently.
Condition:
Burring and peening in notch of tie strap.
Cause:
Worn chain sprocket.
Remedy:
Replace sprocket and chain.
STIHL Sharp Advice rdsp 110606 11/6/06 4:16 PM Page 19
Page 10
19
Filing Gauge
1 =
85° sighting edge for Micro™ cutter (RM, PM, PMN)
2 = 60° sighting edge for Super cutter (RS)
3 = 80° sighting edge for special ripping chain
4 = Sighting edge for 30° filing angle
5 = Sighting edge for 35° filing angle
6 = Sighting edge for 10° filing angle
7 = Cut-out for depth gauge setting
8 = Bar groove cleaner and scale for groove depth (mm)
18
File Recommendations
Chain Type File File Profile
1/4” STIHL Rapid™ Micro™ 5/32” Round
(4.0 mm)
3/8” STIHL Picco™ Micro™ 5/32” Round
Narrow (4.0 mm)
3/8” STIHL Picco™ Micro™ 5/32” Round
(4.0 mm)
.325” STIHL Rapid™ Micro™ or 3/16” Round
STIHL Rapid™ Super (4.8 mm)
3/8” STIHL Rapid™ Micro™ or 13/64” Round
STIHL Rapid™ Super (5.2 mm)
.404” STIHL Rapid™ Micro™ or 7/32” Round
STIHL Rapid™ Super (5.5 mm)
3/8” STIHL Rapid™ Super Tapered or
Square Ground Triangular
.404” STIHL Rapid™ Super Tapered or
Square Ground Triangular
Depth Gauge File Flat
STIHL Sharp Advice rdsp 110606 11/6/06 4:16 PM Page 21
Page 11
21
Date of Chain, Sprocket
and Bar Replacement
Chain Chain Sprocket Bar
20
Notes
STIHL Sharp Advice rdsp 110606 11/6/06 4:16 PM Page 23
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