Page 1
OWNER'S
OPERATING
AND
MAINTENANCE
MANUAL
U/
1/
■r-»
MODEL
616
Page 2
INDEX
Pages
Accessories-..................................................23
How to Use............................................24
Hemmers
...............................................
25
Seam Gauge or Cloth Guide ...............26
Quilting Guide ......................................26
Attachments
.................................................
34
Adjustable Cord and Zipper Foot 40
Attachment Foot...................................35
Binder
..................................................
37
Edgestitcher..........................................35
Hemmers
.........................................
38-39
Rüffler....................................................42
Blind Stitching............................................... ^ g
Bobbin
Placing in Shuttle
.................................
7
Threading............................................... 6
Winding
Buttonholes
Buttons Sew-On
..................................................
...................................................
............................................
5
20
22
Charts
Needle-Thread-Fabric-Stifching
...........
4
Pages
Stitch Length
.........................................
Trouble........................................30-31-32
Darning and Mending...................................11
Elastic or Multiple Zigzag
Stitches
........
19
Embroidery
Creative
...............
-— .............................14
Hoop......................................................15
Features and Parts (Front View) .................. 2
(Back View)
Installation-Head in Cabinet
........................
.............
3
50
Head in Portable Case.............48
Maintenance and Care
..................................
27
Cleaning and Oiling the Shuttle •••28
Needle Setting •••
pressure and Feeding of Fabric
Thin and Light weight Fabrics
Reverse Sewing
Sewing Preparation
...........................................
.................
...........
................:............................
.......................................
6
11
11
1 2
Sewing Tips..............................................44-45
Straight Stitching..........................................13
Tension Adjustment
.....................................
10
Threading-Upper............................................ 8
9
9
Page 3
NEEDLE-THREAD-FABRIC-STITCHING GUIDE
Fabric
Extremely heavy
tarpaulin, sacking,
canvas, duck, etc.
Heavy upholstery
fabric, ticking,
denim, leatherette
Medium heavy drapery
fabric, velveteen,
suiting, felt, terry, etc.
Medium broadcloth,
percale, gingham, linen,
chintz, taffeta, sheer
wool, shantung, etc.
Sheer voile, lawn,
dimity, crepe,
handkerchief linen,
plastic film, etc.
Very sheer chiffon,
batiste, lace, organdy,
ninon, net, marquisett, etc.
Need le
4
3 (18)
2 (16)
1 (14)
0 (11)
00
No.
Machine
Stitches
Per Inch
6
to
8
8
to
10
10
to
12
12
to
14
14
to
16 100
(Plastic film)
8 to 10
16
to
20
Cotton
Thread
10
to
30
30
to
40
40
to
60
60
to
80
80
to
100
to
150
Mercerized
Thread
Heavy Duty
Heavy Duty
Heavy Duty
50
50
50
Silk
or
Nylon
J
Page 4
Fig. 3
WINDING THE BOBBIN
toward ^rom ihe slifching mechanism by Kjrning clutch (6, Fig.3)
Quide on arm°' on one of the spool pins. Lead thread through the upper thread
you or counter clockwise.
an own through tension disc(9. Fig. 5,)at base of machine. Run end of thread
through a hole in bobbin edge (left fbnge
and from inside out) and place bobbin 0.on
spindle of bobbin winder (7, Fig. 4,) fitting
the notch bobbin over small pin on spindle.
Push bobbin winder against hand wheel.
Hold thread end loosely and start machine
slow ly.
Bobbin will stop winding when it is filled.
Turn clutch away from you until sewing
mechanism is again engaged so that needle
moves when you turn the hand wheel.
Break off loose thread end used to start
the winding and thread bobbin as slated on
Page 6.
Page 5
SETTING THE NEEDLE
See Fig. 6. Raise the needle bar to its highest
point, turning wheel toward you by hand.
Then loosen the needle clamp screw B and the
needle can be inserted into clamp C. Place needle
(flot side . lo right) in the needle clamp and push it
upward as far as it will go into the needle clamp
hole, tightening the needle clamp screw securely with'
a screw driver.
After changing the needle make one com
plete revolution of the balance wheel by hand pj
to be sure the needle is in the correct ^
position.
Fig. 6
Flat ^rlace
oi needle
shank
i]/
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE
Step 1 (illustrated in Fig. 8). Hold bobbin case between thumb and forefinger of left hand
so that the slot in the edge of the bobbin case is on top. Take the bobbin between thumb and’
forefinger of right hand so that the thread on top leads from left to right.
Step 2. Insert bobbin into bobbin case, pull the thread into the slot of the bobbin case as
shown in Fig. 9. and draw it under tension spring and into the fork-shaped opening of the spring
as shown in Fig. 10.
Page 6
SLOT
TENSION SPRING
SLOT
Fig. 8
Fig. 9
placing bobbin case in shuttle
Raise needle bar to highest position, and slide cover plate
F' Hold the bobbin cose latch, (D,
•9- etween the thumb and forefinger of the left hand,
ih k •tiree inches of thread running from the top of
me bobbin case to the right. Insert and center the bobbin
a e on the stud of the shuttle body, (C). Be sure the
Pre,opposite the shuttle race notch (A).
fl
I » L °
I” Case (B) into the shuttle as far as possible
reeJ^ t THEN
after I t k i'” latch, (D). Press bobbin case again
is lo released to make sure the' bobbin case
locked securely in place. Close the cover plate.
Fig. 10
Page 7
UPPER THREADING
1. Turn the hand wheel toward you to raise the
take-up lever to its highest position.
2. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin
3. lead the thread through the upper arm thread
guides.
4. Run the thread through the thread guide bar to
the tension discs, then around and between them
from right to left.
5. Draw the thread up through the check spring
and with a slight tug into the hook, (See insert
Fig. 12)
6. Pass the thread under the bar and up through
the eye of the take-up lever from right to left.
7. Lead thread down under bar, through the face
plate guides and then through the needle bar
guide from the back.
8. Thread needle FROM LEFT TO RIGHT, drawing
it through about 3 or 4 inches. Hold the end
of the upper thread loosely and turn the hand
wheel toward you until the needle goes all the
way down and comes back up. A loop (Fig
13) will be formed over the upper thread which
L " straight. Place both
thread ends under the slot of the presser foot
and draw toward the back of the machine, leav
ing both threads three or four inches long
THREAD.
lUIDES
St
Vf
Fifl. 12
ir
b
Page 8
m
i
D
IH
X
■ t
i
Fig. 13
Fig. 14
SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH
stitclT stilch is regulated by control 16 Fig. 14. Near 0 is the shortest
SIC an 5 is the longest, but the control may be set at any spot between the markings for a
vane y ot lengths. Turn the knob to the right to lengthen and to 'the left to shorten the stitch,
e number stitch length you choose is indicated by the pointer.
STITCH LENGTH CHART (APPROXIMATE)
Figures on indicator
Number of stitches per inch
0
No Feeding
30
1
25
2
. 3
15
4
8
5
6
SEWING IN REVERSE
When you wish to sew backward to lie the threads at the beginning or end of a seam, press
m e button (15 Fig. 14) as far as it will go. The machine will sew backward as long as the
button IS held in.
Page 9
10
ADJUSTING THE TENSIONS
Always adjust the upper tension with the presser foot down,
as the tension is released when it is raised. To increase the'
tension on the upper thread, turn dial (Fig. 15) to the right, or
clockwise; to decrease, turn to the left. The higher the nun^ber
on the dial the tighter the tension. Before adjusting lower tension
be sure that the machinp is threaded properly.
When it is necessary to change the bobbin tension, turn the
small screw (Fig. 17) on side of the bobbin case clockwise to tighten
counterclockwise to loosen.
Fig. 16 A
When the upper and under tensions are properly
balanced, a perfect stitch will be formed with both
threads interlocking in fabric (Fig. 16-A)
When the upper tension is too light, the lower
thread is pulled up over the upper thread which is
lying flat on the fabric (Fig. 16-B)
When the upper tension is too loose, the upper
thread forms loops over the lower thread lying flat
on the fabric (Fig. 16-C).
Fig. 16 B
G
bar
the
SI
V
silk
dov
20)
the
red
Fig. 16-C
B
Page 10
ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND FEEDING OF FABRIC
GENERAL SEWING. Usually for si raight sewing and various embroidery work, the pressure
bar cap or darning release (Fig. 19) is at its lowest position and the feed at its highest level-wilh
the drop feed button marked UP pressed all the way down. (Fig. 18)
SEWING THIN OR LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS
when lighter pressure is required to sew satisfactorily on thin
silk or flimsy material, the pressure cap should be about halfway
down. Release all the way by pressing the snap lock (A, Fig.
20) and then press cap B down again to half-way spot. Lower
the feed slightly by pressing the DOWN button (Fig. 18) to the
red line. Fig. 18
DARNING AND MENDING
In order to move the fabric freely in any
direction for darning and mending, release
the pressure cap B completely by pressing
down on the snap lock (A, Fig. 20). Press
DOWN button (Fig. 18) all the way down,
which drops the feed well below the needle
Fig. 19
plate. To return feed to normal, press the
UP button all the way down.
rig 20
) 1
Page 11
I >
PREPARING TO SEW
Have Itike-up lever at highest point before starting to sew. Do not try to help the feeding
by pulling the material as this may deflect the needle and cause it to break.
NEVER run machine without material under presser foot.
place material and threads in position under the presser foot and lower the presser foot. You
ate now ready to begin sewing. By having the needle at its highest point, it is not necessary
to touch the hand wheel to start the machine. You merely press the control. The ispeed of the
tnachine is regulated by increasing or decreasing the amount of pressure exerted on the control.
REMOVING THE WORK
Be sure to stop the machine
when the thread take-up lever and
needle bar are at the highest po
sition.
Now raise the presser foot and
draw the fabric back and to the
left (Fig. 21, B) and pass
the threads over the thread cutter.
Pull down slightly, holding thread
in both hands, so as not to bend
the needle.
Leave the ends of thread under
21-A
the presser foot.
Fig. 21-B
Page 12
STRAIGHT STITCHING
For straight sewing on fine fabric or very soft material
'he stra,ght stitch needle plate which are included in your
accessory ox. Both have narrow needle slots.
Changing the Presser Foot and Needle Plate-
(1) Presser Foot
(A) Loosen thumb screw (22, Fig. 1) and remove
zigzag presser foot.
(B) Replace with straight stitch presser foot (Fig
22 A)
(2) Needle Plate
(A) Slide cover plate (21. Fig. 1) to the left as far
os possible.
(B) Rernove screws holding needle plate (19, Fig. 1)
io bed plate.
(C) Remove zigzag needle plate.
D) Replace with straight stitch needle plate (Fig
22 B) s a-
Re
kbuttonhole control
or I e needle will break in striking the foot or
13
[jy -2-3;4^
ZIGZAG INDICATOR
^ Turn knob "B" (F,g. 23) to the left os far as it will go
set zigzag width control "A ” at 0 position.
Page 13
M
CREATIVE EMBROIDERY
Th(
le satin stitch (Fig. 24) which is really just a very
short zigzag stitch and the basis for most embroidery, is
obtained by setting stitch length control (see page 9)
as near 0 as possible without stopping the feeding action
and zigzag width at. 5, (Fig. 23).
To stitch continuously at one width of zigzag stitching, set
zigzag width stop (B. Fig. 23) to chosen stitch width number.
With the machine set for a short stitch length, different
designs can be made by turning the zigzag width control
knob bock and forth between 0 and 5 or any other
combination of widths. Try setting the stop (B, Fig. 23)
at I and various other numbers.
Set a rhythm for yourself and then proceed. After
a while you will become quite skillful, varying your designs
by the speed of the machine, stitch length, and manipulation
of the zigzag control knob.
Be sure zigzag presser foot and zigzag needle plate are in glace
'/I
Hi lUWU wm uiM wu uiiit uut uuu uumi uiu
jiilffUntmi (mn jlmwi ßmt mill JmlLlflim.
widilillllllil til fcMMiti tl h>in
mt
Fig. ,24
SAMPLES OF CREATIVE EMBROIDERY
Fig. 25
A. Sew a few stitches at 5 width, then allow knob
to spring back to 0 for a short period. Count, if necessary,
to establish a rhythm.
B. Set stop at 2 then move knob slowly back and forth between numbers 2 and 5.
C. Set stop at 1. Gradually move knob from 1 to 5, allowing it to snap back quickly.
D. Set zigzag stitch width stop at 4, stitch length at il^. Do a few zigzag stitches, drop
feed for 3 or 4 stitches, then raiser it again. By operating the feed knob rhythmically it is not
necessary to count stitches.
Fig. 25
St
Lc
in.
tf
di
P
f<
Oi
m
h.
tf
P
ai
Page 14
E. Drop feed, set stitch width lock at 5, take 3 or 4 stitches, leave needle in fabric left of
stitches. Pivot fabric on needle to make next daisy petal. Continue until flower design is complete.
Lock threads by setting stitch width at 0 and taking 3 or 4 stitches in center of design.
EMBROIDERING WITH A HOOP
It is easy to follow a stamped design or to
work free hand when embroidering or monogram-
h'9- 26). Release the pressure from
the foot by pressing down on the snap lock ring
way.
Stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop, and
place under the needle after removing the pressef
°°1 I stitch width at the size you prefer
is ^1 rl encounter skip stitches, the fabric is not stretched tight enough or a darning spring
i
darner. Push the drop feed button down all the
and lower the presser bar lifter. Then operate the
me at a rather high speed while moving the
the *^ne^edT^ '^'•h both hands. Work carefully and be sure to keep fingers out of the path of
IcJ
(see attachments available from your dealer illustrated in the back of this book),
darn or monogram without hoop
15
place^r*^! '^°''n or monogram without embroidery hoop, leave zigzag presser foot in
j. ^ l’ ® a pressure on presser foot, set stitch length at 0, set zigzag stitcl» width to suit,
^^eave teed in sewing position,
^ K L ornirig or monograming in this manner, the fabric must be held taut or skipped slitrfies
'"III be encountered
Page 15
DECORATIVE STITCH DESIGN PATTERNS
To sow the decorative design patterns illustrated on the Decorative Stitch Dial (5 Fig. 27)' set
the machine as follows;
(1) Move release lever 4 to the right and latch
(2) Select desired pattern by turning knob 6 so that indicator 10 points to pattern selected.
(3) Unlatch lever 4 and move back its left hand position
(4) Set zigzag width control 9 at 0 t
(5) Set buttonhole (ever 11 (Fig. 28) at 0
(6) Set stitch length control 16 (Fig. l) as near 0 as possible without stopping the feeding
action for best appearance.
(7) For changes in selected design move needle positioning lever 7 to its different positions
(L-C-R) ^
ELASTIC DECORATIVE STITCHES ZIGZAG INDICATOR
Fig. 27
Page 16
_ELASTIC-DECORATI\I^TITCHES ZIGZAG INDICATOR BUTTONHOlJ
elastic and multiple zigzag stitch designs
To sdeci desired design as illustrated by 5 (Fig. 28) set machine as follows:
1 Move release lever 4 to the right and latch
(3) Unlatch pattern by turning knob 6 so that indicator 10 points to pattern selected
U Unlatch lever 4 and return to its left hand position
5 t """die position lever 7 in its “L” position for best results
iet buttonhole control 1 1 at 0
17
To '"'"o ’>
control lO iFir"]'! "’"’T T'Ocog width indicator u at 2 and stitch length
as cose to 0 as possible without stopping the feeding action.
Page 17
BLIND STITCH HEM
Use sicindard zigzag foot and needle plate
(1)
Set stitch length control 16 (Fig. 1) at number 3 or 4
(2)
Set machine to sew blind hem (See page 16)
(3)
Set needle position control 7 (Fig. 27) at right hand position
(4)
Set buttonhole control 11 (Fig. 28) at 0 position
(5)
Set zigzag width control 9 (Fig. 27) at 0 position
Blind Hemming.
Blind stitch hems provide a durable hem finish that is almost
invisible and comparable to hand sewing.
Prepare the garment in the same manner as for hand hemming.
STEP
1
Step 1. If hem with folded edge is used make first fold deep.
Step. 2. Turn hem to the depth desired and baste K" from upper edge. Press in place.
Step 3. Fold hem back toward right side of garment leaving extended.
Step 4. Place garment under presser foot and sew blind hem.
STEP
2
STEP
3
STEP
4
COMPLETED
Page 18
f"'
"'i
J
'■
19
ELASTIC OR MULTIPLE ZIGZAG STITCHES
/
<
>
<
>
<
>
<
>
<
>
Fig. 30
<
>
/
Use when applying elastic waist bands
<
<
to skirts and dresses. Be sure to
>
stretch the elastic as it is applied, to
insure fullness required in the garment.
>
<
>
<
>
<
>
<
\
There are hundreds of other uses for these stitch designs which wi
apparent as you use the machine.
The multiple zigzag stitch and the serpentine stitch
are the best for sewing on stretch fabrics.
Use when replacing worn blanket bindings as
they afford both a decorative and durable
finish.
II b
e come
Page 19
20
BUTTONHOLES
To establish the correct length buttonhole required add H
inch to the Cutting space for bar tacks.
To obtain the length of the cutting space, the opening
through which the button passes is measured by adding
the width “a” and thickness “b” of the button (Fig. 32-A).
First mark the beginning and end of the buttonhole on
the fabric with a basting line or tailor’s chalk. Make one
or two buttonholes on scrap fabric (following directions
below) to be sure the machines adjustments
(1) Set zigzag stitch width control at 0.
(2) Replace presser foot with special purpose buttonhole
foot. It provides maximum visibility and allows closely
spaced stitches to feed evenly (Fig. 32).
(3) Set stitch length knob 16 (Fig. 1) as near 0 as possible
without stopping the feeding action.
(4) Set buttonhole control lever 11 (Fig. 33) at 0 and then to
the first buttonhole setting, between numbers 1 and 3.
This will set the width of the buttonhole sides.
(5) Lower needle carefully into the mark on the fabric
indicating the start of the buttonhole.
Lower presser foot and sew. full length of left hand
side of the buttonhole (Fig.32-B, Step 1).
ore
correct.
Fig 32-B
Page 20
(6) Move buttonhole control os for to the right os possible. It will then latch into
position for bar tacking. Sew four or five stitches. Step 2.
( ) Push buttonhole control down slightly and manually move to position between
Numbers I and 3, being sure it is against the Slop.
will set the machine to sew in reverse. Sew right hand side of buttonhole.
(8) Move buttonhole control as far to the right as possible, it will then latch into
position for bar lack. Sew four or five stitches. Step 4.
ul onhole control at 0 position, extreme left, and lake two or three stitches to
fasten bar lack to prevent ravelling.
(10) Cut the buttonhole opening with seam ripper, being careful not to cut the stitching.
If you plan to make buttonholes on
sheer or soft material, place tarlatan or
paper under fabric which can be lorn
away after stitching.
When making additional buttonholes,
I
i
4i|yTT0NH0LE
be sure to turn the buttonhole control
knob to 0 and back to the number I
position to pul the machine in lotwcitrl
stitching.
21
Page 21
SEWING ON BUTTONS
t>l Remove p„„er loo, „„d „p|„c. wi,h b„,lo„ ,ew,„g ,oo,
\riQ. j4)
(2) Push drop feed button “DOWN" oil the way (Fig.38)
OJ Set zigzag width control 6 (Fig. 1) at Q
¡4) Se, needle position control 7 (Fig. 1) ot L position
(s; Set machine at M position (See Page 16)
(6) Place ballon >o ihe bole on ihe lef, bond ide d direcly „„der
Ibe needle (F.g^ 35). iben gonily lower ibe prerser fool (Fig 36)
ver Ibe „gblhond bole ,n ihe buMon. Tarn bond wheel slowly
t)y nancl to o© Sure iHe needle entor« k t • i •
ir. . .. ^ neeaie enters both holes tn button without
deflecting needle, correct width if necessary
"-die goes in|^o the center of each hole, run the machine
ot medium speed making six or eight stitches, stopping with the
needle m the left hole.
(9) To lock the zigzag stitch and prevent ravelling, set the stitch
width at 0, and take a few stitches in the same hole If you
wish you may place a rounded toothpick over the button, between
the two holes, and sew button to fabric in reguhr way
Remove the toothpick and wind thread under the button, forming
a shank to fasten. ^
ApjTly the above method to sew on buttons with four holes hooks
and snaps, etc. If a four hole button is to be sewn, follow the
same procedure above for the two hole button
Now bl, pre„.r foo, digbdy and move Fabric ,o perm,, .,i,cbl„g
fR (f'9. 1) am,I needle co„,e, down'ejclly
labnc W.lh Ibe same pracedere os for sewing two bole buPlons.
Fig . 3 8
Page 22
5»
16
(i3)
23
11)
ti
0
.
,
t n
j ,3-]
> «
f'
2. Package of Needles (5)
3. Large Screw Driver
4. Small Screw Driver
5. Bobbins (3)
6. Felt Washers (2) (for spool pins)
7. Quilter Guide
8. Cloth Guide
9. Button Sewing Foot Fig. 29 '
10. Prong Type Buttonhole Foot
11. Presser Foot for Straight Sewing
12. Narrow Hemmer
13. Thumb Screw
14. Needle Plate for Straight Sewing
ACCESSORIES (Fig 39)
1. plastic Oiler (Sealed and Filled)
(graduated)
m
Fig. 39
Page 23
24
HOW TO USE ACCESSORIES
Narrow Hemmer: W,.h needle ai its highest position replace regular pres-
ser foot with narrow hemmer (Fig. 40) being sure to tighten it securely m
place. Set needle position lever at “L” position, pattern selector lever at
M position and zigzag stitch width control at 0 for straight stitched hem
or at number 3 for zigzag stitched hem. Set stitch length control to suit'
For a plain narrow hem make a inch double fold
for about two inches along edge of fabric. Hold each
end of the two inch fold, slip underneath hemmer. Bring
fold up into the scroll of hemmer. draw fabric forward to
end and fasten with point of needle. lower presser bar
lifter. Gently pull end of thread as you start stitching
(Fig. 41 for straight stitched hem and Fig. 42 for zigzag
stitched hem).
Guide material slightly to left and it will take a double
turn through scroll.
The narrow hem provides an excellent finish for edges
of ruffles or any other dainty work.
Page 24
25
LACE TRIMMED HEM
lace In ihe sloTne^ ft'^eeTle (F.'q”'«!F ‘''"'''''a. inserì
roi ‘7ictrcr„tre-
Ho^rTbf invisible stitching
laierl bo°"i„',c"'S ""i "I»' ’■iol" l»nd side of fabric
aoll o.er o„; siw”!, then^r”.- I" ■*'«
,s pressed on the wrong side. ^''»ching ,s completed the
french seam
P'^ce^of'^r^a^I'.tnf in^iVoi each other and the top
making
French
enoogh to catch Both edges^^IL^lTr^w-r^.^fieV _
1
;
Fig. 46
allowing hem to^°oil over In-
seam.
For cord nn ! f . '°P
™ with satin stitch. This can be
used for covering chairs and so
(Fig 45)
HEMMING ACROSS
A SEAM
To hem across a seam, cut
I e seam folds at an angle so
they w, I lead into the hemmer Fig 45
gradually. Press seam open 5,;,r-h .l
extreme edge to hold it together^and seam
may be necessary ,o pull the materfol °Lhd ”" 'T'
over the seam. (Fig. 46) oienoi slightly wtien he
nf tlie
".s It
nun mg
Page 25
■/'6
QUILTING GUIDE
Use this guide for making parallel rows of straight
or decorative siilchmg. Attach standard presser foot
blip U shaped holder on guide under presser fool
thumb screw from the back and tighten screw (Fig 47)
Ad|usl the curved bar for the distance desired be
tween rows of stitches and set so it presses slightly
on the fabric. By letting the guide ride on the pre
vious stitching line, successive rows will’ be at equal
distance apart. (Fig. 50).
Fig, 48
Fig. 49
SEAM GAUGE OR CLOTH GUIDE
Use the seam gauge as a guide for straight seams
and even rows of top stitching along edge of fobnc
frig. 51;
Fasten Gauge (Fig 48) with accompanying screw i
(Fig. 49) in threaded hole in bed of machine Adjust !
Fig . 5 1
to desired width. |
(Tfr-
Fig. 47
J
Fig. 50
Page 26
a
Fig. 52
CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF
YOUR MACHINE
HOW TO OIL YOUR MACHINE
Use only a good sewing machine.oil. do not use any com-
*^on household oils.
Your machine should be oiled occasionally to keep if op
erating smoothly-how often depends on the amount of sew-
'^9 you do.
Once a year oil your machine thoroughly as indicated by
'he arrows on Figs. 52, 53 and 54.
Avoid over oiling.
27
Fig. 54
Page 27
V8
CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE
(See Fig. 55 and 56)
Ihe stitch forming mechanism occasionally becomes
clogged with loose threads and lint. This will interfere with
the efficient operation of the machine. Cleaning and
removal of the lint will safeguard the performance.
To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed as follows;
1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches jU
highest position. Tilt head back on its hinges.
2. Remove bobbin case.
3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps (B) outward
and remove the shuttle race cover (C) and the shuttle
body (D).
4. Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle, and shuttle race
cover by removing all threads, lint, etc.
When the cleaning has been completed, proceed as
follows to replace the shuttle assembly:
1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its
highest position.
2. Place shullle body, (D), in roce ogain,! shullle driver and odjusl inlo poiilion
4. Put bobbin into bobbin case.
5. Put the bobbin cose into the shuttle, fitting tongue into notch E of race cover.
position
secure ly
Page 28
ADJUSTING AND CHANGING “V” BELT
0
29
fl
-rnift
iniiii
.4
Fig. 57
Following are the instructions for adjusting and changing the "V” belt;
) Remove three screws holding rear cover (Fig. 59) and fip it out at the bottom Then
pivoting around the hand wheel away from the front of the machine.
2) To adjust V belt, loosen screws (A, Fig. 58) and move bracket B up to loosen bell and
down to tighten,
^3) To remove "V" bell:
(A) Remove lop cover,
(B) loosen screws A" (Fig. 58) and move bracket “b” to its highest position.
(C) Slip bell off motor pulley and then over hand wheel.
(D) Replace V bell by slipping it over hand wheel and then over motor pulley
(E) Adjust as noted under No. 3.
Fig. 58
Fig. 59
Page 29
Page 30
31
Trouble
Sk ipping
Stitches
Irregular
Stitches
Uneven
Stitches
Probable Cause
Bent needle
Needle placed
incorrectly in clamp
Too fine a needle
for thread being used
Upper thread tension
too loose
Improper threading
Bobbin not wound
evenly
Pulling or holding
material
Not enough tension
on upper thread
Poor quality thread
Needle too fine for
thread being used
Correction
Discard and replace.
See instruction page No. 6.
See needle and thread chart, page No. 4.
Tighten upper tension.
See threading instruction, page No. 8.
Rewind bobbin.
Avoid pulling or holding material, just guide it.
Increase tension.
Try different thread.
See needle and thread chart, page No. 4,
Page 31
T rouble
Upper Thread
Break ing
Probable Cause
Improperly threaded Refer to threading instructions, see page No 8
and re thread machine.
Correction
Material
Puckering
Too much tension
Starting with take-up
in incorrect position
Improper setting of
needle
Bent or eye of needle
too sharp
Bent or blunt needle
Tensions too fight
Dull needle
Stitch length too long
Loosen tension on upper thread by turning
t read tension knob to lower number.
Always start sewing with lake-up lever in
highest position.
Refer to needle setting instruction, see page No. 6.
Try a new needle.
Discard all blunt or bent needles and replace
with new.
See tension adjustment, page No, 10,
Change needle.
Reduce stitch length.
Page 32
Your sewing machine comes equipped with the basic set of accessories describ
ed earlier in this book.
The following pages illustrate additional time saving attachments that have
been designed specifically for your machine. They are available at modest
cost from your dealer. |f your dealer cannot supply you with these items,
ask him to order them for you by part number. Then you s»/il| be assured
of receiving the genuine part designed for best performance with your
machine.
If a sewing machine dealer is not available mail your inquiry directly to:
WHITE SEWING MACHINE COMPANY
11750 BEREA ROAD
Cleveland, Ohio 44111
In Canoda:
33
WHITE CONSOLIDATED INDUSTRIES, LTD.
1470 BIRCHMOUNT ROAD
SCARBOROUGH. ONTARIO. CANADA
Page 33
34
SOME OF THE ATTACHMENTS AVAILABLE FOR YOUR MACHINE
/L
FART it 1403
Ruffler
^ i
PART #82528
Allochment Foot
PART #76553
PART #76552
PART #4990
Darning Spring
PART #74159
Binder
PART #76551
PART tt 1873
Cording & Zipper Fool
V
part # 76554
Edgeslitcher
t:
PART # 76550
Page 34
D
tr)
Fig. 60
EDGESTITCHER
The edgeslilcher is used in making
dainty laqe insertions, edgings and
piping.
The slots in the edgestitcher serve
as guides in sewing together various
pieces of material. If you want to
sew lace, lace and embroidery, or
lace and tucked strips together, place
ihe piece of material that will be on
•op in slot 1 (Fig. 61) and the lower
fabric in slot 4. For instance, if you
ore sewing lace edging to a finished
edge of fabric, place the fabric in
slot I and the lace in slot 4 (Fig
62).
ATTACHMENTS
Be sure the needle positioning lever is in the
extreme left hand position.
ATTACHMENT FOOT
In order to attach binder, edgestitcher and the hem-
iners, it is necessary to remove the presser foot and re
place it with the attachment foot, (Fig. 60)
Mount binder, edgestitcher or hemmers by sliding
the attachment to the left as possible and tiqhteninq
the screw.
The mounting slot enables you to sew as close to
or as far away from the edge as desired. Just move
the attachment to the correct position before tightening
the mounting screw.
' ly I. ■
Fig . 6 1
I I't (" )?
35
Page 35
36
,о dre. 1=Ç= and ".cenai unde, '¿e needle^ond Ьск ^oMhe^^ed.ennch.
h aie anu uu^is v.. .■—
_______
,b. tend „Гса“;':ГьаХа“СаГ,о„-.,-сЬ^ Нан Г'ьЬ^ Тн.“!»(ГЬа’пТ and ,Ье lace ,n
L !.gld, b=,ng sere Ihe ial.nc lí',he »me manne,. g , ,,
Rick-rock can be sev/n lo the edge of ^ ^ p,p,„g ,o ,he Mi
J:J"x 1:;''Гп*оГ'’;те,^pie» lebt in do. 2 and ,Ье folded edge ol ibe p.pn.g » ,be
and"S Ь,'»^е°,о''пГап'ЬаГТо u.e .he edgeClchec. Tbe,e are
hundreds of other uses.
Fig. 64
Fig. 63
Page 36
BINDER
Ih,s attachment sending widdTs ol^comm
^'°;he°;prmo:lh'of b,!: '¡ccC. . used for unfolded bios strips
FOLDED BINDING (Fig 69)
Cut a point on folded binding, insert in appropriate
by sliding binder to right or left.
TWO-TONE BINDING (Fig. 7o)
Two bindings can be sewn on fobric «¿9« °T-
operotion When two are used, always skip
tween widths, inserting each in correct size slot.
HAND-CUT BIAS BINDING (Fig. 69)
Cut %, mch bios binding fold in hol^F for - -of e
of inches Cut binding diogonolly toward end, almost to
flld Slip foW into center of binder. Draw bock unf
cut opens and binding encircles open end o J
stitching to be sure it ts on the edge, ad,ust if necessa y.
See Figs. 67
and 68 for sug
gestions on
how to use the
binder. There
are hundreds
of other uses.
37
material in one operation,
erciolly folded bias binding.
;ut I^ÍB inch wide.
- y
Fig. 70
Fig. 68
Page 37
J8
THE SET OF HEMMERS
Before attacfiing any of the hemmers, be sure bob
bin thread is pulled up. Then, with hemmer in place,
hold top thread loosely and turn handwheel one full
turn toward you, making a loop under hemmer. Grasp
bobbin thread with both hands and slip horizontal
ly under hemmer toward back. Bobbin thread will
catch loop and carry upper thread to back of hem
mer.
Fold material to suit for two inches along edge,
hold at each end of fold. Slip fold into guide and
up over spoon (Fig. 71 ). Fold hem in material back of hemmer.
and fasten with point of needle. Pull on threads gently as you start stitchi
HEMMER SET
You can make a hem 3-4, %, or in width, depending upon which
hemmer you use. For a few of the many uses see Figs. 72, 73, 74 75 76
and 77
Fig. 71
Draw forward to end of hem
ing.
Page 38
HEMMER SET
39
Fig. 72
F icj. 74
Fig. 73
'<■
( if) 77
Page 39
40
THE ADJUSTABLE CORDING
AND ZIPPER FOOT
This attachment is used to make and
insert covered cording, and to sew in
zippers. Loosen thumb screw to slide
foot to either right or left of needle.
CORDING. Fold bias strip of fabric
over cord. Loosen thumb screw and
set foot so needle is centered in needle
hole. Machine baste cord in place
(Fig. 78 ' 80).
To sew covered cord to material, reset adjustable
foot so needle stitches closer to cord, and on edge
of base fabric.
SEWING IN ZIPPER
Fig . 8 0
Loosen thumb screw and slide foot so needle enters
center of needle hole. Guide metal of zipper along
edge of foot (Fig. 80). Stitching should be close to
zipper to allow easy opening and closing. Adjust to
sew from either right or left side, whichever is more
convenient.
Page 40
ADJUSTABLE CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT
4)
Fig. 81
f ig fn
Page 41
A 7
RÜFFLER
It
W f
pp
' ''
4
Fig. 84 Pig
Fig. 86
The ruffler will produce yards of delicate ruffling or precision pleafina
a dress etc. ^ P'eating a skirl, adding fullness lo the bod.ce of
Page 42
RÜFFLER
43
Fig. 87
Fig. 88
Page 43
44
SEWING TIPS
When a dainty hair line finish is particularly desirable for the inside seams of sheer collars,
facings, and yokes, seam allowance that would ordinarily show through is eliminated by following
the seam outline with a narrow zigzag stitch.
Trim seam allowance close to line of stitching. Turn and press.
EVENLY SPACED BUTTONHOLES
To make a row of buttonholes evenly spaced and accurately stitched, draw the outlines for
the buttonholes on one long strip of tissue paper. Pin this pattern to position on the garment
with fabric strips under each marking. Stitch around the outlines then tear paper away
Page 44
Fig. 94
SHAPING DARTS IN INTERFACINGS
3
K
Center
Cut interfacing down center between dart lines. Over
lap cut edges, matching dart lines. Zigzag stitch along
marking line from point to wide end of dart. Trim both
45
Fig. 95
Page 45
46
OVERCASTING WORN EDGES
Ziy/ay stilch along the worn edges, catching the fabric as
the needle swings to the left, and allowing the needle to just
pass over the edge of the fabric on the right (Fig. 98)
PATCHING
Machine baste patch into
place under hole or worn area
which has been cut away.
Then zigzag stitch the patch
into place by overcasting
around edge of hole (Fig. 99).
j#..
Fig, 99
STRAIGHT OR THREE CORNERED TEAR
Fig, 98
Zigzag stitch along a straight tear catching fabric on left and
right side of tear by swing of needle. Be sure your tensions
are not too tight or puckering will be encountered.
In mending a three cornered tear, start zigzag stitch from
each end and work to center (Fig. 100).
Page 46
PLAIN BOUND BUTTONHOLE
Cut sirnigfil or bias sirips of fabric 2" wide
rmrl 1" longer ihnn the desired bullonholes.
I’lace rigfil sides logelfier over positions for
bu I lon(\ole s. Mark exact length of
tonhole in center of each strip place a pin
ifirough center of the marking. Begin to
stitch at the pin; marking an oblong box
above and below the line ’
Run a few stitches beyond starting point to
reinforce. View t.
Slasfi through the center line of the box to
within ' 1 ' of each end then diagonally into
each corner, View 2. Turn the strip through
the opening, press seoms flat across the ends
so the facing will not be visible from the right
side. Fold the strip to meet in the center of
the opening Baste the folds together across
the opening. View 3.
Turri grjfment bock at eoch end and stitch
ocross the strip, securing the triangular slashed
section to the plealorj strip and press, View 4.
Bring facing of garment to position and baste
around each buttonhole. Insert the point of a pin
through each corner and slash through the
center and into each corner pin. Turn under
the rav/ edges and slip stitch the facing to the
underside of the buttonhole. View 5. Press
the finished buttonfiole, Viev/ 6.
,i
' across
each
but
each end.
47
Page 47
4H
FOR PORTABLE INSTALLATION
Pleciso recid ihese important instructions which
were written to oid you in placing your new
sewing machine on its portable bose.
First, remove the nail which holds the foot
control msicJo the base to avoid damage in ship
ping. If a small plastic clump is fastened
to the back and not to the top of the partition
at one end of the base, remove it, too.
After unpacking the sewing machine unit,
being certain to take out the instruction book,
guarantee and accessory box, lay the unit face
down on a table. You will see two clamping
screws A entering head hinge holes B on the
underside of the back.
On the base you will find two head hinges
C which will fit into holes B. Lower the base
onto the sewing machine fitting hinges C into
holes B. Tighten screws A securely with a
screw driver.
With machine in sewing position attach plas
tic clamp D to top of partition with screw pr
ovided so that it may be turned across the bed
of the machine, to hold it down. (On some
bases the clamp may be positioned in the pro
per spot).
To make the electrical connection draw the
two wires through the slot in the partition of
the base. plug the cord labeled "Motor” into
the receptacle marked "Motor" on the block
attached to the outer section of the base. Then
insert the other cord into the "Light" receptacle.
Place the foot control on the floor, insert
plug into a wall outlet (110-115 volts) and you
are ready to sew. But first read the instruction
book to become familiar with the threading of
the machine, tension adjustments and all the
other features designed to make sewing a ple
asure.
Page 48
49
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