SINGER W510 User Manual

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WHITE SEWING MACHINE

Record in space provided below the Serial No. and Model No. of this appliance.

The Serial No. is located Rear of arm. The Model No. is located Rear of arm. Serial NO;

Model No. 510

Retain these numbers for future reference.

_______________________________________

TABLE 0=^ CO.'vTENTS

Page

I. FEATURES AND PARTS......................................................................................................4-5

Principl6 Psrts...............................................................................................................4 5

II. ACCESSORIES........................................................................................................................ 6

Contents of Accessory Set................................................................................................6

III. YOUR SEWING MACHINE AND CASE

Portable Case......................................................................................................................7

Setting the Extension on Flaps for Sewing on Flat Sewing Surface

Setting Flaps for Free-Arm Sewing...................................................................................7

Electrical Connections...................................................................................................... 8

Sewing Light........................................................................................................................8

IV. PREPARING THE MACHINE TO SEW..............................................................................9-11

Winding the Bobbin............................................................................................................9

Lower Threading.............................................................................................................. 10

Threading Bobbin Case...............................................................................................10

Placing Bobbin Case in Shuttle................................................................................. 10

Upper Threading.............................................................................................................. 11

V. CHOOSING THE RIGHT NEEDLE.................................................................................12—14

Types of Needles..................................................................................................... 12—13

Needle-Thread-Fabric Chart.....................................................................................12—13

Changing the Needle....................................................................................................... 14

Changing the Needle Plate............................................................................................ 14

VI. GETTING TO KNOW YOUR SEWING MACHINE............................................................15-19

Adjusting the Stitch..................................................................................................15—17

Stitch Length Dial........................................................................................................ 15

Reverse Lever.............................................................................................................. 15

Stitch Width Dial.......................................................................................................... 15

Relating Stitch Length to Stitch Width..................................................................... 15

Pattern Selector Dial................................................................................................... 16

Needle Position and Buttonhole Control Dial.......................................................... 17

Adjusting for the Fabric...........................................................................................17—18

Feed Dog Control........................................................................................................ 17

Pressure Control......................................................................................................... 17

Tension............................................................................................................................. 18

Adjusting the Thread Tensions................................................................................. 18

The Proper Presser Foot ..

Changing the Foot.................................................................................................... . 19

The All Purpose Foot................................................................................................. 19

The Straight Stitch Foot............................................................................................. 19

The Buttonhole Foot................................................................................................... 19

The Embroidery Foot.........................................................................!........................ 19

The Cording and Zipper Foot.................................................................................... 19

VII. HOW TO SEW..................................................................................................................20-21

Pinning...............................................................................................................................20

Placement of Fabric/Starting a Seam............................................................................ 20

Guiding the Fabric.................................................................................................. 20—21

Etched Seam Guide.....................................................................................................20

Cloth Guide...................................................................................................................20

Presser Foot as a Guide............................................................................................. 20

...

...............................................................................

............................

.......................................................................................... 19

7-8

TABLE OT COiwEr>:TS

Page

Holding the Fabric....................................................................................................... 21

Turning Corners............................................................................................................21

Curved Seams.............................................................................................................. 21

Sewing Across Heavy Seams

Ending Seam/Removal of Fabric............................................................................... 21

VIII. APPLICATIONS OF THE STRAIGHT STITCH................................................................

Seams............................................................................................................................ 22

Basting/Topstitching....................................................................................................22

Darning.......................................................................................................................... 22

Elastic Thread Shirring................................................................................................ 22

IX. APPLICATIONS OF THE ZIGZAG STITCH.................................................................23-27

Overcasting................................................................................................................... 23

Seaming Knits...............................................................................................................23

Sewing on Buttons........................................................................................................23

Forming a Thread Shank.........................................................................................24

Satin Stitching...............................................................................................................24

Tapering/Creative Em.broidsry.................................................................................. 25

Manual Embroidery Designs...................................................................................25

Freehand Monogramming...........................................................................................25

Applique.........................................................................................................................26

Gathering Over a Cord................................................................................................. 26

Lace Application...........................................................................................................27

Flutter Hem.................................................................................................................. 27

X. BUTTONHOLES...........................................................................................................28-31

Preparation....................................................................................................................28

Built-in Buttonholer......................................................................................................29

Turn-Around Buttonholes........................................................................................... 30

Corded Buttonholes.....................................................................................................31

XI. APPLICATIONS OF THE BLIND HEM STITCH...........................................................32-33

Hemming.......................................................................................................................32

Shell Tuck......................................................................................................................33

Decorative Effects........................................................................................................33

Topstitch Effects..........................................................................................................33

Decorative Stitch Combinations

XII. APPLICATIONS OF THE MULTIPLE STITCH ZIGZAG

Overcasting............................................................................................................... . 34

Patching...................................................................................................................... 34

Mending a Tear or Instant Darning

Elastic Application.......................................................................................................35

Understitching Facings...............................................................................................35.

Decorative Effects........................................................................................................35

XIII. APPLICATIONS OF THE OVERLOOK STITCH

Seam.s......................................................................................................................... 36

Nylon Tricot Seams...............................................■...................................................37

Applying Elastic...........................................................................................................37

Ladder Stitch................................................................................................................37

....................................................................................

...............................................................................

..............................................

....................................................."....................

..........................................................

34-35

36-38

ГАБ^Е OF CDNTEt;'TS

Page

Hemstitching...................................................................................................................38

Topstitching....................................................................................................................

XIV. APPLICATIONS OF THE STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH..............................................39

Seams............................................................................................................................. 39

Topstitching.................................................................................................................... 39

XV. APPLICATIONS OF THE INTERLOCK...................................................................40

Lingerie Seam.................................................................................................................40

Inserting Lace............................................................................................................... 40

Shell Tuck........................................................................................................................ 40

XVI. APPLICATIONS OF THE ELASTIC EDGING STITCH........................................................41

Topstitching.................................................................................................................... 41

Edging.............................................................................................................................41

XVII. APPLICATIONS OF THE FEATHER STITCH

Fagoting...........................................................................................................................42

Baseball...........................................................................................................................42

XVIII. APPLICATION OF THE STRETCH OVERLOCK................................................................43

XIX. APPLICATION OF THE RICK-RACK

Topstitching.....................................................................................................................43

XX. APPLICATIONS OF THE STRETCH BLIND HEM

Hemming......................................................................................................................... 44

Edging..............................................................................................................................44

Eyelash Buttonhole .......................................................................................................44

XXI. TWIN NEEDLE SEWING.................................................................................................45-46

Twin Needle Sewing Effects..........................................................................................45

Pin Tucks....................................................................................................................... 46

Decorative Tucks or Designs...................................................................................... 46

XXII. FREE-ARM SEWING...........................................................................................................47

XXIII. USE OF THE ACCESSORIES.............................................................................................48

Cording and Zipper Foot.......................................................................................... 48

Quilting Guide.................................................................................................................48

XXIV. ADDITIONAL SPECIAL ACCESSORIES............................................................................49

Roller Foot..................................................................................................................... 49

Overcast Foot.................................................................................................................49

Blind Hem Foot...............................................................................................................49

Rolled Hem Foot.............................................................................................................49

Fringe Foot......................................................................................................................49

XXV. CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR SEWING MACHINE.......................................50-51

Changing Needles......................................................................................................... 50

Cleaning....................................................................................................... :

Oiling...............................................................................................................................51

Changing the Light Bulb...............................................................................................51

XXVI. MINOR PROBLEMS AND THEIR SOLUTIONS.............................................................52-53

.................................................................•..............

............................................................

.............................................................

................

' “E-iTL-'PES AND PARTS

Control Panel Cover

covers the pattern selector Hiai stitch density control,

and bobbin winder

Bobbin Winder Tension Discs

controls the tension on the thread as the honhin is being wound.

Pattern Selector Dial

selects pattern desired. May be turned in any direction.

has two discs which regulate the amount of tension

on the needle thread.

Take-up Lever

regulates the flow of thread through the needle. It has

an open eyelet to simplify threading. The take-up lever should always be in the highest position when beginning

or ending sewing.

r n I i I

Tension Dial

Face Plate

opens to the left to allow for easy chanpino of the light

bulb.

Check Sprint

helps control the flow of thread through^e needle.

CIsmn

holds the needle tn place.

Thumb Screw

holds the presser foot in place.

Flap Release Knob

releases flaps for flat sewing surface.

Presser Foot

holds the fabric in place for sewing. Snap-on feet are provided with the sewing machine. Various interchange able soles are included in the accessory box. The front of the presser foot shank is white to make needle thread ing easier.

pushes the needle plate up for easy removal.

moves the fabric after each stitch is formed. The

diamond points give a gentle feed for delicate fabrics

as well as an accurate feed for heavy fabrics.

has guide lines on the left and right for greater sewing

accuracy. It snaps off for easy cleaning.

holds flaps up for flat sewi.ng surface.

are released and braced whenever a flat sewing surface is desired or access to the bobbin is needed.

controls the amount of pressure on the fabric. The

illustrated plate indicates the proper position for various fabrics.

Needle Plate Release Leve.

Diamond Point Feed Dog

Needle Plate

Flat Sewing Surface Brace

Flat Sewing Surface Flaps

Pressure Control

Stitch Density Control regulates the closeness or openness of the buttonhole

right side.

Bobbin Winder

automatically stops winding when the bobbin is. tiUed.

Hand Wheel

controls the up and down movement of the needle bar.

Always turn it toward you.

Stitch Width Dial allows for precise adjustment of zigzag stitch width as well as tapering.

Needle Position and Buttonhole Control Dial

is turned for needle position change, also turned clockwise tor easy two step buttonholes.

Reverse Lever

allows for easy back-tacking to lock thread ends.

Stitch Length Dial allows for precise adjustment of stitch length from very fine to very long.

reeo L/og uontroi adjusts the height of the feed dog for special sewing

applications.

Presser Foot Lever

controls the raising and lowering of the presser foot. With the lever down, the presser foot holds fabric for

sewing. With the lever up to its first position, the fabric can be turned freely without release of upper thread tension or slack of upper thread, for changing sewing direction or turning the corner. With the lever up to the second posrtion, the upper

thread tension is completely released to remove fabric

after sewing. An extra lift is also available for placement of heavy, bulky fabrics under the presser foot by holding the

lever up to its extreme top position.

Thread Cutter is located on the back of the presser bar for convenience.

Spool Pins

hold all types of spools effectively.

Power Switch turns on both motor and light simultaneously. Allows

selection of high and low speed.

Coupling Wheel releases the movement of the needle bar in order to wind

a bobbin.

1!, accessories

Your new White Rotary sewing machine comes equipped with the following set of acces sories to make your sewing easier.

Three Metal Bobbins

The bobbins are made of metal and hold about 80 yards of thread.

Needles

All-purpose needles sizes 11, 14 and 16 are

included. Twin needle

is also provided.

Two Felt Washers

Place the felt washers

under the spools for best stitching results.

Quilting Guide

helps make parallel. rows of stitching.

Embroidery root has a wide groove on

the bottom which allows the foot to pass over dense stitches.

Also has two small tun nels in front to accom

modate cord.

Buttonhole Foot

has measuring lines to insure exact buttonhole length needed.

Button Sewing Foot

to hold button in place for stitching.

Cording and Zipper Foot for stitching very close

to the edge of a cord or zipper.

Cloth Guide and Screw

aids in sewing straight

seams.

All Purpose Foot

used for all utility sew ing.

Straight Stitch Foot and Plate

for straight sewing on sheer and very light weight materials where extra support is needed.

Screw Drivers

Small one for use on bobbin tension. Large one for use on thumb screw, needle clamp screw, etc.

Tubed Oiler for use in oiling the

machine. See page 51.

Seam Ripper for cutting open

buttonholes and removing stitches.

the for

III. YOUR SEWING MACHINE AND CASE

Portable case cover is fixed to the base with two latches at each narrow side of the cover. For opening the case, press the latches out and down to release them from the hooks on the bottom base of the case.

For closing, hang the latches to the hooks on the bottom base and press them up.

Unless installing machine into cabinet, it is not necessary to remove the bottom base of the

Sewing Machine and Base

SETTING THE EXTENSION FLAPS

FOR SEWING ON FLAT SEWING

SURFACE

Turn flap release knob counter-clockwise to release the front flap and clockwise for the back flap. Pull the flap brace to out position.

SETTING FLAPS FOR FREE-ARM SEWING

Press the flap brace into the lower arm, then, press both flaps down until they . click on the stopper latches of flap release

knob.

Note: Free-arm setting of machine is for

simple handling of tubular and hard-to-reach garment areas. (See

Psirta -

ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS Insert the plug with the indenta

tions on the underside into the socket on the right side of the machine. The plug will only go in one way. Place the foot con

trol in such a position that your foot rests comfortably on it.

Insert the plug into a wall outlet, 110-120 V.

SEWING LIGHT The switch at the right side of

machine is the master switch for on-off of both the light and the motor. It is also for selection of

speed between fast and slow sewing.

With the switch at "LOW" posi

tion, powerful slow speed sew

ing, less than 650 rpm is possible. At "HIGH", sewing speed reaches upto 950 rpm maximum.

The light is turned on when the

switch is set at these positions.

At the lower range you may en

counter a noticable .hum or in crease in motor noise. This is common due to the increased power or torque needed to operate your machine.

With the switch at "OFF" posi tion, the electric circuits for both light and motor are completely shut off. When machine is not in use, always turn the switch off for safety.

The sewing light is located in face cover directly over the

needle to better illuminate the

stitching area. With the power switch at the

right side of machine on "HIGH"

or "LOW" speed position, the

light simultaneously turns on,

and with the switch on "OFF", the light also turns off.

(V. PREPARING

r,-ACi-

WINDING THE BOBBIN

Disengage the hand wheel by holding it tightly with your left hand and turning the coupling wheel toward you with your right hand (Fig. 21). Place the spool on

spool pin (A) , leaving about one foot of thread free. Lead the thread around the guide (B) on the back of the machine and around the bobbin winder tension disc (C), then thread guide (D) as illustrated

(Fig. 22), and run the end of thread through a hole on the rim of bobbin. Place the bobbin on the spindle and push the bobbin winder to the right. Hold the thread end securely and run the machine slowly. Bobbin will stop turning when

filled. Cut thread and push bobbin winder to the left. Remove bobbin from

spindle. Tighten the coupling wheel by turning it away from you as you hold the hand wheel in place. The needle should now move when you turn the hand wheel.

Note: If the bobbin is winding unevenly,

adjust bobbin Winder threed guide up or down as needed.

LOWER THREADING

• Threading Bobbin Case Turn flap release knob back to release the front fiat sewing surface flap. (Fig. 23) Raise the front flap upward fully. Make sure that the take-up lever is in

its highest position. Remove the bobbin case, by opening the bobbin case latch and pulling the bobbin case out. (Fig. 24) Hold

the bobbin case between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, so that the slot in the edge of the bobbin case is on top. Take the bobbin between the

thumb and forefinger of the right

hand so that the thread on top leads from left to right. Insert

the bobbin into the bobbin case.

Draw the thread into the slot of

the bobbin case and then under the tension spring into the fork shaped opening of the spring.

(Fig. 25) Then lead the thread

through the spiral thread guide

on top of bobbin case.

• Placing Bobbin Case in

Shuttle

Hold the threaded bobbin case in your left hand. Raise the bobbin case latch with your finger and hold open. Insert and

center the bobbin case on the stud of the rotary hook. Be sure the square opening of the bobbin case is on top. Press the bobbin case into the rotary hook as far as possible until the latch catches on the center post of the rotary hook. Then release the bobbin

case latch. Press the bobbin case to be sure the bobbin case is locked securely in place. (Fig.

26)

UPPER THREADING

Turn the hand wheel toward you to raise the take-up lever up just above red mark. The presser foot should be in a raised posi tion. Lead the thread from the spool as illustrated. Draw the thread through the rear thread guide, then forward between the

tension discs, down and around the check spring, up and around the take-up lever, down through thread guide on needle clamp. Thread the needle from front to

back and leave the thread about three to four inches long. (Fig.

27) Hold end of upper thread to the left of needle plate and turn the hand wheel toward you

one complete revolution. Pull the loop which has been formed with lower thread through to the

upper surface. (Fig. 28) Place both thread ends under the presser foot and draw them to

the side leaving both threads

about four inches long. (Fig. 29)

\- CHOOSING THE RIGHT NEEDLE

TYPES OF NEEDLES The correct selection of needle to suit the thread and fabric being sewn gives the best stitching results. Fine fabrics should be sewn with fine needles, heavier fabrics with heavier needles. For best results, sewing machine needles should be replaced when they become even slightly

dull or bent or at the completion of every other garment.

- ■--- H r.:. r is suggested for use with woven fabrics. Needles, style 15 x 1, (European

equivalent System 705) are used on the majority of household sewing machines. They range

in sizes from 8 to 20 with the lower number indicating the finer needle. The most commonly

used sizes are 11 and 14.

- ■ ■ r ~~ - rrce is designed to handle knits as well as woven fabrics. It eliminates

skipped stitches and the slight ball will not damage delicate fabrics. This is the needle provided with your sewing machine and will be used for most of your sewing. A larger ball point may still be necessary for certain knits, such as bathing suit fabric or power net.

r.-:' - • " is recommended for use with tricots, jerseys, lingerie and power nets.

Unlike sharp, pointed needles, which pierce fibers of knit fabrics, destroying elasticity, the

ball point slips between fibers, preventing damage to fabric and skipped stitches. These are

available in fine, medium, and heavy ball points.

............. '-rc-r is recommended for use with leather and leather-look vinyls. A wedge

cutting point pierces leather more easily than ordinary sewing machine needles, resulting in more satisfactory stitching.

NEEDLE, THREAD, FABRIC & STITCHING GUIDE

The correct selection of needle and thread to suit the fabric will result in more satisfactory

stitching. Fine fabrics should be stitched with fine needles, fine thread and short stitches.

For best results on heavier fabrics, use coarser needles, heavier threads and longer stitches. Replace the machine needle when it becomes even slightly dull or bent.

WOVEN

LEATHER

DECORATIVE

STITCHING

KNITS

LIGHT WEIGHT;Tricot, Power Net

MEDIUM WEIGHT; Jersey, Double Knit, Power Net

HEAVY WEIGHT: Double Knit, Power Net 11—14

FAKE FURS-VELOURS 14-16

VERY SHEER; Lace, Net, Chiffon, Voile 9 SHEER; Lawn, Taffeta, Blouse Crepe, Organdy 9 DRESS WEIGHT.Crepe, Wool, Brocade, Velvet 9—11 MEDIUM; Wool, Silk, Linen, Pique, Faille, .,

Velveteen, Terrycloth HEAVY: Denim, Duck, Sailcloth 16 EXTRA HEAVY: Canvas, Upholstery, Awning 19

VINYLS-FILMS 14 LIGHT TO MEDIUM WE IGHT: Leathers & Suedes 14—16 HEAVY LEATHER 16-18 MACHINE EMBROIDERY 9-11 TOP STITCHING 16-18 METALLIC EMBROIDERY 11

80-90

90-100

70 70

70-80

100

120

90-100

100-110

60-80

100-110

Light Ball to

Medium Ball

Medium Ball to

Heavy Ball

Ball or Sharp

Sharp Sharp Sharp

Sharp

Sharp Sharp

Leather (Wedge) Leather (Wedge) Leather (Wedge)

Point

flat

Eye

Short Groove

(Flat Side of Needle)

Shaft

Long Groove (Round Side of Needle)

Body

-■/

Long Groove

Regular Sharp All-purpose Medium Ball Needle Needle Point Needle

:lCr

:ned.

■T~.

--------!...

12 9 50 30

10-14

10 4-5 16-18 14-16

--------------------------------------------

4-5

10 60 70

9 50

\J\J

50 30

Heavy Duty

Wedge Point

Needle

--------

50—70 NO A-Silk/Nyion

YES

vcc

< l—*~r

50-70

YES NO

NO A-Silk/Nylon

- i . , t*'

A-SUk.|Nv1on

A-Silk/Nyion

A-Silk/Nyton

A-Silk

ciongateo scan

Short Groove

Eye

Roller Foot

10 6-7

6-8

7-8 50

Heavy Duty

3-4 ■ 7-8 50 3-4 3

Heavy Duty

Cotton Embroidery Thread Size 50—70

Silk Buttonhole Twist Size D

Metallic Thread

30 30

30 30 30

YES

YES YES YES

A-Silk

NO NO NO NO NO

Roller Foot

Roller Foot Roller Foot

CHANGING THE NEEDLE

wne” rer'iECinc S£

• To Change the Needle

1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position

by turning the hand wheel toward you.

2. Loosen needle clamp screw to remove the

needle. (Fig. 31)

3. Place needle (flat side to the back and long groove toward you) (Fig. 32) in the needle clamp and push it upward as far as it will go, tighten clamp screw.

4. After changing the needle, make one

complete revolution of the hand wheel by hand to be sure the needle is clearing the needle plate.

CZ)

113 7

284 8 ' ^

CHANGING THE NEEDLE PLATE

To change the needle plate, release front flap sewing surface and turn flap up. Push the

button on the left side of the bobbin case

and the needle plate will automatically raise.

(Fig. 34) Lift the needle plate. Replace the needle plate by sliding the clip on the right of'-the needle plate under the opening and pressing the left side of the needle plate

down into place. (Fig. 35, 36) The needle plate is removed for cleaning the

lint which may-pile up between the needle

plate and the feed dogs. The straight stitch needle plate is used for sewing very fine or

soft materials. The zigzag needle plate can

be used for all of the normal sewing. Care should be taken to clean lint from the feed dogs to insure smooth operation of the feed mechanism.

VI. GETTING TO KNOW YOUR SEWING

L_J

pj~

ADJUSTING THE STITCH

• Stitch Length Dial This dial (Fig. 37) controls the forward

feeding of the fabric. At 0, the fabric does

not feed at all. As the numbers increase so does the length of the stitch. Turn the blue dial so that the desired number is below the blue indicator.

• Reverse Lever The "R" marked blue lever (Fig. 38) above

and to the right of the stitch length dial will

cause the machine to sew in reverse when

depressed. This lever may be used at the beginning and end of sewing to lock the

threads. To backstitch, simply push the lever down

and hold for the desired number of stitches. It is advisable to tie the thread ends instead

of backstitching on soft sheer fabrics to

avoid puckering.

Pattern: Length; Xk Width: 0—5 Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: M

Pattern;

Length: 0-5

Width: 5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure; Normal

Foot; All Purpose Needle Position; M

• Stitch Width Dial This dial (Fig. 39) controls the swing of the

needle right and left for various widths of

stitchss. A»t Q, tH6 nsscilc dess not. swing therefore, a straight line of sewing results no matter which stitch is selected.

At 1, the needle takes a narrow swing result

ing in a narrow column of stitching. At 5, '

the needle takes a large swing resulting in a wide column of stitches. (Fig. 40)

• Relating Stitch Length to Stitch Width When the width dial is engaged at one par

ticular width (such as 5), the stitch length dial will now control bow close those stitches come together. At length 0, the fabric does not move, resulting in a ball of stitches formed one on top of the other, as is used in button sewing. At about 1/4, the feed pulls the fabric through slowly, result ing in a dense column of stitches called a satin stitch. At length 5, a very long open

zigzag resu Its. (F ig. 41)

• Pattern Selector Dial This dial selects the stitch pattern to be made accord

ing to the pictures shown at the blue indicator. Turn

this dial in any direction and the picture of the stitch will be shown by the blue indicator. Pattern:

The stitches shown are as follows: Needle Position: M

Length: 3-5

Width: 0—5 Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: Ali Purpose

1. AM Results in the standard straight stitch when the width is at zero and the standard

zigzag* when the width is engaged.

AA- Blind hem, stitches forward then a zigzag bite to the left for use in hemming,

shell tucking, and other applications. See page 32. Width 0 will give a straight stitch,

all other widths will produce the blind hem stitch.

;'\’V\ Multiple stitch zigzag, takes three stitches from side to side for use in overcast

ing, applying elastics, and mending as shown on pages 34. Width 0 results in a straight stitch, width 5 is the best choice for use of the multiple stitch zigzag.

the left for blind hemming soft, stretchable knits. When used on a very short length, an

excellent edging stitch is produced. See page 44. A straight stitch is obtained at width 0. A if nthnr widths oroduce the stretch blind hem stitch.

AAA

light weight jerseys andtricotsas on page 40. Width 0 results in a straight stitch, all other widths produce the interlock.

___ ■ Overlock, takes one stitch to the left, one stitch backwards and then one stitch

to the right to form a straight seam and overcast all in one operation. This is excellent on both knits and wovens for finished 54 inch seams on width 5, and for the straight

stretch stitch at width 0. See page 36.

7. Elastic edging stitch, takes one stitch to the left, then forward over it, then a small rick-rack stitch, for decorative uses. At 0 the straight stretch stitch is produced and all other widths result in the elastic edging stitch.

Stretch blind hem, takes two small zigzag stitches then a larger zigzag stitch to

Interlock, one straight stitch is formed then a zigzag to the right for seaming

8. ' Feather stitch, takes slanted stitches to the right and left to produce the feather

stitch for a decorative effect, at width 5. Width 0 produces the straight stretch stitch.

9. ~z== Stretch overlock, takes a stitch to the left and right then two straight stretch

stitches for use on softer, bulkier stretchy fabrics. Use it at width 5 for completed 54 inch seams on knits and on 0 for the straight stretch stitch See page 43.

10. Rick-rack, takes stitches forward and backwards to form a triple reinforced

zigzag for decorative uses. Width 0 produces the straight stretch stitch all other widths

result in the rick-rack stitch. Seeoaae43.

(A)

(B)

Pattern:

Length: 2-5 Width: 0-5 Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose

Needle Position;

NEEDLE POSITION & BUTTON-HOLE CON

TROL DIAL

This dial (Fig. 42-A and 42-B} is used for changing needle position and when making two-step button

hole. Needle Position;

Three different needle positions, L-left, M-middle and R-right can be selected. Also, those inter mediate positions between left and middle and between middle and right can be selected with the dial at the middle between L — M, and M — R.

With the dial at L, M and R, the straight stitch line

is formed at left, middle and right respectively.

The etched guide lines on the needle plate are measured from the needle in the middle position. Never change the needle position while the needle is in the fabric because it will bend or break the needle.

Buttonhole Control Dial; The first buttonhole picture sews the bartack

and the right side. When the second buttonhole picture is chosen, the bartack is sewn and then

the left side. Only two steps are necessary to

make buttonhole the size desired.

Pattern: Length: 2—5

Width: 0—5

Feed Dog:

Pressure; Normal

Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: M

Pattern:

Length: 2-5

Width: 0-5

Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Foot; Allpurpose

Needle Position: M

ADJUSTING FOR THE FABRIC

• Feed Dog Control This dial (Fig. 43) will raise and lower the feed

dog as indicated. Since the feed dog moves the fabric through the machine, this dial allows the

feed to be regulated for various types of sewing.

UP — for the greatest height of the feed dog

and the best grip on the fabric. This is the position used for most sewing.

DOWN — In this position, the feed dog is com

pletely below the needle plate surface and therefore does not move the fabric

at all.

Down position is used for sewing on but

tons, darning, and free hand embroidery.

• Pressure Control

This control (Fig. 44) regulates how heavily the

presser foot rests upon the fabric. To completely release the pressure for freehand work, push the pressure release button backward until the upper plate pops up. To set half pressure for heavy bulky fabrics, push the upper plate halfway down as indicated on the picture panel inside the face cover. Push the upper plate all the way down for regular sewing. Light weight fabrics need more pressure for better hold against the feed, whereas heavier, bulkier fabrics require less pressure to

eliminate pushing of the top layer.

TENSION

The top tension (Fig. 45) consists of discs

between which the upper thread passes. The numbered tension dial regulates how tightly the thread is being held. When necessary, adjust the top tension dial in relation to the red line, turning to a lower number to loosen and to a higher number

to tighten the upper thread tension. The top tension is engaged only when the presser foot is down for sewing. Normal top tension is usually about 5.

The bobbin thread tension is controlled by a small screw on the side of the bobbin case. (Fig. 46) This screw may be turned with the small screw driver to the right

to tighten and to the left to loosen the

bobbin tension.

• Adjusting the Thread Tensions

The tensions may have to be adjusted for CtJi Idin

: - ... .■.. Use a new

needle the correct size for the thread and

fabric being sewn. (See chart page 12)

It is best to test the tension on a scrap of the fabric you are using for construction. Always use a double thickness and always sew on the bias when testing tensions.

The tensions are correct when the upper thread and lower thread interlock be tween the two layers of fabric with the loops not showing on top or bottom. (Fig.47-A)

Adjust as follows:

1. If the seam is puckered both top and

bobbin tensions are too tight. Loosen both tensions slightly.

2. If top thread lays on the fabric with bottom thread looping over it, the top

tension is too tight.(Fig.47-B).Loosen the top tension slightly.

3. If the bottom thread lays on the fabric with the upper thread looping over it, top tension is too loose.(Fig.47-C).

Tighten top tension slightly.

(B)

(C)

Top tension too tight

Top tension too loose

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

THE PROPER PRESSER FOOT

• Changing the Foot Pull the presser foot shank lever

toward you to remove the foot.

(Fig. 48 — Step 1) To attach place the desired foot under the shank and lower the presser bar. (Step 2) Foot will be locked automatically. (Step 3)

• The All Purpose Foot

This foot (Fig. 49) is flat on the

bottom and has a wide hole to

accommodate wide stitches. This

foot should be used for all

normal sewing.

• The Straight Stitch Foot This foot (Fig. 50) is flat on the bottom and has only a small hole

to accommodate only straight stitching. It may be used on

sheer or soft fabrics for more control when the all purpose foot allows the fabric to be pulled with the needle.

• The Buttonhole Foot This foot (Fig. 51) has a frame

which holds the fabric taut enough to produce a good

buttonhole. The markings on

the side allow exact buttonhole

length to be made.

» The Embroidery Foot This foot (Fig. 52) has a wide groove carved out on the bot

tom. This groove allows the foot to pass over dense stitches such as the satin stitch without catching on the stitch. . It is transparent to make the stitch more visible. It has two small grooves in the front to make cording easier. Do not use this foot for normal sewing of light weight fabrics. Since it ¡s groov ed it will not hold the fabric taut enough to produce a good

straight stitch.

• Cording and Zipper Foot This foot (Fig. 53) is a very

narrow width, with needle open

ing cuts at its right and left sides

to sew in zippers and insert cord

ing.

\/l;

HOW TO SEW

Pinning may be used as a time saver instead of

hand basting. Place your pins at right angles to the edge of the fabric with the pin head at the raw edge. It is possible to sew over pins, but for best results it is recommended that the

pins be removed as you approach the presser foot. Sewing over pins can result in damaged needles.

PLACEMENT OF FABRIC/STARTING A

SEAM

Before placing fabrics under the presser foot, make sure that the take-up lever is at its highest position. Place your fabric so that its

raw edge is even with the back edge of the presser foot.

When placing a heavy, bulky fabric under the foot push up on the presser foot lever for extra

lift while you are positioning the fabric. Place the thread ends, which are 3—4 inches long, under the presser foot and either to the left or to the right. Be sure that both thread ends are under the presser foot. Always lower presser foot before sewing. (Fig. 54)

Push the reverse lever down so that the machine

sews a few stitches backwards to the edge of the fabric to backtack, then release the lever allowing the machine to continue forward.

GUIDING THE FABRIC

• Etched Seam Guide The etched seam guides on the needle plate are

graduated in 1/8 inch divisions measured from the middle needle position. (Fig. 55) In order to use the etched guides effectively, let the

edge of the fabric follow the line selected for the seam. Therefore, for a 5/8 inch seam, place the raw edge of the fabric on the line marked

"5/8". in order to sew a straight line, let your eye follow the etched lines, not the needle.

• Cloth Guide This guide may be placed on the machine for

extra help in keeping seams straight. It will allow you to guide seams from 1/4 inch to

1-1/2 inch in width, so that it is useful for

seams of unusual widths. (Fig. 56)

• Presser Foot as a Guide Straight Stitch Foot — for a 1/4 inch seam, guide the fabric along the right side of the foot. (Fig. 57)

All Purpose: Foot — for a 1/8 inch seam,

guide the fabric along the right side of the

needle hole. (Fig. 58)

• Holding the Fabric For most fabrics, it is not necessary to hold the

fabric in both front and back. Merely guide the fabric with one hand from the front.

For the fine delicate fabrics, such as chiffon, georgette, and tricot, the best results will be attained by holding the fabric in front and back of the needle without pulling on it.

• Turning Corners To pivot at a corner, (Fig. 59) leave the needle

in the fabric while on the upswing so that the

stitch is almost completed, thus preventing the possibility of skipped stitches in the corner.

Lift the presser foot and pivot the fabric. Then,

lower the presser foot and continue sewing.

• Curved Seams On a curved seam (Fig. 60) use a slightly shorter

stitch length than you are using for the rest of the seams. For example, if length 2 is being used for the seams, a 1-1/2 stitch length would be preferred for curves. A smaller stitch length will add strength and elasticity to the seam.

When guiding the fabric, keep your fabric edge on the etched seam guide line directly across from the needle rather than on the forward part of the line. The seam guide may be used on an angle as shown.

• Sewing Across Heavy Seams When approaching a heavy seam, (Fig. 61) hold

the fabric upwards on an angle so that the heavy, seam falls under the upward curve of the foot. This will help feed the heavy seam through the machine.

• Ending Seam/Removal of Fabric Stitch to the edge of the fabric, then press down

the reverse lever and backstitch for a few stitchss to rsinforcs thG Gnd of th© SG3m.

Turn the hand wheel until the take-up lever is in

its highest position so that the stitch is complet

ed and the threads will pull freely. Lift the presser foot and remove the fabric by drawing the threads to the left and back,keeping them under the foot so as not to bend the needle. Cut the threads with the thread cutter on the back of the presser bar. Leave the thread ends three to four inches long.

vm. APPLI

iOr-JS OF THE STRAIGHT STITCH

SEAMS

The normal stitch length for most fabrics is

3, but the length chosen should depend on

the fabric and area of usage. Usually, heav

ier fabrics require longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics require shorter stitches. For curved seams and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch length to add strength and elasticity to

the seam.

BASTING/TOESTITCHING

Sewing a seam with a longer stitch is useful for temporary seams prior to fitting. Basting stitches also may be used when gathering in

fullness. Topstitching can be done very effectively

with the long straight stitch. For a bolder stitch, two threads of the same type can be threaded through one needle (size 14 or 16). A heavier thread such as buttonhole twist may be used for topstitching, but be sure to use a larger needle (size 16 or 18). (Fig. 62) Left needle position may be used for more

support of fabric. DARNING

Worn spots or small holes can be darned very easily. Use of an embroidery hoop is option al depending on the fabric. (Fig. 63) A fine thread is recommended so that the fabric and thread will blend together invisibly.

Trim the ragged edges from the area to be darned. Hold the threads to start, then

move the fabric slowly back and forth while

running the machine very fast to fill the area. More professional results will be attained by moving the fabric in a figure

eight pattern while sewing. After filling in the area lengthwise, reweave with crosswise stitches in the same manner.

Pattern;

Length: 2—4 Width: 0 Feed Dog; Up

Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: M

Pattern: Length: 5

Width; 0

Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: Straight Stitch

or All Purpose

Needle Position: M

Pattern; iYA

Length: 0 Width: 0 Feed Dog; Down Pressure; Darn Foot: None or All

Purpose

Needle Position; M

or L

ELASTIC THREAD SHIRRING

Wind elastic thread onto bobbin, (Fig. 64) as

shown, letting the thread pass through your fingers. The thread should be wound

smoothly without stretching. Place bobbin

in case as usual, being sure that the elastic is drawn through the tension. Use regular thread on the top of the machine. Do a trial run on the chosen fabric to test length of

stitch. Lay a piece of paper under the fabric

to keep it from gathering up as you sew.

This will enable you to sew many parallel rows of stitching without difficulty. After wards tear out the paper and the fabric will be gathered. (Fig. 65)

Pattern: YYi Length: 3—5

Width; 0

Feed Dog; Up Pressure: Normal Foot; All Purpose Needle Position: M

IX. APPLICATIONS OF THE ZIGZAG

/■

OVERCASTING

Pattern; Length; 2—4

yyjHth,; 5

Feed Dog; Up

Pressure; Normal FooT'All'Purpo“se the fabric. (Fig. 66)

Needle Position; M jhe multiple stitch zigzag is a wiser choice

Place the edge of the material underneath the opening of the sewing foot and guide raw edge along the center groove of the foot, allowing stitch to form half on and half off

for most fabrics. See page 34.

Pattern;.^

Length; 2

Width; 1 . u ..j ■ X

Feed Dog; Up ' narrow zigzag can be used in seams of

Pressure; Normal firm knits for added Strength. After sewing.

SEA.iVfiNG K.NITS

Foot; All Purpose open seam and press flat. Tiny zigzag Needle Position;M stitches can hardly be seen and the seam will

give when stretched. (Fig. 67}

Pattern;^ SEWING ON BUTTONS

Length; 0 . u- ■ .

Width; 2-5 Zigzag Stitching is a very easy ana conve-

Feed Dog; Down nient method of sewing on buttons without

Pressure; Normal a shank. (Fig. 68)

Foot; Button Foot

Needle Position; L p|gj,g button SO its left hole comes

directiy under the needle, then gently lower the button sewing foot. Take a stitch in the hole.

Raise the needle and move zigzag width dial

to the right until the needle comes down exactly over the right hole in the button.

Note: Be sure rne neteiie clean; the holes

c Vie :n:::or m tvowic the hj.nc c.nee' .0\ oefar; running t/ie

inu: -ninr’ :js:

Usually 6 to 8 stitches are adequate for securing a button in place. Stop with the

needle in the left hole. To lock the threads,

set the stitch width at 0, and take a few stitches in the left hand hole.

FORMING A THREAD SHANK

Buttons sewn on coats or jackets should

have a thread shank to make them stand away from the fabric. iFig. 69) To form a thread shank, sew over a pin or rounded

toothpick which can be inserted directly

into the button sewing foot. After stitching the button to the fabric,

remove work from under the presser foot

leaving threads about six inches from fabric.

Remove pin or toothpick. Pull t.he threads

to back of button and form a shank between

button and fabric by winding threads tightly

around the attaching stitches. Pull threads to back of the fabric and then tie thread ends securely. {Fig. 69)

SATIN STITCHING This is useful for decoration such as taper

ing, manual designed embroidery, monogramrriing, and applique. (Fig. 70)

The satin stitch, which is a very close zigzag

stitch, is obtained by setting the stitch

length as near to "0" as possible with

out stopping the feeding action. The setting will vary for different fabrics. It may be desirable to loosen the upper tension slightly to cause the threads to lock underneath, in order to make the top surface look especial ly smooth. For lightweight fabrics, place paper underneath the fabric while sewing for

best results.

TAPERING/CREATIVE EMBROIDERY Tapering is done by gradually increasing and

decreasing the stitch width while sewing. {Fig. 71) By this method, tapered mono

grams and other interesting designs can be created. {Fig. 72) For tapered monograms

run the machine fast while turning the width

dial slowly from narrow to wide and back.

Pattern

Length: ’/i—

Width: 1-5 Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal

Foot: Embroidery

Needle Position: M

Pattern: Length; Уз—'^

Width: 0-5

Feed Dog; Up

Pressure; Normal

Foot; Embroidery

NeedSe Position; M,

L or R

First, learn this stroke by letting the fabric guide straight. Then, learn to pivot the fabric as you are tapering by holding the fabric at one point. Various strokes can be

combined to form letters and designs. Varie gated thread can give attractive results.

Pattern;

Length:

Width; 0-5

Feed Dog; Up Pressure; Normal Foot: Embroidery Needle Position: M, L or R

MANUAL EMBROIDERY DESIGNS Different designs can be made by turning the

stitch width dial between 0 and 5. By run ning the machine at a constant speed and

turning the dial in a definite rhythm, various designs can be created. (Fig. 73)

Pattern: Length; 0 Width: 1—5 Feed Dog; Down Pressure: Darn Foot: Embroidery or None

Needle Position; M, L or R

FREEHAND MONOGRAMMING For giving garments and linens a personaliz

ed touch, first transfer the design to the

right side of the fabric. An embroidery hoop is recommended especially for soft

fabrics and toweling. (Fig. 74)

In order to monogram, you must move the fabric slowly and run the machine rapidly. Monogramming is like writing by moving the paper under a stationary pen. Guide the fabric slowly so that the zigzag falls close together like a satin stitch, but be careful that the stitches do not pile up. When guid ing from side to side, move fabric slightly faster to avoid a heavy area.

Practice by forming loops. Once this is accomplished any letter is easy.

Sometimes the use of paper or non-woven

interfacing under the fabric may make

guiding the fabric easier. The paper or

interfacing may be tom or cut away at the completion of the monogram. When mono

gramming towels, cellophane placed on the top will help cover loops and make the monogram smooth. Pull or cut away remaining cellophane when finished.

APPLIQUE

Applying decorative shapes of fabric scraps to household articles and clothing is a very interesting way of trimming an otherwise plain article. First, trace the design on

fabric to be appliqued, then pin or

baste it securely in place on gar ment. With a small straight stitch

or narrow zigzag, sew around the transferred design. (Fig. 75)

After excess fabric is trimmed

away, sew around the applique with a satin stitch. For a smooth curve, stop frequently at the inside edge of the curve to pivot the fabric slightly. Corners look much better when the point is stitched by pivot ing rather than just turned.

As with all decorative stitches, paper may be used to give more body to the fabric when stitching and can be torn away when the

applique is completed. (Fig. 76)

GATHERING OVER A CORD Ordinary gathering with a basting

stitch often breaks while pulling

in fullness. A small zigzag across a

cord such as crochet thread or carpet thread, gives a much stronger cord for gathering fullness into fabrics. {Fig. 77) Once the gathers

have been stitched in place, the cord can be pulled out in order to eliminate bulk. (Fig. 78)

Pattern; Length: 1 Width; 0-1 Feed Dog: Up Pressure; Normal Foot; All Purpose Needle Position; M

Step 2 Pattern:

Length: ’A—Vs

Width: 2-4

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure; No.''mal Foot: All Purpose

or Embroidery

Needle Position; M

Pattern: Length; 2

Width: 3

Feed Dog: Up Pressure; Normal Foot: Embroidery

Needle Position; L or R

Pattern: Length: 1

Width: 1-2

Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: M

LACE APPLICATION

Attaching laces or trims adds a special touch to lingerie, dresses, or linens. Pin or baste laces in place

easing or mitering corners where

necessary.

A straight edged lace or braid has a convenient line to follow when sew

ing. (Fig. 79) When using a scallop

ed edged lace follow the design of ■ the lace for an almost invisible application. (Fig. 80)

Note: Try Multiple Stitch Zigzag.

Overlook, Elastic Edge

Stitch, Feather, Stretch Overlook or Rick-Rack for different effects.

Pattern:

Length: Vi

Width: 5

Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: Embroidery

Needle Position: M

FLUTTER HEM An unusual way of hemming or

finishing edges of tricot or soft knits is by a flutter edge. Hemming in this manner is just like over

casting an edge, but the fabric is stretched in back and in front of the needle as you sew. For best

results, pull the fabric equally, making sure the needle goes over the edge. (Fig. 81) When you stop’ to reposition your hands, keep the needle in the fabric. (Fig. 82)

X. BUTTONHOLES

Various fabrics require various methods of sewing 83 buttonholes. Four different methods are given

below, with suggested uses. If you are in doubt as to which method is best for your fabric, test the methods in question and choose the best according to the finished appearance.

PREPARATION For the best results, a good quality mercerized

cotton thread should be used. Polyester threads often result in puckered or heavy unattractive buttonholes. The finer your fabric is, the finer

your cotton thread should be. An interfacing should be used under the buttonholes to give body, 34 to strengthen, and to help them withstand wear. To establish the correct length of the buttonhole,

add the diameter of the button (A), plus the thickness of the button (B), plus 1/8 inch for the bartacks. (Fig. 83) The length may be marked on the garment with a basting stitch, tailors chalk, or transparent tape, as shown. (Fig. 84) Another way

to make sure that all buttonholes will be the same

size is to cut a piece of cardboard as wide as the buttonhole foot and long enough to make the

distance between the toe of the white slide and the

cardboard the size buttonhole needed. This method works for buttonholes up to 1-1/8 inches

long. Horizontal buttonholes should extend 1/8

inch beyond the center line of the garment. (Fig.

85) Vertical buttonholes are placed so that the

cutting space of the buttonhole is directly on the center line. (Fig. 86) Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of the garment fabric before making any buttonholes on your garment. On your test sample, duplicate the thickness found in

the garment and be sure to include the interfacing. The test sample should help determine the length

needed for the button to pass through easily,and

the stitch length for the particular fabric. As with

the satin stitch, the stitches should be close together, but not so close that they pile up. Be 86 sure to use the buttonhole foot.

—»|[-— 1/8 inch

Center line of Garment

BUILT-IN BUTTONHOLER

This buttonhole eliminates the need for pivoting the fabric. It is used most often on light and medium woven fabrics.

1. Set the buttonhole control dial at the

first buttonhole picture. Lower the needle into the mark at the front end of the buttonhole. Lower the presser foot. A few stitches will be made for the bartack, then the stitching will automatically continue up the right side of the buttonhole in reverse.

Stop when the stitching reaches the

top end of marked buttonhole. At

this position the machine will be

sewing in reverse.

2. With the needle up, select the second buttonhole picture. A few bartack

stitches will be made then, stitches will continue forward sewing the left side

of the buttonhole. White nylon slide will run into the cardboard to prevent sewing into the bartack. (Fig. 87)

3. To lock the stitch, m.ake sure the needle is out of the fabric. Make sure the buttonhole control dial is at M and take a few stitches.

4. -Score the buttonhole with the back edge of the seam ripper several times. To prevent cutting through the bartack, insert a straight pin through the bartack. Cut buttonhole open with the seam ripper. (Fig. 88)

,'Vore.- Stitch IVidth Control shouui

ti'ivcys hr at "

^vir-v.

this uuttonnole.

Pattern;

Length: Buttonhole

Width; 0

F 66d D og! U p

Pressure: Normal

Foot; Buttonhole

Needle Position:

1 2

□TJ‘

■M

Adjustment of stitch density:

Check the stitch density on a scrap of fabric. If density is too open or too close, re-adjust first the density of the left side

by stitch length dial, and, if the right side density is not same as the left side, the density of the right side may be varied with a compensator dial located near the bobbin winder, in order to make it match with the left side.

TURN-AROUND BUTTONHOLES

It is possible to make small and dainty

buttonholes if you desire or repair damaged buttonholes. This entails a slight shifting of the cloth but with some

practice, good buttonholes can be achieved.

1. Mark the length of the buttonhole on

the cloth as shown in figure 89.

2. Set the needle position to the left and

your stitch length dial near "1/4" or the density you desire.

3. Choose the desired width of your

buttonhole. Example; if you want a buttonhole with a width of #3 setting on the stitch

width dial, divide this setting in half, or

1%.

4. Start at your marked position, sew down on the left side of buttonhole to the other end of marking. Leave the

needle in the cloth at the right side of stitches and rotate your cloth. Lift the presser foot and slide the bottom of the foot back to the front.

5. Lower the foot and raise the needle. Reset your stitch width dial to bartack,

in this case the #3 setting, set your

feed to DOWN, sew several stitches.

6. Raise the needle, raise feed to UP, reset

the zigzag width to the initial setting, in this case #1’/a, and repeat the above {4} and (5) procedures to sew on other buttonhole side and bartack.

7. Lock threads by stitching a few stitches

at 0 width. Cut buttonhole as indi cated previously.

When using this method over a buttonhole which has already been slit or damaged, be sure to hold the buttonhole open and allow the needle to go off the edge of the fabric. Step 4 is all that may be needed to repair damaged buttonholes.

fc-

Step I Step 2 Step 3 Step 4

Pattern:

Length; Buttonhole

Width: 2%-B-2'A-5-0

Feed dog: Up—Down—Up—Down Pressure: Normal Foot; Embroidery or Buttonhole Needle Position; L

CORDED BUTTONHOLES

Cording gives a reinforced raised button hole. It is excellent for use on bulky, woven fabric, or knits in which the stitch

ing often gets buried and makes cutting difficult. On knits, a corded buttonhole will help keep the fabric from stretching out of shape.

Choose a heavy cotton crochet thread or buttonhole twist to use for the cording.

Proceed as for either built-in buttonhole

(page 29) or the turnaround buttonhole (page 30), having the cord under the

presser foot in such a way that the zigzag stitch covers the cord. When pivoting the buttonhole (Fig. 90 ), also swing the cord around to follow under the second side.

At the completion of the buttonhole snip the excess cord close to the bartack on woven fabrics. For knitted garments, always pull the cords to the wrong side by using a darning needle or needle threader, and knot the cord ends before clipping.

Built-in Buttonholer: Pattern:

Length: Buttonhole Width: 0

Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: Buttonhole Needle Position: [j-p-M

Turn-around Buttonhole:

Pattern:

Length: Buttonhole

Width: 2y2-5-2y2-5-0

Feed dog: Up—Down—Up—Down Pressure: Normal Foot: Buttonhole or Embroidery Needle Position: L

■¡orjs O'

‘HE BUND HEM STITCH

HEMMING

The blind hem stitch provides a durable

hem finish that is almost invisible on garments, drapes, and curtains. It is done easily with straight or slightly curved hems. With a little practice it will be a very quick and easy hem application and the hem will never need repairing.

Procedure: (1) Prepare raw edge of hem in desired

manner, such as overcast, 1/4 inch stitched under, pinked, hem tape, or

just plain. (Fig. 91—Step 1)

(2) Fold hem up desired length. Baste or

pin 1/2 inch from upper edge. Press

in place. (Fig. 91—Step 2)

(3) Fold hem back toward right side of

fabric leaving about 1/4 inch extend

ed. (Fig. 91—Step 3)

(4) Adjust your stitch width and needle

position (Fig. 92) so that the zigzag bite of the stitch just slightly catches

the fold of the fabric. The straight stitches should be formed on the single thickness of fabric, and the zigzag bite should catch just barely into the fold of the fabric at the left.

(5) When stitching is completed, (Fig. 93)

remove fabric from machine and turn

to right side. Press completed hem.

When hemming an A-line skirt, place a

machine basting stitch along the raw edge of the hem. At an ironing board, fold up the hem, matching the seams. Ease in the excess fabric by pulling on basting thread.

Press with steam, then apply hem, tape.

Baste or pin hem 1/2 inch from taped edge, then continue into step 3.

StPn n

Step 1

K rT’-T-

Mf:

Pattern: AA

Length: 2-2%

Width: 2-4 Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: R or M

ixi

1 t

t t

1 I

) I t I

» I I t

>> s>

Pattern: tiA Length; 2—3

Width: 5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure; Normal

Foot: AN Purpose

Needle Position:

Pattern: AA

Length; 2—3

Width: 5 Feed Dog: Up Pressure; Normal Foot; All Purpose

Needle Position; M

r-^T

<j> 4>

*T* .*Y*

M or R

SHELL TUCK

The blind hem stitch gives a very effective and easy way to make a shell tuck for lingerie, pillowcases, and

decorative finishes. (Fig, 94) This works well on knits or on the bias of soft, woven fabrics. A single

folded bias tape may be tucked in this manner, and

then applied under a fold for a decorative hem on

pillowcases or applied with the facings at the neckline or armhole for a decorative finish.

Set the upper tension dial to a little bit tighter posi tion than normal. Fold under the edge where the shell tuck is to be created. Place the bulk of the fabric to the right of the needle with the folded edge to the left. Place the fabric so that the folded edge

Will be guiding into the center cut of the foot. The

straight stitches will form on the fabric, and the zig

zag bite will swing to the left off of the folded edge.

(Fig. 94) The shell edge is created as the needle

swings back onto the fabric. The size of the "shell'' can be varied by changing the stitch length.

DECORATIVE EFFECTS

By sewing two adjacent rows of blind hem stitching on lace or ribbon attractive decorations are created.

(Fig. 95) The stitch may be pivoted when the zigzag

bite swings to the left and the points matched in the second row.

Another variation alternates the zigzag bites in the center of the straight stitched segment. The stitch may also be pivoted after two straight stitches to form a snowflake-like pattern.

A.. A.. A—

V V V

—\j y y

_A_jVJV_

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot: Embroidery Needle Position: R

Pattern: As desired

Length; » <’

Width: 'I I' Feed Dog: up Pressure; Normal Foot: Embroidery Needle Position: M

TOPSTITCH EFFECTS A new kind of topstitching effect can be produced by

couching a strand or two of pearl cotton embroidery floss, or yarn with the blind hem stitch. Simply guide the cord through the left groove of the embroidery

foot so that the blind hem stitch sews over the cord

and not through it. The straight stitches of the blind hem stitch will bury themselves along the right side of the cord and the small zigzag bite will swing over

the cord. The sewing thread should match as closely

as possible to blend into the fabric. (Fig. 96)

DECORATIVE STITCH COMBINATIONS Combining rows of decorative stitch patterns is an

easy, inexpensive way to create your own braids and trims for garments and household articles. Blending or contrasting colors of thread may be used to com

pliment the color of the fabric. Illustrations will give some of the attractive stitch combinations.

(Fig. 97)

XII. APPLICATIONS 0=^ THE MULTPLE STITCH ZIGZAG

OVERCASTING The multiple stitch zigzag is an excellent

choice for overcasting. {Fig. 98) It keeps the fabric flat and prevents raveling. For most fabrics, this stitch is better than the zigzag stitch for overcasting.

The stitch should fall right at the raw edge of the fabric. Feed the fabric under the

Pattern ■..W. Length; 14-114

Width: 5

Teed Dog; Up

Pressure: Normal Foot; All Purpose

Needle Position: M,

L or R

presser foot by guiding the raw edge along

the right hand side of the hole in the presser

foot.

E?WWWWW

PATCHING

The multiple stitch zigzag is an excellent stitch for patching. It is stronger than the zigzag and the tiny stitches bury into the fabric to make an almost invisible stitch when using matching thread.

Place the patch over the right side of the worn or damaged area. Sew around the

patch with the multiple stitch zigzag letting the last stitch to the right overcast the edge of the patch. (Fig. 99) When turning corners

leave the needle in the fabric at the corner. (Fig.100) Usually this will be the furthest stitch to the right or left. In this way, the corners are doubly stitched and very strong. When the patch is stitched in place, trim away the excess worn fabric on the wrong side of the patch. (Fig. 101)

A/ote.- Try Feather Stitch for knits.

MENDING A TEAR OR INSTANT DARNING

The multiple stitch zigzag provides a strong and easy repair for torn garments. It gives an almost invisible mend, especially when a fine darning thread is used.

To mend a tear, hold the torn edges close

together and stitch down the middle. (Fig.

102) If the tear is guided under the slot in the middle of the presser foot, stitching will be equal on both sides. If necessary, sew again on either side of the first row of stitch

ing making sure the needle catches the stitch in the center. With very worn or frayed

fabric, place a piece of lightweight interfac ing or cotton batiste under the tear for reinforcement.

A/o te; Try Feather Stitch for knits.

Pattern; ;V-A

Length; ¿—1

Width: 5 Feed Dog; Up Pressure: Normal Foot; All Purpose Needle Position: M,

Pattern: ;\\\ Length; Near 0—14

Width: 5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot; All Purpose Needle Position; WS,

L or R

102

mmmmm.'

elastic application

Applying elastic to lingerie or soft knit fabrics is easy when using the multiple stitch zigzag. Cut the elastic 2 inches smaller than your waist measurement. Overlap the raw ends to form a circle and stitch with a tiny zigzag to form a box as shown. Fold the elastic into quarters or eighths and mark with pins. Do the same with the waistline of the garment. (Fig. 103) Place the elastic about V2 inch from the top edge of the fabric, matching the pins. Place under the presser foot and begin stitching. As you stitch, place the forefinger of each hand on the fabric at either side of the presser foot. (Fig. 104) Pull the fabric out exactly at the point where the needle is sewing over the elastic and the fabric. This will ease your fabric and elastic together as you sew. The amount of ease is dependent on how much you ease the fabric. In this

way you never need to stretch the elastic, which can be damaged and stretched out of shape. Trim off excess fabric above elastic near the stitches.

Note: Try Overlook stitch or Feather stitch for girdles.

Pattern; Length;

Width; 5 Feed Dog; Up Pressure; Normal Foot; All Purpose Needle Position; M

UNDERSTITCHING FACINGS

The multiple stitch zigzag is an excellent choice for understitching and eliminating

bulk in facing seam allowances. (Fig. 105) After attaching the facing to the garment, trim and clip the seam allowance as usual. Press the seam allowances toward the facing and use the multiple stitch zigzag close to the seam, stitching through the facing and the seam allowances. Using a matching

thread, the stitch will blend into the fabric and prevent excess bulk. This is much more successful than a straight stitch for understitching. It really helps to keep the facings from rolling.

[slots' Try Fssthsr Stitch for knits.

Pattern: :\W

DECORATIVE EFFECTS

As with the blind hem stitch, the multiple stitch zigzag can be used for many decora tive combinations, (Fig. 106) If the stitch is pivoted when the needle reaches the far left or right of its swing, and the points are carefully matched, a tracery diamond shape results.

On the other hand, if rows of the multiple stitch zigzag are sewn with the points falling directly under each other, a wavypattern is produced.

Flowers may also be produced. Start in center; pivot at points shown. Add four more petals if desired.

106

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\/ /\

/ / / / /

// ^ ^

<< < <

\\ \ \ \

>>>>>

/ / / / /

<<<<<

\ \\ \\

>>»>

/ / / / /

<<<<<

\ \ N \ \

>»>>

y / / / /

/ / / / /

Pattern; Length; I-2V2 Width; 3-5 Feed Dog; Up Pressure; Normal Foot; All Purpose Needle Position; M

<' '>

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XIII. APPLICATIONS OF THE OVERLOOK STITCH

SEAMS

This stitch gives a finished 1/4 inch seam

in one step. For knits, it gives strength and elasticity to the seams and prevents the curling of the fabric that often occurs with 5/8 inch opened seams. It is most applicable to soft, thin knits such as nylon or acetate knits, but may be used on other fabrics as well. Always make

test seams with this stitch.

For woven fabric, the overlock stitch

gives strength and prevents raveling. It can be used on woven goods to replace flat felled or French seams.

For patterns with 1/4 inch seams:

(Fig. 107) Place the raw edge of the fabric under the presser foot so that as the needle swings to the right, it comes down at the raw edge. This will result in an

enclosed seam allowance.

For patterns with 5/8 inch seams: (Fig.

108) The seam allowances may be trimm ed to Vi inch either before or after sewing.

If trimming before sewing, proceed as

above. Otherwise, sew the seam with the

raw edge of the fabric on the etched guide

line (Any time you use the full

width of a particular stitch, you should readjust the raw edge of the fabric 1/8

inch to the left.) Afterward, trim the excess fabric near the stitching. This method is actually easier than the over-

edge method for fabrics that curl.

/vore.' On soft, loose knits, the fabric

may seem to wave or ripple. If

tnis occurs, reduce the pressure.

(Paqe 17.)

Pattern: v/.-

Width: 4-5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure; Normal

Toot; All Purpose

Needle Position: M, L or R

107

108

' 537 , „

III

109

Pattern:

Width: 4—5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose

Needle Position: M,

t .-Jf.-.':’-- -~.br r.rhhC'TÌ“i;

NYLON TRICOT SEAMS

The overlock stitch is excellent for use on fine fabrics such as nylon tricot. Lingerie or tricot seams should only be about 1/8

inch finished width .

L or R

If your pattern has wide seams, trim them down ‘to /Л inch while Cutting out the pattern. Guide the raw edges of the fabric into the center of the presser foot. On the right, the needle will stitch over the edge resulting in a finished rolled seam of 1/8 inch. If a pucker results when stitching,

a looser tension is needed.

Stitching in this manner can also be used

to form a rolled hem on the raw edge of a scarf.

Pattern: r:':;

Width: 4—5 Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Norma! Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: M, L or R

Pattern

Lengin: E Width: 5 Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose

Needle Position: M, L or R

,111

APPLYING ELASTIC The overlock stitch gives a very finished

appearance to elastic application. (Fig.

10P1 Sfip inctriirtinnc for olaqtir nnnlirn-

tion on Page 35, but use this stitch instead

of the multiple stitch zigzag.

LADDER STITCH This stitch gives a very effective means of

sewing fake furs and soft leathers to

produce a seam with no bulk. It is also very effective in a contrasting color as a decorative accent for special seams, such as raglan sleeves or for applying an edge trim. (Fig. 110)

Place the bulk of your fabric to the right of the needle and the raw edge so that the needle will swing off the fabric at the left. (Fig. Ill ) The left side of the stitch will be formed off of the fabric to provide a very strong seam with -only a tiny seam

allowance. For better results loosen up

per tension. Pull the seam open from the right side until the "rungs" of the ladder

appear. The "rungs" become a decorative

accent if a contrasting thread is used. On

fake fur, the nap can be pulled up with a

needié to hide the stitches and create an invisible seam.

HEMSTITCHING

By using a very large needle and a fine thread an openwork effect can be attained which is beautiful for sewing the hems

into tablecloths, napkins, placemats, handkerchiefs, etc. Use a large needle, size 18 or 20, and a fine cotton thread.

Tighten the upper tension slightly, until

the stitch looks better on the underside

than on top. (You will be sewing with your fabric face side down.;

Turn up 1 inch then turn up 1 inch again to form a hem of a double thickness of fabric. The bulk in corners can be elimi

nated by trimming away the excess, as shown, (Fig. 112) after having folded the fabric on all sides. Stitch from the wrong side, so that the straight stitch forms on

the single layer and the zigzag bites on the double layer. (Fig. 113) Stitch all the way to the edge of the fabric along all sides. (Fig. 114)

Pattern;

Width: 3-5 Feed Dog; Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: M

113

112

114

À • '

; ]l inch

^ |l inch

■5 c

Cut out

’

/■

TOPSTITCHING The overlock stitch can be used to top-

stitch non-raveling fabrics such as felt or

leather into place for appliques or

pockets. Stitch so that the straight part of the

stitch is formed over the edge of the leather, and only the zigzag part holds it in place. (Fig. 115)

Width; 3-5

Feed Dog; Up Pressure; Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: M, L or R

XIV. APPLICATIONS OF THE STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH

SEAMS

Pattern: WiOin: 0

Feed Dog; Up Pressure; Normal Foot; All Purpose holes and crotch seams. For active wear Needle Position: M guch as ski pants and girdle fabrics which

This stitch may be used on knits and woven fabrics (Fig. 116), in areas of stress as a reinforcement stitch. It is excellent for curved seams such as arm-

endure a lot of stress in bending and

stretching, this stitch may be used for

seaming throughout the garment.

Pattern:

Width: u Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose H7)

Needle Position: M

TOPSTITCHJNG Because this stitch is heavier than an

ordinary straight stitch, it is ideal for topstitching, particularly on knits. (Fig.

«V». t

XV. APPLICATIONS OF THE INTERLOCK LINGERIE SEAM

For a very fine, delicate seam in nylon tricot

or jersey, the interlock is used. Lingerie or

tricot seams should only be about 1/8 inch

in finished width.

If your pattern has wide seams, trim them down to 1/4 inch while cutting out the pattern. Guide the raw edges of the fabric into the center slot of the presser foot. On

the right, the needle will stitch over the edge

resulting in a finished 1/8 inch. (Fig. 118)

Pattern : jjj'

Length; 1

Width; 5

Feed Dog: LJp Pressure; Normal Foot; All Purpose

Needle Position: M, L or R

INSERTING LACE

A very fine lace insertion can be made with the interlock. As in applying lace with the zigzag stitch, follow the straight line or the design of the lace. See page 27. Sew so that

the straight stitch of the interlock, is on the

fabric and the small zigzag catches into the lace. (Fig. 119) Pattern:iAA

Length: Î

Width; 2

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure; Normal

Foot; All Purpose

Needle Position: M, L or R

SHELL TUCK The interlock stitch can produce a very fine

delicate shell tuck, especially nice on soft

knits. It is not necessary to work with the bulk of the fabric to the right. Simply fold under the edge where the shell tuck ¡s to be created. Place the fabric, with the bulk to the left, so that the folded edge will be guided into the center cut of the foot.

The single straight stitch will form on the

fabric, and the zigzag will swing to the right

of the folded edge. The shell edge is created.

as the needle swings back into the fabric.

(Fig. 120)

Pattern; AM

Length ; 2

Width: 5

reçu LJug. up

Pressure; Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: M, L or R

120

XVI. APPLICATIONS OF THE ELASTIC EDGING STITCH

This stitch is very effective for overcasting, edgestitching, etc, on knits and very stretchy fabrics, also, for decoration.

TOPSTITCHING A decorative topstitch can be produced with

the elastic edging stitch. Stitch around the structural lines of the garments for a dramat

ic effect. Topstitch a braid or decorative inset with the elastic edging to add an addi

tional decorative flair. (Fig. 121)

Pattern ; -V --

L-enotn: £

Width; 5

Feed Dog; Up Pressure: Normal Foot: Embroidery Needle Position: L or R

EDGING As with the stretch blind hem, the elastic

edging stitch can be used for a decorative edge on place mats, napkins and tablecloths. Proceed as you would with the stretch blind hem stitch, see page 44, but use the elastic

edging stitch instead. (Fig. 122)

Pattern;

Lenath: 5

Width: 3-5 Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot; Embroidery

Needle Position: M, L or R

* i(k« 1 in

XVII. APPLICATIONS OF THE FEATHER STITCH

This stitch is extremely versatile for swim suits, seams, attaching stretchy lace, and

lingerie and girdle seams. FAGOTING

An open work effect can be attained with fagoting. Slit the fabric where fagoting is desired. Overcast the edges of the fabric and turn back about 1/4 inch. Press. Sew so that the stitches to the far left and the far

Width: 5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure; Normal

Foot; Embroidery Needle Position: M

right catch into the folded edges alternately

and the stitches in the center catch into the space between the two folded edges. (Fig.

123)

BASEBALL

1 Decide on the radius of the baseball to

determine the placement of the cello phane tape and thumbtack.

2. Pierce a piece of tape with a thumbtack so the sticky side of tape, and flat side of tack will be against the bed of the machine.

3. Place tape with tack the desired dis

tance from the needle as determined in

step 1. (Fig. 124)

4. On fabric, mark two perpendicular lines to mark the center of the baseball. (Fig.

125)

125

5. Pierce center of baseball with tack.

6. Begin sewing and complete perfect circle

creating the outline of baseball.

7. To make the internal stitching lines, measure two points equidistant from the

edge of circle, and on the same plane as the center of the circle. (Fig. 126)

126

8. Place thumbtack on one point and lower

the presser foot on the edge of the circle. Sew until last stitch reaches the other

side of the circle.

ncspcjcii the above for the other interna!

stitching line.

10. This is a great way to outline any

127

circular shape.. Try some of the other patterns, and make your own coasters and other decorative uses. (Fig. 127)

Pattern; ■

Lengtn: 5

Width: 2-5

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot: Embroidery Needle Position; M

XVm. APPLICATION OF THE STRETCH OVERLOOK

128

129.

On fabrics that are bulkier or heavier, the stretch overlook is a better choice than the overlook. In all methods proceed as you

would for the overlook, see page 36, except feed the fabric with the bulk to the right. The stretch is less dense and will prevent soft stretchy knits from rippling.

Pattern: ^

Width; 5 Feed Dog: Up Pressure; Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position; M, L or R

XIX. APPLICATION 0“ THE RICK-RACK

TOPSTITCHING A decorative topstitch can be produced with

the rick-rack stitch. Stitch around the structural lines of the garment for a special effect. Topstitch braid or a decorative inset

to add an additional creative flair. (Fig. 129) Pattern

____ _________

Width; 4-5 Feed Dog: Up Pressure: Normal Foot: All Purpose Needle Position; M, L or R

XX. APPLICATIONS OF THE STRETCH BLIND HEM

HEMMING

The stretch blind hem stitch gives a

stretchy, durable hem finish to knit

fabrics. The two tiny zigzag stitches enable the hem to stretch with the fabric. It may also prevent woven fabrics from

raveling. Proceed as for the regular blind hem stitch on page 32. (Fig. 130)

EDGING The stretch blind hem stitch can be used

as an edging, like the blanket stitch done by hand. By using a fairly short stitch length, the stitches lie very close together. It can be used for overcasting and finish

ing the edges of tablecloths, napkins and ruffles. The edge may be turned up about 14 inch and then overcast with the stretch blind hem. Cord or pearl cotton may be used to give a raised effect to the stitches. (Fig. 131) Simply place 2—4 strands of

pearl cotton or embroidery floss under the foot and stitch over It.

Pattern:

Length: 2 Width; 2-3 Feed Dog: Up

Pressure; Normal

Foot: All Purpose Needle Position: M

Pattern uiW« Length: '/2 Width: 5 Feed Dog: Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot; Embroidery Needle Position: M

or R

130

EYELASH BUTTONHOLE

A unique way of reinforcing buttonholes on loosely woven fabrics or buttonholes in which the stitches have been accidently cut, is to overcast them with a short

stretch blind hem stitch (Fig. 132) Over cast each side of the buttonhole so the far

right stitch falls into the opening of the

buttonhole and the small zigzag stitches cover the previous buttonhole side. On completion of one side of the buttonhole,

pivot the fabric with the needle at the far right in the opening of the buttonhole at the bartack. Sew up the other side in the

same manner.

Pattern: Length: ’/2

Width: 5 Feed Dog; Up Pressure; Normal Foot; Embroidery Needle Position; IV!

or R

132

XXI. TWIN NEEDLE SVVlNi

133

135

TWIN NEEDLE SEWING EFFECTS To use a twin needle in the machine,

remove the single needle, and insert the twin needle into clamp with the flat side to the back. (Fig. 133) Threading of the machine when using a twin needle is the

same as normal with these exceptions;

(Page 11)

1. Place thread, matching or contrasting

in color, on each spool pin.

2. Hold both threads together as you follow through thread guides as

normal, but separate the threads at the tension. Pass on thread through the left disc and one thread through the right disc. (Fig. 134)

3. Then pass threads through arm thread

guide. (Fig. 135)

When using a twin needle, set the stitch

Width dial at 2 or less to prevent needle

breakage with a wide stitch. Twin needle settings are marked in white and red on the stitch width dial — Do not use red marked numbers when using twin needle.

r/pra.. presser roji ara //; p/jc

PIN TUCKS

Narrow tucks, sewn with thread that

matches the fabric, produce subtle decora

tion on plain fabrics. Using the twin

needle, sew straight lines on the fabric guiding the edge of the presser foot along each successive tuck to make parallel rows. Soft fabrics will be pulled to form a soft crease. To achieve a tuck on a fabric, increase the lower tension slightly. Heavier

fabrics will produce two lines of straight stitching. Attractive pin tucks are made with the multiple stitch zigzag as well as with a straight stitch. (Fig. 136)

N/nt: Transparent tape makes straight

tines easy to sew. Just sew with

the presser foot guiding along the edge of the tape. When sewing is completed pee! off tape. (Fig.

136)

Pattern:

Length: 2—4 Width: 0-2 Feed Dog: High Pressure: Normal Foot: Embroidery or

All Purpose

Needle Position: M

136

DECORATIVE TUCKS OR DESIGNS

Any stitch can be used with the twin needle for decorative effects. (Fig. 137)

Most attractive are the multiple stitch zigzag and blind hem stitch for fancy tucks. The satin stitch or tapered zigzag designs in two colors are effective for creative trims.

Ri^'vemher to use no more than a 2 zigzac

r.'.',7r/7 fo' nvin needle sewing.

Pattern: Any

Length: ’/2—5

Width: 0-2

Feed Dog: Up

Pressure: Normal

Foot: All Purpose or

Embroidery

Needle Position: M

137

I I > I

f I

FREE-ARM SEWING

For sewing tubular and hard-to-reach areas, use your machine as a free-arm. Stitching button

holes or sewing buttons on a cuff or neckband; topstitching a sleeve; edge finishes on sleeves,

pantlegs and waistlines; darning and patching knees, elbows; and other areas of wear on

children's clothing become as easy as sewing a common seam when you have the free-arm at your fingertips. I llustrations show some examples of sewing with the free-arm.

138

XXIII. USE OF THE ACCESSORIES

CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT

The cording and zipper foot is used to sew in zippers and insert cording.

Zipper: Set the needle position at "L" or "R”

as needed to sew the right side or the

left side of zipper respectively, so that

the foot sews very close to the zipper teeth.(Fig. 140)

To insert cording:

I.Set the needle position at "R" and

make the welting by sandwiching the

cord into a bias strip of fabric. Stitch close to cord. (Fig. 141 j

2. Set the needle position at "L". Sandwich the welting between two layers of fabric with right sides

together. Stitch a second time. The

needle stitches close to the cord

through all thicknesses. (Fig. 142)

139

142

QUILTING GUIDE

Parallel straight lines are easy to sew

with the quilting guide. (Fig. 143) To

attach the guide, slide it into the black

clip at the back of the presser foot

shank. Adjust the curved bar to the

desired distance from the needle. Sew the first line of stitching as desired, and then for the succeeding rows let the guide follow along the previous line of stitching. A straight stitch, zigzag, or any other stitch may be used.

XXIV. ADDITIONAL S^ECiAL

l44

146

145

ROLLER FOOT

Ideal for use on vinyls, imitation

leathers, jerseys, synthetics, velvets and denim. This foot helps keep .both layers of fabric feeding the same. On very slippery fabrics, the roller foot helps prevent skipped stitches. (Fig.

144)

OVERCAST FOOT

Zigzag overcasting may tend to roll the

edge of some fabrics causing a bulky edge. The overcast foot helps to produce a flat edge. The bar behind

the needle hole holds the threads

firmly in a full width zigzag or overlook stitch to keep the stitches from drawing tightly together. (Fig. 145)

BLIND HEM FOOT

For all those who find machine blind hemming difficult, this foot gives a clear guide for the fold of fabric to

follow. The blind hem foot is a fine

accessory for those who like the

strength and durability of machine

hemming. (Fig. 146)

147

148

ROLLED HEM FOOT Recommended for narrow rolled hems

on scarves, shirts, linens, and linings. This foot makes a very tedious hand

sewing job very easy to do on a sewing machine. (Fig. 147)

FRINGE-FOOT

Thick chenille type loops can add interest to appliqued flowers and animals. Used with a satin stitch this foot gives a plush texture to a design. Also used for hemstitching and tailor tacking, (Fig. 148)

XXV. CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR SEWING MACHINE

1. CHANGING NEEDLES

Always use the correct type of needle for

your machine. Always use the appropriate size needle for

the thread and fabric you are using.

Always change the needle after every

garment. Needles dull easily and when dull, will

damage both your fabric and your machine. Many service probfems are the result of rough spots on the needle plates and hook. Always put needle in machine correctly.

It will cause stitches to be skipped if it is inserted incorrectly. Pulling on fabric while sewing will bend

the needle, which will subsequently damage the needle.

149

2. CLEANING

a. After each garment is completed, a light

cleaning is recommended. Use a lint

brush to remove all lint from the open areas in the bed of the machine, especial ly in the grooves of the feed dog. Push the needle plate release button. The needle plate will pop up to remove. The

area around the feed dog is one of the most important areas to dean. Lack of maintainance may cause serious damage to your machine.

b. Keep machine covered when not in use to

prevent accumulation of dust and dirt particles.

151

OILING

a. Use a pure oil, one that has no detergents.

It is best to buy oil manufactured specifi-

uaiiy lui dcwiii^ mauiiiifc uoc. wuicf wn:> will eventually cause the mechanisms to

lock up.

b. Your machine should be oiled every

month. Using a sewing machine oil, place

a single drop on each oiling point as illust rated, specifically those points marked in red on your machine. (Fig. 150, 151)

Run the machine to allow the oil to pen

etrate. Your machine cannot be over oiled but excess oil may drip and stain your garment.

c. Before oilmg the machine remove the

following:

(1) The needle

(2) The presser foot

ТЧ ^ I

/n\

i liC pidLC.

\o/ After you have finished oiling the machine replace the bobbin case. The needle plate should then be placed into its normal position, followed by the presser

foot and needle.

a >• M ■ •«<4 M W • »4 11^/4 ^ r* ^ I I

152

Loose

1 1

MTight

4. CHANGING THE LIGHT BULB

Open the face plate by pulling towards the left.

Turn the light bulb counterclockwise to remove.

Replace the bulb by turning clockwise. (Fig. 152)

A majority of service calls could be avoided by following the above procedures and by first

checking to see that the machine is:

1. Threaded properly top and-bottom.

2. That the bobbin is wound evenly.

3. That the needle is in the machine correctly.

4. Proper cleaning and oiling.

XXVI. MINOR PROBLEMS AND THEIR SOLUTIONS

1. SKIPPED STITCHES

Skipped stitches have become a problem in recent years, especially with the appearance of knit fabrics and poly ester threads on the market. Skipped stitches normally

can be traced to four basic causes: A. The Needle

(1) The needle is dull or bent. Change it. (2) The needle is placed incorrectly in the needle

clamp, it is either backwards or is not up in the needle clamp all the way.

(3) The wrong type of needle is being used for the

fabric. Use ball point needle on knits and wedge point needles for leathers and vinyls.

(4) The thread is too thick for the size of needle

being used. Use a larger needle.

B. The Thread

(1) The machine is threaded incorrectly. (2) Many brands of polyester thread are too stiff and

r»r\iarco +Kiie n-iaL'inn lr^r\r» "frirmatinn ilt r^r

impossible.

Change brands or use a cotton

IWIIItWKtWIi VrfilliWWIik VM

thread.

The Presser Foot

(1) The foot being used is not holding the fabric taut

enough over the needle plate hole, thus the fabric is being pulled up and down while stitching. Use the foot which gives the most control possible for the particular job being done.

(2) There is not enough pressure on the presser bar to

hold the fabric firmly. Increase pressure on the pressure control.

The Fabric

The fabric has a heavy finish on it which deters stitch formation. Wash the fabric thoroughly

before sewing.

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v_X

If your machine skips stitches only on certain fabrics, try

all of the above procedures before calling a repairman. Check the needle plate area, if there are scratches and

marks around the needle hole opening, your machine is not being cleaned properly. Always remove the needle plate and clean the feed dogs periodically. Improper and lack of cleaning will cause an accumulation of lint which hampers the feeding mechanism, this” in turn will cause the operator to impatiently pull or push the cloth causing the needle to bend and strike the plate, foot or hook, causing a slip in the timing mechanism. Continuous striking will cause defects making it necessary to call a serviceman.

THREAD BREAKING

Machine improperly threaded.

Thread is caught in a slit of the spool or

under the spool. Thread is dry or of poor quality.

Tension is too tight.

Starting the machine with take-up lever in

the wrong position. Always start and end

sewing with take-up lever in highest posi tion.

Needle is bent, blunt, or has a burr on it.

Needle is not inserted correctly.

Thread is too coarse for needle being

used.

I. Needle plate has been nicked by the

needle, thus is sharp and cuts the threads.

3. NEEDLE COMES UNTHREADED

A. Take-up lever is not in correct position as

you start sewing. Always start and end with your take-up lever in its highest position.

4. NEEDLE BREAKS

A. Pulling on fabric while sewing bends the

needle, this may cause breakage if needle hits the plate.

B. Needle is inserted incorrectly.

C. Needle is too fine for the type of fabric.

D. Needle is hitting pins. E. Presser foot is improperly fastened. F. Machine is improperly threaded.

6. THREADS JAM AT START OF SEWING

A. Hold the threads tightly for the first few

stitches.

B. Place thread ends under and to the side

of presser foot instead of to the back.

C. Be sure the presser foot is down on thick

fabrics.

7. MACHINE IS NOISY

A. Clean and oil it.

B. If it is a punching sound, changing the

needle.

C. Stitch length dial is not at 5 or SS when

stretch-stitching — Set is at 5 or SS.

D. Your machine is equipped with a two

speed motor. At the lower range you may encounter a noticeable hum, due to

increased power or torque needed to

operate your machine.

8. BOBBIN DOES NOT WIND PROPERLY

A. Machine is improperly threaded.

B. Rubber wheel on bobbin winder is worn

or not making contact.

C. Bobbin winder tension disc is not in

position.

5. MATERIAL PUCKERS A. Tensions are too tight.

B. Improper threading. C. Thread is too heavy for fabric. D. Stitch is too long for fabric. E. Needle is duli so it is difficult to seam

fabric.

F. The presser foot being used is not holding

the fabric taut enough.

G. If all else fails, try sewing over paper.

i T

Accessories.................................................................................................................................6, 48, 49

Adjusting for the Fabric..................................................................................................................17, 18

Adjusting the Stitch............................................................................................................................ 15

All Purpose Foot....................................................................................................................................19

Applique................................................................................................................................................. 26

Baseball..................................................................................................................................................42

Basting...................................................................................................................................................22

Blind Hem Foot......................................................................................................................................49

Blind Hem Stitch......................................................................................................................32, 33, 34

Buttonhole Control Dial........................................................................................................................17

Buttonhole Foot.................................................................................................................................. .19

Buttonholes.................................................................................................................28, 29, 30, 31, 44

Care and Maintenance..........................................

Changing the Foot................................................................................................................................ 19

Changing/the Light Bulb..................................................................................................................... 51

Changing the Needles.....................................................................................................................14, 50

Cleaning the Machine............................................................................................................................50

Cloth Guide.............................................................................................................................................20

Cording and Zipper Foot................................................................................................................

Cording to Insert....................................................................................................................................48

Corners...................................................................................................................................................21

Darning.............................................................................................................................................22, 34

r^or'rxra-t’lv/o Qp\A/inn 24.25.33.35.46

WWWI W VI » W

................................................................................................................................................................................ ' • . .

Edging..............................................................................................................................................41, 44

Elastic Application...................................................................................................................35, 36, 37

Elastic Edging.......................................................................................................................................41

Elastic Thread Shirring.........................................................................................................................22

Electrical Connections........................................................................................................................... 8

Embroidery..................................................................................................................24, 25, 33, 35, 46

Embroidery Foot....................................................................................................................................19

Etched Seam Guide...............................................................................................................................20

Facings — Understitching....................................................................................................................35

Fagoting................................................................................................................................................. 42

Feather Stitch.........................................................................................................................................42

Feed Dog Control..................................................................................................................................17

Fringe Foot.............................................................................................................................................49

Free-Arm Sewing...............................................................................................................................7, 47

Gathering over a Cord.......................................................................................................................... 26

Hems — Blind Hem Stitch..............................................................................................................32, 33

Hems — Flutter......................................................................................................................................27

Hems — Stretch Blind Hem.................................................................................................................44

Hemstitching........................................................................................................................................ 38

Lace .......................................................................................................................^ ......................27, 40

Ladder Stitch..........................................................................................................'

Mending.................................................................................................................................................34

Minor Problems and Their Solutions............................................................................................52, 53

Monogramming — Freehand...............................................................................................................25

Multiple Stitch Zigzag....................................................................................................................34^ 35

Needle — Changing........................................................................................................................14, 50

Needle — Selection.........................................................................................................................12, 13

Needle—Thread—Fabric Chart......................................................................................................12, 13

Needle Position Dial..............................................................................................................................17

..........................................................................

...............................

50, 51

19, 48

Page

Oiling

................................................................................................................................................. 51

Overcast Foot.................................................................................................................................... 49

Overcasting — Multiple Stitch Zigzag............................................................................................34

Overcasting - Zigzag........................................................................................................................ 23

Overlock Stitch.....................................................................................................................36, 37, 38

Parts Identification......................................................................................................................... 4-5

Patching.............................................................................................................................................34

Pattern Selector Dial........................................................................................................................ 16

Pinning...............................................................................................................................................20

Pin Tucks...............................................................................................................................................46 •

Pivoting.

..........

^............................................................................................................................ . .21

Presser Foot — Changing...............................................................................................................19

Presser Foot - Selection..................................................................................................................19

Pressure Control.............................................................................................................................. 17

Principle Parts................................................................................................................................

4, 5

Quilting Guide...................................................................................................................................48

Relating Stitch Length to Stitch Width..........................................................................................15

Removing the Needle Plate.......................................................................................................14, 50

Reverse Lever...................................................................................................................................15

Rick-Rack..........................................................................................................................................43

Roiled Hem Foot...............................................................................................................................49

Roller Foot........................................................................................................................................ 49

Satin Stitching..................................................................................................................................24

Seam Guide

.............................

..........................................................................................................20

Seams......................................................................................................................20, 22, 36, 39, 40

Seams — Curved.............................................................................................................................21

Seams — Ending............................................................................................................................. 21

Seams - Knits................................................................................................................................... 23

Seams — Nylon Tricot.....................................................................................................................37

Sewing Light.......................................................................................................................................8

Sewing on Button....................................................................................................................... 23, 24

Shell Tucking.....................................................................................................................................33, 40

Shirring........................................................................................................................................... .22

Stitch Length Dial.............................................................................................................................15

Stitch Width Dial...............................................................................................................................15

Straight Stitch...................................................................................................................................22

Straight Stitch Foot..........................................................................................................................19

Straight Stretch Stitch

Stretch Blind Hem. .......................

................

...................................

........................................................... . .39

‘.................................................................................................. 44

Stretch Overlock...............................................................................................................................43

Tapering Zigzag................................................................................................................................25

Tension Adjustments.......................................................................................................................18

Tension..............................................................................................................................................18

Threading the Machine............................................................................................................. 10, H

Topstitching.....................................................................................................2S, 33,38, 39,41, 43

Tucks.....................................................................................................................................33, 40, 46

Turning Corners...............................................................................................................................21

Twin Needle Sewing................................................................................................................... 45, 46

Winding the Bobbin...........................................................................................................................9

Zigzag Stitch Applications.........................................................................................................23, 27

— • .................................................. ................................................................... .*fO

>1 O

Zippers . .......................................................................................................................................... 48

MEMO

■Head Measurement

Bust Measurement

Waist Measurement

Hip Measurement

SINGER W510 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual

UPPER THREADING

TENSION

SEAMS

BASTING/TOESTITCHING

ELASTIC THREAD SHIRRING

FORMING A THREAD SHANK

■¡orjs O'

E?WWWWW

PATCHING

MENDING A TEAR OR INSTANT DARNING

UNDERSTITCHING FACINGS

DECORATIVE EFFECTS

NYLON TRICOT SEAMS

HEMSTITCHING

THREAD BREAKING

3. NEEDLE COMES UNTHREADED

4. NEEDLE BREAKS

5. MATERIAL PUCKERS A. Tensions are too tight.

MEMO