machine, the most versatile type of its kind you can
possess.
Buttonholes, monogramming, stretch stitching,
overcasting and creative embroidery are done with ease
and speed.
To aid you in obtaining the greatest performance
from your new WHITE,this book on its care and use
has been written for you. Read the instructions
carefully, as a thorough understanding of your machine
will reward you with many hours of trouble free,
creative sewing.
Time-saving attachments such as rufflers, binders,
edgestitchers, hemmers and others to complement
the accessories furnished with your WHITE are
available from the store where you purchased your
machine.
Always at its highest position when beginning or ending
iiewing. .
For regulating the pressure on fabric.
For leading thread to tension control for sewing
sej^tjng one of four different groups of utility stitch.
|e adjustment of zigzag, stitch Width as well as
■..Eor wtiing stitch width and buttonholer
iFof wiriding thread on bobbin.
For the control of the up and down movement of the
needle.
For selecting stitch length between no feeding and
about 6 stitches per inch.
For easy backtacking to lock thread ends.
For providing proper tension on thread when bobbin
winding.
For regulating feed dog height for various materials and
types of sewing.
With guide lines for sewing accuracy.
For holding fabric when sewing.
For opening an access for bobbin and bobbin case.
For tightening presser foot in place on presser bar.
For automatic precise adjustment of flow of upper thread.
Hinge-open type for replacement of light bulb and oiling.
For regulating the arhount of tension on upper thread.
Forholding needle in place in the slot of needle bar.
Fprhpjding spools, preventing over-spin of spools.
For turning on or off the light inside face cover.
For lifting or lowering presser bar and presser foot.
For convenience to cut both upper and lower threads
after sewing. ; '
•iDiambhd boint to move fabric accurately.
For installation of machine head onto portable case or
cabinet.
110 — 115 Volts, for running machine.
For covering motor belt.
For releasing movement of the needle bar in order to wind
;bobbin.j' ,
Page 7
ACCESSORIES
Your new sewing machine comes equipped with the following set of accessories
to make your sewing easier.
METAL BOBBINS
For your spare bob
bins.
STRAIGHT STITCH FOOT&NEEDLE PLATE
. For straight stitch
ing on very sheer
soft or very light
weight stretchy-ma-
^-tenals where extra
-ihbontrol is needed.
A PACK OF NEEDLES
For spares. One each
of sizes #11, :#14^
and #16 light; ball
point needles. ;
SPOOL CUSHIONS
Place two felt spool
cushions on spool
pins to reduce sound
of spool spinning
SCREW DRIVERS
Small one for use on
bobbin thread ten
sion adjustment.
Large one for use on
thumb screw, needle
clamp, etc.
OILER
Containing machine
oil, use as oiler.
BUTTON FOOT
For holding buttons
in place for stitch
ing.
BUTTONHOLE FOOT
Use for buttonhol
ing. Do not 'use
when normal sew
ing, f
CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT
For stitching very
close to the edge
of a cord or zipper.
QUILTING GUIDE
Helps make parallel
rows of stitching.
CLOTH GUIDE WITH SCREW
Aid in creating
straight seams.
SEAM RIPPER
For cutting the
open buttonholes and
for removing stitches.
P-'
k.'-
Page 8
INSTALLING MACHINE HEAD ONTO PORTABLE CASE
OR CABINET-AND CONNECTING MACHINE
I
• ^ "kV'
Loosen both head hinge set screws
on the back of machine bed plate
until head hinge holes are clear.
Tilt head hinge pins up and back
as far as they will go.
Carefully slip machine head onto
hinges - making sure the head
hinge pins are inserted as far as
they can go into head hinge holes.
Allow machine head to rest in its
tilted back position.
Tighten both ^t screws securely
with screwdriver.
Plug electrical leads from machine
head into sockets located inside
cabinet or portable case. Cord
identified with "motor” tag must
be plugged into socket marked
"motor". Untagged cord goes to
"light" socket.
Insert plug into a wall outlet of
110-115 Volts.
m
■^1
Page 9
SECT! n
pip;ilVlETRiEpAjRMACHINE ■
SELECTION OF NEEDLES AND THREADS
The needle and thread you choose depends
upon the fabric you are stitching. The correct
selection of needle and thread is very important
to avoid damaging the fabrics of light weight
or tightly woven fabrics, to prevent skipped
stitches when sewing on very sheer, stretchy
fabrics or needle breakage when stitching heavy
or stiff fabrics. For best results, sewing machine
needles should be replaced when they become
even slightly dull or bent or at the completion
of every other garment.
A regular needle is suggested for use with
woven fabrics. Needles, style 15 x 1, of the
range in size from 8 to 20 are used on this
machine. The lower number indicates the finer
needle. The most commonly used sizes are 11
and 14.
A ball point needle is recommended for use
with tricots, jerseys, lingeries and power nets.
Unlike sharp pointed needles, which pierce
fibers of knit fabrics destroying elasticity,the
ball point needle slips between fibers without
damage to fabric and skipped stitches.
- ‘
il
' >V,
SH^RPNEEDLE
iSi;.
A wedge point needle is recommended for use
with leather and leather-look vinyls. A wedge
cutting point pierces leather more easily than
ordinary sewing machine needles, resulting in
more satisfactory stitching.
Although a ball point needle is recommended
for knit fabrics and sewing on very stretchy
fabrics of knits, the placement of a thin paper
below the fabric and the use of a finer needle
are suggested to prevent skip stitches.
Always use the same type and size of thread
in both needle and bobbin. Use a good quality
thread without knots for best stitches.
8
Page 10
NEEDLE - THREAD - FABRIC - STITCHING GUIDE
Extremely heavy
tarpaulin, sacking,
canvas, duck, etc.
Heavy upholstery
fabric, ticking,
denim, leatherette.
Medium heavy drapery
fabric, velveteen,
suiting, felt, terry, etc.
Medium broadcloth,
percale, gingham, linen,
chintz, taffeta, sheer
wool, shantung, etc.
Sheer voile, lawn,
dimity, crepe,
handkerchief linen.
Plastic film, etc.
Very sheer chiffon,
batiste, lace, organdy,
nylon net, marquisette, etc.
18
16
14
11
8
to
10
10
to
12
12
to
14
14
to
16
(plastic film)
8 to 10
16
to
20
Heavy Duty
Heavy Duty
50
50
60
O
o
' o
Page 11
CHANGING NEEDLE
Always change the needle after every
other garment especially when sewing on
polyester and nylon fabrics which dull
needles much faster. When needles are
dull or bent, they damage both your
fabric and the machine. A general rule
when placing sewing machine needles is
that the flat side of the needle is placed
to the right of the machine, when the
bobbin is put in from the left. If the
needle is inserted incorrectly, the stitches
will not form.
To change the needle
1. Raise the needle bar to its highest
position by turning the hand wheel
toward you.
2. Loosen needle clamp to remove the
needle.
3. Place needle (flat side to the right and
long groove to the left) in the needle
clamp and push it upward as far as it
will go, tighten needle clamp.
4. After changing the needle, make one
complete turn of the hand wheel by
hand to be sure the needle is clearing
the needle plate.
CHANGING NEEDLE PLATE
Although an all-purpose, utility needle
plate is fixed on your machine, for
straight sewing on fine fabric or soft very
stretchy fabric, you may want to use the
straight stitch needle plate with the
straight stitch foot, which are included in
your accessory box.
To change the needle plate, simply slide
the slide plate as far left as possible.
Remove the two screws holding the
plate in place. Lift the needle plate and
replace.
The needle plate is removed for cleaning
the lint which may pile up between
needle plate and feed dogs.
0
Page 12
SELECTION OF PRESSER FOOT
For most ordinary sewing the original all-purpose foot can be used. However, the
following feet in your accessory box are recommended for special purposes.
Straight Stitch Foot
This has only a narrow hole to accommo
date only straight stitching. It may be
used on sheer or soft fabrics for more
control. When using this foot, the Stitch
Width Control should be at 0 to avoid
hitting the foot and breaking the needle.
Buttonhole Foot
This foot has a groove underneath, to
allow the narrow satin stitch or button
hole to form evenly. However, if skipstitch occurs on sheer fabrics with this
foot, it may be necessary to use thin
paper underneath.
Cording or Zipper Foot, and Button Foot
Use for sewing very close to the edge of a
cord or zipper, and sewing on buttons
respectively.
CHANGING FOOT
Use the large screwdriver to loosen thumb
screw. Turn the screw backward until the
foot becomes loose. Then, lift up on
presser foot lever until it is in its highest
position in order to remove the foot.
Replace with desired foot and tighten
thumb screw securely.
Page 13
WINDING BOBBIN
Disengage the hand wheel (1) from
the stitching mechanism by turning
the clutch nut |2) toward you or-
counter-clockwise.
Place a spool of thread on one of
the spool pins and lead thread
through the Top Thread Guide
(3) and Bobbin Winder Tension
Disc at the right front of bedplate.
Run the end of thread through a
hole in the bobbin edge and place
bobbin on spindle of bobbin winder
fitting the notch on bobbin over
small pin on spindle.
Press bobbin winder latch (4)
down, and hold the thread end
loosely then start machine slowly,
and bobbin winder latch will be
released to stop winding when
bobbin is full.
Turn clutch nut away from you
until sewing mechanism is again
engaged so that needle moves when
you turn the hand wheel.
Break off loose thread end used to
start the winding and cut other
thread end. Then remove bobbin
from bobbin winder.
12
Page 14
1. Turn the hand wheel toward you
to raise the take-up lever to its
highest position.
2. Place a spool of thread on the
spool pin.
3. Lead the thread through the top
thread guides.
4. Down and between the tension
discs, from right to left.
5. Draw the thread up through the
check spring and with a slight
tug into the hook.
6. Up and through the eye of take-
up lever from right to left.
Lead thread down through the
thread guide at the bottom of
the threading slot, then, through
the needle bar thread guide from
the back.
i
mijfllHIIlfJtLlIlQui
8. Thread the needle FROM LEFT
TO RIGHT, drawing it through
about 3 or 4 inches. Hold the
end of the upper thread loosely
and turn the hand wheel toward
you until the needle goes all the
way down and comes back up.
A thread loop will form over
the upper thread which then can
be pulled out straight. Place
both thread ends under presser
foot and draw toward the side
of the machine, leaving both
threads three or four inches
long.
Page 15
THREADING BOBBIN CASE
Hold bobbin case be
tween thumb and fore
finger of left hand, so
that the slot in the edge
of the bobbin case is on
top. Take the bobbin
between thumb and fore
finger of right hand so
that the thread on top
leads from left to right
. Insert bobbin into bob
bin case, pull the thread
into the slot of the
bobbin case and draw it
under tension spring and
into the fork-shaped
opening of the spring.
PLACING BOBBIN CASE IN SHUTTLE
Raise needle bar to its highest position, and slide plate to
the left. Hold the bobbin case latch. (D) between the
thumb and forefinger of the left hand, with at least three
inches of thread running from the top of the bobbin case
to the right. Insert and center the bobbin case on the
stud of the shuttle body (C). Be sure the bobbin case
finger (E) is opposite the shuttle race notch (A). Press
the bobbin case (Bj into the shuttle as far as possible
until the latch catches on the center post of the shuttle.
' Then release the bobbin case latch (D). Press the bobbin
case again after the latch has been released to make sure
the bobbin case is locked securely in place. Close the
slide plate.
' • ' ;-i i iTi I MriiV '*1 ^ ~
Page 16
SECTION 1
SELECTION OF STITCH:
STITCH LENGTH CONTROL
The stitch length control controls the forward feeding of
the fabric in ordinary sewing.
At 0, the fabric does not feed at all. With the control
around the symbol D for buttonhole, the shortest
stitch is available. At 4 is the longest - about 6 stitches
per inch on ordinary fabrics — but the control may be
set at any desired spot between 0 and 4 for a variety of
length, except when stretch stitching (triple back-andforth stitching) the control should be always at 4. Turn
the control to the left to lengthen and to the right to
shorten the stitch.
The stitch length number you choose is indicated by the
pointer above the control.
The stitch length in stretch stitching (triple back-and-
forth stitching) can not be altered by the control, but it
is fixed about 3/64 inch of trouble-free stretch stitch
length on most kinds of fabrics with the Stitch Selector
at stretch stitch position and the stitch length control
m
at "4"
REVERSE BUTTON
When you wish to sew backward to tie the threads at the beginning or end of a seam
in ordinary sewing, press the Reverse Button as far as it will go, so that your machine
sews in reverse at approximately the same stitch length as forward stitch length. The
machine will sew backward as long as the button is held in.
P
w
Cross reference table between numeral on the control and number of actual stitches
per inch
Numeral on the control
Number of stitches per inch (approx.) No Feeding : 24 12 ■ 9
0
1 2
24 12 :96
■■"/■4^
5
Page 17
STITCH WIDTH CONTROL
This control controls the swing of the
needle from left to right for various
widths of stitches. At 0 the straight
stitch results in regular sewing. Also,
special stitch patterns are made with
this control at 0.
With the control to the right from 0
position, the needle takes a large swing
resulting in a wide column of stitches
no matter which pattern is selected.
RELATING STITCH LENGTH TO
STITCH WIDTH
When the Stitch Width Control is set at
one particular width (such as 4), the
stitch length control will now control
how close those stitches come together.
At length 0, the fabric does not move,
resulting in, a bar of stitches formed one
on top of the other, as is used in button
sewing. At the Buttonhole symbol mark
or near 0, the feed pulls the fabric
through slowly, resulting in a dense
column of stitches called a satin stitch.
A length 4, a very long open zigzag
results.
Page 18
STITCH SELECTOR
In addition to regular straight and
zigzag stitch, three other special
groups of utility stitches can be
selected by the selector knob.
To select your desired stitch:
1. Raise the needle bar to its high^
est position by turning the hand
wheel toward you.
2. Turn stitch selector for your
desired pattern. For regular
straight, straight stretch, blind
hem and pine leaf stitch, set
stitch width control at 0.
3. For stretch stitches shown in
black on the selector, set the
stitch length control at 4. (See
page 35)
SUP
17
Page 19
CONTROLS:
ADJUSTING THREAD TENSIONS
Always adjust the upper thread
tension with the presser foot down,
as the tension is released when it is
raised. To increase the tension on
the upper thread, turn tension
control to the right. To decrease,
turn to the left. Before adjusting
the tension be sure that the
machine is threaded properly.
It is seldom required to adjust
the bobbin thread tension,
however, when necessary to change
bobbin thread tension, turn small
screw on side of the bobbin case
clockwise to tighten , counterclock
wise to loosen.
When both tensions are properly
balanced, a perfect stitch will be
formed with both threads interlock
ing in fabric (A).
When the upper tension is too tight,
the bobbin thread is pulled up over
the upper thread which is lying flat
on the fabric (B).
When the upper tension is too
loose, the upper thread forms loops
over the bobbin thread lying flat on
the fabric (C).
When the upper and bobbin thread
tensions are balanced but fabric is
puckered in sewing direction on
sheer fabrics, both tensions are too
tight. Loosen both tensions evenly.
It is recommended to adjust the
tension balance under medium
stitch length, in case of satin
stitching for buttonholes and em
broidery slightly loosen the upper
thread tension.
18
Page 20
ADJUSTING PRESSURE ON FABRIC AND FEED DOG HEIGHT
• GENERAL SEWING
Usually for normal sewing, except for sewing on
very heavy and bulky fabrics and very stretchy
knit fabrics of medium and very light weight,
the center pin (B| of the pressure control be at
its lowest position also, the right button of feed
dog height control be pushed full down, except
for sewing on very sheer fabrics. For above
exceptional fabrics, refer to below table. To
reduce half the pressure, press the outer ring
(A) of the pressure control, then press the center
•pin (B) down again to halfway down. To reduce
half the feed dog height, push the left button
of feed dog height control slightly down to
raise right button up at a halfway position.
• MENDING AND DARNING:
In order to move the fabric freely in any direction for darning and mending, release
the center pin (B) completely by pressing down on the outer ring (A). Press down
the left button of feed dog height control all the way down, which drops the
feed dog well below the needle plate. To return the feed dog height to normal, push
the right button down in full position.
Page 21
SEWING LIGHT
■ linht k located in face cover directly over the
Turn th. IlgM on .n1 0« bv push.n9 ™'<
at thp rear of f3C6 covar.
TO r.p,0C= bu,r.. .urn |,»b. cb,
BUTTONHOLER
The stitch width control knob is used also for
holding. With the control at the black sq
the machine sews forward on 9
„itn ,he «« »“'\»;tunU ote and Is ba.<a*Pi
oTou? b™"iP-Hh°-SS. i sS^b^i'i
rl‘^ii.rs.:i a* i.a InaP w«* “
edge of buttonhole. mntrol from 1 to 4 in
Therefore MmpW by turning ^
sequence for every b a
buttonhole of the size „/32 inch is produced,
open out space “th. .¡tin ^
iSi.f “t';?i.aTsbur;lol
CREATIVE EMBROIDERY CONTROL
This is the altérname stitch width control
I. able of ..r“™ m. stitch width while on the cr.,me
E«rr i.‘rr^m,1hrri idi^coloiied and will ai«a,s return
Straight sewing.
20
Page 22
m
SECTION W
PREPARING to SEW
Havp take-uD lever at highest position before starting to sew. Pinning may be used
as a t me saver of hanS basting, it is possible to sew over pms when p aced a
riaht abolís to the edge of fabric, with the pin head at the raw edge, but for best
re^sults if is recommended that the pins be removed as you approach the presser oo .
,o„... p--
presser foot.
GUIDING FABRIC
Exceot blind stitching and pine-leaf stretch hem stitching, also, buttonhole-stitching
bi buttonholer, straight stitch seam and the left line of zigzag st.tch column .s run
over the left etched scale on needle plate. The scale is etched with every 1/8 inch
distance Let the edge of fabric follow the line selected for the seam and let your
les follow the etched line you selected for the seam, not the needle, during sewing
xi) help you guide the fabric, place cloth guide attachment securing it by the extra
thumb screw onto machine bedplate. Cloth guide and extra thumb screw are includ
ed in vour accessory box. , „ , ,,
Do not try to help the feeding by pulling the material as this may deflect the needle
and cause it to break.
>rics
)sen
i of
jire
rics
jms
tch
dth
iS
to
ed
lY
er
in
4
as
)r
ir
M
tí
TURNING CORNERS
To pivot at a corner, leave the needle in the fabric. Lift the presser foot, turn the
fabric, then lower the presser foot and continue sewing.
=5;^
13
Page 23
CURVED SEAMS
Use slightly shorter stitch length
than that of the rest of the seams.
On the part where elasticity is
required on the seam, sew by
stretch stitch. The cloth guide may
be used on angle as shown.
SEWING ACROSS HEAVY
SEAMS
When approaching heavy seam,
hold the fabric upward on an angle
so that the heavy seam falls under
the front curved sled of presser
foot.
REMOVING THE WORK
Be sure to stop the machine when
the thread take-up lever or needle
is at the highest position.
Now raise the presser foot and draw
the fabric back and to the left
and pass the threads over the
thread cutter.
Pull down slightly, holding thread
in both hands, so as not to bend the
needle .
Leave the ends of threads under
the presser foot.
22
Page 24
SECTION V
STRAIGHT STITCH
SEAMS
Selector: g
Length: 1—2
Width: 0
Feed Dog; UP
Pressure: Full
Foot: Straight Stitch of
All Purpose
Selector: j
...................................
?■ : ;. ■■■■:■ 9 Feed Dog: UP
iii.- ■ ' ■ ■ ■■ ’ Straight Stitch
i Length: 3—4
■ .M Width; 0
■ -.B Pressure: Full
The normal stitch length for most fabrics
is between 1—2 but the length chosen
should depend on the fabric and area of
usage. Usually, heavier fabrics require
longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics
require shorter stitches. For curved seams
and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch
length. Be sure to set the stitch width
control at 0.
BASTING/TOPSTITCHING
Sewing a seam with a longer stitch is
useful for temporary seams prior to
fitting. Basting stitches also may be used
when gathering in fullness.
Topstitching can be done very effectively
with the long straight stitch. For a bolder
stitch, two threads of the same type can
be threaded through one needle (size 14
or 16). A heavier thread such as
buttonhole twist may be used for
topstitching, but be sure to use a larger
needle (size 16 or 18).
Selector: jf
Length: 0
Width: 0
Feed Dog: Down
Pressure: 0
f: Foot: All Purpose
DARNING
Worn spots or small holes can be darned
very easily. Use of an embroidery hoop is
optional depending on the fabric. A fine
thread is recommended so that the fabric
and thread will blend together.
Trim the ragged edges from the area to be
darned. Hold the threads to start, then
move the fabric slowly backwards and
forwards while running the machine very
fast to fill the area. Professional results
will be attained by rnoving the fabric in
a figure eight pattern while sewing. After
filling in the area lengthwise, reweave
with crosswise stitches in the same
manner.
23
Page 25
CORDIISIG/SEWING IN ZIPPER
• INSERT CORDING
(A) Fold bias strip of fabric over
cord. Loosen the adjusting
screw on the back of cording/
zipper foot and set the foot to
the left of needle.
(B) Sandwich the welting between
two layers of fabric with right
sides together. Stitch a second
time with cording/zipper foot
to the right of needle so that
the needle stitches close to the
cord through all thicknesses.
• ZIPPERS
Swing the foot to left or right of
the needle as needed so that the
foot sews very close to zipper teeth.
QUILTING
Parallel straight lines are easy to
sew with the quilting guide. To
attach the guide, loosen thumb
screw and slip the U-shaped holder
of the guide between presser foot
and thumb screw. Tighten the
thumb screw securely. Adjust the
curved bar to the desired distance
from the needle. Sew the first line
of stitching as desired, then, for the
succeeding rows let the guide
follow along the previous stitch
line, A straight stitch, zigzag, or any
other stitch may be used.
24
Page 26
Selector: ¡§
Length: M2—2
Width: 4
Feed Dog: UP
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
ZIGZAG STITCH:
OVERCASTING
Place the edge of the material underneath
the opening of the sewing foot and guide
raw edge along the center slot of the foot
allowing stitch to form half on and half
off the fabric.
Selector: S
Length; 1/2—2
Width: 1
Feed Dog: UP
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Selector; ii
Length:0
Width:1-4
Feed Dog: Down
Pressure: Full
Foot: Button Foot
SEWING KNITS
The narrow zigzag cap be used in seams
of firm knits for added strength. After
sewing, open seam and press flat. Tiny
zigzag stitches can hardly be seen and the
seam will give when stretched.
SEWING ON BUTTONS
Place the button so its left hole comes
directly under the needle of its left zigzag
sewing then gently lower the button foot.
Take a stitch into the hole.
Raise the needle from the left hole, and
move zigzag width control to the right
until the needle comes down exactly over
the right hole in the button.
Note: Be sure the needle clears the holes
of the button by moving the wheel by
hand before running the machine fast.
Usually 6 to 8 stitches are adequate for
securing a button in place. Stop with the
needle in the left hole. To lock the
threads, set the stitch width at 0 and
take a few stitches in the left hand hole.
25
m
Page 27
SEWING ON BUTTON
WITH A THREAD SHANK
Buttons sewn on coats or jackets should
have a thread shank to make them stand
away from the fabric. To form a thread
shank, sew over a pin or rounded tooth
pick.
After stitching the button to the fabric,
remove work from under the presser foot
leaving threads about six inches from
fabric. Remove pin or toothpick. Pull the
threads to back of button and form a
shank between button and fabric by
winding, threads tightly around the attach
ing stitches. Pull threads to back of the
fabric and tie thread ends securely.
: -
w
SATIN STITCHING
This is useful for decoration such as
tapering, manual designed embroidery,
monogramming and applique.
The satin stitch, which is really just a
very close zigzag stitch, is obtained by
setting the stitch length as near to "0"
as possible without stopping the feeding
action or symbol a The setting will
vary for different fabrics. It may be
desirable to loosen the upper tension
slightly to cause the threads to lock
underneath in order to make the top
surface look especially smooth. For light
weight fabrics, place a paper underneath
the fabric for best results.
26
Selector: ®
Length: Near 0
Width: 1—4
Feed Dog: UP
Pressure: Full
Foot; All Purpose
--',T
Page 28
TAPERING/CREATIVE
EMBROIDERY
Tapering is done by gradually increasing’
and decreasing the stitch width by
moving creative embroidery control while
sewing. By this method, tapered mono
grams and other interesting designs can be
created. For tapered monogram run the
machine fast while sliding the creative
embroidery control slowly from left to
right and from right to left.
First, learn this stroke by letting the
fabric guide straight. Then, learn to pivot
the fabric as you are tapering by holding
the fabric at one point. Various strokes
can be combined io: -form letters and
designs. Variegated thread can give
attractive results.
Selector: ¡S
Length: Near 0
Width: 0-1
Feed Dog: UP
Pressure; Full
Foot; All Purpose
MANUAL EMBROIDERY
DESIGNS
Different designs can be made by sliding
the creative embroidery control between
left and right. By running the machine at
a constant speed and sliding the creative
embroidery control in a definite rhy-
thum, various designs can be created.
Selector: is
Length; Near 0
Width: 0-1
Feed Dog: UP
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
27
Page 29
FREEHAND MONOGRAMMING
For giving garments and linens a per
sonalized touch, first transfer the design
to the right side of the fabric. Ah
embroidery hoop is recommended es
pecially for soft fabrics and toweling.
In order to monogram, you must move
the fabric slowly and run the machine
rapidly. IVIonogramm'ing is like writing by
moving the paper under a stationary pen.
Guide the fabric slowly so that the zigzag
falls close together like a satin stitch, but
be careful that the stitches do not pile up.
When guiding from side to side, move
fabric slightly faster to avoid a heavy
area.
Practice by forming loops. Once this is
accomplished any letter is easy.
Sometimes the use of paper or non-woven
interfacing under the fabric may make
guiding the fabric easier. The paper or
interfacing may be torn or cut away at
the completion of the monogram.When
monogramming towels, cellophane plac
ed on the top will help cover loops and
make the monogram smooth. Pull or cut
away remaining cellophane when finish
ed.
Selector: ii
Length :0
■Width: 1-4
Feed Dog: Down
Pressure: 0
Foot: All Purpose
APPLIQUE/PATCHING
Applying decorative shapes of fabric
scraps to household articles and clothing
is a very interesting way of trimming an
otherwise plain article. First, trace the
design on fabric to be appliqued, then
pin or baste it securely in place on
garment. With a small straight stitch or
narrow zigzag sew around the transferred
design or patch.
After excess fabric is trimmed away, sew
around the applique or patch with a satin
stitch or short length zigzag stitch. For a
smooth curve, stop frequently at the
inside edge of the curve to pivot the
fabric slightly. Corners look much better
when the point is stitched by pivoting
rather than just turned.
As with all decorative stitches, paper may
be used to give more body to the fabric
when stitching and can be torn away
when the applique is completed.
28
Step 1
Selector: ii
Length:1
Width: 0-1
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Step 2
Selector: if
Length: Near 0
Width; 1-4
Feed Dog: UP
Pressure: Full
Foot: AH Purpose
Page 30
GATHERING OVER A CORD
Ordinary gathering with a basting stitch
often breaks while pulling in fullness. A
small zigzag across a cord such as crochet
thread or carpet thread, gives a much
stronger cord for gathering fullness into
fabrics. Once the gathers have been
stitched in place, the cord can be pulled
out in order to eliminate bulk.
Selector:
Length: 1 -2
Width: 2 3
Feed Dog: UP
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
LACE APPLICATION
Attaching laces or trims adds a special
touch to lingerie, dresses, or linens. Pin or
baste lace in place easing or mitering
corners where neccessary.
A straight edged lace or braid has a
convenient line to follow when sewing.
When using a scalloped edged lace follow
the design of the lace for an almost
invisible application.
Selector; IS
Length: 1/2-1
Width: 1-2
Feed Dog: UP
Pressure: Full
Foot; All Purpose
FLUTTER HEM
An unusual way of hemming or finishing
edges of tricot or soft knits is by a flutter
edge. Hemming in this manner is just like
overcasting an edge, but the fabric is
stretched in back and in front of the
needle as you sew. For best results, pull
the fabric equally, making sure the needle
goes over the edge. When you stop to
reposition your hands, keep the needle in
the fabric.
Selector: IS
Length: Near 0
Width: 3-4
Feed Dog: UP
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
29
Page 31
SEWIIMG TIPS
When a dainty hair line finish is
particularly desirable for the inside seams
of sheer collars, facings, and yokes, seam
allowance that would ordinarily show
through is eliminated by following the
seam outline with a narrow zigzag stitch.
Trim seam allowance close to line of
stitching. Turn and press.
Selector: !S
Length: 1/2—1
Width: 1-2
Feed Dog: UP
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
SHAPING DARTS IN
INTERFACINGS
Cut interfacing down center between dart
lines. Overlap cut edges, matching dart
lines. Zigzag stitch along marking line
from point to wide end of dart. Trim
both raw edges close to stitching.
Selector:
Length: 1/2-1
Width; 1
Feed Dog: UP
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
30
Page 32
BUTTONHOLES
Various fabrics require various methods of sewing
buttonholes. Two different methods are given below,
with suggested uses. If you are in doubt as to which
method is best for your fabric, test the methods in
question and choose the best according to the finished
appearance.
PREPARATION
For the best results, a good quality mercerized cotton
thread should be used. Polyester threads often result in
puckered or heavy unattractive buttonholes. The finer
your fabric is, the finer your cotton thread should be.
An interfacing should be used under the buttonholes to
give body, to strengthen, and to help them withstand
wear.
To establish the correct length of the buttonhole, add
the length of the button (A), plus the thickness of the
button (B), plus 1/8 inch for the bartacks. The length
may be marked on the garment with a basting stitch,
tailor's chalk, or an invisible cellophane tape, as shown.
Horizontal buttonholes should extend 1/8 inch beyond
the centerline of the garment. Vertical buttonholes are
placed so that the cutting space of the buttonhole is
directly on the center line.
Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of the
garment fabric before making any buttonholes on your
garment. On your test sample, duplicate the thicknesses
found in the garment and be sure to include the
interfacing. The test sample should help determine the
length needed for the button to pass through the hole
easily, as well as the stitch length needed for the
particular fabric. As with the satin stitch, the stitches
should be close together, but not so close that they pile
up. Be sure to use the buttonhole foot.
Page 33
BUILT-IN BUTTONHOLE
This buttonhole eliminates the need for pivoting
the fabric. It is used most often on light and
medium weight woven fabrics.
1. Set the stitch width control for the black
square marked ¡1) buttonhole position. Lower
needle into the mark at the top left end of
buttonhole. Lower presser foot and sew on
the left side of buttonhole until you reach
the bottom end of buttonhole.
2. Stitch width control to the ¡2-4) position
take a few stitch to bartack the bottom end
of buttonhole.
3. With the needle up, turn the stitch width
control to the (3) position. Sew on the right
side of buttonhole. , At this position the
machine is feeding in reverse.
4. With the needle out of the cloth, turn again to
the {2—4) position and complete the button
hole by bartacking on the top end of button
hole.
Selector:
Length: Symbol n
Width: ¿-□-[J-p
Feed Dog: UP-DOWN
Pressure; Full
Foot: Buttonhole Foot
5. To lock the stitches, make sure the needle is
out of the fabric and set width at 0. Then
take a few stitches.
6. To prevent cutting through the bartack insert
a straight pin through the bartack. Cut
buttonhole open.
32
Page 34
Selector:;?
Length: Symbol Q
Width: 2
Feed Dog: DOWN-UP-DOWIM^UP^DOWN
Pressure; Full
Foot: Buttonhole Foot
TURN-AROUND BUTTONHOLE
1. Place material under presser foot to sew the
top or low end of marked buttonhole Push
left ^button, of feed dog height control
all the way down, hold creative embroidery
control at its right end position, take few
stitches to bartack the end of marked button
hole.
2. Push right button of feed dog height control
all the way down, release creative embroidery
control, set stitch width control at 2 then
sew down the left edge of marked button
hole and finish stitching with needle in
fabric at the right side of stitches. Set feed
dog at down position.
3. Lift presser foot and pivot the fabric around,
then lower presser, foot and take one stitch to'
left turning hand wheel by hand.
4. Pushing creative embroidery control to right
take few stitches to bartack another end of
marked buttonhole.
5. Up feed dog to high position and sew down
another edge of marked buttonhole.
6. Lock thread by stitching a few stitches at
0 width and down position feed dog height.
Cut center open space of buttonhole carefully
not to cut into the stitches, as illustrated
previously.
Selector:
Length: Symbol Q
Width: 1—2
Feed Dog: DOWN^UP-DOWN^UP^DOWN
Pressure; Full
Foot: Buttonhole Foot
CORDED BUTTONHOLE
Cording gives a reinforced raised buttonhole. It is
excellent for use on bulky, woven fabric, or knits
in which the stitching often gets buried and
makes cutting difficult. On knits, a corded
buttonhole will help keep the fabric from
stretching out of shape.
Choose a heavy cotton crochet thread or
buttonhole twist to use for the cording. Proceed
as for the turn-around buttonhole having cord
the under the presser foot in such a way that
the zigzag stitch covers the cord.
At the completion of the buttonhole snip the
excess cord close to the bartack on woven
fabrics. For knitted garments, always pull the
cords to the wrong side by using a darning needle
or needle threader, and knot the cord ends
before clipping.
33
Page 35
BLIND HEM STITCH
The blind hem stitch provides a durable hem
finish that is almost invisible on garments,
drapes, and curtains. It is done easily with
straight or slightly curved hems. With a little
practice it will be a very quick and easy hem
application and the hem will never need
repairing.
Procedure:
(1) Prepare raw edge of hem in desired manner,
such as overcast, 1/4 inch stitched under
pinked, hem tape, or just plain. (Step ])
(2) Fold hem up desired length. Baste or pin 1/2
inch from upper edge. Press in place. ,(Step 2)
(3) Fold hem back toward right side of fabric
leaving about 1/4 inch extended. (Step 3)
(4) Guide the fold of the fabric into the center
cut of the presser foot so that the zigzag bite
of the stitch comes just slightly to the left of
the center cut of the presser foot. The
straight stitches or narrowest zigzag should be
formed on the single thickness of fabric, and
the zigzag bite should catch just barely into
the fold of the fabric at the left.
(5) When stitching is completed, remove fabric
from machine and turn to right side. Press
completed hem.
When hemming an A-line skirt, place a machine
basting stitch along the raw edge of the hem. At
an ironing board, fold up the hem, matching the
seams. Ease in the excess fabric by pulling on
basting thread. Press with steam, then apply hem
tape. Baste or pin hem 1/2" from taped edge,
then continue into step 3.
STEP 1
>
':'KuA
STEP 3* •
Selector:
Length: 1—2
Width: 0-1
Feed Dog: UP
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
34
-nueesw
STEP 5
STEP 4
wit ^ ^
Page 36
STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH:
This stitch may be used on knits and wovens in areas of
stress as a reinforcement stitch. It is excellent for curved
seams such as armholes and crotch seams. For active wear
such as ski pants and girdle fabrics which endure a lot of
stress in bending and stretching, this stitch may be used
for seaming throughout the garment. With stretch stitch
control at stretch stitch position, sew in same manner as
for ordinary sewing.
CAUTION - It is difficult to remove this stitch from
fabric. Pre fit garment before using this stitch.
• TOPSTITCHING
Because this stitch is heavier than an ordinary straight
stitch, it is ideal for topstitching, particularly on knits.
Selector: II
Length:4
Width :o
Feed Dog: UP
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
RICK-RACK STRETCH
This is most common utility ultrastretch of a triple
back-and-forth zigzag stitches with more elasticity
than regular zigzag.
PINE-LEAF STRETCH
This is the combined stitch of straight stretch and
single sideward stitches, useful for hemming on most
knits and stretchy fabrics.
Selector: ||
Length;4
Width: 1—4
Feed Dog: UP
Pressure: Full
Foot: All purpose
Selector:
Length:4
Width: 0-1
Feed Dog: UP
Pressure: Full-Half
&5SS Foot: All Purpose
35
Page 37
APPLICATIONS:
On most knits, an about 3/16 inch finish
ed seam, such as pine-ieaf or Rick-Rack
stretch stitch is more desirabie than a
5/8 inch opened seam aiiowance. These
stitches can create a neater, more
professionai finish, eiiminate bulky
seams, prevent curling, permit the gar
ment to "give" under stress, and at the
same time they cut down on the amount
of work involved in making a garment. If
ever in doubt as to which of those
stitches to use, test them on the partic
ular fabric in question and choose accord
ing to their performance.
Its uses are almost unlimited and the
more you use your machine the more it
will become apparent to you.
ELASTIC APPLICATION
Fold fabric over the elastic and stitch
elastic and fabric at one time, using
pine-leaf or Rick-Rack stretch stitch.
The double layer of fabric next to the
elastic should be stitched with the oneside of ultra-stretch seam and the elastic
should be caught by another side.
Note:
The 5^ch l^og^MsS!
str^dh*^''S^'fohing;;^
machine'№iir
material may
or with uneven forvia
stitch length.
m
m
Ш й
36
p
m
Page 38
OVERLOOK APPLICATION
(A)
(B)
Rick-Rack and Pine-Leaf stretch stitches are also
very usable for overlook stitching on both woven
and knit fabrics.
(Aj Place the raw edge of the fabric under the
presser foot so that as the needle swings to
the right, it comes down at the raw edge.
This will result in an enclosed seam
allowance.
(B) The seam allowances may be trimmed to 1/4
inch either before or after sewing. If
trimming before sewing, proceed as above.
Otherwise, sew the seam with the raw edge
of the fabric on the etched guide line 1/2".
(Any time you use the full width of a
particular stitch, you should readjust the raw
edge of the fabric 1/8 inch to the left.)
Afterward, trim the excess fabric near the
stitching. This method is actually easier than
the overedge method for fabrics that curl.
Note: On soft, loose knits, the fabric may
seem to wave or ripple. If this occurs, reduce
the pressure on fabric.
Page 39
OILING MACHINE
Use only a good sewing machine
oil, do not use any common
household oils.
Your machine should be oiled
occasionally to keep it operating
smoothly. How often depends on
the amount of sewing you do.
Once a year oil your machine
thoroughly as indicated by the
arrows on illustrations.
Avoid over oiling.
38
Page 40
CLEANING AND OILING
THE SHUTTLE AREA
The stitch forming mechanism occasionally becomes clogged with loose threads
and hnt. This will interfere with the
efficient operation of the machine.
Cleaning and removal of the lint will
safeguard the performance
1. Turn hand wheel until the needle
reaches its highest position. Tilt head
back on its hinges.
2. Remove bobbin easel A).
3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps
IT) outward and remove the shuttle
race coyer (C) and the shuttle body
L| cleaner (D).
4. Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle, and
shuttle race cover by removing all
threads, lint, etc.
1. Turn hand wheel until the needle reaches its highest position
been snapped securely into position ^ aking certain the clamps have
4. Put bobbin (B) into bobbin case (A)
cot;Ter“" ““'‘'•'"s Id of
39
Page 41
ADJUSTING BOBBIN WINDER
It may be necessary to adjust the position
of bobbin winder tension discs at the
right front bed plate to align to the
bobbin on bobbin winder, especially,
when thread winds unevenly on bobbin.
If the thread winds unevenly on bobbin
as shown (A), loosen set screw and move
the bobbin winder tension discs slightly
to the left. If the thread winds as shown
(Bj, move the discs slightly to the right.
ADJUSTING AND
CHANGING
MOTOR BELT
To adjust motor belt, loosen the screw
(A) securing the motor bracket (Bj and
move bracket up to loosen belt and down
to tighten. When proper adjustment is
attained, tighten screw securely.
To remove motor belt;
• Remove top cover
• Loosen screw (Aj and move motor
bracket (B) to its highest position.
• Slip belt off motor pully and then over
hand wheel.
• Replace motor belt by slipping it over
hand wheel and then over motor pully.
• Adjust motor belt tension as noted
above.
40
Page 42
PROBLEM AND REMEDIES
#1 BlSfe”°^SS
/ >i'AifoltI pkilllbij or holding material, jdst
tm' -m
..S'
, ^page 13, and rethread machine.
Upfe ' i K^lways start sewing with take-up lever
RerrrtidiL'i • ^
rrtachine the shuttle
BeSlfrjCarrectly (See page 10.)
Cradle or thread to conform .
page 9.)
'■‘"^pefi'beoiMlii fabric, or use
heed lei'
Try different thread.
See needle and thread chart, page 9,
Refer to threading instructions, see
^^oosen upper thread tension.
eeipagelS J
"^n highest position.
-if-iilefer to needle setting instruction, see
' " ' ^ " DrijJltji^ttj.aH. blunt or bent needles and
Ш
Stitch length too long.
15'
lag
with new.
tension adjustment, page 18.
Change needle.
Reduce stitch length.
cm
^S^iis'Beedle plate and^cUji^^t from
Page 43
e B ws«
In addition to the basic set of accessories equipped on your machine, followings are
additional time-saving attachments specially designed for your machine. They are
available at modest cost from your dealer. If your dealer cannot supply you with
these items, ask him to order them for you by part number. Then you will be assured
of receiving the genuine part designed for best performance with your machine. If a
sewing machine dealer is not available, mail your inquiry direct to:
WHITE SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, 11750 Berea Road, Cleveland,
Ohio 44111
or,
WHITE CONSOLIDATED INDUSTRIES, LTD., 1470 Birchmount Rd,
Scarborough, Ontario, Canada.
w-
RUFFLER
PART #1403
ATTACHMENT FOOT
PART #82528
HEMMERS:
7/8"HEM
DARNING SPRING
PART #4990
5/rHEM
BINDER
3/8'HEM
NARROW HEMMER
PART #76316
EDGE-STITCHER
PART #76554
1/4"HEM
PART #76553 PART #76552
PART #76551 part #76550
■
........
' :
bil.
Page 44
ATTACHMENT FOOT
In order to attach binder, edgestitcher and the
hemmers, it is necessary to remove the presser
foot and replace it with the attachment foot.
Mount binder, edgestitcher or hemmers by
sliding the attachment to the left as far as
possible and tightening the screw.
The mounting slot enables you to sew as close to
or as far away from the edge as desired. Just
move the attachment to the correct position
before tightening the mounting screw.
EDGESTITCHER
The edgestitcher is used in making dainty lace
insertions, edgings and piping.
The slots in the edgestitcher serve as guides in
sewing together various pieces of material. If you
want to sew lace, lace and embroidery, or lace
and tucked strips together, place the piece of
material that will be on top in slot 1 and the
lower fabric in slot 4. For instance, if you are
sewing lace edging to a finished edge of fabric,
place the fabric in slot 1 and the lace in slot 4.
Be sure to draw the lace and material under the
needle and back of the edgestitcher so that the
feed will carry it backward as you stitch. Hold
the fabric in the left hand and the lace in the
right, being sure the fabric overlaps the lace
slightly.
Rick-rack-stretch can be sewn to the edge of the
material in the same manner.
To trim with wide piping place the fabric in slot
4, and the fold of the piping to the left in solt 3,
for a narrow piping place fabric in slot 2 and the
folded edge of the piping to the right in slot 3.
Slot 5 may be used as a guide in stitching a
French seam.
43
Page 45
BINDER
This attachment folds bias binding
and applies it to the edge of
material in one operation. Slots on
scroll of the binder are for corres
ponding widths of commercially
folded bias binding.
The open mouth of binder scroll is
used for unfolded bias strips cut
15-16 inch wide.
FOLDED BINDING
Cut folded binding to a point,
insert in appropriate slot. Draw
through slot and under binder with
strong pin. Test stitching to be sure
it is on the edge. Adjust by sliding
binder to right or left.
TWO-TONE BINDING
Two bindings can be sewn on fabric
edge also in one operation. When
two are used always skip one size
between widths, inserting each in
correct size slot.
HAND-CUT BIAS BINDING
Cut 15-16 inch bias binding fold in
half for a couple of inches. Cut
binding diagonally toward end,
almost to fold. Slip fold into center
of binder. Draw back until cut
opens and binding encircles open
end of scroll. Test stitching to be
sure it is on the edge, adjust if
necessary.
See suggestions on how to use the
binder. There are hundreds of other
44
Page 46
THE SET OF HEMIVIERS
Before attaching any of the hemmers, be sure bobbin thread is pulled up.
Then, with hemmer in place, hold top thread loosely and turn
handwheel one- full turn toward you, making a loop under
hemmer. Grasp bobbin thread with both hands and slip horizontally under hemmer
toward back. Bobbin thread will catch loop and carry upper thread to back of
hemmer.
Fold material to suit for two inches along edge, hold at each end of fold. Slip fold
into guide and up.over spoon. Fold hem in material back of hemmer. Draw forward
to end of hem and fasten with point of needle. Pull on threads gently as you start
stitching.
\ '• «V«*« V • V-• • •' V
You can tnake a hem 1/4", 3/8", 5/8" or 7/8" .in width, depending upon which
hemmer you use. A few uses are shown below.
45
Page 47
RÜFFLER
The ruffler will produce yards of delicate ruffling or precision pleating.
Ruffling can also be done and sewn to another piece of fabric at the same time.
This highly versatile attachment despite its wide range of use, is simple to use.
Use the ruffler for making aprons, curtains, pleating a skirt, adding fullness to the
bodice of a dress etc.
46
Page 48
NARHUW HtJVlMtK
With needle at its highest position replace re
gular presser foot with narrow hemmer and ti
ghten it securely in place. Set stitch selector at
symbol !*. Stitch width control at 0 for straight
stitched hem or at number 2 for zigzag stitched
hem. Set stitch length control to suit.
For a plain narrow hem make a 1/8 inch double
fold for about two inches along edge of fabric.
Hold each end of the two inch fold, slip
underneath hemmer. Bring fold up into the scroll
of hemmer, draw fabric forward to end and
fasten with point of needle. Lower pre?ser bar
lifter. Gently pull end of thread as you start
stitching.
Guide material slightly to left and it will take a
double turn through scroll.
The narrow hem provides an excellent finish for
edges of ruffles or any other dainty work.
47
Page 49
t-'isF ^1-="
LACE TRIMMED HEM
To sew a narrow hem and attach
lace in one stitching, insert lace in
the slot next to needle.Sew hem as
shown, guiding lace under needle
and hem into scroll. Rickrack
stretch may be used in the same
way.
LACE EDGE WITH INVISI
BLE STITCHING
Hold lace 1/8 inch from raw edge
on right hand side of fabric. Insert
both in scroll, as for plain narrow
hem, let hem roll over and sew in
lace. When the stitching is complet
ed the hem is pressed on the wrong
side.
FRENCH SEAM
Place material with right sides
facing each other and the top piece
of material 1/8 inch from right
hand edge of lower piece. Insert in_
hemmer scroll allowing hem Xo roll
over and sew in top fabric making
French seam. For cording effect,
use zigzag stitch wide enough to
catch both edges of the narrow
rolled hem and sew with satin
stitch. This can be used for covering
chairs and so forth.
Page 50
TO OBTAIN THE BEST PERFORMANCE FROM
YOUR MACHINE BE SURE THE CABINET,
CARRYING CASE OR OTHER ITEMS USED
WITH YOUR MACHINE ARE GENUINE WHITE
PRODUCTS.
May 1976 • 2200 Printed in Korea
Part No. 76998
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