SINCE 1876 machines
TO OBTAIN THE BEST PERFORMANCE FROM
YOUR MACHINE BE SURE THE CABINET,
CARRYING CASE OR OTHER ITEMS USED
WITH YOUR MACHINE ARE GENUINE WHITE
PRODUCTS.
V^'
Printed in USA
You are now the owner of a new zigzag sewing
machine, the most versatile type of its kind you can
possess.
Buttonholes, monogramming, stretch stitching,
overcasting and creative embroidery are done with ease
and speed.
To aid you in obtaining the greatest performance
from your new WHITE this book on its care and use
has been written for you. Read the instructions
carefully, as a thorough understanding of your machine
W
if
will reward you with many hours of trouble free,
creative sewing.
Time-saving attachments such as rufflers, binders,
edgestitchers, hemmers and others to complement
the accessories furnished with your WHITE are
available from the store where you purchased your
machine.
WHITE SEWING MACHINE COMPANY
Cleveland, Ohio 44111
WHITE CONSOLIDATED INDUSTRIES, LTD.
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
co"4'm
SEttiOta.f -'PfiEOlSjMftiA=R‘Y-4nSIFG!l^M
i
Parts Indentification
Principle Parts.........................................................................................................^
Accessories ............................................................................................................ ^
Installing Machine onto portable case
or cabinet and Connecting Machine........................................................................7
.........
^
Selection of Needles and Threads
Needle-Thread-Fabric-Stitching Guide
Changing Needle.............................................................................................................^9
Changing Needle Plate ................................................................................................. ^9
Selection of Presser Foot..................................i
Winding Bobbin ................................................................................................................
Threading Bobbin Case....................................................................................................
Placing Bobbin Case in Shuttle .......................................................................................
Selection of Stitch
Stitch Length Control
Reverse Push Button.............................................................................................15
Stitch Width Control.............................................................................................. 16
Relating Stitch Length to Stitch Width ..................................................................16
Stretch Stitch Lever ............................................................................................... 17
Stitch Pattern Selector [MODEL 426]....................................................................17
Blind Stitch Selector [MODEL 415] .......................................................................18
Controls
Adjusting Thread Tensions....................................................................................18
Adjusting Pressure on Fabric and Feed Dog Height
Sewing Light...........................................................................................................
Buttonholer [MODELS 415 & 426] 20
Creative Embroidery Control ................................................................................20
...............................................................................
...................................................................................
...................................................................
..............................................................
■•■•15
.............................................
19
8
9
..
Preparing to Sew .............................................................................................................21
Guiding Fabric................................................................................................................. 21
Turning Corners...............................................................................................................21
Curved Seams................................................................................................................. 22
Sewing Across Heavy Seams..........................................................................................22
Removing the Work.........................................................................................................22
Straight Stitch
Seam......................................................................................................................23
Basting/Topstitching...............................................................................................23
Darning.................................................................................................................. 23
Cording/Sewing on Zipper
Quilting...................................................................................................................24
Zigzag Stitch
Overcasting ...........................................................................................................25
....................................................................................
24
"AGE
. 8
. 9
.10
.10
.11
.12
.13
.14
.14
•15
■15
•16
•16
•17
•17
•18
■18
•19
■20
■20
•20
21
21
21
22
22
22
•23
23
23
24
24
25
PAGE
Seaming Knits.........................................................................................................25
Seaming on Buttons ...............................................................................................25
4
6
Sewing Tips............................................................................................................3q
Shaping Dart in Interfacing ..............................................................3q
Multiple Zigzag Stitch [MODEL 426]..................................................................................30
Buttonholes
Preparation ............................................................................................................ 31
Built-In Buttonhole [MODELS 415 & 426]...............................................................32
Turn-Round Buttonhole..........................................................................................33
Corded Buttonhole..................................................................................................33
Blind Hem Stitch [MODELS 415 & 426]
Straight Stretch Stitch .......................................................................................................35
Topstitching
Ultra-Stretch Stitch ,
Rick-Rack Stretch..................
Pine-Leaf Stretch [MODELS 415 & 426]
Special (Jltra-Stretch [MODEL 426] ................................................36
Elastic Application
Overlook Application ......................................................................................... 37
With a Thread Shank.....................................................................................26
Satin Stitching............................................................................
Tapering/Creative Embroidery ...............................................................................27
Manual Embroidery Designs...................................................................................27
Freehand Monogramming.......................................................................................28
Applique/Patching...................................................................................................28
Gathering Over a Cord ...........................................................................................29
Lace Application.................................................................................................... 29
Flutter Hem ............................................................................................................29
...........................................................................
...........................................................................................................
..............................
........................................................
...................................................35
3-7
.............................
26
34
35
N VI CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR MACHINE
Oiling Machine................................................................................................................. 33
Cleaning and Oiling Shuttle Area................................................................................... _39
Adjusting Bobbin Winder.................................................................................................^40
Adjusting and Changing Motor Belt..........................................................................! ! ! AO
Problem and Remedies................................................................................................... 41
SECTION VII SPECIAL STTACH
Attachment Foot................................................................................................................43
Edgestitcher.................................................................^....................................................43
Binder.................................................................................................................................44
Folded Binding.......................................................................................................44
Two-Tone Binding..................................................................................................44
Hand-Cut Bias Binding ..........................................................................................44
The Set of Hemmers .......................................................................................................4g
Ruffler
Narrow Hemmer............................................................................................ 47
Lace Trimmed Hems............................................................................................43
Lace Edge with Invisible Stitching
French Seam
Hemming Across A Seam ............................................................................. ... .48
.................................................................................................... . *48
........................................................
..!...! A8
.46
SECTIOW I
PARTS IDENTIFICATION
PRINCIPLE PARTS
(D®
FRONT VIEW
BACK VIEW
MODEL 404
1. Take-up
2. Pressure Control
3. Top Thread Guides
4. Stitch Pattern Window
[Model 426]
5. Stitch Pattern Selector
[Model 426] .
6. Selector Release
[Model 426]
Blind Stitch Selector
[Model 415] ,
7. Creative Embroidery
Control
8. Bobbin Winder
9. :' Hand Wheel
10. Clutch nut
11. Stitch Width Control
12. Stretch Stitch Lever
Aiwayl _ ,
eadi^Jli№ "
.ForinSicatihc
13. Stitch Length Control
14. Reverse Push Button
S'
15. Feed Dog Height
Control •
16. Needle Plate
17. Feed Dog ,
18. Presser Foot
19. Slide Plate
20. Thumb Screw
21. Needle Clamp
22. Tension Clamp
23. Check spring
24. Thread Guard
[Model 426]
25. Light Switch
26. Face Cover
27. Bobbin Winder
Tension disc
28. Presser Foot Lever
29. Thread Cutter
30. Head Hinge Holes
31. Spool Pins
ACCESSORIES 77AfiT
Your nevil White sewing machine comes equipped with the following set of accessories
to make your stitchings the best to suit with your fabric and sewing purpose.
METAL BOBBINS
For your j^re bdb?,
bins \ * ’
various color t
A PACK OF NEEDLES
For.
assortfn
. 'h"'.
, .TegMJsu.-
needle
SPOOL CUSHIONS
STRAIGHT STITCH FOOT& NEEDLE PLATE
straight stitch
-in i very s^ieer
:Sir,.,'vei^'. light
r^gHi ■ stretchy' ,nii7;'
-.where -'■■■extra
'needed. ■'■- ■ ^
'--■■■■■ '
BUTTON FOOT
ivy-: ■ ■■ . -...
"^^"i^^ihg’buttdns-"
- '-'at;: sbtch-
‘ ^ ^ ^
BUTTONHOLE FOOT
...A-
■ .■'!
SCREW DRIVERS
Srnall pne^^QriM'iO*^^ '
% bobbin,-. tfifead^en-:
I Sion' ' '■ l adju^rtment.
^ Large ope fof^;^ion
^ thumbiiscreWi'titMdle«
■> clampj etc. '--f'S ■
OILER
CLOTH GUIDE WITH SCREW
QUILTING GUIDE
CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT
■i'A'
... fe-siitching very
'■JijldleP'to Ythe edge
or: z i ppe r.
■•■ f-
№■;;■■■ B---
-V:;
•V- «■ *
INSTALLING MACHINE HEAD ONTO PORTABLE CASE
'les
LATE
OR CABINET-AND CONNECTING MACHINE
Loosen both head hinge set screws
on the rear side back of machine
bed plate until head hinge holes
are clear.
Tilt head hinge pins up and back
as far as they will go.
Carefully slip machine head onto
hinges — making sure the head
hinge pins are inserted as far as
they can go into head hinge holes.
Allow machine head to rest in its
tilted back position.
Tighten both set screws securely
with screwdriver.
*1
-.’y-Sl
1
-^tf
JÌR
Cl
iv-y
_ f A
Plug electrical leads from machine
head into sockets located inside
cabinet or portable case. Cord
identified with "motor” tag must
be plugged into socket marked
"motor”. Untagged cord goes to
"light” socket.
Insert plug into a wall outlet of
110-115 Volts.
NOTE: Where three wire ground
ing is provided connect the plug
from the sewing machine to the
connection leading from the speed
control. One prong is larger than
the other three, eliminating the
possibility of error. Insert plug
into a wall outlet of 110—115
Volts.
SiiCTtGiv
SELECTION OF NEEDLES AND THREADS
The needle and thread you choose depends
upon the fabric you are stitching. The correct
selection of needle and thread is very important
to avoid damaging the fabrics of light weight,
or tightly woven fabrics, and to prevent
skipstitches when sewing on very sheer stretchy
fabrics or needle breakage when stitching heavy
or stiff fabrics. For best results, sewing machine
needles should be replaced when they become
even slightly dull or bent or at the completion
of every other garment.
A regular needle is suggested for use with
woven fabrics. Needles, style 15 x 1, of the
range in size from 8 to 20 are used on this
machine. The lower number indicates the finer
needle. The most commonly used sizes are 11
and 14.
.
..........
A ball point needle fs recommended for use
with tricots, jerseys, lingeries and power nets.
Unlike sharp pointed needles, which pierce
fibers of knit fabrics destroying elasticity,the
ball point needle slips between fibers without
damage to fabric and skipped stitches.
A wedge point needle is recommended for use
with leather and leather-look vinyls. A wedge
cutting point pierces leather more easily than
ordinary sewing machine needles, resulting in
more satisfactory stitching.
Although it is recommended to use a ball point
needle for knit fabrics, when sewing on very
stretchy fabrics of knits, the underlay of a thin
paper below the fabric and the use of a finer
needle are suggested to prevent skip stitches.
Always use the same type and size of thread
in both needle and bobbin. Use good
quality thread without knots for best stitches.
8
NEEDLE - THREAD - FABRIC - STITCHING GUIDE
JT
Extremely heavy
tarpaulin, sacking,
canvas, duck, etc.
Heavy upholstery
fabric, ticking,
denim, leatherette.
Medium heavy drapery
fabric, velveteen,
suiting, felt, terry, etc.
Medium broadcloth,
percale, gingham, linen,
chintz, taffeta, sheer
wool, shantung, etc.
Sheer voile, lawn, ^
dimity, crepe,
handkerchief linen.
Plastic film, etc.
18
18
16
14
11
6
to
8
8
to"
10
10
to
12
12
to
14
14
to
16
(plastic film)
8 to 10
Heavy Duty
Heavy Duty
Heavy Duty
50
50
O
o
AT
Very sheer chiffon,
batiste, lace, organdy,
nylon net, marquisette, etc.
16
to
20
60
o
CHANGING NEEDLE
Aiwavs change the needle after every
other garment especially when
..^к;p.;ter and nylon fabrics whmh dull
needles much faster. When needles are
Hull or bent, they damage both your
fabric and the machine. A general rule
when placing sewing machine needles is
Tharthe flat side oi the needle is placed
to the right of the machme when the
bobbin is put in from- the 1^- ' ^
needle is inserted incorrectly, the stitches
will not form.
To change the needle . - u
1 Raise the needle bar to its highest
■ position by turning the hand wheel
toward you.
2. Loosen needle clamp to remove the
3. Rafe'^needle (flat side to the rightjnd
long groove to the left) in the J»eed1€
clamp and push it upward as far as it
will go, tighten needle clamp.
4 After changing the needle, make one
■ complete turn of the hand wheel by
hand to be sure the needle is clearing
the needle plate.
CHANGING NEEDLE PLATE
Although an all-purpose utility needle
Zlte is fixed on your machine for
Haight sewing on fine fabric or soft or
very stretchy fabric, you may want to use
the straight stitch ne^^ plate togethe
with the straight stitch foot, both ot
which are included in your accessory box.
To change the needle dimply shde
the slide plate as far
Remove the two screws holding the
plate in place. Lift the needle plate and
replace. _
The needle plate is removed for cleaning^
"int which may pile up between
needle plate and feed dogs.
0
SELECTION OF PRESSER FOOT
For most ordinary stitchings the original all-purpose foot can be used. However,
it is recommended to use following special foot in your accessory box whenever
you want better stitching result.
Straight Stitch Foot
This has only a narrow hole to ac
comodate only straight stitching. It may
be used on sheer or soft fabrics for more
control. When using this foot, the Stitch
Width should be "0" to avoid hitting the
foot and breaking the needle.
Buttonhole Foot
This foot has a groove underneath, to
allow the narrow satin stitch or button-
^Jiole to form evenly. However, if
skip-stitch occurs with this foot,
apply the underlay of a thin paper below
the fabric.
m
^TE jj
.
’■ • V-■■■ -n-
■■ rt ',
■ ■■■■ ■■■ ■;
:■ :V;v ■ '■
.......
-t.
...............................................................
■ J
I,.
Cording or Zipper Foot, and Button Foot
Use for sewing very close to the edge of a
cord or zipper, and sewing on buttons
respectively.
CHANGING FOOT
Use the large screwdriver to loosen thumb
screw. Turn the screw backward until the
foot becomes loose. Then, lift up on
presser foot lever until it is in its highest
position in order to remove the foot.
Replace with desired foot and tighten
thumb screw securely.
WINDING BOBBIN
Disengage the hand wheel (1) frpm
the stitching mechanism by turning
the clutch nut (2) toward you or
counter-clockwise.
Place a spool of thread on one of
the spool pins and lead thread
through the rear Top Thread Guide
(3) after hooking on Bobbin Winder
Tension Disc •
Run the end of thread through a
hole in the bobbin edge and place
bobbin on spindle of bobbin winder
(4) fitting the notch on bobbin over
small spring click on spindle.
Push bobbin winder (4) to the
right, and hold the thread end
loosely then start machine slowly.
Bobbin will stop winding when it is
filled. Push bobbin winder (4) to»
the left.
Turn clutch nut away from you
until sewing mechanism is again
engaged so that needle moves when
you turn the hand wheel.
Break off loose thread end used to
start the winding and cut other
thread end. Then remove bobbin
from bobbin winder.
12
D
UPPER THREADING
1. Turn the hand wheel toward you
to raise the take-up lever to its
highest position.
2. Place a spool of thread on the
spool pin.
3. Lead the thread through the top
thread guides.
4. Down and between the tension
discs, from right to left.
5. Draw the thread up through the
check-spring and with a slight
tug into the hook.
mw
6. Up (Model 426 only .... behind
the front thread guard) and
through the eye of take-up lever
from right to left.
Lead thread down, through the
thread guide at the bottom of
the threading slot (Model 426
only ... .after drawing thread
behind the front thread guard),
then, through the needle bar
thread guide from the back.
8. Thread the needle FROM LEFT
TO RIGHT, drawing it through
about 3 or 4 inches. Hold the
end of the upper thread loosely
and turn the hand wheel toward
you until the needle goes all the
way down and comes back up. A
thread loop will form over
the upper thread which then can
be pulled out straight. Place
both thread ends under presser
foot and draw toward the back
of the machine, leaving both
threads three or four inches
long.
THREADING BOBBIN CASE
1. Hold bobbin case be
tween thumb and fore
finger of left hand, so
that the slot in the edge
of the bobbin case is on
top. Take the bobbin
between thumb and fore
finger of right hand so
that the thread on top
leads from left to right.
2. Insert bobbin into bob
bin case, pull the thread
into the slot of the
bobbin case and draw it
under tension spring and
into the fork-shaped
opening of the spring.
mim.
i -'i rifirfv
PLACING BOBBIN CASE IN SHUTTLE
Raise needle bar to its highest position, and slide plate to
the left. Hold the bobbin case latch (D) between the
thumb and forefinger of the left hand, with at least three
inches of thread running from the top of the bobbin case
to the right. Insert and center the bobbin case on the
stud of the shuttle body (C). Be sure the bobbin case
finger (E), is opposite the shuttle race notch (A). Press
the bobbin case (B) into the shuttle as far as possible
until the latch catches on the center post of the shuttle.
Then release the bobbin case latch (D). Press the bobbin
case again after the latch has been released to make sure
the bobbin case is locked securely in place. Close the
slide plate.
14
ITT
Uj
sss
SELECTION.OF STITCH
STITCH LENGTH CONTROL
ivV;': Ai
■Ai
Ì.-Y
c-l
»
The stitch length control controls the forward feeding of
the fabric in ordinary sewing.
At 0, the fabric does not feed at all. With the control
around the red mark for buttonhole, the shortest stitch
is available. At 5 is the longest — about 6 stitches per
inch on ordinary fabrics - but the control may be set at
any desired spot between 0 and 5 for a variety of length,
except when ^tretch stitching ( triple back-and-forth
stitching), the cóntro! should be always at 5. Turn
the control to the left to lengthen and to the right to
shorten the stitch.
The stitch length number you choose is indicated by the
pointer above the control.
The stitch length in stretch stitching (triple back-andforth stitching)can not be altered by the control, but it is
fixed about 3/64 inch of trouble-free stretch stitch
length on most kinds of fabrics with the stretch stitch
control iV'S'' and the stitch length control at "5”.
Ife
iiiSif
I'AA-A'K
REVERSE PUSH BUTTON
When you wish to sew backward to tie the threads at the beginning or end of a seam
in ordinary sewing, press the Reverse Push Button as far as it will go, so that your
machine sews in reverse at approximately the same stitch length as forward stitch
length. The machine will sew backward as long as the button is held in.
Cross reference table between numeral on the control and number of actual stitches
per inch
-■
■■■= T.'.- J ■■ ».'.-a-:-:- V
....
: :■ ■ v... ■■■* t--'- ..
........... '-i.-v./fv... -y;-'
Number. Qf;^ti^è?:per;incl:i.Ja ^Ì)Jó,Ì;F;éedii^;.::: ^.26/;
15
STITCH WIDTH CONTROL
This control controls the swing of the
needle from left to right for various width
of stitches. At 0, the straight stitch line
results in ordinary sewing. Also, the
special stitch patterns as per those shown
in the stitch pattern window of Model
426 are made with this control at 0.
With the control at any other point than
"0", ordinary straight stitches varies to
zigzag stitches. Also, every special pattern
stitch varies in complex pattern with^
stitch width variation, on Model 426.
At 1, the needle takes a narrow sewing
resulting in a narrow column of stitching
in ordinary sewing. At 4, the needle takes
a large swing resulting in a wide column
of stitches no matter which pattern is
selected.
V'i r-!
I
RELATING STITCH LENGTH TO
STITCH WIDTH
When the Stitch width control is set at
one particular width (such as 4), the
stitch length control will now control how
close those stitches come together. At
length 0, the fabric does not move,
resulting in a bar of stitches formed one
on top of the other, as is used in button
sewing. At red bar mark or near 0, the
feed pulls the fabric through slowly,
resulting in a dense column of stitches
called a satin stitch. At length 5, a very
long open zigzag results.
STRETCH STITCH LEVER
Selection between ordinary stitching and triple automatic back-and-
forth stitching called stretch stitch is made by the stretch stitch lever.
With the lever up at M position, ordinary sewing is performed. With
the lever down at S position, your machine performs automatically
the stretch stitch with the repetition of two forward and one
backward stitch combination.
A reinforced seam of stretch stitch that will stretch considerably
more than the fabric used.is the most wanted feature in a sewing
machine today.
Its uses are almost unlimited and the more you use your machine the
more it will become apparent to you.
When stretch stitching, the stitch length control should be always set
at 5.
STITCH PATTERN SELECTOR [MODEL 426]:
In addition to ordinary straight and zigzag stitches, six special utility pattern stitches
of forward sewing, also, with stretch stitch lever at S position, six those complex
special stretch pattern stitches of triple back-and-forth stitching can be selected by
stitch pattern selector.
The stitch pattern you choose is shown by the indicator in stitch pattern window
above the pattern selector; '
To turn the stitch pattern selector to,cha«ge the stitch pattern of your selection;
1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you.
2. Pushing the selector release lever to the right by your right hand, turn the pattern
selector to the right for stitch patterns shown right from the original stitch pattern
in stitch pattern window and to the left for stitch patterns shown left.
3. Release your right hand from selector release lever to return it to original stitch
pattern selector lock position.
For ordinary zigzag and straight sewing, set the indicator at the left end "Manual"
position, with stretch stitch lever at M.
The stitch patterns shown upper side in the row of "Elastic Stitches" in stitch
pattern window are available with stretch stitch lever at M, and those shown lower
row marked "Stretch Stitches" are available with stretch stitch lever at S. For those
special pattern stitchings other than ordinary zigzag and Rick-Rack stretch (triple
back-and-forth zigzag) stitching, stitch width control should be at 0.
,:i#s
17
BLIND STITCH SELECTOR [MODEL 415]
Automatic blind hem stitching and Pine-leaf stretch
hem stitching is available on Model 415 with blind
stitch selector to the left. The former is made with ^
stretch stitch lever at M and the latter is with it at S.
For both, stitch width control should be at 0.
In ordinary stitching, this control be at M position. In shifting the control to
position, lift the control up a little bit, then shift it to the right.
CONTROLS:
ADJUSTING THREAD TENSIONS
Always adjust the upper thread
tension with the presser foot down, ^
as the tension is released when it is
raised. To increase the tension on
the upper thread, turn tension
control to the right. To decrease,
turn to the left. Before adjusting
the tension be sure that the
machine is threaded properly.
It is seldom required to adjust
the bobbin thread tension,
however, when necessary to change
bobbin thread tension, turn |Riall
screw on side of the bobbin'*^cafe
clockwise to tighten , counterclock
wise to lobsen.
I ;,r-' ■■■■■ ■ ■■ ■ ’■ ’ yi'"';.'«
■ .■.■.■■:■'■■-.■/ r • \ ;>i-■■.;
■ ■ ■■';i ; ■.■
■:: ■. ■ ■■' '. i ■■■ I ; ;':
V: \ '"v: K1 ■. -i.'.
■ ■ ■ V-.: • .3 •i.J: ■
i
When both tensions are properly
balanced, a perfect stitch will be
formed with both threads interlock
ing in fabric (A).
When the upper tension is too tight,
the bobbin thread is pulled up over
the upper thread which is lying flat
on the fabric (B).
When the upper tension is too
loose, the upper thread forms loops
over the bobbin thread lying flat on
the fabric (C).
When the upper and bobbin thread
tensions are balanced but fabric is
puckered in sewing direction on
sheer fabrics, both tensions are too
tight. Loosen both tensions evenly.
It is recommended to adjust the
tension balance under medium
stitch length. In case of satin
stitching for buttonholes and em
broidery, slightly loosen the upper
thread tension.
8
M
3 M
ADJUSTING PRESSURE ON FABRIC AND FEED DOG HEIGHT
• GENERAL SEWING
Usually for normal sewing, except for sewing on
very sheer soft or very stretchy fabrics, the
center pin (B) of the pressure control be at its
lowest position and the feed dog height control
be turned to the right, "HIGH” position.
For sewing on such very sheer. soft medium or
lightweight stretchy fabrics as very sheer
voil, lawn, silk geogette crepe, plastic film,
organdy, nylon net, very stretchy synthetic tricot
and jersey, etc., reduce half the pressure on the
fabric ancF the feed dog height. To reduce half
the pressure, press the outer ring (A) of the
pressure control, then press the center pin (B)
down again to halfway spot. To reduce half the
feed dog height, turn the feed dog height control
to "LOW" position.
.¿Teed rdpg
;^heightf '
Heavy and ^medium weight fabrics .
M ed i u m weight^ very: stretch y; fa brfc
> /s'
if”"; •
, Very sheer ioft fabrics and lightweight
M':..and sheer very stretchy synthetic fabrics:
"X^'.'Half
-.'jX"'- . ■ ■
-
Half •::? f Jflsi*««
'jVi’i:-,'. '
■
• MENDING AND DARNING:
In order to move the fabric freely in any direction for darning and mending, release
the center pin (B) completely by pressing down on the outer ring (A). Turn the feed
dog height control to "DOWN" position, which drops the feed dog well below the
if'
needle plate. To return the feed dog height to normal, turn the control to "HIGH"
position.
SEWING LIGHT
The sewing light is located in face cover directly over the
needle so as to better illuminate the stitching area.
Turn the light on and off by pushing the switch
on face cover. •
To replace bulb, turn light off and open face cover to
the left. Unscrew bulb as you do a conventional light
bulb. Place new bulb in socket and screw in place.
BUTTONHOLER (MODELS 415^ AND 426)
On models 415 and 426, the stitch width control knob is
used also for buttonholing. With the control at the red
square mark (1), the machine sews forward on the 'eft
edge of buttonhole with the stitch width of about 1/1 b
inch. At the red square mark (2—4), the buttonhole end
is bartacked about 5/32 inch wide without feeding. At
the red mark (3), the right edge of buttonhole is stitched
in reverse with same about 1/16 inch width as the left
edge of buttonhole. / i •
Therefore, simply by turning^thir control from 1 to 4 in
sequence for every step of fttittonholing, a very fine
buttonhofe of the size about 5/32 inch wide with a
center open cut space of about 2/32 inch is produced.
The stitch length control should be set at the satin stitch
position in the red mark "Bottonhole" there.
I t. ■: : :T V-;
■ ■■■ V
CREATIVE EMBROIDERY CONTROL
This is the alternative stitch width control capable of varying the stitch wid
while sewing. With the machine set for a short stitch length, different esigns c
be made by simply applying pressure on the creative embroidery lever flow k
to rTght This lever is spring controlled and will always return to straight sewinc
i -rst.
f, ■■■■
riVE EMBBPlt^:^
'rr>'-.yl
-, . -.-.-i
•r-. /ii
^ ■ • • ' • - - f'T: .
20
SECTION 0
PREPARING TO SEW
Have take-up lever at highest position before starting to sew. Pinning may be used
as a time saver instead of hand basting. It is possible to sew over pins when placed at
right angles to the edge of fabric with the pin head at the raw edge, but for best
results it is recommended that the pins be removed as you approach the presser foot.
Sewing over pins can result in damaged needles.
Place material and threads under presser foot and lower the presser foot. Lovyer the
needle by turning hand wheel by hand to check if the needle will pierce the stitching
line you want to sew. You are now ready to begin sewing. Press the speed control.
The speed of the machine running is regulated by increasing or decreasing the amount
of pressure exerted on the control. Never run machine without material under
presser foot.
GUIDING FABRIC
width
IS can
left
ving.
Except blind stitching and pine-leaf stretch hem stitching, also, buttonhole-stitching
by buttonholer of models 415 and 426, straight stitch seam and the left line of zigzag
stitch column is run over the left end etched scale on needle plate. The scale is etched
with every 1/8 inch distance. Let the edgf,of fabric follow the line selected for the
seam, and let your eyes follow the efched line you selected for the seam, not the
needie, during seyving. To help youT guiding fabric, place cloth guide attachment
securing it by the extra thumb screw onto machine bedplate. Cloth guide and extra
thumb screw are included in your accessary box.
Do not try to help the feeding by pulling the material as this may deflect the needle
and cause it to break.
TURNING CORNERS
To pivot at a corner, leave the needle in the fabric while its upward stroke. Lift the
presser foot, turn the fabric, then lower the presser foot and continue sewing.
CURVED SEAMS
Use slightly shorter stitch length
than that of the rest of the seams.
On the part where elasticity is
required on the seam, sew by
stretch stitch. The cloth guide may
be used an angle as shown.
SEWING ACROSS HEAVY
SEAMS
When approaching heavy searn,
hold the fabric upward on an angle
so that the heavy seam falls under
the front curved sled of presser
foot.
■ t' ■
REMOVING THE WORK
Be, sure to stop the machine when
the thread take-up lever or needle
bar is at the highest position.
Now raise the presser foot and draw
the fabric back and to the left
and pass the threads over the
thread cutter.
Pull down slightly, holding thr®^°
in both hands, so as not to bend the
noodle
Leave the ends of threads under
the presser foot.
IT t'
22
SECTION V
STRAIGHT STITCH; ,
SEAMS
[Pattern: M or Manual
models 415 & 426]
Length; 2—3
Width: 0
Feed Dog: High
Pressure; Full
Foot; Straight Stitch or
All Purpose
Stretch Control; M
[Pattern: M or Manual
models 415 & 426]
Length: 4—5
Width: 0
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: Straight Stitch
Stretch Control: M"
The normal stitch length for most fabrics
is between 2—3 but the length chosen
should depend on the fabric and area of
usage. Usually, heavier fabrics require
longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics
require shorter stitches. For curved seams
and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch
length. Be sure to set the stitch width
control at 0.
B ASTI NG/TOPSTITCHING
Sewing a seam with a longer stitch is
useful for temporary seams prior to
fitting. Basting stitches also may be used
when gathering in fullness.
Topstitching can be done very effectively
with the long straight stitch. For a bolder
stitch, two threads of the same type can
be threaded through one needle (size 14
or 16). A heavier thread such as
buttonhole twist may be used for
topstitching, but be sure to use a larger
needle (size 16 or 18).
%
'■■y
[ Pattern: M or Manual
models 415 & 426]
Length:0
Width: 0
Feed Dog: Down
Pressure: 0
Foot: All Purpose, or
DarningSpring of White
Special attachment
Stretch Control: M
DARNING
Worn spots or small holes can be darned
very easily. Use of an embroidery hoop is
optional depending on the fabric. A fine
thread is recommended so that the fabric
and thread will blend together invisibly.
Trim the ragged edges from the area to be
darned. Hold the threads to start, then
move the fabric slowly backwards and
forwards while running the machine very
fast to fill the area. More professional
results will be attained by moving the
fabric in a figure eight pattern while
sewing. After filling in the area length
wise, reweave with crosswise stitches in
the same manner.
23
CORDING/SEWING IN ZIPPER
• INSERT CORDING
(A) Fold bias strip of fabric over
cord. Loosen the adjusting
screw on the back of cording/
zipper foot and set the foot to
the left of needle.
(B) Sandwich the welting between
two layers of fabric with right
sides together. Stitch a second
time with cording/zipper foot
to the right of needle so that
the needle stitches close to the
cord through all thicknesses.
• ZIPPERS
Swing the foot to left, or right of
the needle as needed so that the
foot sews very close to zipper teeth.
QUILTING
Parallel straight lines are easy to
sew with the quilting guide. To
attach the guide, loosen thumb
screw and slip the U-shaped holder
of the guide between presser foot
and thumb screw. Tighten the
thumb screw securely. Adjust the
curved bar to the desired distance
from the needle. Sew the first line
of stitching as desired, then, for the
succeeding rows let the guide
follow along the previous stitch
line. A straight stitch, zigzag, or any
other stitch may be used.
24
ZIGZAG STITCH:
OVERCASTING
[Pattern: M or Manual
models 415 and 426]
Length: 1—3
Width: 3-4
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
[Pattern: M or Manual
models 415 and 426]
Length: 1
Width: 1-3
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
Place the edge of the material underneath
the opening of the sewing foot and guide
raw edge along the center slot of the foot
allowing stitch to form half on and half
off the fabric.
The multiple stitch zigzag is a wiser
choice on Model 426 for most fabrics.
See page 30.
SEAMING KNITS
The narrow zigzag can be used in seams
of firm knits for added strength. After
sewing, open seam and press flat. Tiny
zigzag stitches can hardly be seen and the
seam will give when stretched.
[Pattern: M or Manual-
models 415 and 426]
Length: 0
Width: 2-4
Feed Dog: Down
Pressure: Full
Foot: Button Foot
Stretch Control: M
SEWING ON BOTTONS
Place the button so its left hole comes
directly under the needle of its left zigzag
swing then gently lower the button foot.
Take a stitch into the hole.
Raise the needle from the left hole, and
move zigzag width control to the right
until the needle comes down exactly over
the right hole in the button.
Note: Be sure the needle clears the holes
of the button by moving the wheel by
hand before running the machine fast.
Usually 6 to 8 stitches are adequate for
securing a button in place. Stop with the
needle in the left hole. To lock the
threads, set the stitch width at 0, and
take a few stitches in the left hand hole.
<¡3
21
f
M
SEWING ON BUTTON
WITH A THREAD SHANK
Buttons sewn on coats
have a thread shank o JP^«^^,ead
away from the fabric. To form
shank, sew over a pm or
toothpick. K.ittnn to the fabric.
After stitching the bu«o foot
remove work inches from
ill
leaving threads pull the
™ri Ttock of bittorrnd form =
rSierPoli &s to back of the
and tie thread ends securely.
■. V-.: > ■■■ ■ . :■■■ ■
. - ■!■ ‘Ibw. ^ Jyi •
I
I
SATIN STITCHING
monogrammingand app ique. ^
The seam stitch which is realiy^l ^
ill
very close zigzag stitc , ,,q„
setting the stitch leng feeding
possible w.thout stopp^ bar marked
action or at for
"buttonhole . ^ desirable to
different fabrics. I Y .. . ^o cause
loosen the upper ension shg^J
the threads to '0^^ "jn ggpecially
to make the top su x juries place a
snrooth. For ''9';“X /at f for best
paper underneath the taor
results.
[Pattern-. Wl or Manual-rnodels 415 and 426]
Length: % or "Buttonhole
Width: 1-4
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
26
|i^№p
mm0
TAPERING/CREATiVE
EMBROIDERY
Tapering is done by gradually increasing
and decreasing the stitch width by
moving creative embroidery control while
sewing. By this method, tapered mono
grams and other interesting designs can be
created. For tapered monogram run the
machine fast while sliding the creative
embroidery control slowly from left to
right and from right to left.
First, learn this stroke by letting the
fabric guide straight. Then, learn to pivot
the fabric as you are tapering by holding
the fabric at one point. Various strokes
can be combined to form letters and
designs. Variegated thread can give
attractive results.
[Pattern; M or Manual-models 415 and 426]
Length: Near 0
Width: 0
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
MANUAL EMBROIDERY DESIGNS
Different designs can be made by sliding
the creative embroidery control between
left and right. By running the machine at
a constant speed and sliding the creative
embroidery control in a definite rhythum, various designs can be created.
[Pattern: M or Manual-models 415 and 426]
Length': near 0
Width: 0
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
■■■
FREEHAND MONOGRAMM ING
For giving garments and linens a per
sonalized touch, first transfer the design
to the right side of the fabric. An
embroidery hoop is recommended es
pecially for soft fabrics and toweling.
In order to monogram, you must move
the fabric slowly and run the machine
rapidly. Monogramming is like writing by
moving the paper under a stationary pen.
Guide the fabric slowly so that the zigzag
falls close together like a satin stitch, but
be careful that the stitches do not pile up.
When guiding from side to side, mov§,
fabric slightly faster to avoid a heavy
area.
Practice by forming loops. Once this is
accomplished any letter is easy.
Sometimes the use of paper or non-woven
interfacing under the fabric may make
guiding the fabric easier. The paper or
interfacing may be torn or cut away at
the completion of the monograrn.When
monogramming towels, plastic film plac
ed on the top will help cover lc|pp^and
make the monogram smooth. BilH 'br cut
away remaining plastic film wTieri finish
ed.
t Pattern: M or Manual -
models 415 and 426]
Length:0
Width: 1-4
Feed Dog; Down
Pressure: 0
Foot; All Purpose or
Darning Spring of
White special
attachment
Stretch Control: M
APPLIQUE/PATCHING
Applying decorative shapes of fabric
scraps to household articles and clothing
is a very interesting way of trimming an
otherwise plain article. First, trace the
design on fabric to be appliqued, or
patched then pin or baste it securely in
place on garment. With a small straight
stitch or narrow zigzag, sew around the
transferred design or patch.
After excess fabric is trimmed away, sew
around the applique or patch with a satin
stitch or short length zigzag stitch. For a
smooth curve, stop frequently at the
inside edge of the curve to pivot the
fabric slightly. Corners look much better
when the point is stitched by pivoting
rather than just turned.
As with all decorative stitches, paper may
be used to give more body to the fabric
when stitching and can be torn away
when the applique is completed.
Step 1
[Pattern: M or Manual
models 415 and 426]
Length: 1
Width; 0-1
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
Step 2
[Pattern; M or Manual
models 415 and 426]
Length: 'A—h
Width: 2-4
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
28
:-i -| .
щЩ'л- Щ
iJ .* • »i
г ■■. ^*'Ч j;k ■^■^т:^■yVl^ ■4^,-=:<i;•;«*i>-'5:: ”1-уЛ'(
/ ■ ■■.■■:7‘r ¿i'.; iii-jji^^i?^
GATHERING OVER A CORD
Ordinary gathering with a basting stitch
often breaks while pulling in fullness,
small zigzag across a cord such as crochei
thread or carpet thread, gives a much
stronger cord for gathering fullness intc
fabrics. Once the gathers have beer
stitched in place, the cord can be pullec
out in order to eliminate bulk.
[Pattern: M or Manual-models 415 and 426]
Length; 2
Width: 2
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
LACE APPLICATION
Attaching laces or trims adds a specia
touch to lingerie, dresses, or linens. Pin oi
baste lace in place easing or miterinc
corners where neccessary.
A straight edged lace or braid has г
convenient line to follow when sewing
When using a scalloped edged lace follov\
the design of the lace for an almos
invisible application.
[Pattern: M or Manual-models 415 and 426]
Length: ’Л—1
Width: 1-2
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
'&Ш‘
i/; 'К-':;
FLUTTER HEM
An unusual way of hemming of finishini
edges of tricot or soft knits is by a fluttei
edge. Hemming in this manner is just lik(
overcasting an edge, but the fabric i:
stretched in back and in front of the
needle as you sew. For best results, pul
the fabric equally, making sure the needle
goes over the edge. When you stop tc
reposition your hands, keep the needle ir
the fabric.
[Pattern: M or Manual-.models 415 and 426]
Length; Va—'A
Width: 4
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
SEWING TIPS
When a dainty hair line finish is
particularly desirable for the inside seams
of sheer collars, facings, and yokes, seam
allowance that would ordinarily show
through is eliminated by following the
seam outline with a narrow zigzag stitch.
Trim seam allowance close to line of
stitching. Turn and press.
[Pattern; Manual or M-models 415 & 426]
Length: 'A—l
Width: 'A-1
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
SHAPING DARTS IN
INTERFACINGS
Cut interfacing down center between dart
lines. Overlap cut edges, matching dart
lines. Zigzag stitch along marking line
from point to wide end of dart. Trim
both raw edges close to stitching.
[Pattern: Manual or M-models 415 & 426]
Length: A—i
Width:’/2-1 .
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
MULTIPLE ZIGZAG STITCH [MODEL 426]
The multiple zigzag stitch can be used for
hundreds of various kinds of sewing applications,
such as replacing worn blanket bindings for both
a decorative and' durable finish, overcasting an
edge to prevent fraying, applying elastic waist
bands to skirts and dresses, sewing a zigzag stitch
on soft or sheer material preventing puckering,
etc.
Just sew like ordinary zigzag stitching.
[ Pattern:
Stitch Length; 4—5
Width: 0
Feed Dog: High
Pressure; Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control; M
30
BUTTONHOLES
Various fabrics require various methods of sewing
buttonholes. Four different methods are given below,
with suggested uses. If you are in doubt as to which
method is best for your fabric, test the methods in
question and choose the best according to the finished
appearance.
■■■
PREPARATION
For the best results, a good quality mercerized cotton
thread should^be used. Polyester threads often result in
puckered or lieavy unattractive buttonholes. The finer
your fabric is, the finer your cotton thread should be.
An interfacing should be used under the buttonholes to
give body, to strengthen, and to help them withstand
wear.
To establish the correct length of the buttonhole, add
the length of the button (A), plus the thickness of the
button (B), plus 1/32 inch for the bartacks. The length
may be marked on the garment with a basting stitch,
tailor's chalk, or an invisible cellophane tape, as shown.
HorizontSTbuttonholes should extend 1/8 inch beyond
the centerline of the garment. Vertical buttonholes are
placed so that the cutting space of the buttonhole is
directly on the center line.
Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of the
garment fabric before making any buttonholes on your
garment. On your test sample, duplicate the thicknesses
found in the garment and be sure to include the
interfacing. The test sample should help determine the
length needed for the button to pass through the hole
easily, as well as the stitch length needed for the
particular fabric. As with the satin stitch, the stitches
should be close together, but not so close that they pile
up. Be sure to use the buttonhole foot.
TER UNE-, .. ,■
3ARMENT .. :
S
t
BUILT-IN BUTTONHOLE
Pattern: M or manual
[MODELS 415 & 426]
This buttonhole eliminates the need for pivoting
the fabric. It is used most often on light and
medium woven fabrics.
1. Set the stitch width control for the red square
marked (1) buttonhole position. Lower needle
into the mark at the top left end of buttorv
hole Lower jarosser foot and sew on the left
edge of buttonhole until you reach the bottom
end of buttonhole.
2 Stitch width control to the (2-4) position
take a few stitch to bartack the bottom end
of buttonhole.
Length: Buttonhole
Width: 1-2-3-4
Feed Dog: High-Down
Pressure: Full
Foot: Buttonhole Foot
Stretch Stitch: M
3. With the needle up, turn the stitch width
control to the (3) position. Sew on the right
edge of buttonhole.At this position the ma
chine is feeding in reverse.- ' •
4. With the needle out of the cloth, turn again to
the (2-4) position and complete the button
hole by barracking on the top edge
of
buttonhole.
To lock the stitches, make sure the needle is
out of the fabric and set width at 0 and feed
dog height down. Then take a few stitches.
6. To prevent cutting through the bartack insert
a straight pin through the bartack. Cut
buttonhole open.
32
[Pattern: M or Manual*- Models 415 and 4263^
Length: Buttonhole ' '
Width: 2—0 ‘
Feed Dog: Down-High-Down-High-Down
Pressure: Full,,
Foot: Buttonhole Foot
Stretch Control: M
TURN-ROUND BUTTONHOLE '
1. Place material under presser foot to sew the
top or low end of marked buttonhole. Turn
feed dog height control to DOWN, hold
creative embroidery control at its right end
position, take few stitches to bartack the end
of marked buttonhole.
2. Turn feed dog height to HIGH, release
creative embroidery lever, set stitch width
control at 2, then, sew down the left edge of
marked buttonhole and finish stitching with
needle in fabric at the right side of stitches.
Set. feed dog at DOWN.
3. Lift presser foot and pivot the fabric around,
then lower presser foot and take one stitch to
left turning hand wheel by hand.
4. Pushing creative embroidery control to right,
take few stitches to bartack another end of
marked buttonhole.
5. Up feed dog to HIGH and sew down another
edge of marked buttonhole.
6. Lock thread by stitching a few stitches at 0
width and DOWN feed dog height. Cut center
" ,,open space of buttonhole carefully not to cut
into the stitches, as illustrated previously.
rK-y-
i
CORDED BUTTONHOLE
Cording gives a reinforced raised buttonhole. It is
excellent for use on bulky, woven fabric, or knits
in which the stitching often gets buried and
makes cutting difficult. On knits, a corded
buttonhole will help keep the fabric from
stretching out of shape.
Choose a heavy cotton crochet thread or
buttonhole twist to use for the cording. Proceed
as for the turn-around buttonhole having cord
the under the presser foot in such a way that
[Pattern: M or Manual-models 415 and 426]
Length: Buttonhole
Width: 2-0
Feed Dog: Down-High-Down-High-Down
Pressure: Full
Foot: Buttonhole Foot
Stretch Control: M
the zigzag stitch covers the cord.
At the completion of the buttonhole snip the
excess cord close to the bartack on woven
fabrics. For knitted garments, always pull the
cords to the wrong side by using a darning needle
or needle threader, and knot the cord ends
before clipping.
3:
BLIND НЕМ STITCH [MODELS 415
& 426)
The blind hem stitch provides a durable hem
finish that is almost invisible on garments
drapes and curtains. It is done eas.ly w, h
Straight or slightly curved hems. With a little
nractice it will be a very quick and easy hern
practice It w^^^
application
repairing. .
n raw edge of hem in desired manner,
‘"’Lcr L overcast, 1/4 inch stitched under
pinked, hem tape, or just plaim (Step )
(2) Fold hem up desired length. Baste ot Pm 1/2
' inch from upper edge. Press m P'f f«/ 2'
(3) Fold hem back toward "Pht side of abr,c
' leaving about 1/4 inch ,e,
(4) Guide the fold of the fabric into the center
cut of the presser foot so that the zigzag bite
of the stitch comes just sl'9Ty to *e Jeft f
the center cut of the presser foot. ™ ale
<;tiches should be formed on the singe
thickness of fabric, and the zigzag||t^hou
catch just barely into the fold ofThe fabric at
'^it’l^rhra^ndrn"rrigrsTd:.'pm'^
WherhOTmlng^an A-line skirt,
basting stitch along the raw edge of the hem. At
an ironing board, fold up hem, matching the
seams Ease in the excess fabric by PU» ng on
basting thread. Press with steam, then apply hem
?ape. Baste or pin hem 1/2” from taped edge,
then continue into step 3.
Pattern; Blind Stitch or^
Length; 2
Width; 0
Feed Dog; High
Pressure; Full
Foot; All Purpose
Stretch Control; M
Ш
i»'
1
1|
!C:
34
STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH:
^ L *.■■■ ■■
> ^ ■:;
> ■■
■ ■ L *^.- .
mi
■ *-/.<:.s, . ■!
This stitch may be used on knits and wovens in
areas of stress as a reinforcement stitch. It is
excellent for curved seams such as armholes and
crotch seams. For active wear such as ski pants and
girdle fabrics which endure a lot of stress in
bending and stretching, this stitch may be used for
seaming throughout the garment.
[Pattern; Manual or M
—models 415 & 416]
Length; 5
Width; 0
Feed Dog; High
Pressure; Full
Foot; All Purpose
Stretch Control; S
CAUTION - It is difficult to remove this stitch
from fabric. Pre-fit garment before using this stitch.
• TOPSTITCHINQ
Because this stitch is heavier
than an ordinary straight
stitch, it is ideal for topsthching, particularly on
knits.
ULTRA-STRETCH STITCH;
The Ultra-Stretch Stitches are excellent for stretch fabrics such as lingerie, sweater
knits, bathing suit knits, and cotton knits. It has the greatest strength and elasticity
of all.
i£#.'
• RICK-RACK STRETCH
This is most common utility ultrastretch of a triple
back-and-forth zigzag stitches with more elasticity
than regular zigzag.
• PINE-LEAF STRETCH [MODELS 415 & 426]
This is the combined stitch of straight stretch and
single sideward stitches, useful for hemming on
most knits and stretchy fabrics.
• SPECIAL ULTRA-STRETCHES [MODEL 426]
These are very useful ultra-stretch stitches called smocking,
shown on pattern window, for various purpose.
Pattern; Manual or M
-models 415 & 426]
Length; 5
Width; 2-4
Feed Dog; High
Pressure; Full
Foot; All purpose
Stretch Control; S
Pattern; Blind
stitch or<!
Length; 5
Width;0
Feed Dog; High
Pressure; Full—Half
Foot; All purpose
Stretch Control; S
digger. Feather, etc, as
Pattern; Other than
above
Length; 5
Width; 0
Feed Dog; High
Pressure; Full
Foot; All Purpose
Stretch Control; S
ECT'C^,'
OILING MACHINE
Use only a good sewing machine
oil, do not use any common
household oils. : ' _
Your machine should be oiled
occasionally to keep it operating
smoothly. How often depends on
the amount of sewing you do.
Once a year oil ;yo,ur machine
thoroughly as indicated by the
arrows on illustrations.
Avoid over oiling.
I- ■■ ■■
I 38
MACH1N
•illf
mi
~
i»';
CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE
The stitch forming mechanism occasional
ly becomes clogged with loose threads
and lint. This will interfere with the
efficient operation of the machine.
Cleaning and removal of the lint will
safeguard the performance.
To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed
as follows:
1. Turn hand wheel until the needle
reaches its highest position. Tilt head
" back on its hinges.
2. Remove bobbin case (A).
3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps
(f) outward and remove the shuttle
race cover (C) and the shuttle body
(E) and the lint cleaner (D).
4. Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle, and
shuttle race cover by removing all
threads, lint, etc.
When the cleaning has been'completed, proceed as follows to replace the shut
tle assembly:
1. Turn hand wheel until the needle reaches its highest position.
2. Place lint cleaner (D) to shuttle driver and shuttle body (E) in race (F)
against shuttle driver and adjust into position.
3. Replace shuttle race cover (C), fitting pin at lower edge into notch, and lock
into position with shuttle race cover clamps, (f), making certain the clamps have
been snapped securely into position.
4. Put bobbin (B) into bobbin case (A).
5. Put the bobbin case into the shuttle, fitting tongue (a) into notch (c) of race
cover (C).
ADJUSTING BOBBIN WINDER
It may be sometime required to adjust
the level of rear top thread guide to
conform with the level of bobbin winder,
especially, when thread winds unevenly
on bobbin.
If the thread winds unevenly on bobbin
as shown (A), loosen set screw of rear top
thread guide and move the thread guide
up slightly. If the thread winds as shown
(B), move the thread guide down slightly.
ADJUSTING AND CHANGING MOTOR BELT
te' V.: ■■
Following are the instructions for adjust
ing and changing the motor belt:
(1) Remove four screws holding rear
cover by tipping it out at the bottom
and pivoting around the hand wheel
away from the'front of the machine.
(2) To adjust motor belt, loosen screws
(A) and move bracket B up to loosen
belt and down to tighten.
(3) To remove motor belt:
• Remove top cover.
• Loosen clutch (C).
• Loosen screws (A) and move
bracket (B) to its highest posi
tion.
• Slip belt off motor pulley and
then over hand wheel.
• Replace motor belt by slipping it
over hand wheel and then over
motor pulley.
• Adjust as noted under No. 2.
--sf' ■'••V -»i-
40
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№.
PROBLEM AND REMEDIES
i
41
P-'Si
,n addition to the baaic set of a—rU«";,?;
:iai,^bTe"at‘:od::;"cosffo."voutd^
ifTecS ?he genu“ne°part desTgn^ for best performance wifo your machine. If a
"ewfng machine dealer is not available, mail your .nqmry direct to.
WHITE SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, 11750 BereaRoad, Cleveland,
Ohio 44111
or
WHITE CONSOLIDATED INDUSTRIES, LTD., 1470 Birchmount Rd,
Scarborough, Ontario, Canada.
ruffler
PART #1403
ATTACHMENT FOOT
DARNING SPRING
PART #4990
BINDER
NARROW HEMMER
PART #76316
EDGE-STITCHER
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PART #82528
HEMMERS:
7/8"HEM
PART #76553
PART #74159
5/8"HEM
PART #76552
3/8"HEM
PART #76551
1/4"HEM
PART #76550
ATTACHMENT FOOT
In order to attach binder, edgestitcher and the
hemmers, it is necessary to remove the presser
foot and replace it with the attachment foot.
Mount binder, edgestitcher or hemmers by
sliding the attachment to the left as far as
possible and tightening the screw.
The mounting slot enables you to sew as close to
or as far away from the edge as desired. Just
move the attachment to the correct position
before tightening the mounting screw.
EDGESTITCHER
The edgestitcher is used in making dainty lace
insertions, edgings and piping.
The slots in the edgestitcher serve as guides in
sewing together various pieces of material. If you
want to sew lace, lace and embroidery, or lace
and tucked strips together, place the piece of
material that will be on top in slot 1 and the
lower fabric in slot 4. For instance, if you are
sewing lace edging to a finished edge of fabric,
place the fabric in slot 1 and the lace in slot 4.
Be fSUrje'to draw the lace and material under the
needle and back of the edgestitcher so that the
feed will carry it backward as you stitch. Hold
the fabric in the left hand and the lace in the
right, being sure the fabric overlaps the lace
slightly.
Rick-rack-stretch can be sewn to the edge of the
material in the same manner.
To trim with wide piping place the fabric in slot
4, and the fold of the piping to the left in solt 3,
for a narrow piping place fabric in slot 2 and the
folded edge of the piping to the right in slot 3.
Slot 5 may be used as a guide in stitching a
French seam.
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BINDER
This attachment folds bias binding
and applies it to the edge of
material in one operation. Slots on
scroll of the binder are for corres
ponding widths of commercially
folded bias binding. '
The open mouth of binder scroll is
used for unfolded bias strips cut
15-16 inch wide.
FOLDED binding;
Cut folded binding to a point,
insert in appropriate slot. Draw
through slot and under binder with
strong pin. Test stitching to be sure
it is on the edge. Adjust by sliding
binder to right or left.
TWO-TONE BINDING
Two bindings can be sewn on fabric
edge also in one operation. When
two are used always skip one size
between widths, inserting each in
correct size slot.
HAND-CUT BIAS BINDING
Cut 15-16 inch bias binding fold in
half for a couple of inches. Cut
binding diagonally toward end,
almost to fold. Slip fold into center
of binder. Draw back until cut
opens and binding encircles open
end of scroll. Test stitching to be
sure it is on the edge, adjust if
necessary.
See suggestions on how to use the
binder. There are hundreds of other
uses.
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THE SET OF HEMMERS
Before attaching any of the hemmers, be sure bobbin thread is pulled up.
Then, with hemmer in place, hold top thread loosely and turn
handwheel one full turn toward you, making a loop under
hemmer. Grasp bobbin thread with both hands and slip horizontally under hemmer
toward back. Bobbin thread, will catch loop and carry upper thread to back of
hemmer.
Fold material to suit for two inches along edge, hold at each end of fold. Slip fold
into guide and up over spoon. Fold hem in material back of hemmer. Draw forward
to end of hem and fasten with point of needle. Pull on threads gently as you start
stitching. 1
If
i
' !if0.
You can make a hem 1/4", 3/8", 5/8" or 7/8" in width, depending upon which
hemmer you use. A few uses are shown below.
RÜFFLER
The ruffler will produce yards of delicate ruffling or precision pleating.
Ruffling can also be done and sewn to another piece of fabric at the same time.
This highly versatile attachment despite its wide range of use, is simple to use.
Use the ruffler for making aprons, curtains, pleating a skirt, adding fullness to the
bodice of a dress etc. .
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to the
NARROW HEMMER
With needle at its highest position replace re
gular presser foot with narrow hemmer and ti
ghten it securely in place. Set stitch pattern se
lector of model 426 or blind stitch selector of
model 415 at mannual or M position. Zigzag
stitch width control at 0 for straight stitched
hem or at number 3 for zigzag stitched hem. Set
stitch length control to suit.
For a plain narrow hem make a 1/8 inch double
fold for about two inches along edge of fabric.
Hold each end of the two inch fold, slip
underneath hemmer. Bring fold up into the scroll
of hemmer, draw fabric forward to end and
fasten with point of needle. Lower presser bar
lifter. Gently pull end of thread as you start
stitching.
Guide material slightly to left and it will take a
double turn through scroll. - • . i
The narrow hem provides an excellent finish for
edges of ruffles or any other dainty work.
LACE TRIMMED HEM
To sew a narrow hem and attach
lace in one stitching, insert lace in
the slot next to needle.Sew hem as
shown, guiding lace under needle
and hem into scroll. Rickrack
/
stretch may be used in the same
way.
LACE EDGE WITH INVISI
BLE STITCHING
Hold lace 1/8 inch from raw edge
on right hand side of fabric. Insert
both in scroll, as for plain narrow
hem, let hem roll over and sew in
lace. When the stitching is complet
ed the hem is pressed on the wrong
side.
FRENCH SEAM
Place material with right sides
facing each other and the top piece
of material 1/8 inch from right
hand edge of lower piece. Insert in
hemmer scroll allowing hem to roll
over and sew in top fabric making
French seam. For cording effect,
use zigzag stitch wide enough to
catch both edges of the narrow
rolled hem and sew with satin
stitch. This can be used for covering
chairs and so forth.
HEMMING ACROSS A SEAM
To hem across a seam, cut the seam
folds at an angle so they will lead
into the hemmer gradually. Press
seam open. Stitch across the seam
at the extreme edge to hold it
together and for added firmness. It
may be necessary to pull the
material slightly when hemming
over the seam.
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