SINGER W1599 User Manual

Blue

Jeans _

Machine

H ITE

W

■ ■ ■ ■ ■■■■

SEWINQ MACHINE

CONTENTS

1. NAMES OF PARTS.....................................................................................................................................................2

2. ACCESSORIES...........................................................................................................................................................3

3. BEFORE SEWING.......................................................................................................................................................4

Detaching Extension Table...............................................................................................................................4

Connecting Foot Controller and Power Cord.................................................................................................5

Changing Needle................................................................................................................................................6

Changing Foot....................................................................................................................................................^

Bobbin Winding..................................................................................................................................................8

Inserting Bobbin..............................................................................................................................................11

Adjusting Lower Tension................................................................................................................................12

Drop Feed Lever...............................................................................................................................................12

Threading Upper Thread.................................................................................................................................13

Twin Needle Threading....................................................................................................................................14

Decorative Tucks or Designs......................................................................................................................... 14

Drawing Up Lower Thread..............................................................................................................................15

Foot Pressure...................................................................................................................................................15

Fabric, Thread and Needle Table...................................................................................................................16

Pattern Setting..................................................................................................................................................17

4. STRAIGHT SEWING.................................................................................................................................................18

Pattern Selection Dial......................................................................................................................................18

Stitch Length Dial.............................................................................................................................................18

Starting to Sew.................................................................................................................................................19

Double Presser Foot Lifter..............................................................................................................................19

Cloth Guide.......................................................................................................................................................20

Adjusting Thread Tension...............................................................................................................................20

Applications of Straight Stitch.......................................................................................................................21

5. ZIGZAG SEWING...................................................................................................................................................... 22

Zigzag Width Control.......................................................................................................................................22

Thread Tension for Zigzag Stitch...................................................................................................................22

6. MAKING BUTTONHOLES........................................................................................................................................23

Determine Length............................................................................................................................................ 23

Determine Width...............................................................................................................................................23

Buttonhole Density Adjustment.....................................................................................................................25

Cutting Buttonholes.........................................................................................................................................26

7. SEWING ON BUTTONS...........................................................................................................................................27

8. OVERCASTING.........................................................................................................................................................28

9. OVERLOCKING........................................................................................................................................................29

Application of Rick-Rack................................................................................................................................31

Application of Decorative Fun Patterns........................................................................................................32

10. STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH................................................................................................................................30

Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance...................................................................................................................30

11. BLIND HEM STITCH.................................................................................................................................................33

Elastic Blind Hem Stitch.................................................................................................................................34

12. STRETCH SEAM.......................................................................................................................................................35

13. ZIPPER SEWING.......................................................................................................................................................36

14. SHELL STITCHING...................................................................................................................................................37

15. PIN TUCKING............................................................................................................................................................38

16. QUILTING

17. MENDING..................................................................................................................................................................40

18. DARNING..................................................................................................................................................................41

19. APPLIQUE WORK.................................................................................................................................................... 42

20. MAINTENANCE.........................................................................................................................................................44

21. TROUBLE CHART................................................................................................................................................... 46

................

Patching............................................................................................................................................................ 40

Mending a Rip...................................................................................................................................................40

Cleaning.............................................................................................................................................................44

Oiling..................................................................................................................................................................45

Changing Light Bulb........................................................................................................................................47

..................................................................................................................................................39

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I. NAMES OF PARTS

1. Thread guide for bobbin winding

2. Foot pressure regulator

3. Upper thread tension dial

4. Face cover

5. Thread guide for upper threading

6. Presser foot thumb screw

7. Presser foot

8. Shuttle cover

9. Top cover

10. Bobbin winding spindle
II. Screw hole for extra spool pin

12. Zigzag width control

13. Special buttonhole adjustment

14. Stitch length dial

15. Reverse sewing lever

16. Pattern selection dial

17. Free arm

18. Drop feed lever

19. Handwheel

20. Stop motion knob

21. Socket

22. Handle

23. Presser foot lifter

24. Feed dog

25. Needle plate

26. Switch ♦
^ Specifications vary from country to country.

2. ACCESSORIES

3. BEFORE SEWING

Machine Is stored in flat-bed style
which makes your work easier for

ordinary sewing.

Detaching Extension Table

Slide off, and the machine is used
as a free-arm model.

To open top cover of accessory box,
push open, as illustrated.

Do vice-versa of above steps to at

tach extension table.

Free-arm is convenient to sew or
embroider; trousers, sleeves, cuffs,

T-shirts, blouses, etc.

Connecting Foot Controller and Power Cord

Connect foot controller and power
cord © ® .

Before plugging in your machine, be
sure that voltage is same as that of
your machine (* written on a plate
at back of machine)

* Specifications vary from country

to country.

a Put power switch on the machine

and turn on the sewing light.

b Push button to turn sewing light

on and off.
Always switch off or unplug machine

when not in use.

* Specifications vary from country

to country.

The more you press foot controller,
the faster the machine runs.

CAUTION: When machine is not
in use always detach plug from
wall outlet.

Changing Needle

Set needle in the highest position
by turning handwheel towards you.

Loosen needle clamp screw and

take out needle.

With flat face away from you, insert
a new needle into groove of needle
bar.

Push needle until it reaches stopper
@ and tighten needle clamp screw
firmly.

Always use a straight needle with a
sharp point.

Using defective or worn needles not
only causes stitch skipping, break
age of needles or snapping of
thread: it also can damage hook
and needle plate.

Changing Foot

Raise presser foot lifter.
Set needle in the highest position by

turning handwheel towards you.

(1) Push button of holder towards
you and foot will come off.

(2) Position a new foot by aligning
holding groove of shank with pin of

foot.

(3) Lower presser foot lifter so that
holder catches presser foot.

Bobbin Winding

Set needle in the highest position by

turning handwheel towards you .
Open shuttle cover.

Open latch of bobbin case and
remove case.

Release latch of bobbin case and
bobbin comes out easily.

Push back to fold handle.

Open top cover.

Put a spool on spool pin.
Draw thread from spool pin through
thread guide and pretension device,
following numbers ®,(D and®.

Caution:
Spool should be put on spool pin
in the manner of its thread being
drawn from under side of spool.

Wind thread clockwise around bob
bin several times.

Push bobbin onto spindle.
Holding handwheel with your left

hand disengage handwheel by

unscrewing stop motion knob.

Push bobbin to right and press
down foot controller.

Machine stops automatically when
bobbin is full.

Push bobbin to left, to disengage

from wheel.

Take off bobbin from spindle and cut

thread.
Retighten stop motion knob.

If bobbin is wound unevenly as
shown, open top cover and use
screw driver to adjust the guide for

trouble

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bobbin winding.

4

correction

mm

■10-

Inserting Bobbin

Place bobbin in case with thread
running in direction of arrow.

Guide thread into slot @ of bobbin
case.

Puiling thread to left, bring it under
tension spring then to delivery
groove

Adjusting Lower Tension

To test bobbin tension, hang and

shake bobbin case as shown.

At proper tension bobbin case will

gradually drop a small amount.

To adjust tension, turn adjusting

screw with small screwdriver.

Raise needle to highest position.

Leave end of thread of about 10 cm
(4") from bobbin case.
Take hold of latch and push bobbin
case into hook.

Release latch when bobbin case is
fully inserted.

Drop Feed Lever

The lever is in the right side of

shuttle cover. For normal sewing,

move the lever to AAA position.

To lower feed dog, move the lever

to AAA position.

This position is used for button

sewing, darning and embroidery.

Threading Upper Thread

Raise presser foot.
Set take-up lever to the highest po
sition by turning handwheel towards

you.

Open top cover and put spool into
spool pin.

Caution:
Spool should be put on spool pin
In the manner of Its thread being

drawn from under side of spool.

Thread, following numbers ®-(D.
Pass thread through guide ©then

to ®.

Lead thread thru either side of ten

sion disc (D.

Hook it to lower guide ® from right
to left upwards.

Thread take-up lever (§).
Pass thread to guide ® from right

to left, and needle guide © (use left

one) then to needle eye c®.

Allow about 15cm (6") of thread

extra.

Twin Needle Threading

Extra spool pin is packed in
accessory tray.

Screw thread extra spool pin in
screw hole, place a felt and put
another spool.

Thread in ttie same way as normal
threading, except at points ©
and ®.

At point pass threads separately
to right and left of tension disc.

At guide ®, pass one of threads to
right guide and the other at left
guide.

At point ®, thread from right guide
should be lead to right needle eye,
and from left guide to left needle
eye.

Allow about 15cm (6 ") of thread
extra.

Decorative Tucks or Designs

Any stitch can be used with the twin
needle for decorative effects. Most
attractive are the multiple stitch zig
zag and blind hem stitch for fancy
tucks. The satin stitch or tapered
zigzag designs in two colors are ef
fective for creative trims.

CAUTION: Remember to use no
more than 2.5 zigzag width.

Drawing Up Lower Thread

Hold the end of upper thread with
left hand.

Turn handwheel slowly towards you

until needle moves down and up

again.

Pull upper thread slowly and lower

thread will be brought up in a loop.

Pull out both threads about 15cm
(6") and place them together under
presser foot to left.

HGTE: Always place thread to the
back or left when starting to sew
a seam.
Failure to do this may cause

thread Jamming.

Foot Pressure

To increase the pressure, turn the

regulator clockwise; and to reduce
the pressure, turn the regulator
counter-clockwise.

Insufficient pressure may cause

poor feeding of the fabric, skipped

stitches, or difficulty in guiding the

fabric. If feed dogs or presser foot

marks appear on the fabric,

reduce the pressure.

When sewing multiple thickness

or heavy fabric, reduce the

pressure. Increase pressure when

sewing lighter weight fabrics.

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Fabric, Thread and Needle Table

FABRIC

VERY SHEER: LACE.
Voile, Chiffon, Net

SHEER; Blouse Crepe,
Lawn, Organdy, Taffera

LIGHT-WEIGHT; Crepe,
Wool, Brocade, Velvet

MEDIUM; Wool, Silk,
Linen, Velvetten, Pique,
Faille, Terrycloth

HEAVY; Denim, Duck,
Sailcloth

EXTRA HEAVY;
Upholstery, Canvas,

Awning

[KNITS]

LIGHT-WEIGHT; Tricot
Power net

MEDIUM-WEIGHT;
Jersey, Double Knit,
Power Net

THREAD

European

Cotton Cotton

50-70 60

50-70 60

Mercerizec

70

30 50 Silk

30 50 Silk

30

30 Heavy

30 50 Nylon

60

Heavy

Duty

Duty

Cotton

Covered

Polyester,

Silk, Nylon

Silk

Nylon

Silk

Nylon

C.C. Poly.

C.C. Poly.

Silk

Nylon

Silk

C.C. R)ly.

NEEDLE

European

705

65-70

65-70 9

75-80 11

80-90 11-14

U.S. Size

too

120

70

70-80

Point

15x1

9 Regular

16

19 Regular

9

9-10 Medium

Style

Regular

Regular

Regular

Regular

Light

Ball

Light to

Ball

REMARKS

Loosen up
per tension

points

HEAVY-WEIGHT; Double
knit. Power Net

FAKE-FURS, VELOURS 30

[LEATHER]
VINYLS FILMS
LIGHTTD-MEDIUM-

WEIGHT

HEAVY LEATHER

[DECORATIVE TOUCHES]
TOP STITCHING

MACHINE EMBROIDERY

30 50

Heavy

Duty

30

30

30

Heavy

Duty

Silk twist

Size 50-70

Silk

Nylon

C.C. Poly.

C.C. Poly.

50

C.C. Poly. 90 14

50

C.C. Poly.

C.C. Poly. 100-110

-16-

80-90

90-100

90-100

100-110

65-80

11-14

14-16

14-16 Wedge

16-18 Wedge

16-18

9-11 Regular

Medium

to Heavy

Ball

Ball or

Sharp

Wedge

Regular

Pattern Setting

PATTERN

NAME

10

1-4

PATTERN SELECTOR

[IBI]

mm

AAAA

/^A\AAA^A^

\ A A /

\ / \ / \ /

V V V

TWIN

NEEDLE

A^W/WV

/VNAAAAAA/

aAaaAa/\Aa

/nAa/sAaa/V\.

V. ^ A j*

/m//A\WA\\
yiA\V/A\V/A\\

BUTTONHOLE

STRAIGHT

ZIGZAG

BLIND HEM

STRETCH
BLIND HEM

MULTIPLE

ZIG ZAG

STRAIGHT
STRETCH

RICK RACK

12

vw

13

14

AAA

<<<<<<

ZX7\y\

-17-

OVERLOOK

OVERLOOK

BRIAR

4. STRAIGHT SEWING

Set machine as shown.

If you need to move needle position

to left side, set zigzag width control

5.

Pattern Selection Dial

Turn dial to choose pattern.
Dial can be turned either to right or
to left.

* Always make sure needle is in

the highest position when oper
ating dial.

Stitch Length Dial

Set dial at indicating point (a; ac

cording to stitch size required.
For a longer stitch, turn dial to right.

For a shorter stitch, turn it to left.
For normal sewing it is set between

2 and 3.

Place fabric under foot about 1cm
(0.4") inside the edge.
Lower presser foot lifter.

Double Presser Foot Lifter

In order to obtain wider gap when
using very thick materials, firmly
push presser foot lifter up as far as
it will go.

To reinforce seam, sew backwards
to the edge of fabric by pushing
down reverse sewing lever.

Hold lever down for longer reverse

sewing.

Release lever and commence for
ward sewing, guiding fabric by hand
as it is fed.
Never pull material.

-19-

Cloth Guide

Use cloth guide when sewing a long
seam of regular distance from edge
of material.
Set guide in hole on arm, at right of
needle plate, and adjust distance.
Run machine with edge of fabric

touching guide.

Position cloth guide at an angle to

sew a curved seam.

Sew reverse stitches for reinforce
ment at end of seam.
Draw fabric to left wheri sewing is

finished.

Cut threads with thread cutter
behind presser bar.

Adjusting Thread Tension

Test stitch performance on a scrap

of material you are going to use.
With correct tension ( ® ), upper
and lower threads tension is equal
and strong enough to lock both
threads in center,
if upper tension is too tight (loose),
upper (lower) thread lies straight
along upper (lower) surface of fabric

((g) © ). Correct by turning ten

sion dial.

Applications of Straight Stitch

A. Seams

The normal stitch length for most
fabrics is 3, but the length chosen
should depend on the fabric and
area of usage.
Usually, heavier fabrics require
longer stitches, and lighter weight
fabrics require shorter stitches.
Rjr curved seams and bias cut

areas use a shorter stitch length to
add strength and elasticity to the
seam.

B. Basting/Topstitching

Sewing a seam with a longer stitch
is useful for temporary seams prior
to fitting.

Basting stitches also may be used

when gathering in fullness.
Topstitching can be done very effec

tively with the long straight stitch.

For a bolder stitch, two threads of
the same type can be threaded
through one needle (size 14 or 16).
A heavier thread such as buttonhole
twist may be used for topstitching,
but be sure to use a larger needle
(size 16 or 18).

The triple stretch straight stitch may
be uses, but caution must be used
as this stitch is difficult to remove.

5. ZIGZAG SEWING

Set machine as shown.

To prevent seam ends unravelling,

set machine for straight stitch and
sew in reverse at beginning and
ending of seam.

Zigzag Width Control

Set control at required number.
Larger the number, wider the stitch.

Set it at 0 for straight sewing.

Make sure needle is in upper posi
tion when you set control, and
extra thread is placed to the left or

rear.

Thread Tension for Zigzag

Stitch

Better-looking zigzag stitching
requires less upper tension than
straight stitching.
Loosen upper tension slightly.

6. MAKING BUTTONHOLES

Set machine as shown.

Determine Length

Measure diameter and thickness of
button and add 0.3cm (1/8") for bar

tacks.

Mark buttonhole size on material.

Determine Width

Determine width according to di
ameter of button, its thickness, and
kind of material.

Attach buttonhole foot.

Completely push back sliding part

a of buttonhole foot.
Place material under foot so that
marking of buttonhole passes
through center of foot. Arrow (b)

of foot indicates beginning line of
marking.

Extra thread is placed under foot
and then to left or back.

Bar tacking: Set pattern selection
dial to 1 (, a) and sew 5-6 stitches.

Left side:Change pattern to 2 (aiJ).

Sew left side from front to back un

til it reaches end line.

Remember the point of arrow so

that it is not necessary to mark end
lines for all buttonholes.

Bar tacking: Change pattern to 3
( ) and sew 5-6 stitches.

Right side: Change pattern to 4
(Ci'*) 3nd sew right side until it

reaches first bar tack.

Quick flnish:To prevent unstitching,
set zigzag width at 0 and proceed
for a few stitches.

Buttonhole Density Adjustment

Adjustment is located to right of
stitch length dial.

With some materials it is possible
that the sides or density of a button

hole will vary, it is possible to adjust

or balance these sides by turning
the special buttonhole adjustment to
“ + ” or to attain a correct

balance.

It is advised to always turn this ad

justment to center as this may vary
some of the other stitches slightly.

If the stitches on the right side of the
buttonhole are too open, turn the

dial counter-clockwise.

Turning dial counter-clockwise

closes right side and opens left

side.

If the stitches on the right side of the
buttonhole are too close together,

turn the dial clockwise (-i-).

Turning dial clockwise opens
right side and closes left side.

This dial can simultaneously

adjust stretch stitch balance.

Therefore please refer to page 30
when you move this dial.

Cutting Buttonholes

stick a needle or pin through bar
tacks to prevent over-cutting.

Cut buttonhole along center with

buttonhole cutter.

-26-

7. SEWING ON BUTTONS

Set machine as shown.

Position a button and material un

der foot. When needle comes to left
side of stitch, lower foot. Raise

needle and adjust zigzag width so
that needle comes to right hole of

button.

Make one stitch be certain that nee

dle is aligned with botton’s holes.

Run machine at medium speed and
sew 5-6 zigzag stitches.

Stop machine when needle is in
upper position.

(a, Set zigzag width control to 0,

align needle with button’s hole and

sew 3-4 stitches to prevent stitches
from unlocking.

OR

b. Remove work and cut off

threads.

Draw thread ends through to wrong
side and tie a knot.

8. OVERCASTING

For light weight material:

Set machine as shown.

Overcasting prevents edge of fabric
from fraying and produces neat
finish.

9. OVERLOOKING

Overlocking stitches make it possi
ble to sew and overcast seams at

the same time.

Set machine as shown.

Put two pieces of cloth together with
right sides facing and sew.

To prevent edges from fraying, sew

so that right side stitches drop out
side the edge of material.
Then press flat.

In some cases overlocking stitches

can be used for overcasting.

-29-

10. STRETCH STITCHING

10 11 12 13 14

The stitches shown are all used with
stretch and knit fabrics. These are
special utility stitches built in the
machine for your quick selection.

10 Straight stretch
11 Rickrack briar stretch
12 Overlock stretch
13 Double overlook stretch
14 Briar stitch

J

Adjusting Stretch Stitch

Balance

In stretch stitch sewing, the stretch
stitch adjuster should usually be in
a neutral position (between “+” and

.

When sewing some fabrics, you

may need to adjust this control to
balance the stitches for appearance

sake.

If design seems open like the illus
trations to the left, adjust the con
trol slightly toward until design

looks like the center design.

If the design appears to be closed

as in the right hand illustrations, turn

the control toward “-i-” until stitch

ing is as you desire.

This dial can simultaneously

adjust left and right side balance

of buttonhole. Therefore please
refer to page 25 when you move

this dial.

Always return to center position

after making adjustments for
stretch stitches.

Application of Rick-Rack

|//Awk\|

A. Topstitching/RIck-Rack

A decorative topstitch can be

produced with the rick-rack stitch.
Stitch around the structural lines of
the garment for a special effect.
Topstitch braid or a decorative inset
to add an additional creative flair.

B. Tapering/Rick-Rack

The rick-rack stitch may be tapered

to .form creative stems and petals of
flowers, embroidered pictures and
wall hangings.
As in tapering the zigzag, slowly
turn the stitch width dial from 0 to

5 and back to 0. A group of these
tapered rick-rack stitch will form a

bouquet-like effect.

J

C. Procedure:

• The elastic rick-rack stitch is a
zigzag line of stitching that is
desired so that seams may be

pressed open.

• Apply this stitch to areas of stress
on both wovens and knits.

• Use narrow width of zigzag as a
heavy duty triple stitch for seams.

• Use medium and wide widths of
zigzag for overcasting edges of

seams, facings and hems of heav
ier weight fabrics such as terry
cloth, and for attaching elastic.

• Use also for decorative stitching.

• Guide your fabric from the front.
Do not pull or push as it will cause
poor stitching.

Elastic Triple Zigzag Stitch

Regular Zigzag Stitch

-3V

Application of Decorative Fun Patterns

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A. Fun stitches-Briar
The reverse stitch patterns produce
briar designs for use on household
linens and children clothes.
These reverse stitch pattern can be

used to sew in hems.

The reverse stitch patterns can also

be used for topstitching bindings
and ribbons for decorative effect.
This is done in the same manner
that lace is applied with the zigzag
stitch. The straight stitched edge of
the reverse stitch patterns on the
left should be sewn on the left edge
of the binding or ribbon. This
decorative effect can be used on
towels and placemats for a pleasant

appearance. The reverse stitch pat

terns can also be corded for

stronger decorative edges on place­mats and tablecloths. Simply place
four strands of pearl cotton,
embroidery floss or yarn under the
presser foot. A transparent foot will

help guide the cord evenly while
sewing the reverse stitch patterns.
The reverse stitch patterns can be

sewn with two threads through one

needle for a more effective decora

tive stitch. Simply thread two

sewing threads through the upper

threading system. A larger needle

should be used to accommodate

the two threads. Use this decorative

technique for enhancing

tablecloths, placemats, napkins,
and curtains.

>>V>

-32-

NOTE: Narrow patterns may be
made by setting zigzag width to

4-3-2.

11. BLIND HEM STITCH

Set machine as shown.

Fold material as shown and place
under foot.

For a neater finish, it is preferable
to baste or iron the hem beforehand.

Sew carefully, so that straight
stitches are made on hem edge,
and slanting stitches pierce only
one or two threads of fold.

3~5mm(0.2"

33-

right side wrong side

a Correct seam.

B Needle is catching edge of fold

too much.

c Needle is not catching edge of

fold at all.

Elastic Blind Hem Stitch

For elastic materials, set machine
as shown and sew in the same way
as for normal blind hem stitch.

-34-

12. STRETCH SEAM

A ball-point needle is essential. '

Paper may be laid under knits for
smoother feeding.

a Medium-weight fabrics

Double knit, jersey.
Apply elastic triple straight stitch.

b Light-weight fabrics

Apply small zigzag. Reduce upper
and lower thread tension.

c For Very elastic fabrics

Spandex (power net)
Use lapped or abutted seam.

Apply multiple zigzag.

13. ZIPPER SEWING

Set machine as shown.
Used for dresses, blouses skirts,

trousers, bags, etc.
By using the special zipper foot, zip

per sewing can be easily done.

0.3cm (V.")

Bsnu.

Pll

wrong

side

(1) With right sides together, tack
along seam line of the opening f;.
(2) Open the tacked seam and pull
out the lower material 0.3cm(V8").

Place the folded edge over the right

side of the zipper and tack over it.

(3) Replace the presser foot with the
zipper foot on the left of the needle.
The zipper foot can be shifted either
to the right or the left of the zipper,
so the zipper can be sewn without
difficulty. Stitch from the bottom to
the top. Remove the tacking.

(4) Turn the material to the right
side. Ease the material and the zip

per. Tack a measured 1.3cm (Vz ")

from the tacked seam as a stiching

guide. Shift the zipper foot to the

right of the needle. Doublestitch

across the lower end, then up along

the zipper. Remove the tacking.

14. SHELL STITCHING

Silk, nylon organdy or similar sheer

fabrics are suitable.

Set machine as shown.

Fold edge of material. With folded
edge to left, place it under presser

foot.
Pull thread ends towards back when

starting sewing.
Adjust tension to 8 or 9 to form the

shell effects.
Always return the tension setting to

normal when finishing the shell
effect.

Make sure needle misses raw edge
of fold when it moves side ways.

15. PIN TUCKING

Set machine as shown.

For better appearance, use sheer
material and tighten lower thread a
little.

For twin needle threading see p.l4.

Insert the quilting guide under the
spring plate on the holder.

Mark first line with pencil or tailor’s
chalk, and sew.
From second line, just sew, follow
ing seam of first line using guide.

Interval between seams can be

adjusted by moving guide in
direction of arrow.

16. QUILTING

Set machine as shown.

Baste layers of material to prevent
them from slipping out as you sew.

Attach quilting guide and sew in the

same way as pin tucking.

-39-

17. MENDING Patching

Set machine as shown.

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A

Place the patch over the worn part.
Pull thread ends toward back or left
when starting sewing.
Sew along the edge of the patch on
the right side. Trim away the worn
part close to the seam on back side.

Mending a Rip

Set machine in the same way as for
patching.

Sew the edges of tear together first.

Then sew two more seams on either

side.
A piece of gauze can be placed

underneath to reinforce the rip.

Darning

Set machine as shown.

Stretch fabric over the hoop @ or
sew with free arm ® according to
the part you are going to darn.

Sew over the worn-out part with
closely spaced stitches, guiding
material back and forth by hand.

By making turning points blunt, the
darned part becomes softer and

more flexible.

^41 -

19. APPLIQUE WORK

Set machine as shown.

Draw design on material to be used
as an applique and cut it out.
Place cut-out on base material and
baste it.

Sew around outline with zigzag
stitch adjusting stitch length and
width according to shape and size
of cut-out and type of base material.

To change direction at corners, or
to sew very small circles, stop

machine, positioning needle just
away from edge of cut-out, lift press
er foot and turn material. Lower
presser foot and continue sewing.

Sew a few stitches at end with zig
zag width at 0.

This is to prevent unstitching.

Set machine as shown.

Remove foot, and holder screw.
To avoid lower thread being pulled

up, reduce upper thread tension.

For good embroidery, it is important
to use correct needles and thread.

Use thin embroidery silk for upper
thread and a thinner silk of same

kind and color for lower thread.

Trace your design on material and
center it in embroidery hoop.

Made sure material is taut.

Pull up lower thread by turning
handwheel towards you while hold

ing upper thread lightly.

V

Needle

No. 9

No. n

No. 14

V

...................

-

------------------------------------

---

—- V

Thread

120-100

100-80

60-50 ^

Lower presser foot lifter.

Grasp lower thread then make two
or three stitches, snip off excess

threads.

Start sewing along outline of design
with satin stitch.

Continue sewing with guiding hoop

by hand.
To finish filling, sew several stitches

with zigzag width at 0.

Lay typewriting paper underneath
when embroidering sheer fabric.

-43-

20. MAINTENANCE

Your machine requires regular
cleaning and oiling for satisfactory

sewing performance.
A machine which is used for a few
hours a day needs to be cleaned
and oiled once a month.

Cleaning

Remove foot and needle.
Remove needle plate.

Brush off all dust and lint on feed
dog with cleaning brush.

Turn latches outwards.

Remove hook race cover.
Remove hook. Clean hook race with

a cleaning brush and a soft cloth.

Oiling

Use oil manufactured especially

for sewing machine use. Other oils
will eventually cause mechanism
to jam.

Apply one drop of oil to hook where
friction occurs.

Replace hook and race cover care

fully, turn handwheel manually to

insure correct assembly.
Open face cover and apply oil to

points indicated with arrow.
Be careful not to apply too much oil

or it may stain your material and

cause some sewing difficulty.

After oiling, run machine for 1-2
minutes to allow oil to penetrate to
every part.

Remove top cover by loosening
screws @ ® and (c) with large
screwdriver.

Apply one drop of oil to lubricating points indicated by arrows.

-45-

21. TROUBLE CHART

PROBLEM

Breaking lower

thread

Skipping stitches

Irregular stitches

PROBABLE CAUSE

Thread not wound evenly on the bobbin
or not drawn up correctly

Lower thread tension too tight

Lint stuck in the bobbin case and inside

the tension spring

Needle not fully inserted

Needle bent

Size or type of needle and thread not
suitable for the material

Incorrect upper threading

Too much oil on the hook

Incorrect size of needle for the material

CORRECTION

RIO, P.15

P.12

Remove lint
and fluff with a
cleaning brush

P. 6

P. 6

P.16

R13

P.45

P.16

Thè material not
fed correctly

Noisy machine

Upper thread tension too loose

Incorrect lower tension

Pattern selection dial not set correctly

Incorrect feed dog height

Lint stuck on the feed dog

Check for thread in race, the

slightest amount of thread in race may
cause noise or binding, use material

like tooth pick or cotton swab to
clean.

-46-

P.20

P.12

P.17

P.12

P.44

P.45