SINGER W102 User Manual

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Certificate of Registration
INTER NAT IO NAL SEW ING MA CH INE CO RP

LIFE-TIME GUARANTEE

Each New Sewing Machine is warranted to be tree from defects , in materials and workmanship entering into the manufacture and assembly for the life of the machine. Any part, when returned transportation charges prepaid, will be repaired or replaced if proved to be defective.
Parts and accessories, such as belts, needles, bobbins, pulleys, attachments, etc., which normally require replacement, are not covered by this warranty. Electrical equipment as supplied by the manufacturer is warranted for one (I) year against defects in materials and workmanship.
This warranty does not cover any machine which, in our opinion, has been altered or damaged so as to affect its performance, nor any machine not used under normal household conditions, nor any machine not given reasonable care in accordance with the printed instructions.
Date of Purchase ; Dealer’s Name: Signed By :
___________________
Sewing Machine
Serial No.
Model No.
Purchaser
Address
City
Date of Purchase
Dealer’s Name
Detach and Mail—No postage necessary
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rPostage Stamp]
No
Necessary
[If Mailed in thej
kUnited Stales/
BUSINESS REPLY CARD

INTERNATIONAL SEWIN8 MACHINE CORP

1001 KIRKEBY CENTER,
10889 WILSHIRE BOULEVARD,
LOS ANGELES 24, CALIFORNIA
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FEATURES OF THE DURAMATIC 102

1. De luxe two-tone color.
2. Clean simple lines. . . acclaimed by everyone as the most beautiful sewing machine in the world.
3. Controls are grouped on a panel. They are well placed from both the esthetic and practical standpoint providing an unusual ease of control.
4. The large hinged bobbin case cover plate provides easy access to the bobbin case.
5. Exclusive hinged face plate cover swings open to provide easy access to sewing light. . . and easy oiling of the face plate mec
hanism.
6. Sew-light over needle spotlights your work eliminating any possi bility of eye strain.
7. New exclusive upper tension control-esthetic and practical-adds to the simplicity and beauty of styling.
8. Pressomatic calibrated pressure control is faster, more accurate and instantly adjustable to the proper and correct presser foot pressure.
9. Lifetime, dustless, slipless, tooth-type motor belt provides positive control at all sewing speeds.
10. Cast "no-twist” motor bracket eliminates torque and vibration.
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DE LUXE SEWING MACHINE

11. Specially designed all-in-one stitch length and reverse lever prov ides positive control both forward and backward.
12. Drop feed control designed to permit feed dog to be at proper height for heavy materials and for thin materials. .. to be comp
letely disengaged for darning or embroidery work. . . is plunger designed for quick positive return action.
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GENERAL CARE AND OILING

To obtain full and complete efficiency ^rom your sewing machine, study these instructions carefully to become familiar with its operati on and the controls and devices which are new to you.
Your sewing machine was carefully adjusted, tested on every kind of
sewing and was passed by the Chief Inspector after it was found to
be perfect in every respect.
Keep your machine cleaned and oiled. . . use thread of good quality and of proper size and weight tor the material. . . use needles ot good quality and of the proper size for the weight of thread you are using.
Be sure that the bobbin is evenly wound... and that the machine is threaded correctly.
Practice sew'ing on your machine so that you will operate it easily and naturally when you are making a garment.
Practice bobbin winding by taking the thread from one bobbin to another.
Remove and replace the needle several times. . . thread and unthread the machine a number of times until you can do it easily and natu
rally.
These little practice sessions will make you expert in the handling of your machine and will pay dividends in finish and appearance
when you are dressmaking in earnest.
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ii£!E by pulling on the cloth, for your seam will be uneven...
the seam will pucker. . . the thread may break. . . and the needle will
bend.
Change needles often
The average dress has upwards of 10,000 stitches...and a needle, if
new when starting, has pierced the material this many times and the
point has become dulled. If you see lint fuzz at the eye of the
needle, replace it for it indicates that the needle eye is rough.
Proper stitch length is important, too, and a practice session for a
few minutes on a piece of the material to be sewn will tell you if
you have (a) the proper thread, (b) the right needle, (c) the correct stitch length and (d) the right tension setting.
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PRESS-O-MATIC
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OILING INSTRUCTIONS

££k refined and prepared for sewing machines.
2. Put a drop at a time at the points shown in the illustration if the machine is used frequently.
3. If the sewing machine is used infrequently, use several drops; however, before sewing, practice stitching on some material scraps
until the oil has penetrated or reached all bearing surfaces and
excess oil has been wiped off.
4. Use extreme care when oiling the motor to be sure that oil does not reach the armature, coils, etc.
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IMPORTANT NOTES

The rotation of the machine must always
be in the direction shown by the arrowy
(See illustration with the arrow curving and pointing over the hand wheel towards the user) and never in the opposite direction.
The machine should never be run except when there is material under the presser foot and when the presser foot is dowm to avoid thread tangling and breaking.
At the end of the seam, to remove the work from machine, bring the needle to the highest position by turning the wheel in the direc tion of the user (never in the other direction).
Raise the presser foot (this, also releases the upper tension discs, allowing the thread to pull out freely).
Remove the work by pulling it gently in the direction of sewing, in
sert the threads and cut them on the blade of the thread cutter.
NOTE: Raise the presser foot only when the needle is at the top
position except when you have to continue sewing in a different direction to that of the preceding seam; in this case, take care not to pull or bend the needle, and raise the foot a little with the needle still piercing the material. The work can be turned around the
Fig- 1
needle, lowering the presser foot afterwards.
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UPPER THREADING

Turn the handwheel until the needle reaches its highest position.
For correct threading pass the thread through the guides and tension regulator as follows:
Place thread on spool pin and hold spool lightly, allowing it to slip as the thread is pulled. Bring the thread through thread guide A
down to the tension regulator B and under and between the tension discs C from right to left and up.
Continue by placing in loop of check spring D and under retaining
bar E. Continue up and thread
through the take-up lever F from right to left and down through thread guides (2) H.
Be sure to slip thread into the needle clamp thread guide I and then
thread the needle from left to right.
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WtNDING THE BOBBIN

Disengage the wheel, (Fig. 3.) Place thread on spool pin A
(Fig. 4)and draw thread through
thread guide on top cover B
(Fig. 4.) Bring thread across the
Fig. 3
machine to bobbin winder thread guide on bed plate C. Pull thread under and up left to right.
Wind a few turns of thread by hand around the bobbin and place
bobbin on bobbin winder spindle. Press on lever marked PUSH and bobbin winder will engage the hand
wheel. Start to fill bobbin by running the machine at normal speed to allow
the bobbin to wind evenly and firmly. The bobbin winder will stop and disengage itself, when the bobbin is about eighty percent filled.
NOTE; Do not fail to
tighten the brake button on the hand wheel iclock-wise) to re-engage the sewing mechanism.
Fig. 4
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THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

Hold bobbin in right hand with thread running to the right from the top. ^
Insert bobbin and pull the thread into the slot under the spring and
up into the eye.
NOTE; The tension adjustment of
the bobbin case is regulated by partial turns of the adjustment screw. It has been carefully and scientifically preset and will
seldom-if ever-
need to be changed or
Fig. «
re-set.
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REGULATING THREAD TENSION
NOTE: The upper tension is always released when the presser foot
is raised. Do not attempt to change or regulate upper tension until presser foot is lowered all the way to the feed dog.
Fig. 9
To have a perfect stitch the threads must be equally tightened from above and below
so that they join in the middle of the material being sewn. Sheer material requires a loose tension, while heavy
material requires more tension.
TO TIGHTEN the tension, turn the thread
tension regulator to the right.
TO LOOSEN the tension, turn the thread
tension regulator to the left.
Lower tension regulator
As all machines are correctly adjusted before leaving the factory and readjusted before delivered to you, the lower tension seldom requires changing; but if this becomes necessary, tighten the screw in the tension spring on the outside of the bobbin case for more tension, or loosen the screw slightly for less tension.
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PRiSS-O-MATIC REGULATOR

The Press-o-matic controls the pressure of the presser foot on the
material and can be regulated to exert normal pressure when pressed down all of the way. . .or regulated to eliminate all pressure if the
outside ring (Fig. 12) is pressed to permit the presser bar (Fig. 13) to raise about three-quarters of an inch. If you attempt to sew
without pressure, the material must be moved by hand.
When sewing on thin or sheer materials set the presser bar to
number 2 or number 3 position. . .all the way down for normal or heavy material.
Fig. 12
Fig. 13
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DROP FEED CONTROL

Fig, 1-}
1. For regular sewing press the button on the right down (See A Fig. 14) as far as it will go.
2. For light or sheer materials press the left button (See B Fig, 14) down until the red line is about even with the plate. (If the left button is too far, press the right button to force the left one up
and repeat the procedure).
3. For darning or free-hand embroidery, press the left button down ¡See B Fig. 14) as far as it will go. (Best results are obtained
when the darning spring is attached to the needle clamp).
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STARTING TO SEW

When starting to sew, the thread take-up lever must be at its highest position to
prevent the needle from becoming unthreaded.
Hold the free end of the
upper thread lightly and turn p¡g/ ~ ^ ’ the hand wheel towards you until the lower thread comes up.
Pull the ends to the back, being sure that the upper thread goes down, through and under the presser foot. Place material under the
presser foot. Lower the presser foot.
Start the machine and guide the material by letting the machine feed itself.
Do not pull on the material.
Do not run the machine unless there is material under the presser
foot. Do no, run the machine with
the presser foot raised.
Fig. l(i
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REGULATING THE STITCH LENGTH
The stitch length regulator adjusts the stitch length from very long (about 6 stitches per inch for very heavy material) to very short (about 30 stitches per inch for very sheer material).
Normal seaming or stitching requires a setting of
12 to 14 stitches per inch (#3).
The stitch length regulator, when raised above the center of the stitch
length panel, reverses the direction of the material and causes it to
move back to you.
Reversing the movement of the material is excellent for reinforcing a seam by double, triple or quadruple seaming. .. excellent for back­tacking the start or the end of a seam. Simply flick the lever up for 4 or 5 stitches and then bring it down again and the seam is securely locked. (Fig. 18)
For basting, use the longest stitch by pressing the stitch length lever all the way down and set the tension indicator to loose. (,The expert will use a slightly heavier bobbin thread). The threads can be easily pulled out after the permanent seam has been sewn.
NOTE: Do not neglect to return all settings to normal when basting
has been completed.
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Excellent darning or reinforcing can be done by adjusting the knob on the stitch length lever to limit or stop its downward or upward movement.
Set the stitch length to ¡ ¡^4, use a mercerized thread, and when the machine is running move the lever Up and down in a rhythmic movement and gently guide the material to the side as it moves backwards and forwards.

END OF SEAM

Stop the machine with the take-up lever and needle at their highest positions. Raise the presser foot (This also releases the upper tension, allow ing the thread to pull easily.)
Remove the work by pulling it gently toward the back and to the side.
NOTE: If the material does not pull easily, rock the hand wheel
gently back and forth to release the under thread from the hook or shuttle mechanism.
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CLEANING THE SHUTTLE MECHANISM

From time to time thread ends and lint may accumulate in the shuttle mechanism. (This problem can be noted if the sewing machine becomes noisy and is operadng under s.rain). The removal of lint
and thread ends does not require the services of a mechanic.
It can be quickly, simply and easily done as follows;
1. Remove bobbin case.
2. Push spring loaded knobs A away from the center.
3. Lift off hook or shuttle cover ring.
4. Remove the shuttle and clean it and the inside race carefully,
removing all dirt, lint and thread ends.
5. Replace the shuttle and shuttle cover ring in reverse order.
6. Push spring loaded knobs back into their holding position.
7. Replace bobbin case.
Fig. 19
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REPLACING BOBBIN CASE

Hold bobbin case by grasping latch with thumb and forefinger of left hand. Fig. 21.
Place bobbin case on hook or shuttle pin. Close latch by pushing it
until it clicks into place.
Fig. 21

STRAIGHT SEWING

Use long stitches for heavier materials-increasing in length as weight
of material increases.
Use shorter stitches for lighter weight materials-very short for thin or sheer materials to avoid seam puckering.
NOTE: Do not pull or hold back on the material, but guide it only.
(Pulling or holding back on the material-in addition to
forming uneven stitches-will break or bend the needle).
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QUILTING

The quilting attachment will enable
you to sew parallel lines on padded fabrics without the necessity of marking them in advance. Attach the quilter by pulling long wire hook out of horse-shoe shaped
clamp.
Attach the clamp on the presser
bar from behind and over the presser
foot and push the wire hook into place. Adjust the curved hook to
the desired distance from the needle and adjust it to press into the
fabric. When sewing, the hook should follow the preceding line of stitching.
The quilting attachment is available at all sewing machine stores.

NARROW HEMMER

With the needle in its highest posi tion, replace the presser foot with the narrow hemmer (Fig. 23). For a plain narrow' hem make a 1/8 inch double fold for about 2 inches along the edge of fabric.
Hold each end of the 2-inch fold,
Fig. 23
hemmer, draw forward to end and fasten with point of the needle Lower the presser foot. Gently pull the end of thread as you start
stitching. Guide the material slightly to right, and it will automatically
take a double turn through scroll.
NOTE: Do not crowd the material into scroll and do not leave
scroll only partly filled by the material. Feed just enough
material into the hemmer foot to fill out the scroll.
and slip underneath the hemmer. Bring fold up into the scroll of
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FRENCH SEAM (FELLING)

Proceed in the following manner; 1- Lay two pieces of cloth one on top of the other with their
RIGHT sides facing each other. The right edge of the bottom
piece must extend about 1/8 inch beyond the right edge of the top piece. See (Fig. 24).
1 Sew both pieces of cloth together. Use the right edge of long
toe of hemmer foot to guide the botton, piece of „ateri.l. while
the left edge of the same toe serves
as a guide for the top piece of material. (Fig. 25).
3.
Open and spread out material and put back on machine right sides down-ward. Make sewn edges of
material stand up.
4.
Fold over the edges to the left and insert them into the scroll of the
hemmer foot. Sew as you would do ordinary hemming. Use left edge of long toe of hemmer foot as guide,
having orgmal seam run alongside
of it.
TOP PIECE
BOTTOM PIECE
1ST STEP
«'IDTH OK lOF
2ND STEP
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FLAT FELLED SEAM

Fig. 26
TOP PIECE I ST STEP
.....
Ч
Open out French seam and ins ert rolled edge in scroll of heni-
mer. Edge stitch to lay seam flat
(Fig. 26).
2ND STEP
SND ROW TOP PIK
/
ЮТТО.М PIECE/
BOTTOM PIECE/ /1ST ROW

LACE TRIMMED HEM

To attach the lace to the hem, insert the lace in the slot next to needle. Sew hem as above, guiding lace un der needle and hem into scroll.
Fig. 27 (Fig. 27).

LACE EDGE WITH INVISIBLE STITCHING

Hold the lace % inch from raw edge on right side of fabric. Insert both in scroll as for plain narrow hem. Let hem roll over and sew in
Fig. 28 lace. Press lace out flat along edge
with hem turned up. For a little fullness in lace, feed it freely under scroll (Fig. 28).
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ATTACHING THi ZIPPER FASTENER

This adjustable zipper foot can be
moved to the left or right side of
the needle. It is used for sewing
zippers and cords.
Fig. 29

CLOTH GUIDE

This is an attachment designed as a guide for stitching when making
wide hems, deep tucks or seam width which are greater than presser foot
allows. (Fig. 30). It IS attached to machine as illustrated
Fig. 30
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TYPES OF NEEDLES: use only 15X1 needles
RECOMMENDED NEEDLES AND THREAD SIZES
TYPES OF FABRICS
CLASSES OF WORK
Y^rZ fabrics like Muslin, Georgette Chiffon, Batiste, fine Linens, Cambrics,
I
etc, For lingerie, infants’ wear and del
icate lace work. Light-weight Shirting and summertime
Fabrics, Linens, fine Silk Goods and
Calicoes. For children’s and house dre
I sses, washable cottoin. dresses, aprons
and curtains.
Shirtings Sheetings, Calicoes, Dress Si­^s and Cottons, light weight woollens, Draperies, etc. For general household
sewing and all classes of general work. Heavy CalicoeT^nd^^SEkTlighr’ii;;^^
Woollens, heavy Cretonnes, Madras, Mu- !
slin Brocades and Quilts. For men’s i work shirts, smocks and aprons, quilting and tabric mraishings. j
&d Tickii^s, U5hoIst5i7^iid~^^^rd^
Materials, Slip Cover Fabrics, Woolleh i
u “Cavy woven Coating, light wei- i ght Canvas. For trousers, boys’clothing, ^ work uniforms, awnings, slip covers and '
mattresses.
I Hei i ^f^i c Fn i s ^a ^ ^W o hT i etis T ^i^^ ^ r
woven Suiting and Coating. Canvas and backing. For heavy clothing in general i such as heavy uniforms, coats, trousers,’ i
For heavy goods, coarse cloths. Canvas ! Very Bags, etc.
supplies, bags, etc. ■
I
^ Coarse
SIZE OF THREAD
Cotton
100
: (X) and 000 :
to
; Twist =
150
80
to
100
60
to
80 40
to
60
30
to
40
24
to
3D
: E ■
■ I
A&B Twist
Twist
Twist
Twist
Silk
0
Twist
c
D
00
and
000
50
to
00
50
: SIZES OF
NEEDLES I
8 to 10 (fine)
11
(medium fine)!
14
(medium)
16
(light-heavy)
18
:(medium-
heavy)!
19
(heavy)
21
(extra-heavy) I
--
------------
Mercerized Singer (Grade)l
Heavy
Duty
Heavy
Duty
40
to
60 40
to
60
24
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INCREASE YOUR SEWING PLEASURE

THREAD
1- Select the correct size of thread for the material you are sewing.
NOTE; The right size and weight can quickly be determined by
pulling a thread from the material and matching the spool
of thread with it.
2. Use the same kind and weight of thread for both upper and bobbin thread.
3.
Avoid winding new thread over a partially wound bobbin.
4.
Use silk thread on woolens •••mercerized thread on fine cottons and synthetics
........
cotton thread on heavy materials, such as denims, work shirts, canvas, ticking, strong linens, slip covers, etc. NOTE: Most cotton materials are preshrunk and it is wise to use
preshrunk thread when sewing on preshrunk materials for the thread may shrink when laundered, causing the seam
to pucker.
5.
Bright colored thread is weaker than white or neutral colors.
Allow for this and use slightly larger thread size.
Proper attention to the selection of proper thread weight or size will
cause the stitches to "blend” into the material.
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NEEDLE
Always use highly polished chrome finished needles. The cost is
approximately the same and the workmanship is better.
Change needles often, for the point becomes dull and blunt due to the many thousands of times that the needle pierces the material when a dress or suit is being made. If you have a magnifying glass,
examine each new needle before putting it into your machine and look for (1) sharp edges around the eye, > 2) blunted or broken point,
and (3) a bent or "fish-hook” point.^ Lay the needle on a flat surface to be sure it is not bent or curved.
Choose the correct needle for the size of thread. If the needle is too
large the seam will appear to be a row of perforations.
..............
or if the needle is too small the thread will lay on top of the material and the tension settings will appear to be incorrect. Consult the needle
and thread guide for the correct needle and thread sizes.
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STITCH LENGTH
There are correct needle and thread stees for materials ...and there
IS also a correct stitch length.
A simple rule to follow is (1) short stitches for light or sheer
materials, (2) medium stitch length for medium materials, and (3) long stitches for heavy materials.
For best results-after selecting the correct thread and installing the right needle^practice stitching on a sample oi the material by experi menting with the stitch length until you have found the length that
causes the thread to "blend” into the material.
The stitch length governs or controls the pace at which the material moves under the presser foot, and when the correct length is longer
than average, more satisfactory work will be performed by operating the machine at slower speeds.
Do not pull on the material, for it will cause uneven stitch lengths
-bend or break the needle-break the thread.
The sewing „.chine is des.gned the correc, an.„„n. of
thread in relation to the movement of the feed mechanism.
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SEWING SPEED . ■
Do not operate the machine at a speed faster than you can correctly and properly assemble the material and properly align it tor feeding under the presser foot.
Sew for a few inches and stop •■•assemble the material and again sew for a few inches and stop and continue this way. You will avoid
mistakes and eliminate ripping out imperfect seams and resewing.
avoid minor troubles -
It is advisable to have periodic inspections by a competent mechanic
in order to insure perfect operation and long life of the machine.
If you are buying a new part or device take-or send-the old one and request that it be duplicated exactly.
If you are buying a new attachment or accessory take-or send-a sample from your box to be sure that the new one is manufactured
for and can be attached to vour machine.
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MEMO
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