This workbook is designed to teach basic and advanced sewing
techniques that you can achieve with your sewing machine.
You will need your manual to provide the exact settings for your
particular machine model. The difficulty or skill level
required for each technique is rated by this symbol:
“Two spools” indicate a more difficult technique.
These techniques require more practice to master
than others. The most important thing to remember is that sewing is a creative art—there are very few absolutes.
Straight Stitching 1
Straight Stitch for Topstitching 2
Create Quilted Fabric 3
Speed Basting 4
Making Piping 5
Attaching Purchased Piping 6
Centered Zippers 7
Satin Stitch Applique 9
Lace Insertion 11
Couching a Strand of Pearls 13
Button Sewing 14
Four-Step Buttonholes 16
Four-Step Corded Buttonholes 18
Free-Motion Monogramming 20
Free-Motion Embroidery 22
Blind Hem 24
Attaching Beaded Trims 26
Mending with Multi-Stitch Zigzag 27
Crazy Quilting 28
Straight Stretch Stitch for Woven Fabrics 29
Straight Stretch Stitch for Stretch Fabrics 30
Ribbing Application 31
Overedge Stitching 32
Open Seams with Overedge Stitching 33
Attaching Elastic 34
Sewing with a Wing Needle 35
Twin Needle Sewing 36
Applying Ribbon with a Twin Needle 37
Sewing on Leather 38
Narrow Hem 39
Gathering with the Cording Foot 40
Applying Trims, Cords & Braids 41
Shirring with the Gathering Foot 42
Using the Even Feed Foot to Sew Multiple Fabric Layers 44
Using the Even Feed Foot to Sew Plaid Fabrics 45
Using the Even Feed Foot to Sew Pile Fabrics 46
Sewing with the Side Cutter 47
Sewing with the Ruffler 49
Straight Stitching
The Straight Stitch is generally used to join seams or do topstitching. It is
the most basic of the stitches and is the most commonly used. For a
longer stitch or for thicker fabrics, lengthen the stitch using the Stitch
Length Dial.
Machine Set-Up:
Stitch: Straight Stitch
Stitch Width: 0, no width
Stitch Length: 3-4
Presser Foot: Standard Foot
Needle Position: Center
Materials:
(2) 4” x 4” pieces of cotton, right sides together
Procedure:
Place fabrics under the foot, matching the raw
edges with the 5/8” seam guide.
Sew the length of the fabric.
Use the Reverse Lever to reinforce the seam.
1
Straight Stitch for Topstitching
The Straight Stitch can be sewn “on top” of the fabric so that the stitches
are visible. This is different from using the straight stitch to join a seam
hidden inside the project. A topstitch provides a decorative touch while
holding the seam allowances flat. It is also sturdy and durable.
Machine Set-Up:
Stitch: Straight Stitch
Stitch Width: 0, no width
Stitch Length: 3-4
Presser Foot: Standard Foot
Needle Position: Center
Materials:
(2) 5” x 5” pieces of cotton with batting between the two fabrics,
creating a quilt-type sample
Procedure:
Sew diagonally from the top left corner to the bottom right corner.
Use the Reverse Lever to reinforce the seam.
2
Create Quilted Fabric
Create your own quilted fabric with the Straight Stitch and the Seam/Quilt
Guide. This attachment is great when sewing large projects that cover the
machine’s seam guides.
Machine Set-Up:
Stitch: Straight Stitch
Stitch Width: 0, no width
Stitch Length: 3-4
Presser Foot: Standard Foot
Needle Position: Centered
Materials:
Quilt-type sample that was previously used on the
“Straight Stitch for Topstitching” page
Procedure:
Use the guide to ensure even spacing and
straight lines when large projects cover the machine’s seam guides.
Position fabric approximately 1-2 inches to the right of the previously
sewn straight stitch.
Position the guide so that it rides on the previous row of stitching.
Sew successive rows using the guide.
Change the direction, sew diagonally from the top right corner to the
bottom left corner.
Sew 3 or more rows, using the guide.
*Depending on model, the Seam/Quilt Guide might be optional. Check the instruction
manual.
3
Speed Basting
Basting is used to temporarily hold fabrics together. Stitch length and
tension are adjusted to create a looser stitch. This stitch can easily be
removed with a seam ripper or simply pulled out.
Machine Set-Up:
Stitch: Straight Stitch
Stitch Width: 0, no width
Stitch Length: 5
Presser Foot: Standard Foot
Tension: Adjust the tension setting to a smaller number
Needle Position: Center
Materials:
(2) 4” x 4” pieces of cotton, right sides together
Procedure:
Place under the foot, matching the raw edges with the 5/8” seam guide.
Sew the length of the fabric.
Use the seam ripper to remove a portion of the basting or simply pull the
bobbin thread to completely remove basting.
4
Making Piping
Piping adds a beautiful finish to projects such as pillows, sleeve edges,
collars and more. The design of the Zipper Foot allows for the needle to
stitch very closely to the edge of the foot. This is important when inserting
zippers, applying piping or when topstitching close to the fabric’s edge.
Only the Straight Stitch can be used when sewing with the Zipper Foot.
Machine Set-Up:
Stitch: Straight Stitch
Stitch Width: 0, no width
Stitch Length: 3-4
Presser Foot: Zipper Foot
Needle Position: Center
Materials:
5” x 6” home décor fabric
7” piping cord
Procedure:
Fold fabric, wrong sides together.
Place piping inside of the fold.
On the right side of the fabric, sew a straight stitch close to the piping.
Note: The Zipper Foot can be attached right or left, allowing for
the piping to be inserted from either side.
5
Attaching Purchased Piping
Attach pre-packaged piping to make a bold finish on home decorating
projects, crafts or garments.
Machine Set-up:
Stitch: Straight Stitch
Stitch Width: 0, no width
Stitch Length: 3-4
Presser Foot: Zipper Foot
Needle Position: Center
Materials:
(2) 3” x 6” pieces of home décor fabric
7” pre-packaged piping
Procedure:
Place fabric right sides together.
Place piping between the fabrics, matching the piping’s raw edge with
the fabric’s raw edges.
On the wrong side of the fabric sew a straight stitch close to the piping.
Note: The Zipper Foot can be attached right or left, allowing for
the piping to be inserted from either side.
Piping Raw Edges
Fabric Raw
Stitching Line
6
Centered Zippers
There are several ways of inserting zippers. The pattern envelope of the
project or garment will designate the best type of zipper application, as
well as the length and type of zipper to use. Most applications require a
zipper foot.
Machine Set-Up:
Stitch: Straight Stitch
Stitch Width: 0, no width
Stitch Length: For basting: longest stitch
For stitching: 3-4
Presser Foot: Zipper Foot
Tension: For basting: loosen the tension
For stitching: Auto
Needle Position: Start with needle in left position
The needle can be moved to the left or right. This will allow stitching
closer to the zipper than when the needle is in the center position.
Materials:
(1) 7” zipper
(2) 8” x 4” piece of medium weight fabric
Transparent tape
Fabric glue stick
Procedure:
Place fabric under the foot, matching the raw edges with the 5/8” seam
guide.
Starting at the top of the fabric, baste 7”. Then change the stitch length
to 3 and finish seaming the remaining length of the fabric.
7
Press the seam open. Finish raw edges if necessary.
Apply glue stick lightly on the right side of the zipper.
Place the zipper face-down, so that the zipper’s coils or teeth are
directly over the machine-basted seam. Pin in place, if necessary.
Spread fabric flat, right side up and place 1/2” wide transparent or
perforated marking tape on top of the centered seam line. The tape
should be the length of the zipper (7” long for this exercise).
Replace the Standard Presser Foot with the Zipper Foot. Adjust the
foot to the left of the needle.
On the right side of the fabric, stitch around the zipper. Pivot the fabric
on the needle at the corners, using the edge of the tape as a guide.
Turn fabric to right side and remove the tape and the basting. Press.
8
Satin Stitch Appliqué
A close Zigzag Stitch is called a Satin Stitch. Satin Stitching is a great
way to finish an appliqué on children’s clothes and home decorating
projects. Try a rayon thread for a smoother looking finish.
5” x 3” of batiste
6” strip of lace
60-80 weight fine cotton thread
Procedure:
Spray starch and iron the lace and batiste.
Center the lace right side up, lengthwise on batiste.
Stitch lace to fabric by sewing a zigzag stitch down both edges of the
lace. Try to just clear the heading of the lace.
*Depending on model the Satin Foot might be optional. Check the instruction manual.
11
Carefully cut under the lace down the center.
Turn these raw edges back away from the lace, then finger press.
Finish fabric’s edges by sewing a small zigzag through all layers, being
careful not to catch too much lace.
Turn fabric over and trim excess fabric seam allowances away.
Note: A nice touch can be added by stitching a row of decorative
stitches down each side of the lace.
12
Couching a Strand of Pearls
Couching is a term for sewing over trims, such as cord, ribbon or a strand
of pearls. The stitch may or may not penetrate the cord it stitches over,
depending on the desired effect. A Zigzag stitch or a wide decorative
stitch are excellent choices for this technique.
Machine Set-Up
Stitch: Zigzag
Stitch Width: Adjust according to size of pearls
Stitch Length: 3 or 4
Presser Foot: Standard Foot
Needle Position: Center
Materials:
Monofilament thread
String of pearls
Felt or stabilized woven fabric
Procedure:
Lay pearls or other couching trim on top of fabric.
Stitch, adjusting width to ensure the stitch slightly encases the trim as
desired.
:
13
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