SINGER 771 User Manual

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<iT

Deluxe Zig-Zag Sewirig Machine by SINGER

Congratulaiions... You are about to discover the wonderfui pleasure of sewing with your new

Touch & Sew* sewing machine. The Modei 771 Flip & Sew* sewing machine

features a hinged bed lor free arm sewing. And you will also enjoy;

• the simplicity of dial controls. Now, you can simply dial a stitch length, a stitch width, and a stitch pattern; pressure and tension settings; even buttonhole stitching

• the versatility Oi sewing capacity that produces stitches that stretch, and stitches that don't stretch ... permanent stitches that are firmly locked in, and temporary stitches that pul! out easily... stitches that decorate, embroider, mend, baste

• and, of course, the ease of the push-button bobbin, and much more!

Among the many Singer engineering and design features that ensure these sewing pleasures are —

• buHt-in stitch patterns, which let you produce a straight stitch and a variety of zig-zag patterns by simply turning a dial, plus Flexi-Stitch* patterns for stitching knit and stretch fabrics and producing intricate stitch designs

• Soft-touch Fabric Feed that protects even the most delicate fabrics

• one-way needle clamp that makes it impossible to insert the needle back wards

• stitch control dial that lets you switch from regular to s-t-r-e-t-c-h

stitching

• easy needle plate changing — needle plate secured by magnets is easy to lift out for cleaning

• three-position presser foot lifter that lets you place bulky fabric or many fabric layers under the presser foot

As you go through this book, you will discover how these and many other leatures give you the ultimate in simplicity of operation and beautiful results.

sewing!

SINGEB* Service is always close at hand, if your machine should need servic ing, call your local SINGER Sewing Center to be sure of v.'arranted SINGER Parts and Service. You will find the address in the telephone directory under SINGER COMPANY.

AU Rights Reserved Throughoyt the Wodd

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CONTENTS

1. Getting to Know Your Machine......................................................................

Principal Parts and What They Do..................................................................................................... 3

Accessories.......................................................................................................................................... 4

2. Getting Ready to Sew

Preliminary Steps ................................................................................................................................... 6

Choosing Needle and Thread ............................................................................................................. 7

Threading the Machine..................................................................................................................... 12

3. Straight Stitching...................................................................................................................................... 18

Preparation ..................................................................................................................................... 18

Starting to Sew.................................................................................................................................... 18

Adjusting for Your Fabric.................................................................................................................. 19

Sewing a Seam..................................................................................................................................... 21

4. Zig-Zag Stitching.................................................................................................................................... 25

Zig-Zag Stitch Patterns......................................................................................................................... 25

Adjusting Dials.................................................................................................................................... 26

Satin Stitching .................................................................................................................................... 28

5. Twin-Needle Stitching.............................................................................................................................. 29

Inserting the Needle............................................................................................................................ 29

Threading the Needle.......................................................................................................................... 30

Dial Settings ........................................................................................................................................ 31

Turning a Square Corner ..................................................................................................................... 32

.....

.......................................................................................................................... 6

.......................................

6. Temporary Stitching

Speed Basting ................................................................................................................................... 33

Chainstitching....................................................................................................................................... 35

7. Buttons and Buttonholes........................................................................................................................ 39

Buttons............................................................................................................................................... 39

Buttonholes....................................................................................................................................... 40

8. Free-Motion Stitching ............................................................................................................................ 46

Flower Embroidery ............................................................................................................................ 46

9. Sewing the Professional Way ............................................................................................................. 47

Construction Details......................................................................................................................... 47

Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabric .......................................................................................................

Hints on Sewing Special Fabric......................................................................................................... 58

Decorative Touches ............................................................................................................................. 60

Keeping Up Appearances................................................................................................................. 65

10. Free-Arm Sewing

11. Caring for Your Machine ................................................................................................................... 72

Cleaning the Machine ........................................................................................................................ 72

Removing Covers. Bobbin Case, and Bulb........................................................................................ 73

Performance Checklist ....................................................................................................................... 76

12. Sewing Aids

...................................................................................................................................... 78

..............

................................................................................................................................ 68

................................................................................................................ 33

Index................................................................................................................................................................. 80

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1. GETTING TO KNOW YOUR MACHINE

12, Spool Hol<ler

13. Handwheel

Switch

Dial

16. Stitch Width Dial

Dial

Lever

19* Suttonhoie Dial

20. Sewing Light

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principal parts and what they do

1. Pattern Selector Dial can be set to pro duce a straight stitch, a decorative or practical zig-zag stitch: or speed basting.

2. Tension Dial lets you select just the right tension for your stitch, thread, and fabric. The numbers eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings,

3. Tension Discs, controlled by the tension dial, regulate the amount of tension on your needle thread.

4. Self-Threading Take-up Lever controls flow of needle thread.

5. Pressure Dial regulates presser-foot pressure on fabric. It has an all-purpose sewing setting plus settings for extra light and extra-heavy pressure and for darning.

6. Face Plate swings open for access to threading chart and pressure dial.

7. Thread Cutter is built into presser bar for safety and convenience,

8. Presser Foot holds fabric against feed.

9. Soft-Touch Feed moves fabric under

presser foot. Soft surface does not injure fabric, even the most delicate.

10. Needle Plate, secured by magnets, lifts out for removal. Guidelines on right and left sides of plate help you keep seams straight.

11. Slide Plate opens easily, lets you see bobbin. Releases bobbin push button from winding to sewing position when closed. Seam guidelines (extended from needle plate) have cross lines to help you turn square corners.

12. Friction-Free Spool Holder with horizon tal pin holds spools of various sizes: holder lets thread unwind without tug or drag. The spool does not turn.

13. Hand Wheel controls movement of takeup lever and needle. Always turn it toward

you.

14. Power and Light Switch turns on machine and sewing light simul taneously. FAST and SLOW speed range settings let you choose the best sewing speed for your work.

15. Needle Position Dial places needle in either L (left), A (center) or R (right) stitching position.

16. Stitch Width Dial controls the width of zig-zag stitching and positions the nee dle for bobbin winding and straight stitching.

17. Stitch Control Dial allows for a variety of stitch lengths, including FINE for zig-zag satin stitching. Has special settings for buttonholing and Flexi-Stitch patterns.

18. Reverse-Stitch Lever instantly reverses stitching direction at the touch of your finger.

19. Buttonhole Diai controls steps in sewing round-end buttonholes. Dial must be in OFF position when not in use,

20. Built-in Sewing Light illuminates sewing area. Pull-down bracket makes it easy to replace bulb.

21. Hinged Plate converts machine for free arm sewing.

22. Needle Clamp is designed to make nee dles self-setting and eliminate the possibility of inserting needle back wards.

23. Presser Foot Lifter, at back of machine, allows you to raise and lower presser foot. Extra-high lift position permits easy placement of bulky fabrics.

24. Transparent Bobbin shows thread sup ply. Two halves can be unscrewed to гетюуе unwanted thread.

25. Bobbin Latch holds bobbin in place. Flips up at the touch of your finger for easy bobbin removal.

26. Bobbin Push Button allows you to switch from sewing to bobbin winding without rem*oving bobbin.

27. Electrical Connections and Speed Con

troller designed for convenience and

safety.

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accessories

The accessories that come with your Touch & Sew sewing machine are designed to help you

do many Kinds of sewing easily and perfectly. To increase the versatility of your machine, additional accessories can be purchased at your Singer store. See page 78.

1. BOBBINS

Transparent Bobbin Seam and Biindstitch

Hem Guide

Regular Needle

Bat! Point

(Yellow Band) Needle

Twin Needle

• Transparent drop-in bobbin in your machine.

• Extra transparent drop-in bobbins.

2. SEAM AND BLINDSTITCH HEM GUIDE

• Helps you stitch seams and blindstitch hems of uniform width.

3. NEEDLES

IMPORTANT: Your SINGER sewing

machine has been designed to obtain best results with SINGER* needles. You should follow the recommendations in this in struction book and on the needle package for correct style and size of needle for different types and weights of fabric.

• Style 2020 (15x1) needles, for all-pur pose sewing.

• Style 2045 ball-point Yellow Band" nee

dles, for sewing synthetic knits and stretch fabrics.

Vertical

Spool Pin

Small

Spool Holder

Lint Brush

Style 2028 needle, decorative stitching.

4. VERTICAL SPOOL PIN

• Vertical spool pin for decorative twin-

needle stitching.

5. SMALL SPOOL HOLDER

• For use with small diameter tubes of

thread.

6. LINT BRUSH

• Lint brush for cleaning your sewing

machine.

for twin-needie

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7. PRESSER FEET

• The genera! purpose foot on your machine.

• Additionai interchangeabie snap-on presser feet:

Straight stitch foot for close fabric control

Zipper foot for inserting zippers and stitching corded seams

Special purpose foot for all kinds of decorative zig-zag stitching

Buttonhole foot to make round-end buttonholes

Overedge foot for overedged seams in stretch fabric

• A one-piece button foot to hold buttons securely for stitching.

• Even Feed Foot for sewing hard-to-feed pile, stretch, and bonded fabrics. Also excellent for matching plaids and stripes and for topstitching. (Cannot be used for speed basting.)

Fresser Feet

% •: I;

. \\ General Purpose

Foot

P p Zipper Foot

; Buttonhole Foot

>, Straight

Stitch

Special Purpose

Overedge Foot // /

8. MEEDLE PLATES

• The general purpose needle plate in place on your machine.

• The straight stitch needle plate for use with the st.--aight stitch foot.

• The chainstitch needle plate for single thread chainstitching.

• The feed-cover plate for button sewing

and free-motion work.

9. CHAINSTITCH FITTINGS

• One set of three fittings.

Thread Guide

Bobbin Case Cover

Needle Plate

Heedle Plates

General Purpose

Needle Plate

Straight Stitch

Needle Plate

ChamstiicN Fittings

Chainstitch

Needle Piate

Feed Cover

Plate

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2. GETTliyC READY TO SEW

preliminary steps

1. CONNECTING MACHINE

Before plugging in your machine, be sure that the voltage and number of cycles indicated at the right end of the machine or inside face

plate conform to your electrical power supply. Push the machine plug into the machine recep

tacle. Then connect the power-line plug to

your electrical outlet

2. OPERATING MACHINE AND

CONTROLLER

To turn on both the machine and sewing light and set speed range, slide the power and light switch to the selected range.

F>Sv3T OFF' 3L.OW

^ i': ' T'^"rT?TTT

T¥^’T

F>OW3P^ e< L^IOMT

• The FAST setting allows for full speed ca

pacity of the machine. It is best for long, straight seams, easy-to-handle fabrics, and general sewing where a variety of speeds are needed.

Power and Light Switch

Speed Controller

• The SLOW setting allows for maximum con trol at lower sewing speeds. Use this setting for special jobs such as button sewing, but tonhole making, and where intricate con struction details require close control.

CAUTION: We recommend that you turn off the power and light switch before changing needles, presser feet or needle plates and when leaving the machine unattended. This elimi nates the possibility of starting the machine by accidentally pressing the speed controller.

To run the machine, press the speed con troller. The harder you press, the faster the

machine will sew within the selected speed range.

Very light pressure on the controller will oper ate the machine very slowly, enabling you to stop the machine with the needle In any desired position, up or down.

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choosing needle and thread

The needle and thread you choose will depend upon the fabric being stitched. The table below is a practical guide to needle and thread

FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE t

selection. Refer to it before starting a sewing project Be sure to use the same size and type of thread in both needle and bobbin.

FABRIC WEIGHT AND TYPE

DELICATE — tulle, chiffon, fine lace, or

ganza, chiffon velvet

LIGHTWEIGHT - batiste, organdy, voile,

taffeta, crepe, chiffon velvet, plastic film, satin, surah, peau de soie, shantung, brocade

MEDIU.Vt WEIGHT - gingham, seersucker,

madras, percale, piqué, linen, chintz, faille. fine corduroy, velveteen, suitings, vinyl, terry doth, chains, twill

MEDIUIVI HEAVY — gabardine, tv/eed, sail

cloth. duck, denim, coatings, drapery fabrics, vinyl, deep“pile fabrics, corduroy, bonded fabric

HEAVY — overcoatings, upholstery fabrics,

canvas

KNITS, WOVEN STRETCH AND ELASTIC--

double knits, bonded knits, spandex, ny

lon tricot ciré tricot, jersey, panné velvet,

stretch terry

LEATHER — suede, kidskin. calf, capeskin.

buckskin, cabreita. patent, cobra, lined

leathers, simulated leathers

VINYLS (KNIT BACK)-suede, imitation

reptile, crinkle patent, patent, embossed and printed vinyls

WOVEN FABRICS (ALL WEIGHTS) - dec

orative straight-stitch topstitchlng

LIGHT AND MEDIUM WEIGHTS (WOVEN) -

decorative twin-needle stitching

tDoes not apply to chalnstitching.

ttSize 9 needle recommended for sewing only. For

tttUse with mercerized cotton, “A” silk, or polyester

THREAD

Fine polyester, nylon,

or cotton thread Cotton-wrapped

polyester (FINE)

100% polyester

SO mercerized cotton

’^A" nylon

‘‘A’’silk

Cotton-wrapped polyester

100% polyester

50 mercerized cotton

60 cotton

“A” silk

Cotton-wrapped polyester

100% polyester

Heavy-duty

mercerized cotton

40 to 60 cotton

Cotton-wrapped polyester

Heavy-duty

mercerized cotton

40 cotton

Cotton-wrapped polyester

100% polyester

'‘A'" nylon

50 mercerized cotton

‘‘A’' silk

Cotton-wrapped polyester

100% polyester

50 mercerized cotton

nylon

“A" silk

Cotton-wrapped polyester

100% polyester

50 mercerized cotton

nylon

Yellow Band

^'A^’silk

-D'’silkttt

(Buttonhole twist)

Cotton-wrapped polyester

100% polyester

50 mercerized cotton

bobbin winding use larger size needle,

thread in bobbin.

NEEDLES

TYPE SIZE

Style 2020

(15x1)

Style 2020

,15x1)

Style 2020

(15x1)

Style 2020

(15x1)

Style 2020

(15x1)

Style 2045

Ball Polrit

Style 2032

(15x2)

Style 2045

Sail Point

Style 2020

(15x1)

Style 202$

(twin)

9tt

14 16

16 16

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Changing the Needle

NEEDLES

The needle you use should be straight to en sure perfect stitch formation and needle penetration through the fabric. The needle should also be fine enough to prevent the fabric from being marred with large punctures, yet heavy enough to pierce the fabric without being bent or deflected. Remember, too, that the eye of the needle must be large enough for the thread to pass through freely; too fine a needle will cause the thread to fray.

For best results use a SINGER* needle.

Changing the Needle

1. Raise needle bar to its highest point, loosen needle-clamp screw, and remove needle.

2. insert new needle in clamp, with the flat

side of the needle to the back; push it up as far as it will go.

General Purpose Foot

3. Tighten needle-clamp screw.

choosing accessories

The type of sewing you plan to do will deter mine which presser foot and needle plate you should use.

PRESSER FEET Three Most Used Presser Feet

General purpose foot is used with the general

purpose needle plate for all utility sewing and some decorative zig-zag stitching. These general purpose accessories ntust be used together when alternating between straight and zig-zag stitching.

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straight stitch foot Is used with the straight

stitch needle plate when your fabric or sewing procedure requires close control Use for:

• Precision straight stitching of curved and scalloped edges, top stitching, edge stitch ing. etc.

• Straight stitching delicate or spongy fabrics.

Special purpose foot is used with the general

purpose needle plate for all kinds of decora tive zig-zag stitching. The raised center sec tion of the foot allows closely spaced zig-zag stitching to feed freely while the toe holds fabric firmly for straight line feeding. Use for:

• Ornamental stitching, bar-tack buttonholes.

Flexi-Stitch pattern stitching, applique, satin stitching,

Presser Feet for Special Sewing Needs Zipper foot is used to place stitching close to

a raised edge. Thus, it is useful for corded seams (page 48) as well as zipper insertion

(page 47). It can be fitted to the presser foot shank for use on either the right or left side of the needle.

Straight Stitch Foot

Button Foot

Sutton foot holds any two-hole or four-hole button securely for stitching. The groove in the foot can be used to hold a needle, over which a thread shank can be formed.

Buttonhole foot. This snap-on transparent foot is used to make two-step, round-end but tonholes in fabrics of light to medium weight. The guidelines on the sole plate simplify but tonhole placement and make it easy to gauge buttonhole length.

Overedge foot, used with the overedge stretch pattern (see page 54) enables you to produce flexible overedge seams and edge finishes. It is particularly useful in construc tion of garments made of knit, stretch, and elastic fabric.

Even Feed foot improves the feeding of fabrics that tend to stick, stretch, or slip while being sewn. The foot feeds top and bottom fabric layers together so that seams start even, feed evenly, and end even.

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Changing Snap^on Presser Feet

press Toe Upward for Rerr.ovai

of New Presser Foot under Shank

■ \, Lower Presser Bar and Press Down on Screw

; to Secure New Foot

CHANGING PRESSER FEET

Snap-on Presser Feet

These presser feet snap on and off a common shank.

1. Raise needle to its highest position and raise the presser foot.

2. Press toe of presser foot upward (as far as it will go) and then snap down to remove.

3. Center the new presser foot under the shank and lower the presser bar so that the shank fits over the presser foot pin.

4. Press down on presser foot screw until foot snaps into place.

To remove and replace shank of snap-on presser feet, follow instructions below for one-piece presser feet.

Changing One-Piece Presser Foot

Movable Arm.

One-Piece Presser Feet

1. Raise needle to its highest position and raise the presser foot.

2. Loosen presser foot screw and remove the

foot.

3. Hook new foot around the presser bar and tighten presser foot screw.

NOTE: When changing one-piece presser feet, you may insert the edge of a coin in the slot to tighten presser foot securely.

The Even Feed Foot

• Guide Even Feed foot into position from

back of machine, making sure the movable arm straddles the needle clamp. Tighten presser-foot screw securely with a coin.

Needle Clamp

Changing Even Feed Foot

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NEEDLE PLATES

General purpose needle plate, in place in

your machine, can be used with all presser feet.

Straight stitch needle plate for use with the straight stitch presser foot.

Chainstitch needle plate is one of three ac cessories that must be used together for ohainstitching. For instructions, refer to “Chainstitching” beginning on page 35.

General Purpose Needle Plate

Feed cover plate for use when fabric feeding

is not desired.

CHANGING NEEDLE PLATE

NOTE: Remove bobbin if it contains thread in order to prevent thread being caught when needle plate is replaced.

1. Raise needle to its highest point and raise presser foot.

2. Open slide plate. Remove needle plate by

placing thumb under plate and lifting it up and out.

Straight Stitch Needle Plate

Chainstitch Needle Plate

3. Position new needle plate over the two pins and release. (Needle plate is drawn into

position by magnets.)

4. Close slide plate.

Changing Needle Plate

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threading the machine

Place spool or tube of thread on horizontal spool pin. If spool has a retaining slit, the slit should be placed against the spool cushion to the right Select correct spool holder according to the type and diameter of spool being used. The diameter of the end of the spool holder should always be larger than that of the spool itself. Press holder firmly against spool to pre vent it from turning.

With two hands, slip thread horizontally between ten sion discs from the top.

ÍO Hold Small Tubes

To Hold Small Spools To Hold Large Spools

THREADIMG THE NEEDLE

With right hand, lead thread under thread guide on right side . . .

Turn hand wheel to raise take-up lever to its highest posi

... and, with left hand, lead

thread over spring and un der guide on left side.

tion, and raise presser foot to release the tension discs.

2, Lead thread through all points as shown, making sure to:

Use both hands and snap thread horizontally into thread

guide-post, making sure it enters eyelet fine thread

should be doubled for added strength.

Thread tension discs as illustrated at left. Thread take-up lever from back to front, guiding thread

Allow spring to return to its

normal up position and con

tinue threading the machine.

down over top of lever and then up into eyelet. Thread needle from front to back, drawing about four in

ches (10cm) of thread through eye of needle.

Note: Dotted lines in illustrations represent thread path hidden by machine.

Page 15

WINDING THE BOBBIN

Push-button bobbin winding wiO make your sewing go faster than ever before — whether you are using a lot of one kind of thread or small quantities of blfierent threads.

You will find a bobbin in place under the slide plate of your machine. To open slide plate, simply slide it gently toward you. If the bobbin runs out of thread while you are sewing, you

can rewind it without removing it from the

machine-

Bobbin

preparation for Winding

l4 R I

r 1 Ti-i

Preparation Steps Make sure buttonhole dial is in OFF position.

1. Use genera! purpose, special purpose, or straight stitch presser foot.

2. Raise presser foot to release tension on

thread, and raise the needie to its highest

position. (Make sure your needle is a size

11 or larger).

3. Set needle position and stitch width dials at straight stitch setting indicated by

A symbols.

4. Open slide piate and make sure bobbin is empty. For removal of bobbin and thread, see page 16.

Page 16

Wmdirsg Steps

1. Press bobbin push button to the left to engage it in winding position.

2. Wrap thread around pressar foot screw, and hold end of thread firmly.

3. Start the machine.

* Run the machine at a moderate speed. ♦ Pull thread end away after a few coils

have been wound.

• Keep your eye on the bobbin as it fills. Do

not allow thread to wind beyond the out side FULL ring.

4. Close slide plate to release push button to sewing position.

Turn to the next page for instructions on start ing to sew.

Winding Steps

Step 1

Do Not Allow

Page 17

how to start sewing

How you begin to sew after winding a bobbin depends on whether your stitching is to start at or away from the edge of the fabric.

TO START AT FABRIC EDGE

♦ Position needle in very edge of fabric by

pressing speed controller lightly or turning the hand wheel

• Lower the presser foot and stitch. The con tinuous thread, leading from the needle to the bobbin, will 'lock” over the fabric edge.

TO START AWAY FROM FABRIC EDGE

• Puli thread back under presser foot and cut.

• Position needle in fabric where desired and stitch.

NOTE: Should the bobbin run out of thread

after you have begun a line of stitching, re

move the fabric, rewind the bobbin, and follow

the two immediately preceding steps.

Starting at Fabric Edge

with a Continuous Thread

Starting Away from Fabric Edge

Page 18

Removing Bobbin

changing the bobbin

REMOVING THE BOBBIN

Raise needle to its highest position.

1. Open slide plate; leave bobbin push button in sewing position,

2. Raise bobbin latch by inserting fingernail under end of latch at center of bobbin.

Open Slide Plate and Raise Latch

/■^ f. V ' V -X

/ / /■ ;■' ’Vf^--:-. Ч Ч

/ / / ,/

Lift Out Bobbin

Replacing Empty Bobbin

.........

X .

V ■ ■

> У

7 ^

■:. < /

/ /

Slip Bobbin into Case

V —

.-г'-Л,

. '' '

3. Insert fingernail under rim of bobbin im mediately to right of latch and remove the bobbin.

REPLACING AN EMPTY BOBBIN

1. Make sure bobbin halves are securely tight

ened.

2. With latch raised, slip bobbin (wide side

up) into bobbin case. Then snap latch down to secure bobbin.

3. Leave the slide plate open until you have finished winding,

REMOVING THREAD FROM BOBBIN

■\

If there is not much thread left on the bobbin, you do not need to remove bobbin from ma chine— simply pull the thread end through the needle plate.

If there is a lot of thread left and you do not wish to reserve it by setting aside the bobbin for future use, remove the bobbin, unscrew the two halves, and remove all the thread at once.

Then screw the two halves together, tighten ing securely.

/ /'

■ <, /

f/ 'x..^;-^:r v-.

Snap Latch Down

/ \...

Removing Thread from Bobbin

Page 19

REPLACING A WOUND BOBBIN

0':4K7r>

VVi

^ / / Insert Bobbin

Close Slide Plate

Raise needle to Its highest position.

1 Open slide plate; leave bobbin push button

in sewing position.

2. Draw about four inches {10cm) of thread from bobbin and place bobbin in case with thread leading off to right side of latch. Snap latch down to secure bobbin.

3. Close slide plate, allowing the thread to enter the slot in the slide plate. Then raise

the bobbin thread as instructed below.

RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD

1. Hold needle thread lightly with left hand

/■"o

and turn hand wheel slowly toward you so that needle enters needle plate,

2. Continue turning hand wheel until needle

rises and brings up bobbin thread in a loop.

Replacing a Wound Bobbin

Stepi

3. Undo the loop and place both threads under the presser foot, laying them diagonally to the right Position needle in fabric where desired, lower the presser foot and stitch.

Raising the Bobbin Thread

Page 20

3. STRAIGHT STITCHING

Pattern: Straight Stitch

Needie Position: A Stitch Width: A Stitch Controi; To suit fabric

1 :... 4. ; A

Dials Set for Straight Stitching

Straight Stitch Needle Plate or General Purpose Needle Plate Straight Stitch Foot or General Purpose Foot

preparation

Before you set the dials for straight stitching,

turn the handwheel toward you untiltheneedle

is above the needle plate.

Straight Stitch Foot and Needle Plate

SETTING THE IVIACHINE

1. Set pattern dial selector at .

2. Move needle position dial to A .

3. Set stitch width dial on A .

4. Set stitch control for desired stitch length. For regular straight stitching, turn dial to a numbered setting; for straight stretch stitching, turn dial to

^ setting.

CHOOSING ACCESSORIES

Best results will be obtained if you use the straight stitch foot and needle plate. However, the general purpose foot and needle plate

may also be used.

starting to sew

* Place needle and bobbin threads under pres-

ser foot and draw to back of machine.

• Position the needle in the fabric where de

sired for stitching start.

♦ Lower the presser foot and start the machine. To sew perfectly on a wide variety of fabrics

adjust stitch length, pressure and thread ten sion as instructed on the following pages.

For information on straight stretch stitching, turn to page 52.

Page 21

adjusting for your fabric

SETTING STITCH LENGTH

The stitch-controi dial regulates the length of

both straight and zig-zag stitches. The num

bers 6 to 20 represent the number of straight stitches per inch and the numbers 1 to 4 represent stitch length in milhnneters. Generally, shorter stitches are best for light weight fabric; longer ones for heavy fabric. Curved seams, bias-cut seams and scallops

require short straight stitches for elasticity and smooth contours. Bound buttonholes should be sewn with a short stitch for durability and strength.

The FINE area is used for the adjustment of zig-zag satin stitching (page 28} and speed basting {page 33}.

The ^ setting is used for straight-stretch stitching and Flexi-Stitch patterns. For infor mation on Flexi-Stitch patterns and straightstretch stitching, see pages 25 and 52.

Stitch Control Dial

• To set stitch control, turn dial until setting

desired is under the red line.

For reverse stitching, simply press reversestitch lever all the way down and hold in place.

Release lever for forward stitching.

REGULATING PRESSURE

The pressure dial regulates the pressure that

the presser foot exerts on the fabric. Correct

pressure is important because it means fabric feeds smoothly and evenly. The NORM (nor mal} setting Is an all-purpose setting that can

be used for sewing a wide variety of fabrics

of different weights and textures. Intermediate

notched settings, above and below NORM, are also provided. When you need extra con trol to sew very heavy fabric, use the MAX {maximum) setting.

Lower the presser foot before setting pressure.

♦ To increase pressure, turn dial from NORM

toward MAX.

• To decrease pressure, turn dial from NORM toward DARN.

♦ For darniing, set dial on DARN.

Decrease

Pressure Dial

Darning

Page 22

Needle-Thread Tension

REGULATING NEEDLE-THREAD TEN SION

The tension dial regulates the degree of ten

sion on your needle thread. Set it according to the type of thread and fabric you use. The numbers on the dial are for reference and eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings.

Correct tension is important because too much or too little will weaken your seams or cause your fabric to pucker. Be sure your machine is threaded correctly and make a test sample with the fabric and thread you plan to use, and examine it.

A perfect stitch will have the needle and bob

bin threads locked between the two layers of

fabric with no loops on top or bottom and no

puckers.

To Decrease Tension

♦ If the top stitches in your test sample look

loose, increase needle-thread tension by

turning the dial to a higher number.

♦ If the fabric puckers, decrease needle-

thread tension by turning the dial to a lower

number.

Page 23

sewing a seam

PIN BASTING

Pin basting is a time saver and can be used In place of hand basting when you are straight stitching seams in easy-to-handle fabric.

Use fine pins and place them so that:

• They are at right angles to the presser foot and just nip into the fabric at the stitching

line.

• They do not extend under both sides of the

presser foot. Never place pins on the under

side of the fabric in contact with the feed.

Pin Placement When Seam

and Hem Guide Is Not Used

Pin Placement

PLACING FABRIC

Most fabric can be placed under the presser foot by raising the presser-foot lifter to its normal up position. When placing bulky fab rics, such as coating, knit or terry cloth, or multiple fabric layers, you will find it conven ient to raise the presser-foot lifter to the highrise position. Hold lifter in position (since it does not lock) while placing fabric under the

presser foot Make sure the lifter is all the way

down before starting to sew.

Presser Foot Lifter Settings

Page 24

starting a Seam

Stitching a Seam

Guiding and Supporting Fabric

Applying Gentle Tension

STARTING A SEAM

1. With presser foot raised, turn hand wheel toward you to position needle in fabric about

1/2 inch (1.3cm) from starting edge.Lower

the presser foot.

2. Press reverse-stitch lever all the way down and hold in place. Backstitch to edge of

fabric for reinforcement.

3. Release reverse-stitch lever and stitch in

forward direction.

GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC

Most fabrics need only to be guided in front of the presser foot Some fabrics, however, re quire support while being stitched, as shown. These fabrics require using the straight stitch

presser foot.

CAUTION: Do not puli the fabric while you are

stitching as this may deflect the needle, caus- ing it to break,

• For filmy sheers, knits, tricot, etc., apply gentle tension by holding seam in front and

back of the presser foot.

Applying Firm Tension

♦ For stretch fabrics, apply firm tension front

and back when stitching in the same direc

tion as the stretch. For seams not on the stretch direction, stitch in the conventional

manner, guiding fabric in front of the presser

foot.

Page 25

KEEPING SEAMS STRAIGHT

To keep the seam straight, use one of the numbered guidelines on the needle plate. The numbers indicate distance, in eighths of an inch, from the needle. If you want a 5/8 inch f 1.6cm) seam, for example, line up your fabric with the number 5 guideline. Note that both number 5 guidelines (the most commonly used) are extended on the slide plate for your convenience: the crosslines serve as corner ing guides when stitching a square corner.

(9mm)

Vz"

(1.3cm)

(1.9cm)

(1.6cm)

TURNING SQUARE CORNERS

To turn a square corner 6/8 inch (1.6cm) from the fabric edge, you need not

measure or mark the seam. Simply use

the crosslines on the slide plate.

• tine up your fabric with right or left guideline 5 on the needle plate. Stitch seam, slowing speed as you approach corner.

Pivoting at Corner

• Stop stitching, with the needle down, when the bottom edge of the fabric

reaches the cornering crosslines on the

slide plate.

• Raise presser foot and turn fabric on

needle, bringing bottom edge of fabric in line with guideline 5.

• Lower the presser foot and stitch in new direction.

Fabric at Crosslines Fabric after Turning

Page 26

CURVED SEAMS

1. Use a fairly short stitch for elasticity and strength. For example, if you use a medium stitch length for straight seams, select a slightly shorter stitch length to stitch curved seams in the same fabric.

2, If you use the seam guide to guide stitch

ing, attach it at an angle so that the edge that is closer to the needle acts as a guide.

TO ATTACH SEAM GUIDE

Fasten seam guide by securing guide screw into hole provided for it in machine bed.

To adjust the seam guide, loosen the guide

screw and slide the guide to the required seam width. Then tighten the guide screw.

REINFORCING END OF SEAM

1. Stitch to the edge of the fabric,

2. Press reverse-stitch lever all the way down and hold in place. Backstitch approx

imately 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) to reinforce end

of seam. Release lever.

Reverse-Stitch

Lever

3. Raise needle to its highest position, raise the presser foot, and remove the fabric by drawing it to the back and left.

4. Cut threads on thread cutter at rear of

presser bar.

Ending a Seam

Cutting Threads

Page 27

4. ALL ABOUT ZIG-ZAG STITCHiiyG

two kinds of zig-zag stitches

The zig-zag stitches built into your machine

include basic zig-zag stitches and Flexi-Stitch patterns. In addition to the obviously decora

tive uses of these stitches, some also serve

practical purposes. Under the section called ‘‘Sewing the Professional Way’' beginning on

BASIC ZIG-ZAG STITCHES AND THEIR DIAL SETTINGS

page 47, you will find instructions for both decorative and practical uses of these stitches. All of the basic zig-zag stitches and some of the FiexhStitch patterns are charted below.

(When sewing Flexi-Stitch patterns, set speed range at SLOW.)

Stitch Pattern

Tfr

Solid Pyramid Stitch

Ball Stitch

Crescent Stitch

Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag

Y'YT'YT’Y'YTY'YY

Blindstitch

mmmmmmmmmmmm

Plain Zig-Zag Stitch

FLEXl-SmCH PATTERNS AND THEIR DIAL SETTiNGS

Pattern

Otal

Stitch

Width

Dial

1 -s

1-5

1 -5

Needle

Position

Dial

L A H

t A R

L A R

Stitch

Control

thru

FINE

thru

FINE

thru

FINE

6-20

S-20

thru

FINE

Stitch

Width

Dial

2-5

Stitch Pattern

Semaphore Stitch

Slant Overedge Stretch Stitchtt

Pattern

Dial

VVWVVVVVWVVVWW

Ric-Rac Stitchtt

AAAAAAAAAAAA

Overedge Stretch Stitch t

tSîîtch width must be set at 5 when using the Overedge Foot (see page S4).

ttThis stitch is designed tor strength and permanence and cannot be readily ripped out

without risk of fabric dam^age.

Position

Dial

L A R

t A R

L A R

Stitch

Control

Page 28

adjusting dials

SETTING PATTERN DIAL

Before moving the dial, make sure buttonhole dial is in OFF position and needle is above fabric.

Push the pattern dial in and turn it until de sired zig-zag stitch pattern is between the red lines.

To produce a Flexi-Stitch pattern, the stitch

control dial must be turned to the ^ setting.

: X • ••y-:

»llj....

i ■: y

{

i ,,s

TTWM

........

.....

Tsffsi?

• Push in

• Rotate

• Release

........

Buttonhole Dial in OFF Position

ADJUSTING STITCH PLACEMENT

Before moving needle position dial, move stitch width dial to 5, and make sure buttonhole dial is in OFF position and needle is above fabric.

Needle position setting A places the needle in center stitching position. Settings t and B place the needle in left and right stitching positions at stitch widths less than 5.

Setting A is used most often. Settings L and R are for special placement of stitching. For example, an B setting is required for twostep buttonholing and an L setting for button sewing and twin-needle work. An L or R set ting can be used to place narrow zig-zag stitching to the left or right of center in decorative work.

To adjust stitch placement, turn needle posi tion dial until desired setting is aligned with red line.

t A «

Adjusting Stitch Piacement

i. A R

Left Needle Position

Center Needle Position

Right Needle Positron

Page 29

ADJUSTING WIDTH OF DESIGN

Before moving dial, make sure needle is above the fabric.

To produce a zig-zag stitch, turn the stitch width dial to any setting between 1 and 5. The higher the number, the wider your stitch will be, A stitch width setting of 2 or more is recommended for Flexi-Stitch patterns.

Adjusims Width of Design

ADJUSTING

NEEDLE-THREAD TEN-

SION

Zig-Zag stitching usually requires less nee dle-thread tension than straight stitching, 3e sure your mao'mne is threaded correctly and

make a test sample with the fabric and thread you plan to use so that you can adjust tension to suit the stitch pattern you have chosen. The stitches should lie fiat against the fabric with out causing the fabric to pucker.

If the stitches are not flat and the fabric is

puckered, lower the needle-thread tension by turning the dial to a lower num^ber.

ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH

Any numbered stitch length setting will give you an open zig-zag stitch of the pattern you select except Flexi-Stitch patterns. As you rotate the stitch control dial away from the FINE setting (towards the numbered settings), your stitches becomie miore open, or farther apart. The symbol on the dial above the num bered settings designates the FINE stitch area and is used for the adjustment of zig-zag satin stitching (see page 28 for specific in structions).

To produce a Flexi-Stitch pattern (refer to stitch pattern chart on page 25), the stitch control dial must be set on the symbol. Simply turn the dial downward until the sym bol is centered under the red line. No further adjustment is necessary.

Correct

When using the ^ setting of the stitch control, you cannot backstitch the stitch pattern.

For instructions on using basting stitch, see page 33.

Fiexi-Stitch Pattern Setting

Stitch Controi Dial

Page 30

satin stitching

Satin stitching, a series of ciosefy spaced zig zag stitches that form a smooth, satin-iike sur face, is useful for both practical and decorative work. The plain zig-zag stitch, for example, is suitable for bar tacks and applique when closed up to form a satin stitch. The F/ex/-

Stitch patterns, however, have a single stitch length setting

stitched.

and cannot be satin-

Stitch Control in FINE Area

As the Dial is Rotated, Stitches Close Up

When you wish to produce a satin stitch, make

a test sample first so that you can adjust the stitch length and thread tension properly. Soft fabrics may require a backing to ensure firm satin stitching. Crisp lawn or organdy is suit able for this purpose. For best results use the special purpose foot.

DIAL SETTINGS

Pattern: Plain Zig-Zag I

Needle Position: A * Stitch Width: 2 to 5 Stitch Control: in FINE area General Purpose Needle Plate

Special Purpose Foot

Adjusting Stitch Length

1. Set stitch control dial at bottom of FINE area.

Adjusting Thread Tension

Correct

2. Run machine at SLOW speed.

3. Gradually turn dial downward until stitches are closely spaced and form a sm-ooth sur face.

Adjusting Thread Tension

Satin stitching requires less tension than straight stitching or open zig-zag stitching.

furthermore, the wider the satin stitch, the lighter the tension on the thread must be. No

tice the stitching on your sample, ff the fabric

is puckered, lower the needle-thread tension by turning the tension dial to a lower number.

Page 31

5. TWiiy-iyEEDLE STITCHiiyG

By using a twin needle, you can produce two either a straight stitch or one of the decorative parallel, closely spaced lines of decorative stitch patterns, stitching simultaneously. You can choose

STITCH PATTERNS AND THEIR DIAL SETTINGS

To produce patterns at right use settings shown below

Pattern Dial

Stitch Width Dial

Needle Position Diai

Stitch Control

tThis sîiich is designed for strength and permanence and cannot de readily ripped out without risk of fabric damage.

FINE

AREA

1S-20

15-ao

inserting the twin needle

Before inserting the twin needle, place the needle position selector at L and stitch width selector at A •

1. Raise needle to its highest position.

2. Loosen needle-clamp screw and remove single needle.

3. Insert twin needle into clamp with the flat side of shank to the back.

4. Push needle up as far as it will go and tighten needle-clamp screw.

Best twin-needle stitching results are obtained with No.

SO mercerized cotton thread

Page 32

threading the needle

1, Thread as for one-needle stitching except:

♦ Pass thread between center and back

tension discs, through the thread guide above the needle, and through right eye of needle.

/■

2. Insert detachable vertical spool pin into hole provided for it in top cover of machine.

3. Place spool of thread on detachable spool pin and thread as for one-needle stitching

except:

* Pass thread between center and front

tension discs and through ¡eft eye of needle, omitting the thread guide above

the needle.

Passing Thread Between Tension Discs

Twin-needle Threading

Page 33

dial settings

STRAIGHT STITCHING WITH A TWIN NEEDLE

♦ Pattern: Straight Stitch

♦ Stitch W\6Xh: A ♦ NeecHe Position; t or A only

♦ Stitch Control: To suit design ♦ General Purpose Needle Plate ♦ General Purpose Foot

í¿:_ -

.......

.....

mrnrnvfmn

i. ;k

1 r; -v.

ZIG-ZAG STITCHING WITH A TWIN NEEDLE

♦ Pattern: Any Zig-Zag pattern t

Note: For decorative twin-needle stitching,

using a Fiexi-Stitch pattern, set stitch control at ÚÍ, and use the SLOW speed range.

♦ Stitch Width; 2 (Do not exceed this setting) ♦ Needle Position: Lonly ♦ Stitch Control; To suit design

♦ General Purpose Needle Plate ♦ General Purpose Foot (for open stitching) ♦ Special Purpose Foot (for satin stitching)

Í i ■ = I

tFxciuding basting stitch which cannot be produced with a twin needle.

Page 34

Turning a Corner with a Twin-Needle

turning a square corner

Geometric twin-needle oeslgns are easy to ac complish with the plain zig-zag stitch and the special purpose foot when you know how to turn a square corner. 3e sure to practice turn ing in right and left directions.

• Mark or baste a stitching guideline on the fabric.

• Stitch to the corner and stop with the needle

in the fabric on the inside of the corner.

• Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric

halfway around the corner {needle in fab ric). Lower the foot and take one stitch by turning the hand wheel. Continue to turn the hand wheel until needle is about to enter fabric on the inside of the corner,

• Raise the foot again and complete the fabric turn, positioning the work under the foot so that the needle will enter the inside corner needle hole a second time.

• Lower the foot and continue stitching in the new direction.

Turn Fabric Halfway Around Corner

Complete Fabric Turn

Page 35

6. TEMPORARY STITCHING

speed basting

With the basting stitch that is built into your sewing machine, you can produce basting stitches of any length up to two inches (5cm). Thus, you can choose just the right length for your sewing job, considering the weight of your fabric and how securely the pieces need to be held together. A few of the many sewing jobs for which you will find speed basting par ticularly useful are:

• Joining seams for trial fittings

• Marking construction guidelines

• Basting pleats, hems and seams

DIAL SETTiNGS AND ACCESSORIES

PATTERN SELECTOR

Ш1,

|2«3 4. $

................

STITCH WIDTH

• Pattern: Basting Stitch |

• Stitch Width: 5 only

• Needle Position: only

• Stitch Control: Any setting thru FINE

• Speed: In SLOW range

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

Stitch Length

The stitch-control dial regulates the length of

basting stitches, but because the basting disc changes the interval at which the needle en ters the fabric, the numbers on the dial no

longer represent stitches per inch or stitch

length in millimeters. The settings of the control dial and the ap

proximate length of the basting stitches they

produce are illustrated. The very short stitches

produced in the triangle at the top of the FINE area are used to secure the beginning and ending of a line of basting.

Foot

Dmi Settings

STITCH CONTROL '

^ frn Щ

; :

5 43

i 1 5 i

i i

: 4

2 Ш

General Purpose

Needle Plate

■« {6ram)

----------

1/2"'(1,3cm)----- 20

V'{2.5cm}

-------

1 i/2'MS.8cm)—

2" iscm)

‘ 10

Page 36

Thread Tension

Machine basting requires a light needle-

thread tension. The longer the stitch, the lighter

the tension needs to be. When tension is cor

rectly adjusted, stitches up to 1/2 inch (1,3cm) long should He flat in firm fabrics. If

stitches are more than 1/2 inch (1.3cm) long,

place tension on the fabric by holding it in front and back of the presser foot, as you sew, to prevent pucker.

PREPARATION

Thread the machine and fill the bobbin in the

usual way. Select needle and thread accord

ing to your fabric: mercerized cotton threads are particularly recommended. Choose a thread color to contrast with your fabric so

that it can be seen easily. Make sure the

general purpose foot and general purpose nee

dle plate are on the machine and the needle is in its highest position.

PROCEDURE

1. Set stitch control for a short stitch in the triangle at the top of the FINE area on the dial. Place work under the needle, lower the presser foot, and take a few stitches to

position and secure basting start.

2. Reset stitch control dial for the length of

basting stitch desired (stitches less than 1

inch (2.5cm) long are recommended for

seam basting) and proceed as for regular sewing. Stitch slowly, supporting the fabric in front and back of the presser foot if stitches are more than 1/2 inch (l.3cm) long.

3. To secure the end of basting, turn dial downward for a short stitch in the FINE area and take a few stitches.

To avoid pressing marks, remove basting stitches as soon as they have served their purpose.

Page 37

chainstítching

Single-thread chainstítching looks like regular straight stitching on top but is a series of in terlocking loops on the underside of the fabric.

The stitches are produced by the needle thread alone so you do not need a bobbin thread or a bobbin. Because the stitches are formed by a single thread, the interlocked

loops unravel easily, allowing the entire line of stitching to be removed with just a pull on the thread end. Also, the loop formation of the stitches makes them less taut than regular straight stitches. That’s what makes chainstitching flexible.

Here are a few of the many sewing jobs for which you will find chainstitching useful.

♦ Sewing temporary hems and tucks to extend

the life of —

Children’s clothes

Curtains and linings that might shrink

♦ Hemming curtains and draperies that may

need to be altered.

• Attaching woven and stretch hem tape.

• Making stay chains {ftench tacks) to

anchor linings or belt carriers to hold belts

in place.

• Fastening remiovable trimming — Fur collars

White collars and cuffs

* Basting for trial fittings.

Insert Chainstitch Needle Plate

PREPARATION

(See page 5 for Chainstitch Fittings)

Make sure needle is at its highest point,

1. Raise presser foot, open slide plate, and

remove bobbin.

2. Remove needle plate and position chainstitch needle plate over pins from front.

3. Insert bobbin case cover in bobbin case with flat edge toward the front as illustrated. Snap latch down and close slide plate.

4. Open face plate and slip chainstitch thread guide into place. Close face plate.

5. Thread your machine in the usual way except pass thread from take-up lever through self-threading eyelet in the chainstitch thread guide.

Select needle and thread according to your fabric.

Page 38

SEWING A CHAINSTITCH SEAM

• P^XtQtn: Straight Stitch ^

• Stitch Width:

• Needle Position; A

• Stitch Control: 10 to 12 (approximately 2 to 2.5) only

• Chainstitch Needle Plate

• Straight Stitch Foot or General Purpose Foot

• Chainstitch Thread Guide

• Bobbin Case Cover

Starting and Chaining Off

1. Turn hand wheel toward you to position needle in very edge of fabric. Lower the

presserfoot

2. Start the machine and stitch to end of seam. Continue stitching beyond edge of fabric, making a chain from one to tv^o in ches {2.5cm to 5cm) long. Do not attempt to stitch in reverse. Chainstitching can be sev^n in a forward direction only .

Stitch Starting Point after Chaining Off

Releasing Chain from IVIachine

3. Cut chain between fabric and presser foot.

4. Check and adjust tension, if required, as instructed on page 38. After chaining off,

start a new line of stitching by raising the

presser foot slightly and positioning the

fabric in front of the needle. Lower the presser foot and stitch to end of seam.

Releasing the Chain from the Machine

When you finish chainstitching, the chain can easily be removed from the machine.

1. Raise presser foot

2. Hold end of chain with your left hand.

3; Turn hand wheel slowly toward you with

your right hand until needle is all the way down in the needle hole.

4. Then turn hand wheel slowly away from you, pulling gently on chain, which will un

ravel as needle rises.

Page 39

Ending Stitching in Fabric

Draw Loop Down to Left of Foot

Ending the Stitching in the Fabric

Occasionaily, you may need to end your stitch ing in the fabric. Temporary hems and tucks,

for example, can be completed in this way:

• Stop stitching at desired point. Make sure

take-up Sever is in its highest position.

• Raise presser foot.

1. Puli the thread through the take-up Sever, forming a loop between the take-up lever and chainstitch thread guide.

2. Pass scissors under the presser foot so as to pull the slack thread down and out to form a loop at left of foot.

3. Hold the loop and cut the thread close to

the end of the stitching.

4. Remove fabric from machine by pulling it straight back, away from you. The thread end will puli through the fabric to the under side and form a temporary lock.

• If you wish to secure this temporary lock, fold the thread end back over the chain and fasten with hand stitching.

Page 40

Too Little

ADJUSTING THREAD TENSION

Adjust thread tension. Chalnstltchlng re quires approximately the same needle-thread

tension as regular straight stitching, provided the same kind of thread is used. When the tension is correctly adjusted, the chain will be flat and smooth. Puckers in the fabric and qlnched loops indicate too much tension; turn tension dial to a lower number. Large, irregu lar loops indicate too little tension; turn ten sion dial to a higher number.

REMOVING THE STITCHING

Chainstitching can be removed smoothly and cleanly in seconds by freeing the last stitch formed in the fabric.

1. Simply cut the last loop formed on the un derside of the fabric.

2. Pick up the free thread end from the top

surface of the fabric.

3. Pull the free thread end, removing entire

line of stitching,

REMOVING CHAINSTITCH ACCESSORIES

Release thread chain from machine and make sure needle is at its highest point.

1. Open slide plate and remove bobbin case

cover.

2. Replace bobbin and snap down latch,

3. Remove needle plate by pressing up and lifting it out toward you.

4. Replace general purpose or straight stitch needle plate.

5. Open face plate and remove chainstitch

thread guide. Close face plate.

Removing Needle Plate

Page 41

7. BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES

buttons

decrease stitch width, if necessary, so that

• Pattern: Plain Zig-Zag |

• Stitch Width; A and 4 or to suit button ♦ Needle Position: L # Feed Cover Plate ♦ Sutton Foot

The space between the holes in the button determines stitch width settings. The A set ting must always be used to position the but ton and to fasten stitching. For buttons with standard hole spacing, settings A and 4 are

usually satisfactory. For buttons with unusual hole spacing, use setting A and increase or

decrease the width setting (4) as necessary.

1. Position button under button foot and lower the needle into center of left hole. Lower the foot. Turn hand wheel toward you until the needle rises out of the button and is

just above the foot.

2, Set stitch width at 4. Turn hand wheel

toward you until needle is just above the

right hole of the button. Increase or

needle will enter the right hole. Take six or more zig-zag stitches at this setting. End on left side.

3. To fasten stitching, return to stitch width setting A sind take about three stitches.

FORMING A THREAD SHANK

Buttons sewn on coats and jackets should have a thread shank to make them stand away

from the fabric. To form a thread shank, sew

over the blade of a regular machine needle.

• Position button and lower button foot. Place

needle in groove of foot so that point enters

the hole in the foot. The farther in you push

the needle, the longer the shank will be.

• After stitching, remove needle from groove.

Remove work from under presser foot, cut ting threads about six inches (I5cm) from fabric. Pull needle-thread ends to back of button and form a firm shank between but ton and fabric by winding threads tightly around attaching stitches. Tie thread ends securely.

ìiàiAàiàmmtéiiÉikiéiàM

jrrrrm*

4 ■■■■■'

forming Thread Shank

Pulf Needle Threads

to Back of Button

Thread Shank Completed

Page 42

buttonholes

Center Line

Hound-End Buttonhole

Bar-Tack Buttonhole

Finished Edge of Garment

Diameter of Button

Horizontal Placement

on Crosswise Grain

You have a choice between two buttonhole styles and two buttonhole-making methods:

round-end buttonholes made with the built-in

buttonhole system of your machine and bar-

tack buttonholes with square ends made man

ually in four steps. Round-end buttonhoies can be made in light- and medium-weight fabric; bar-tack buttonholes are best in lightweight

fabric.

BUTTOMHOLE POSITION

Accurate guidelines are essential to keep but tonholes at a uniform distance from the edge of the garment, evenly spaced, and on the grain of the material.

1. Mark the center line of the garment. This guideline can be made by hand basting or

machine speed basting. The space from the

center line to the finished edge of the gar

ment must be at least equal to three-quar

ters the diameter of the button. With this spacing, the button will not extend beyond the edge when the garment is buttoned. Make sure that the center line marking fol lows a lengthwise fabric thread.

2. Mark a position guideline for each button hole.

Vertical Placement on

Lengthwise Grain

• Horizontal buttonholes are placed to ex

tend 1/8 inch {3mm) beyond the center

line of the garment, as illustrated, so that

the buttons will be in the center of the

figure when the garment is fastened, Horizontai buttonhole guidelines should

follow a crosswise fabric thread and be

longer than the finished length of the but

tonhole. Mark ends of each buttonhole vertically.

• Vertical buttonholes are placed so that

the center line of the garment is in the

center of the buttonhole, as illustrated. Mark the ends of each buttonhole hori

zontally across the center line basting and use the center line marking as the buttonhole guide when stitching.

Page 43

BUTTONHOLE LENGTH

A buttonhole length should be just long enough to allow the button to slip through the opening without stretching it. You can estimate the

proper buttonhole length by measuring the width plus the thickness of the button. To make sure the measurement is correct, cut a slit in a scrap of fabric the diameter of the button you intend to use. Increase length of opening until button slips through easily. This test is

partioularly advisable for buttons of unusual shape or thickness.

BUTTONHOLE INTERFACING

It is almost always wise to use an interfacing

in the buttonhole area. An interfacing holds the fabric firmly so that a neat buttonhole may be stitched and keeps the finished buttonhole

in shape. Interfacing is essential when the fab ric is loosely woven or is a crepe or knit that stretches easily.

When planning your garment, remember that both round-end and bar-tack buttonholes are stitched through three thicknesses of fabric

(garment, interfacing and facing) after the fac ing has been attached.

TEST SAMPLE

Always make a test buttonhole in a sample of your fabric to determine suitability of button

hole style, buttonholing method, and machine

settings. Be sure to duplicate the number of

fabric layers in the garment and include inter facing if appropriate. Remember, too, that loosely woven and medium-weight fabrics re quire buttonholes with wider side stitching

than firmly woven or lightweight fabrics. Fin ally, check to see that the opening for the but ton can be cut without damaging buttonhole

stitching.

CUTTING BUTTON OPENING

Place a pin across the cutting space at each

end of the buttonhole to protect end stitching.

Use a pair of small, sharp scissors to cut the

button opening. Insert blade in center of but tonhole cutting space and cut from this point in either direction.

Testing Suttonhote Length

Page 44

ROUND-END BUTTONHOLES

To stitch a buttonhole, set ail dials on red symbols.

• Attach buttonhole foot

« Use general purpose needle plate

PATTERN SELECTOR

NEEDLE POSITION

rrvmm

STITCH WiDTH

Buttonhole Length

First, decide how long the button opening must

be. This will depend on the diameter and thick ness of the button as explained on page 41. Then add 1 /8 inch (3mm) for end stitching (1 /16

inch or 1.5mm for each end of the buttonhole). This end-stitching allowance is approximate and should be increased slightly if the but tonhole is to be stitched twice. Fabric thick ness and thread diameter will also vary endstitching depths, so be sure to check measure ments by making a test buttonhole. Mark but tonhole position and length on fabric. See page 40 for placement information.

STITCH

8UTTOHHOLE

CONTROL

Make sure buttonhoie diaf

i$ m OFF position when

you set Of reset stitch con-

trol dial on red

Buttonhole

Length Guide

Markings

Sutton Opening !

Length of

Button

Opening

Buttonhole

Stitching

Buttonhole Stitch Width

The stitch width setting, designated by red

— symbol, is an approximate setting; use it to make your test buttonhole. You may need

to increase or decrease stitch width slightly to

suit your fabric, to arrive at more pleasing but

tonhole proportions, or to change the width of

the buttonhole cutting space. When making sUtch width adjustments, remember that as stitch width is increased, the cutting space in

the center of the buttonhole is decreased.

Page 45

--------7-------Finished Edge of Garment

IP^l

Buttonhole Position I ; Guideline

Center

Une of :

End Buttonhole Guidelines

Garment

Starting Position

Procedure

• Place garment under buttonhole foot so that buttonhole position marking is centered.

• Align center gauge line of buttonhole foot

with center line of garment.

• Lower the presser foot, and rotate button

hole dial downward until symbol for step 1

• is centered under red line (cuck indicates

engagement).

• Start machine and let it complete step 1 of the buttonholing cycle; that is, stitching across the end and down the left side of

buttonhole. Stop machine when front gauge

Une on buttonhole foot reaches end-of-buU tonhole guideline on garment,

End of Buttonhole ^ ^

Guidelines

____

____________

Step 1 Dial

Setting

Presser Foot Position

at End of Step 1

St Tr 3* ÏS .ilLce«.;

Buttonhole Guidelines

Line of Garment

• Rotate buttonhole dial downward until sym bol for step 2 is centered under red line.

• Start machine and let it com.plete step 2 of the buttonholing cycle: that is, stitching across the end and up the right side of but

tonhole, Stop machine when back gauge line on buttonhole foot is in fine with the end-of-buttonhole guideline on garment.

Take one or two stitches if necessary to overlap stitching at starting point. For a smooth, satiny appearance and greater dur ability, stitch around the buttonhole a sec ond time by

repeating the two-step dial se

quence.

• Remove work from machine, clip thread ends and cut button opening with sharp

scissors.

When buttonholes are completed, reset dials for regular sewing. Make sure buttonhole dial

is in OFF position.

Step 2 Dial

Setting

■

'“'11

Off Dial Position at End of Step 2

Presser Foot Position

at End of Step 2

End of Buttonhole Guideline

”\.............

Finished Buttonhole

Stitching

......

End of Buttonhole Guideline

Center Line of Garment

Page 46

BAR-TACK BUTTONHOLES

• Pattern; Plain Zig-Zag |

• Stitch Width: 2% and 5 or to suit fabric

• Needle Position: L

• Stitch Control: In FINE area

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• Special Purpose Foot (Only)

Marking Lines

Always make a test buttonhoie on a sample of your fabric. Be sure to duplicate the thickness of the garment and include interfacing if ap

propriate.

BUTTONHOLE LENGTH

First decide how long the opening needs to be. This will depend on the diameter and thickness of the button. To find the right length, cut a small slit in a scrap of your fabric and gradually enlarge it until the button slips through easily. Then add at least 1/8 inch or 3mm (1/16 inch, or 1.5mm for each bar tack, the closing at each end of buttonhoie), and mark the fabric as il

lustrated. This bar-tack measurement is ap

proximate; on some buttonholes, you may need to increase it to arrive at pleasing proportions.

STiTCH WIDTH SETTINGS

Next, determine the two stitch width settings

that you wiii need: one for side stitching and

one for bar tacks. Settings 2% and 5 are il lustrated below, although other combinations may be used, as long as combined widths of side stitching does not exceed the width of the bar tacks.

Length of

Cutting Space

A ^ 3 A S

Selector

BÌ2VZ

Bar Tacks and Side Stitching

1 { (2-3 A J

mrTTrm

. A R

............................

Tmmr

Selector

atS

Bimsmchim

BarTacks

Page 47

PROCEDURE FOR MAKING

BAR-TACK BUTTONHOLES

With needle position dial at L, set stitch width

dial on 2% for side stitching of buttonhole.

Place work under needle, aligning center mark

ing of buttonhole with slot in the presser foot.

Side Stitching: Position needie in fabric at

point A. Lower the foot and stitch to end of marking. Leave needle in fabric at point B. Raise the foot and pivot work on needie. Lower

the foot. Take one stitch without changing width setting, bring needle to point C.

Bar Tack: Adjust stitch width for bar tacks and

take at least six stitches. Stop at point D.

¡¡¡¡^

m inimiiiiE

Müiillliäiiuiaj

—

......

.....

»"■{............

j A,

Side Stitching

M-

Side Stitching: Readjust stitch width for side

stitching. Complete work to point E. Leave

needle in fabric.

Final Bar Tack: Adjust stitch width for bar

tacks, and take at least six stitches ending at point F.

Fastening Stitch: To secure stitching, move

stitch width dial to A and take three stitches. Remove work, draw threads to underside, fasten and trim. Cut opening for button with sharp scissors.

mnmmm

Bar Tack

4 S :■

Side Stitching

wrdd

Final Bar Tack

Page 48

8. FREE-MOTlOñi STITCHiiyG

fn free-motion stitching, you sew without a presser foot and control fabric movement by means of an embroidery hoop. Bther a straight or a plain zig-zag stitch can be used. Because you can move the hoop in any direction — for

ward or backward, from side to side, or even

diagonally—free-motion stitching is extremely useful for embroidery designs. On the other hand, it is equally useful for darning.

If you are embroidering, you can vary the length of stitches simply by moving the hoop

faster or slower under the needle. The faster

you move the hoop, the longer the stitches will be. You can also vary the width of zig-zag stitches from wide to narrow by controlling the angle at which the hoop is placed and moved under the needle.

For darning, the embroidery hoop used in free-

miOtion stitching enables you to hold the fabric taut — a real advantage when your fabric is lightweight or soft and thus likely to pucker.

See page 67 for directions.

flower embroidery

Pattern: Plain Zig-Zag |

Stitch Width: 2 to 5 Needle Position: A Feed Cover Needle Plate No Presser Foot

PREPARATION

Trace design on right side of fabric. (If you

have designing skill, you will enjoy creating your own patterns; otherwise, you can buy at tractive transfer designs.) Place work in an embroidery hoop large enough to encompass the entire design, but small enough so that

hoop can be easily mianaged. Add an underlay

if fabric is soft. Remove presser foot (see page 10), and replace regular needle plate with the feed cover needle plate.

Completed Flower Cesign

PROCEDURE

1. Position work under needle and lower presser bar to engage tension.

2. Hold needle thread loosely and turn hand wheel toward you to bring bobbin thread up through fabric. Hold both thread ends and lower needle into fabric.

3. Stitch, outlining or filling in design with zig zag stitches. For a smooth, satiny surface,

place parallel stitches close together, mov ing hoop slowly and steadily. For an irregu lar texture, move the hoop more rapidly,

allowing some stitches to overlap.

A series of bar-tacks can be used to form spray-like leaves or flowers. This technique

adds variety and lightness to many designs.

Leaves and petals formed in this way may carry the thread from one bar tack to the next This carrying thread eliminates tying of the thread ends.

Page 49

S. SEWING THE PROFESSIONAL WAY

construction details

Attaching the Zipper Foot

ZIPPERS

At the notions counter in your Singer store, you will find many different kinds of zippers,

one of which will be just right for whatever you wish to sew. How the zipper is inserted will depend on the type of garment and the loca tion of the zipper. The zipper package will con tain easy-to-foilow instructions. And, if you use the zipper foot, you will find it easy to form an

even line of stitching close to the zipper.

Pattern: Straight Stitch ^

Stitch Width: A Needle Position: A Stitch Control: 10 to 15 (1.5 to 2,5mm) General Purpose or Straight Stitch Needle Plate

Zipper Foot

Attachmg the Zipper Foot

The zipper foot snaps onto the presser foot

shank in the same manner as Instructed on page 10.

When the zipper is to the right of the needle:

• Place the zipper foot under the presser foot shank and lower the presser bar to allow the shank to fit over the pin on the right side of the zipper foot, so that the needle will enter the

right notch in the foot. Press down on presser foot screw until foot snaps into place.

When the zipper is to the left of the needle:

• Place the zipper foot under the presser foot shank and lower the presser bar to allow the shank to fit over the pin on the left side of the zipper foot, so that the needle will enter the left notch in the foot. Press down on presser foot screw until foot snaps into place.

Zipper Foot to

Bight of Needle

Right Side

of Pin

Zipper Foot to Left of Needle

Page 50

ft/faking the Welting

CORDED SEAMS

The corded seam is a professional treatment for slipcovers, children's clothes, blouses, and

lingerie. To make a corded seam, make the welting first (or buy it ready*made at a notions counter), then stitch it into the seam.

Making a Corded Seam

• Pattern: Straight Stitch

• Stitch Width: A

• Needle Position: A

• Stitch Control: Slightly longer than for regular seaming

• General Purpose or Straight Stitch Needle Plate

• Zipper Foot

Making the Welting

1. Buy cable cord of desired size.

2. Cut bias strips of fabric to cover cord (width: three times the diameter of the cord plus

t -1 /4 inches or 3.2cm). !f it is necessary to sew strips together to obtain desired length, join on lengthwise fabric grain.

3. Fold bias fabric strip over cord, raw edges even.

4. Attach zipper foot for use on left side of

needle.

5. Lower the presser foot.

6. Stitch close to the cord (do not crowd stitch

ing against cord), pulling gently on the strip, both in front and in back of the zipper foot.

Stitching Welting into Seam

1. Attach zipper foot for use on right side of the needle so that the bulk of the fabric will fail to left.

2. Stitch welting to the right side of a single seam edge; guide the edge of the foot next

to the co,’'d but do not crowd.

3. Place the attached welting over the second

seam edge, and pin or baste together.

4. Place work under needle, with the first

stitching on top so that you can use it as a guide. Stitch, crowding foot against cord.

Page 51

DARTS

Darts can be made in the usual way on your sewing machine. Thai is, you begin stitching

at the wide end of the dart, stitch to the point, and then fasten the two thread ends.

However, thanks to the push-button bobbin, you can avoid the problem of fastening the thread ends by making a “continuous-thread” dart and stitching in the opposite direction. This method is partioularly useful for darts in sheer fabrics, where transparency requires a

neat, clean finish, it is also useful for darts

made on the right side of a garment as a style detail.

Regular Darts

• .Pattern: Straight Stitch Á

• Stitch Width: A

• Needle Position: A

• Stitch Control: About 12 (2) or to suit fabric

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose or Straight Stitch Foot

1. Stitch from the seam edge, tapering grad ually to the point.

2. Stitch beyond the fabric to form a thread chain 1 /2 (1.3cm) to 3/4 inch (1.9cm) long. Clip thread ends about two inches (5cm) from dart point.

3. Tie the thread ends into a single knot close to the stitching.

Contirtuous-Thread Darts

1. Set the machine as for regular darts.

2. Wind an empty bobbin with enough thread to make a single dart (usually less than one yard).

3. Close slide plate, and position the needle in the very edge of the fold, at the point of the basted or pinned dart.

4. Lower the presser foot.

5. Stitch carefully from the point to the wide end of the dart at the seam edge.

Remember to remove excess thread from bobbin before rewinding.

Starting to Stitch Continuous-Thread Dart

Continuous-Thread Dart

Page 52

BLiNDSTlTCH HEiWS

• Pattern: Srindststch «

• Stitch Width: 2 to 5 (to suit fabric)

• Needle Position: A or R

• Stitch Gontroi: 10 to 20 (approximately 1 to 2.5)

• Genera! Purpose Needie Plate

• General Purpose Foot

• Seam and Blindstitch Hem Guide

Blindstitching provides a curable hem finish that is aimost invisible. It is best suited to straight or slightly curved hems. Taped, bound,

turned, or unfinished hem edges can be bundstitched with equal ease. Slindstitching takes

a nttie practice, however, so make a test sam

ple first.

1. Mark, turn, and press hem in the usual way.

2. Baste a guideline 1 /4 inch (6mm) from top of hem edge.

3. With the work wrong side up. turn the hem under, creating a soft fold about 1/4 inch (6mmh from top of hem.

Blindstitch Hem

4. Place hem edge over feed of machine with bulk of fabric to the left

5. Screw seam and hem guide into hole at right of slide plate and adjust it over the right toe of the presser foot so that it rests next to the soft fold.

6. Stitch so that straight stitches fall on hem edge and sideward stitches pierce the soft

fold. While stitching, guide the fold evenly against edge of hem guide.

7. When stitching is completed, swing guide out of position before raising presser foot Remove basting stitch.

Basted Guideline

Blindstitchmg a Hem

Page 53

SEAMS IN FABRICS THAT RAVEL

Seam edges support the garment and should be given a durable finish if the fabric is likely to ravel. There are two ways of finishing seams in such fabrics: trimming seam edge or overedging. Make a test sample first to deter mine whether method No. 1 or method No. 2 best suits your fabrics.

Method — Trimmed Seam Finish

• Pattern: Plain Zig-Zag I or

Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag ;>

• Stitch Width: 4 or 5 ♦ Needle Position: A

♦ Stitch Control: 8 to 20 {1.3 to 3 mm) to suit

fabric

♦ General Purpose Needle Plate

* General PurposeFoot

1. Select the stitch pattern that best suits your fabric.

2. Adjust stitch width and stitch length to give the m;0st "open” stitch that will secure the fabric edge; avoid harsh over-stitching.

3. Place stitching near the edge of the seam allowance.

4. Trim seam edges evenly, as shown, after stitching is com»pleted.

Method — Overedged Seam Finish

• Pattern: Overedge Stitch 5

• Stitch Width; 5 only f

• Needle Position: A

• Stitch Control: ^

• Speed; in SLOW range

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• Overedge Foot

1. Adjust stitch width to suit your fabric.

Trimming Edges

2. Trim seam edges evenly.

3. Place stitching over the trimmed edge of the seam; allowance as illustrated.

f}f a narrower stitch width is desired, as for seam finishing of fine fabrics, use the general purpose foot in place of the

overedge foot.

Overedged Seam Finish

Page 54

sewing knit and stretch fabric

When you are sewing stretch fabrics, double-

knit, tricot or jersey, choose one of the stretch

patterns that build s-t-r-e-t-c-h into the seam. The table below will help you make the right selection.

STRETCH STITCH CHART

Stitch

Muiti-Stitch Zig-Zag

■i

Slant Overedge Stretch Stltchf

(See Stitch Pattern Chart on Page 25)

Blmdstitch

Remember to use a baihpoint (Yellow Sand) needle, Style 2045. in the machine, and in crease presser foot pressure when you are at

taching elastic or sewing a synthetic knit or

stretch fabric.

Where to Use

Attaching elastic and stretch lace — Linge rie and swimsuit construction — Girdle seams — Seam finishes — Casings and waistband finishes.

Flexible biindstitch hemming — Overcast seam finishing — Shell hems in lingerie.

Sweater and sv/imsuit construction — Over cast seams in bulky knits and stretch terry cloth — Attaching elastic and stretch lace — Edge finishes for seams, hems, and facings.

All-purpose stretch sewing — Lingerie seams

Plain Zig-Zag

— Attaching stay tapes — Seam finishing —

Edge finishing Attaching stretch lace.

Rlc-Rac Stltchf

(See Stitch Pattern Chart on Page 25)

Heavy-duty, all-purpose stretch sewing

Reversible topstitch applications.

Plain seams that s-t-r-e-t-c-h (press-open or

Straight Stretchf

Straight Stitch — Stitch Width A

Stitch Control on &

closed construction) — Crotch seaming —

Sleeve and gusset insertion — Flexible top

stitching — Swim and ski suit construction

— Attaching patch pockets — Repairing and

reinforcing seams.

Overedge Stretch

Overedge seams that stretch—Crotch seams —Waistband and seam finishes in shorts and

slacks — Ski-suit, snow-suit, and swimsuit

construction.

Chainstitch

Flexible basting plication.

Easy-off hem tape ap~

tThis stitch is designeci for strength snd permanence and cahnot be readiiy ripped out without risk of fahric damage.

Page 55

GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC

Most fabrics of stretch or knit construction

need only to be guided in front of the presser foot when you use one of the stretch stitches. Some fabrics — nylon tricot and elasticized fabrics, for example —do require support while being stitched.

• For nylon tricot and similar synthetic knits,

apply gentle tension by holding the seam in

front and back of the presser foot as you

sew.

• For elasticized fabric, stretch lace, and knits

with an unusual amount of elasticity, apply firm tension in front and back of the presser

foot to stretch the seam as the stitches are

being placed.

CAUTION: Do not pull the fabric while you are

stitching as this may deflect the needle, caus ing it to break.

FINISHES FOR HEMS AND FACINGS

Applying Gentle Tension

Pattern; Multi>Stitch Zig-Zag

Slant Overedge Stretch

Stitch Width: 5

Needle Position: A Stitch Control: 8 to 20 (1.3 to 3 mm.) for

Muiti-Stitch Zig-Zag or ¿ts for

Slant Overedge Stitch General Purpose Needle Plate General Purpose Foot

(see page 25)

Hem and facing edges in knit and stretch fab rics will be less apt to press through and mark when given a flat edge-finish. Edge finishing with the slant overedge stitch or miuiti-stitch zig-zag eliminates the bulk of turned-in edges and retains fabric flexibility.

1. Make a test sample to check thread tension and stitch length if you are using the multi stitch zig-zag,

2. Place stitching about 1/2 inch (1.3cm) from hem or facing edge.

3. Press after stitching and trim away excess fabric close to the stitching line.

Applying Firm Tension

Page 56

OVEREDGED SEAMS MOCKOVEREDGÍNG

• Pattern: Overecge Stretch ^

• Stitch Width; 5 oniy t

• Needle Position: A

• Stitch Control: ^

• Speed; in SLOW range

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• Overedge Foot

Seams in knit and stretch fabrics can be joined and finished in one operation when you

use the overedge stretch stitch.

Pattern: Slant Overedge di (see page 25) Stitch Width: 5 Needle Position: A Stitch Control:

Speed: In SLOW range General Purpose Needle Plate General Purpose Foot or Even Feed Foot

When it is not practical to overedge a seam because of the construction of the fabric, a mock overedge finish can be applied. This finish is appropriate for bulky knits, fine tri

Procedure

cots, and fabrics that curl or ravel.

Make a test sample before beginning gar- Procedure:

ment construction to test machine settings.

Be sure to duplicate the cut of the garment seam in your test, and use a ball-point (yellow band) needle if you are sewing a

synthetic knit fabric.

2. Cut and fit the garment in the regular way.

1. Make a test sample to check machine ad justments before beginning garment con struction.

2, Cut and fit the garment, allowing for 5/8 inch

(1.6cm) seam allowance. Baste seam line.

using a 5/8 inch (1.6cm) seam allowance. Baste seam line.

3. Place seam under the presser foot so that

3. Trim seam edge evenly to a scant 1/4 inch (6mm) from seam-line basting.

the straight stitches fall on the seam-line basting.

4. Place tnmmeô seam under the overedge foot so that the straight stitches fall on the basted seam line and zig-zag stitches fall over the seam edge.

Overedged Seam

tif 3 narrower stiicr: width is desired, as for overedging fine fabrics, use the general purpose foot in place of the

overedge foot.

4. Press after stitching and trim, away fabric to produce a narrow seam. When the seam

supports the garmient, omit the trimming

step.

Mock Overedging

Page 57

THE EVEN FEED FOOT

The Even Feed foot is a perfect aid for stitching difficu!t-to-feed fabrics such as checks and stripes, and fabrics that have a pile or nap or have a shiny surface. All these fabrics can be sewn without puckering and slipping.

Use It When Stitcfiing:

♦ Knits, stretch fabrics, synthetics

• Shiny fabrics — vinyls, patents, satins ♦ Checks, stripes, patterns

• Bonded fabrics ♦ Pilefabrics —velvets, fake furs,

brusheo fabrics

• Leather and leather-look fabrics ♦ Dungaree seams, welt and slot seams ♦ Belts, waistbands, and patch pockets

• Blanket binding and pleats

Do Not Use ft When:

• Speed Basting

Preparation

Ensure that all stripes and checks are cut out to match exactly and that the weave or grain of the fabric is “true". The Even Feed foot will not correct any inaccuracies in cutting or weaving. In some cases of very long or curved seams, it may be advisable to baste lightly by

hand before machining.

Matching Plaids and Stripes

Page 58

Sewing a Seam With the Even Feed Foot

* Position needle in fabric with a light touch

on the speed controUer.

Stitch: Straight 1 or Plain Zig-Zag preferred

(Do not use Speed Basting) Stitch Width: As required Needle Position: A Stitch Length: To suit application Speed: In SLOW range General Purpose Needle Plate (Only)

Even Feed Foot

Procedure:

• Attach the Even Feed foot (see page 10) and set machine for stitch desired,

• Line up fabric edges carefully at seam start

and secure with a pin,

• Draw needle and bobbin threads under foot

to back of machine.

• Raise presser-foct lifter to its high position and place work so that needle hole in foot is about 1/4 inch (6mm) in from starting edge of fabric.

• Lower foot firmly. ♦ Hold ends of needle and bobbin thread at

back of foot when you start to stitch.

♦ After just a few stitches, release thread ends

and remove pin used to secure fabric. Guide fabric lightly under foot. Do not over-handle.

For a reinforced sewing start, place work so that needle hole in foot is approximately 1/2

inch (12mm) in from starting edge of fabric; hold thread ends, as shown, and stitch in

reverse to edge of fabric. Then stitch fcrward. Where pattern matching has to be perfect, use

a slightly shorter stitch length than usual for

the fabric.

Topstitching

When topstitching smooth, shiny fabrics such

as vinyl patent, or textured fabrics such as imi tation skin, suede or leather, use a slightly longer stitch length than usual.

Attaching Pocket Fiap

Page 59

PLAIN STRETCH SEAMS

• Pattern: Straight Stitch ;

• Stitch Width: ^

• Needle Position; A

• Stitch Control: ^

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot or Even Feed Foot

When you use the straight stretch stitch to seam knit, stretch, and eiasticized fabric,

and strength are built in as the seam is being sewn. Because it is equally useful for closed or press-open seam con struction and will not break thread under stress, the straight stretch stitch is also good for seams that receive an unusual amount of strain when the garment is worn. For exam ple: crotch seaming, sleeve insertion, and construction seams in swimsuits.

Procedure

1. Make a test sample to determine the cor rect thread tension. Be sure to insert a

Yellow-Band needle in the machine if you

are stitching a synthetic knit fabric.

Stitch and guide fabric as you do for plain seams stitched with the regular straight stitch, letting the machine make the backand-forth stitches that give s-f-r-e-f-c-h to the seam. If fabric has an unusual amount of elasticity, it should be stitched under tension as instructed on page 53 (Guiding and Supporting Fabric).

3. Press seam as when using the regular straight stitch.

Straight Stretch Stitching

with Even Feed Foot

Page 60

hints on sewing special fabric

LEATHER^LOOK VlNYLf

Use masking tape or zipper adhesive tape instead of pins or basting to hold seams, zip pers and hems in place for stitching.

Stitch with a long stitch (setting of 8 to 10 or

2.5 to 3). A short stitch may cut the fabric.

Sew with a steady, even pace and stitch ac curately. Seams cannot be ripped out with out leaving needle marks in the fabric.

The shiny side of some vinyls tends to stick

to metal surfaces. Use a strip of tissue paper between the fabric and metal machine sur

faces to prevent this.

Reinforce button and buttonhole areas with interfacing. Bound buttonholes are the best choice for vinyls with knit backing.

Topstitching holds seamis and garment edges

smooth and flat, and adds a decorative note.

For sharp points on collars and lapels, take one or two stitches diagonally across the point to allow enough space to enclose the seam edge smoothly.

CIRÉ (WeMook Taffeta and Trlcot)t

• Do not use pins in any area of the garment that will be visible when completed.

• Use masking tape or zipper adhesive tape

instead of pins or basting to hold seams, zip pers and hems in place for stitching.

• Stitch accurately: seams cannot be ripped

out because needle marks remain in the fabric.

• Sew seams under gentle tension by holding fabric slightly taut at front and back of needle.

• Stitch ciré taffeta with a long stitch {setting of 8 to 10 or 2,6 to 3). Use an enclosed edge finish for seams and hems.

• Stitch ciré knits with a medium-length stitch

(setting of 1 2 or approximately 2) and use a

fine ball-point needle.

• Machine-worked buttonholes, as well as bound buttonholes can be made in ciré fab ric. Always use an interfacing and make sure the close zig-zag stitches do not cut the fabric.

Turning a Sharp Corner on Leather-Look Vinyl

tlhe Even Feed Foot is designed to aid in sewing this fabric.

Page 61

DEEP-PILE FABRICS (Fake Fur) f

• Pin, rather than baste, seams. P!ace pins at short Intervais at right angles to the seam

line. Pins with colored heads are easy to see

and remove.

• Sew in direction of nap.

• Stitch with a fairly long machine stitch (settings of 8 to 10 or approximately 2.5 to 3) and use poiyester/cotton thread in a size 14 or 16 style 2020 needle.

• As seam is stitched, smooth pile away from

seam allowance with a darning needle or upholstery pin,

• After stitching seam.s with a 5/8 inch (1,6cm) seam allowance, use small hand scissors to shear pile from entire seam allowance to reduce bulk.

• Stitch 1/4 inch (6mm) preshrunk tape into neckline and shoulder seams for stability and reinforcem^ent, or stitch with the straight

stretch stitch (stitch control set on 5^ )

• Leather and leather-look fabrics complement

fur fabrics: use them for bound buttonholes and easy button loops.

• Coat hems are less bulky if narrow and

finished with a 3 inch (7.6cm) fabric facing or

gros-grain ribbon.

•

• Slash through the center fold of darts and finger-press open or stitch with a narrow zig zag stitch and trim away excess fabric after stitching.

VELVET AND VELVETEEN f

♦ Use a light pressure dial setting to prevent

crushing pile.

♦ Mark and baste with silk thread.

♦ Use a Style 2020, size 11 needle and a fine

thread for seaming. “A’’ silk or nylon thread is recommended for sewing velvet and

velveteen.

♦ Always stitch in the direction of the nap.

Stitchm^ Deep-Pile

Fabrics {Fake Fur)

Pin or hanc-baste seams and sew under gen tle tension by holding fabric slightly taut at front and back of needle (see page 53). Ex tra-long straight seams may be machine basted with a long, wide zig-zag stitch.

To sew panne velvet, use a bail-point needle

(yellow banc) and a shorter-than-normal stitch length (settings of 12 to 1 5 or approx imately 1.5 to 2),

fThe £ven~Feed Foot is designed to aid in sewing t.nis fabric.

Page 62

Topstitching with Crescent Stitch

decorative touches

TOPSTITCHING

A practical, simple way to accent the lines of a dress or coat is to place one or more rows of stitching along coilars, iapets, facing edges,

pockets, seams, etc. For a tailored look, use

lines of regular straight stitching; sew them with buttonhole twist for added emphasis. For decorative interest, use a stitch pattern. To add firmness to hems and seams in knit and stretch garments, topstitch with the crescent stitch, {stitch control at any numbered setting through FINE, and stitch width at 1-5). The seam and hem guide will help you place the

rows of stitching accurately.

Shell Edging with the Blindstitoh

SHELL EDGING

Pattern: Blindstitch -« Stitch \A/icith: 3 to 5

Needle Position: A Stitch Control. 12 to 20 (1.3 to 2 mm)

General Purpose Needle Plate General Purpose Foot

On soft, fine fabrics, shell edging makes an attractive finish for narrow hems and bias folds.

1, Make a test on a sample of your fabric to

find the right thread tension, stitch length. and stitch width,

2. Place folded hem or bias fold (basted, if

necessary) under presser foot with hem or

fold toward the left.

3, Stitch slowly, guiding fabric so that the

sideward stitches do not pierce the folded edge.

Page 63

MONOGRAMS AND MOTIFS

Many decorative stitch patterns can be used for moncgrams and motifs — to add a personal touch to a blouse collar, for example, or for

initialing household linens. You can buy de signs or create them yourself to suit the stitch pattern you wish to use.

Very simple straight-Fme monograms can be

made with the plain zig-zag stitch, or you can create a motif by arranging individual pattern

units to form a design. (Detailed information on zig-zag stitch patterns and dial settings

begins on page 25.) When you use a decorative stitch pattern to

form a motif, you will want to start at the beginning of the pyramid, ball, or whatever pattern you have selected.

Finding Beginning of Pattern Unit

1. On a scrap of material, stitch until you

come to the end of a complete pattern unit. Now you are ready to start stitching at the beginning of the next unit.

Monogram in Plain Zig-Zag and Ball Stitch

2. Raise presser foot and remove scrap.

3. Position motif under needle, lower the

presser foot, and stitch.

Beginning of Pattern Unit

Pyramid

Line Monogram in Plain Zig-Zag Stitch

Pyramid Pattern Used in Motif

initial in Plain Zig-Zag and Bail Stitch

Page 64

BORDER DESIGNS

Border designs that add a decorative touch to wearing apparel and household Items can be created by combining different types of straight stitching and zig-zag stitching. Simple or elaborate, delicate or bold, they can be var ied to suit the application. Use them as you would a braid or to simulate horizontal, vertical or bias stripes on plain fabric.

Procedure

Mark or crease fabric for the center line of first row of stitching. If spacing between rows is not greater than 1 /2 inch (1,3cm), gauge additional

rows with the presser foot. If spacing is wider,

mark for each line of stitching. Use a backing of crisp lawn, organdy or organza and be sure to make a test sample on a swatch of your fabric to check stitch settings and thread tension.

APPLIQUE

Applique adds beauty and interest to clothing

and household linens. You can create your own design, trace a simple outline from a col oring book, or use a motif cut from a printed

fabric. Fabrics of like or different texture com

bine equally well. Use a closely spaced, fairly narrow zig-zag

stitch. Although you may vary stitch width to

accommodate fabric weave or texture, never

allow the stitch to be too wide.

When appliqueing, make a test sample to help you decide which of the following meXhode is

more appropriate for your fabric and design.

Preparation

♦ Baste applique design to fabric.

• Outline design with straight stitching (use a short stitch).

Border Design

ШХЬой #1—Trimming alter Stitching

♦ Remove basting and press.

• Attach special purpose foot and general

purpose needle plate.

Method #1

1. Set stitch width dial. Adjust stitch length in the FINE area of the stitch control.

2. Outline the entire design with applique stitching.

3. Cut away the fabric on the outer edges of the stitching with embroidery scissors.

Method #2

1. Trim outside edges close to straight stitch outline of design.

2. Set stitch width dial. Adjust stitch length in the FINE area of the stitch control

3. Overedge the design with satin stitching. This step will produce a smooth, lustrous finish that requires no additional trimming.

Page 65

SMOCKING

Smocking is a youthful decorative detail that

is particularly charming when used for a yoke, insert or band on baby clothes, little girls’

dresses, or lingerie. When worked by hand, smocking is a time-

consuming process. However, the heavystitched look, typical of hand work, can be stitched quickly and easily with your machine when you use Fiexi-Stitch patterns.

Procedure:

1. Space rows of straight stitching, 1/4 inch (6 mm) apart, on the crosswise fabric grain.

2. Pull up evenly for the amount of fullness desired.

3. Baste a strip of fabric directly under the

lines of gathering.

4. Stitch over and between rows of shirring with decorative stitching. Create your own design or adapt the one illustrated. Use

thread

fabric, depending on the effect desired,

that contrasts with or matches your

A test sample is always advisable to check stitch settings. Be sure to use the same fabric and degree of fullness you plan for your gar ment.

./■hi и

Smocked Band Accented

with Cording

Smocked Band Completed

Page 66

Drawn^Thread Work

DRAWN-THREAD WORK

Pattern: SHndstitch

Stitch Width: 2 to 3 Needie Position: A Stitch Control 15 to 20 (1.3 to 1.5 mm)

General Purpose Needle Plate General Purpose Foot or Special Purpose Foot

Drav^n-thread work is a simple decorative treatment that can be used to add interest to table linens, dresses, and blouses. It is accom

plished by drawing threads from plain-weave kbrics to form open-work bands and accent

ing the band edges with blindstitching. Choose a linen or linen-like fabric from which

threads can be easily, withdrawn.

Procedure:

1. Draw one (or more) threads from the fabric

to mark edges of open-work bands.

Drawn-Thread Channels

}. A. A ,\t * i A A A A A ^ A A ' A A A A A.A A < A a A A A ^ A V V V V y yv V y if '< y y V t y y » y V y i y y V y A y V y

' *A A A A ^ A. A A f >, A A A A.A.A.A » A A.A A A A A.A a A A A A 'v> V y-y ¥ •< Wy ¥ A y y < y » V ¥ ¥ V > ¥ y V > ¥ ¥ y y V V ¥ y ¥ Y ?

“A ^ A A 4 A A A A A .* A A A * A A-A A A A A A A A A A A A A ^ A A A a A A A A 4A A A

2. Stitch, in drawn-thread channels, placing

the fabric so that the straight stitches of

the blindstitch pattern are made in the

thread channel and the sideward stitches (or points) in the solid body of the fabric.

If the fabric is soft, stitch through an under lay of tissue paper.

3. After stitching is completed, draw remain

ing threads from* the fabric to form the open work between rows of stitching. Whenever stitching crosses threads that are to be

drawn, cut threads close to stitching be fore drawing them out.

To form a fringe, draw a thread to mark irlnge

depth. Stitch in drawn-thread channel (with fabric edge to the right). Ravel threads be

tween stitching and fabric edge.

Drawn-Work Detail with Fringed Edge

Page 67

keeping up appearances

Many zig-zag stitch patterns are just as useful

for mending as they are for creative sewing.

The nnufti-stitch zig-zag forms a firnn, flexible

bond that is ideal for repairing tears.

ATEAR

• Pattern: Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag >

• Needle Position: A

• Stitch Width: 2 to 5

• Stitch Control: About 20 (1.3 mm)

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

1. Trim ragged edges.

2. Place unaerlay on the wrong side of tear for reinforoement. (It is best not to baste or pin

the underlay, since you will be bringing the edges together in the next step.)

3. Stitch on the right side, bringing the edges

of the tear together. Shorten stitch length at ends and corners to give extra strength.

4. Trim underlay.

Tear Mended with Mwltl-Stitcti Zig-Zag

BLANKET BINDING

Often you can make an old blanket look almost new by replacing the binding.A zig-zag stitch

pattern such as the plain zig-zag or multistitch zig-zag or the semaphore Flexi-Stitch pattern may be used.

♦ Pattern: Desired zig-zag stitch (see above)

♦ Stitch Width: 5 ♦ Needle Position: A

• Stitch Control: ^ for r/ex/-Si/';ch pattern or 15 to 20 (1.3 to 1.5 mm)

• Pressure: NORM or less

* General Purpose Needle Plate

• Even Feed Foot

1. Make a sample to determine correct dial

settings. Reduce pressure on fabric and

increase stitch length, if necessary, so that blanket feeds freely.

2. Remove worn binding and baste new bind

ing securely in place.

3. Stitch, and remove basting.

Blanket Binding

Page 68

REPAIRING SEAMS

Breaks in pre$s~open garment seams can be repaired quickly and easiiy when you use the

straight stretch stitch (stitch pattern i , stitch width A and stitch control on ^ setting). This reinforced stitch is both strong and flex

ible. It is idea! for knit and stretch fabrics and particularly useful for repairing or strengthen ing curved seams or seams that will receive

strain when worn.

1. Make a test sample to check dial settings.

2. Remove loose thread along the break and press the seam edges together.

3. Re-stitch along original seam line, guiding

seam under presser foot without stretching fabric, letting the machine move the fabric to make the back-and-forth stitches that give s~t-r~e-t-c-h to the seam. Overlap stitching one inch (2.5 cm) at each end. Press seam open.

Seam Repair

Stretch Garment Repair

REPAIRING STRETCH GARMENTS

* Pattern: Plain Zig-Zag | ♦ Needle Position: A

• Stitch Width: 3 to 5 ♦ Stitch Control: 20 (1.3 mm) or to suit fabric

• General Purpose Needle Plate * General Purpose Foot

Seams and hems in stretch and elasticized garments retain their elasticity when stitched with the plain zig-zag stitch. This stitch is par ticularly effective when used in topstitch ap plications (as shown) or to overedge. Make a test sample to check dial settings.

Bar Tacks

Bar tacks, to reinforce points of strain, are

made with the plain zig-zag stitch at satin stitch length. Use them at pocket corners, to attach garters, secure shoulder straps, belt

loops and zipper openings.

Page 69

DARNING

Worn or torn spots on children's clothes, knits,

and household linens can be darned effort lessly and quickly with little practice. You may

choose to darn either with or without an e*m-

broidery hoop. When greater control is needed,

an embroidery hoop is usually best.

Without Embroidery Hoop

With Embroidery Hoop

• Pattern: Straight Stitch I

• Needle Position: A ♦ Stitch Width: A

♦ Stitch Control: in FINE area

• Feed Cover Needle Plate * No Presser Foot — Presser Bar: Lowered

Pattern: Straight Stitch Needle Position: A Stitch Width; A

• Stitch Control: 10 to 15 (1.5 to 2.5 mm]

• Pressure: DARN

• General Purpose Needle Plate

• General Purpose Foot

1. If area to be darned is open, baste an under lay in place.

2. Place area to be darned under presser foot; lower presser foot and start stitching, al

ternately drawing fabric toward you and pulling it gently away from you.

Continue this forward and backward motion

as you fill the area with parallel lines of stitching. For additional strength, cover area with crosswise lines of stitching.

1. Trim ragged edges from area to be darned.

2. Center worn section in embroidery hoop.

3. Position work under needle over feed cover plate and lov/er presser bar to engage ten

sion.

4. Hold needle thread loosely with left hand,

turn hand wheel over and draw bobbin threab up through fabric. Hold both threab

ends and lower needle into fabric.

5. Outline area to be darned with running

stitches for reinforcement.

6. Stitch across opening, moving hoop under needle at a slight angle from lower left to upper right Keep lines of stitching closely

spaced and even in length.

7. When opening is filled, cover area with crosswise lines of stitching.

N s,, i

Darning without Embroidery Hoop

Darning with Embroidery Hoop

Page 70

iO. FREE-ARM SEWING

Fabric handling, when sewing tubular and hard to reach garment areas, is simplified when you convert your Mode! 771 to free-arm

sewing. A few of the sewing Jobs for which you wifi find the free arm particularly useful are shown below and on pages 69 through 71.

You will discover many more for yourself.

To convert your machine for free-arm sewing,

simply press down on the corner of the hinged

plate as illustrated.

To convert your machine back to flat-surface

sewing, raise the hinged plate of the machine

until it snaps into fiat-surface position.

Press Down on Corner of Hinged Piate

BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS

Stitching buttonholes on a cuff or neckband is no longer a task when the free-arm

surface is used. Cuffs slip around the sewing surface without being pulled out of

shape, so you can see and handle the stitching area easily. For buttonholing, follow the instructions that start on page 40.

Page 71

SLEEVES

f tee-arm sewing takes the difficulty out of topstitching a sleeve. The armhole rotates

smoothly under the needle so that you can place stitching accurately. The extra con

trol afforded by the free-arm is especially helpful for topstitching flat-fell seams.

Badges, emblems and insignia of all sizes and shapes can be quickly attached to

shirts and uniforms by slipping sleeve or hard-to-reach area over the sewing surface.

Page 72

EDGE FINISHES

The free-arm surface makes it easy to finish sleeves, pant legs and waistlines. These circular garment areas rotate smoothly around the sewing surface, giving you full visibility and control as you blindstitch hems, attach elastic, or topstitch cuffs.

Page 73

DARNING AND MENDING

Knees, elbows and other areas of wear in children’s clothes, sweaters, jackets and shorts become readily accessible for darning, mending or patching when the freearm surface is used. The sewing surface fits inside the enclosed sleeve and leg areas, making it unnecessary to open seams or roll the garment. For darning, follow the instructions on радев? and refer to page65for mending information.

BAR TACKS

Bar tacks reinforce areas of strain and can be applied to ready-made garments, as well as to those sewn at home. Use the free-arm surface to avoid fabric bulk around the needle when you apply this detail to pockets, plackets, and waistlines.

Page 74

11. CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE

cleaning the machine

Your machine will serve you perfectly for many years if you take a few moments of your time to keep it clean. How often you will need to clean the machine will depend on how often you use it,

CAUTiON: Before cleaning your machine, dis connect power-line plug from electrical supply.

Remove lint or fluff from exposed parts. With a soft cloth, clean:

♦ Tension discs, presser ban and needle bar ♦ Take-up lever and thread guides ♦ Bobbin case (If there is a lot of lint in the

area, remove bobbin case for cleaning. See page 74 for instructions).

♦ Machine surface (If necessary, dampen the

cloth and use a mild soap.)

Open the face plate and clean area behind it with a brush.

Remove needle plate as instructed on page 11 and, using a brush, clean the rotating hook

area under the needle plate and slide plate.

After cleaning, apply only SINGER* oil at

points indicated below. Sew a few lines of stitching on a scrap of material to remove ex cess oil. SINGER oil is specially prepared and does not contain harmful deposits that can in terfere with the smooth action of precision

parts.

Approximately once every year, remove top and bottom covers as instructed on page 73, and clean and lubricate all moving or rotating

machine connections to ensure freedom of

movement and to protect metal parts from ex cessive wear. To determine which connec tions are moving or rotating, turn hand wheel slowly (by hand) while covers are removed.

Clean

and Oil

Page 75

removing covers, bobbin case, and bulb

CAUTION: Before removing covers, bobbin case, and light bulb, disconnect power-line

plug from your electrical supply.

REMOVING AND REPLACING

TOP COVER

Move take-up lever to a low point and lower the presser foot.

1. Loosen screw A completely, lift up right

end of top cover, and slide cover toward left and off machine.

2, Replace cover by positioning it on top of

arm with a slight overhang on left side; slide cover to the right until it locks in place. Replace and tighten screw A.

Removing and Replacing Cover

REMOVING AND REPLACING BOTTOM COVER

1. Disconnect machine plug from electrical

receptacle at right end of machine.

2. Tilt machine back and remove four screws shown at right. A rubber cushion will be

removed with one of the screws. Pull cover

toward you to remove.

3. Replace bottom cover by aligning screw holes in cover with screw holes in machine. Push cover against machine to snap it into place. Replace and tighten four screws.

Screws

Removing and Replacing Bottom Cover

Page 76

REMOVING THE BOBBIN CASE

Make sure needle is at its highest position.

1. Open slide plate and remove needle plate (see page 11 for instructions),

2. Remove bobbin. Keep bobbin push button in sewing position,

3. Swing position bracket latch toward you. Lift bracket and slide it to the right,

4. To remove bobbin case, twist case as

shown, and lift out.

REPLACING THE BOBBIN CASE

Make sure needle is at its highest position,

1, Keep bobbin push button in sewing posi

tion. Hold bobbin case by latch and, with

latch to right of needle, slip case in position

so that the groove engages hook channel,

2, Twist bobbin case as shown, until latch is

in center.

Push Position Bracket to Left

■■ BracketLatch

Replacing Bobbin Case

Swing Position Away From You

3. Push position bracket to left until it snaps down, locking bobbin case in place,

4, Swing position bracket latch away from you

to lock bracket in place,

5. Replace bobbin and snap latch down,

6. Replace needle plateand close slide plate.

Page 77

REPLACING THE SLIDE PLATE

You will not have any occasion to remove the slide plate. However, if it should accidentally

become disengaged from the machine, it is easily replaced.

• Raise the presser foot and make sure needle is in its highest position.

• Place slide plate in slide way with the front

edge close to, but not covering, the retain

ing spring (as shown).

• With a small screwdriver, lift each end of the

spring into each of the side grooves on the

underside of the plate.

• Draw the plate gently toward you and fully engage the spring.

Lift Retaining Spring '' into Slide Plate Grooves

• Close slide plate.

CHANGING THE LIGHT BULB

Caution: Before chmging fight bulb make

sure you have discorrnected power-fine plug from electrical outlet

Removing Bulb. With thumb of right

hand, push in and down on tab of light lens and lower the light bracket Oo not

attempt to unscrew the bulb. Press it up

into the socket and at the same time turn bulb over in direction shown to unlock the bulb pin.

Replacing the Slide Plate

Caution: Be sure to use a 15 watt bulb only.

Replacing Bulb. Press new bulb into socket, with bulb pin entering slot of socket, and turn it over in direction shown to lock bulb in position. Push entire as sembly up until it snaps in position.

Page 78

performance checklist

REMEMBER TO

• Turn on pov/er and light switch.

• Turn buttonhole dial to OFF position be

fore setting pattern dial needle position dial, or stitch width dial for any purpose^

• Remove all thread from bobbin before

rewinding.

• Fill empty bobbin ... in center needle position A .

.., before attaching accessories.

... before inserting twin needle.

• Close slide plate after winding bobbin,

• Make sure needle is out of fabric or

IF THREAD

♦ Is the machine properly threaded? ♦ Is spool holder pressed firmly against

thread spool?

♦ Is the needle securely tightened in the

needle clamp?

♦ Is the needle stmlghV>

above needle plate before turning dials.

Make sure stitch width does not exceed

the number 2 setting when a twin needle

is used.

Use a ball point Yellow Band needle to

attach elastic and sew nylon tricot, syn thetic doubleknits, and spandex.

Use high-lift presser bar setting to place heavy fabric under presser foot.

Sew at a moderate speed {SLOW speed

setting) when using the straight stretch stitch or Flex!-Stitch patterns.

BREAKS

♦ 1$ the needle-thread tension too tight?

♦ Is presser foot raised forbobbln winding?

♦ 1$ a moderate speed used for bobbin

winding?

♦ Are the bobbin halves evenly and se

curely screwed together?

♦ Is the thread suitable for the size of

needle and free of irregularities?

♦ Is the thread unwinding freely from the

spool?

if you have any questions, please write to:

Consumer Affairs Department

♦ Is the bobbin properly seated and se

cured by the latch In the bobbin case?

♦ 1$ the bobbin-case area free of lint and

loose thread ends?

Enjoy Sewing!

The Singer Company

321 First Street

Elizabeth, NJ. 07207

Page 79

your personal measurements

This chart will enable you to keep a record of your measurements. For perfect accuracy, ask a friend to

take your measurements,

1, Chest, entire (Take above bust and straight across back)...........................

2, Bust (Take over fullest part of bustline and straight across back)

3, Shoulder length (right)

4, Shoulder to shoulder (back) (Take from armhole to armhole at shoulder seam)

5, Back width (Take 3"-7cm-to 4''«*l0cm>*below shoulder seam at back armhole)

6, Backwalst length (Take from neckline to waistline, center)

7, Shoulder to bust, apex

8, Shoulder to waist, over apex...................................................................

9, Front chest (Take 3" -7cm- down from shoulder at armhole, and from armhole

to armhole)..................................................................................................

10. Waistline (Around natural waistline)............................................................

lla. Hipline (Entire, 7" -17cm- from waistline) ...............................................

llb. Hipline (Entire, 9" -22cm- from waistline)

.....................................................................

.................

.................................................................................

..................................................

...............

............

....

11a 11b

Page 80

12. SEWING AIDS

special accessories for special jobs

Sewing Aids have been designed to increase the versatility of your sewing machine and en able you to give your sewing that extra pro fessional touch* The ones described below are just a few of the complete selection available at your local Singer Sewing Center.

Darning and Embroidery Foot

Gathering Foot

The gathering foot can be used for evenly spaced shirring as well as for a single fine of gathering* This foot is used for straight stitch ing only.

Darning and Embroidery Foot No. 161875

This foot is recommended for all types of free motion work. It is ideal for embroidery* monogramming, and decorative designs because the transparent toe fully reveals the line of the design to be followed.

No. 161169

Professional* Buttonhoier

The Professional Buttonhoier sews six kinds of

buttonholes, plus eyelets* in a wide variety of

fabrics. You choose the style and length and

make perfect buttonholes every time.

N0*381116

Page 81

Quilting Foot

No. 160691

The quilting foot is especially well adapted to stitching lightly padded fabrics, it is excellent for the placement of straight stitching in block, floral, or scroll designs. This short, open foot permits following curved lines with ease and accuracy.

Ruffler

No. 161561

This accessory offers a simple, effective way to

make gathered and pleated ruffles. The ruffler is used for straight stitching only.

Binder Foot

No. 81200

The binder foot is used to apply ready-made

bias tape or unfolded bias binding to an unfin ished edge. It can also be useful for binding seam edges that might ravel.

Tucker

No, 161226

Tucks up to one inch can be stitched and marked in one operation by using the tucker.

Two adjustable scales are provided to gauge

tuck width and spacing.

Tucker

Page 82

INDEX

Accessories...................................................... 4

Adjusting Machine to Fabric

Appliqué

........................................................

.............................

Basting...................................................... 21,33

..............................................................

Speed Basting by Machine

Blindstitch Hems

........................................

...

....................

Bobbin ........................................................... 13

Raising Bobbin Thread

.........

.....................

Removing Bobbin...................................... 16

Removing Thread

............ —

...

................. . 16

Replacing an Empty Bobbin..................... 16

Replacing a Wound Bobbin Winding

Bobbin Case

......................................................

.................................................

........................

17 14 74

Built-in Disc Patterns ..................................... 25

Buttonhole Dial............................................. 3> 43

Buttonholes

...................................................

Bar-Tack...................................................... 44

Round-End ............................................... 42

Buttons .......................................................... 39

Caring for your Sewing Machine

......

............

Chainstitching............................................... 35

Choosing Fittings ...........................................

Choosing Needle and Thread

.........................

Darning ......................................................... . 67

Darts............................................................... 49

Fabric, Thread, and Needle Table

Fashion AÌÓS

Floral Designs Free-Arm Sewing

Free-Motion Stitching

.................................................

................................................

..........................................

.....................................

Guiding and Supporting Fabric

Hints on Sewing Special Fabric ....................

...................

.....................

68 46 53

Ciré (Wet-Look Taffeta and Tricot).............. 58

Deep-Pile Fabrics (Fake Fur) Leather-Look Vinyl Velvet and Velveteen

.....................................

..................................

How to Start Sewing ....................................

Light Bulb Mending Monograms and Motifs Needle —...

Position

.....................................................

........

...........

.................................. 65

..................................

.................................................

............................................

.....................

3, 25, 26

59 15 75

4, 8

Replacement ................................................. 8

Threading ................................................... 12

Needle Plates

...............................................

5, 11

Chainstitch......................................... 5, 11,35

Changing Needle Plate

..............................

Feed Cover Plate ........................ 5, 11,39, 46

Straight Stitch General Purpose

Performance Checklist

............................................

.......................................

............

.....................

5, 11 5, 11

Power and Light Switch Presser Feet

.................................................

Button Foot...............................

Buttonhole Foot Changing Presser Feet Even Feed Foot

..................................

...........

...................................

..............................

.............................

5, 9, 54, 55

5, 8

5. 9, 39 5, 9, 42

Overedge Foot............................... 5, 9, 51,54

Special Purpose Foot Straight Stitch Foot General Purpose Foot Zipper Foot

.........................................

...............................

.....................................

................................

5, 9, 47

5, 9

5. 9 5, 8

Pressure Adjustm^ent ................................. 3, 19

Principal Parts.................................................. 3

Reverse Stitching ........................................ 3, 24

Satin Stitching Seam and Hem Guide

Seams — .....................................................

Chainstitch Corded

................................................

.................................

................................................

......................................................

4. 24 21

36 48

Curved......................................................... 24

In Fabrics that Ravel Plain Stretch

..........................................

..................................

Straight ..................................................... 22

Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabric...................... 52

Shell Edging................................................... 60

Slide Plate...................................................... 75

Spool Pin ..................................................... 4, 30

Stitch Control Dial Stitch Pattern Dial

..........................

3, 19, 27, 28

.................................

3, 25, 26

Stitch Width Dial ........................................ 3,27

Straight Stitching

Curved Seams Straight Seams Turning a Square Corner With a Twin Needle

Temporary Stitching

Chainstitching

.........................................

...........................................

............................

....................................

......................................

.............................................

22 23

33 35

Speed Basting............................................. 33

Tension Adjustment

For Zig-Zag Satin Stitching

Top Stitching

..................................................

Twin-Needle Stitching

Decorative Stitching Straight Stitching Threading the Needle Turning a Square Corner

Zig-Zag Stitching Your Personal Measurements Zig-Zag Stitching

Zig-Zag Disc Patterns

Flexi-Stitch Disc Patterns

With, a Twin Needle Zipper Insertion

...............................

3, 20, 27

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...................................

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...........

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60 29 29

30 32

25 25

Form 21771 (Rev. 578) Part No. 173235

Page 83

Dear Customer:

We recommend that for future reference you record the

seria! number of your Sewing Machine in the space provided.

Refer to illustration at right for location of serial number on your machine.

Serial No........

Serial No:

♦ K ♦ «r 1« ^

J i ' i

Here, there, everywhere

‘A TracemafH of THE SiNGSR COMPANY

SINGER

Enjoy Sewing!

If you have any questions, please write to:

The Singer Company

Consumer Affairs Department

321 First Street

Elizabeth. N.J. 07207

Printed in U.S>

Page 84

s 8 8

Makes great vacuum cleaners, too!

A good vacuum cleaner is like a good sewing machine. You use it day in, day out. It works hard. You expect years of dependable service.

You already know we make great sewing machines. But did you know we also make great vacuum cleaners? And v/e’ve been making them for over 46 years, with the same pride that goes into every Singer product.

For carpets, there’s our Golden Powermasîer* upright Model Ü-69; it has our twin-fan suc tion system that distributes suction power evenly over the entire nozzle. (Fact: Only Singer makes a two fan system.) Plus one of the largest disposable dust bags in the industry. The high performance vibrator brush (approx. 4000 rpms) first shakes dirt free, then sweeps, then air-washes your carpet—that’s triple action cleaning power!

For floors and above-the-floor jobs, we have powerful can

ister cleaners...like our Golden Glide* canister Model C-17...

which offers a two stage motor with 3.3 peak horsepower!

Pius a pair of “pop-up” indicators. One tells you when your bag should be changed; the other (an exclusive to Singer) lets you know if you’ve accidently clogged your cleaner with

socks, matchbooks, etc...That’s fail-safe cleaning! Plus an

air-power control console that lets you adjust the suction power to 6 different cleaning jobs...including carpets. The C-17 has a separate motor-driven powerhead (for carpet

cleaning) which adjusts to 4 different carpet pile heights! And, there are other upright and canister models to choose

from. Come in and see them today.

The first name in sewing,

the last word in cleaning

aiemarK o! THE SiNGER COMPANY

C-17

SINGER 771 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual

1. GETTING TO KNOW YOUR MACHINE

1. BOBBINS

2. SEAM AND BLINDSTITCH HEM GUIDE

3. NEEDLES

4. VERTICAL SPOOL PIN

5. SMALL SPOOL HOLDER

6. LINT BRUSH

7. PRESSER FEET

8. MEEDLE PLATES

9. CHAINSTITCH FITTINGS

2. GETTliyC READY TO SEW

Changing the Needle

NEEDLES

CHANGING PRESSER FEET

Snap-on Presser Feet

One-Piece Presser Feet

The Even Feed Foot

NEEDLE PLATES

CHANGING NEEDLE PLATE

3. STRAIGHT STITCHING

SETTING THE IVIACHINE

CHOOSING ACCESSORIES

PIN BASTING

PLACING FABRIC

starting a Seam

Guiding and Supporting Fabric

CURVED SEAMS

TO ATTACH SEAM GUIDE

REINFORCING END OF SEAM

4. ALL ABOUT ZIG-ZAG STITCHiiyG

ADJUSTING WIDTH OF DESIGN

ADJUSTING

NEEDLE-THREAD TEN-

SION

ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH

Stitch Controi Dial

DIAL SETTINGS

5. TWiiy-iyEEDLE STITCHiiyG

6. TEMPORARY STITCHING

ADJUSTING THREAD TENSION

REMOVING THE STITCHING

REMOVING CHAINSTITCH ACCESSORIES

7. BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES

BUTTOMHOLE POSITION

To stitch a buttonhole, set ail dials on red symbols.

8. FREE-MOTlOñi STITCHiiyG

Attachmg the Zipper Foot

CORDED SEAMS

DARTS

Contirtuous-Thread Darts

Blindstitch Hem

SEAMS IN FABRICS THAT RAVEL

Method — Trimmed Seam Finish

Method — Overedged Seam Finish

PLAIN STRETCH SEAMS

Procedure

Drawn^Thread Work

DRAWN-THREAD WORK

Procedure:

REPAIRING SEAMS

REPAIRING STRETCH GARMENTS

Bar Tacks

iO. FREE-ARM SEWING

SLEEVES

DARNING AND MENDING

BAR TACKS

11. CARING FOR YOUR MACHINE

REMOVING AND REPLACING

REMOVING AND REPLACING BOTTOM COVER

REMEMBER TO

IF THREAD

BREAKS

12. SEWING AIDS