Chapter 1. Getting to Know Your Machine......................................................................................................................2
Principal Parts..................................................................................................................................................2
Fabric Thread and Needle Table.............................................................................................................. 8
Needle-Fabric Combinations
Operating the Machine..................................................................................................................................10
The Bobbin Thread...................................................................................................................................... 11
Winding the Bobbin • Threading the Bobbin Case
Threading the Machine................................................................................................................................ 13
Sewing a Seam........................................................................................................................................... 17
Multi Stitch Zig-Zag....................................................................................................................................... 30
Chapter 10. Caring for Your Machine................................................................................................................................. 38
Index ......................................................................................................................................................................................40
Tho accessories that come with your sewing
machine are designed to help you do many
kinds of sewing easily,
1, Transparent Bobbins (No. 172336).
2. Needles
• Style 2020 is for general sewing.
• Style 2045 is used for sewing knits,
stretch fabrics and elastic.
• Style 2025 for twin-needle decorative
stitching on woven and knit fabrics.
3. Buttonhole Foot is used to make bar tack
buttonholes of any length in four steps.
4. Special Purpose Foot. Used for all kinds
of decorative zig-zag stitching.
5. Zipper Foot for inserting zippers and stitch
ing corded seams.
6. General Purpose Fool on your machine
when delivered, is used for ail utility sew
ing, with either straight or zig-zag stitching.
7. General Purpose Needle Plate on your
machine when delivered is used with ail
presser feet.
8. Snap-in Feed Cover for button sewing and
free-motion work.
9. Spool Pin Extension used for tubes of
thread.
10. Blindstitch Hem Guide. Use this with the
general purpose foot to position and guide
the hem.
11. Detachable Spool Pin for decorative twinneedle stitching and two-thread topstitching.
12. Felt to help thread unwind smoothly.
}1
o
!2
choosing and changing accessories
CHANGING THE NEEDLE
♦ Raise needle to its highest point by turning
the hand wheel toward you. Loosen needle
clamp screw A and remove the needle.
• Insert new needle up into clamp B as far
as it will go. with the fiat side of the needle
to the back.
« Tighten needie clamp screw.
CHANGING PRESSER FEET
Snap-on Presser Feet
The presser feet furnished with your machine Raise needle to highest position by turning the
snap on and off a common shank. hand wheel toward you. Raise presser foot.
To Remove and Replace Foot
Hat Side to Back
la. Press toe of pressor foot upward as far as 1b. Then snap down to remove,
it will go.
;2. Centre the new presser foot under the shank 3. Press presser foot screw down firmly until
C and lower the pressor foot lifter so that foot snaps into place,
the shank fits over the presser foot pin.
REMOVING AND REPLACING NEEDLE
PLATE
• Raise presser foot.
• Raise needle to highest position.
• Open slide plate. Place thumb under right
side of needle plate, lift it up and withdraw
it to right.
• Replace needle plate under clamping pin A,
push it gently to the left and press down
until it snaps into place.
ATTACHING SNAP-IN FEED COVER
• Raise presser foot.
• Raise needle to highest position by turning
hand wheel toward you. Open slide plate.
• Slide snap-in feed cover away from you
over needle plate until points B and C are
positioned directly over holes in needle plate
as iiiustrated. Snap in point B. Then push
point C in toward point B until it snaps into
place. Close slide plate. To remove, open
slide plate then simply lift up front edge of
feed cover.
ATTACHING BLINDSTITCH HEM GUIDE
• Raise presser foot, loosen presser foot
screw with a coin and slip blindstitch hem
guide between screw and shank of the
general purpose foot.
• Be sure underside of the guide clears the
slide plate and front of foot.
• Tighten screw with a coin.
FABRIC WEIGHT TABLE
There are many types of fabrics around the world, each manufactured with a specific fibre and
weight. The fabric below have been classified according to weight to give a small sample of
what is available for purchase.
FIBRE
AND
FILMY
SHEER
CONSTRUCTION
SILK
(Woven)
(Knit)
RAYON
(Woven)
(Knit)
COTTON
(Woven)
(Knit)
WOOL
(Woven)
(Knit)
SYNTHgTIC
(Woven)
Chiffon,
Organza,
Tulle
Tulle
Voile.
Tulle
Chiffon,
Organza,
Tulle
Net, Lace, Ninon
Net, Lace
Net, Lace
Net, Lace, Ninon,
Crepe de Chine
Velvet, Crepe de Chine, Shantung. Faille
Jersey
Velvet, Taffeta, Satin
Ciré
Chains, Organdy, Muslin, Batiste, Dimity,
Lawn, Percale, Eyelet, Gingham, Piqué,
Poplin
Jersey
Cashmere. Flannel, Mohair, Felt, Crepe
Jersey
Crepe, Velvet, Taffeta, Satin
(Knit)
SYNTHETIC
BLENDS
(Woven)
(Knit)Single Knit
LEATHER
PLASTIC
VINYLS
Volte
Piastic Film
Raschol, Single Knit, Sweater Knit,
Bonded Knit, Tricot, Ciré
Choosing the correct needle and thread for your fabric is of utmost importance. Correct choice
wilt make the difference in the wear and appearance of your new garment. The Fabric Weight
Table on the previous page, and the Fabric. Thread and Needle Table below are practical guides
to needle and thread selection. Refer to them before starting a sewing project. Be sure
to use the same size and type of thread in both needle and bobbin.
To select the correct needle and thread for your fabric, first refer to the Fabric Weight Table
to determine the weight and type of the material you are using.
Next, refer to the Fabric Thread and Needle Table.
TYPE
OF
THREADS j ^NEEDLES
SILKFine Silk
Fino Mercerizocl
RAYON
OOTTON
WOOL
SYNTHETIC
SYNTHETIC
BLENDS
Fino Silk
Fine Mercerized
Fine Cotton
Fine Mercerized
Fine Synthetic
-Fine Synthetic
FILMY
2020-9
2020-9
2020-9
2020-9
2020-9
SHEER
; IHHEAUS % lEEOLES
Fine Silk
Fine Mercerized
Fine Silk
Fine Mercerized2020-9
Fine Cotton
Fine Mercerized2020-9
Fine Silk
Fine Mercerized2020-11
Fine Synthetic2020-9 ”
Fine Synthetic
2020-9
2020-9
j LIGHT
1 THREADS 1NEEDLES
Fine Silk
Fine Mercerized
Fine Silk
Fine Mercerized
Medium Cotton
Med. Mercerized
Fine Silk
Fine Mercerized
Fine Synthetic
Fine Synthetic
2020-11
2020-11
2020-11
2020-11
^ 2045-11 ^
2045-11
LEATHERMed, Mercerized
Med. Synthetic2032-11
PLASTIC
VINYLSFine Mercerized
Fine Mercerized
Fine Synthetic
Fine Synthetic2020-T1
2020-11
Find the fabric you are using in Type of Fabric column at left (silk, rayon, etc.). Then locate
the fabric weight column (filmy, sheer, etc.) for your fabric at top of table. Read across from
Type of Fabric column to correct weight of fabric column. There, the correct thread and needle
choice for your fabric will bo found.
Example: If you are sewing a medium weight wool, find wool in Type of Fabric column. Read
across to Medium (weight) column and you will see that a medium silk or mercerized thread
and a size 2020-14 needle are to be used.
You should follow the recommendations in this instruction book and on the needle package
for correct stylo and size of needle for different types and weights of fabric.
Medium Silk
Medium Mercerized
Medium Synthetic
Medium Mercerized
Medium Cotton
Medium Mercerized2020-14
Medium Silk
Medium Mercerized
Medium Synthetic
Medium Synthetic
Medium Mercerized
Medium Synthetic
Medium Mercerized
Medium Synthetic
2020-11
2020-11
2020-14
2045-14
: 2045-14 ;
; 2032-14
2020-11
Heavy Silk
Heavy Mercerized
Heavy Synthetic
Heavy Mercerized
Heavy Cotton
Heavy Mercerized
Heavy Mercerized
Heavy Synthetic2045-16Heavy Synthetic2020-16 or 18
Heavy Synthetic
Heavy Mercerized
Heavy Synthetic,2032-16;
Medium Mercerized
Medium Synthetic2020-14
2020-14
2020-14
2020-16
2020-16
2045-16
Heavy Silk2020-14
Heavy Synthetic
Heavy Mercerized2020-14
Heavy Cotton
Heavy Mercerized
Heavy Mercerized2020-16
Heavy Synthetic
Heavy Mercerized
Heavy Synthetic
Heavy Mercerized
Heavy Synthetic
2020-18
2020-16 or 18
2032-18
2020-16
Medium Mercerized
Medium Synthetic
2020-11
Medium Mercerized
Medium Synthetic
2020-14
Heavy Mercerized
Heavy Synthetic
2020-16
needie-fabric combinations
Correct needle selection is closely related to
stitch quality and appearance. Damaged fabric
is almost always caused by a needle that is
bent, burred or that is an inappropriate style
for the fabric and thread you are using.
The three types of needles most commonly used
are the regular, ball point, and wedge. To
obtain good results, the correct size and type
of needle for the fabric and thread you are
using must bo chosen. Refer to the Fabric,
Thread and Needle Table, page 8.
operating the machine
CONNECTING MACHINE
Result of Using a Bent Needle
• Before plugging in your machine, be sure
the electrical information on the side of the
machine A, below the hand wheel agrees
with the range marked on your electrical
meter.
• Connect plug B to machine and plug C to
your socket outlet.
• To turn the machine attd light on or off,
press switch as shown.
• To run the machine and control speed, press
the speed controller D with your foot. The
speed controller has electronic circuitry
which provides constant speed and constant
penetration when sewing on fabrics of vary
ing thickness. The harder you press, the
faster the machine will sew,
CAUTION: Disconnect the power line plug from
the socket outlet when changing needles, feet
or needle plates or when leaving the machine
unattended. This eliminates the possibility of
starting the machine by accidentally pressing
the speed controller.
the bobbin thread
Your sowing machine uses two threads to form a stitch. The upper thread comes from the
spool and is threaded through the eye of the needle. The lower thread comes from the bob
bin. Wind the bobbin before threading the machine.
WINDING THE BOBBIN
Preparation Steps
1. Raise the presser foot and turn hand wheel
toward you until needle is in highest po
sition.
2. Loosen hand wheel knob A by turning it toward you with the right hand while holding
hand wheel with the left hand.
3. Open slide plate and lift out bobbin.
4. Place spool pin felt on pin.
Winding Steps
• Place thread spool on spool pin with thread
retaining slit B on top. (Break paper at the
end of spool if necessary). If you are using
a tube of thread affix spool pin extension
to spool pin to ensure even flow of thread,
• Load thread around bobbin winder tension
disc C and through small hole in bobbin
from inside out.
•
• Place bobbin on spindle and push bobbin
to right to engage bobbin winder.
• Hold thread end as shown and start the ma
chine. Cut off thread end after a few coils
have been wound.
• When required amount of thread has been
wound (winding will stop when bobbin is
full), stop the machine and cut connecting
thread.
• Push bobbin to left and remove bobbin from
spindle.
• Hold hand wheel and tighten hand wheel
knob.
THREADÍNG THE BOBBIN CASE
1. Hold bobbin so that thread unwinds in the
direction shown, and put bobbin into bobbin
case.
2. Pull thread into notch A, draw it back under
the tension spring and back into slot B.
3. Draw approximately 10 cm {4 inches) of
thread across the bobbin.
4. Close slide plate allowing thread to enter slot
between the needle plate and slide plate.
12
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