SINGER 611 User Manual

"V ’I T

Cl о i

/Ч A. A

• %*>Ч "• V ■ ■ •

ro

> < > vV;>045 G :12-¿'6; <;ì:’ì(':. Pruìii-c: G Wûsiôrr ОйГм'^огу

Ï» w Á.

t T

' wi

Í Ï

Wi.

•Í T^. /Nr

illy

A Trccìc-mork or THE SiNG£2 COMPANY

the best sewing machine ever built by SINGER

Th.6 SIMGER 611 truly remarkable macbine with CHAIN STITCH feature

The SINGER 51! represents the truly universal sewing machine that
will crreatlv contribute to nerfect domestic dressmakincn In addition

to its numerous outstanding advantages the machine now incorporates
a new and unique feature in that lock stitching and chain stitching can
be selectively produced on the same madiine.

^ Only SINGER produces an automatic machine that in addition to

the conventional lock stitch also sews a single thread chain stitch
which can be used for basting seams thus replacing hand-basting.
This feature 'whll release you from time-consuming work and

it

reveals new aspects so far non-existent in the overall picture of
the applications of the modern family sewing machine. (For detailed
instructions concerning operation and application, see page 22.)

♦ SINGER has WORLD'S FIRST AUTOMATIC with slant needle and

gear drive. Seeing is easier, sewing smoothest ever. No slipping
or stalling,

^ SINGER has WORLD'S FIRST AUTOMATIC w i t h do u b 1 e - ea s y

threading. Has built-in threading chart, handy "dropAn** bobbin in
f r o n t of needle!

♦ SINGER has WORLD'S FIRST AUTOMATIC with a built-in eye-

ievel stitch chart, with push button selection for whatever fancy
stitch you want!

0

Copyright 1965 by The Singer Compcny

OTHER OUTSTANDING FEATURES ARE:

^ SUPERFINE CONTROL of stitdr length ensures

perfect satin stitching.

® PERFECT STITCHING ... straight and zigzag.
Ф NHBDLE CLAMP holds one or two regular need

ing — same or diiierent sizes for exciting twin

needle stitcliing*

# THItOAT FLATH with seam guide markings.

Held with magnets for easy removal and replace
ment.

# PRESSURE OF PRESSER FOOT can easily be

adjusted according to regulator.

# NEW TYPE SPOOL HOLDER ensures a smooth

how of the needle thread.

^ HINGED face plate swings open for easy access

to oiling and clc<ming points.

MOTOR with worm wheel drive, no
belts required, excellent penetrating power when
sewing heaviest materials without manual assis
tance (electric drive).

# BUILT-IN LIGHT focused on sewing area, which

swings down for easy bulb replacement.

# ALL MECHANISM completely enclosed.
# SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT.

# FLEXIBLE SEAM GUIDE.

TO GET THE MOST ENJOYMENT
FROM YOUR SINGER 611

Take advantage of the free sewing lessons to which you are entitledl

Skilled, SINGER-trained teachers will give you personal guidance and

assist you in learning the fundamentals of home sewing.

SINGER SERVICE

Wherever you go you will find expert, dependable SINGER* Service
close at hand. SINGER is interested in helping you keep your SINGER
Sewing Machine in top running condition. That i.s why you should
always call your SINGER SEWING CENTRE if your madrine ever
requires adjustment or repair. Only from your SINGER SEWING
CENTRE can you obtain the services of a trained SINGER repair man
and warranted SINGER'*' parts.

Пк1©Шй

risa Гб)

ШШ&

4(8У-^г==У@)

..Амм^Кмммммак. ^

EVERYTHING FOR THE WOMAN WHO SEWS

The answer to your sewing needs is at your SINGER SEWING
CENTRE. There you will find a wide choice of sewing aids, notions,
sewing instructions and services. Look for the famous red "S" and
SINGER trademarks on your SINGER SEWING CENTRE and the ever

readv SINGER Service Car. See phone book for address nearest vou.

NEEDLE AND THREAD SELECTION

The selection of thread should be based on the fabric to be stitched,

The thread should blend with

the fabric in colour, fibre and size.

Silk and wool fabrics should be stitched with silk thread; cotton fabrics $br)uld be stitcied with cotton
or cotton mercerised thread, etc. The thread must be of a size that will imbed itself into the texture of the
fabric. Thread that is too heavy for the fabric will remain on the surface and become weakened by fric

tion and abrasion.

The selection of the needle should be based on both the fabric and thread being used. The eye of the
needle must be large enough for the thread to pass freely through it. The blade of the needle must be fine

enough not to mar the fabric with too large a puncture, yet heavy enough to pierce the fabric without
binding or deflecting.

You will obtain best stitching results from your Sewhng Machine if it is fitted wuth a SINGER* Needle.

NBEDLHS AN0 THREAD

"his machine uses a Cat 2020 (15X1)

needle. Sizes 9, 11, 14, 16 and 1$.

For perfect stitching, select correct needle
and thread to correspond with fabric {see
page 5).

Be sure to use like threads for both needle

and bobbin.

NBHDIE INSERTION

Raise the needle bar to highest point by
turning the hand wheel toward you. Loosen
the needle clamp screw. Insert needle up
ward into clamp as far as it wull go, with the
flat side of the needle to the back and the

long groove toward you. Tigh.ten needle

clamp screw.

6

LOiNG GROOVE
TOWARD YOU

TO OFERATB MACHINE

Place material under the presser foot and

lower foot. Connect plug to electric outlet

(see page 97). Start machine by pressing con

troller.

fEIectric Drive)

The speed of the machine depends entirely
on the amount of pressure applied to the
controller.

Practice operating the machine (without

thread) until you become accustomed to
guiding material and regulating machine
sneed.

TO OPERATE THE ?

(Treadle Drive}

Loosen stop motion screw and place both feet on treadle.

Turn hand wheel over toward you, allowing feet to move freely and lightly with motion of treadle.

Practice this motion until vou are able to re-start machine with hand wheel turning over toward you. Then
tighten stop motion screw.

8

1RFTT «vHTFTFI?

To throw off the belt, work the treadle and move

belt shifter to position shown.

To replace belt, release belt shifter and work

Place material under presser foot and lower the

foot.

Operate machine {without thread) until you be

come accustomed to guiding the material.

treadle slowly with band wheel turning over to
ward you. One or two revolutions of band wheel

will bring belt back into place.

Note: Tension on belt should be only heavy en

ough to keep belt from slipping.

9

spoot HOiPia

1. Slip spool seat on to spindle (Cushion
side facing spool of thread).

2, Slip spool of thread on to spindle-

3. Press thread lead-off against spool of thread. Select thread lead-off according to the size of thread
spool used^ as shown.

10

UPPER THREADING-SINGLE NEEDLE

Raise take-up lever to highest point. Place thread
on spool holder and lead through threading points
shown. Thread needle from front to back. Draw
sufficient thread throuch eve of needle with which
to start sewing.

n

...

WIND THE BOBBIN

y-".

Release hand wheel turn stop motion screw with right hand in direction shown by arrow. Slip bobbin

on to bobbin winder spindle»

12

WIND TFH BOBBIN fCoai^a.|

Thread the machine as shown.
Wind several coils of thread around the bobbin and depress bobbin winder engaging lever.

13

WIND THB BOBBIN {ConVd,}

Do not wind too much thread, otherwise there

would be no free run of the bobbin in the bobbin
case.

Stop machine, raise bobbin winder engaging lever

and remove bobbin from bobbin winder spindle.

Tighten stop motion screw with right hand in

direction shown bv arrow.

14

/ /■

O^ea

sU-

r0^'

! \àe

\5

THSEA0ING THE BOBBIN CASE

'0

T-‘*s^2^*^^; v:y.‘^y.-

Hold bobbin so that thread leads off in direction shown. Place bobbin in case. Lead thread into slot

and under spring.

Draw thread into notch at end of spring, pulling off about 3 inches of thread across the bobbin.

Close slide plate allowing thread to enter notch.

16

6 Pressure Release

Button.
Thread Take-up
Lever
Pre-tension
Pattern Selector
Buttons

Hngaging Lever
Hand Wheel
Bobbin Winder
Spindle
Stitdi Length
Regulator
Bobbin Winder
Pre-tension
Bulb Replacenre:
Lever

I?

STITCH LENGTH INDICATOR

Numerals on the left side of the indicator repre
sent the number of stitches per inch. Numerals on
the right side represent stitch length in millimeters.

A superfine control cam be made in case of siitdx
lengths less than 1 mm or stitches per inch {20),

The greatest stitch length of 4 mm or 6 stitches
per inch can be locked in place when stitching folds,
pleats or multiple layers of heavy fabric.

To set stitch length: Loosen by turning thumb nut

to the left as shown. Position lever for desired stitch

length. Tighten by turning thumb nut to the right.

By raising the stitch length regulator to the hig

hest point, reverse stitching is accomplished at the

UNLOCKS

REVERSE

LOCKS

FORWARD

'Nv

.2'

\

same stitch length as forward. When in locked
position, 4 mm or stitches per inch (6) cannot be
reversed. If reverse stitching is desired with this
stitch length position, turn thumb nut to the left
until the stitch

length regulator can be adjusted to

its highest point at reverse stitching.

18

V

STITCH WIDTH IBYER

4

■:•:•:•♦ , s

.-f*

The stitch width lever is used for both straight and zigzag stitching. Numerals indicate five positions

but intermediate settings may also be used. To position, depress stitch width lever and slide it left or
right to desired setting.

Do not set stitch width lever while the needle is in the fabric.

PATTEHN SEIHCTOR

Please note: Do not make selector adjustments while the needle is in the fabric.
When make Pattern selection set stitch width lever at 3.

3

19

PATTmN SELECTOR

JStok

To Select Required Pattern

1. Depress Push Button A and keep
depressed until selection is com

pleted.

2. Push Pattern Selector Buttons.

3. Select required Pattern.

4. Release Pattern Selector Buttons.

5. Release Push Button A.

20

B D f H J

Settings from K through Special are

made by the upper button.

Settings from A through J are made by

the lower button

THROAT PLATE

REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT

Removal of throat plate

Replacement oi throat plate

i ! I J:

#1

©

Raise presser bar. Turn hand wheel to raise needle
to its highest position. Open slide plate. Place thumb
under front end of throat plate and lift plate from
machine.

Place throat plate in position over two clamping

pins and then close slide plate.

21

CHAIN STITCH

More than any other sewing machine the new SINGE'R 611 will
eliminate a comidetahie amount of time-consuming and burden

some work previously done‘by hand. This machine has the uni
que feature of being capable of producing not only conventional
lock stitching but selectively single thread chain stitching,

The main advantage of this type of stitch is that the single thread
chain stitch can easily and quickly be removed by a single pull
on the dmln stitch seam. By means of the chain stitch the neces

sary tacking and basting operations indispensable for sewing
perfectly fitted cresses or other garments can now be produced
on a mmchine. Even a section of a chain stitch seam can be remov

2'>

if^

ed without any effort as is frequently required when fitting the
dress or gàTxaent (side and waist seamm). Once the dress or gar

ment fits, the final lock stitch is stitched in a close parallel line

to the chain stitch. Then the temporary seam is remioved by a
single pull without leaving remains of the thread in the fabric.
Thus sewing-in of the basting seam is very unlikely. For basting,
regular thread or darning thread may be used.

The single thread chain stitch has a wide range of applications
and can be employed for a variety of operations, for instance:

Edge basting on jackets, coats and costumes — sleeve in
serting — attaching collars — hems on skirts, blouses etc.;

Basting canvasses to the fronts of costumes and jackets in

stead of sewing them. with, zig/^ag stitches;

Sewing shrinking tucks on garments as shirts, pyjamas etc.

as well as on ready made clothes and curtains made from
fabrics which are likely to shrink. The temporary stitching of
the curtains and also the final stit<±ing can be performed on

the same machine. Stitching growth tucks which can be open

ed on clothes for growing children, as desired;
Re-sewing waist and leg hems on ladies' and men's under

wear of tricot or interlock fabrics when replacing elastics;

# Adjusting length and width of ladies' slips (shortening for

short persons, taking-in width for slim persons) particularly
to match fashions
transparency making a slip essential.

when dresses have a certain degree of

Another most distinctive feature of the chain stitch which will

certainly be appreciated by the homeworker for artisan type
production is that the chain stitdr is formed exclusively by the
needle thread thus freeing the operator from bobbin winding.
This, in turn, is a time saving factor. In addition to the above

mentioned applications the artisan worker will use the chain

stitching for —
# First contour stitching on shirt collars — sewing on labels —

hemming operations on neckties and umbrellas — in short,
all operations where the chain stitch proves to be advanta
geous wuth respect to convenience, quality and time.

K

TO PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR CHAIN STITCH SEWING

Set Selectors at AK and stitch width lever at 3

First remove regular throat plate and bobbin.

A

Insert chain stitch loop retainer into bobbin, case

(Illustration 1)

Depress latch (Illustration 2) and turn to the left
against stop (Illustration 3).

Insert chain stitch throat olaie.

2

24

J-

/

CHAIN STITCHING

A chain stitch seam has the same appearance as a

lock stitch seam on the top side of the fabric.

How^ever, the knotting of the stitch does not occur

in the m*aterial as on a nronerlv balanced lode stitch

A A A’

seam^; instead the thread forms loops on the under*

side of the fabric which resemble small arrowheads.

These arrowheads peculiar to the chain stitch point

tow^ards the beginning of the seam.

When starting make sure that the take-up lever is

in its highest position. This will prevent the needle
thread from pulling out of the needle if the thteed
has been cut too.short. Sew forward only! If the
material is

pivoted at the needle for operations
where cornering is required, make certain that the
needle is on its upward movement (approx. 1 cm
above its lowest poinX] to avoid skipped stitches.
Then continue to sew.

TO REMOVE THE MATERIAL FROM BENEATH
THE PRESSER FOOT

Threading: In addition to normal threading, place
the needle thread in the chain stitch thread guide
with the face plate open.

Stitch length: Normally set for mxaximum length,
approx. 6 stitches to the inch (4 mm] (left row of
numbers on the stitch indicator plate). Any stitch
length between 6 and 12 stitches to the inch (2 mm)
may be used.

Upper thread tension: Norm^ally set between 2 and

3. Slight adjustnaent may be required dependent on
the thread size and the material used.

The easiest way of removing the material is to sew
off the edge of the fabric while slightly pulling on
the material. This produces a chain which should
be cut some distance away from the fabric. How
ever, if the seam is ended before the edge of the
fabric, bring the take-up lever to its highest posi

tion, then lift the presser foot and pull some thread

through the take-up lever from the spool pin. Now

draw the loose thread between the presser foot and

the material to the right with the scissors and then
cut the thread. By removing the m^aterial the free
end of the thread is automatically pulled to the
underside of the material and the seam is securely

locked.

2o

mmmmmmmm

TO OPEN THE SEAM

The chain stitch seam can be opened in one direc
tion only, from the end of the seam towards the
start of the seam, The opening direction is distin-

Difeciion of oDer.incT

giiished by the arrowheads on the underside of the
fabric which point towards the beginning of the
seam.

To open the seam, cut the last stitch on the top side
of the fabric and then pull up the preceding stitch.
With this free thread end the seam can be removed
by a singie pull. In the same manner the seam may
be opened and removed at any desired place by
pulling the thread end in arrowhead direction. The
remaining section to the end of the seam will be
maintained.

28

Section to remain

Section to remain

Section to be onened

>

However, if the section towards the
beginning of the seam is to remain and

the segment towards the end of the
seam is to be removed, either partly
or completely, the remaining section
must be locked nrst. For this purpose,
cut the seam at the desired place on
the top side and pull the loop out of
the fabric on the underside of same.
Then the desired segment of the seam
can be removed as stated above.

TO CHANGE FROM CHAIN STITCHING TO LOCK STITCHING

Cimnging to lock stitching requires only unthreading of the diain stitch thread guide (see page 25), repla
cing the bobbin and inserting the desired zigzag or straight stitch throat plate.

27

A

LOCK STITCH

STRAIGHT STITCHING

AK 3

K

Set Selector at AK.
Stitdi width lever at 3 — To locate stitching in central position.
General purpose throat plate and presser foot.

Use general purpose throat plate and presser foot for all utility sewing, long straight seams, etc., and

where there is occasion to alternate between straight and zigzag stitching.

26

STIiAIGHT STITCH ТНШАТ PLATE AND

PRESSER FOOT

т г.

Jse the straight stitch throat plate and presser

Ui

foot where fabric and sewing procedure require
close control.. Лог precision stitching of curved
and scalloped edges, top stitching, edge stitching,
etc.

For best results, this equipment should be used

when stitching sheer and hlmy fabrics, knits and

tricots (particularly synthetics) and all soft spongy

materials.

STRAIGHT STITCHING WITH LEFT AND RIGHT NEEDLE POSITION

12 4 5

A

Set Selector at AK.
Stitch width lever at I, 2, 4 or 5*

General purpose throat plate and presser foot.
Do not make stitch width lever adjustments while the needle is in the fabric.
To meet special requirements a line of stitching may be placed to the right or left of centre.
Stitch lever settings 1 and 2 locate stitching to the left. Settings 4 and 5 place it to the

Intermediate settings may also be used.

right.

29

PREPASE TO SEW

Hold needle thread lightly with left hand. Turn hand wheel so that needle enters plate and brings

up bobbin thread.

-I V
i

/

Pull end of bobbin thread through plate and place both needle and bobbin threads diagonally under

presser foot.

30

SHWING A SEAM

i ■

/

IL ‘

w

lower oresser foot. Raise stitch regulator to reverse.

/4.

U/’

i
i '

Back stitdi to

of fabric for reinforcement. Lower regulator for forward stitching of seam. Raise

stitch regulator.

from edge

anc

31

Back stitch to reinforce end of seam, and lower regulator to forward stitching position,

With take-up lever at highest point, raise presser foot and remove fabric.

32

GUIDING AND SUFPOETING FABRIC

Most fabrics need only to be guided in front of the presser foot.
Fabrics of unusual texture and weave, filmy sheers, crepes, knits, tricots, etc., require support while

being stitched.

For such fabrics, use the straight stitch throat plate and presser foot, and apply gentle tension to the

seara by holding the fabric in front and in back of the presser foot as illustrated.

33

PRESSURE ADJUSTMENTS

U

Increase

Pressure is the force the presso;
while it is being stitched.

The presser foot must be lowered prior to adjustments.
Smooth, even hdj:\Qling of several thicknesses of fabric
results when pressure is correctly regulated. Heavy pres­sure is for thick fabric and light pressure is for thin fabric.

Too light a pressure will result in irregular feeding which
affects both quality of stitch and evenness of seams.

Too heavy a pressure not only affects stitch and seam

quality but will also mar smooth surfaces and pile fabrics.

Surface finish, as well as the weight and texture of the
fabric, must be considered in determining the amount of
oressure needed.

Position for darning
and embroidery
operations

Xy .

■oot exerts on fabric

34

NEEDLE THREAD TENSION

STRAIGHT STITCHING

Needle thread tension too tight —
correct by setting dial to lower num
ber.

issKsse

Needle thread tension too loose

correct by setting dial to higher nm

ber.

A perfectly locked stitch results with upper and lower tensions balanced so that needle and bobbin

breads are drawn equally into fabric.

35

BOBBIN THREAD TENSION

STRAIGHT STITCHING

Bobbin thread tension too tight —
correct by turning screw in direction
indicated.

Bobbin thread tension too loose —
correct by turning scre\v in directiO;
indicated.

A perfectly locked stitch results with the upper and lower tensions balanced so that needle and bobbin
threads are drawn equally into fabric.
36

ZIGZAG STITCHING BQUIFMHNT

General purpose presser loot

Special purpose presser foot

37

STITCH LENGTH ADJUSTMENT FOli SATIN STITCHING

0^

m

mSSS^H

The upper indented area behind the stitch indicator provides a means

of gradually shortening the stitch length*

As the regulator knob is turned, the pointer rides deeper into this

indentation until a closed satin stitch is obtained.

The exact stitch setting will vary with the texture of the fabric.
It is advisable to make a test on a scrap of self fabric, using the
Special Purpose Foot, before proceeding with actual work.

SATIN STITCH

TENSION ADJUSTMENT

Satin stitdaing requires a lighter needle thread
tension than straight stit<hing or open designs. The
wider the satin stitching the lighter the tension
required.

Wide satin stitching, stitdi width lever at 5, requi

res the least amount of tension. For narrower satin
stitching slightly more tension should be used.

To determine correct tension setting, a test

sample should be made on self fabric using the
Special Purpose Foot. A properly balanced satin
stitch should lie hat across the material. Any taut

ness or puckering indicates too high a needle

thread tension.

Some soft fabrics may require the addition of a

backing to insure good stitching results. Crisp

organdy and lawn are suitable for this purpose.

Tight needle thread

tension

Correct needle

tension

PRIMARY PATTBRNS — BUILT-IN THH MACHINH

See pages 19 and 20 for operation of stitch width lever and selector.

L N P R

S Mid 0| Special

i M h ^ ^

I i J. i 1 i.

5

The operation of the upper selector button between L and Special controls the function of the primary

patterns shown below.

The setting of the lower selector button at 3 places the stitching in the central needle position.
The stitch width lever controls the width of primary patterns.
Do not make stitch width lever or selector settings while the needle is in the fabric.

L

u

H

0

p

u

*

i

1

ylll
i

1

i

40

Q

R

'N

J

S
S

P
E

C

1

A
L

PRIMARY PATTERNS

SPECIAL DISCS

These five interchangeable Special Discs, classihed as Primary Patterns, are included with the ma
chine. Each produces an individual design.

Circled numbers (for example in this book indicate Special Disc numbers.

41

L N P R

: : i

M'OiOi

PltlMARY PATTERNS

REPLACEMENT OF SPECIAL DISCS

Special

To replace any of these discs, move pointer of the upper Selector off Special.
Raise the stitch chart at top of the machine. Remove disc and place another disc onto spindle, pushing

:r>vnward until disc snaps in place.

Set pointer of the upper Selector on Special to engage the disc.

PRIMARY PATTERNS

SXrrCH WIDTH LEVER CONTROL OF WIDTH

•J*»'

58E

m|0|CI| Special

The width of Primary Patterns is controlled by the stitch width lever. Settings range from a maxi

of 0 to a minimum of 2.

PRIMAItY PATTERNS

NEEDLE POSITIONS

Selector setting of B places stitching in central
needle position. Selector settings A and C place the
stitching in left and right needle positions at widths
less than 5.

LEFT

CENTER

L N P R

I mIoI o! Special

i i i

RIGHT

Selector setting B is preferred. Settings A and C
are only used when special placement of stitching
1$ desired. For example: Buttonholes, button sew
ing.

44

B

L N P R

¡MjO|Q| Special

\ i I

COMBINATION PATTBRNS AND VARIATIONS

-w»

J

4

A great variety of additional stitch patterns can be created by combining any lower Selector setting

from D through J with any upper Selector setting from L through Special.

A stitch width lever setting of 3 results in a Combination Pattern. Settings of 2 and 4 produce Varia

tions.

45

The needle clamp accommodates two Cat.
2020 (15X1) needles, generally of the same
size. However, where special effects are

desired, needles of different sizes may be

TWO NEEDLES

used together, with corresponding threads.

Loosen the thumb screw and insert the addi
tional needle from the right, (See page 6 for

procedure.)

46

TWO NEEDLES

UFPES: THREADING

Thread as for single needle first (see page U). provided (see illustration). Slip second spool of

Open top cover, insert auxiliary spool holder thread on to the auxiliary spool holder and thread

(which is furnished with the machine) into the hole second needle as shown.

Make certain that threads are separated by the centre tension disc. Carry only one thread through last

guide at the needle clamp.

47

A

TWO NEEDiES

STRAIGHT STITCHING AK 2

Selector setting: AK.
Siitdi width lever: 2 only.
General purpose loot and throat

4$

I I

L N P R

. I mIoI OI Soecia’

Selector setting: A — L through special
Stitch width lever: 2 or 3 maximum.
General purpose throat plate.
General purpose foot or special purpose loot

TWO NEEDLES

miUARY PATTBItNS

40

T A A. • ♦ A nr^ nn A T T Iftk *IW T O

mstmctions for using ATTACHMENTS..

50

NOTE: The attachments which are not regularly furnished with your machine are available
lor separate purchase at your local SINGER SHWLNG CENTRE.

SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT

^ •*.5' ^

BUTTONHOLES

Selector: AL
Stitch width lever: See below

Throat plate: Genera! purpose

This light, flexible foot
is designed for satin-stitch­ing. It provides maximum
visibility and maneuver
ability while allowing
closely spaced zigzag
stitches to feed freelv.

It is ideal for accurate placement of satin stitch
ing in buttonholes, monograms, motifs and applique
work.

The eyelet on the left side of the foot accommod

ates a Mller cord.

APPLICATIONS

Special purpose foot

Stitch length: Fine

To establish the correct stitch setting and length

of buttonhole, a sample must ñrst be made.

Three stitch width lever settings are available.

Fabric weight will determine the selection.

Buttonholes
Applique
Monograms

Decorative Stitching

Couching

Motifs

51

BUTTONHOtHS

Marking

lines

length of

cutting space

Bar tacks anci

side stitching

The length of cutting space, the opening through which the button passes, is measured by the wndth

and thickness of the hxxtton.

The length of the finished buttonhole will be the cutting space plus Vs indi for bar tacks.
Work a sample buttonhole in the same fabric as the garment. Use a double fold, duplicating a facing,

and include interfacing if this has been used.

52

BUTTONHOLBS

Stltcbiag Procediire. Set Seiector and stitdi width lever. Place work under the needle, aligning the

center marking of buttonhole with center score line of foot.

To form side stitching, turn hand wheel toward you so the needle enters fabric at point A. Lower foot
and stitch to end of marking. Leave needle in fabric at point B. Raise foot, pivot work on needle. Lower
foot. Take one stitch without changing stitch width lever setting, bringing work to poird C. Adjust to
stitch width lever setting for bar tadcs and take no less than six stitches. Stop at point D. Readjust to

stitch width lever setting for side stitching. Complete to point B. Move to stitch width lever setting for bar

tacks and duplicate tack previously made, ending at point F.

53

BUTTONHOIBS

Raised or Corded Buttonholes. Both No. 8 pearl
cotton and buttonhole, twist make suitable Eller
cords for raised buttonholes.

Place the spool of filler cord on the second spool
pin. Carry the cord through the first thread guide,
straight down between the center and back tension

discs, into the large thread guide and then through

the eyelet on the Special Purpose Foot. Draw the

cord under and in back of the foot and proceed as

for regular buttonholes.

To secure stitdiing move stitch width lever to
No. 1 setting and take three stitches. Remove work,
draw threads to the underside, fasten and trim.

With sharp embroidery scissors cut opening for
button.

54

APPLIOUB

Applique adds beauty and interest to wearing

apparel, linens and fabric furnishings.

Either contrasting or self fabric may be used
effectively. The most versatile stitch in applique­ing is a closely set zigzag stitch (Primary Pattern
BL). The width of this stitch may be varied to
accommodate weaves and textures of fabrics,
Comibination Patterns and Variations present many
interesting ways to applique with decorative

stitching.

Preparation. There are two methods by which

applique work m.ay be done. The appropriate

Method No. 1. Set Selector and stitch width lever
for the desired stitch pattern. Following the shape
of the design, outline it entirely with applique stit
ching. Any excess fabric on the outer edges is
trimmed away after the stitching has been comple
ted.

method is determined by the fabric being used,
and a test sample is advisable.

Position the design properly and baste it to the
fabric. Attach the Special Purpose Foot to the pres
ser bar.

55

APPLIQUB

Method No. 2, Set Selector and stitch width lever
to AK 3 for straight stitching. Outline the entire
design with a short stitch. Trim

le raw eages

down to the stitching.

Set Selector and stitch width lever to the stitch
pattern desired, and overedge the design with this
stitching. A

smooth, lustrous finish results, which

requires no additional trimming.

Corded Applique. The Special Purpose Foot,
which provides for a filler cord, is perfect for cord­ed applique work. Gimp, crochet thread or button
hole twist are generally used.

See page 54 for threading.

Hither method of appliqueing may be used when
cording is desired. The only change in procedure is
the introduction of the cord, over which the appli
que stitching is formed.

This stitching technique results in a raised,
dimensional effect, and is an ideal finish for lace
applique.

56

MONOGRAMS AND MOTIFS

Any of the many stitch patterns are perfect for

monograms and motifs.

Select a design from the mmny transfer patterns

available or sketch one to suit yoixr purpose.

Some fabrics may require a backing of lawn or

organdy.

Position the design on the right side of the
material. Trim backing away when stitching is
completed, if necessary.

To reproduce a specific portion of a stitch pat­tern, first stitch on a scrap of material until the
desired point in the design is reached.

Remove the material from under the presser foot.
Now position motif or monogram under the needle.
Lower presser foot and stitch.

This procedure is recommended for all precise
design placement. Leaves, and flower petals, for
example are created in this way.

57

SEAMING SHEERS

Selector: BL
Stitdi widtE lever: 2
Throat plate: General Purpose
Special purpose foot
Stitch length: Fine (above 20)

A dainty hair-line finish is particularly desirable for the inside seams of sheer collars, facings and

yokes. Seam allowances that ordinarily show through are eliminated.

Both heavy duty thread and tatting thread make suitable filler cords (see page 54 for threading).

Follow the seam outline covering the cord. Cut away seam allowance close to line of stitdiing.
Turn and press.

COUCHING

Novel effects are obtained by couching gimp,

yarn or braid with stiidi patterns.

Spaced patterns are the most appropriate as
they allow the decorative cords to show as part
of the design.

The Special Purpose Foot is ideally suited to
this work.

lACB EDGING AND INSERTION

Delicate and durable zigzag stitching is espe

cially appropriate for the application of lace

edgings and insertions.

Many decorative stitch patterns can be used

effectively serving as both finish and trim.

» S • /MM«,

, 'A

\

riti.

%rr ".■■■ -i

^ -

'A

' ''

V ■

• '

59

ed.

The foot is used in connection with the Generel

Purpose reed Cover Plate.

Selector setting: AI.
Stitch width lever: 1 and 4
Feed Cover Plate
Button sewing foot
Stitdh length: above 20

Space between holes in button determines stitch width lever settings. Numbers I and 4 generally

anniv to standard buttons. Number 1 setting is constant, but 4 can be increased or decreased to accom*-

modate buttons with unusual spacing.

Set Selector at Ai and stitdi width, lever at I. Attach feed cover plate to machine in place of regular

throat plate in same manner as instmcted on page 21.

Position button under foot so that needle will enter into left hole. Lower foot. Turn hand wheel toward

you until needle rises out of fabric and is just above foot.

60

BUTTON SEWING FOOT

Set stitch width lever at 4. The needle should then
enter into the right hole of the button. Take appro
ximately six zigzag stitches in this position. End on
the left side.

To fasten stitching, adjust to number one stitch

width lever setting and take approximately three

stitches.

THREAD SHANK

In order to form a shank, stitching is done ovpr
a regular machine needle. Position button and lower
button foot. Place needle in the groove of the foot
so the point enters the hole,

A larger shank results when the heavy end of

the needle is utilized.

61

GENERAL PURPOSE FOOT

Used with the general purpose throat plate this

foot provides a wide needle slot which accommo

C -3 -a a it O *3 <i- ^ ■■■i ii ix ii y>

SBAMS

ONGBRIE SBAMS

Dainty lingerie seams are made durable and rip-

proof with zigzag stitching (BL 2V2), After straight

stitching the fitted seam on the wrong side, press
both seam allowances in the same direction. From
the right side, top stitch with a fine zigzag setting,
letting the needle enter the seam line and then the

seam thickness. Particularly good where fiat bias

seams are desired.

dates all stitch settings and can be used for most
sewing operations.

APPLICATIONS

Seams and Darts

Mending and Maintenance

Mi

Automatic Scalloping

Seam Finishes

62

%

%

%

%

SBAMS

FLAT FSIIED SHAMS

Zigzag stitching gives strength and durability to

flat felled seams.

Form the seam to the right side of the fabric,

taking full seam allowance, using a zigzag stitch

(BL 3).

Press the seam open, then fold and press the two
edges together, keeping the right side of the zig
zag stitch uppermost.

Trim a wav half the under seam edge.

•A V*

Fold the upper seam edge evenly over the trim

med seam, and top stitch.

KNIT FABRIC SHAMS

A fine zigzag stitch (BL iVi) is ideal for seaming
knit fabrics. Particularly desirable for underarm
seams and other seams where elasticity and give
are needed.

For neckline and waistline seams, where a stav
is needed to prevent undue stretching, this same
stitch can be used to apply seam tape. To insure
a flat, smooth finish, position the seam tape with
the edge exactly on the seam line. If seam is cur
ved, pre-shape tape to fit by steamhng, and baste
in place.

Stitch, allowing the needle alternately to enter
the seam tape and seam line.

SEAM FINISHES

Seam edges support the garment and should be given a durable finish where fabrics have a tendency

to ravel.

The zig/cag stitch BL is ideal for sucn finishing. Place the stitching near the edge of the seam allowance,

and then trim away excess fabric.

For an overedged seam, the blind stitch 30 makes a durable bulkless finish. Good for straight grain,

lengthwise seams.

Seam edges should be trimmed evenly, and the stitch then form^ed over the raw' edge.

0ARTS

Darts provide fit and contour in a garment and

should be accurately stitched.

A straight stitch dart (AK 3) is usually formed
by stitching from the seam edge, tapering gradually
to the point, where the last 3 or 4 stitches parallel
the fold. Stitch beyond'the fabric to form a thread
chain V2 to V-4 inch in length. Tie the thread ends
into a single knot close to the stitching.

SINGIB THREAD DARTS ,

Darts add styling and interest when stitched with
the fold to the outside of garment. Thread ends
at the point of the dart are eliminated when the
single thread principle is employed.

Unthread the needle, use the thread leading off
the bobbin and rethread the needle from back
to front. Tie bobbin and upper threads together.

Draw bobbin thread up through, threading points,
winding enough on the spool to complete a single
dart. Lower the needle into the very edge of the
fold at the point of the dart. Take any slack out of
the thread by turning the spool. Lower the presser
foot and stitch carefullv toward the seam edae.

* V

This method is also ideal for inside darts in sheer
fabrics as thread ends are eliminated at the point
of the dart.

f 'j

h

65

DARTS IN INTERFACING

Non-woven interfacings can be shaped withoat

bulk with гigгag stitching. Selector setting BL or

BQ may be used.

Cut out the dart allo'wance on the stitching line

and bring the raw edges together. Pin, over a

muslin stay, and stitch. Back stitch at both ends.

BLANKET BINDING

T

The multiple stitdi zigzag (BQ) is an excellent

stitch for applying blanket bindings and affords
both a decorative and durable hnish. Rem.ove worn
binding. Baste new binding securely in place and
stitch. Adjust pressure if necessary, to accommo
date the thickness <of the blanket.

66

I I »1 ■ Hw 11 i|i I in ■ I

MINDING

Zigzag stitching is well suited for all types of
household mending. Selector setting 30 provides
a firm, flexible bond for the repair of rents and
tears, and is ideal for the reinforcement and appH*
cation of elastic. Stitch length and are regu

lated according to need.

Rent or Tear. Trim* away ragged edges. Place
an underlay to the wrong side of the tear for
reinforcement. Using the multiple stitch zigzag

(BQ) follow the line of the tear bringing the edges
together. Shorten the stitch length at ends and
corners to give extra strength.

vV\AA/>/v^AVv'^/vVVvVvWVv\A,V\A

I I

'v

i/ f

\—f

J'

r*v
W'

Application of Ilastic.
Elastic, such as used in
waist bands, must be
stretched as it is applied,
to insure fullness requir­ed in the garment.

^ 'V ■

X.

•• • ' 's •

^ -'■v'

67

SCAIiOPING

Dainty scalloped edges are used extensively as self trimming on blouses, cresses, lingerie and child

ren’s wear.

Perfectly formed and evenly spaced scallops are produced automatically at Selector Settings BE and

BS ®

BR results in a I2-stit<m scallop.
BS a 24-stitch scallop.
Stitch regulator and stitdr width lever settings vary the length and depth of the scallop.
After stitching, trim seam allowance to less than Vs" and clip into the points between scallops.
Some fabrics may also need notching, for a smooth, evenly turned edge.

Turn, gently roll out scallops between the hngers and press.

When scalloping a shaped or bias edge it is best to use an interfacing.
When forming scalloped tucks, add an extra to tuck allowance for seaming.

THB SHAM GUIDE

The seam guide aids in
attaining uniformity of
seam width. It provides

for stitching to be spaced at any distance between
Vs'' to IV4" from the edge of the fabric.

SEAMS

To guide seam stitching straight and parallel to
the edge of the fabric, adjust the attachment for
proper seam width. Align the guide with the pres
sor foot. (Set Selector at AK, stitch width lever at 3.)

Pin seam edges and baste if necessary. Hand
basting can be eliminated on easy-io-handle fabrics.
Place pins with the points toward the seam edge
so they nip into the fabric at the stitching line.
The hinged presser foot will ride freely over the
points. Guide the fabric edges lightly against the
guide while stitching.

APPOCATIONS

Seams

Top Stitching

Decorative Stitching

Blind Stitching

The attachment is used in connection with a

presser foot.

It is secured to the bed of the machine in either

of the threaded holes to the right of the needle.

b

i ..=i

69

CURVED SHAMS

TOR STITCHING

Curved seams require additional treatment in
handling. A shorter stitch will provide greater
elasticity and strength. Set the attachment at an
angle so that the end closest to the needle acts

as a guide.

A simple and practical way to accent the lines

of a garment and at the same time give additional

firmness.

Hither single or multiple rows of stitching can

be expertly placed along lapels and facing e<

around collars and pockets and as a hem finish.

A subtle enect may oe acmevec oy using straight
stitching, or a decorative touch may be added by
using any of the attractive stitch patterns accom
plished with this machine.

70

BLIND STITCHBD HBMS

Selector: BO

Stitdi width lever: 2—5
Stitch length: 10—20
Presser foot: General purpose
Throat plate: General purpose

Seam guide

Blind stitching provides a durable hem finish
that is almost invisible, and comparable to hand
sewing. It is equally suited to straight as well as

circular hems. Taped, bound, turned or unfinished

hem edges can all be blind stitched with equal ease,

Mark, turn and press the hem in the usnal way.
Place a basting guide line approximately from
top hem edge.

Set Selector at BO. This setting produces four

straight stitches, separated by a single sideward

stitch to the left.

Stitch width lever setting for width of stitch is
determined by the weight and texture of the fabric
used.

Place the hem edge over the feed of the macrine,
turn back the bulk of the fabric to the line of bast
ing, creating a soft fold.

Position the work so that the straight stitches are
made on the hem edge and the sideward stitches
pierce the fold.

The stitch length will regulate the distance bet

ween the blind stitches (10 to 20 stitches per inch).

Adjust the seam guide over the right toe of the
foot until it rests next to the soft fold. While
stitching, feed the fold against the flat of the guide.

A test sample in self fabric should be made to
determine correct settings.

THE ZIPFER FOOT

©

^ <5

iS 1S iS

This foot is designed to facilitate the placement of stitching close
to a raised edge. The hinged feature of this foot insures even feeding
over oins, heavy lavers of fabric or cross seams. It is attached to the

machine in place of the regular presser foot, and may be adjusted to
either the right or left side of the needle. Straight stitch or zigzag
settings mav be used.

^ A

APPLICATIONS
Zipper Insertions Tabular Coidmg
Corded Seams

Preparation. Secure the zipper foot to the presser

bar as you would the regular presser foot. Set Selec

tor and stitch width lever. Adjustment to the right

or left of the needle is made by loosening the
72

Slip Cover Welting

thumb screw at the bach. Check the position of the
foot bv lowering the needle into the side notch,
making sure it clears the foot. Lock it into position

by tightening the thumb screw.

ZIPPER INSERTION

Selector: AK
Stitch width lever: 3
Throat plate: General purpose
Zipper foot

Skirt Zipper. Machine baste the placket opening
of the skirt and press this seam open. Attach the
zipper foot to the machine and position it to the
right of the needle. Open the zipper. Place the
zipner face down on the seam allowance with the
edge of the teeth at the seam line. Turn the back
seam allowance away from the body of the skirt.
Stitch the zipper tape to the seam allowance.

ZlWm INSERTION

Move the foot to the left. Close the zipper and

turn it face up. Smooth back the seam allowance

at the edge of the zipper. Top stitch it to the tape
close to the folded edce.

Tarn zipper face down. Turn work to right side
and pin in place. Baste. Move the foot to the right.
Stitch across the lower end of the zipper and up
to the waistline. Remove basting.

BLIND STITCHED ZIP FASTBNBH INSERTION

Selector setting: BO
Stitch width lever: 2V2 or 3
Throat plate: General purpose
Stitch length: 12
Cording foot

Blind stitching the final step of a zip insertion
results in a fine finish that is almost invisible and
comparable to hand sewing. Particularly suitable
for chiffons, sheers, velvets and all delicate fabrics
where top stitching would be too harsh.

Allow a Vs" seam allowance. Start the insertion
in the regular way but omit final step.

Work from the right side of the garment and pin

the front of the zip tape into position.

Roll the work over hnger to ease fabric and nin

V A-

through ail thicknesses. Baste about Vs" from seam
line to provide guide for blind stitching. Remove
Dins.

Set stitch and adjust cording foot to the right

side of the needle.

Turn garment inside out. Place zip tape over
feed of machine and turn back the front section of
garm>ent to line of basting, creating a soft fold.
Position work so that the straight line of stitering

is made through front seam allowance and zip tape,
and the sicewmys stitdi pierces a few threads of the
fold. Lowmi presser bar and stitch slowly. Remove
bastings. Press.

75

CORDED WELTING

Selector: AK
Stitdi width lever; 3

Throat plate: General purpose or

Straight stitdi

Zipper foot

Cable cord comes in a variety of sizes and when covered with a hrmly woven fabric makes a corded

welting that is an excellent seam finish.

This welting is prepared in advance and then stitched into the seam. Cut a true bias strip iV« indres
wide, plus three times the width of the cord of either self or contrasting fabric. Sew strips together on
the lengthwise grain to obtain desired length.

Set Selector. Adjust zipper foot to the left side of the needle. Encase the cord in the bias strip, raw
edges even. Lower pressar bar. Stitci close to the cord, using a stitch length slightly longer than for
seaming the weight of fabric being used. Do not crowd the stitching against ^he cord.

/6

COR0BD SHAMS

Selector: AK
Stitdi width lever: 3
Throat plate: Genera! purpose or

Straight stitch

Zipper foot

The corded seam is a typical treatment for slip

covers, children's clothes, blouses and lingerie»

When cording a seam the zipper foot is usually

adjusted to the right of the needle so that the bulk

of the work will fall to the left.

Set Selector and stitch width lever. Attach the

corded welting to the right side of a single seam

edge, with the same stitch length used to make the

welting (page 76). Guide the edge of the foot next
to the cord, but do not crowd.

Place the attached corded welting over the

second seam edge, and pin or baste together.

Keep the Mrst stitching uppermost as a guide and
position the seam under needle. Stitch, this time
crowding the foot against the cord.

This method produces evenly joined seam edges

and tightly set welting.

Curved seams are corded as easily as straight
seams, except that a shorter stitch length is used.
Since the seam allowance of the welting is bias,
it is not difficult to shape it to the seam.

TH£ FOOT HHMMBH

threads under the hemmer. Place the fabric under
the foot and stitch through the creased fold for seve

Fine hems
Edging ruffles
Sheer seams

Throat plate: General purpose
Foot Hemmer

The narrow hemmmr forms
and stitches a perfectly turn
ed hem without, basting or
pressing. It is attached to the
machine in place of the
regular presser foot.

APPIICATIONS

Selector: AK
Stitch width lever: 5

Hemming with lace

Lace insertion

Lingerie hnishes

ral stitches. Hold the thread ends in the left hand
and guide the raw edge in front of the hem.mer
evenly into the scroll. Sew slowly, still holding
thread ends until the hem is well started.

Soft fabrics will enter the scroll best with the foot

down; firm^, crisp materials with the foot raised.

Even feeding is essential to good hemming. The

same width of fabric must be kept in the scroll of

the hemmer at all times. A little practice will result

in perfectly formted hems.

HEMMING

Set Selector and stitdi width lever. At the very
edge of the fabric form a double Vs" fold. Crease
this fold for about 2". Draw the bobbin and needle

78

HEMMING WITH LACB

Selector: Bi
Stitch width lever: 3
Throat plate: Genera! purpose
Foot Hemmer

Most of the popular kinds of lace edging and
insertion can be applied with the Foot Hemmer. It
is an excellent way to trim children's clothes and
to finish lingene hems,

lace Applied Over Hem. Fold and start the hem
in the msual wav. Starting about 1" dowm from the
end of the lace, place the selvage under the needle
and lower needle to hold lace firmly. Raise the foot
slightly and slip the lace under the back portion
of the foot, without disturbing the position of the
fabric. Stitch slowly, guiding the fabric with the
right hand, the lace with the left. Take care not to
stretch the lace,

lace Applied Under Hem. When using lace
underneath the fold of a hem, the procedure is the
$am*e as when making a hemmed seam. Slip the
lace in from the left as you w'ould the second piece
of fabric. This method is used where a neat finish
is desired on both sides of the material.

DBCORATIVH HEMS

Selector: AH settings

Throat plate: Genera! purpose

Stitch width lever: 2 thru $
Foot Hemmer

Narrow hem edges can be turned and decorated
in one operation using the foot hemmer and a
stitch pattern.

This time-saving finish is especially suited to

fie edges and aprons.

Lingerie and most delicate fabrics can be attrac

tively finished with a soft shell edge. This effect

is obtained by hemming with Selector set at BO

or BQ and stitch width lever at 4.

l*‘^l

................

.........

,,|,||T> i<*n

_______

<*fwMIIII^ ^l|

..........

eo

YVry-'

V .>» y

\ V j I . i ■•■ V \ i:i VU' I ; V, '. /. iii ■' V V:'^ \ i ■ /' '■ ■' ■ ''• ^ ^ ''■■''i'’ '■ ■ \ t ■'

I-Xi!' \ I ^1 W

M i ' '■ «' . I \ ' V

Mum-SIOTTEB BLNBBH

Slot for

folded

Adjusting

lug

bias tape

Guide

pins

Scroll for

unfolded

binding

Selector: All settings

Stitch width lever: 2 thru 5
Throat plate: General purpose
Multi-slotted binder

The multi-slotted binder is used to apply com

mercial binding as well as self fabric bias to an

unfinished edge.

Cut binding diagonally to form a long point.
Commercial binding 1$ inserted from the right into
the appropriate slot in the scroll. Unfolded bias
of an inch wide is inserted into the opening at the
end of the scroll.

Pull binding through scroll until the evenly
folded edges are under the needle. The free length
of the binding is held between the guide pins.

Set Selector and stitch width lever for either

straight or zigzag stitching.

Insert the edge to be bound into the centre of
the scroll. The stitching is positioned dose to the
edge of the binding by moving the scroll portion
of the attachment to the right or left by means of
the adjusting lug.

This colourful trim is attractive when applied to
children's wear, aprons and fabric furnishings. It is
a practical finish for seam edges that ravel and for

making bound seams.

The attadiment will accommodate both straight

and zigzag siitcfeing.

8

MULT!>SIÒTTED BINDER

Lower the pressor bar. Allow the attachment to do the work, merely guiding the fabric into the centre

of the scroll as you stitch.

Curved edges require slightly different fabric handling than straight edges.
Inside curves are straightened as they are fed into the binder. If the fabric is soft and has a tendency

to stretdi, reinforce tlie edge with a single row of stitching before binding.

Outside curves tend to lead awmy from the centre slot of the scroll and should he guided so that a full

seam width is taken at the needle point. Do not attempt to pull or straighten fabric into the full length

of the scroll.

82

THE RUFFLBH

Fork

Arm

presser
Bar

Separator

Blade

^uiflixig

Blade

Separator

Guide

Adjusling

Lever

Adjusting

Finger

Adjusting

Screw

Selector: AK
Stitch width lever: 3
Throat plate: Straight stitch
Ruffler

Adjusting Points. 1. The adjusting lever sets the
ruiiler lor gathers or pleats. The Number 1 space
setting Is for gathers, and places fullness at every

stitch. Numbers 6 and 12 are soace settings for
pleats, spacing them either 6 or 12 stitches apart.
The star is for straight stitching, and is used when
grouping gathers or pleats.

2. The adjusting finger is used only lor pleating
and affects the width of the pleat. It is thrown out
of action by bringing it out of contact with the
adjusting screw.

This attachment offers a simple and effective way
to make gathered and pleated raffles. Ruffles may
be made separately or mace and applied at the
same time. The ruffler is attached to the machine
m place ot tne regular presser foot anci is used
with a straight stitch setting only.

3. The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of
gathers or pleats. When turned in to its limit with
the adjusting finger in place, the attachment is set
for its deepest pleat. When turned outward to its
limit and the adjusting finger out of action, the
ruffler gives only a hint of fullness.

$3

THE WV¥Lm

Activating Parts* The rufiling Made and the
separator blade are of blue steel and hold the
material to be gathered between them. The rnillmg
Made forms the gathers or pleats by carrying the
fabric to the needle according to the spacing and
fullness to which the rufOer is adjusted. The sepa
rator guide is slotted to guide seam edges evenly

and to separate the ruffle strip from the material to

which the ruffle is attached*

Gathering. Set the adjusting lever of the attach
ment on Number 1 setting, and throw the adjusting
hnger out of action. Turn the adjusting screw for
the amount of fullness desired and set the stitch
length to space the fullness. The attachment is
adjusted for maximum fullness by turning the
adjusting screw all the way inj for less fullness
turn it outward.

Preparation* Raise the needle to its highest point.

Locate the attachment on the machine in place

of the regular pressor foot, at the sarnie time fit the
fork arm over the needle clamp screw. Make sure
both the presser bar screw and the needle clamp
screw are tightened securely.

84

THE RÜFFLER

The length of the sowing machine stitch also
affects ruffle fullness. Since a given attachment
setting puts an equal amount of fullness into each
stitch regardless of its length, shortening the stitch
(more studies to the inch) makes the ruffle more
full, lengthening the stitdi (few stitches to the inch)

makes it less full For fine, closely spaced gathering
use a short stitdi and an outward adjustment of
the adjusting screw. For deeper, less closely spaced
gathering, turn the adjusting screw inward and use
a medium length stitch.

Material

Attaching Ruffle. To form and attach a ruffle in

one operation, place the ruffle strip between the

two blue blades and through the first separator

guide, and the material to which it is to be attached

Ruffling

Materia!

Ganneut

between the separator blade and the feed of the

machine. Proceed as for plain gathering. Right sides

of the fabric are placed together when the seam

is to fall to the inside.

Insert the material to be gathered between thé
blue blades and through the first separator guide.
Draw to the back of the needle. Lower the presser
bar and stitch. The texture of the fabric influences
the performance of the ruffler as well as the results.
Soft fabrics, cut on the crosswise grain, are best
adapted for gathered ruffles. Always test stitch
length and ruffler setting on a scrap of self fabric
before proceeding with the actual work.

THE RUFFIER

Pleating. Move the adjusting lever of the ruffler

to the space setting desired for pleats either 6 or

12 stitches apart.

For the deepest pleat, activate the adjusting
finger and turn the adjusting screw inward to its
maximum setting. For smaller pleats turn the

adjusting screw outward.

Set stitch length. A short stitch places the pleats
more closely together? a long stitch separates the

pleats for a greater distance.

Insert the fabric to be pleated between the blue

blades and into the first separator guide. Lower
oresser bar and stitch.

Crisp fabrics cut on the crosswise grain formA the

sharpest pleats. Glazed fabrics handle besi

if

the

glazed side is downward and the soft backing is

lext to the rum

Diaae.

Group Pleating. By using the star setting (straight
stitdiing) alternately with the 6 or 12 stitch setting,
pleats are formed in groups. Even spacing betweeli
groups is accomplished by counting the number of
stitches.

86

DARNING AND EMBROIDERY FOOT

This attachment is an aid to
all who desire perfection in free
motion darning and embroidery
work.

The foot hrmly holds the fabric
as the needle enters and rises
from the work, while fully re­vealing the line of design to be
followed.

Free motion work darning

Straight stitch setting: AK 3

\

# Position work under needle and lower presser

bar. Hold needle thread loosely with left hand,
turn hand wheel over and draw bobbin thread
up through fabric. Hold both thread ends and
lower needle into fabric.

# Outline opening with running stitches Va'* from

edge for remtorcement.

Feed cover plate
Darning and embroidery foot
Stitch length: Approximately 20

Trim ragged edges from area to be darned.

Centre worn section in embroidery hoops.
Attach feed cover plate to machine bed in place

of regular throat plate.
Locate darning and embroidery foot on presser

bar with lifting finger over needle clamp screw.

# Stitch across opening, moving hoops under need

le at a slight angle, from lower left to upper right.

Keep lines of stitching closely and evenly spaced.

# When opening is hlled, turn work 90^' and con

tinue stitching until darn is completed.

# Run machine at moderate speed and control

hoops with a steady continuous movement Slow
movement of hoops will produce a short stitch;
more rapid movement lengthens the stitdi.

Fairly long stitches are best for knit and tricot
fabrics; short stitches are best for cottons and
linens as they approximate weave of fabric,

$7

FREE MOTION WORK

Selector: BL

Stitdi width lever: 2—5
Feed cover plate
Presser Foot: None

Script monoarams, satin stitdied scalloPS and ■■ • A. л/* \ ^ '

v.4,^ ЧЛ V. с1>цста the effect of a narrower stitch

When scalloping is used as an edge finish, allow

sufficient margin of fabric beyond the desired edge
to fit the hoop. To maintain parallel stitches, scab
lops are followed without turning, the work

remaining in line with the feed at all times. The
points of the scallops are formed by lightly moving

the work to the right or left, automaticallv pro**

embroidery can be e^ectively accomplished with
the 2ig%ag stitch when the free vaoiion principle is
em* ployed.

Trace or mark the design on the right side of
the fabric. Place the work in embroidery hoops,
keeping the fabric taut.

Some fabrics may require the addition of an
underlay of crisp muslin or organdy. The darning
and embroidery foot (available separately) will
also contribute to the smmoth handling of difficult
m^aterials as it provides a close control of both

St ltd anc tannc.

Remove the pressor foot an attach feed cover
plate to machine bed in place of regular throat
plate. Set Selector at BL and stitch width lever at
desired setting.

Position the work under the needle and lower
the presser bar to activate the tension. Bring the
bobbin thread up through the fabric. Hold both
thread ends and start stitdiing after positioning
needle in fabric.

Move the hoops slowly following the outline of
the design. Maintain an even rate of speed so that
the stitches are uniformly placed. Shading the
stitches from wide to narrow is controlled by the
angle at which the work is placed and moved under
the needle.

ea

DECORATIVE STITCH PATTERNS

Examples of Stitch Patterns and their Selector Settings

f*®? ,

«E Im» te w

DS (5) 2

DS (D 3

EP2

F02

W№r jBK

1^ w'Li

FR2

FS (D 3

DECORATIVE STITCH PATTERNS

Examples of Stitch Patterns and their Selector Settings

GM 4

XyAwMPiP^ LpA«w*^ i*>V..wA W\p»*-.pV v*

^**A**»Afc Z**^*"'**^

GP 4

GS (2) 2

GS (3) 4

HS (3) 4

112

90

IS (D 4

TO CLEAN THE MACHINE

Your sewing macnine was built to exacting stand

ards of precision and workmanship. Its performance

Clean and
Oil

Clean between
tension discs

depends on the care and treatment it receives when
in use and before storing it away.

When in regular use the machine should be
cleaned periodically to remove the lint and fluff
which may have accumulated around the working
parts. To clean the bobbin case area, see instruc
tions for removing and replacing bobbin case on
pages 92 and 93. Oil the machine after each cleaning
as instructed on pages 94, 95 and 95.

If the machine is to be stored away for an inde

finite period of time, a thorough brush-cleaning
to remove all traces of lint and fluff, followed by
swabbing of all exposed parts with a lint-free brush
saturated with SINGER’^ Oil, is necessary to protect
the machine against rust damage. The areas that
should be cleaned and covered with a protective

Clean and Oil

coat of oil are shown in the illustration at the left.

91

TO RBMOVH AN0 REPLACE BOBBIN CASE

To clean hook raceway, remove bobbin case as

follows:

1. Remove throat plate (see page 21] and open

slide plate (see page 15).

2. Unlock bobbin case by lifting and pulling

holder to right as shown,

3. Remove bobbin case from machine.
4- Remove all lint, fluff, loose thread ends or any

other foreign matter which might clog the miachine.

92

POSITIONING

STUD

TO REMOVE AND REPLACE BOBBIN CASE

5. Replace bobbin case so that groove under tension spring fits on hook raceway and
straddles positioning stud.

6. Push bobbin case holder to left as shown until it snaps down into lock position.

7. Close bed slide and replace throat plate.

ot case

93

TO tVmiCATE THE MACHINE

Use SINGER Oil and SINGER Lubricant!

Both are extra quality products especially pre
pared for sewing machines, and should always be
used in the care of vour 611.

ean the macnine periodically as instructed on

page 91.
94

!>rti

Apply a drop of oil to each place indicated.
Remove screw A and lift arm top cover slightly

and slide off toward left and away from machine.

The thread take-up lever must be in its lowest

position.

Apply a small amount of lubricant to the gears

as shown.

A tube of this lubricant can be purchased at your

Singer Sewing Centre.

Never apply Oil to these gears.

open slide plate and apply a drop of oil to the

hook raceway as indicated.

Close slide plate, replace arm top cover and

close face plate.

95

Oil each of places indicated by arrows and occasionally apply a small quantity of lubricant to teeth
of gears as shown.

Replace bottom cover.

THE MOTOR REQUIRES NO LUBRICATION.

96

HIHCTRICAL INFORMATION

The SINGER* Electric Motor in the electric ma
chine is furnished for operation on an alternating
or dire« corree., Orderi =.oe. ete.e .de c.elogo’
number of the motor, or the voltage, and in the
case of alternating current, the number of cycles.

Before Inserting Electric Plug A, be sure that
voltage and cvcles stamned on electrical name­plate B are within range marked on your electric
m.eter installed by your power company.

Electrical Connections for Machine. Push 3-pin
terminal plug C on 3-pin terminal block at right of

machine and connect plug A at other end of cord

to electric outlet.

Speed Controller. The speed of machine is regu

lated by amount of pressure on the pedal of the
foot controller D.

9?

To replace Singer Bnlb.

Disconnect plug from electrical outlet before ma

king bulb replacement.

SINGHR IIGHT

With thumb of right hand push in and down on

tab of light lens (see Illustration).

LOCKS

BULB

UNLOCKS

: :

U* :

Hi

Do not attempt to unscrew bulb, press it into
socket and at same time turn bulb over in direction
shown to unlock bulb pin G, then withdraw bulb.

Press new bulb into socket with bulb pin G enter
ing slot of socket and turn it over in direction shown
to lock bulb pin G in proper position.

The light is turned ''on" or "off" by the switch F,