SINGER 404K User Manual
SINGER
15k 66k 201k 99k 185k 327k 328k 329k 404k
A Manual of
Family
ng
ines
PREFACE
HE great aim in education is to equip the scholar for his or her future
T
instruct her in the care and use of the family Sewing Machine so that she can
use it to the best advantage.
ability to plan and make smart, attractive clothes for herself and for her
family as well as being able to furnish her home with curtains, chair covers
and all kinds of beautiful accessories, will provide her with great satisfaction
and pleasure.
use of the modern Sewing Machine and its various attachments. Garments
can be made with a professional finish for about half the cost of a similar
ready-made garment. There are many excellent paper patterns available
featuring up-to-date styles for every age, some are specially designed for the
beginner and others fulfil the requirements of the more experienced home
dressmaker. Glossy magazines print a steady flow of ideas for making the
home beautiful, many of which are suitable for machine sewing.
career. To the girl interested in household economics the Sewing
Machine offers wonderful possibilities. The job of this booklet is to
A large part of the family income is usually spent by the woman, and her
Successful home sewing is in the reach of anyone making the fullest possible
With the introduction of the Slant-O-Matic, Zig-Zag Stitch and Automatic
Embroidery, a whole new vista of sewing skills emerge, it is not surprising,
therefore, that the woman of today is becoming interested in home sewing.
The modern electric sewing machine makes needlework a pleasure and by
using the attachments supplied, fascinating trimmings can be achieved in a
fraction of the time previously required.
The instruction contained in this booklet shows you how to use your
sewing machine and to take proper care of it, so that you may obtain the
greatest benefit.
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE CARE AND OPERATION OF FAMILY SEWING MACHINES
The Principal Parts of Lock Stitch Sewing Machines
and Their Uses.
PRESSURE REGULATING
ARM
SPOOL PIN
HAND WHEEL
Fig. 1. Prinxipal Parts of the Head.
Head—the part above the table (Fig. 1) containing the stitching mechanism.
Arm—the curved part of the head containing the mechanism for driving the
needle and handling the upper thread.
Bed—the flat portion of the head, under which is mounted the feeding mechan
ism and that for controlling the lower thread.
Hand Wheel—the wheel at the right of the head driven by the belt.
Bobbin Winder—the mechanism for automatically winding bobbins.
Stitch Regulator—the device which controls the length of the stitch.
Upper Tension—the means for controlling the delivery of the upper thread
from the spool.
Thread Take-up Lever—the part which pulls up the slack thread and locks
the stitch.
Needle Bar—the vertical bar in the lower end of which the needle is inserted.
Presser Bar—the vertical bar to which the presser foot is attached.
Face Plate—the vertical plate on the left of the arm, which may be removed
to give access to the needle bar, presser bar and take-up.
Throat Plate—the plate in the bed directly below the presser foot through
which the needle passes and the feed dog moves.
Feed Dog—the toothed part which projects upward through slots in the
throat plate, carrying the fabric from the operator at each stitch. The
movement of the feed dog is controlled by the stitch regulator which
determines the desired length of stitch.
Bed Slide—the flat plate or plates at the left of the bed, which may be
opened to give access to the shuttle or bobbin case and other parts of
the lower stitch-forming mechanism.
Bobbin—the spool on which thread is wound to furnish the lower or shuttle
thread supply.
Shuttle or Bobbin Case—the container in which the bobbin is placed and
around which the loop of the needle thread is passed in forming the
lock stitch.
Rotary or Oscillating Hook—the part which enters the loop of needle
thread and carries it around the bobbin case. In the long-bobbin
machine (Singer No. 128) this function is performed by the shuttle,
which also acts as a bobbin case.
Lower Tension—the spring on the shuttle or bobbin case, which controls the
tension on the thread from the bobbin.
Cabinet Work—all the wood parts.
Stand—the supports and driving parts on which the cabinet work is mounted.
Treadle—the platform rocked up and down with the feet to operate the
machine.
Pitman—the rod connecting the treadle and the band wheel.
LEG
BELT GUIDE
BAND
WHEEL
BELT
SHIFTER
DRESS
GUARD
PITMAN
TREADLE
Fig. 2. Principal Parts of the Cabinet Table Stand.
4
Band Wheel—the large wheel with a groove in which the belt runs, mounted
on the band wheel crank and rotated by the up and down motion of
the pitman.
Belt Shifter—the lever at the front of the band wheel, which may be turned
to the left to throw the belt off the wheel. The belt may be replaced
automatically by treadling, this action being accomplished by a pro
jection on the side of the band wheel, assisted by the belt guide in
the rear.
Legs—the upright members which support the table.
Dress Guard—the shield in front of the band wheel protecting the operator’s
clothing.
Formation of the Lock Stitch.
The lock stitch made by sewing machines consists of an upper or needle
thread and an under or bobbin thread locked together in the material which is
being stitched, the lock being formed by passing the upper around the lower
thread and tightening them together in the middle of the fabric.
^sxBBXzrea
Fig. 3.
When a stitch has been completed and before each succeeding stitch is
commenced, the fabric being stitched is carried from the needle by the feeding
mechanism, and upon the length of its movement depends the length of the
stitch.
The presser foot rests upon the fabric, prevents it from rising with the
needle and holds it in contact with the feed dog while the feeding takes place.
The section of the foot which presses on the cloth is slotted so that the view
of the stitching may not be obstructed.
PRACTICE for BEGINNERS
The beginner should acquire a knowledge of the various parts of the
sewing machine and the purpose of each, in order to give the machine proper
care and to obtain the best results from it. It is essential that practice
precede actual sewing on the machine. For this practice the upper thread and
bobbin should be removed from the machine and the presser foot raised. The
operator should be equipped with a chair high enough to allow her to sit
comfortably and squarely in front of the machine directly in line with the
needle.
Whether the machine is electric or treadle controlled it is essential that the
operator should continue practising until she is able to start smoothly and
have an easy control at varying speeds.
Electric Machine. See that the foot control is placed in such a position
on the floor that the foot can rest comfortably on it. Press lightly on the
control knob with the toe to test the amount of pressure needed for varying
speeds before threading up and starting to sew.
Treadle Machine. The operator should sit squarely in front of the
machine with the feet placed comfortably on the treadle. The right foot
should be placed forward and the left backward so that the pressure on the
treadle is with the ball of the foot.
Practice for Beginners—(Continued)
The hand wheel should receive a start with the right hand at the same
time as pressure is applied to the treadle. In the case of family sewing
machines of the lock-stitch type, the hand wheel should turn from the top
towards the operator.
This practice should be continued until an easy method of treadling is
acquired and the operator is able to start the machine and keep it running
smoothly.
Note. During this practice and whenever a sewing machine is run with
out sewing, the needle should be unthreaded and the presser foot raised so
that it is not in contact with the feed.
Practise Straight Stitching with Paper.
It is well to practise straight stitching with paper and without thread
until the operator can follow a line with ease before actually sewing, as crooked
Fig. 4. S.^mples of Stitching.
F'ig. 5- Pr.^ctice on Paper.
stitching will ruin a garment. Provide a few sheets of pad paper measuring
about six by nine inches, and with a pencil and ruler draw lines thereon
lengthwise about a quarter of an inch apart. Practise following these lines
with stitching until perfect results are obtained. See Fig. 4.
The next practice should be with a sheet of paper of the same size. Begin
by stitching along one edge, keeping the edge of the paper even with the
right-hand edge of the presser foot. When near the corner, stop the machine
with the needle in the paper, raise the presser bar and turn thè paper ready
to stitch along the next side ; continue along the two remaining sides of the
paper and then use the first line of stitching as a guide, making a similar
pattern to that shown in Fig. 5. This gives practice in turning corners, as
well as in making a straight line of stitching by using the edge of the presser
foot as a guide. A medium length of stitch should be used for this practice.
By following these suggestions the beginner will acquire a sufficient
knowledge of speed and control of the machine to enable her to proceed with
actual stitching.
6
Know the Model Number of Your Machine.
To make full use of the instruction contained in this book, it will be to
your advantage to know the model number of the Sewing Machine you are
using. On all except the oldest Singer Machines, the model number will be
found printed on a small plate near the Singer trademark to the right hand
side of the machine head.
Fig. 6. Machin e Model Numbers.
PREPARING THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Adjusting the Stop Motion Screw for
Winding Bobbins.
In preparing to sew with the machine,
first see that the bobbin is wound with
thread of suitable size for the material to
be sewn (see page 11).
It is necessary to understand the stop
motion of the machine by which the hand
wheel can be released when winding bobbins,
thus permitting the winder to operate with
Fig. 7. Releasing the Stop Motion.
wheel and turn the stop motion screw over towards you, as shown in Fig. 7.
out running the stitching mechanism. To
release the stop motion, hold the hand
To Wind the Bobbin—Machines 15K80, 15K110 and 201K.
Loosen stop motion screw.
Place empty bobbin on
spindle.
Place spool of thread on spool
pin.
Thread machine as shown in
Fig. 8.
Hold end of thread and start
machine.
Break off end of thread after a
few coils have been wound on
bobbin and restart machine
until bobbin is filled when
winder will stop automatical-
ly-
To Increase Pressure of
Rubber Ring against hand
wheel—
# Press down winder until latch
(4) drops down and holds it.
Then loosen screw (5).
# Push back upper end of
slotted plate (see inset, Fig. 8)
as far as it will go and at same
time press winder against
hand wheel.
• Tighten screw (5).
• Raise latch to release winder.
Fig. 8.
To Wind the Bobbin—Machine 99K (New Style),
Loosen stop motion screw.
Place empty bobbin on winder
spindle.
Turn bobbin until hole in
right side engages pin in
spindle.
Press winder down until latch
engages.
Place spool of thread on spool
pin.
I Thread machine as shown in
Fig. 9.
) Hold end of thread and start
machine. (End of thread will
break off after a few coils have
been wound on bobbin).
) When bobbin is full, winder
will stop automatically.
► Remove bobbin and retighten
stop motion screw.
Fig. 9.
To Wind the Bobbin—Machines 185K and 327K
• Loosen stop motion
screw.
• Place empty bobbin on
spindle.
• Press bobbin winder
down against hand
wheel.
• Thread machine as
shown in Fig. 10.
• Hold thread end and
start machine.
• When bobbin is full,
stop machine.
• Lift bobbin winder
away from hand wheel
and remove bobbin.
• Tighten stop motion
screw.
Fig. 10.
To Wind the Bobbin—Machines 328K and 329K.
• Loosen stop motion screw.
• Place empty bobbin on
spindle.
• Press bobbin winder down
against hand wheel.
• Place spool of thread on
spool pin.
• Thread between tension discs
and through bobbin as shown
in Fig. 11.
• Hold end of thread and start
machine. (End of thread will
break off after a few coils have
been wound on bobbin).
When Bobbin is Full
• Stop machine.
• Lift bobbin winder away
from hand wheel and remove
bobbin.
• Tighten stop motion screw. Fig. ij.
""""""""
To Wind the Bobbin—Machine 404.
• Loosen stop motion
screw.
• Place bobbin on
spindle.
• Pull out bobbin
winder engaging
slide as shown in
Fig. 12.
.
Fig. ]2.
• Place spool of thread
on spool pin and
thread machine as
shown in Fig. 13.
Wind the Bobbins Evenly.
Bobbins must be wound evenly in order that they may work properly in
the machine. In winding them, see that the thread is placed smoothly and
evenly. A correctly wound bobbin will insure the thread running smoothly
from the shuttle and prevent uneven stitching, which may occur if the bobbin
is not properly wound.
15K80,15K110, 99K (New Style), 185K, 201K, 327K, 328K and 329K.
If the thread does not wind evenly on the bobbin, loosen the screw which holds
the bobbin winder tension bracket (see 2, Fig. 8) on the machine bed and
slide the bracket to the right or left as may be required, then tighten the screw.
Always have a sufficient quantity of bobbins on hand and never wind
thread on a partly wound bobbin containing thread of another colour.
Bobbins so wound are usually uneven and cause trouble in the bobbin case.
When a rubber ring becomes worn or oil has come in contact with it, the
ring will not grip the wheel and will slip when winding a bobbin. A worn or
oily ring should be replaced.
Relative Sizes of Needles and Threads.
Needles used. Catalogue 2020 (15 x 1
Types of Fabrics Thr ead Sizes
Filmy Materials
Comparable to Net—
100 Cotton
Marquisette —Chiffon—
Silk—Chiffon Velvet—
Ninon—Nylon Sheers
Sheer Materials
Comparable to Lawn—
80 to 100 Cotton
Organdie—Dimity—Batiste
—Pure Silks—Paper Taffeta
—Silk—Synthetic Tricots—
Synthetic Sheers
Lightw eight Materials
Comparable. to Gingham—
50 to 80 Cotton
Chambray Sheers—Wool
Crêpe—Taffeta—Synthetic
V el ve ts—Satin—Synthe tic
or Wool Jersey
Medium Lightweight
Materials
Comparable to Poplin—
Pique—Percale—Cretonne
50 Mercerised
60 to 80 Cotton
—Chintz—F aille—Bengaline
—Wool Flannel—Crêpe—
Lightweight Suitings
Medium Heavy Materials
Comparable to Cotton
Heavy-Duty Mercer
Vel ve teen—Corduroy—
Gabardine—Rep—Coatings
40 to 50 Cotton
and Heavy Suitings
Heavy Materials
Comparable to Sailcloth—
Heavy-Duty Mercer
Denim—T icking—
Overcoatings
Ver y Heavy Materials
Comparable to Canvas—
30-40 Cotton
40 to 60 Linen
20-24 Cotton
Duck
Plastic Materials
Nylon or
Mercerised Cotton
A Silk
Nylon
A Silk
Nylon
A Silk
Nylon
A Silk
Nylon
ised
A Silk
ised
A Silk
Machin e
Needle
Sizes
0
11 12-15 15-20
14
14
Machin e Stit ches per Inch
Inside Seams
Top Stitching
15-20 20-30
12
12
16 10
16-18
8
18-19 6
9-11
10
Hand
Needle
10
16
16 7-8
12
10
4-5
8
12
9-11
9
8
6
o
O
11
The Importance of using Correct Needles and Thread.
A perfect stitch can be obtained only when the thread is selected to suit
the material to be stitched and the needle is of the correct size for the thread.
If the needle is too fine for the thread and material, it is likely to break when
crossing a seam. If a coarse needle is used on fine material, the perforations
made will show in the finished work. A table of correct needles for the various
sizes of silk and cotton is given on page 11. This table should be carefully follow
ed when ordering needles and wiien changing them for various classes of work.
NOTE : It is essential for good work that the needle be perfectly straight
and have a sharp point. Only SINGER needles should be used in SINGER
machines.
Needle Threaders.
No. 161307.
Fig. 14. Singer Needle Th readers.
The Singer Needle Thread
ers save time, are inexpen
sive, simple to use and
indispensable to all. They
can be used for threading
hand sewing needles as well
as sewing machine needles.
12
To Set the Needle in Machines 15K, 66K, 99K and
(See Fig. 15).
Raise needle bar to its highest point
by turning hand wheel toward you.
Loosen clamp screw A.
Insert needle (flat side to the right)
up into needle clamp as far as it will
go.
Tighten clamp screw A.
(See Fig. 16).
Raise needle bar to its highest point
by turning hand wheel toward you.
Loosen clamp screw A.
Insert needle (flat side to the left)
up into needle clamp as far as it will
go.
Tighten clamp screw A.
185K
To Set the Needle in Machines 327K, 328K, 329K and 404
(See Fig. 17).
Raise needle bar to highest
point by turning hand wheel
toward you.
Loosen needle clamp screw.
Insert needle upward into
clamp as far as it will go,
3?| f\ 1
f""'" 1 r“'i
MM
■L.f:!i■/
...
i
H" \j'
t\
with flat side of needle to
back and long groove to
ward you.
Tighten needle clamp screw.
f f I. 'i ]
,■0"^ i / \'|
,#'• ■ ?/■ >/ /
Fig. 17.
LONG GROOVE
TOWARD YOU
N.B.—You will note that the side of the needle with the flat on the
shank has a short groove at the eye while the other side has a long
groove. The thread must pass down this long groove when sewing. If the
needle is not placed correctly in the machine it will not sew.
Particular attention is drawn to the fact that in Machine 201K the needle is
set with the flat side of the shank to the left; on 327K, 328K and 329K Machines
the flat side is to the hack, while in the other Singer family machines referred to in
this hook the flat side must he to the right.
13
Threading Central Bobbin Machine No. 15K.
UPPER THREADING UNDER THREADING
Open bed slide.
Open bobbin case latch as shown in
Fig. 19 and withdraw bobbin.
Release the latch, turn the bobbin
case downward and bobbin will
drop out.
Raise take-up lever to its highest
point.
Place spool of thread on spool
pin.
Thread machine as shown in
Fig. 18.
Thread needle from left to right.
Hold bobbin case with slot in edge
at the top and wound bobbin with
thread leading on top towards the
right, as shown in Fig. 20.
Pull thread into slot as shown in
left hand illustration. Fig. 21.
Draw the thread down, under the
tension spring, and to the left into
the delivery eye at its end, as shown
in right hand illustration. Fig. 21.
14
Threading Oscillating Hook Machines Nos. 66K, 99K and 185K
UPPER THREADING UNDER THREADING
Fig. 22.
# Raise take-up lever to its
highest point.
# Place spool of thread on
spool pin.
# Thread machine as shown in
Fig. 22.
# Thread needle from left to
right.
Place bobbin in case and draw thread
into slot 1, Fig. 24.
Draw thread between case and tension
spring until it reaches notch 2, Fig. 25.
Pull about 3 inches of thread across
bobbin.
Close slide plate, allowing thread to
enter notch in slide plate.
15
Threading Rotary Hook Machine No. 20IK.
UPPER THREADING UNDER THREADING
Hold bobbin so that thread leads
off in direction shown in Fig. 27.
/
Fig. 26.
Raise take-up lever to its highest
point.
Place spool of thread on spool
pin.
Thread machine as shown in
Fig. 26.
Thread needle from right to left.
ii'l
11
II
%■ %
Place bobbin in case and draw
thread into slot 1, Fig. 28.
Draw thread between bobbin case
and tension spring until it reaches
notch 2, Fig. 29.
Pull about 3 inches of thread
across bobbin.
Close slide plate.
Fig. 29.
16
Threading Oscillating Hook Machines Nos. 327K, 328K, 329K and 404
UPPER THREADING UNDER THREADING
Fig. 31.
Open slide plate. Insert bobbin
with thread leading oil as shown in
Fig. 31.
"I
X,
Fig. 30.
Raise take-up lever to its highest
point.
Place spool of thread on spool
pin.
Thread machine as shown in
Fig. 30.
Thread needle from front to back.
Fig. 32.
Place bobbin in case.
Lead thread into slot and under
spring as shown in Fig. 32.
'X
I / %
/■
___
^ O /
Fig. 33.
Draw thread into notch at end of
spring ; pull about 3 inches of
thread across bobbin as shown in
Fig. 33.
Close slide plate.
17
The Necessity for Proper Tensions.
The tensions on the sewing machine must be adjusted to suit various
materials. There are two tensions, the upper and the lower. The upper
tension controls the thread from the needle, while the lower tension controls
the thread from the shuttle or bobbin case.
The definition of the word tension as given in the dictionary is : “stress
by pulling.” It is the pulling of the threads together that completes a stitch
made by the sewing machine. After the needle thread passes around the
shuttle, the upper thread is pulled by the take-up lever to take up the slack
and complete the stitch by locking both threads together. If both threads
are under proper tension, the lock occurs in the centre of the material and a
perfect stitch is formed, as in Fig. 34.
To Regulate the Tensions.
Fig. 34. Co rrect Stitch.
For ordinary stitching, the tension
on the upper and under threads should
be equal and just sufficiently strong to
lock both threads in the centre of the
work as shown in Fig. 34.
If either tension is stronger than the
other, imperfect stitching will be the
result. (See Figs. 35 and 36).
Fig. 35. Needle Thread Tension.
TOO Stro ng.
~V "• V~
Fig. 36. Needle Thread Tension
TOO Weak.
A correct stitch can usually be obtained by
varying the tensions on the upper or needle
thread (see Fig. 37)—To increase the tension on
the upper thread, turn the thumb nut to the right ;
to lessen the tension turn the nut to the left.
The tension on the under thread is regulated
by the small screw holding the spring under which
the thread passes on the long shuttle or the round
bobbin case, but as all machines are correctly adjusted
before leaving the factory, it is seldom necessary to
alter this under tension. Should it become necessary,
however, to do so, tighten the tension spring screw to
Thu mb Nut
Fig. 37.
increase the tension and loosen the screw slightly to
lessen the tension, using the small screwdriver provided
for the purpose.
The tension on the upper thread should be adjusted only when
the presser foot is down, and the amount of tension should be so that
the pull on both the upper and the under threads is as nearly as
possible equal.
18
Machines 99K, 185K, 201K, 327K, 328K and 329K are furnished with a
tension indicator and flange (C and B, Fig. 38). The index flange (B) is
marked with numbers 0 to 9 indicating the
different degrees of tension that can be produced.
By noting a particular number opposite the
white line when set for a satisfactory tension on
work being stitched, this number can be readily
reverted to when changing from one class of
material to another. The higher numbers
denote increased tension and the lower numbers
less tension. Notice also that the tension
indicator (C) is marked with the signs + and —
which indicate the direction to turn the thumb
Fig. 38.
nut (A) for more or less tension.
To Prepare for Sewing.
Pull sufficient thread through the needle and with the left hand hold the
end, leaving it slack from the hand to the needle. Turn the hand wheel
towards you until the needle moves
down and up again, thus catching
the under thread ; then, when the
take-up lever is at its highest point,
pull the end of the needle thread
you are holding and the under
thread will be brought up with it
through the needle hole in the
throat plate, as shown in Fig. 39.
Lay both ends of thread under and
to the back of the presser foot, and
having inserted the material to be
stitched, lower the presser bar lifter
and commence to sew by turning
the hand wheel toward you.
1/
NOTE.—Do not try to help
the feeding of the work by pulling
\
the material, as this may deflect
the needle and cause it to break.
The machine feeds without any
Fig. 39. Pulling Up Under Thread.
assistance.
The edge of the garment to
be stitched should be placed just
far enough under the presser foot
to allow the first stitch to be taken
in the material. Never place the
material so that the first stitch
will not be taken in it, as this
would cause the thread to become
entangled in the lower mechanism.
Always lower the presser foot
before starting to sew. See Fig. 40
for the proper starting of material
under the presser foot.
Fig. 40. Beginning a Seam.
19
Finishing a Seam.
When finishing a seanx, never sew beyond the end of the material. Stop
the machine by placing the hand on the hand wheel shortly before the end
of the seam is reached. (See Fig. 41). This will prevent the thread from
becoming entangled in the lower mechanism.
Do not attempt to release the material from the machine until the takeup lever is at the highest point. When the take-up is in this position and the
presser foot is raised, the upper tension is released.
Always remove the material from
the machine by pulling it back and to
the left, and sever the threads by pass
ing them over the thread cutter. Hold
thread with both hands and cut with a
quick downward motion.
Always leave 3 or 4 inches of thread
to prevent it being pulled through the
needle when commencing to sew the
next seam.
On machines equipped with rever
sible feed seams can be reinforced at
the beginning and the end by back
tacking.
Hints for Sewing Various Seams.
Always keep the bulk of the material to the left of the presser foot. This
allows greater freedom of feeding than when the garment is allowed to pass
under the arm of the machine.
Stitch bias seams with the bias instead of against it. For example, when
sewing two bias seams on a skirt, start at the bottom of the garment and
stitch up. This prevents the seams from stretching. The tensions should be
sufficiently loose to prevent puckering of the seams.
When sewing a straight edge to a bias edge, place the bias piece against
the feed. This allows the feed to take care of the possible stretching of the
bias and permits the operator to guide the stitching from the warp or length
wise threads of the material.
The Cloth Guide.
The cloth guide is an aid to straight stitching, and is fastened to the
machine by means of the thumb screw, as shown in Fig. 42. It can be
adjusted to various distances from the needle, as desired.
To Regulate the Length of Stitch.
When stitching fine material use a fine needle, fine thread, and a short
stitch. Heavy material requires a coarse needle and thread and a longer
stitch. (See chart on page 11).
The stitch on the 15K26 machine is regu
lated by the thumb screw in the slot on the
arm (see Fig. 43). To lengthen the stitch on
this machine, loosen the thumb screw and ;;
move it downwards. To shorten the stitch fV'
move the screw upwards. When the desired s , ,
length of stitch is obtained tighten the thumb
screw. The stitch on the 15K80 is regulated |
in the same way except that the thumb screw
is moved upwards to lengthen and down
wards to shorten.
About 18 stitches to the inch makes a
suitable seam for ordinary sewing. Sew on a
double thickness of material, measure off one
inch and count the stitches.
wmimirnmiimim
>:
....
! r~>vr->\
.--x MHjH
qn
I
Fig. 43. Stitch
Regulating Screw on
Singer 15K26 and 15K80
Machin es.
To Regulate the Length of Stitch and Direction of Feed on
Machines 99K (New Style) and 185K. (See Fig. 44).
Numerals on the indi
cator plate represent the
approximate number of
r
stitches per inch.
The “red dot” C indi
cates the stitch setting.
To set stitch length —
# Turn thumb nut to the
left.
# Move lever until “red
dot” C is at desired
stitch setting.
# Turn thumb nut to the
right until it rests
against indicator plate.
Once thumb nut is
against indicator plate,
JJJ
/
I
C
reverse stitching is ac
complished by raising
lever to its highest posi
tion.
Fig. 44.
21
To Regulate the Length of Stitch and the Direction of Feed on
Machine 201K
(See Fig. 45).
Numerals on the indicator plate
represent approximate number of stitches
per inch.
To set stitch length—
• Loosen thumb screw A and lower to
bottom of slot.
• Move lever B until its top edge is level
with desired stitch setting.
• Raise screw A as far as it will go and
tighten. Machine will now make the
desired number of stitches forward.
To reverse stitching—
• Set as above then raise lever B as far
as it will go.
To Regulate the Length of Stitch and Direction of Feed on
The numerals on the indi
cator represent the number of
stitches per inch.
To set stitch length—
• Release pointer by turning
thumb nut to the left.
• Position lever for desired
stitch length (the higher the
number, the shorter the
stitch length).
• Tighten pointer against indi
cator plate by turning thumb
nut to the right.
Once the pointer has been
tightened against the plate,
reverse stitching
plished by raising the lever to
its highest point.
is accom
Machine 327K
(See Fig. 46).
TO RELEASE
TO TIGHTEN
Fig. 4G.
22
To Regulate the Length of Stitch and the Direction of Feed on
, / Machines 328K, 329K and 404. (See Fig. 47).
: i TO RELEASE
Numerals on left side of indi
cator represent number of stitches
per inch.
Numerals on right side represent
stitch length in millimeters.
Upper inclined area of the regu
lator represents stitch lengths above
20.
Lower inclined area of the regu
lator allows the No. 6 stitch length
TO TIGHTEN
setting to be “locked” in place when
stitching folds, pleats or multiple
layers of heavy fabric.
To set stitch length—
• Releasepointer by turning thumb
nut to the left.
• Position lever for desired stitch
length.
• Tighten pointer against plate by
turning thumb nut to the right.
Once the pointer has been positioned, reverse stitching is accomplished
by raising the lever to its highest point. The No. 6 “locked” position must be
unlocked for reverse stitching.
PRESSURE ADJUSTMENTS
To decrease press
ure, turn thumb
screw upward.
To increase press
ure, turn thumb
screw downward.
Decrease Increase
Smooth, even handling of several thicknesses
of fabric results when pressure is correctly
regulated.
Surface finish, as well as the weight and
texture of the fabric, must be considered in
determining the amount of pressure needed.
Adjustment of the thumb screw regulates the
amount of pressure exerted on the material while
it is being stitched.
Too light a pressure will result in irregular
feeding which affects both quality of stitch and
evenness of seams.
Too heavy a pressure not only affects stitch
and seam quality but will mar smooth surfaces
and pile fabrics.
Fig. 48. Pressure Adjustments.
23
Gleaning and Oiling.
Sewing Machines require oiling and cleaning daily if they are used continu
ously. If used moderately—a few hours per day—it is sufficient to oil and
clean once or twice a week.
Like all other machinery, a sewing machine will not give satisfaction
if its working parts are allowed to become dry or gummed with a poor grade
of oil. A sewing machine that has not received proper care runs hard and
considerable energy will be wasted by using it in such a condition, besides
shortening the life of the machine. Before oiling any part of the machine or
stand, always remove all dust, lint, threads, etc., especially in and around
the Shuttle Race.
A cleaning and oiling lesson is of great value to students as emphasising
the necessity of keeping their machines in perfect running order.
The equip-
ment necessary for
thoroughly clean
ing the machine
6 6
_____
,1
C"
'"i\
I /""■ fe
i '
\\ I
V> /f!
II ;S
!i' / i
SI / I
« ¥T
■i i S /'
\
..................
.A
\
Fig. 48a.
Cleaning and Oiling the Head. working parts and
W. I
;'lt
....
I
%
1
1
1
1
\
,, ‘ffi
necessitate a complete overhaul of the machine by a competent mechanic.
Household oils are not suitable for sewing machine use. For Singer
machines use only Singer
oil, which is specially
prepared for sewing
machines and is supplied
in tins bearing the wellknown Singer Red “S."
When making a
thorough cleaning and
oiling, remove the upper
thread, slide plate, bob
bin, needle and presser
foot. Take out the screws
in the throat plate. Fig.
48b, and remove the
plate. This will enable
you to clean and oil the
shuttle race and remove
any collection of fluff.
consists of a duster
or piece of soft
material, a lint
brush, a large screw
driver and a small
screw driver.
Care should be
taken to use high-
grade machine oil
and one drop should
be applied to each
bearing or point
where there is fric
tion. It is poor
economy to use oil
of doubtful quality,
as it may gum the
Fig. 48b. Oiling Points in Head of Machine 201 K.
24
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