SINGER 401A User Manual

SINGER

SIANT-O-MAT/C
Instructions for using-

SINGER

SIANT-O-MAT/C
The SLAAiT~0~MAT/C-the greatest sewing machine ever built!
*A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY

The SXHGER Slj^Aír-O-MAr/C the greatest sewing machine ever built.. .

sews all other machines in both straight and fancy stitching.
# World’s first automatic with a slant needle and gear drive. Seeing
is easier, sewing smoothest e\er. No slipping or stalling.
# World’s first automatic with double easy threading. Has built-in
threading chart, handy "'drop-in” bobbin in Jront of needle!
# World’s first automatic with a built-in eye-level stitch chart, that
lets you "tune” the knob for whatever fancy stitch you want!
Add to these major developments in sewing machine design the following ADVANCED features, and you have a machine far ahead in design, unequalled in performance.
Copyright © 1958 by The Singer Company
ELEVATOR TYPE multi-purpose calibrated throat plate, lever operated, simplifies darning.
NEW NEEDLE CLAMP holds one or two
regular needles —same or different sizes
for exciting twin needle stitching.
HINGED face plate swings open for easy cleaning.
SUPERFINE CONTROL of stitch length en sures perfect satin stitching.
PERFECT Straight Stitching.
BUILT-IN LIGHT focused on sewing area.
TO GET THE MOST ENJOYMENT FROM YOUR SINGER
ALL MECHANISM completely enclosed.
NEW ADJUSTABLE HINGED zipper and cord
ing foot.
NEW SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT.
NEW SEAM GUIDE.
Take advantage of the free sewing lessons to which you are entitled!
Skilled, SiNGER-trained teachers will give you personal guidance and assist you in learning the fundamentals of home sewing.
SINGER SERVICE
Wherever you go you will find expert, dependable singer* Service close at hand, singer is interested in helping you
keep your singer Sewing Machine in top running condition. That is why you should always call your singer center if your machine ever requires adjustment or repair. Only from your
SINGER CENTER
Can you obtain the services of a trained singer
repair man and warranted singer* parts.
EVERYTHING FOR THE WOMAN WHO SEWS
The answer to your sewing needs is at your singer center. There you will find a wide choice of sewing aids, notions, sew ing instructions and services. Look for the famous red and
SINGER trademarks on your singer center and the ever ready
QKI(§liia
SINGER Service Car. See phone book under the singer company
for address nearest you.

FABRIC, THREAD, NEEDLE AND STITCH LENGTH CHART

TYPES OF FABRICS
THREAD
SIZES
NEEDLE
SIZES
MACHINE STITCH SETTINGS
FOR STRAIGHT SEWING
INSIDE
SEAMS
TOP
STITCHING
Filmy materials comparable to Net, Marquisette, Chiffon, Silk and Chiffon Velvets, Voiles, Ninon
Sheer materials comparable to Lawn, Dimity, Synthetic Sheers, Paper Taffetas, Pure Silks, Gossamer Silks, Silk or Synthetic Tricots, Synthetic Velvets, Satins
Lightweight materials comparable to Gingham, Cham­bray. Pique, Poplin, Percale, Cretonne, Chintz, Faille, Bengaline, Wool Flannel, Wool Jersey, Wool Crepe,
Cotton Velvets and Velveteens, Lightweight Suitings
Medium heavy materials comparable to Corduroy, Crash, Gabardine, Rep, Heavy Suitings and Coatings
Heavy materials comparable to Sailcloth, Denim, Ticking, Overcoatings
Plastic Materials
50 Embroidery
100 Cotton
Synthetic Thread
50 Embroidery
80 to 100 Cotton
Synthetic Thread
50 Mercerized
60 to 80 Cotton
A Silk
Heavy Duty Mer.
40 to 60 Cotton
Synthetic Thread
30 to 40 Cotton
Thread
50 Embroidery
Synthetic Thread
50 Mercerized
9
11
14 or
16
16
18
11 or 14
15 to 20 15 to 20
12 to 15
12 15 to 18
10 12
8
10
15 to 20
10
12
When ordering needles, always specify ''Class and Variety 15 x 1" and state the size and quantity required.

NEEDLES AND THREAD

This machine uses a 15 x 1 needle.
Si2es 9, llj 14, 16 and 18.
For perfect stitching, select correct needle and thread to correspond with fabric according to table on page 5. Be sure to use like threads for both needle and bobbin.

NEEDLE INSERTION

Raise the needle bar to highest point by turn
ing the hand wheel toward you. Loosen the needle
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clamp screw. Insert needle upward into clamp ias far as it will go, with the flat side of the needle to the back and the long groove toward you. Tighten needle clamp screw.
LONG GROOVE
TOWARD YOU

UPPER THREADING-SINGLE NEEDLE

Raise take-up lever to highest point. Place thread on spool pin and lead through threading points shown. Thread needle from front to back. Draw sufficient thread through eye of needle with
which to start sewing.
I
s

WIND THE BOBBIN

Loosen Stop motion screw with right hand. Raise bobbin winder and position
bobbin on spindle. Press winder against hand wheel.

WIND THE BOBBIN (Confd.)

Hold thread end to start winding. Activate
machine.
I-...,.
Place thread on spool pin and lead between bobbin winder tension discs. Thread through hole in left side of bobbin as shown.
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Full bobbin will automatically release. Tighten stop motion screw.
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THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

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Hold bobbin so that thread leads off, in direGtion shown. Place bobbin in case.
Lead thread into slot and under spring. ^
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Draw thread into notch at end of spring, pulling off about 3 inches of thread
across the bpbbin.
Close slide plate allowing thread to enter notch.
12
PRINCIPAL PARTS OF MACHINE 401
STITCH CHART
STITCH SELECTOR
TAKE-UP
LEVER
NEEDLE THREAD
TENSION
THROAT PLATE
SPECIAL DISC
RED LEVER
HAND WHEEL
BOBBIN WINDER
STITCH REGULATOR
SLIDE PLATE
THROAT PLATE
POSITIONING LEVER
13

STITCH LENGTH REGULATOR

REVERSE
TO RELEASE
Numerals on the indicator represent the number
of stitches per inch.
The upper indented area of the indicator
represents **fine'' stitch lengths above 20.
The lower indented area of the indicator allows
the #6 stitch length setting to be “locked’’ in place
when stitching folds, pleats or multiple layers of
heavy fabric.
To set stitch length: Release pointer by turning
thumb nut to the left, as shown. Position lever for desired stitch length. Tighten pointer against the plate by turning thumb nut to the right.
Once the pointer has been positioned, reverse
FORWARD
stitching is accomplished by raising the lever to its highest point. The #6 “locked” position cannot be reversed.
SETTING
14

RED LEVER

T
I
A Red Lever setting is necessary for both straight and zigzag stitching.
Numerals indicate five positions, but intermediate settings may also be used.
To position, depress lever and slide it left or right to desired setting.
15

STITCH SELECTOR

Set Red Lever at 3
?
All settings on the left of the plate are controlled by the outer knob. Push (using right hand)—^seleet desired setting and release. All settings on the right of the plate are controlled by the inner knob. Pull (using left hand)—select desired setting and release.
Do not make selector adjustments while the
needle is in the fabric.
1. PUSH
2. SELEGT (A THRU J)
3. RELEASE
PULL
SELECT (K THRU S)
RELEASE
PUSH AND SELECT
PULL AND SELECT
Special
16

THROAT PLATE POSITIONS

- • >• -i< --V. ; , /'
' // i^i> '|S2^
Throat plate in ''Down’' position for general sewing.
Throat plate in "Up” position for darning, embroidering and button sewing.
^ a'
Throat plate in "Unlock” position for removaPand replacement.
TAKE-UP LEVER
MUST BE IN
LOWEST POSITION
I V
17

THROAT PLATE

REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT

Raise pressler bar. Turn hand wheel to drop take-up lever to its lowest point. Set throat plate lever to "'Unlock’’ position. This preparation applies to both removal and replacement.
Remove throat plate by sliding it back. Replace throat plate by sliding it on from the
rear.
Lock in position. Presser foot need not be removed for this
operation.
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18
STRAIGHT STITCHING
A K 3
SET SELECTOR AT A K. RK) LEVER AT 3-K) LOCATE STITCHING IN CENTRAL POSITION. GENERAL PURPOSE THROAT PLATE AND PRESSER FOOT.
Use general purpose throat plate and presser foot for all utility sewing, long straight seams, etc., and where there is occasion to alternate between straight and zigzag stitching.

STRAÍGHT STITCH THROAT PLATE AND PRESSER FOOT

Use the straight stitch throat plate and presser foot where fabric and sewing procedure require close control ... for precision stitching of curved and scalloped edges, top stitching, edge stitching, etc.
For best results, this equipment should be used when stitching sheer and filmy fabrics, knits and tricots (particularly synthetics) and all soft spongy materials.
K I
19
STRAIGHT STITCHING
SECONDARY POSITIONS
I i
SET SELECTOR AT A K.
RED LEVER AT 1, 2, 4 OR 5.
GENERAL PURPOSE THROAT PLATE AND PRESSER FOOT.
Do not make red lever adjustments while the needle is in the fabric.
To meet special requirements a line of stitching may be placed to the right or
left of center.
Red Lever settings 1 and 2 locate stitching to the left. Settings 4 and 5 place
it to the right. Intermediate settings may also be us^d.
20

PREPARE TO SEW

Hold needle thread lightly with left hand. Turn hand wheel so that needle
enters plate and brings up bobbin thread.
Pull end pf bobbin thread through plate and place both needle and bobbin
threads diagonally under presser foot.
21

SEWING A SEAM

V. -
i
Set stitch regulator for stitch length desired. Position needle into fabric about
1/2 inch from edge and lower presser foot. Raise stitch regulator to reverse.
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Back stitch to edge of fabric for reinforcement. Lower regulator for forward
stitching of seam. Raise stitch regulator.
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22
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Back stitch to reinforce end of seam, and lower regulator to forward stitching jposition. With take-up lever at highest point, raise presser foot and remove fabric.
23

GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC

Most fabrics need only to be guided in front of the presser foot. Fabrics of unusual texture and weave, filmy sheers, crepes, knits, tricots, etc., require support while being stitched. For such fabrics, use the straight stitch throat plate and presser foot, and apply gentle tension to the seam by holding the fabric in front and in back of the presser foot as
illustrated.
24

PRESSURE ADJUSTMENTS

To decrease pressure, turn thumb screw upward.
To increase pressure, turn screw downward.
Increase
Pressure is the force the presser foot exerts on fabric while it
is being stitched.
Smooth, even handling of several thicknesses of fabric results
when pressure is correctly regulated.
Too light a pressure will result in irregular feeding which
affects both quality of stitch and evenness of seams.
Too heavy a pressure not only affects stitch and seam quality
but will mar smooth surfaces and pile fabrics.
Surface finish, as well as the weight and texture of the fabric,
must be considered in determining the amount of pressure needed.
25
NEEDLE THREAD TENSION
STRAIGHT STITCHING
i ■
Needle thread tension too
tight — correct by setting
dial to lower number.
,fca
Needle thread tension too loose -— correct by setting dial to higher number.
A perfectly locked stitch results with upper and lower tensions balanced so that needle and bobbin threads are dr^n equally into fiibric.
26
BOBBIN THREAD TENSION
STRAIGHT STITCHING
Bobbin thread tension too tight—correct by turning screw counterclockwise.
that needle and bobbin threads are drawn equally into fabric.
Bobbin thread tension too loose—correct by turning screw clockwise.
lower tensions balanced so
27

ZIGZAG STITCHING EQUIPMENT

GENERAL PURPOSE THROAT PLATE.
GENERAL PURPOSE PRESSER FOOT.
SPECIAL PURPOSE PRESSER FOOT.
28

STITCH LENGTH ADJUSTMENT FOR SATIN STITCHING

The area of the stitch regulator with its inclined surface provides a means of gradually shortening the stitch length.
As the knob is turned, the pointer rides up the incline until a closed satin stitch is obtained.
The exact stitch setting will vary with the texture of the fabric. It is advisable to make a test on a scrap of self fabric, using the Special Purpose Foot, before proceeding with the actual work.
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