SINGER 2001 User Manual

Download

DELUXE ELECTRONIC SEWING MACHINE WITH TWO-WAY SEWING SUREACE

Tauoh-TRam: Eoai

memory machine

TOUCH manie вап!

memory machine

Congratulations . . .

You are about to sew on the most advanced sewing machine in the world —

the model 2001 machine.

After years of research, Singer has produced the model 2001 sewing machine which features these important technological breakthroughs:

• Exclusive Solid-state Electronic Sewing System. The model 2001 machine has an electronic “brain” that automatically programs your machine to sew any one of twenty-seven different functional and/or

decorative stitches plus two types of one-step buttonholes.

• Exclusive Light Touch Fingertip Controis. They are the orange stitch pat

tern symbols on the front of the machine that light up when the machine is turned on. Simply touch the symbol of the stitch pattern you want-—the red indicator light comes on above the symbol — and the machine is ready to sew. Any stitch is instantly available, at the touch of a finger.

• Exclusive Digital Fine Tuning. It allows you to modify the programmed

stitch pattern to suit special fabrics and satisfy personal preferences.

There are many more features, such as these Singer exclusives:

The Pattern Repeat Button lets you sew one unit of a pattern, for original

decorative touches. The Light Touch Fingertip Reverse Stitch for instant or continuous reverse. An extra-wide programmed setting for most stitch pat terns. 2X (two-times) which produces twice the programmed stitch length for pattern variation in decorative designs. Mirror Image, which automatically reverses the stitch pattern image, allows for greater flexibility in stitch ap plications. The Flip & Sew* panel for both flat and in-the-round sewing. And the ease of push-button bobbin winding.

The model 2001 machine also has such Singer advantages as the Soft-Touch

Fabric Feed that will not injure even the most delicate fabrics. A variable speed Solid-state Control System, that enables you to maintain the same pressure on the speed controller as you sew through varying fabric thicknesses.

In addition, the model 2001 machine has these Singer design features — a one-way needle-clamp that makes it impossible to put the needle in back

wards, snap-on pressar feet that are quickly removed and easily replaced,

and easy-to-change needle plates secured by magnets.

We suggest you take time to read through this instruction book as you sit at

your new machine. You will discover how simple it is to do a sewing operation on the model 2001 machine.

Contents

Page

Chapter 1. Getting to Know Your Machine ............................................................................................. 1

Principal Parts ......................................................................................................................... 1

Accessories.............................................................................................................................. 2

Chapter 2. Getting Ready to Sew ..

Choosing and Changing Accessories

Presser Feet • Needle Plates • Seam Guide

Choosing Needles and Threads ........................................................................................... 11

Fabric Weight Table* Fabric, Thread and Needle Table • Needle-Fabric Combinations

Operating Machine ................................................................................................................ 17

Connecting

Threading the Machine ................................................................................................... 18

Preparation • Threading Needle

The Bobbin............................................................................................................................. 23

Winding » Low Bobbin Indicator • Changing

Chapter 3. Electronic Sewing................................................................................................................. 28

Selecting a Stitch.................................................................................................................. 28

Digital Fine Tuning

Stitch Adjustments ................................................................................................................. 29

Stitch Length • Stitch Balance • Stitch Width

Individual Preferences............................................................................................................ 32

Reverse Stitching • Pattern Repeat Button • Twin-Needle Symbol • Mirror Image • 2X (two-times)

Chapter 4. Straight Stitching ................................................................................................................. 36

Preparation ........................................................................................................................... 36

Regulating Presser Foot Pressure • Needle Thread Tension

Fabric Handling ................................................................................................................... 38

Pin Basting • Speed Basting • Even Feed* Foot

Sewing a Seam...................................................................................................................... 41

Preparation • Placing Fabric Under Foot • Sewing with a Newly Wound Bobbin • Keeping Seams Straight • Turning Square Corners »Curved Seams • Reinforcing End of Seam

Applications............................................................................................................................ 44

Darning • Hesitation Embroidery • Quilting • Chainstitching

Chapter 5. Basic Zig-Zag Stitching ......................................................................................................... 50

Zig-Zag Stitching.................................................................................................................... 50

Procedure • Changing Stitch Length and Width • Adjusting Needie Thread Tension • Left Narrow Zig-Zag Stitching • Zig-Zag Seam Finishes • Lingerie Seams

Creative Applications ..

Satin Stitching • Appliqué • Free-Motion Embroidery

.......................................................................................................... 7

.......................................................................................

......................................................................................................... 54

Chapter 6. Machine Stitch Patterns............................................................................................................ 57

Adjusting Stitches to Suit Stretch Fabrics ............................................................................ 57

Guiding and Supporting Fabric • Adjusting Pressure

Handling Special Fabrics ....................................................................................................... 58

Stitch Centering...................................................................................................................... 59

Stitch Usage: Functional and Decorative .............................................................................. 60

Featherstitch...................................................................................................................... 60

Fagoting — Patchwork Quilting

Paris Point Stitch............................................................................................................... 62

Picot Edges — Hemstitching — Fringed Edges

Overedge Stretch Stitch ................................................................................................... 64

Seam Finishes and Finishing

Blindstitch ......................................................................................................................... 66

Hems — Ladder Seam

Scallop Stitch .................................................................................................................... 68

Scalloping Edges

Elastic Stretch or “M” Stitch .............................................................................................. 69

Stretch Garment Repair —Lace Insertion and Application

Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag .......................................................................................................... 70

Mending a Tear — Finishes for Hem and Facing Edges — Bar Tacks

Maxi-Stretch Stitch............................................................................................................ 72

Seams

Honeycomb Stitch............................................................................................................. 74

Replacing Lingerie Elastic

Blanket Binding Stitch....................................................................................................... 75

Blanket Binding

Arrowhead Stitch............................................................................................................... 76

Stitch Finish

Turkish Hemstitch.............................................................................................................. 77

Hems and Borders

Zig-Zag Blindstitch ............................................................................................................ 78

Hems on Stretch Fabric

Curved Mending Stitch ..................................................................................................... 79

Mending and Repairs

Dressweight Tailor Tack Stitch.......................................................................................... 80

Tailor Tacking — Imitation Fringe

Decorative Stitching ............................................................................................................... 82

Border Designs • Monograms • Topstitching • Smocking • Twin-Needle Stitching

Chapter 7. Buttonholes and Buttons ...................................................................................................... 88

Buttonholes ........................................................................................................................... 88

Buttonhole Position — Length — Interfacing—Test Sample

One-Step Buttonholing........................................................................................................ 91

Cutting Button Opening • Adjusting Cutting Space • Changing Stitch Density •

Stitching a Series of Buttonholes

Buttons ............................................................................................................................... 96

Chapter 8. Free-Arm Sewing .................................................................................................................. 98

Chapter 9. Caring for Your Machine...................................................................................................... 102

Chapter 10. Performance Checklist ....................................................................................................... 104

Chapter 11. Sewing Aids ....................................................................................................................... 107

Your Personal Measurements.................................................................................................................... 108

Index .......................................................................................................................................................... 109

principal parts and what they do

1. Take-up Lever controls flow of needle

thread. Self-threading eyelet simplifies and speeds threading of machine.

2. Pressure Dial regulates presser-foot

pressure on fabric. It has an all-purpose setting plus settings for extra-light and extra-heavy pressure and for darning.

3. Rear Thread Guide holds needle thread

firmly in place while sewing.

4. Snap-in Thread Guidepost eliminates

possible tangling of thread.

5. Presser Foot Lifter, allows you to raise

and lower presser foot. Extra-high lift position permits easy placement of bulky fabrics.

6. Thread Cutter is built into presser bar for

safety and convenience.

7. Chainstitch Thread Guide is used for

singie-thread chainstitching in which the needle thread is used aione without a bobbin thread.

8. Low Bobbin Indicator lets you know

when bobbin thread supply is getting low or has been used up.

9. Thread Guides.

10. Needle Threader is designed for ease in

threading the needle.

11. General Purpose Foot holds fabric

against feed. The most commonly used feet snap off for quick removal.

12. Flip & Sew* Panel converts machine for

free-arm sewing.

13. General Purpose Needle Plate lifts out

for easy removal. Guidelines on right and

ieft sides help you keep seams straight.

14. Soft-Touch Feed moves fabric under

presser foot. Soft surface does not injure

fabric, even the most delicate.

15. Bobbin Latch ailows you to switch from

sewing to bobbin winding without remov

ing bobbin.

16. Transparent Bobbin shows thread supply

at a glance.

17. Slide Plate has window to show bobbinthread supply. Slides open for easy ac cess to bobbin. Seam guidelines (ex tended from needle plate) have cross

lines to help you turn square corners.

18. Needle Clamp holds single and twin needies. It is designed to make needles self setting and eliminate the possibility of in serting needle backwards.

19. Tension Dial lets you select just the right tension for your stitch, thread and fabric. The numbers eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings.

20. Built-in Sewing Light illuminates sewing area. Puil-down bracket makes it easy to replace bulb.

21. Circuit Breaker is a safety feature which protects the electronic brain of your machine.

22. Electrical Connections and Speed Con troller are designed for your convenience

and safety.

• To run the machine and control speed,

press the speed controller. The harder you press, the faster the machine will sew within the speed range you select.

• To stop the machine from sewing,

simply remove pressure from the speed controller.

23. Power and Light Switch turns on machine and sewing light simultaneous ly. FAST and SLOW speed range set tings let you choose the best sewing speed for your work.

24. Hand Wheel controls movement of takeup lever and needle.

25. Stitch Selection Panel illuminates when power and light switch is turned on. Pro

vides for ease in stitch pattern seiection.

26. Friction-Free Spool Holder with horizon

tal pin holds spools of various sizes;

holder lets thread unwind without tug or

drag. The spooi does not turn.

'¡I V V

accessories

The accessories provided with your Modei 2001 sewing machine are designed to help you do many kinds of sewing easily.

1. Transparent Bobbins (No. 181551)

2. Needles

— In flat plastic pack

• Style 2020 for general sewing.

• Style 2045 for sewing knits, stretch fabrics and elastic.

• Style 2025t for twin-needle decora tive stitching on woven and knit fabrics.

— In plastic tube

• Style 2040t for hemstitching.

3. Straight Stitch Foot and Straight Stitch Needle Plate. Use these when your

fabric or sewing procedure requires close control. Numbers on needle plate

indicate distance from needle in eighths

of an inch. These accessories, recommended for all

straight stitch sewing, are especially

helpful for edge stitching and collar pointing, or for stitching delicate or

spongy fabrics.

4. Zipper Foot for inserting zippers and stitching corded seams.

i Caution: Use these needles with the general

purpose needle plate and general purpose or special purpose foot only. Do not use any other

accessories with these needles as needle

breakage will occur.

5. Seam Guide helps you keep seam allowances even.

6. General Purpose Foot and General Pur pose Needle Plate are on your machine

when delivered. Use them for alternating

between straight and zig-zag stitching as well as utility zig-zag sewing. They can also be used for straight stitching on firm fabrics. Numbers on needle plate indi cate distance from needle in eighths of an inch.

7. One-step Buttonhole Foot allows you to stitch a complete buttonhole up to 1 -1 /2

inches (3.8cm) in a single step. It deter mines the correct buttonhole length,

either by placing button in foot or by

using gauge lines.

8. Overedge Foot used with overedge stretch stitch for seams in stretch fabrics at programmed width only.

9. Button Foot holds most flat buttons

securely for fastening.

10. Dressweight Tailor Tack Foot for tailor

tack marking and for making imitation fringe.

11. Darning and Embroidery Foot is recom

mended for all types of free-motion work. It is ideal for embroidery, monogramming

and decorative designs. The transparent toe fully reveals the line of the design to be followed and controls fabric.

12. Feed Cover Plate for button sewing, freemotion work and darning.

13. Special Purpose Foot. Use this for all kinds of decorative stitching.

14. Even Feed Foot for sewing hard-to-feed pile, stretch, and bonded fabrics. Also

excellent for stitching plaids, stripes and topstitching.

15. Chainstitch Fittings

a. Bobbin Case Insert b. Chainstitch Needle Plate. Numbers on

needle plate indicate distance from needle in eighths of an inch.

16. Blindstitch Hem Guide. Use this with the general purpose foot to position and guide the hem.

17. Detachable Spool Pin for decorative

twin-needle stitching and two-thread topstitching.

18. Seam Ripper to pick and cut threads quickly and neatly.

19. Lint Brush for cleaning your sewing machine.

20. Large Spool Holder on your machine

when delivered. For use with medium and large spools of thread.

21. Small Spool Holder for use with smail diameter tubes of thread.

Chapter 2. Getting Ready to Sew

choosing and changing accessories

CHANGING PRESSER FEET Snap-on Presser Feet

Most of the presser feet furnished with your machine snap on and off a common shank.

• Raise needle and take-up lever to highest position by turning the hand wheel toward

you.

• Raise presser foot.

To Remove Foot

. rress lUB ui Mil

far as it will go.

2. Center the new presser foot under the shank.

Lower the presser foot after so that the shank fits over the presser foot pin.

1b. Then snap down to remove.

3. Press presser foot screw down firmly until foot snaps into place.

To remove and replace the shank of snap-on presser feet, follow instructions on next page for one-piece presser feet.

Attaching One-piece Presser Foot

Removing One-piece Presser Foot and Presser Foot Shank

• One-piece presser feet included in your ac cessory box that are removed this way are:

zipper foot button foot tailor tack foot

• Raise needle and take-up lever to highest position by turning the hand wheel toward

you.

• Raise presser foot.

• When changing one-piece presser feet or removing presser foot shank, insert the

edge of a coin in the slot of the presser foot screw, as illustrated. Turn to loosen, and then after changing foot, turn to tighten presser foot securely.

• Loosen presser foot screw A and remove

the foot, guiding it to the right.

Attaching One-piece Feet

• Hook one-piece foot around the presser bar and tighten presser foot screw.

Attaching the Even Feed Foot

• Guide Even Feed foot into position from back of machine, making sure the movable arm straddles the needle-clamp B.

• Tighten presser foot screw securely with a coin.

• To remove, loosen screw and guide foot to the right and away from you.

Attaching the Darning and Embroidery Foot

• Remove one-piece presser foot as pre viously instructed.

•

• Guide darning and embroidery foot into position from back of machine. Make sure lifting finger C is above needle-clamp B.

• Tighten presser foot screw with coin.

Attaching Darning and Embroidery Foot

• To remove, loosen screw and guide foot away from you and to the right.

CHANGING NEEDLE PLATES

Remove bobbin if it contains thread in order to prevent thread being caught when plate is replaced.

Raise needle and take-up lever to highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you.

Raise presser foot.

• Open slide plate. Press down on front edge of needle plate and lift up and out.

• When changing to straight stitch needle plate, move feed to right-hand position.

• When changing from straight stitch needle

plate to any other needle plate, move feed to left-hand position.

•

• Position new plate over pins and release. Plate is drawn into position by magnets. See

special instructions on page 10 for attach

ing chainstitch plate.

• Close slide plate.

Machine has been designed with a movable feed. This allows close contact between feed and presser foot when straight stitching and is beneficial in helping to hold fabric in place while stitching.

Move Feed to Right-Hand Position when Using

Straight Stitch Needie Piate

Move Feed to Left-Hand Position when Using

Generai Purpose Needle Plate

Caution: The straight stitch foot and zipper

foot must oniy be used with the straight stitch

needle plate. Needle breakage can occur if the

straight stitch foot or zipper foot is used with any other needle plate.

Post

Chainstitch Needle Plate and Insert

• Raise needle and take-up lever to highest position and raise presser foot.

Bobbin Latch

Finger of Insert

• Open slide plate.

• Move bobbin latch to left and remove bobbin

and needle plate from machine.

• Place bobbin case insert in bobbin case as

shown, with finger of insert positioned under the feed.

• Position chainstitch needle plate over mag netic pins, making certain that the post of the bobbin case insert finger enters the hole in the plate.

• Close slide plate.

Attaching Chainstitch Fittings

ATTACHING THE SEAM GUIDE

Place screw in hole to the right of the slide plate; line up straight edge of guide with the

needle plate guideline for desired seam width

and tighten screw.

ADJUSTING THE ZIPPER FOOT

How the zipper is inserted will depend on the type of garment and location of the zipper. Check your zipper package for zipper insertion information. For information on attaching zip per foot to presser foot shank, refer to page 8.

To adjust foot, loosen the thumb screw at the

back of foot and slide foot to either the left or right of the needle. Check the position of the

foot by turning the hand wheel to lower the

needle into the side notch of the foot, making sure it clears the foot. Lock the foot into posi tion by tightening the thumb screw.

choosing needles and threads

IMPORTANT: Your SINGER sewing machine has been designed to obtain best results with SINGER* needles. You should follow the recommendations in this instruction book and on the needle package for correct style and size of needle for different types and weights of fabric.

The needles you use should be straight to in sure perfect stitch formation. The needle should also be fine enough to prevent the fabric from being marred with iarge

punctures, yet heavy enough to pierce the

fabric without being bent or defiected.

Remember too, that the eye of the needie must be iarge enough for the thread to pass through freely: too fine a needie will cause the thread to fray. See Fabric, Thread and Needle

Table, page 14.

For general purpose sewing in a wide range of fabrics, the Style 2020 needle, in sizes 9 through 18, will give you excellent results.

Styie 2020

Regular Needle

Style 2045

Ball Point

Yellow Band Needle

For best results when sewing on knits, woven

stretch fabrics, bonded vinyls, and elastic use Style 2045 ball point Yellow Band* needie, avaiiabie in sizes 11, 14, and 16.

For bold results when hemstitching use the winged needle. Style 2040t.

For decorative stitching on light and mediumweight woven and knit fabrics, use the twinneedie, Styie 2025t.

For sewing leathers, real and simulated, the Style 2032 needle, available for purchase at your Singer Sewing Center, is recommended.

Changing the Needle

• Raise needle to its highest point by turning

the hand wheel toward you. Loosen needleclamp screw, and remove the needle.

• Insert new needle up into clamp as far as it

wiil go, with the flat side of the needie to the

back.

• Tighten needie-ciamp screw.

iCaution: Use these needles with the general

purpose needle plate and general purpose or

special purpose foot only. Do not use any other accessories with these needles as needle breakage will occur.

Style 2040

Winged Needle

Changing the Needie

V V

style 2025

Twin-Needle

FABRIC WEIGHT TABLE

There are thousands of fabrics around the world, each manufactured with a specific fiber and weight. The fabrics below have been classified according to weight to give a small sample of what is availabie for purchase.

SILK

(Woven)

(Knit)

RAYON

(Woven)

(Knit)

COTTON

(Woven)

(Knit)

WOOL

(Woven)

(Knit)

Chiffon, Organza, Tulle

Tulle

Voile, Tulle

SHEER

Net, Lace, Ninon

Net, Lace

LIGHT

Velvet, Crepe deChine, Shantung, Faille

Jersey Velvet, Taffeta, Satin

Ciré Chains, Organdy, Muslin, Batiste, Dimity,

Lawn, Percale, Eyelet, Gingham, Piqué, Poplin

Jersey

Cashmere, Flannel, Mohair, Felt, Crepe

Jersey

SYNTHETIC

LEATHER

PLASTIC

(Woven)

(Knit)

BLENDS

(Woven)

(Knit)

VINYLS

Chiffon, Organza, Tulle

Net, Lace, Ninon,

Crepe deChine

Voile

Plastic Film

Crepe, Velvet, Taffeta, Satin

Raschel, Single Knit, Sweater Knit,

Bonded Knit, Tricot, Ciré

Broadcloth, Batiste, Eyelet, Gingham, Poplin

Single Knit Kidskin, Patent, Chamois, Imitation-

Leathers & Suedes, Leather, Suede Plastic Film

Refer to this table to determine the weight and type of fabric you will be using in order to select the correct needle and thread combination.

For correct needle and thread combination for your fabric, refer to the Fabric, Thread and Needle

Table on the following page.

v.f...

Velvet, Crepe deChine, Shantung, Suiting, Brocade

Velvet, Taffeta, Satin, Crepe

Veiveteen, Corduroy, Velvet, Fleece, Velour, T erry, Chintz

Stretch Velourst, Stretch Terryt

tUsually contain some synthetic fibers also.

Suiting, Flannel, Gabardine, Felt, Serge, Mohair

Jersey

MEDIUM

Brocade, Taffeta, Satin, Crepe

Corduroy, Denim, Ticking, Canvas, Linen, Drapery Fabric, Burlap

Suitirtg, Tweed, Duffel

Denim, Duck, Canvas, Sailcloth, Upholstery Fabric

Coating, Blanketing

Velvet, Crepe, Taffeta, Satin, Gabardine

Jacquard, Double Knit, Sweater Knit, Bonded Knit, Tricot, Spandex, Stretch

Terry, Stretch Velour, Deep Pile, Fake

Furs Linen Type, Poplin, Corduroy, Gabardine Denim, Gabardine, Drapery Fabric

Terry Knit

Patent, Imitation-Leathers & Suedes, Leather, Suede, Reptile

Bonded Vinyl (Knit Back), Patent,

Embossed, Printed

Double Knit, Helenca, Fake Furs

Double Knit Buckskin, Calfskin, Suede, Reptile Upholstery Leather

Upholstery Vinyl

FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE

Choosing the correct needle and thread for your fabric is of utmost importance. Correct choice will make the difference in the wear and appearance of your new garment. The Fabric Weight Ta ble on the previous page, and the Fabric, Thread and Needle Table below are practical guides to

needle and thread selection. Refer to them before starting a sewing project. Be sure to use the

same size and type of thread in both needle and bobbin. To select the correct needle and thread for your fabric, first refer to the Fabric Weight Table to

determine the weight and type of the materiai you are using. Next refer to the Fabric, Thread and Needle Table.

■

FILM

( THREAD^

SILK

RAYON

COTTON

Fine Silk Fine Silk FineSiik

Fine Mercerized

Fine Silk Fine Silk FineSiik

Fine Mercerized

Fine Cotton Fine Cotton Medium Cotton

Fine Mercerized

WOOL

SYNTHETIC Fine Synthetic

SYNTHETIC

BLENDS

Fine Synthetic

SHEER

NÍÉDLES THREADS '

2020-9t

Fine Mercerized

Fine Silk FineSiik Fine Mercerized 2020-11

Fine Synthetic

LIGHT

NEEDLES I! THREADS

2020-9t

Fine Mercerized 2020-11

Medium Mercerized

Fine Mercerized

Fine Synthetic 2045-11

Fine Synthetic

NEEDLES II

2020-11

2045-11

LEATHER

PLASTIC

VINYLS

Medium Mercerized Medium Synthetic

Fine Mercerized Fine Synthetic

Fine Mercerized Fine Synthetic 2020-11

tSize 9 needle is recommended for sewing only. For bobbin winding, use larger size needle.

2032-11

2020-11

Find the fabric you are using in Type of Fabric column at left. (Silk, rayon, etc.) Then locate the

fabric weight column (filmy, sheer, etc.) for your fabric at top of table. Read across from Type of

Fabric column to correct weight of fabric column. There, the correct thread and needle choice

for your fabric will be found.

Example: If you are sewing a medium weight wool, find wool in Type of Fabric column. Read across to Medium (weight) column and you will see that a medium silk or mercerized thread and a size 2020-14 needle are to be used.

MEDIUM HEAVY

THREADS 1

Medium Silk Medium Mercerized

Medium Synthetic Medium Mercerized

Medium Cotton Medium Mercerized

Medium Silk Medium Mercerized

Medium Synthetic

NEEDLES

2020-11

2020-14

2045-14

VERY Heavy

THREADS

Heavy Silk Heavy Mercerized

Heavy Synthetic Heavy Mercerized

Heavy Cotton Heavy Mercerized

Heavy Mercerized

Heavy Synthetic 2045-16 Heavy Synthetic

Heavy Synthetic

NEEDLES

2020-14

2020-16

2045-16

THREADSc

Heavy Silk 2020-14

Heavy Synthetic Heavy Mercerized

Heavy Cotton Heavy Mercerized 2020-18

Heavy Mercerized

Heavy Synthetic 2020-16 or 18

NEEDLES

2020-14

2020-16

2020-16 or 18

Medium Mercerized Medium Synthetic

2032-14

2020-11

Heavy Mercerized Heavy Synthetic 2032-16

Medium Mercerized Medium Synthetic

Medium Mercerized Medium Synthetic 2020-14

2020-14

Heavy Mercerized Heavy Synthetic 2032-18

Heavy Mercerized Heavy Synthetic

2020-16

Result of Using a Bent Needle

Regular Needle

Woven Fabric

NEEDLE-FABRIC COMBINATIONS

Be sure to check the Fabric, Thread and Nee dle Table on page 14 before you begin to sew. The importance of selecting the correct size, as well as the correct type needle for the fabric and thread you are using, cannot be emphasized too greatly.

Correct needle selection is closely related to stitch quality and appearance. Damaged fabric is almost always caused by a needle that is bent, burred, or that is an inappropriate style for the fabric and thread you are using.

The three types of needles most commonly

used by sewers are the regular, ball point, and

wedge. To obtain good results, the correct size and type of needle for the fabric and thread you are using, must be chosen.

The regular needle, Style 2020, which is

called a set-point type needle, is for stitching woven fabrics such as denim, gabardine, and drapery coating.

Bail Point Needle

Knit and Stretch Fabric

Wedge Needle

Leather, Vinyl,

and Dense Material

Ball point needles, Style 2045, are appropri ate for stitching most knits, lingerie, lace,

mesh, stretch fabrics, and elastic materials. The special rounded tip of the ball point nee dle insures gentle separation of the fabric yarns.

The wedge needle, Style 2032, is best for

stitching leather, vinyl, and dense materials. It

is designed to cut through with a minimum of friction and also shape the punctures to in sure a desired appearance.

operating machine

CONNECTING MACHINE

Before plugging in your machine, be sure that the voltage and number of cycles indicated at the right end of the machine, conform to your electrical power supply.

• Push the machine plug into the machine socket.

• Connect the power-line plug to your electri cal outlet.

To turn on the machine and set speed range, push the power and light switch to desired speed. This will also turn on the sewing light.

• The SLOW setting A (switch pressed in halfway) allows for maximum control. Use this setting for special jobs where intricate construction details require close control.

• The FAST setting B (switch pressed in all

the way) allows for full speed capacity of the

machine. It is best for long, straight seams,

easy-to-handle fabrics, and general sewing where a variety of speeds are needed.

CAUTION: We recommend that you turn off

the power and tight switch before changing needtes, presser feet or ptates and when leav ing the machine unattended. This eliminates the

possibility of starting the machine by acciden

tally pressing the speed controller.

To run the machine, press the foot or knee

speed controller. The harder you press, the

faster the machine will sew within the

selected speed range. The lighter you press,

the slower the machine will sew within the

selected speed range.

Note: If machine does not operate (stitch selection panel and sewing light do not light

up) after making electrical connections and turning on switch, the circuit breaker may re quire activation. See page 103 for instruc tions regarding circuit breaker.

Connecting and Operating Machine

threading the machine

PREPARATION

• Place spool of thread on horizontal spool pin A. If spool being used has a thread retaining slit B, it should be placed against the spool cushion to the right.

• Select correct spool holder according to type and diameter of spool being used. The diameter of the end of the spool holder should always be larger than that of the spool itself.

• Press spool holder C f/rm/y against spool.

• Raise the needle and take-up lever to highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you.

• Raise the presser foot.

Step 1

•

Snap thread into thread guide post D.

Step 2

• Thread the rear thread guide E. Pass thread under flange, then over to the far right end of cylinder.

step 3

• Draw thread firmly into tension disc on right of tension separator.

•

• Draw thread down right channel and up left channel toward the take-up lever.

Step 6

• Hold thread in position by keeping left finger over bottom of diagonal thread channel and guide thread from the right as shown, into thread guide G.

Step 7

• Then draw thread through guide H from the rear to the right.

STEP 8 TO THREAD THE NEEDLE t

A. Lower the presser foot. Grasp needle

threader grip between thumb and forefinger of left hand.

\ I / A I

C. Touchy the symbols for straight

stitch i and pattern repeat © .

•

• Press down slowly on the speed controller with foot until the needle stops. This will automatically posi tion the threader in line with the nee dle eye.

B. Pull needle threader down as far as it

will go.

passes through the needle eye. Do not

attempt to pull it through the needle eye

with your fingers.

E. Squeeze needle threader grip with

thumb and forefinger of left hand. Guide needle threader to the left, then raise it all the way up into the machine.

tThe needle threader can not be

used with winged or twin-needles

Note: If thread breaks while sewing, thread needle manually drawing 4 inches

(10cm) of thread down towards needle, lower foot and thread needle front to back.

F. Remove tail of thread from needle

threader.

• Raise presser foot. Position thread under the presser foot diagonally to the left. Touch j or desired stitch symbol to clear © .

the bobbin

You will find an empty bobbin in place under

the slide plate of your machine. When

machine is turned on, a red light will appear above the needle-clamp on the face of your machine. This light is called the Low Bobbin Indicator. The red light indicates that there is no thread in the bobbin.

To open slide plate, simply draw it gently toward you. Whenever you open slide plate, the Low Bobbin Indicator may light up regard less of how much thread is on the bobbin.

For bobbin winding information, see the pro cedure below.

WINDING THE BOBBIN Preparation Steps

• Raise the needle and take-up lever to high est position by turning the hand wheel

toward you.

• Raise the presser foot to reiease tension

discs.

• Open slide plate and make sure bobbin is

empty. For removal of bobbin and thread, see page 25.

1. Touch J blindstitch. A beep will be heard

and a red light will be seen above the stitch

symbol to indicate that the stitch has been

selected.

2. Touch © pattern repeat symbol to stop up and down motion of the needle. This will in sure a smooth flow of thread from the thread spool to the bobbin during winding.

Detailed information on selecting stitches is found in Chapter 3 on page 28.

Step 1

Step 2

We recommend the use of a moderate speed when winding a bobbin.

1. Move bobbin latch A to extreme right.

2. Draw needle thread away from you bet ween toes of presser foot, under left side of presser foot, then up from the front into and around thread retainer B. Release thread end. Start machine, run at moderate speed.

3. Pull thread end away after it has sepa rated from bobbin.

•

• Watch the bobbin as it fills. Do not

allow thread to wind beyond the out side FULL ring C.

To start sewing, pull thread back under

presser foot and cut. Place threads diagonally

under foot to left side, position needle in fabric where desired, lower presser foot, and start machine. For additional information on starting to sew refer to Chapter 4, Straight Stitching page 41.

4. Close slide plate to release bobbin latch to sewing position.

LOW BOBBIN INDICATOR

The Low Bobbin Indicator, located directly above the needle-clamp on the face of your

machine, is a new feature. This light will tell you when bobbin thread supply is getting low or has been used up. When the bobbin thread

begins to run out, the light will flash a few times, then remain on until the bobbin is

rewound or replaced with a fully wound bobbin.

If the bobbin runs out of thread during sewing,

you can rewind it without removing it from the

machine. The window in the slide plate lets you see bobbin thread supply at a glance. For bobbin winding information, see previous page. Remember — the Low Bobbin Indicator

may light up when the slide plate is open.

CHANGING THE BOBBIN

Removing the Bobbin

Raise needle and take-up lever to highest posi

tion by turning the hand wheel toward you.

1. Open slide plate; move bobbin latch to left.

2. Remove bobbin by inserting finger under rim of bobbin.

Replacing an Empty Bobbin

1. Slip bobbin with thread slot on top, into bobbin case.

2. Move bobbin latch to extreme right.

Leave slide plate open until you have finished

winding the bobbin.

Removing Thread from Bobbin

You can leave the bobbin in place while removing thread. With slide plate closed, pull thread end through the plate with a steady motion. Do not pull the thread across the feed as thread may damage feed.

Replacing a Wound Bobbin

Raise needle and take-up lever to highest position by turning hand wheel toward you.

A. Open slide plate; move bobbin latch to

left. Remove used bobbin.

B. Draw about 1 inch (2.5cm) of thread

from bobbin and insert bobbin in case. Move bobbin latch slightly to the right

(sewing position). Pull thread into bob

bin case Slot 1.

G. Draw thread under flat spring and around

to and past point 2, leaving 3 inches (7cm) of free thread.

0. Close slide plate to prevent thread from coming out of threading points while raising the bobbin thread, as ex

plained on next page.

Raising the Bobbin Thread

Hold needle thread lightly with left hand and

turn hand wheel slowly toward you until the

needle enters plate.

Continue turning hand wheel and holding needle thread until needle rises. Tighten your hold on the needle thread and bring up bobbin thread in a loop.

Open the loop with your fingers. Draw approx

imately 4 inches (10cm) of both threads under the presser foot and place them

diagonally to left.

Chapter 3. Electronic Sewing

Flexi-Stitch Patterns t

selecting a stitch

Your sewing machine will produce most of your stitching requirements at a preprogrammed stitch width and stitch length.

Turn machine on. You will note a movement of needle each time power switch is turned on and a beep will be heard to indicate machine is ready to sew.

Select a pattern. All stitch patterns are orange on the stitch selection panel of your machine.

Touch symbol of pattern you wish to sew. When stitch has been selected, a beep will be heard and a red light will be seen over the selected stitch symbol.

DIGITAL FINE TUNING

To accomodate different fabric charac teristics or satisfy a desired effect, you can change programmed settings by activating Digital Fine Tuning section on machine.

To turn on the Digital Fine Tuning:

1. Touch desired pattern on stitch selection panel. This must always be done first.

2. Touch cated in center of your stitch selection panel. The Digital Fine Tuning, located at the top left section of the panel, will then light up.

Adjustment of Digital Fine Tuning is described on pages 29-31.

t We recommend use of the SLOW speed setting when you

sew with a Flexi-Stitch pattern.

---------

the four black dashes lo

stitch adjustments

USING STITCH LENGTH WITH STRAIGHT STITCH

To increase or decrease stitch length for a straight stitch, follow the procedure below on

two layers of scrap fabric.

Touch i straight stitch.

This must aiways be done first.

Si/.

Touch your stitch selection panel to turn on Digital

Fine Tuning.

If a shorter stitch length is desired, touch ^ . Digits will appear in red, begin ning with digit 5, and will continue to decrease

to minimum stitch length 0. The appearance of each digit will be accompanied by a beep.

If a longer stitch length is desired,

touch 4 . Digits will appear in red, begin

ning with digit 5, and will continue to increase

to maximum stitch length 9. The appearance of each digit will be accompanied by a beep.

When the stitch length or desired digit is ob tained, remove finger from appropriate arrow.

Beeping sound will continue when finger is

left on digits 0 and 9. If you wish to return to a particular stitch

length, make a note of the digit displayed.

-------

four dashes in the center of

4''

.\Ia

LENGTH I I I I

LENGTH

USING STITCH LENGTH WITH OTHER

STITCH PATTERNS

To modify other stitch patterns using stitch length, sew with the length on various digits until you get the stitch pattern fine tuned to the appropriate length to suit application,

fabric, or desired effect.

Note: Because the Fiexi-Stitch patterns are programmed at the best possible stitch length to suit your applications, it will not be necess ary to alter length with the Fiexi-Stitch pat terns on your machine. Fiexi-Stitch patterns are illustrated on page 28.

LENGTH

STITCH BALANCE

To change the appearance of a Flexi-Stitch pattern, adjust the stitch balance on the Digital Fine Tuning section of your machine. Flexi-Stitch patterns are illustrated on page

28. To practice sewing using stitch balance, follow the procedure below using two layers of scrap fabric.

Note: Balance will only operate for patterns in

which balance is needed.

Touch desired pattern. This must always be

done first.

BALANCE

Touch

black dashes located in the center of your stitch selection panel.

Touch if you wish to close up the pat tern. Digits will appear in red, beginning with the programmed balance 5, and will continue to pearance of each digit will be accompanied by a beep.

Touch um if you wish to open up the pat tern. Digits will appear in red, beginning with the programmed balance 5, and will continue to increase to maximum balance 9. The ap pearance of each digit will be accompanied by a beep.

--------

decrease to minimum balance 0. The ap

Digital Fine Tuning — the four

\l/

BALANCE

When desired digit or balance is activated,

remove finger from appropriate arrow.

Beeping sound will continue when finger is left on digits 0 or 9.

STITCH WIDTH

To practice sewing using stitch width, follow the procedure below using two layers of scrap

fabric.

Touch desired pattern. This must always be

done first.

Touch

--------

Digital Fine Tuning—the four black dashes located in the center of your stitch selection panel.

Touch tl- if a decrease in stitch width is desired. Digits will appear in red, beginning with the programmed (maximum) stitch width 9, and will continue to decrease to minimum stitch width 0.

If an increase in width is desired after decreasing it, touch

'WVWV

\1/

WIDTH

Ai/

WIDTH

When desired digit or width is activated, remove finger from appropriate arrow.

Beeping sound will continue when finger is left on digits 0 or 9.

WIDTH

individual preferences

I i

|M^

I I

Your machine will produce most of your stitching requirements in a forward direction at the pro grammed settings. However, if you wish to stitch in reverse, or if you wish to aiter the program med settings to satisfy a desired effect on your fabric, Individuai Preferences — the green symbois on the stitch selection panei —are used as described below and on the following pages.

REVERSE STITCHING

Touching the reverse symbol activates the machine to straight stitch in reverse direc tion. Even if the machine is programmed to sew a stitch pattern in a forward direction, it wili only sew a straight stitch in reverse. The left narrow zig-zag is the only exception to this ruie. It will be the same pattern in reverse.

The reverse symbol can be used in two ways:

instant reverse, and continuous reverse. As a

test, follow the procedures below using two

layers of scrap fabric. Instant Reverse While stitching in a forward

direction, touch il the reverse symbol and the machine wiii straight stitch in reverse for as long as you continue to touch the symbol.

Remove finger from the reverse symboi and the machine wiil again stitch in a forward direction. Instant reverse stitching is suitable for most applications where backstitching is

required to lock the stitching at the beginning and end of a seam, and where the fabric can easily be guided with one hand while the other

hand is being used to activate the reverse stitch symbol.

Continuous Reverse Switch on the machine. Touch i straight stitch, but do not press the speed controller. Touch the reverse symbol and remove your finger from the sym bol. Press the speed controller with your foot and the machine will sew continuously in

reverse until cancelled by a second touch of the reverse symbol or by touching any other

pattern symbol. Continuous reverse is suitable for those applications where backstitching is

required, but the fabric can best be guided and controlled with both hands.

«c

PATTERN REPEAT SYMBOL

The pattern repeat symbol © on your machine lets you sew one unit of a pattern. For example: one arrowhead, one train.

Single Unit Sewing

Procedure

• Touch desired pattern (such as arrowhead shown here). This must always be done first.

• Touch 0 pattern repeat. Red iight will appear above symbol.

• Press down on speed controller.

Machine will stitch one unit of the pattern

each time you foliow this procedure.

You can also use pattern repeat to stitch a series of identical buttonholes, as described on page 95; and to aid in bobbin winding as described in Chapter 2 Getting Ready to Sew, page 23.

TWIN-NEEDLE SYMBOL

Aiways turn on the twin-needle symbol before doing twin-needle sewing. Twin-needle reduces stitch width to suit the double needle. Your machine has a special twin-needle safety feature to prevent needle breakage. To avoid accidental activation or canceliation, there is a longer delay on this symboi than the others — it takes 3/4 second to turn on.

® 0

Pattern Repeat Symbol

.1/

+ (•) -

2X If

3/4 Second Delay when Touched

Red Light

One

Arrowhead

Select twin-needle by touching green sym bol II on stitch selection panel. A beep will be heard and a red light will be seen above the twin-needle symbol to indicate that it has been selected.

When you have finished your twin-needle

sewing, you must always touch the twin-nee dle symbol again to return machine to normal stitch width. Turning the machine off will not

cancel twin-needle.

Touch Symbol Again to Cancel

n'M.';: n!':'i ,;-.r-;'I ; i '. i ,

^Kj-'

MIRROR IMAGE

Mirror image (. automatically reverses the image of a programmed or Digitally Fine

Tuned pattern. For information on Digital Fine

Tuning, see page 28.

•2)

\l/.

■1/.

To sew using mirror image G , follow the procedure below on two layers of scrap fabric.

• Touch symbol of a desired pattern.

• Sew a line of stitching.

• While sewing, touch © pattern repeat. After stitch pattern is completed, up and down motion of needle will stop.

• Remove foot from controller; selected stitch symbol.

Touch

• Sew a line of stitching.

If single pattern is desired with mirror image, touch desired pattern, 0 pattern repeat, then touch ’) mirror image symbol.

Mirror image also allows you to straight stitch

in right needle position. Right needle position allows for controlled sewing on the edges of the fabric.

•)

mirror image.

C -

then touch

Mirror Image Test Procedure

—^'wwvWNA

Obtaining Right Needle Position

To obtain a straight stitch in the right needle position, follow the procedure below on two

layers of scrap fabric.

• Touch I left narrow zig-zag.

• Touch

the stitch selection panel to turn on Digital Fine Tuning.

• Touch

• Sew a line of stitching. For straight stitching in left needle position, see

Chapter 5, Basic Zig-Zag Stitching page 51.

CAUTION: Straight stitch accessories may

not be used when straight stitching in left or

right needle position.

-------

four dashes in the center of

to decrease stitch width to 0.

mirror image symbol.

' ''''Aaa,> '' ' : ^ ’'''’'V'An A '

A7 WAV \/,\7 W \ / \ / \//WA/'WA/'V.'\./,WA'/

;\AA\./7'''\'/:\A'\VA7 \V-\7AV'-\/AVAV7V:A7AV7V7VA«

2X (two-times) automatically doubles the

stitch length of a programmed stitch or

Digitally Fine Tuned pattern. For information on Digital Fine Tuning, see page 28. 2X used with two threads and the programmed straight stitch is ideal for topstitching on heavy fabric such as denim. It is also ideal for tailor tacking when more space is desired between the tailor tacks.

2X is ideal for decorative work. Using it ena

bles you to obtain pattern variation in a border design, such as the one shown at the top of this page.

'"'''H, - , '

■■ . . ...- A- .- ./-'W ~-.WW'

'7.. X ■''-■■-'WW.

.V1/,

To practice sewing using the 2X symbol, follow the procedure below on two layers of

scrap fabric.

Touch symbol of a desired pattern. When

stitch has been turned on a beep will be heard and a red light will be seen over the symbol.

• Then touch 2X symbol.

• Sew.

.N1/,

.\l/

Chapter 4. Straight Stitching

preparation

I I

Touch ; to turn on straight stitch. A red light will be seen above the stitch sym

bol to indicate that the machine is ready to produce a basic straight stitch.

Straight stitch needle plate and foot are best for all straight stitching. The straight stitch foot aliows you to control the fabric easily when stitching around a curve or close to the fabric edge. The design of the foot helps pre vent skipped stitches.

The straight stitch foot is to be used on/y with

the straight stitch needle plate. When you use the straight stitch needle plate your machine will only sew a straight stitch even if you touch another pattern symboi by mistake.

Always change back to the appropriate nee dle plate and presser foot when doing sewing other than straight stitching.

Use of Reverse Stitch Symbol

If you wish to reinforce the beginning or end of a seam, touch and keep finger on the reverse stitch symboi ll .

Machine wiii only sew a straight stitch in reverse for as long as you touch the symbol.

For additional information on reverse stitching see page 32 in Chapter 3, Electronic Sewing.

REGULATING PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE

Correct pressure is important to feed fabrics smoothiy and eveniy. The NORM, (normai) setting is an all-purpose setting that can be used for sewing a wide variety of fabrics of different weight and texture. Alternative set

tings (4-) and (—) above and below NORM,

(normal) are also provided. Lower presser foot before setting pressure.

• To increase pressure, turn dial from NORM,

toward MAX.

• To decrease pressure, turn dial from NORM,

toward ^ .

• For darning, set dial on ^ .

NEEDLE THREAD TENSION

Having selected the correct needle and

thread combination for the fabric being used,

it may be necessary to adjust the tension of

the sewing machine to insure a well balanced

stitch.

A well balanced stitch is produced when the

top and under thread appear the same on the

fabric.

Your machine has an adjustable top tension

control system. This control exerts tension on the top and under thread as they pass through the machine to form a stitch.

• Too much tension will produce a tight stitch which will cause puckered seams.

• Too little tension will produce a loose stitch.

When an even amount of tension is exerted on

both threads, a smooth even stitch known as a balanced stitch, is produced.

Tension Test

To help understand the effect of tension on fabric and thread, try this simple test:

• Take two pieces of a medium weight woven fabric in a solid light color about six inches

long.

• Place a 2020 size 14 needle in the machine.

• Thread the top of your machine with a

polyester or mercerized dark color thread and use a lighter color thread of the same fiber and size in the bobbin.

• Touch

straight stitch.

• Seam the two pieces of fabric together start ing with the top tension control at 0. Then as

you sew, slowly turn the tension control from 0 through 9.

• Sew another row turning the dial back to 0.

You should have a balanced stitch on each row mid-way between the start and finish in each case.

• The different colored threads will help you

to see the effect that the tension has on the top and bottom threads.

Now that you have observed the effects of tension, we suggest that you perform a similar test on a scrap of the fabric you plan to use,

being sure to duplicate the number of thicknesses of your garment.

Needle Thread Tension

fabric handling

PIN BASTING

Pin basting is a time saver and can be used when you sew easy-to-handle fabrics. Use fine pins and piace them so that:

• They are at right angles to the presser foot and just nip into the fabric at the stitching

line.

• They do not extend beyond both sides of the presser foot. Never place pins on the under side of the fabric in contact with the feed.

• Sew, pulling pins out of fabric as you stitch. We do not recommend sewing over pins.

SPEED BASTING

The basting stitch produces temporary long stitches in a variety of lengths. This allows you to choose the correct length for your sew ing job, considering the weight of your fabric and how securely the pieces need to be held together. A few of the many sewing jobs for which you will find speed basting particularly useful are:

Speed Basting on Garment Section

• Joining seams for trial fittings

• Basting pleats, hems and seams

• Stitch: speed basting

• Stitch length: programmed or to suit application

or fabric

• General purpose needle plate

• General purpose foot

• Speed range: SLOW

Note: The Even Feed foot cannot be used for speed basting.

Select needle and thread according to your fabric. A fine needle and a soft pliable thread are recommended when basting stitches are

not to be removed before pressing, as in the case of pleats or hems. Choose a thread color to contrast with your fabric so that it can be seen easily.

Procedure

Thread the machine in the usuai way.

1. Touch I speed basting. When selected the machine wiil automatically take one short straight stitch to secure basting start.

2. Adjust to the length of basting stitch desired — stitches approximately 1 inch (2.5cm) long are recommended for seam basting —and proceed. Stitch slowly, sup porting the fabric in front and back of the presser foot if stitches are more than 112- inch (1.3cm) long.

CAUTION: Do not pull the fabric while you are stitching as this may deflect the needle, causing it to break.

3. To secure end of basting touch i straight stitch and take a few short stitches.

Stitch Length

Basting a Seam

Stitch length control located in the Digital Fine

Tuning section of the stitch selection panel

(see page 29) regulates the length of basting stitches. Because the interval at which the needle enters the fabric is changed when you machine baste, the length of the stitch is no longer the same as for regular stitching.

Touch 2X when an extra long basting stitch is

desired.

Thread Tension

Speed basting requires a light needle thread

tension. When tension is correctly adjusted,

stitches up to 1 inch (2.5cm) long should lie

flat in firm fabrics. If stitches are longer than 1

inch, place tension on the fabric by holding it lightly in front and back of the presser foot as

you sew, to prevent pucker. Refer to page 37 for further information on

needle thread tension.

THE EVEN FEED FOOT

The Even Feed foot improves the feeding of fabrics that tend to stick, stretch, or slip while

being sewn. The foot feeds top and bottom fabric layers together so that seams start, feed and end evenly. At the same time, the

hold-and-lift action makes it ideal for stay stitching and for topstitching. The Even Feed foot should always be used with the general

purpose needle plate.

Use It When Stitching:

• Knits, stretch fabrics, synthetics

• Shiny fabrics — vinyls, patents, satins

• Plaids, stripes, patterns

• Bonded fabrics

• Pile fabrics — velvets, fake furs, brushed

fabrics

• Leather and leather-look fabrics

• Dungaree seams, welt and slot seams

• Belts, waistbands, and patch pockets

• Blanket binding and pleats

Do Not Use It When:

• Speed Basting

• Using 2X

• Sewing with Flexi-Stitch patterns (Flexi-

Stitch patterns illustrated on page 28.)

Preparing Fabric

The Even Feed foot will not correct inac

curacies in weaving and cutting, so make sure the grain (of woven fabric) or rib (of knits) is true when you cut your garment. If you are sewing a stripe, plaid, or print, cut fabric pieces to match exactly at the seam

line. Line up fabric edges (and first stripe)

carefully at seam starts and secure with a pin placed at right angle to the seam line.

Most short seams do not have to be pinned. But for seams in plaids and for long or shaped seams, pinning is advisable.

sewing a seam

PREPARATION

• Stitch; straight stitch I

• Stitch length; programmed or to suit application

• Straight stitch needle plate

• Straight stitch foot

Thread machine in the usual way.

PLACE FABRIC UNDER FOOT

Most fabrics can be placed under the foot by raising the presser foot lifter A to its normal up position 1, where it locks. When using bulky

fabric, multiple fabric layers, or an embroidery

hoop, raise the presser foot lifter to the high rise position 2, thus increasing the space be tween foot and needle plate. Hold presser foot lifter in position while placing fabric under the presser foot.

• Lower presser foot lifter all the way down and start to sew.

or fabric

SEWING WITH A NEWLY WOUND

BOBBIN

When starting to stitch at the fabric edge:

• Position needle in very edge of fabric, by turning the hand wheel toward you.

• Lower the presser foot and stitch. Thread will lock over fabric edge.

When starting to stitch away from fabric edge:

• Leave presser foot in its upper position.

• Pull thread back under presser foot and cut.

• Position needle in from fabric edge, then lower the presser foot and stitch.

Backstitch to lock stitching by touching the reverse stitch symbol [i while sewing.

Only a few stitches are needed to lock stitch

ing line in place. Do not go over edge of fabric.

KEEPING SEAMS STRAIGHT

To keep the seam straight, use one of the numbered guidelines on the plate. The num bers indicate distance, in eighths of an inch, from the needle. If you want a 5/8-inch (1,6cm) seam, for example, line up your fabric with the number 5 guideline. Note that both number 5 guidelines (the most commonly used) are extended on the slide plate for your convenience: the crosslines serve as guides when stitching a square corner.

For extra help in keeping the seam straight,

you may wish to use the seam guide. Because

it allows you to guide stitches evenly between

1/8-inch (3mm) and 1-1/4 inches (3cm) from the fabric edge, it is particularly useful for very narrow or very wide seams.

To attach seam guide to machine, refer to Chapter 2 Getting Ready to Sew, page 10.

Pivoting at Corner

TURNING SQUARE CORNERS

To turn a square corner 5/8-inch (1.6cm)

from the fabric edge, you need not measure or

mark the seam. Simply use the crosslines on

the slide plate.

• Line up your fabric with right or left guideline 5 on the needle plate. Stitch seam, slowing speed as you approach corner.

• Stop stitching, with the needle down, when the bottom edge of the fabric reaches the cornering crosslines on the slide plate.

• Raise presser foot slightly and turn fabric on

needle, bringing bottom edge of fabric in line with guideline 5.

•

• Lower the presser foot and stitch in new direction.

CURVED SEAMS

• Use a short stitch for elasticity and strength. Use the stitch length control in the Digital Fine Tuning section of the machine to obtain a short stitch for curved seams. For addi

tional information on stitch length, refer to

Chapter 3 Electronic Sewing, page 29.

If you use the seam guide, attach it at an

angle so that the edge that is closer to the needle acts as a guide.

Stitching a Curved Seam

i I

REINFORCING END OF SEAM

• Stitch to the edge of the fabric. (Do not sew beyond edge of fabric.)

• Touch I'l’ reverse stitch symbol while

sewing and hold in place. Backstitch ap proximately 1/2-inch (1.3cm) to reinforce end of seam. Release reverse stitch symbol.

• Raise needle to its highest position by turn ing hand wheel toward you and raise presser

foot. Remove the fabric by drawing it to the back and left.

• Cut threads on thread cutter at rear of presser bar.

For additional information on reverse stitch ing, refer to Chapter 3 Electronic Sewing, page 32.

Reverse Stitching

applications

DARNING

Worn or torn spots on children’s clothes, knits, and household linens can be darned effortlessly and quickly with little practice. You may choose to darn either with or without

accessories. When greater control is needed,

use the accessories. For information on at taching the darning and embroidery foot, refer to Chapter 2 Getting Ready to Sew, page 8.

With Accessoriest

• Touch ! straight stitch. Position work in hoop and carefully place

hoop under foot, then lower the presserbar to

engage tension.

• Hold needle thread loosely with left hand, turn hand wheel toward you, and draw bob

bin thread up through fabric. Hold both thread ends and lower needle into fabric. Snip off thread ends after a few stitches.

• stitch: straight stitch |

• Stitch length: digitally fine tuned at 0

• Feed cover plate

• Darning and embroidery foot

• Trim ragged edges from area to be darned and center worn section in embroidery hoop designed for machine use.

•

• Outline area to be darned with running stitches for reinforcement as illustrated.

• Stitch across opening, moving hoop diagonally back and forth under foot. Keep

lines of stitching closely spaced and even in length.

• When opening is filled, cover area with crosswise lines of stitching as illustrated.

Darning with Embroidery Hoop

iFlip & Sew panel should be up when darning with embroidery hoop.

DARNING

Without Accessories

• stitch: straight stitch 1

• Stitch length: programmed or to suit application or fabric

• General purpose needle plate

• Special purpose foot or general purpose foot

• Pressure: m (darn)

• Touch ! straight stitch.

• If area to be darned is open, for reinforce

ment baste an underlay in place. Place area to be darned under presser foot;

lower presser foot and start stitching, alter nately drawing fabric ioward you and pulling it gently away from you.

• Continue this forward and backward motion

as you fill the area with parallel lines of

stitching. For additional strength, cover area

with crosswise lines of stitching.

HESITATION EMBROIDERY

Hesitation embroidery is free-motion embroidery using speed basting. The time

lapse that occurs between needle penetra tions permits unhurried hoop movement. It also permits unusually long stitches, as well as short ones for unique decorative effects.

Darning Without Accessories

• Stitch: basting stitch

• Stitch length: digitally fine tuned at 0

• Feed cover plate

• Darning and embroidery foot

• Speed range: SLOW

Trace or transfer design outline to fabric and center in embroidery hoop. Be sure the hoop

is designed for use with a sewing machine so

that hoop will easily pass under the needle. Touch j speed basting. Carefully position hoop under needle, lower

presser bar, and raise bobbin thread. Move hoop back and forth, filling design with

long and short stitches as in regular free-motion embroidery, as described in Chapter 5 Basic Zig-Zag Stitching, page 56.

Hesitation Embroidery

QUILTING

Quilting is the art of stitching two or more thicknesses of fabric together in a planned design. A padding is stitched to the underside of the fabric to produce a soft, puffed effect that is becoming to some wearing apparel and to many fabric furnishings.

• Stitch: straight stitch 1

• Stitch length: programmed or to suit application or fabric

• Straight stitch needle plate

• Straight stitch foot

Note: For best results use the quilting foot available for separate purchase at your local Singer store.

Preparing the Fabric

Baste a light padding of cotton flannel, syn thetic quilt batting, sheet wadding, or a light

weight wool interlining to the underside of the fabric. When using sheet wadding, first back it with voile, batiste, or net to preserve the sheet wadding through wear. Baste the layers of fabric and padding together on the lengthwise and crosswise grains.

Basic Procedure

• Touch

straight stitch.

• Draw both threads under the foot and diagonally across feed to left.

• Position the needle, lower the foot and start stitching.

Note: If you are quilting a very large piece, work from the center of the fabric to the edges. Guide the fabric with both hands.

If the fabric has a floral or scroll design, the pattern in the fabric can be your quilting design. Stitch it from the top side.

CHAINSTITCHING

Single-thread chainstitching looks like regular straight stitching on top but is a series of in terlocking loops on the underside of the fabric. The stitches are produced by the needle thread

alone so you do not need a bobbin thread or a bobbin. Because the stitches are formed by a single thread, the interlocked loops ravel

easily, allowing the entire line of stitching to be

removed with just a pull on the thread end.

Preparation

Select needle and thread according to your fabric. A soft mercerized thread is recom mended for chainstitching. Thread the machine in the usual way up to the take-up lever. Then pass the thread through the chainstitch thread guide, as illustrated, and continue threading in the usual manner. Then follow the procedure

below.

• Raise take-up lever to highest position and raise presser foot. Open slide plate.

• Remove needle plate.

• Move bobbin latch to left and remove bobbin.

• Place bobbin case insert in bobbin case as

shown, with finger of insert positioned under

the feed.

• Position chainstitch needle plate over mag netic pins, making certain that the post of

the bobbin case insert finger enters the hole

in the plate. Close slide plate.

• Touch

straight stitch.

Adjusting Tension

To set the tension correctly for chainstitching, set the tension dial on 3 and make a test sam

ple on your fabric. If the loops in the chain on the underside of the fabric are loose and ir regular in size, increase tension. When the tension is correctly adjusted, the chain will be flat and smooth and the fabric unpuckered.

• To increase tension, turn dial to a higher

number.

• To decrease tension, turn dial to a lower

number.

Sewing a Chainstitch Seam

• stitch: straight stitch I

• Stitch iength: programmed

• Bobbin case insert

• Chainstitch needle plate

• Straight stitch foot

Starting and Chaining Off

1. Turn hand wheel toward you to position needle in very edge of fabric. Lower the

presser foot.

2. Start the machine, and stitch to end of seam. Continue stitching beyond edge of fabric, making a chain from 1 to 2 inches

long (2.5 to 5cm). Chainstitching can be

sewn in a forward direction only. Do not at

tempt to stitch in reverse.

3. Cut chain between fabric and presser foot.

4. After chaining off, start a new line of stitch

ing by raising the presser foot slightly and positioning the fabric in front of needle. Lower presser foot and stitch to end of seam.

Releasing the Chain from Machine

Releasing the Chain from the Machine

When you finish chainstitching, the chain can

easily be removed from the machine.

• Raise presser foot.

• Hold end of chain with your left hand.

• Turn hand wheel slowly toward you with your right hand until needle is all the way down in

the needle hole.

• Then turn hand wheel slowly away from you

pulling gently on chain, which will unravel as needle rises.

Note: This is the only time you should ever

turn hand wheel away from you.

Removing Chainstitching from Fabric

Chainstitching can be removed smoothly and cleanly in seconds by freeing the last stitch

formed in the fabric.

1. Simply cut the last loop formed on the un derside of the fabric.

2. Pick up the free thread end from the top of the fabric.

3. Pull the free thread end, removing entire

line of stitching.

Removing the Chainstitch Accessories

• Raise take-up lever to highest position and

raise presser foot.

• Open slide plate and remove the chainstitch

needle plate.

• Move bobbin latch to left and lift out the bob

bin case insert by pushing down post and lifting insert out on an angle.

Removing the Stitching

• Replace general purpose or straight stitch

needle plate and bobbin (see pages 9 and

25). Close slide plate.

•

• Unthread chainstitch thread guide and

rethread for regular sewing.

Post

Removing Chainstitch Plate

y\AA/VVWVVVVVVV\M/VVVV\AA^VVVv^/VV‘^A/V\/\AA/\AAA/vV\ÀAA/\A/VV'^MAA/\AA/VVv\'0/V\¥\M

"A.

; ^

A- <

AA:

WAWMAAyVV\A/VV\4A/V\AAA/vV\A/VVV\A/\AW'/Vy\AAMAAAAA/\A/\AAVvVVWVV'AAA/W\MMAVvv\^ ^

Chapter 5. Basic Zig-Zag Stitching

ZiG-ZAG STiTCHING

• Stitch: zig-zag |

• Stitch width: programmed or to suit application

• Stitch length: programmed or to suit application

• General purpose needle plate

• General purpose foot or special purpose foot

Procedure

• Touch I on the stitch selection panel of your machine to turn on the zig-zag stitch. A beep will be heard and a red light will appear above the zig-zag symbol to indicate that the machine is ready to produce a basic zig zag stitch at maximum stitch width and stitch length. Maximum stitch width in the Digital Fine Tuning section of machine is 9.

or fabric

Too Tight

Changing Stitch Length & Width

To change stitch length or width refer to Chapter 3 Electronic Sewing, pages 29 & 31.

Adjusting Needle Thread Tension

Zig-zag stitching usually requires less needle thread tension than straight stitching. Thread

machine correctly and make a test sample

with the same fabric, thread, needle and stitch

pattern combination you plan to use. Stitches

should lie flat without causing fabric to

pucker. If puckering occurs, lower the tension by turn

ing dial to a lower number. An underlay or

tissue paper backing may be needed.

V\A/\A/\A/VVVv\AA/\AAA/\

LEFT NARROW ZIG-ZAG STITCHING

The left narrow zig-zag stitch is simply a narrow zig-zag in left needle position. Left needle position allows for controlled sewing on the edges of your fabric.

\ /\/\/\/\/\/\A./\/

• Stitch; left narrow zig-zag \

• Stitch length: programmed or to suit application or fabric

• General purpose needle plate

• Special purpose foot

Procedure

• Turn machine on.

• Touch \ left narrow zig-zag.

• Sew.

Sewing in Right Needle Position

The left narrow zig-zag may also be placed in

right needle position for effective use in decorative stitching.

To sew a narrow zig-zag in right needle posi tion, first follow the procedure below using two layers pf scrap fabric.

• Touch I left narrow zig-zag symbol to turn on this stitch.

• Touch

• Sew.

Mirror image also allows you to straight stitch

in right needle position. For additional infor mation refer to Chapter 3 Electronic Sewing, page 34.

mirror image.

C-

/\y\/VVN/\/

/V'\AA/vVV'\A/'\AA-'VVVVVVVvV\AAA/\/'V"

.\i/.

Straight Stitching in Left Needle Position

The left narrow zig-zag allows you to straight

stitch in left needle position. Left needle posi tion permits controlled sewing on fabric edges.

To obtain a straight stitch in left needle posi tion, follow the procedure below on two layers of scrap fabric.

• Touch \ left narrow zig-zag.

• Touch

center of the stitch selection panel to turn on Digital Fine Tuning.

• Touch ^ to decrease stitch width to 0.

• Sew.

---------

four black dashes in the

WIDTH

ZIG-ZAG SEAM FINISHES

Seam edges support the garment and should be given a durable finish if the fabric is likely to ravel. There are two methods of finishing seams in such fabrics: method 1, trimming after stitch ing seam edge, or method 2, overedging. Make a test sample first to determine which method best suits your fabric.

Method 1 —Trimmed Seam Finish

• stitch: zig-zag | or multi-stitch zig-zag 5

• Stitch width: programmed or to suit application

• Stitch length: programmed or to suit application

• General purpose needle plate

• General purpose foot

or fabric

• Select appropriate stitch pattern.

• Adjust stitch width and length if necessary.

• Place stitching near the edge of the seam allowance.

• Trim seam edges evenly, as shown, after stitching is completed.

Method 2 — Overedged Seam Finish

• stitch: zig-zag | or multi-stitch zig-zag 5'

• Stitch width: programmed or to suit application

• Stitch length: programmed or to suit application

• General purpose needle plate

• General purpose foot

or fabric

Trim seam edges evenly. Adjust stitch length and width if necessary. Piace stitching over the trimmed edge of the

seam allowance as illustrated.

LINGERIE SEAMS

• Stitch: zig-zag | or left narrow zig-zag |

• Stitch width: programmed or to suit application

• Stitch length: programmed or to suit application

• General purpose needle plate

• General purpose foot

or fabric

* •

To make a lingerie seam durable and flexible,

use the plain zig-zag stitch at a narrow width setting or the left narrow zig-zag stitch. This seam treatment is particularly suitable for bias seams. When seaming nylon tricot, insert a Yellow Band needle Style 2045, in the machine before you begin to sew.

• Straight stitch the seam on wrong side of

fabric.

• Press both seam allowances in the same

direction.

• From the right side, topstitch with narrow zig

zag stitching, letting the needle enter the seam

line and the seam allowance alternately.

Lingerie Seam

creative applications

Zig-zag stitching has found a soiid place in home sewing. The zig-zag stitch can be used

creatively as well as practically. The following examples are effective uses of the zig-zag stitch. The results are left up to your imagination and ingenuity.

SATIN STITCHING

• Stitch: zig-zag |

• Stitch width: programmed or to suit appiication

or fabric

• Stitch length: digitaiiy fine tuned at 3 or less

• General purpose needle plate

• Special purpose foot

Make a test sample first so that you can ad just the stitch length and thread tension pro perly for desired effect.

Soft fabrics may require a backing to insure firm satin stitching. Crisp organdy, fusible in terfacing, or lawn is suitable.

Note: Other decorative stitch patterns ex cept stretch stitch patterns, may be sewn at satin stitch length.

Satin stitching, a series of closely spaced zig zag stitches that form a smooth, satin-like surface, is useful for both utility and decora tive work. It is accomplished by sewing a zig zag stitch with stitch length digitally fine tuned at 3 or less depending on fabric and desired effect. For best results the special purpose foot should be used.

WIDTH

Adjusting Stitch Length for Satin Stitching

Make the following test on two layers of scraps from the fabric you plan to use, with a backing if appropriate.

• Touch I zig-zag.

• Touch

of the stitch selection panel to activate Digital Fine Tuning.

• Touch ^ to set stitch lengthens.

• Run the machine at SLOW speed.

• After sewing approximately 3 inches,

touch V to set stitch length on 2. Sew approximately 3 inches, and then touch ^ to set stitch length on 1, then 0.

• Choose the setting at which stitches are

closely spaced and form a smooth surface.

Stitch width may be varied in a similar man

ner. For additional information on stitch width

see Chapter 3 Electronic Sewing, page 31.

--------

the four dashes in the center

¿WVW\

Incorrect Correct

Tension Adjustment for Satin Stitching

Adjusting Tension for Satin Stitching

Satin stitching generally requires even less tension than open zig-zag stitching. Further

more, the wider the satin stitch, the lighter the

tension on the thread must be. Thus, a stitch width setting of 9 requires the least tension;

narrower stitching requires somewhat more. Notice the stitching on your sample. If the

stitching looks too taut, or if the fabric is

puckering, lower the needle thread tension by

turning the tension dial to a lower number.

APPLIQUE Preparation

Make a test sample to decide which of the following methods is the most appropriate for your fabric and design. Mark design on piece of fabric to be appliquêd. Cut out design leav

ing about 3/4-inch (2cm) margin all around. Position the design.

Baste it to the fabric.

Method 1

• Touch pattern and stitch width for desired appliqué stitch. Adjust stitch length to a set ting of 3 or iess.

• Follow the outer edge of the design with a decorative stitch.

• Trim away the excess fabric on the outer

edges of the stitching.

Method 2

• Touch I straight stitch.

• Outline the entire design with a short stitch.

• Trim raw edges of the design to the straight stitching and remove basting.

• Select suitable stitch pattern and stitch width desired, and set stitch length on a satin stitch setting for a closely spaced stitch, 3 or less.

• Stitch, following the straight stitch outline. This method will produce a smooth over edged finish, with no raw edges to be trim med after stitching.

Method 3

• Purchased motifs can be appliqued quickly and easily by using either a straight or decorative stitch.

Method 3

FREE-MOTION EMBROIDERY

In free-motion embroidery, you sew without a presser foot and control fabric movement by means of an embroidery hoop. Either a straight or a plain zig-zag stitch can be used.

Because you can move the hoop in any direc tion — forward or backward, from side to side, or even diagonally — free-motion stitching is extremely useful for embroidery designs. The

hoop should be one designed for machine

use.

You can vary the length of stitches simply by

moving the hoop faster or slower under the needle. The faster you move the hoop, the longer the stitches will be. You can also vary

the width of zig-zag stitches from wide to nar

row by controlling the angle at which the hoop is placed and moved under the needle.

Flower Embroidery

• stitch: zig-zag |

• Stitch width: to suit application or fabric

• Feed cover plate

• No presser foot or shank

• Speed range: SLOW

Preparation

Trace design on right side of fabric. Prepare the area to be embroidered using an underlay

if the fabric is soft. Place the work in an

embroidery hoop approximately 7 inches

(18cm) in diameter. If the design to be

embroidered covers a large area, it will be

necessary to reposition the work in the hoop

as each section is completed.

Completed Flower Design

The darning and embroidery foot may be used to assist fabric control.

Procedure

• Position work under needle and lower presser bar to engage tension.

• Hold needle thread loosely and turn hand wheel toward you to bring bobbin thread up

through fabric. Hold both thread ends and lower needle into fabric.

• Stitch, outlining or filling in design with zig zag stitches. For a smooth, satiny surface,

place parallel stitches close together, mov ing hoop slowly and steadily. For an irregu lar texture, move the hoop more rapidly, allowing some stitches to overlap.

A series of bar tacks can be used to form spray-like leaves or flowers. This technique adds variety and lightness to many designs.

Leaves and petals formed in this way may carry the thread from one bar tack to the next. This carrying thread eliminates tying of the thread ends.

(^^edÙAje (^deoA.

... shown on these pages are a few ideas for creative, functional and decorative stitching You will think of many more as you become familiar with the versatile capability of your new machine.

Potholders. . . weave a web of enchantment around your culinary arts with the straight stitch on your machine... and for quilting and reinforcing the edges of potholders, the multi-stitch zig-zag is

ideal.

‘ i;„

Handbag and Accessories ...turn a simple project into a designer’s delight by embellishing the fabric with the leaf stitch. Use the left-over pieces to make practical matching accessories such as a cosmetic or an eyeglass case.

Pinafore...stitch a light and airy look into this pinafore with a fagoted seam using the featherstitch... add a feminine

touch by inserting lace with the

same stitch.

Table Linens...customize your napkins, placemats and tablecloths into matching sets with Turkish hemstitching and fringed edges... or sew a napkin pocket onto a placemat trimmed with the Paris point stitch... or how about a ric-rac trimmed placemat which rolls up to enclose a matching napkin and utensils... all secured with a buttonholed tab and a button.

Towels...personalize household linens and towels with bold initials appliqu^d with satin stitch.

Blanket...freshen up those tired old blankets by attaching a new binding with the blanket-binding stitch.

Appliance Covers...hide your toaster, blender and other appliances under pretty covers edged with the heart stitch and appliqudd with motifs from the same fabric as used to make your

kitchen curtains.

Pillows. . . let your imagination run wild... design pillows using the decorative stitches and twin-needle or mirror Image to complement your decor and your color schemes.

Cummerbund...use a free-form hesitation embroidery design to create a field of daisies on your favorite sash.

Caftan...dressing up a pattern can be done effectively by using the decorative stitches on your machine. Design lovely borders with the honeycomb, ribbon and

icicle stitches.

Shawl...sew a decorative trim on an evening shawl with the traditionally functional chainstitch.

Ties...enhance his favorite tie with one of your favorite stitches... the arrowhead will go straight to his heart... the maxi-stretch stitch adds a masculine touch.

Vest...achieve a bold effect on a vest by twin-needle topstitching with the maxi-stretch stitch.

ifeiiliill

¡mlr ■

Shirt...individualize a shirt yoke with a random design of stitch patterns between the stripes of the fabric.

Pocket...decorate with buttonholes...

choose a field of green... weave ribbons

through the buttonholes... sew a crop of

daisy ribbons to border the entire design,

Bonnets...endow your family with an heirloom of the future. The delicate lace stitch highlights the soft tucks which crown this infant’s day.

... keep on the straight and narrow when adding a ribbon with the straight stitch using the adjustable feed feature of your machine.

... use the leaf stitch to add an individual touch to a ribbon before applying it to

this dainty bonnet.

...touch the train stitch symbol and create a unique cap for a would-be engineer.

Doll’s House...the train stitch combined S

with the dress-weight tailor tack stitch, ^

used as an imitation triage, add a real homemaker’s touch to this dollhouse room '

setting

Shoe Tidy...make it easy for the children

to keep their room tidy and make sewing it

easy for yourself... The Even Feed foot

keeps plaids matched.

Wall Hanging ...cut motifs from a printed fabric and appliqué them with satin stitching to make this eye-catching circus-theme wall hanging.

Pillows... expand the circus theme... add free-motion embroidery to personalize your little boy’s bedroom.

Belt...combine canvas and vinyl with ric-rac and arrowhead stitching to produce a belt with a professional finish.

Sports Bag...score on the courts with your very own sports bag. The canvas

motif is trimmed with imitation leather and

etched with a straight stitch, then

appliqu^d with satin stitch.

Chapter 6. Machine Stitch Patterns

adjusting stitches to suit stretch fabrics

GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC

Most fabrics of stretch or knit construction

need only to be guided in front of the presser foot when you use one of the stretch stitches. Some fabrics — nylon tricot and elasticized fabrics, for example — do require support while being stitched.

• For nylon tricot and similar synthetic knits, apply gentie tension by holding the seam in

front and back of the presser foot as you

sew.

• For elasticized fabric, stretch lace, and knits with an unusual amount of elasticity, apply

firm tension in front and back of the presser

foot to stretch the seam as the stitches are

being placed.

CAUTION: Do not pull the fabric while you are stitching as this may deflect the needle, caus ing it to break.

‘ 'X ''i "■ ^

Applying Firm Tension

ADJUSTING PRESSURE WHEN

SEWING KNIT AND STRETCH FABRIC

Some knit and stretch fabrics, because of their structure, require either more or less than normal feed smoothly and evenly.

• For thick, soft or very stretchy knits,

decrease pressure by turning dial from

NORM, (normal) toward ^ (darn).

• For nylon tricot, ciré and similar hard sur

face synthetic knits, increase pressure by turning dial from NORM, (normal) toward

MAX. (maximum).

(NORM.) presser bar pressure to

•

handling special fabrics

Many fabrics, because of their construction or finish, demand special attention in sewing. Tech niques used in stitching and handling, and choice of machine accessories, will vary with the

fabric. Let the table below guide your selection.

FABRIC HANDLING TABLE

FABRIC

VINYL —

leather-look, patent, suede, reptile

PILE —

velvet, velveteen, corduroy

DEEP PILE —

fake fur

NAPPED FABRIC —

cashmere, mohair, camel hair

BLANKET BINDING —

satin face

BPEipiAL HANDLING

Use transparent tape as a substitute for pins or basting —Topstitch to hold seams and edges flat — Avoid worked (machine) buttonholes. Use bound buttonholes.

Stitch In direction of nap — Use plain seams — Zig-Zag or bind seam edges to prevent fray ing — Press over a self-fabric cloth.

Pin rather than baste seams —Stitch in direc tion of nap — Use plain seams for short-hair furs; narrow overedged seams for shaggy, bulky furs — Shear pile from seam allowances to reduce bulk.

Cut with nap running down — Sew in direction of nap — Topstitch to hold seams and edges flat.

Hand-baste binding to blanket (pin marks show) — Miter corners.

STITCH

Length-“

Long Straight Stitch

Programmed Straight Stitch

for seams

Medium Zig-Zag or Honeycomb Stitch for overcasting

Long Straight Stitch for plain

seams

Medium to Short Zig-Zag Stitch for overedged seams

Medium to Long

Straight Stitch

Programmed

Blanket Binding

Stitch

NEEDLE

Stylé-Size

style 2020

Size 14 or 16 for woven backing Style 2045 Size 14 or 16 for knit backing

Style 2020 Size 14 Style 2045 Size 14 or 16 for panne velvet

Style 2020 Size 16

Style 2020 Size 11 or 14

MACHINE

ACCESSORIES

Even Feed Foot

General Purpose Needle Plate

Even Feed Foot

(General Purpose Foot only for overcasting) General Purpose Needle Plate

Even Feed Foot

General Purpose Needle Plate

Even Feed Foot

General Purpose

Needle Plate

Even Feed Foot

Genera! Purpose Needle Plate

PERMANENT PRESS —

percale, broadcloth, shirting

FINE

KNITS —

tricot, jersey

SOFT SHEER —

chiffon, voile, China silk

Control seam tension manually by holding fabric taut as It passes under the presser foot. Sew at moderate speed.

Use narrow overedged, double stitched, or French seams —Hold thread ends securely for

a few stitches at start of seam — Support seams while stitching — see page 67 — Increase presser foot pressure — see page 57 — Use un-, derlay or backing if appropriate.

Use French seams, double stitched — Hold needle and bobbin threads when you begin to stitch—Support fabric while stitching —see page 67 — Use backing If appropriate.

Programmed Straight Stitch

Medium to Long Straight Stitch Medium to Short Narrow Zig-Zag or Narrow

Overedge

Medium to Short Straight Stitch

Style 2020 Size 11 or 14

Style 2045 Size 11 or 14

Style 2020 Size 9 or 11

Straight Stitch Foot and Needle Plate

Straight Stitch Foot and Needle Plate (for straight stitching) General Purpose Foot and Needle

Plate (for zig-zag

stitching)

Straight Stitch Foot and Needle Plate

stitch centering

• Stitch: stitch desired

• Stitch width: programmed or to suit appiication

• Stitch length: programmed or to suit application

• General purpose needle plate

• Special purpose foot

• Speed range: SLOW

or fabric

* •

When sewing, it is important to correctly

guide the stitches on your fabric to achieve centered stitching. A line of stitching is cen tered when it lies evenly on an imaginary line on the fabric. To clearly see what stitch cen tering is, and to practice even stitch guidance and machine control, try the test below.

Use a light color top and under thread for this test. This will demonstrate to you how a cor rectly centered line of stitching lies on a given line.

• Attach special purpose foot. Notice that foot is clear plastic for better visibility and has vertical black line in the center to guide stitch placement on fabric.

• Touch ' straight stitch.

• Draw a vertical line on a sheet of paper or use graph paper, if available.

• Place paper under presser foot with drawn line centered under black vertical guideline of special purpose foot.

• Lower needle by turning hand wheel toward you. and position it on drawn line of paper.

• Lower presser foot.

• Carefully sew along the drawn line on the paper, using black vertical guideline of foot to guide stitching. Do not watch needle.

• After you have sewn along the drawn line, carefully remove paper from under presser foot.

If you have correctly guided the paper while

sewing, the stitched line will be centered.

Notice that the stitching lies evenly on the

drawn line. Try a paper sampler using a variety of stitches

to practice stitch centering. To assure centered stitching on the fabrics

you sew, use a guideline marked with tailor’s chalk.

Centered Stitching on Sampler

stitch usage: functional and decorative

Many stitches on your new machine have both functionai and decorative appiications. The foiiowing pages include exampies to illustrate the versatility of these stitches. Though many stitches can perform in a given application, to avoid repetition oniy one stitch has been used in each exampie. We, therefore, hope that the exampies provided wiil help you to use your own creative taients.

The featherstitch is an extremely versatile stitch. Use it for stretchable straight

stitch seams in knit and stretch fabric at stitch width 0, and for fagoting, embroidering and quilting. There are numerous applications for the featherstitch. Two of them

y have been provided below.

FEATHERSTITCH

Fagoting

• stitch: featherstitch $

• Stitch width; programmed or to suit application or fabric

• Stitch length: programmed

• Stitch balance: programmed or to suit application

or fabric

• General purpose needle plate

• General purpose foot or special purpose foot

The art of joining two pieces of fabric with an open, iacy decorative stitch is calied fagoting.

You can create this attractive trimming with the featherstitch. Use it for decorative stretch seams in bathing suits or for joining together narrow strips of fabric to make an entire gar ment section.

• Turn under (and hem by hand slipstitching)

the raw edges of the fabric strips or seams to be joined. Press flat or you may zig-zag

raw edges.

• Baste two fabric edges to be joined onto tissue paper leaving approximately 1/8inch (3mm) gap between the two edges. Stitch, guiding two fabric edges under the center of presser foot. Allow the needle to alternately make a stitch in each fabric strip and two stitches in the center of the open ing. The tissue paper should be gently pulled off when fagoting is completed.

•

Patchwork Quilting

• stitch: featherstitch ^

• Stitch width: programmed or to suit application or fabric

• Stitch length: programmed

• Stitch balance: programmed or to suit application

or fabric

• General purpose needle plate

• General purpose foot or special purpose foot

Patchwork for quilts and wearing apparel, for merly put together with hand stitching, can be quickiy pieced and decorated at the same time by using the featherstitch. Joinings are both flexible and durable when this method is used.

Patchwork Quilting

Procedure:

• Cut a fabric underlay to size. Baste a light

layer of padding to underlay if a quilted effect is desired.

• Prepare patches, turning under 1/4-inch

(6mm) seam allowance. On non-woven fabric this step is not necessary.

• Baste patches to underlay in arrangement

desired, butting all edges.

• Stitch in iengthwise and crosswise rows, allowing stitches to straddle patches.

PARIS POINT STITCH

The Paris point stitch is a traditional pattern used for hemstitching, drawn-thread work, picot-like edges and applique. A touch of quiet elegance is added to table and bed linens when hems are finished with the Paris point stitch. It is most effective when used on firm, plain weave fabrics such as lawn or organdy and on fabrics from which threads can be drawn readily such as linen. There are many applications for the Paris point stitch. Examples have been provided which will help to stimulate your imagination.

Picot Edges

• Stitch: Paris point stitch I

• Stitch width; programmed or to suit application

• Stitch length: programmed

• Stitch balance: programmed or to suit applioation

• General purpose needle plate only

• Special purpose foot only

or fabric

A dainty and decorative picot-like edge can be made very simply in fine, sheer fabrics when you use the Paris point stitch. The fine

hemstitched finish produced by this stitch is particularly appropriate for edging ruffles because it eliminates bulk. Soft fabrics such

as chiffon and voile, can be given a picot edge

if they are supported by a crisp fabric under

lay while being stitched. Always make a test sample to determine the need for an underlay and the correctness of stitch width, stitch bal ance and thread tension.

• Use a winged needle Style 2040 and a fine mercerized cotton thread.

• Mark stitching line approximately 1/2-inch (1.2cm) in from raw edge of fabric.

• Stitch along marked line, placing fabric so that the edge to be finished is turned to the right.

•

• Trim fabric close to the right side of line of stitching as shown.

Paris Point Hemstitching

stitch: Paris point stitch | Stitch width: programmed or to suit application

Stitch length: programmed Stitch balance: programmed or to suit application

General purpose needle plate only

Special purpose foot only

or fabric

Paris point hemstitching is most effective when used on firm, plain weave fabrics such as lawn or organdy, or fabrics from which threads can be drawn readily, such as linen.

• Insert a winged needle Style 2040 and thread the machine with a fine mercerized cotton, silk, or synthetic sewing thread.

1. Turn edge of fabric over twice to make hem

of desired width. Fold and press on length wise or crosswise thread of fabric. Baste in

place.

2. Draw out 2 to 4 threads just above top edge

of hem. The number of threads drawn will depend on the texture of the fabric and the depth of the open work desired.

3. Place work, right side up, under presser foot with the hem toward the left.

4. Lower the presser foot and stitch, guiding

the hem edge under the needle so that the straight stitches are made in the drawn-

thread channel or through the single thick

ness of fabric and the sideward stitches or points in the hem.

Fringed Edges

• Cut fabric carefully to correct size.

• Draw a thread for depth of fringe along each

side to mark position of stitching.

• Place fabric so that the edge to be fringed is

turned to the right.

• Stitch with matching or contrasting thread

along marked lines, pivoting on the needle at corners.

• Fray fabric threads between stitching and

fabric edges to form fringe.

: \r~/~/ .-'-v/\/./\/\/\ , ''/v/\/\/\'\'\/'./Vv '''^V\/VVy\J\iJ

OVEREDGE STRETCH STITCH

Although the overedge stretch stitch may be used creatively, it is primarily applied

in finishing seams, hems, and facing edges. Use it to overedge seams that require stretch such as crotch seams. It is particularly helpful in ski suit, snowsuit and swimsuit construction. Examples of how to use the overedge stretch stitch follow.

AAAAA/y\A/\AAAAAAAAAAAAAAA/VAAAAAAAAA/\/\AAAA/\A/\AA^

Method 1

Overedged Seams

• Stitch: overedge stretch stitch |

• Stitch width: programmed onlyt

• Stitch length: programmed

• Stitch balance: programmed or to suit application

• General purpose needle plate

• Overedge foot

or fabric

Stitching Seam

Method 1

Make a test sample to determine the suitability of an overedge seam finish for your garment. Duplicate the grain or direction of knit of your garment seam. Adjust thread ten sion to suit fabric. Use an appropriate Yellow Band needle in the machine for a synthetic knit. (See Fabric, Thread and Needle Table on page 14.

• Baste the garment together on the seam line allowing for 5/8-inch (1.5cm) seam allowance and fit in the usual way.

• After making any necessary adjustments, trim seam edge evenly to a scant 1/4-inch

(5mm) from seam line basting.

• Place trimmed seam under the foot so that the straight stitches fall on the basted seam

line and zig-zag stitches fall over the seam

edge.

tif a narrower stitch width is desired, as for seam finishing

of fine fabrics, use the general purpose foot in place of the overedge foot to prevent needle breakage.

Mock Overedge

This finish is appropriate for bulky knits, fine

tricots and fabrics that curl or fray.

Method 2

• Make a test sample.

• Baste the garment together on the seam line and fit in the usual way.

• After making any necessary adjustments, suggested in Method 1, place seam under presser foot. Stitch so that the stitches on the left side of the pattern penetrate the basted seam line.

• Press after stitching and trim away excess fabric to produce a narrow seam edge. When the seam supports the garment, omit the trimming step and press seam open in the usual way.

Method 2

Mock Overedging

Overedged Seam Finish

stitch: overedge stretch stitch | Stitch width: programmed onlyt Stitch iength: programmed Stitch baiance: programmed or to suit application

or fabric General purpose needle plate Overedge foot

* •

Trim seam edges evenly.

• Place stitching over the trimmed edge of the seam allowance as illustrated.

tif a narrower stitch width is desired, as for overedging

fine fabrics, use the general purpose foot in place of the overedge foot to prevent needle breakage.

Overedged Seam Finish

BLINDSTITCH

The blindstitch has many practical and functional uses. Its most common use pro vides a durable hem finish. The ladder seam, as described on the next page, is one creative application of the blindstitch. However, the creative ways one might apply this stitch are unending.

Blindstitch Hems

Blindstitching provides a durable hem finish that is almost invisible. It is best suited to straight or slightly curved hems. Programmed stitch width of the blindstitch is narrower than other stitch patterns in order to be more suita

ble for the application. Taped, bound, or turned hem edges can also be blindstitched with equal ease.

• Stitch: blindstitch

• Stitch width: programmed or to suit application

or fabric

• Stitch length: programmed or to suit application

or fabric

• General purpose needle plate

• General purpose foot

• Blindstitch hem guide

1. Raise presser foot, loosen screw, and slip blindstitch hem guide from the front be

tween screw and shank of foot. Make sure

underside of the guide clears the slide plate

and front of foot. Tighten screw with coin.

2. Prepare hem in the usual way. It is advisa ble to baste the hem. Place the basting at least 1/2-inch (1.3cm) below the edge of hem allowance to avoid catching the flange

of guide as you stitch.

3. With the wrong side of work uppermost,

turn the hem under, creating a soft fold from the top edge of hem.

4. Position hem under the foot with the soft

fold resting against the wall of guide. Make sure the flange of the guide is between soft fold and top of hem, as shown.

5. Lower presser foot. Stitchsothatthestraight stitches fall on the hem allowance and zig-zag stitches pierce the soft fold of work. Adjust stitch width if necessary. While stitching, guide hem edge in a straight line and feed soft fold evenly against wall of the guide.

Ladder Seam

The blindstitch ladder seam is particularly ap

propriate for knit and stretch fabrics. It is ideal for stretchable construction seams, and edge finishes for necklines, pockets and collars in sportswear and swimsuits.

• Stitch: blindstitch i

• Stitch width: programmed or to suit application or fabric

• Stitch length: programmed or to suit application

or fabric

• General purpose needle plate

• General purpose foot or special purpose foot

* •

• Make a test sample to adjust stitch width

and length and needle thread tension to suit the fabric. Needle thread tension should be lighter than normal.

• Cut and fit garment, allowing for 5/8-inch

(1.5cm) seam allowance. Baste seam line.

• Place fabric under presser foot so that the

straight stitches fall on the seam line bast ing and the points toward the center of the garment.

• After stitching, open seam by pulling fabric back on opposite sides of the seam to pro duce ladder effect. Press seam allowance after opening.

Blindstitching a Ladder Seam

Ladder Effect on Finished Garment

SCALLOP STITCH

Scalloping adds interest to blouses, dresses, lingerie, and children’s clothes. Scallops will be perfect in form and evenly spaced when you use the scallop stitch. This stitch is formed with one straight stitch between each scallop to prevent pucker between scallops on a seam. The decorative uses of this stitch are numerous. Use your imagination to create new uses for this stitch.

Notch

Scalloping Edges

• Stitch: scallop)

• Stitch width: programmed or to suit application or fabric

• Stitch length: programmed or to suit application

or fabric

• General purpose needle plate

Wrong Side of Scalloped Edge

• Special purpose foot

Scalloped Edge on Finished Garment

• Place right sides of fabric together. Shaped

or bias edges should be interfaced. Stitch scallops.

• After stitching, trim seam allowance to 1 /8-

inch (3mm) or less.

• Clip points down to flat stitch of scallops

with scissors and, if necessary to make points lie flat, notch curves.

•

• Turn to the right side and gently push

scallops out. Press flat.

¡-\r V

ELASTIC STRETCH (or “M”) STITCH

The elastic stretch stitch or “M” stitch is an attractive stitch which may effectively be used in functional and decorative stitching. It is an indispensable stitch for stretch garment repair and may be used for plain and overedged seams in knit and stretch fabrics. The “M” stitch lends itself to many creative uses.

Stretch Garment Repair

• stitch: “M” stitch |

• Stitch width: programmed or to suit application or fabric

• Stitch length: programmed or to suit application

or fabric

• General purpose needle plate

• General purpose foot or special purpose foot

Seams in stretch garments retain their elasticity when stitched with the “M” stitch. This stitch pattern builds stretch into the seam as it is being sewn and is equally suita ble when used to topstitch as shown, or to overedge. Make a test sample to check stitch width and length settings.

Lace Insertion

Fine lace insertion and edging add a feminine touch to blouses, dresses and children’s wear. Such trimming can be made decorative and durable when applied with the “M” stitch.

• Mark position of lace and baste in position.

• Stitch, guiding work under needle so that

the top of the stitches fall along the edge of the lace as illustrated.

• Trim fabric away under iace insertion after

stitching both edges.

Repairing Stretch Garment

with Elastic Stretch Topstitching

Lace Insertion

MULTI-STITCH ZIG-ZAG

The multi-stitch zig-zag is an extremely versatile stitch. Use it to mend, join, or rein force without bulk. With this stitch you may attach elastic and stretch lace, con struct lingerie and swimsuits, and finish seams. There are many other useful ap plications for the multi-stitch zig-zag.

Mending a Tear

• stitch: multi-stitch zig-zag <;

• Stitch width: programmed or to suit application or fabric

• Stitch length: programmed or to suit application or fabric

• General purpose needle plate

• General purpose foot or special purpose foot

• Trim ragged edges.

• Place underlay on the wrong side of tear for reinforcement. Do not baste or pin the un derlay, since you will be bringing the edges together in the next step.

Tear Mended with Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag

Applying Facing Finish

• Stitch on the right side, bringing the edges of the tear together. Shorten stitch length at ends and corners to give extra strength.

• Trim underlay.

Finishes for Hems and Facings

Hem and facing edges in knit and stretch fabrics will be less apt to press through and mark when given a flat edge-finish. Edge

finishing with the multi-stitch zig-zag elimi

nates the bulk of turned-in edges and retains

fabric flexibility.

• Make a test sample to check thread tension and stitch length if you are using the multi stitch zig-zag.

• Place stitching about 1 /2-inch (1.3cm) from hem or facing edge. Avoid stretching edge while sewing.

•

• Press after stitching and trim away excess fabric close to the stitching line.

Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag Bar Tacks

With the multi-stitch zig-zag you can make

strong bar tacks. Multi-stitch zig-zag bar tacks are effective for tacking belt loops on heavy fabrics such as denim. Be sure to check the Fabric, Thread and NeedleTable on page 14 for correct thread and needle selec tion with your choice of fabric.

• Stitch: multi-stitch zig-zag <;

• Stitch width: programmed or to suit application or fabric

• Stitch length: digitally fine tuned at 0

• Feed cover plate

• General purpose foot or special purpose foot

We recommend making a test sample first

using scraps of the material you will be sew ing the bar tacks on, duplicating all

thicknesses.

•

Belt Loop Finish Line

1. Mark position for the finished end of belt loop on the fabric.

• Place belt loop, wrong side up, straight stitch with cut end 1/8-inch (3mm) from edge of garment; do not stitch beyond edges of the belt loop. Trim the end close to the stitching and press.

2. Fold belt loop back on the stitching line

and press.

• Program your machine according to the code above.

• Stitch 1/8-inch (3mm) from the fold using

the multi-stitch zig-zag.

3. Fold over loose end and bar tack.

MAXI-TOPSTITCH

The maxi-topstitch is an invaluable stitch pattern. It is especially effective in pro ducing bold topstitching to enhance sporty garments \A/ith that professionally tailored look.

Maxi-Topstitching

Stitch: maxi-topstitch ¡|| Stitch length; programmed Stitch balance: programmed or to suit application

or fabric

General purpose needle plate Special purpose foot

Maxi-Topstitching

Note: The Even Feed foot can not be used

with the maxi-topstitch.

Make a test sample first to determine the best pressure and tension settings for your fabric. To be sure that you are using the correct nee dle and thread combination for your fabric, see the Fabric, Thread and Needle Table on page 14.

Adjusting Reverse Stitches

For good appearance, forward and reverse stitches that make up the maxi-topstitch should be balanced. Refer to Chapter 3 Electronic Sewing, page 30 for information on adjusting stitch balance.

Procedure

• Draw needle and bobbin threads under foot to back of machine. Hold thread ends and by turning the hand wheel toward you, posi tion needle in fabric.

• Lower presser foot and start machine, hold ing thread ends at back of foot as first few

stitches are made.

Incorrect Correct Incorrect

Adjusting Reverse Stitch Baiance

• Guide fabric lightly, letting the machine make the back-and-forth stitches that form

the maxi-topstitch.

When stitching across folds and seam join

ings, hold the fabric taut in front and back of

the presser foot, as shown, to assist feeding.

This type of support is essential for thick, soft

fabrics.

CAUTION: Do not pull fabric while you apply

gentle or firm tension, as this may deflect nee

dle, causing it to break.

Supporting Fabric while

Topstitching over a Seam

HONEYCOMB STITCH

The honeycomb stitch is ideal for smocking and it is useful for mending, overcasting and attaching lingerie elastic, stretch lace and blanket binding. Use this versatile stitch to create decorative designs on fabrics that stretch.

Replacing Lingerie Elastic

• Stitch: honeycomb stitch I

y;г/^••i7тn•, , >1. i,. M7 r

MpTr'crp; 1 ri\ ;

-r y -> ) rr - ,j n - r rr r - i- <

■ , 'M nrf<v.-|T

■riTrTrfn]7i^'

-'* *'11' > t 1 /"T' 1 inT'-T-TTj

''r/ '■ ! rù f C r n rr-rTr''nT-nrrr, :

f?jTnTiVTi>v^.<T7Ty-f i I'-iir/Tr-p i*—T“f'VriTi

/--TiVT pTrn/T’T

• Stitch width: programmed or to suit application or fabric

• Stitch length: programmed

• Stitch balance: programmed or to suit application

or fabric

Joining Eiastic

• General purpose needle plate

• General purpose foot or special purpose foot

• Fit elastic for desired snugness at waistline, allowing 1 inch (2.5cm) for joining. Lap ends to form a band and straight stitch together as shown using a ball point needle.

• Divide elastic band into four equal segments

and mark with pins. Do the same to the gar ment. Then pin together at corresponding points, pinning elastic over right side of fabric, top edges even.

• Sew a few straight stitches to anchor elastic

to fabric.

• Select honeycomb. Plain zig-zag, elastic stretch stitch, multi-stitch zig-zag, or featherstitch are also effective for replacing lingerie elastic.

• Then hold elastic and garment edge taut as

you stitch so that it will remain stretchable after stitching is completed.

CAUTION: Do not pull the fabric while you are stitching as this may deflect the needle, caus ing it to break.

BLANKET BINDING STITCH

The blanket binding stitch is an exciting new stitch on your machine. This stitch, traditionally a hand embroidery stitch, can be used to decorate the edges of your fabric. Use it to replace old bindings on your favorite blankets. The blanket binding

stitch is particularly suitable for this application because it combines utility with beauty.

Blanket Binding

• stitch: blanket binding stitch j

• Stitch width: programmed or to suit appiication

• Stitch iength: programmed

• Generai purpose needle plate

• Even Feed foot

or fabric

•

We recommend the use of the Even Feed foot for this application. It insures smooth feeding and prevents fabric slippage.

• Make a sample first to determine the correct stitch width setting, if programmed stitch is not suitable. Reduce pressure on pressure

dial if necessary, so that the blanket feeds freely. See Chapter 3 Electronic Sewing,

page 31 for instructions on adjusting stitch

width.

• Remove worn binding and hand baste new binding securely in place.

Stitch and remove basting.

Blanket Binding

ARROWHEAD STITCH

The arrowhead stitch provides a decorative and secure finish on fashion seams or darts that end on the outside of a garment, at the top of pleats, and at the ends of

pockets in tailored clothes. Individual pattern units reinforce points of strain. Use the arrowhead stitch on pocket corners in place of bar tacks or in a border design for an effective decorative touch.

Arrowhead Stitch Finish

• stitch: arrowhead stitch

• Stitch width; programmed or to suit application or fabric

Decorative and Secure

• Stitch length; programmed or to suit application

• General purpose needle plate

• Special purpose foot

or fabric

Pocket Finish

• Touch

arrowhead stitch.

• Touch © to turn on pattern repeat. Use of the pattern repeat symbol will stop needle penetration after one pattern unit has been completed.

• Sew. Pattern repeat must be touched each time a single arrowhead is desired.

To create effective border designs, as il

lustrated, stitch arrowheads from the middle of each side and work out in both directions toward the corners.

Decorative Border

on Napkin

TURKISH HEMSTITCH

Although the Turkish hemstitch may be used creativeiy in appliqu^ work or in join

ing patchwork, it is traditionaily used for hemstitching. A rich, tasteful appearance is added to table and bed linens when hems are finished with Turkish hemstitching. This type of hemstitching is best utiiized when used on firm, plainweave fabrics such as linen or organdy.

Turkish Hemstitching

For effective drawn-thread work use the Turkish hemstitch on fabrics from which threads can readiiy be drawn, such as linen. Try using 2X (two-times) with the Turkish hemstitch for a loveiy exaggerated effect.

• Stitch: Turkish hemstitch |

• Stitch width: programmed or to suit application

• Stitch length: programmed

• Stitch balance: programmed or to suit application

• General purpose needle plate only

• Special purpose foot only

• Speed range: SLOW

or fabric

• Insert a winged needle Style 2040 to create large penetrations desirable in hemstitch ing. Use a fine cotton or siik thread.

• Foid a double hem of desired width on

iengthwise or crosswise thread of fabric.

Baste in place.

• Mark or baste a guideline on right side of

fabric just above top edge of hem.

• Piace work, right side up, under presser foot

with hem turned to the ieft.

• Lower presser foot and stitch, guiding hem edge under needle so that stitches on right side of hemstitching are made over hem edge (in single thickness of fabric) and stitches on left side penetrate thickness of hem.

Turning a Corner

Hems in household linens are usualiy mitered at the corners, but they may also be turned in with a doubie overlap and stitched from edge to edge.

Mitered corners shouid be pivoted on needie at

inside point of the miter. To pivot, ieave needle in fabric at corner.

Note: Slow speed setting is recommended for sewing with the Turkish Hemstitch

ZIG-ZAG BLINDSTITCH

The most common use of the zig-zag blindstitch is for hemming stretch fabrics. This

stitch provides a flexible and durable hem finish. The zig-zag blindstitch is also an effective stitch in border designs.

Zig-Zag Blindstitch Hems

Zig-zag blindstitching provides a flexible and durable hem finish that is almost invisible. It is best suited to straight or slightly curved hems on stretch fabrics. Programmed stitch width of the zig-zag blindstitch is narrower than other stitch patterns in order to be more suitable for the application.

• Stitch: zig-zag blindstitch

• Stitch width: programmed or to suit application or fabric

• Stitch iength: programmed or to suit appiication

or fabric

• Generai purpose needie piate

• Generai purpose foot

• Blindstitch hem guide

1. Raise presser foot, loosen screw, and slip blindstitch hem guide from the front be

tween screw and shank of foot. Be sure the

underside of guide clears slide plate and

front of the foot. Tighten screw with coin.

2. Prepare hem in the usual way. Baste the hem. Place the basting at least 1/2-inch (1.3cm) below edge of hem allowance to

avoid catching flange of the guide as you stitch.

3. With the wrong side of the work uppermost,

turn the hem under, creating a soft fold from the top edge of the hem.

4. Position hem under the foot with the soft fold resting against the wall of guide. Make sure the flange of the guide is between soft

fold and top of hem, as shown.

5. Lower foot, stitch so that narrow zig-zag stitches fall on hem allowance and wider

zig-zag stitches pierce the soft fold. Adjust

stitch width if necessary. While stitching, guide the hem edge in a straight line and feed the soft fold evenly against wall of guide.

CURVED MENDING STITCH

The curved mending stitch is an effective stitch for mending fabrics which stretch. The curved stitch lends itself to extra give on points of strain. Use it to mend, join, or

reinforce without bulk. With this stitch you may also finish seams. Use your

creativity to find new applications for the curved mending stitch.

Curved Mending

The curved mending stitch forms a firm, flexi

ble bond that is ideal for repairing tears.

• Stitch: curved mending stitch >

• Stitch width: programmed or to suit application or fabric

• Stitch length: programmed or to suit application

or fabric

• General purpose needle plate

• General purpose foot or special purpose foot

* •

• Trim ragged edges.

• Place underlay on the wrong side of tear for

reinforcement. Do not baste or pin the un derlay, since you will be bringing the edges together in the next step.

• Stitch on the right side, bringing the edges

of the tear together.

• Trim underlay.

Tear Mended with

Curved Mending Stitch

DRESSWEIGHT TAILOR TACK STITCH

The dressweight tailor tack stitch is an exciting new time-saving feature on your machine. Tailor tacks are traditionally hand sewn. They are used for transferring pattern markings onto fabric. Save valuable sewing time by transferring pattern markings onto your dressweight fabrics by machine. A delicate fringe may also be added to napkins or linen placemats with this stitch. Examples of how to use the dressweight tailor tack stitch follow.

Machine Tailor Tacking

• stitch: dressweight tailor tack stitch ^

• Stitch width; programmed

only

• Stitch length: programmed or to suit application or fabric

• General purpose needle plate

• Dressweight tailor tack foot

• Pressure: ^ (darn)

• Tension setting:

Note: Wind bobbins and raise bobbin thread

before attaching tailor tack foot to machine.

Tailor tacks are used for transferring pattern

markings, such as large and small dots or

stitching iines, on two iayers of fabric.

• Pin pattern pieces to fabric as the pattern prescribes. It is very important when laying pattern onto fabric, that pins are placed at right angles to seam line on pattern.

• Follow pattern directions to cut out fabric.

• After pattern has been pinned on fabric and

cut out, use the tailor tack stitch to sew along stitching line marked on the pattern

piece. Sew, pulling pins out as you stitch.

We do not recommend sewing over pins.

• Remove paper pattern by carefully cutting

top thread loops and thread between tailor

tacks. Gently lift paper from fabric. To sepa rate tacks on two layers of fabric, carefully separate fabric layers and cut threads.

To obtain a tack in a specific place on pattern, set stitch length on 0 and stitch several times

in the same area. Use 2X (two-times) when more space is desired between tailor tacks. Use Digital Fine Tuning when stitching around

curves to decrease space between tacks.

Imitation Fringe

• stitch: dressweight tailor tack stitch * *

• Stitch width: programmed only *

• Stitch length: digitally fine tuned at 0

• General purpose needle plate

• Dressweight tailor tack foot

• Pressure: NORM.

• Tension setting: 0

A delicate fringe may be added to tabie scarves, linen placemats or napkins using the dressweight tailor tack stitch on your

machine. To add this delightful decorative touch, follow one of the procedures below, sewing first on two layers of scrap fabric.

• When cutting fabric for placemats, be sure

to leave an extra 5/8-inch (1.5cm) allowance around edges.

• Place the lengthwise edge of two layers of

fabric on the 5/8-inch (1.5cm) guideline of the general purpose needle plate. Sew the two layers of fabric together using the dressweight tailor tack stitch. Pivot work on needle at corners. Ease stitches off top of foot when pivoting work at corners.

• Remove tailor tack foot and attach straight

stitch fittings. Set tension dial for straight stitching.

• Fold fabric under so that tailor tack loops

extend beyond the edge of the fabric. Baste along seam edge to hold fold in place.

• Sew a line of short straight stitching close to

the fringed edge.

Loops may be cut or left rounded depending

on desired effect.

decorative stitching

Your sewing machine has several stitches which are purely decorative. These versatile stitches allow you to add imagination and creativity to your sewing projects. With these decorative stitches, you can apply to clothes and household items: interesting details, youthful and feminine accents, and personalized effects. Some of the many applications of the decorative stitches include border designs, applique's, twin-needle stitching, finished hems, smocking, embroidering, monograms and topstitching accent lines on clothes. The following pages illus

trate decorative stitches on your machine and provide examples for their creative use.

BORDER DESIGNS

Border designs that add a decorative touch to

wearing apparel and household items can be

created by combining different types of

-----

------------

-—7^;---—

/ \ / \ / \ / V /

A-

/\ /\ Z'' /\

/ \ / \ / \ / \

\/ \/ \/ \/ \

.V._____

___

_______;__

----------------------------

____________

■7<r-

.V.

______

straight stitching and zig-zag stitching. Sim

ple or elaborate, delicate or bold, they can be varied to suit the application. Use them as you would a braid or to simulate horizontal, verti cal or bias stripes on plain fabric.

Procedure

V- - —

V :/ . \ / \ : / \

\ / : \ / ^ ^

/\ : /

/ : X / : X/ X / \ /:

z__.

______

____________

--------------------

-7^-----------

----

---------

7^-

N / /^\

---------

____________

^v.__

Marking a Border Design

-----------

______

Mark or crease fabric for the center line of first row of stitching. If spacing between rows

is not greater than 1/2-inch (1.3cm), gauge

additional rows with the presser foot. If spac

ing is wider, mark for each line of stitching.

Use a backing of crisp lawn, organdy or a fusi

ble interfacing. Be sure to make a test sample on a swatch of your fabric to check stitch set tings and thread tension, being sure to dupli cate thickness and interfacing or backing if appropriate.

MONOGRAMS

Many decorative stitch patterns can be used

for monograms and motifs — to add a per

sonal touch to jacket yokes, for example, or for initialing household linens. You can buy designs or create them yourself to suit the stitch pattern you wish to use.

Very simple straight line monograms can be

made with the plain zig-zag stitch, or you can

create a motif by arranging individual pattern

units to form a design. Refer to Chapter 3

Electronic Sewing, page 33 for detailed infor

mation on the pattern repeat symbol.

When you use a decorative stitch pattern to form a motif, your machine will automatically be programmed to start at the beginning of the arrowhead, heart, or whatever pattern you have selected.

Initial in Piain Zig-Zag and icicle Stitch

Initial in Piain Zig-Zag and Arrowhead Stitch

Line Initial in Plain Zig-Zag Stitch

TOPSTITCHING

A practical, simple way to accent the lines of a dress or coat is to place one or more rows of stitching along collars, lapels, facing edges, hems, pockets, seams, etc. For interest, use a decorative stitch. The Even Feed foot will help you place stitching evenly and accurately. To keep stitching at an even distance from the

fabric edge, use the seam guide.

Two-thread Straight Topstitching

Bold, well-defined topstitching is produced by using two strands of thread in the needle in

stead of a single strand. Ideal for summer

knits, linens, cottons, denims, and vinyls, twothread topstitching is particularly appropriate for use when a nonlustrous, washable finish is required.

Two-thread Topstitching

• Select size 16 Style 2020 needle for woven

fabric and use size 16 Style 2045 Yellow Band needle for knits. Refer to Fabric, Thread and Needle Table on page 14.

• Select straight stitching.

• Clip detachable spool pin to thread

guidepost.

• Using the two threads, thread the machine

in the regular way following suggestions below for single needle stitching. For best results, use size 50 mercerized cotton

thread or cotton-wrapped polyester thread.

Pass threads together into tension discs and threading points above the needle.

Cut thread ends diagonally and draw both through the eye of the needle.

• Make a stitching test to determine the best

stitch length and needle thread tension. A

long stitch is usually best.

•

• Sew at moderate speed.

SMOCKING

Smocking is a youthful decorative detail that is particularly charming when used for a yoke, insert or band on baby clothes, little girls’

dresses, or lingerie. When worked by hand, smocking is a time-

consuming process. However, the heavystitched look, typical of hand work, can be ac complished quickly and easily with your

machine when you use decorative patterns.

Procedure:

A test sample is always advisable to check stitch settings. Be sure to use the same fabric and degree of fullness you plan for garment.

• Set tension diai between 0 and 1.

• Space rows of straight stitching with stitch iength on 9 (maximum length), 1/4-inch (6mm) apart, on the crosswise fabric grain.

Gathering Stitches for

Smocked Band

•

• Pull up evenly, gathering for the amount of

fullness desired. Secure thread ends by tying knots close to the fabric to prevent gathers from pulling out of position.

• Baste section to be smocked to underlay.

• Stitch over and between rows of gathering

with decorative stitching. Create your own design or adapt the ones illustrated. Use thread that contrasts with or matches your fabric, depending on the effect desired.

TWIN-NEEDLE STITCHING

The twin-needle simultaneously produces two parallel, closely spaced lines of decora tive stitching. You can stitch with either one or two colors of thread.

• stitch: stitch desired

• Stitch length: programmed or to suit application or fabric

• Stitch width: programmed or to suit application

or fabric

• General purpose foot or special purpose foot

• General purpose needle plate

___________________

Tension Separator

CAUTION: Always activate the twin-needle symbol before doing twin-needle sewing. Twinneedle reduces stitch width to suit the double needle. Unless this symbol is activated, needle breakage will result. Your machine has a special safety feature to avoid accidental ac

tivation, there is a longer delay (3/4 second)

than any other symbol. Upon completion of your

twin-needle sewing, touch the twin-needle sym bol again and wait for the beep which iets you know it has been disengaged.

Step 1. Thread machine with first thread

in usual manner, making certain it passes into tension disc on

right of tension separator.

•

• Since a bobbin cannot be filled after a twin-needle is inserted, it is wise to keep an extra wound bobbin on hand for replacement.

Step 2. Unthread needle and remove It

from machine.

• Insert twin-needle.

• Pass first thread through right eye of needle.

SINGER 2001 User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual

TOUCH manie вап!

principal parts and what they do

accessories

Chapter 2. Getting Ready to Sew

choosing and changing accessories

To Remove Foot

Attaching One-piece Feet

Attaching the Even Feed Foot

CHANGING NEEDLE PLATES

choosing needles and threads

Changing the Needle

operating machine

CONNECTING MACHINE

threading the machine

PREPARATION

Step 7

the bobbin

LOW BOBBIN INDICATOR

CHANGING THE BOBBIN

Removing the Bobbin

Replacing an Empty Bobbin

Removing Thread from Bobbin

Replacing a Wound Bobbin

Raising the Bobbin Thread

Chapter 3. Electronic Sewing

selecting a stitch

DIGITAL FINE TUNING

stitch adjustments

USING STITCH LENGTH WITH STRAIGHT STITCH

STITCH BALANCE

STITCH WIDTH

individual preferences

REVERSE STITCHING

PATTERN REPEAT SYMBOL

Procedure

TWIN-NEEDLE SYMBOL

Chapter 4. Straight Stitching

preparation

NEEDLE THREAD TENSION

Tension Test

fabric handling

PIN BASTING

SPEED BASTING

Procedure

Stitch Length

Thread Tension

sewing a seam

PREPARATION

PLACE FABRIC UNDER FOOT

KEEPING SEAMS STRAIGHT

TURNING SQUARE CORNERS

CURVED SEAMS

REINFORCING END OF SEAM

applications

DARNING

With Accessoriest

DARNING

Without Accessories

HESITATION EMBROIDERY

QUILTING

Preparing the Fabric

Basic Procedure

CHAINSTITCHING

Preparation

Adjusting Tension

Starting and Chaining Off

Releasing the Chain from the Machine

Removing Chainstitching from Fabric

Removing the Chainstitch Accessories

Chapter 5. Basic Zig-Zag Stitching

ZiG-ZAG STiTCHING

Procedure

Changing Stitch Length & Width

Adjusting Needle Thread Tension

LEFT NARROW ZIG-ZAG STITCHING

Procedure