Congratulations...
You are about to discover the wonderful pleas
ure of sewing with your new SINGER sewing
machine. We know you are eager to get started
on a sewing project... but we urge you to be
come familiar with this book before you begin.
It is designed to help you get the benefit of all
the capabilities of this machine. Especially, we
recommend that you keep the following points
in mind:
/
DO choose the correct needle and thread for
your fabric — if either is the wrong size or type,
you may encounter broken or knotted thread, or
faulty stitching. The Fabric, Thread and Needle
Table on page 9 Wift help you make a perfect
choice. - .
DON’T sew with a bent or blunt needle. If the
needle is damaged — or improperly inserted in
the machine — It can cause skipped stitches.
See page 8 for instructions.
DO folio# the instructions on page 16 for
threading the machine. Note particularly the
directions for threading the tension discs.
Form 21577 (572)
Printed in U.S.A.
Page 3
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....................
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DON’T forget to hold the bobbin properly
when you thread the bobbin case. Page 14 tells
you how to do this correctly.
DO become familiar with the instructions for
regulating stitch length (page 22), presser-foot
iislfe.
mim
'■mM
"■Ri
pressure (page 22), and thread tension (page
24). Take advantage of the capability of your
sewing machine!
DONT allow lint or thread ends to accumu
late in the lower thread area — they can cause
jamming or excessive noise. Clean and lubricate
machine regularly, as instructed on page 52.
DO remember that expert, dependable SINGER
Service is always available. If your sewing ma
chine should require maintenance or repair, be
sure to call your Singer Sewing Center or Au
thorized Singer Dealer. You will find the number
the right tension for your fabric, stitch, and
thread. The numbers eliminate guesswork
llttiiiiiiiKiiiSSiiiiiiWiSiMiSiSii
15 14 13
Page 7
4. Presser Foot holds fabric against feed.
Presser-foot lifter at rear of machine (not
shown] raises and lowers the presser foot.
6. Slide Plate opens easily, provides access
to bobbin case latch for removal and re
placement of the bobbin.
6. Feed moves fabric under the presser foot.
7. Needle Plate provides working surface
around the needle. Guidelines on plate
help you keep seams straight.
8. Needle Clamp holds needle and is designed
to eliminate the possibility of inserting the
needle backwards.
9. Electric Motor supplies power to machine
through a belt to the hand wheel. Motor is
activated by a speed controller.
10. Bobbin-Winder Tension Discs regulate
thread tension for winding bobbins.
11. Stitch Length Selector allows you to
choose from a variety of stitch lengths, in
cluding fine adjustments for close zig-zag
stitching. Raising the lever permits reverse
stitching.
12. Bobbin Winder Spindle lets you wind the
bobbin quickly and easily.
13. Hand Wheel controls movement of take-up
lever and needle. Always turn it toward you.
14. Stitch Width Selector controls the width of
zig-zag stitching and positions the needle
for straight stitching.
15. Spool Pin and Felt. Pin holds thread spools
of various sizes. Felt helps thread unwind
smoothly.
Page 8
2. Getting Ready to Sew
preliminary steps
CONNECTING MACHINE
Before plugging in your machine, be sure that
the electrical information on the motor bracket
conforms to your electrical power supply.
To connect the machine, insert the power-line
plug into your electrical outlet.
OPERATING MACHINE AND
CONTROLLER
The speed controller controls the speed of the
machine.
To run the machine, press the speed controller.
The harder you press, the faster the machine
will sew.
CAUTION: IVe recommend that you unplug
your machine from the electrical outlet before
changing needles, removing presser foot or
needle plate and when leaving the machine un
attended. This eliminates the possibility of start
ing the machine by accidentally pressing the
speed controller.
Page 9
Page 10
choosing needle
and thread
The needle and thread you choose will depend
upon the fabric being stitched. The table on the
following page is a practical guide to thread and
needle selection. Refer to it before starting a
sewing project. Be sure to use the same size
thread in both the needle and bobbin.
CHANGING THE NEEDLE
The needle clamp has been designed so that
the needle can only be inserted with the flat
side of the shank toward the left.
1. Raise needle bar to its highest position,
loosen needle-clamp screw, and remove
needle.
2. Insert new needle in clamp, with flat side to
the left, and push it up as far as it will go.
tUse with 50 mercerized cotton or "A" silk in bobbin.
iiiffiiilSIttilSSiBisliliSifiSW
50 mercerized cotton
iliiiiiliilllliiiiiliM
A. Synthetic thread ;
i; Polyester core/cotton
iiiiliiiiiiiiiliiSiiiiM
mercerized potton
lllif iiilliiiiiiliil
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2020 . . . 11 ■
(15x1)
Style -
Page 12
threading the machine
THE BOBBIN THREAD
Winding the Bobbin
Removing bobbin case
1. Raise the presser foot and turn hand wheel
toward you until needle is at its highest
position.
2. Open the slide plate.
3. Reach down with your left hand and open
the bobbin case latch.
4. Withdraw bobbin case from machine.
5. Release the latch and bobbin will drop from
bobbin case.
Latch
Bobbin
Case
Bobbin
Removing Bobbin Case
10
Page 13
Winding steps
1. Hold hand wheel with left hand and loosen
hand wheel knob by turning it toward you.
2. Place spool of thread on spool pin over the
felt. Pass thread from spool through thread
guide, between bobbin-winder tension discs
and through hole in bobbin {from inside
out).
11
Page 14
Winding steps (continued)
3. Place bobbin on spindle and slide bobbin
and spindle to the right.
4. Hold thread end and start the machine.
(Thread end will break off after a few coils
have been wound.)
5. When bobbin is slightly less than full, stop
the machine and slide bobbin and spindle
to the left. Cut thread about four inches from
the bobbin and remove bobbin from spindle.
6. Hold the hand wheel from turning and tighten
hand wheel knob.
The bobbin-winding tension has been pre-set
at the factory and should need no adjusting.
However, if adjustment is required, loosen the
screw that holds the bobbin-winder tension
bracket to the machine and slide the bracket
forward if bobbin winds high to the rear; slide
bracket back if bobbin winds high to the front.
12
Page 15
Bracket
Screw
Bobbin-Winding Tension Discs
13
Page 16
Threading bobbin case
1. Hold the bobbin so that the thread will
unwind in the direction shown.
2. Place bobbin into the bobbin case.
3. Pull thread into notch, under the tension
spring and into the slot at the end of the
tension spring. Allow about three or four
inches of thread to hang from the bobbin
case.
Replacing bobbin case
1. Raise needle to its highest position.
2. Hold bobbin case by latch and place it on the
stud of the shuttle allowing position finger
to enter notch at top of shuttle body.
3. Release latch and press bobbin case in until
it clicks into place. Then close slide plate.
14
Page 17
Bobbin
Case
Threading Bobbin Case
.Bobbin
Notch ./■
Tension.'
Spring
Beplacihg Bobbin Case
15
Page 18
THE NEEDLE THREAD
1. Turn hand wheel toward you to raise needle
to its highest position.
2. Raise the presser foot.
3. Place spool of thread on the spool pin over
the spool pin felt.
4. Lead thread from spool through upper
thread guide, down around and between
tension discs, over tension thread guide,
under spring and up through eyelet in takeup lever.
5. Continue to lead thread through all other
threading points shown.
6. Thread the needle from right to left drawing
about four inches of thread through eye of
needle.
16
Page 19
Threading the Needle
Thread Needle
. From. Right to Left
17
Page 20
RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD
Now that you have wound the bobbin and
threaded the needle, you will need to raise the
bobbin thread through the hole in the needle
plate.
1. Hold needle thread lightly with left hand and
turn hand wheel slowly toward you so that
needle enters needle plate.
2. Continue turning hand wheel and holding
needle thread until needle rises and brings
up bobbin thread in a loop.
3. Undo the loop with your fingers.
4. Place both needle and bobbin threads under
the presser foot, and draw them diagonally
to the back of the machine.
Page 21
step 4
19
Page 22
3. straight Stitching
preparation
Before moving the stitch width selector, make
sure the needle is above the needle plate.
SETTING THE MACHINE
1. Press down on stitch width selector lever
and slide lever to right until groove in lever
is directly under the straight-stitch symbol
(setting 0).
For your convenience, the position numbers
0,1,2,3,4 will be used throughout this book
when the instructions require stitch width
settings.
2. Set stitch length selector for desired stitch
length. (See page 22 for instructions.)
starting to sew
1. Place needle and bobbin threads under
presser foot and draw them diagonally to
the back of machine.
2. Position the needle in the fabric where de
sired for stitching start.
3. Lowerthe presser foot and start the machine.
To sew perfectly on a wide variety of fabrics
adjust stitch length, pressure and thread ten
sion as instructed on following pages.
20
Page 23
Starting to Sew
21
Page 24
adjusting selectors
for your fabric
SETTING STITCH LENGTH
The stitch length selector regulates the length
of both straight and zig-zag stitches. The num
bers at the right and left of the lever represent
the number of stitches per inch: the higher the
number, the shorter the stitch. Generally,
shorter stitches are best for lightweight fabric;
longer ones for heavy fabric.
Setting Selector
1. Loosen thumb nut by turning to left
2. Position lever for desired stitch length.
3. Tighten thumb nut by turning to right.
For reverse stitching, simply raise the selector
lever as far as it will go. Do not loosen thumb
nut to reverse.
REGULATING PRESSURE
The pressure screw regulates the pressure that
the presser foot exerts on the fabric. Correct
pressure is important to ensure smooth and
even feeding of the fabric. Generally, heavy
fabric requires heavy pressure; lightweight
fabric, light pressure. But fabric texture must
also be considered. Soft fabrics, for example,
require less pressure than crisp fabrics.
Lower the presser foot before setting pressure.
• To decrease pressure, turn screw upward
(counterclockwise).
• To increase pressure, turn screw downward
(clockwise).
22
Page 25
Loosen
Setting Stitch Length
20 ;Tighten
Regulating Pressure
To Reverse
: Stitching :,
To Decrease To Increase
23
Page 26
REGULATING THREAD TENSION
Correct tension is important because too much
or too little will weaken your seams or cause
the fabric to pucker. Make a test sample with
the fabric and thread you plan to use. A perfect
stitch will have the needle and bobbin threads
locked between the two layers of fabric with
no loops on top or bottom and no puckers.
Needle-Thread Tension
The tension dial regulates the degree of tension
on your needle thread. Set it according to the
type of thread and fabric you use. The numbers
on the dial eliminate guesswork in duplicating
settings.
If the stitches in your sample look loose,
increase needle-thread tension. If the fabric
puckers, decrease tension.
• To increase tension, turn dial to a higher
number.
• To decrease tension, turn dial to a lower
number.
Bobbin-Thread Tension
Bobbin-thread tension is controlled by a screw
located on the bobbin case. You will seldom
need to adjust it since it is usually possible to
obtain the correct balance by adjusting needle-
thread tension alone.
Should it become necessary to adjust bobbinthread tension, use the small screwdriver that
comes with your machine. A very slight turn will
produce a noticeable change in bobbin-thread
tension.
• To increase tension, turn screw clockwise.
• To decrease tension, turn screw counter
clockwise.
24
Page 27
isleedle-Thread Tension
i ! \
i /
‘ /
To Increase
To Decrease
Bobbin-Thread Tension
25
Page 28
sewing a seam
PIN BASTING
Pin basting is a time-saver and can be used in
place of hand basting when you are straight
stitching seams in easy-to-handle fabric.
Use fine pins and place them so that:
• They are at right angles to the presser foot
and just nip into the fabric at the stitching
line.
• They do not extend under both sides of the
presser foot. Never place pins on the under
side of the fabric in contact with the feed.
STARTING A SEAM
1. With presser foot raised, turn hand wheel
toward you to position the needle in fabric
about 1/2 inch from starting edge. Lower
the presser foot.
2. Set stitch length selector for desired number
of stitches per inch.
3. Raise stitch length selector to reverse and
backstitch to edge of fabric for reinforce
ment.
4. Lower stitch length selector for forward
stitching and stitch.
26
Page 29
stitching a Seaitt
27
Page 30
Keeping Seams Straight
KEEPING SEAMS STRAIGHT
To keep the seam straight, use one of the num
bered guidelines on the needle plate. The
numbers indicate distance, in eighths of an
inch, from the needle. If you want a 5/8-inch
seam, for example, line up your fabric with the
number 5 guideline.
GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC
Most fabrics need only to be guided in front
of the presser foot as shown. Some fabrics,
however, require support while being stitched:
• For filmy sheers, knits, tricots, etc., apply
gentle tension by holding fabric in front and
back of the presser foot.
• For stretch fabrics, apply firm tension front
and back when stitching in the same direc
tion as the stretch. For seams not on the
stretch direction, stitch in the conventional
manner, guiding fabric in front of the presser
foot.
28
Page 31
Supporting Fabric
29
Page 32
REINFORCING END OF SEAM
1. Stitch to the edge of the fabric.
2. Raise stitch length selector as far as it will
go and backstitch to reinforce end of seam.
Then lower stitch length selector for forward
stitching.
3. Raise needle to its highest position, raise
the presser foot, and remove the fabric by
drawing it to the back and left.
4. Cut threads on thread cutter at rear of
presser bar.
CURVED SEAMS
When sewing armhole and neckline seams, you
usually will be sewing on a curve. To do this,
follow the same procedure as for sewing a
straight seam except:
• Use a short stitch length for elasticity and
strength. For example, if you use 12 stitches
to the inch for straight seams, select 15 to 20
per inch for curved seams in the same fabric.
30
Page 33
Ending la Seam
Reinforcing End of Seam
Cutting Threads , :
Sewing a Curved Seam
31
Page 34
4. Zig-Zag Stitching
You will find the zig-zag stitch that is built into
your machine ideal for many of your sewing
applications. To use this stitch, simply follow
the instructions below and on following pages.
adjusting selectors
ADJUSTING STITCH WIDTH
Before moving selector, make sure the needle
is above fabric.
To produce a zig-zag pattern, depress and slide
stitch width selector lever to any zig-zag set
ting between I (narrow-position 1) and ^(wide-
position 4).
For your convenience, the position numbers 0,
1,2,3,4 will be used throughout this book when
instructions require stitch width settings.
ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH
For open zig-zag stitching, choose any stitch
length from 6 to 30, depending on how open
you wish the stitching to be. If you wish a
closely spaced zig-zag stitch:
1. Move stitch length selector to 30.
2. Run the machine at slow speed and gradu
ally tighten thumb nut by turning it clockwise,
until stitches are closely spaced and form
a smooth surface.
NOTE: For best results in producing a smooth,
satiny surface, use the special-purpose foot
which is available at your local Singer Sewing
Center (see page 62).
32
Page 35
4 3 2 1 0
Hi
Adjusting $titc h Length
As Selector is Raised,
Stitches Close Up
33
Page 36
adjusting needle-thread
tension
Zig-zag stitching requires less needle-thread
tension than straight stitching; and closed zig
zag stitching requires even less tension than
open zig-zag stitching. Furthermore, the wider
the stitch, the lighter the tension on the thread
must be. Thus, stitch width 4 requires the least
tension; narrower stitching requires more.
Make a test sample with the fabric and thread
you plan to use and notice the stitching. If the
stitching looks too taut, or if the fabric is pucker
ing, lower the needle-thread tension by turning
the tension dial to a lower number.
adjusting presser-foot
pressure
Turn to page 22 under “Straight^ Stitching” for
instructions on adjusting pressure.
34
Page 37
Increase
Decrease
Too Tight
Correct
Adjusting Needle^Thread Tension
35
Page 38
5. Sewing the Professional Way
construction details
LINGERIE SEAMS
• Stitch Width: 2 to 3
• Stitch length; 15 to 20, depending on fabric
To make seams in lingerie both durable and
flexible, use the zig-zag stitch. This treatment
is particularly suitable for bias seams.
1. Straight-stitch the seam (with stitch width at
0) on wrong side of fabric.
2. Press both seam allowances in the same
direction.
3. Set stitch width at 2 or 3 and, from the right
side, top stitch with zig-zag stitching, letting
the needle alternately enter the seam line
and seam thickness.
SEAMS IN KNIT FABRICS
• Stitch Width: 1 to 2
• Stitch Length; About 20
The zig-zag stitch is ideal for seaming knit
fabrics. It is particularly desirable for underarm
seams where elasticity and give are needed.
For neckline and waistline seams, where a stay
is needed to prevent undue stretching, this
same stitch can be used to apply seam tape.
For a flat, smooth finish:
1. If seam is curved, pre-shape tape to fit by
steam pressing.
2. Baste tape in place.
3. Stitch, allowing needle to alternatively enter
the seam tape and seam allowance.
36
Page 39
Page 40
FLAT-FELLED SEAMS
• Stitch Width: 2
• Stitch Length: 15 to 20, depending on fabric
Zig-zag stitching gives strength and durability
to flat-felled seams.
1. Stitch the seam on the right side of the
fabric, taking full seam allowance.
2. Press seam allowance to one side, keeping
the right side of the stitch on top.
3. Trim the under-seam allowance to one-half
its width.
4. Turn the upper-seam allowance edge evenly
over the trimmed edge and top stitch.
SEAM FINISHES
• Stitch Width: 3 or 4
• Stitch Length: 8 to 20, depending on fabric
Seam edges support the garment and should
be given a durable finish if the fabric is likely
to ravel.
1. Adjust stitch width and stitch length settings
to suit the fabric. Choose the settings that
will give you the most “open” stitch that will
secure the fabric edges; avoid harsh, over
stitched edges.
2. Trim seam edges evenly.
3. Place stitching near the edge of the seam
allowance or over the raw edge as illustrated.
4. If stitching is placed near the edge of the
seam allowance, trim away excess fabric
after stitching.
38
Page 41
Page 42
DARTS
Darts can be made in the usual way on your
sewing machine. That is, you begin stitching at
the wide end of the dart, stitch to the point, and
then fasten the two thread ends.
Regular Darts
• stitch Width: 0
• Stitch Length: About 12 or to suit fabric
1. Stitch from the seam edge, tapering gradu
ally to the point.
2. Stitch beyond the fabric to form a thread
chain 1/2 to 3/4 inch long.
3. Tie the thread ends into a single knot close
to the stitching.
Darts in Interfacing
• stitch Width: 4
• stitch Length: About 20 or to suit fabric
With zig-zag stitching, darts in interfacings can
be shaped without bulk.
1. Cut out the dart allowance on the stitching
line.
2. Bring raw edges together and pin or baste
over a muslin stay.
3. Stitch, backstitching at both ends.
40
Page 43
Regular Dart
apragna
II iJIiII
41
Page 44
BUTTONHOLES
• Stitch Width: 2 and 4
• Stitch Length: Above 30
Make a test buttonhole on a sample of your
fabric so you can adjust stitch length to produce
a closely spaced, freely-feeding zig-zag stitch.
Be sure to duplicate the thickness of the gar
ment and include interfacing if appropriate.
NOTE: For best results, use the special purpose
foot which is available at your local Singer
Sewing Center (see page 62).
Stitch Width Settings
You will use two stitch width settings: for side
stitching, stitch width 2, and for bar tacks (clos
ings at ends of buttonhole), stitch width 4.
Buttonhole Length
The length of the buttonhole depends on the
diameter and thickness of the button. To find
the correct length:
1. Cut a small slit in a scrap of fabric and
gradually enlarge it until the button slips
through easily.
2. Add approximately 1/8 inch at each end for
bar tacks, and mark the fabric as shown.
This bar-tack measurement is approximate; on
some buttonholes, you may need to increase it
or decrease it to arrive at pleasing proportions.
42
Page 45
Side: Stitching
Stitch Vyidth iSettings
Marking Lines
Length of
Cutting Space
Bar Tacks and
Side Stitching
43
Page 46
Buttonholes (Continued)
Procedure
Place work under the presser foot, aligning
center marking of buttonhole with the needle.
Side stitching
Set stitch width selector at 2. Position the
needle in the fabric at point A. Lower the pres
ser foot and stitch down left side to end of
buttonhole marking, stopping at point B. Leave
needle in fabric. Raise presser foot and pivot
work on needle. Lower the foot and take one
stitch at same stitch width setting bringing
needle to point C. Leave needle in fabric.
Bar tack
With needle in fabric, raise presser foot and set
stitch width selector at 4. Lower presser foot
and take approximately 6 stitches ending at
point D. Leave needle in fabric.
44
Page 47
iSislEiiSiiiÄ
Side Stitching
Bar Tack
45
Page 48
Buttonholes (Continued)
Side stitching
With needle in fabric, raise presser foot and
reset stitch width selector to 2. Lower presser
foot and stitch, stopping at point E. Leave
needle in fabric.
Final bar tack
With needle in fabric, raise presser foot and set
stitch width selector at 4. Lower presser foot
and take approximately 6 stitches ending at
point F. Leave needle in fabric.
Fastening stitch
With needle in fabric, raise presser foot and
set stitch width selector at 0. Lower the presser
foot and take approximately 3 stitches.
Remove work, draw threads to underside,
fasten and trim. Cut opening for button with
sharp scissors.
46
Page 49
Side Stitching
Final Bar Tack
Fastening Stitch
47
Page 50
keeping up appearances
MENDING
The zig-zag stitch is just as useful for mending
as it is for creative sewing. It forms a firm,
flexible bond for repairing tears, replacing
elastic and for making bar tacks to repair lin
gerie and to reinforce points of strain.
Mending a Tear
• stitch Width: 2 to 4
• Stitch Length: About 20
1. Trim ragged edges.
2. Place underlay on the wrong side of tear for
reinforcement. (It is best not to baste or pin
the underlay, since you will be bringing the
edges together in the next step.)
3. Stitch on the right side, bringing the edges
of the tear together. Shorten stitch length
at ends and corners to give extra strength.
Trim underlay.
48
Page 51
Replacing Elastic
When replacing elastic, use the same settings
as for “Mending a Tear.”
1. Fit elastic for desired snugness at waistline,
allowing one inch for joining. Lap the ends
and join with zig-zag stitching.
2. Divide elastic band and garment waistline
into quarters. Lap elastic over fabric and pin
the two together at these intervals. Place
pins at right angles to stitching line.
3. Take a few stitches to anchor elastic to
fabric, then hold the elastic taut as you stitch
so that it will remain stretchable after stitch
ing is completed.
Bar Tacks
Bar tacks, to repair lingerie and attach belt
loops, are made with the zig-zag stitch at a
closed stitch length.
Bar-Tacked Beit Loops
49
Page 52
BLANKET BINDING
Often you can make an old blanket look almost
new by replacing the binding.
• Stitch Width: 4
• Stitch Length: 15 to 20
1. Remove worn binding and baste new binding
in place.
2. Reduce pressure on fabric by turning pres
sure thumb screw counterclockwise and
increase stitch length, if necessary, so that
blanket feeds freely.
3. Stitch, and remove basting.
DARNING
Worn or torn spots on children’s clothes and
household linens can be darned effortlessly
and quickly with little practice.
• Stitch Width: 0
• Stitch Length: 10 to 15
• Pressure: Very light
1. If area to be darned is open, baste an under
lay in place.
2. Place area to be darned under presser foot;
lower presser foot and start stitching, al
ternately drawing fabric toward you and
pulling it gently away from you.
3. Continue this back and forth motion until
you fill the area with parallel lines of stitch
ing. For additional strength, cover area with
crosswise lines of stitching.
50
Page 53
Blanket Binding
barning
51
Page 54
6. Caring for Your Machine
cleaning and lubricating
Your machine will serve you perfectly for many
years if you keep it clean and lubricated. How
often you will need to clean and lubricate the
machine will depend on how often you use it.
CAUTION: Before cleaning and lubricating the
machine, disconnect the power-line plug from
electrical supply.
EVERY WEEK OR SO...
Remove lint or fluff from exposed parts. With
a soft cloth, clean:
• Tension discs, presser bar and needle bar
• Take-up lever and thread guides
• Bobbin case, needle plate and slide plate
• Machine surface (If necessary, dampen the
cloth and use a mild soap)
Remove needle plate by removing screws
fastening it to machine bed and remove shuttle
as instructed on page 54.
Using a brush, clean:
• Feed
• Shuttle area
After cleaning, apply a drop of SINGER* oil at
points indicated on pages 55, 56, and 57.
52
Page 55
Clean Between
tension Discs ;
53
■ Briisti
Page 56
Removing and Replacing Shuttle
1. Raise take-up lever to its highest position.
2. Open slide plate, remove needle plate (see
page 52), and remove bobbin case.
3. Push latch down, swing shuttle gate open,
and remove shuttle from raceway.
4. Clean shuttle and raceway. Apply a drop of
oil to raceway.
5. Replace shuttle in raceway and close and
lock gate. Replace bobbin case and needle
plate; close slide plate.
Shuttle
Gate
Shuttle
Bobbin
Case
54
Page 57
Cleaning and Lubricating
Behind Face Plate
1. Remove the two screws from the face plate.
2. Using a brush, clean out lint and fluff which
may have accumulated. Apply one drop of
oil to all points indicated.
3. Replace face plate and sew a few lines of
stitching on a scrap of material to remove
excess oil.
Page 58
EVERY FEW WEEKS...
Lubricate Top and Bottom of Machine
• Remove two screws from top cover and lift
cover from machine.
• Apply a drop of oil to points indicated (three
drops to points indicated by t).
• Apply a small amount of SINGER* gear
lubricant to gears. Never apply oil to
gears.
• Replace top cover.
Lubricating Top of Machine
56
Page 59
Oilt
Oil
Oil
Oi
Oi!
Lubricating Bottom of Machine
• Tilt machine back and apply a drop of oil to
ail points indicated.
IF MACHINE IS TO BE STORED
Before storing, thoroughly clean the machine
to remove all traces of lint and fluff. Then swab
all exposed metal parts and parts behind the
face plate with a brush saturated with SINGER
oil to protect against rust.
57
Page 60
adjusting
motor belt tension
Tension on the motor belt should be just suf
ficient to keep the belt from slipping. If the
motor belt needs adjustment:
• Loosen motor bracket screw a full turn.
• To increase belt tension, lower the motor
bracket.
• To decrease belt tension, raise the motor
bracket.
• Securely tighten motor bracket screw.
replacing the slide plate
You will not have any occasion to remove the
slide plate. If it should accidentally become
disengaged from the machine, it is easily re
placed.
• Align back edge of slide plate with front end
of slide way.
• Push slide plate back until retaining spring
snaps into place.
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removing machine
from cabinet
IMPORTANT:
• Do not attempt to remove hinges from cabinet
as this may result in damage to cabinet.
• Puil cabinet away from wall to avoid damage
to wall or machine.
• Remove power-line plug from electrical
supply.
TO REMOVE MACHINE FROM CABINET
1. Tilt machine back until it rests on hinges.
2. Loosen set screws that hold machine on
hinge pins by turning them counterclockwise.
3. Lift machine straight up and off pins. For
ease of removal, stand behind cabinet when
lifting machine.
TO REPLACE MACHINE IN CABINET
Reverse the procedure used for removal of
machine.
• Be sure set screws in machine are unscrewed
far enough to clear openings for hinge pins.
• To keep hinge pins pointing up, slip an elastic
rubber band around both pins, making sure
the elastic band is over the shoulder of each
hinge as illustrated.
• Be sure set screws are firmly tightened
against hinge pins before lowering machine
into cabinet.
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iBasticBartd^'
Replacing Machine in Cabinet
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7. FASHION Aids
Fashion Aids increase the versatility of your
sewing machine. The ones described below are
just a few of the selection available at your
local Singer Sewing Center.
SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT-No. 161455
This light, flexible foot is designed for zig-zag
satin stitching, buttonholing and applique. The
raised center section allows very closely spaced
zig-zag stitches to feed smoothly and evenly.
The small eyelets at the front of the foot hold