SINGER 17
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USE ONLY SINGER OILS and LUBRICANTS
They insure freedom from lubricating trouble and give longer life to sewing equipment
"Singer Oil for High Speed Sewing Machines"
(Cloth and Leather) For all manufacturing sewing machines except where a stainless oil is desired
"Singer Stainless Oil for High Speed Sewing Machines"
desired.
"Singer Motor Oil"
For oil-lubricated motors, power tables, transmitters and machinery in general.
"Singer Stainless Thread Lubricant"
For lubricating the needle thread of sewing machines for stitching fabrics or leather where a stainless thread lubricant is required.
NOTE: All of the above oils are available in 1 quart, 2 quart, 1 gullon and 5 gallon cans or in 55 gallon drums, and can also be supplied in customer's containers.
"Singer Gear Lubricant"
This specially prepared grease is recommended for gear lubrication on manufacturing sewing machines.
"Singer Ball Bearing Lubricant"
This pure grease is specially designed for the lubrication of ball bearings and ball thrust bearings of motors and electric transmitters, ball bearing hangers of power tables, etc.
NOTE: The above greases are furnished in 1/4 lb. tubes and 1 lb. and 4 lb. tins.
Copyright, U. S. A., 1914, 1924, 1927 and 1935 by The Singer Manufacturing Company All Rights Reserved for all Countries
INSTRUCTIONS
FOR USING
SINGER SEWING MACHINES
OF
CLASS 17
EXCEPT MACHINES 17-22, 17-23, 17-25, 17-31 AND 17-32
CYLINDER BED OSCILLATING LONG BEAK SHUTTLE
The Singer Manufacturing Co.
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To all whom it may concern:
The placing or renewal of the name "Singer" (Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.) or any of the trade marks of The Singer Manufacturing Company on any machine that has been repaired, rebuilt, reconditioned, or altered in any way whatsoever outside a Singer factory or an authorized Singer agency is forbidden.
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING GENUINE SINGER PARTS AND NEEDLES IN SINGER MACHINES
The successful operation of Singer machines can only be assured if genuine Singer parts and needles are used. Supplies are available at all Singer Shops for the Manufacturing Trade and mail orders will receive prompt attention.
Genuine Singer Needles should be used in Singer Machines. These Needles and their Containers are marked with the Company's Trade Mark "SIMANCO." 1
Needles in Containers marked "For Singer Machines" are not Singer made needles.
DESCRIPTION
Machines of Class 17, described in this book, have a long beak shuttle and a cylinder bed and are successfully used in the manufacture of shoes and a large variety of articles made of leather, which are irregularly shaped, such as horse boots, saddles, suit cases, fine leather bags, portfolios, pocket books, music rolls, trusses, etc., all of which are conveniently handled on the cylinder bed.
Machine 17-1 is intended for stitching the quarter over the vamp of shoes, and is also used for stitching leather waist belts, music rolls, footballs, etc. It has a drop feed across the cylinder at the left of the needle. It is also fitted with a roller presser.
Machine 17-2 is used for shoe work, also for closing the seams of filled shot bags, sewing buckram on jean pants, etc. It has a drop feed across the cylinder at the right of the needle. It is also fitted with a roller presser.
Machine 17-5 is adapted for stitching felt shoes, horse boots, musical instrument cases, gun cases, etc., the cylinder being reduced in diameter for a short distance immediately at the right of the throat plate, to facilitate the stitching of irregularly shaped articles which would be difficult to stitch on any other machine. The stitching mechanism is located at the extreme outer end of the cylinder bed, and this enables operators to stitch close to the edge of the work. Work having a cup-shaped surface is easily handled. This machine has a drop feed across the cylinder on both sides of the needle.
Machine 17-7 has two needles and two shuttles and is intended for two-line stitching in irregularly shaped articles made of cloth or leather. This machine has a drop feed across the cylinder. The distance between the two needles may be from 3/3 to 3/4 inch. Following is a list of the gauges and the numbers of the shuttles which must be used for the various gauges:
| GAUGES | SHUTTLE NOS. |
|---|---|
| 4 inch to 3 inch | 3226 and 4648 |
| at inch to z inch | 3226 and 3229 |
| 3 inch to 15 inch | 3381 and 3229 |
| 14 inch | 3226 and 4729 |
| 14 inch to 12 inch | 3226 and 3521 |
| 5 inch to 3; inch | 3381 and 3521 |
Machine 17-8 is intended for general work in cloth or leather where the combined advantages of a cylinder bed, feed across the cylinder and alternating pressers are required. It is useful for stitching a wide range of articles of tubular or other shapes, and is adapted for binding sandals, slippers, shoe tongues, etc., the binders being furnished, on order, at an additional charge. A sample of the binding and material to be bound should accompany orders for binders.
Machine 17-11 is intended for use in the manufacture of leather mittens, razor strops, music rolls and various other leather articles where it desired to stitch and trim the edge of the leather at one operation. The adjustable vertical edge trimmer can be readily adjusted to trim the work from 5/12s to 3/2 inch from the line of stitching, in steps of 1/2s inch. It has a drop feed across the evlinder and is fitted with a roller presser.
Machine 17-12 is designed for stitching horse boots, musical instrument cases, gun cases, trusses, etc. This machine has no under feed, the movement of the material being effected by a special device used in place of the ordinary presser foot, which acts on the top surface of the work and sets up the stitch, giving the work a superior linish. The upper feed moves the work across the cylinder, and the machine can be furnished with presser feed points for either 1, 1/2, 1/3, 1/3, 1/4, or 1/2 inch "set" stitch as desired. Unless otherwise ordered, the machine will be sent out with presser feed point for 1/2 inch "set" stitch.
Machine 17-15 is particularly adapted for use in the manufacture of portfolios, pocketbooks and other leather articles which cannot be conveniently stitched on a flat bed machine. It has a drop feed across the cylinder and is fitted with a roller presser.
Machine 17-16 is the same as Machine 17-15 with the exception that it has reversible feeding mechanism which makes it possible to feed the work forward or backward as desired, enabling operators to tack the ends of seams, etc.
Machine 17-17 is especially designed for making caps. The cylinder is extended 15 k inches to the left of the needle. This machine has a drop feed across the cylinder.
Machine 17-19 is largely used for stitching leather sweat bands into straw hats. It is also adapted for stitching values, suit cases, etc., and similar articles where it is necessary to sew close to a shoulder or in corners, as the needle operates only 3/32 inch from the outerend of the cylinder. It has a drop feed across the cylinder at the right of the needle, and is fitted with a roller presser.
Machine 17-24 is especially adapted for use in the manufacture of fine leather bags, bicycle saddles, bicycle tool cases, footballs, leather hat cases, leather mittens, trusses, suit cases, etc. This machine has no under feed, the movement of the material being effected by a special device used in place of the ordinary presser foot, which acts on the top surface of the work and sets up the stitch, giving the work a superior finish. The upper feed moves the work across the cylinder, and the machine can be furnished with presser feed points for either 1/1, 1/5, 1/50 or 1/12 inch "set" stitch as desired. Unless otherwise ordered, the machine will be sent out with presser feed point for 1/8 inch "set" stitch.
5
Machine 17-30 has a reversible drop feed across the cylinder and is fitted with a special throat plate and a narrow presser foot which particularly adapt it for stitching end pieces or gussets into leather hand bags, pocketbooks, etc.
Machine 17-32 is equipped with a disc balance wheel and a counterbalanced arm rotary shaft. It is designed for stitching edges and undertrimming linings of pumps, eyelet ties, blucher oxford shoes, etc., and other leather articles at one operation. The machine is fitted with a horizontal under-trimming attachment which automatically trims the lining from under the edge of the shoe upper while it is being stitched, the blade of the trimming knile being set at an angle so that none of the lining is visible underneath after trimming. The machine has a drop feed across the cylinder and is fitted with a roller presser.
Speed
The following list gives the maximum speed recommended for the individual Machines of Class 17:
| MACHINE | STITCHES PER MINUTE |
|---|---|
| 17-1 | 1200 |
| 17-2 | 1200 |
| 17-5 | 800 |
| 17-7 | 1200 |
| 17-8 | 1200 |
| 17-11 | 1200 |
| 17-12 | 800 |
| 17-15 | 1200 |
| 17-16 | 1200 |
| 17-17 | 1200 |
| 17-19 | 1000 |
| 17-21 | 800 |
| 17-30 | 1200 |
| 17-32 | 1800 |
These machines should be run slower than the maximum speed until the parts which are in movable contact have become glazed by their action upon each other. When the machines are in operation, the balance wheel should always turn over toward the operator.
To Oil the Machine
When the machine is received from the factory, it should be thoroughly cleaned and oiled. Apply oil to all oil holes and all parts which are in movable contact. When the machine is in continuous use, it should be oiled at least twice each day.
There are oil holes in the arm as follows: Seven in the upper surface, three of them near the arm head, three near the spool pin and one near the balance wheel, one in back of arm head for oiling the take-up hinge and its cam and roller. There is a hole in the face plate through which the ends of the needle bar link can be oiled, but it is advisable to take off the face plate occasionally and to
clean out the space inside and oil the parts with fresh oil. The round cover on the back of the arm should be turned up and parts
There is an oil hole near the left hand end of the cylinder bed for oiling the bearings of the oscillating shuttle shaft, and three large openings in the base through which to oil the bearings of
Apply a drop of oil to the shuttle bearing in the shuttle race each time a bobbin is replaced.
Needles
Needles for Machines of Class 17 are of the following Class
| MACHINES |
CLASS AND VARIETY NOS.
OF NEEDLES |
MACHINES |
CLASS AND VARIETY NOS,
OF NEEDLES |
|---|---|---|---|
| 17-1 | 16 x 2 | 17-15 | 16 x 1 or 16 x 2 |
| 17-2 | 16 x 2 | 17-16 | 16 x 1 or 16 x 2 |
| 17-5 | 16 x 64 | 17-17 | 16 x 1 or 16 x 2 |
| 17-7 | 16 x 1 or 16 x 2 | 17-19 | 16 x 1 or 16 x 2 |
| 16 x 21 or 16 x 22 | 17-24 | 16 x 64 | |
| 17-8 | 17-8 16 x 1 or 16 x 2 | 16 x 2 | |
| 17-11 | 16 x 2 or 16 x 22 | 17-32 | 16 x 46 |
| 17-12 | 16 x 64 | ||
Description of Needles
|
CLASS AND VARIETY NOS.
OF NEEDLES |
STYLE OF
POINT |
SIZES |
|---|---|---|
| 16 x 1 | Cloth |
7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17, 18,
19, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25 |
| 16 x 2 | Leather |
7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17,
18, 19, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25 |
| 16 x 21 | Cloth | 19, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25 |
| 16 x 22 | Leather | 19, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25 |
| 16 x 46 | Leather |
9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17, 48, 19,
21, 22, 23, 24 |
| 16 x 64 | Leather |
9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 21,
22, 23, 24, 25 |
The size of the needle to be used should be determined by the size of the thread which must pass freely through the eye of the
needle. If rough or uneven thread is used, the successful operation of the machine will be interfered with.
Orders for needles must specify the quantity required, the size number, also the class and variety numbers separated by an x. The following is an example of an intelligible order:
"100 No. 14, 16 x 2 Needles" (if for leather.)
"100 No. 14, 16 x 2 Needles" (if for cloth.)
The best results will be obtained in using the needles furnished by the Singer Sewing Machine Company.
Relative Sizes of Needles and Thread
| ROUND POINT NEEDLES, FOR CLOTH |
WEDGE AND TWIST POINT NEEDLES
FOR LEATHER WORK |
|---|---|
| 11 | 9 |
| 14 | 11A and B Sill |
| 16 | 14C and D Sill |
| 18 | 16 |
| 19 | 18 |
| 21 | 19 |
| 22 24 to 40 Linen | 21 |
Thread
Left twist thread should be used in the needle. Either right or left twist can be used in the bobbin.
FIG. 2. How to Determine the Twist
Hold the thread as shown above. Turn the thread over toward you between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand; if left twist, the strands will wind tighter; if right twist, the strands will unwind.
To Remove the Bobbin
Slightly raise the back edge of the cap at the end of the cylinder bed so that it can be slipped over the head of the screw, then let
FIG. 3. BOBBIN REMOVED FROM MACHINE
the cap hang by the hinge screw, as shown in Fig. 3. Turn the balance wheel over toward you until the needle bar is at its lowest point. Pull out the hinged portion of the shuttle and remove the bobbin.
To Wind the Bobbin
Place the spool of thread on the spool pin and wind the end of the thread around the bobbin a few times. Then place the bobbin
FIG. 4. WINDING THE BOBBIN
on the bobbin winder spindle and push the bobbin winder up until its rubber ring presses against the rim of the balance wheel. Raise the roller presser or presser foot and run the machine the same as when sewing, at the same time guiding the thread with the finger as shown in Fig. 4, so as to wind the thread evenly on the bobbin. When sufficient thread has been wound upon the bobbin, push the bobbin winder away from the balance wheel.
10
To Wind the Bobbin on Machine 17-32
Attach the bobbin winder to the table in front of the machine driving belt so that the pulley will engage the belt when the bobbins are to be wound.
Fig. 5. Winding the Bobbin
The bracket (D) with the spool pin and tension discs should be attached to the rear side of the table so that the tension discs (C) are in line with the bobbin when the bobbin is pushed as far as it will go onto its spindle on the bobbin winder.
The above illustration shows the complete bobbin winder properly attached to the table in connection with Machine 17-32.
Push the bobbin as far as it will go onto the bobbin winder spindle. Place the spool of thread on the spool pin and pass the thread through the guide (E), then back, up and between the tension discs (C), and forward to the bobbin. Wind the end of the thread around the bobbin a few times. Push the bobbin winder pulley (A) against the machine driving belt by lifting up and pushing the latch (B) against the bobbin until the pulley is held in place against the belt. Operate the machine and when the bobbin is fully wound the pulley will be automatically disengaged from the machine driving belt, thus stopping the winding of the bobbin.
11
To Replace the Bobbin and Thread the Shuttle
With the needle at its lowest point, open the shuttle cap, hold the bobbin in the right hand, the thread drawing on the bottom
FIG. 6. BOBBIN REPLACED AND SHUTTLE THREADED
from the left toward the right and place the bobbin in the shuttle cap, then close the cap. Draw the thread into the slot in the edge of the cap and into the delivery eye, as shown in Fig. 6. Allow about three inches of thread to hang free from the shuttle.
To Set the Needle
Turn the balance wheel over toward you until the needle bar moves up to its highest point. Loosen the screw in the needle clamp and put the needle up into the clamp as far as it will go, with the long groove toward the left and the eye of the needle directly in line with the cylinder bed, then securely tighten the needle clamp screw.
On Machine 17-7, in gauges from 1/32 inch to 15/64 inch, set the left needle with its long groove toward the right and the right hand needle with its long groove toward the left.
In gauges from 1/4 inch to 3/4 inch, set the long groove of each needle toward the left.
14
To Regulate the Tensions
The tension on the needle thread is regulated by the thumb nut at the front of the tension discs at the front of the face plate. To increase the tension, turn this thumb nut over toward you. To decrease the tension, turn this thumb nut over from you.
The tension on the bobbin thread is regulated by the screw near the delivery eye on the outside of the shuttle. To increase the tension, turn this screw over toward you. To decrease the tension, turn this screw over from you.
When the tension on the bobbin thread has been once properly adjusted, it is seldom necessary to change it as a correct stitch can usually be obtained by varying the tension on the needle thread.
To Regulate the Length of Stitch
(Except on Machines 17-16 and 17-30)
The length of stitch is regulated by the thumb screw in the slot on the front of the upright part of the arm. To lengthen the stitch, loosen this thumb screw and move it downwardly. To shorten the stitch, loosen the thumb screw and move it upwardly. When the desired length of stitch is obtained, tighten the thumb screw.
To Regulate the Pressure on the Material
The pressure on the material is regulated by the thumb screw on the top of the machine. To increase the pressure, turn this thumb screw over to the right. To decrease the pressure, turn the thumb screw over to the left. The pressure should be only heavy enough to enable the feed to move the work along evenly.
15
To Engage and Disengage the Trimmer on Machine 17-32
To engage the trimmer, swing the lever (E) to the right and raise its end so that the pin (D) can enter the slot in the lever as shown in Fig. 11.
Fig. 11. Adjustments on Trimmer
To disengage the trimmer, raise the end of the lever (E) and swing it toward the left until the trimmer is locked out of action by the spring (B).
To Adjust the Trimmer on Machine 17-32
(See Fig. 11)
The knife (A) should be adjusted so that its cutting edge bears lightly against the side of the throat plate. The sidewise adjustment of the knife is obtained by loosening the two screws (C) and moving the knife to the right or left, as may be required, after which securely tighten the two screws (C).
10
To Reverse the Direction of Feed in Machines 17-16 and 17-30
Machines 17-16 and 17-30 can be adjusted to feed the work forward or backward, as desired, by loosening the thumb screw
FIG. 12. MACHINE 17-30
(H, Fig. 12) and moving the lever (G, Fig. 12) up or down in the bracket at the front of the machine.
To feed the work away from you, raise the lever (G) to its highest point. To feed the work toward you, move the lever (G) down to its lowest point. When the lever is set in the desired position, securely tighten the thumb screw (H).
To Regulate the Length of Stitch on Machines 17-16 and 17-30
Loosen the thumb screw (F, Fig. 12) in the slotted lever (G, Fig. 12) and move it forward or backward until the desired length of stitch is obtained, then securely tighten the thumb screw (F).
Genuine Singer Needles should be used in Singer Machines. These Needles and their Containers are marked with the Company's Trade Mark "SIMANCO." 1
Needles in Containers marked "For Singer Machines" are not Singer made needles.
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