SIGLENT NITRO RASCAL Assembly Manual

NITRO RASCAL ARF ASSEMBLY MANUAL
INTRODUCTION:
Congratulations on the purchase of your SIG Nitro Rascal ARF kit! This model continues the great line of ARF Rascal kits, with their great looks and superb flight characteristics. The Nitro Rascal makes an almost perfect aircraft for those modelers looking for a maximum amount of 1/2A performance out of a great looking airplane. The Nitro Rascal ARF can be easily flown in smaller fields but is equally at home on normal club-size flying sites. The Nitro Rascal ARF was specifically designed to take full advantage of the great power and reliability of the Norvel .049, .061, or .074 glow engines.
Performance? You bet! The SIG Nitro Rascal ARF is a very capable airplane. It has a wide speed envelope from very quick at full throttle to a virtual "crawl" at low throttle. It is fully capable of a wide range of 3-channel aerobatics including beautiful rudder rolls, spins, inverted flight, snap rolls, touch and goes, etc. And the included 2-ounce fuel tank will allow you to enjoy 15 - 20 minute flights, depending upon fuel management. The kit also includes a great tail wheel assembly that provides excellent ground handling.
Like it's electric powered cousin, the Nitro Rascal is beautifully built from balsawood and ply and expertly covered in premium Oracover
®
polyester film, using the signature "Rascal" two-color trim scheme. This also means that the covering on the Nitro Rascal ARF is easily repairable and easy to work with. Assembly is straight forward if you follow these instructions carefully. Deviating from these instructions has the potential to cause problems later in the assembly process or during flight. The successful assembly and flying of this model is your responsibility, so take your time and enjoy the process.
NITR
O RASCAL ARF SPECIFICATIONS:
Wing Span: 49" Wing Area: 324 sq. in. Length: 32.5" Flying Weight: 18 - 20 oz. Wing Loading: 8.0 - 8.8 oz./sq.ft. Engines: .061 - .074 Radio Requirements: 3 Channels - 1 Micro Receiver
& 3 Micro Servos Required
RADIO EQUIPMENT:
The Nitro Rascal ARF derives its performance from several factors. Two of these are its light ready to fly weight and generous wing area. This combination makes for a very favorable wing loading, allowing the airplane to perform very well with the recommended Norvel engines. Since the Nitro Rascal ARF is factory built, you can only control the final ready to fly weight by choosing the most appropriate airborne radio equipment. In short, the performance of this model will be great with the right equipment but will be less so by choosing overweight or inappropriate radio equipment. This is a simple reality that has to be addressed. Fortunately, after-market receivers and servos, appropriate for this model, are not only readily available and are of good quality, they're now very reasonably priced.
In flight-testing our Nitro Rascal models, we've used a wide v ariety of airborne radio equipment. For servos we have used and can highly recommend Hitec
#HS-55 servos and the MAXX MX-50 servos. Similar servos are also available and can be used in the Nitro Rascal, provided they are of the same size, weight and po wer output. For receivers, we have used and can highly recommend the Hitec
Electron 6 or the 555 Micro Receivers, as well as the FMA M5 Micro Receiver. Again, other receivers may be useable but make sure they are small enough and light enough. For best performance, always avoid excess weight. DO NOT use single conversion receivers for this aircraft. Such receivers are more prone to interference and should NOT be used.
To power the airborne radio system, we used either a 270 or 300 mAh Ni-Cad battery pack. Properly charged, this pack provides an honest 45 - 60 minutes of safe flying. These results can v ary so be sure to cycle your battery pack to determine the safe amount of operating time for your particular system.
ENGINE SELECTION:
The Nitro Rascal ARF model was specifically designed around the Norvel
®
AME .061 R/C engine. This engine provides a lot of power
1
R
and is perfect for a model of this size. The motor mount can be easily enlarged a little to accommodate the Norvel
®
.074 BigMig R/C engine and this will be covered in this Assembly Manual. NOTE: Using engines any larger in displacement than the Norvel
®
.074 is totally unnecessary and is not recommended.
COVERING MATERIAL:
®
. This material is world famous f or its ease of application, light weight, and consistency of color. If you live in a dry climate, you may notice that some wrinkles might develop after removing the covered parts from their plastic bags. This is perfectly normal in low humidity climates. The model was covered in a part of the world with relatively high humidity and therefore the balsawood was carrying a fair amount of moisture. When exposed to drier air, the wood typically loses this moisture, dimensionally "shrinking" in the process. This is what may cause some wrinkles. However, wrinkles are easy to correct by simply using a heat iron.
We suggest covering the shoe of the iron with thin cotton cloth, such as an old T-shirt, to prevent scratching. The iron should be set to about 280
O
- 300OF. Use the heated iron over the wrinkle to lightly shrink the material - do not press on it. Then lightly iron the covering back down to the wood. You can also use a hobby-type heat gun to re-shrink the covering but you must be ver y careful around seams or joints. Re-heating seams may cause them to "creep", making them unsightly. You must also be careful when using a heat iron or heat gun when working around the side windows and windshield - excess heat will distort these plastic parts.
An easy way to avoid over-heating seams, joints, and the windows when re-shrinking the covering is to protect them with wet paper towels. Soak the paper towels in cold tap water and roll them in strips for joints and seams. For windows and windshields, just shape the wet towel as needed. The coolness of the wet towels protects whatever is beneath them from heat.
For reference, your Nitro Rascal ARF was covered in Oracover
®
film with the following part numbers:
#10 White and #21-29 Transparent Red or #21-59 Transparent Blue
REQUIRED TOOLS:
For proper assembly, we suggest you have the following tools and materials available:
A Selection of Glues - SIG Thin and Thick CA
and SIG Kwik-Set 5-Minute Epoxy
Threadlock Compound, Such as Loctite
®
Non-Permanent Blue
Screwdriver Assortment
Pliers - Needle Nose and Flat Nose
Diagonal Wire Cutters
Small Power Drill With Selection of Bits
Pin Vise for Small Dia.Drill Bits
Hobby Knife With Sharp #11 Blades
Scissors
Heat Iron and Trim Seal Tool
Masking T ape
Paper Towels
KIT CONTENTS: Perform a complete inventory bef
ore starting
assembly.
Pre-Built P
arts:
1 each Fuselage, Covered1 each Fuselage Battery and Fuel Tank Access Hatch, Covered1 each Fuselage Landing Gear Spreader, Covered1 set Horizontal Stabilizer & Elevator Set, Covered
(With 4 CA Hinges in Place, Unglued)
1set Vertical Fin & Rudder Set, Covered
(With 3 CA Hinges in Place, Unglued)
1 set Left & Right Wing Panels, Covered1 each Wing Center Section, Covered1 set Plastic Wheel Pants, 1 Left, 1 Right
Formed Wire P
arts:
1 each Main Landing Gear Wire - .09 dia.1 each Tail Wheel Assembly With Mounting Hardware1 each Elevator Pushrod Wire - .040 x 24"1 each Rudder Pushrod Wire - .040 x 24"1 each Throttle Pushrod Wire - .040 x 14"
Hard
ware:
6 each
#2 x 3/8" Battery Hatch (2) and Engine Mounting Sheet Metal Screws (4)
4 each
#2 x 1/4" Wheel Pant Mounting Sheet Metal Screws
2 each
Wheel Pant Mounting Brackets
Molded Parts:
1 each
#4-40 x 1" Nylon Wing Mounting Bolt
1 each
SIG 1-1/2" dia. Spinner Assembly With Metal Shaft Adaptors (2) For Norvel
®
.061 and .074 Engines
1 each
60cc (2.02 oz.) Fuel Tank Assembly With All Required Hardware
1 set
Clear Plastic Side Windows - 1 Left, 1 Right
1 set
Mini Nylon Rudder & Elevator Control Horns
3 each
Nylon Pushrod Retainers
2 each
Nylon Wheel Axle Caps
Miscellaneous:
1 each
3/16" x 3/8" x 2" Balsawood Fuel Tank Retainer
4 each
White Self-Adhesive Strips -1/4" x 10" - Wing Joint Covering
2 each
Main Wheels - 1-3/4" dia.
1 each
Instrument Panel, Printed
1 each
Wheel Fairing Cardstock - 2-1/2" x 4-1/4"
1 each
Nitro Rascal Decal Set
1 each
Nitro Rascal Assembly Manual
2
ASSEMBLY:
WINGS:
1) Start by using a hobby knife with a #11 blade to clear out the rear wing bolt holes on the top and bottom of the wing center section. Test fit the wing center section to the fuselage and secure with the provided nylon 4-40 wing bolt. The fit will be good, with the center section well centered on the fuselage.
2) Remove the center section from the fuselage and test fit the wing panels onto the exposed plywood dihedral brace ends. The fit should be firm. Use 5-minute epoxy to join one of the wing panels to the wing center section. Apply glue to the correct side of the exposed rib on the center section and also apply a thin coat onto the plywood brace. Slide the center section plywood brace into the slot in the appropriate wing panel. Press the wing panel firmly in place to the center section. Wipe off all excess glue with acetone or alcohol and tape the panel securely to the center section - top and bottom. Allow the epoxy to set and glue the remaining wing panel in place.
3) After the glue has set, use the four provided 1/4" x 10" self­adhesive strips of white Oracover
®
film to cover the bottom and top
wing joints, centering the covering over each joint. Save the
excess strip material. Check the fit of the completed wing to the fuselage. Remove the wing and set it aside for now.
FUSELAGE:
1) Using a hobby knife and a sharp #11 blade, clear-out and open up the various required holes in the fuselage covering; the rear rudder and elevator control cable exits, the antenna exit hole on the right fuselage side at the top just behind the window location and the on/off switch slot on the left fuselage side, beneath the side window. Also cut the covering away from the slots on each side of covered plywood landing gear spreader.
2) From the kit contents, locate the printed instrument panel. Use scissors to cut out the instrument panel including a recess at the top, allowing clearance for the forward cockpit supports. Test fit the instrument panel in place. Trim as needed for a good fit. Glue panel to front fuselage cabin former using a little white glue.
3) The rudder and elevator servos are now installed into fuselage. Note that the pre-installed r udder and elevator pushrod tubes cross each other as the progress to the rear of the fuselage. Therefore, viewing the fuselage from the rear, the rudder servo is installed on the right side of the servo tray and the elevator ser vo is installed next to it, on the left side. Both servo output arms face
3
toward the fuselage sides at 90Oto the servo body. The throttle servo is installed with its output arm aligned with the throttle pushrod tube.
4) From the kit contents, locate the two .040 x 24" wire pushrods for the rudder and elevator and one .040" x 14" pushrod for the throttle. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, bend a simple Z-bend into one end of each of the three pushrods. Insert the straight, unbent end of one of the 24pushrods into one of the plastic pushrod tubes - just behind the servo tray - and feed it through to the exit at the rear of the fuselage. This is easiest to do by running the wire through one of the side window openings. Install the remaining 24pushrod in the same manner.
Feed the 14" throttle pushrod wire through the top rear wing opening and into its plastic tube. Take care not to permanently bend or kink the pushrod during this process. Remove the servo output retaining screws in all three servos. Remove the output arms and attach the "Z" bend end of each pushrod to its corresponding output arm. Temporarily press each output arm back in place onto the servos. Plug your servos into the appropriate receptacles in the receiver and plug the battery pack into the system. Turn the transmitter on, making sure the trim levers are in neutral. Now reposition the rudder and elevator output arms back onto their respective servos, as close to 90
O
as
possible to the servo body. The throttle output arm must move back and forth to operate the engine's throttle lever, so set it at about 20
O
to obtain roughly equal fore and aft movement. With the output arms correctly in place, re-install the output arm retaining screws and turn the radio system off.
5) The main landing gear is now glued in place in the fuselage using 5-minute epoxy. First check the fit by sliding the landing gear in place into the two slots at the bottom, front of the fuselage. Carefully slide the gear all the way up into place inside the fuselage to get a feel for the fit. Remove the gear from the fuselage and use sandpaper to sand the wire, where it contacts the fuselage sides. Apply 5-minute epoxy into each landing gear slot on the inside of the fuselage - just enough to fill the slots. Once again slide the landing gear wire in place into the fuselage. Carefully wipe off any excess glue with alcohol and allow the glue to set.
6) Fit the covered plywood landing gear spreader in place over the wire landing gear legs and onto the bottom of the fuselage. Trim as needed for a good fit. Remove the spreader and apply 5-minute epoxy to its bottom outside edges, where it contacts the fuselage bottom. Also apply a little glue along the front edge of the spreader where it butts against the bottom forward fuselage sheeting. Press the spreader in place, wipe off any excess glue with alcohol. Tape firmly and allow the glue to set.
7) The 2-ounce (60cc) fuel tank supplied with this kit is now assembled. We suggest using a simple two-line system in this airplane. One fuel line is connected to the "clunk" or fuel pick-up line and the engine's carburetor. The second line is the overflow line for use when filling the tank. This same line is then connected to the muffler pressure nipple, providing muffler pressure to the fuel tank. Note that the "sides" of the fuel tank are the flat sides.
The rubber stopper for the tank has two holes all the way through it. Use these two holes for the two aluminum fuel lines. Slip two aluminum tubes through the rubber stopper. Slide the smaller
4
diameter rear clamp plate over the two tubes and up against the rear face of the rubber stopper. Slide the larger diameter front plate over the two aluminum tubes at the front of the stopper and up against the stopper itself. Press the clamp bolt through the front plate and the rubber stopper, back to the rear plate. Use a screwdriver to start the bolt threads into the rear plate - do not tighten yet. At the front, leave approximately 1/4" of each tube exposed in front of the plate. Gently bend the aluminum overflowtube upwards to about 80
O
to reach the top of the tank body - always leave about 1/32" space between the overflow tube and the inside of the tank body. Trim the two tubes to appropriate length and remove any burrs with sandpaper. Install the fuel pick­up weight onto one end of the silicon tubing. Measure and cut the tubing length to allow the fuel pick-up weight to just about reach the rear of the fuel tank, allowing its free movement within the tank­body when the rubber stopper is fully in place in the front of the tank. With everything now adjusted and fitting nicely, insert the tank stopper assembly fully into the front of the tank body and use a screwdriver to firmly tighten the clamp bolt while holding the stopper assembly firmly in proper orientation. The bolt compresses the rubber stopper between the plates, forming a good tank seal.
8) The assembled fuel tank is now installed into the fuselage. First, trial-fit the tank in place to check for the fit. Insert the tank into the nose of the fuselage through the bottom Tank Hatch opening and guide the front of the tank to the pre-cut round opening in the firewall. The tank stopper should fit through this hole and the tank body should fit up against the rear face of the firewall. Remove the fuel tank from the fuselage. Apply a generous bead of clear silicon adhesive (bathroom type is fine) around the tank stopper at the front of the tank. Re-install the tank into the fuselage - mak
e sure it is right side up - and press it firmly in place against the firewall. From the kit contents, locate the 3/16" x 3/8" x 2" balsawood Fuel Tank Retainer. This retainer is inserted into the fuselage, between the fuselage sides, at the rear of the fuel tank to hold it firmly in place to the firewall. If needed, lightly sand its ends to achieve a firm fit. Hold the retainer in place and use a drop of two of thin CA glue to hold it in place to each
fuselage side.
9) Locate the pre-covered Tank/Battery Hatch from the kit contents. This hatch has a plywood "lip" at one end and two pre-drilled holes at the other end. The end with the lip is the front. The hatch fits into the bottom of the fuselage and is removable for ready access to the fuel tank and the battery compartment beneath the tank. Install the front hatch lip into the fuselage, beneath the landing gear spreader, pressing it firmly in place to the fuselage.
Hold the hatch in place and use your pin vise and a .046" dia. drill bit (#56 numbered drill) to drill two holes through the hatch retention block, directly beneath the two pre-drilled holes. The hatch can now be secured to the fuselage using the two #2 x 3/8" sheet metal screws provided - do not over-tighten these screws, just snug them in place to create the threads. Remove the screws and the hatch from the fuselage. Apply a drop of thin CA glue into each screw hole. Allow the glue to set and re-thread the screws into each hole to establish the threads. Set the hatch and mounting screws aside for now.
ENGINE INSTALLATION:
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PROP T ALK:
Before installing the engine, it is important to give some thought to suitable propellers for your airplane/engine combination. We have used a variety of propellers for our Nitro Rascal ARF models and have learned that different brands seem to all have different prop shaft hole diameters. Usable prop sizes for the Norvel®.061 are 6" to 7" in diameter. APC produces great props in these sizes but they are produced with large diameter shaft holes. The Nor vel .061 engine has a prop shaft size of .124. APC props in the 6" to 7" diameter have much larger mounting holes. To mount an APC prop, we found that the easiest way to center it to the Norvel prop shaft was to "sleeve" its mounting hole with two short lengths of telescoping K&S aluminum tubing. The inner piece of tubing has a 1/8" dia. I.D. which fits perfectly.
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