Schwinn HELMETS SAVE LIVES User Manual

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Page 1

HELMETS SAVE LIVES !!!

ALWAYS WEAR A PROPERLY FITTED HELMET WHEN YOU RIDE YOUR BICYCLE. DO NOT RIDE AT NIGHT. AVOID RIDING IN WET CONDITIONS.

CORRECT FITTING - MAKE SURE YOUR HELMET COVERS YOUR FOREHEAD.

INCORRECT FITTING. FOREHEAD IS EXPOSED AND VULNERABLE TO SERIOUS INJURY.

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ersonal

are

from Pacific Cycle

1.800.626.2811

Congratulations on your new bike!

Our Service Department is dedicated

to your satisfaction with Pacific Cycle.

We want to help with any questions

or comments you may have.

You can also reach us by email at:

service@pacific-cycle.com.

DO NOT Return this Product to the Store.

Please Call Pacific Cycle for Assistance.

STOP

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RIDING SAFELY

General Rules

When riding obey the same road laws as all other road vehicles, including giving way to pedestrians, and stopping at red lights and stop signs.

For further information, contact the Road Traffic Authority in your State. Ride predictably and in a straight line. Never ride against traffic. Use correct hand signals to indicate turning or stopping. Ride defensively. To other road users, you may be hard to see. Concentrate on the path ahead. Avoid pot holes, gravel, wet road markings, oil, curbs, speed

bumps, drain grates and other obstacles. Cross train tracks at a 90 degree angle or walk your bicycle across. Expect the unexpected such as opening car doors or cars backing out of concealed driveways. Be extra careful at intersections and when preparing to pass other vehicles. Familiarize yourself with all the bicycle's features. Practice gear shifts, braking, and the use of

toe clips and straps, if fitted. If you are wearing loose pants, use leg clips or elastic bands to prevent them from being caught

in the chain. Don't carry packages or passengers that will interfere with your visibility or control of the bicycle.

Don't use items that may restrict your hearing. When braking, always apply the rear brake first, then the front. The front brake is more powerful

and if it is not correctly applied, you may lose control and fall. Maintain a comfortable stopping distance from all other riders, vehicles and objects.

Safe braking distances and forces are subject to the prevailing weather conditions.

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Wet Weather

DO NOT RIDE IN WET WEATHER

- In wet weather you need to take extra care.

- Brake earlier, you will take a longer distance to stop.

- Decrease your riding speed, avoid sudden braking, and take corners with additional caution.

- Be more visible on the road.

- Wear reflective clothing and use safety lights.

- Pot holes and slippery surfaces such as line markings and train tracks all become more hazardous when wet.

Night Riding

- Ensure bicycle is equipped with a full set of correctly positioned and clean reflectors.

- Refer to p. 82 of this manual.

- Use a properly functioning lighting set comprising a white front lamp and a red rear lamp.

- If using battery powered lights, make sure batteries are well charged.

- Some rear lights available have a flashing mechanism which enhances visibility.

- Wear reflective and light colored clothing.

- Ride at night only if necessary. Slow down and use familiar roads with street lighting, if possible.

Pedaling Technique

- Position the ball of your foot on the center of the pedal.

- When pedaling, ensure your knees are parallel to the bicycle frame.

- To absorb shock, keep your elbows slightly bent.

- Learn to operate the gears properly. (Refer to p. 13-15)

Do not ride at night

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Hill Technique

- Gear down before a climb and continue gearing down as required to maintain pedaling speed.

- If you reach the lowest gear and are struggling, stand up on your pedals. You will then obtain more power from each pedal revolution.

- On the descent, use the high gears to avoid rapid pedaling.

- Do not exceed a comfortable speed, maintain control and take additional care.

Cornering Technique

Brake slightly before cornering and prepare to lean your body into the corner. Maintain the inside pedal at the 12 o'clock position and slightly point the inside knee in the direction you are turning. Keep the other leg straight, don't pedal through fast or tight corners.

Rules for Children

To avoid accidents, teach children good riding skills with an emphasis on safety from an early age.

1. Always wear a properly fitted helmet.

2. Do not play in driveways or the road.

3. Do not ride on busy streets.

4. Do not ride at night.

5. Obey all the traffic laws, especially stop signs and red lights.

6. Be aware of other road vehicles behind and nearby.

7. Before entering a street: Stop, look right, left, and right again for traffic.

If there's no traffic, proceed into the roadway.

8. If riding downhill, be extra careful. Slow down using the brakes and maintain control of the steering.

9. Never take your hands off the handlebars, or your feet off the pedals when riding downhill.

The Consumer Protection Safety Commission advises that the riding of small wheel diameter bicycles at excessive speeds can lead to instability and is not recommended.

Children should be made aware of all possible riding hazards and correct riding behavior before they take to the streets

- Do not leave it up to trial and error.

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GEARS - HOW TO OPERATE

Derailleur Gears

Most multi-speed bicycles today are equipped with what are known as derailleur gears. They operate using a system of levers and mechanisms to move the drive chain between different sized driving gears or cogs. The purpose of gears is to let you maintain a constant, steady pedaling pace under varying conditions. This means your riding will be less tiring without unnecessary straining up hills or fast pedaling down hill. Bicycles come with a variety of gear configurations from 5 to 27 speeds. A 5-6 speed bicycle will have a single front chainwheel, a rear derailleur, and 5 or 6 cogs on the rear hub. Bicycles with more gears will also have a front derailleur, a front chainwheel with 2-3 cogs, and up to 8 cogs on the rear hub.

Operating Principles

No matter how many gears, the operating principles are the same. The front derailleur is operated by the left shift lever and the rear derailleur by the right. To operate you must be pedaling forward. You can not shift derailleur gears when you are stopped or when pedaling backwards. Before shifting ease up on your pedaling pressure. For a smooth gear change when approaching a hill, shift to a lower gear BEFORE your pedaling speed slows down too much. When coming to a stop, shift to a lower gear first so it will be easier when you start riding again. If, after selecting a new gear position, you hear a slight rubbing noise from the front or rear gears, gently adjust the appropriate shifter using the barrel adjusters until the noise goes away. For optimal performance and extended chain life, it is recommended that you avoid using the extreme combinations of gear positions (diagram p.

14) for extended periods.

Drivetrain

Freewheel Cogs

Front Derailleur

Derailleur Control Cable

Guide Pulley

Rear Derailleur

Front Chainwheels

Crank Arm

Pedal

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Recommended Chainwheel/Rear Sprocket Gear Combinations

Hand Grip Shifters

Some bicycles are now being equipped with a shifting mechanism called Grip Shift, which is built into the handlebar grips and does not make use of separate levers. The actuating mechanism is built into the inside part of the grip that the web of the thumb and index finger closes around. To select a lower gear, twist the right shifter toward you to engage a larger rear cog. You can shift one gear at a time by moving the Grip Shift one click, or through multiple gears by continued twisting. By twisting the left shifter forward or away from you, a smaller chainwheel can be selected. To select a higher gear, twist the right shifter forward or away from you to engage a smaller rear cog. To engage a larger front chainwheel, twist the left shifter towards you. Single shifts can be achieved by twisting one click at a time and multiple shifts by larger twists.

Front Low Gear Rear Low Gear

Front High Gear Rear High Gear

High

Middle Low

High

Low

For optimal performance,

NOT RECOMMENDED

For optimal performance,

NOT RECOMMENDED

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Please Retain your Sales Receipt

as Proof of Purchase.

Notes:

_______________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________

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The following manual is only a guide to assist you and is not a complete or comprehensive manual of all aspects of

Serial Number Location

Bottom View

Serial Number

maintaining and repairing your bicycle. The bicycle you have purchased is a complex object. We recommend that you consult a bicycle specialist if you have doubts or concerns as to your experience or ability to properly assemble, repair, or maintain your bicycle. You will save time and the inconvenience of having to go back to the store if you choose to write or call us concerning missing parts, service questions, operating advice, and/or assembly questions.

SERVICE

CALL TOLL FREE 1.800.626.2811

Monday - Friday 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Central Time

PACIFICCYCLE

4902 Hammersley Road Madison, WI 53711 Customer Service 1.800.626.2811 www.pacific-cycle.com

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Thank You for purchasing your bicycle. Please take a moment to fill out this reply card, and mail it back to us. We value your business and appreciate your feedback.

Name: ______________________________________________ Birthdate: ____________________ Address:__________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________ E-mail Address: ____________________________Phone Number: ________________________ Bicycle Model purchased: __________________________________________________________ Store at which you purchased your bicycle: ____________________________________________ Serial Number ____________________________________________________________________

How did you hear about your bicycle?

Magazine Ad Newspaper Ad

In Store Display Friends

Web Site Other (Please specify)

Cut along dotted line before mailing

What was the most important factor in choosing your bicycle?

Color / Graphics

Price

Cut along dotted line before mailing

Frame Style Components

Gift Other (Please specify)

www.pacific-cycle.com

Page 11

BICYCLE REGISTRATION

Cut along dotted line before mailing

4902 HAMMERSLEY ROAD MADISON, WI 53711

PLACE STAMP

HERE

Page 12

DIRECTORY

PART 1

PART 2

PART 3

PART 4

PART 5

PART 7

Parts Identification ................................................01-05

Before You Ride ....................................................06-21

Assembly ..............................................................22-54

Servicing ................................................................55-57

Detailed Maintenance ............................................58-90

Purchase Record and Warranty ........................104-105

Warning / Important

Take notice of this symbol throughout this manual and pay particular attention to the instructions blocked off and preceded by this symbol.

PART 6

How Things Work ................................................91-103

PACIFICCYCLE

4902 Hammersley Road Madison, WI 53711 Customer Service 1.800.626.2811 www.pacific-cycle.com

Page 13

1. PARTS IDENTIFICATION 2-5

Mountain Bicycles 2 BMX Bicycles 3

Tools Required4

2. BEFORE YOU RIDE 6-21

Correct Frame Size 6 Riding Position7

-Saddle Height 7

-Reach 7

-Handlebar Height 8

Safety Checklist 9-10

-Brakes 9

-Wheels & Tires 9

-Steering9

-Chain10

-Bearings 10

-Cranks & Pedals10

-Derailleurs 10

-Frame & Fork 10

-Accessories 10 Helmets 11

Reflectors 12-13

Riding Safely 14-16

-General Rules 14

-Wet Weather Riding 15

-Night Riding 15

-Pedaling Technique 15

-Hill Technique 16

-Cornering Technique 16

-Rules for Children 16

Gears - How to Operate 17-19

-Derailleur Gears 17

-Operating Principles17

-Hand Grip Shifters 18

-Thumb Shifters 19

-Below the Bar Shifters 19

Bicycle Care 20-21

-Basic Maintenance 20

-Storage 21

-Security 21

3. ASSEMBLY 22-54

Derailleur Geared Bicycle 22-42

Handlebars 22-24 Forks 25 Seat and Seat Post 26 Pedals & Crank Set 27 Front Wheel 28 Quick Release Axle 28-29

Front Brake 29-36

-Cantilever with Link Wire 29-30

-Cantilever with Straddle Cable 31

-V-Style 31-33

-Check your Brakes 34

-Disk Brakes 35-36 Derailleur 37-38

-Rear Derailleur 37

-Front Derailleur 38 Dual Suspension 39

Rear Pivots 40 Accessories 41 Reflectors 41 Final Check 42

Single Speed & BMX 43-54

Handlebars 43 Seat 44 Pedals & Crank Set 44 Frontwheel 45

Front Brake 45 Side Pull Brake 46 Cantilever with Link Wire 46-47 V-Brake 48-49 Cantilever with Straddle Cable50 Check your Brakes 51 Training Wheels51 Rotors 52-53 Final Check 54

4. SERVICING 55-57

Schedule 1 - Lubrication55 Schedule 2 - Service Checklist 56 Tools Required57

5. DETAILED MAINTENANCE 58-90

Wheel Inspection 58 Tire Inspection59

Tire Pressures59 Hub Bearing Adjustment 60 Flat Tire Repair 60-61 Handlebar Stem 62-63 Handlebars 63

Grip Shift Installation64 Cables & Cable Housing 65

Headset 66

-Inspection66

-Adjustment 66

Suspension Fork67

-RST Maintenance 67

-RST Reassembly67

-Check before each ride 67

Saddle & Seat Post 68-69

-Inspection68

-Lubrication68

-Adjustment 69

Brakes 70-73

-Inspection 70-71

-Lubrication71

-Adjustment Sidepull Calipers 71-72

-Adjustment Cantilever Calipers 72-73

Drivetrain 74-82

-Pedals 74-75

-Inspection74

-Lubrication & Adjustment 75

-Attachment 75

-Crank Set 76-79

-Inspection76

-Lubrication & Adjustment (one piece cranks) 77

-Lubrication & Adjustment (cotterless cranks) 78-79

-Chain 80-81

-Inspection80

-Lubrication80

-Adjustment & Replacement 80-81

-Freewheel 81-82

-Inspection81

-Lubrication82

-Coaster Hub 82

Derailleur Systems 83-85

-Inspection83

-Lubrication84

-Adjustment (Rear)84

-Adjustment (Front)85 Quick Release Levers86

Reflectors 86 Miscellaneous Accessories 87 Troubleshooting 88-90

6. HOW THINGS WORK 91-103

-A. Wheel Quick Release 91-94

-B. Seatpost Quick Release 95

-C. Brakes 96-97

-D. Shifting 97-99

-E. Toeclips & Straps 100

-F. Clipless (“step-in”) pedals 101

-G. Tires and Tubes 101-102

-H. Bicycle Suspension 103

7. PURCHASE RECORD 104-105 & WARRANTY

Page 14

Gear Control Cable

Rear Derailleur

PART 1 - PARTS IDENTIFICATION

Mountain Bicycles . Mountain bicycles are designed to give maximum comfort over a wide variety of road surfaces. The wider handlebars and convenient shift lever position make them very easy to control. Wider rims and tires give them a softer ride with more traction on rough surfaces. The frame and fork on mountain style bicycles are much sturdier than those on racing style bicycles.

Top Tube Seat Seat Post Quick Release Seat Stay Rear Reflector Rear Brake Wheel Reflector Freewheel

Shift Lever

Handlebar

Brake Lever

Brake Control Cables

Front Reflector

Front Brake

Front Fork

Wheel Reflector

Front Hub

Spokes

Handlebar Stem

Head Set

Head Tube

Seat Tube

Down Tube

Gear Control Cable

Front Derailleur

Bottom

Bracket Axle

Rim Tire

Chain Wheel

Crank Arm

Pedal

Chainstay

Chain

Tire Valve

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BMX Bicycles . BMX style bicycles are a popular general purpose type most suited for young riders. They are valued because of their sturdy and simple construction, and low maintenance.

Seat Seat Post Seat Post Binder Bolt Seat Stay Rear Reflector Wheel Reflector

Chain Wheel

Crank Arm

Pedal

Rim

Tire

Tire Valve

Chain Rear Sprocket Training Wheel

Brake Lever

Handlebar

Brake Control Cable

Reflector

Front Brake

Brake Pad Front Fork

Wheel Reflector

Front Hub

Spokes

Handlebar Grip

Handlebar Stem

Head Set

Head Tube

Top Tube

Seat Tube

Down Tube

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Your new bicycle was assembled and tuned in the factory and then partially disassembled for shipping. You may have purchased the bicycle already fully re-assembled and ready to ride OR in the shipping carton in the partially disassembled form. The following instructions will enable you to prepare your bicycle for years of enjoyable cycling. For more details on inspection, lubrication, maintenance and adjustment of any area please refer to the relevant sections in this manual. If you have questions about your ability to properly assemble this unit, please consult a qualified specialist before riding. If you need replacement parts or have questions pertaining to assembly of your bicycle, call the service line direct at:

SERVICE AND TECHNICAL SUPPORT:

1.800.626.2811

Monday - Friday 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Central Time.

Tools Required:

Phillips head screw driver; 4mm, 5mm 6mm & 8mm Allen keys; adjustable wrench or a 9mm, 10mm, 14mm & 15mm open and box end wrenches; and a pliers with cable cutting ability.

To avoid injury, this product must be properly assembled before use. If your bicycle was obtained assembled, we strongly recommend that you review the complete assembly instructions, and perform checks specified in this manual before riding.

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ABOUT THIS MANUAL

This manual was written to help you get the most performance, comfort, enjoyment and safety when riding your new bicycle. It is important for you to understand your new bike. By reading this manual before you go out on your first ride, you’ll know how to get

the most from your new bicycle. It is also important that your first ride on your new bicycle is taken in a controlled environment, away from cars, obstacles, and other

cyclists.

GENERAL WARNING

Bicycling can be a hazardous activity even under the best of circumstances. Proper maintenance of your bicycle is your responsibility as it helps reduce the risk of injury. This manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” concerning the consequences of failure to maintain or inspect your bicycle. Many of the warnings and cautions say, “you may lose control and fall.” Because any fall can result in serious injury or even death, we do not repeat the warning of possible injury or death whenever the risk of falling is mentioned.

A SPECIAL NOTE FOR PARENTS

It is a tragic fact that most bicycle accidents involve children. As a parent or guardian, you bear the responsibility for the activities and safety of your minor child. Among these responsibilities are to make sure that the bicycle which your child is riding is properly fitted to the child: that it is in good repair and safe operating condition; that you and your child have learned, understand and obey not only the applicable local motor vehicle, bicycle, and traffic laws, but also the common sense rules of safe and responsible bicycling. As a parent, you should read this manual before letting your child ride the bicycle. Please make sure that your child always wears an approved bicycle helmet when riding.

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CORRECT FRAME SIZE

When selecting a new bicycle, the correct choice of frame size is a very important safety consideration. Most full sized bicycles come in a range of frame sizes. These sizes usually refer to the distance between the center of the bottom bracket and the top of the frame seat tube.

For safe and comfortable riding there should be a clearance of between 25mm and 50mm between the groin area of the intended rider and the top tube of the bicycle frame, while the rider straddles the bicycle with both feet flat on the ground.

The ideal clearance will vary between types of bicycles and rider preference. This makes straddling the frame when off the saddle easier and safer in situations such as sudden traffic stops. Women can use a men’s style bicycle to determine the correct size women’s model.

The following chart and diagram will help you make the correct choice. Rider leg length refers to approximate pant inseam.

PART 2 - BEFORE YOU RIDE

Approximate Rider Leg

Length

61-69cm / 24-27 inches 66-76cm / 26-30 inches 71-79cm / 28-31 inches 76-84cm / 30-33 inches 79-86cm / 31-34 inches 81-89cm / 32-35 Inches 86-94cm / 34-37 inches

Suggested Frame Size for

Racing/Touring Bicycle

50cm / 19.5 inches 55cm / 21.5 inches 57cm / 22.5 inches

60cm / 23.5 Inches

63cm / 25 inches

Suggested Frame Size for

Mountain or Hybrid Bicycle

37cm / 14.5 inches

43cm / 17 inches

45cm / 18 inches 50cm / 19.5 inches 52cm / 20.5 inches

53-56cm / 21-22 Inches

58-60cm / 23-23.5 inches

Frame Sizing Guide

25-50mm

Page 19

RIDING POSITION Saddle Height

In order to obtain the most comfortable riding position and offer the best possible pedaling efficiency, the seat height should be set correctly in relation to the rider’s leg length. The correct saddle height should not allow leg strain from over-extension, and the hips should not rock from side to side when pedaling. While sitting on the bicycle with one pedal at its lowest point, place the ball of your foot on that pedal. The correct saddle height will allow the knee to be slightly bent in this position. If the rider then places the heel of that foot on the pedal, the leg should be almost straight.

Under no circumstances should the seat post project from the frame beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark. If your seat post projects

from the frame beyond these markings, the seat post or frame may break, which could cause you to lose control and fall. After any saddle adjustment, be sure to tighten the saddle adjusting mechanism properly before riding. Aloose saddle clamp or seat post binder can cause damage to the bicycle or can cause you to lose control and fall. Periodically check to make sure that the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly tightened.

Reach

To obtain maximum comfort, the rider should not overextend his or her reach when riding.

To adjust this distance, the position of the seat can be altered in relation to the seat pillar. (Refer to p. 65 on how to adjust the seat clamp.)

Maximum Height / Mini-

mum Insertion Mark

(Should not be visible)

Arms not over-

extended

Handlebar stem

height about the

same as

seat height

Pedal at

bottom position

Page 20

Handlebar Height

Maximum comfort is usually obtained when the handlebar height is equal to the height of the seat. You may wish to try different heights to find the most comfortable position.

Threadless headsets and clamp-on stems are not adjustable and are outside the scope of this manual. Please consult a qualified bicycle technician for details and instructions on how to adjust and maintain these types of systems.

The stem’s “Minimum Insertion” mark must not be visible above the top of the headset. If the stem is extended beyond this mark, the stem may break or damage the fork’s steerer tube, which could cause you to lose control and fall.

Failure to properly tighten the stem binder bolt, the handlebar binder bolt, or the bar end extension clamping bolts may compromise steering action, which could cause you to lose control and fall. Place the front wheel of the bicycle between your legs and attempt to twist the handlebar/stem assembly. If you can twist the stem in relation to the front wheel, turn the handlebars in relation to the stem, or turn the bar end extensions in relation to the handlebar, you must tighten the appropriate bolts accordingly.

Handlebar Binder Bolt

Exceeds 2 1/2” (64mm)

Stem Wedge Bolt

Maximum Height/ Minimum Insertion Mark

Page 21

SAFETY CHECKLIST

Before every ride, it is important to carry out the following safety checks:

1. Brakes

- Ensure front and rear brakes work properly.

- Ensure brake shoe pads are not over worn and are correctly positioned in relation to the rims.

- Ensure brake control cables are lubricated, correctly adjusted, and display no obvious wear.

- Ensure brake control levers are lubricated and tightly secured to the handlebar.

2. Wheels and Tires

- Ensure tires are inflated to within the maximum recommended limit as displayed on the tire sidewall.

- Ensure tires have tread and have no bulges or excessive wear.

- Ensure rims run true and have no obvious wobbles or kinks.

- Ensure all wheel spokes are tight and not broken.

- Check that axle nuts are tight. If your bicycle is fitted with quick release axles, make sure locking levers are correctly tensioned and in the closed position.

3. Steering

- Ensure handlebar and stem are correctly adjusted and tightened, and allow proper steering.

- Ensure that the handlebars are set correctly in relation to the forks and the direction of travel.

- Check that the head set locking mechanism is properly adjusted and tightened.

- If the bicycle is fitted with handlebar end extensions, ensure they are properly positioned and tightened.

Page 22

4. Chain

- Ensure chain is oiled, clean and runs smoothly.

- Extra care is required in wet or dusty conditions.

5. Bearings

- Ensure all bearings are lubricated, run freely and display no excess movement, grinding or rattling.

- Check headset, wheel bearings, pedal bearings and bottom bracket bearings.

6. Cranks and Pedals

- Ensure pedals are securely tightened to the cranks.

- Ensure cranks are securely tightened to the axle and are not bent.

7. Derailleurs

- Check that front and rear mechanisms are adjusted and function properly.

- Ensure control levers are securely attached.

- Ensure derailleurs, shift levers and control cables are properly lubricated.

8. Frame and Fork

- Check that the frame and fork are not bent or broken.

- If either are bent or broken, they should be replaced.

9. Accessories

- Ensure that all reflectors are properly fitted and not obscured.

- Ensure all other fittings on the bike are properly and securely fastened, and functioning.

- Ensure the rider is wearing a helmet.

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Helmets

It is strongly advised that a properly fitting, ANSI or SNELL approved, bicycle safety helmet be worn at all times when riding your bicycle. In addition, if you are carrying a passenger in a child safety seat, they must also be wearing a helmet.

The correct helmet should:

- be comfortable

- be lightweight

- have good ventilation

- fit correctly

Always wear a properly fitted helmet when riding a bicycle. Many states require specific safety devices. It is your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the state where you ride and to comply with all applicable laws, including properly equipping yourself and your bike as the law requires. Reflectors are important safety devices which are designed as an integral part of your bicycle. Federal regulations require every bicycle to be equipped with front, rear, wheel, and pedal reflectors. These reflectors are designed to pick up and reflect street lights and car lights in a way that helps you to be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist. Check reflectors and their mounting brackets regularly to make sure they are clean, straight, unbroken, and securely mounted. Have your dealer replace damaged reflectors and straighten or tighten any that are bent or loose.

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Reflectors

Your bicycle is supplied with one front (white), one rear (red), two wheel (white), and two pedal (orange) reflectors. These are an important safety and legal requirement, and should remain securely fitted and in good, clean conditions at all times. Periodically, inspect all reflectors, brackets and mounting hardware for signs of wear or damage. Replace immediately if damage is found. Some bicycles will require you to install your reflectors onto your bicycle. Please refer to the following section for instructions on all the types of bicycle reflectors.

Fork Mount Reflector Bracket Assembly

First insert one washer onto the hex bolt and insert hex bolt through the reflector bracket and then through the fork. Next, insert a second washer onto the bolt and thread a hex nut onto the bolt behind the fork. Tighten bolts until snug, making sure the reflector is in an upright position. See diagram at the right.

Front Reflector Mount with Caliper Brake Assembly

First remove the hex nut from the back of the fork and pull the brake from the fork. Insert a washer and the reflector bracket on to the caliper bolt. Insert the caliper bolt back into the fork and secure firmly with a washer and the hex nut. Finally, adjust the reflector such that it is in an upright position. See diagram at the right.

Page 25

Seat and Handlebar Mounting Reflectors

First attach the reflector to the reflector bracket with the reflector screw, see the top diagram. Next, remove the clamp screw and open the clamping reflector bracket. Place clamping reflector bracket around the handlebar or seatpost. If the clamp is too loose, insert the shim inside of the clamp. Tighten the clamp screw to hold reflector assembly in place, see the second diagram. Finally, adjust the reflector assembly in place. Finally, adjust the reflector such that it is upright and facing away from the bike.

Chainstay Mount Reflector Bracket Assembly

first insert one washer onto the hex bolt and insert hex bolt through the reflector bracket and then through the chainstay bridge. Next, insert a second washer onto the bolt and thread a hex nut onto the bolt behind the chainstay bridge. Tighten bolts until snug, making sure the reflector is in an upright position. See diagram at the right.

Page 26

Thumb Shifters (Top Mounted)

Most mountain style bicycles are equipped with shifters mounted on the top of the handlebars and operated by the thumbs. To select a lower, easier gear, shift to a bigger rear cog and a small chainwheel. Pull the left shifter back to operate the front derailleur, and push the right shifter forward to operate the rear derailleur. To select a higher, harder gear, shift to a smaller rear cog and a larger chainwheel. Push the left shifter forward for the front, and pull the right lever back for the rear.

Below the Bar Shifters

Many mountain style bicycles now use a shift lever arrangement mounted on the underside of the handlebars, which use two levers operated by the thumb and index finger. To select a lower gear push the larger (lower) right shifter with your thumb to engage a larger rear cog. One firm push shifts the chain one cog, continuing to push will move the chain over multiple cogs. Pulling the smaller (upper) left shifter with your index finger moves the chain from a larger to a smaller chainwheel. To select a higher gear pull the smaller (upper) right lever with your index finger to engage a smaller rear cog. Pushing the larger (lower) left lever with your thumb will move the chain from a smaller to a larger chainwheel.

Top Gear

(Harder)

Small rear sprocket

Large chainwheel

Left hand lever forward

Right hand lever back

Bottom Gear

(Easier)

Large rear sprocket

Small chainwheel

Left hand lever back

Right hand lever forward

Left hand lever Right hand lever

Page 27

BICYCLE CARE

Basic Maintenance

The following procedures will help you maintain your bicycle for years of enjoyable riding. For painted frames, dust the surface and remove any loose dirt with a dry cloth. To clean, wipe with a damp cloth

soaked in a mild detergent mixture. Dry with a cloth and polish with car or furniture wax. Use soap and water to clean plastic parts and rubber tires. Chrome plated bikes should be wiped over with a rust preventative fluid.

Store your bicycle under shelter. Avoid leaving it in the rain or exposed to corrosive materials. Riding on the beach or in coastal areas exposes your bicycle to salt which is very corrosive. Wash your bicycle frequently and wipe or spray all unpainted parts with an anti-rust treatment. Make sure wheel rims are dry so braking performance is not affected. After rain, dry your bicycle and apply anti-rust treatment.

If the hub and bottom bracket bearings of your bicycle have been submerged in water, they should be taken out and re-greased. This will prevent accelerated bearing deterioration.

If paint has become scratched or chipped to the metal, use touch up paint to prevent rust. Clear nail polish can also be used as a preventative measure.

Regularly clean and lubricate all moving parts, tighten components and make adjustments as required. (Refer to Parts 4 and 5 of this manual for further details). The use of alloy components and BED, SATIN, and TITANIUM surface treatments minimizes the number of places where rust can surface.

Page 28

Storage

Keep your bicycle in a dry location away from the weather and the sun. Ultraviolet rays may cause paint to fade or rubber and plastic parts to crack.Before storing your bicycle for a long period of time, clean and lubricate all components and wax the frame. Deflate the tires to half pressure and hang the bicycle off the ground. Don't store near electric motors as ozone emissions may effect the rubber and paint. Don't cover with plastic as "sweating” will result which may cause rusting. Please notice that your bicycle warranty does not cover paint damage, rust, corrosion, dry rot, or theft.

Security

It is advisable that the following steps be taken to prepare for and help prevent possible theft.

1. Maintain a record of the bicycle’s serial number, generally located on the frame underneath the bottom bracket.

2. Register the bicycle with the local police.

3. Invest in a high quality bicycle lock that will resist hack saws and bolt cutters. Always lock your bicycle to an immovable object if it is left unattended.

Page 29

DERAILLEUR GEARED BICYCLES

Includes 20", 24” and 26" Wheel Mountain Bikes Assembly is the same for men’s and women’s bikes. .

Getting Started

Open the carton from the top and remove the bicycle. Remove the straps and protective wrapping from the bicycle. Inspect the bicycle and all accessories and parts for possible shortages. It is recommended that the threads and all moving parts in the parts package be lubricated prior to installation. Do not discard packing materials until assembly is complete to insure that no required parts are accidentally discarded. Assemble your bicycle following the steps that pertain to your model.

Note: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style components than the ones illustrated.

Handlebars

Remove the protective cap from the handlebar stem wedge and loosen the Allen key bolt using the 6mm Allen key. Some models may use a 13mm hexagonal bolt instead of an Allen key bolt. Place the handlebar stem into the top of the head tube, ensuring that all cables are free of tangles. Tighten the stem bolt observing the minimum insertion mark and checking that the forks and the handlebars are facing forward. Check the headset for smooth rotation and that the top nut is secured tightly. Loosen the 6mm Binder Bolt and rotate the handlebar forward so the levers are at a 45 degree angle below the handlebar. Retighten the Binder Bolt to ensure the handlebar does not rotate in the stem.

Stem Bolt

Head Tube

Binder Bolt

Top Nut

Wedge

Minimum Insertion Mark

Warning: Over tightening the stem bolt or headset assembly may cause damage to the bicycle and/or injury to the rider.

PART 3 - ASSEMBLY

Page 30

NOTE: Comfort Series (CS) bicycles may be equipped with a stem that has an adjustable angle. In addition to the normal assembly, these stems will require angling the stem to the desired position, and securely tightening the 6mm angle bolt located in front of the stem bolt.

Failure to do this may cause loss of steering control.

If the stem is not inserted into the top nut to at least the “Minimum Insertion” mark, it is possible to over-tighten the stem bolt and damage the fork steerer tube. If these instructions are not followed, it could cause an unsafe condition and risk injury to the rider. Check steering tightness prior to riding by straddling the front wheel. Try turning the handlebar. If you can turn it without turning the front wheel, the stem is too loose. Re-align the handlebar with the front wheel and re-tighten the stem bolt.

Page 31

Tighten all bolts that clamp the shifters, brake levers, and bar ends to the handlebar using a 5mm Allen key or Phillips head screwdriver. (Figure 1) Handlebar with Grip Shifter. (Figure 2) Top mounted thumb shifter.

Bar end (5mm Allen key)

Shifter binder bolt (2.5 Allen key)

Brake lever binder bolt (5mm Allen key)

Shift binder bolt (Phillips head or 5mm Allen key)

Failure to properly tighten clamping bolts may cause sudden movement of the component resulting in loss of steering control.

Page 32

Forks

There are two different types of forks that range in styles and dimensions. One type is a rigid fork (Figure 1) consisting of stationary tubing with curved blades. The other type is a suspension fork (Figure 2) consisting of stanchion tubes riding on elastomers or springs inside of a straight fork leg. This mechanism acts as a shock absorber with a specified amount of travel that varies between models. Some suspension forks are not adjustable and are very difficult to disassemble. If service is needed on a suspension fork, consult a professional bicycle repair technician.

Do not attempt to disassemble a suspension fork yourself. Consult a professional bicycle repair technician.

Check the tightness of the headset and the fork. Rotate the fork checking for smoothness. If it feels like the fork is binding, then an adjustment will need to be made to the headset. Move the fork in a push/pull manner checking for tightness. If any play is detected, loosen the top nut, adjust the bearing cup, and retighten the top nut. Recheck the rotation and tightness. If necessary, readjust until a smooth rotation is achieved without backward or forward movement. If your bike is equipped with a suspension fork, check that the fork compresses and rebounds smoothly. To do this, place the fork dropouts against the ground, push and release the handlebar. The fork will generally compress 1-2” and rebound quickly. Most elastomer type forks will gradually soften with use.

Crown

Fork Leg

Steering Tube

Fork Leg

Brake Bridge

Crown

Steering Tube

Brake Boss

Drop-out

Brake Boss

Drop-out

Page 33

Seat Clamp

Seat Post

Quick Release

Adjusting Nut

Attach Seat Here

Boot

Minimum Insertion Mark

Insert this end into frame

Preload adjusting screw on underside

Seat and Seat Post

Attach the seat to the seat post by loosening the nuts on the seat clamp. Insert the tapered end of the seat post into the seat clamp until it is at the top of the clamp. Partially tighten the nuts on the seat clamp until the seat is snug, but can still be turned. Insert the seat assembly into the frame of the bicycle and adjust the seat to the proper height. The seat post must be inserted to at least the “Minimum Insertion” line marked on the seat post. If equipped with a quick release; tighten the adjusting nut by hand and move the quick release lever to the closed position. You should feel considerable resistance while moving the lever. If not, re-open and retighten the lever, then move it to the closed position so it is in line with the frame as pictured. If equipped with a binder clamp; Insure the lip on the binder clamp is fitted completely against the top of the seat tube of the frame. With the seat post inserted, tighten the binder bolt securely. Position the top of the seat parallel with the ground. Push the front of the seat up and down to firmly mesh the serrations together. The serrations must mesh completely together to insure a stabilized riding position. Securely tighten the nut on the seat clamp. If there is a nut on both sides of the clamp, tighten each one by alternating from one to the other. Check for tightness by twisting the seat from side to side, and from front to back. If the seat moves at the seat clamp or quick release, reposition and re-tighten the appropriate clamping mechanism.

NOTE: Comfort Series (CS) bicycles may be equipped with a suspension seat post (See Diagram-bottom left). Some suspension posts can be adjusted for stiffness using the preload adjusting screw. Turning the 6mm Allen screw Clockwise will decrease travel and make the suspension stiffer, while turning the 6mm Allen screw

Counter-clockwise will increase travel and make the suspension less rigid. Note: In addition to normal assembly, please be aware that the preload adjusting

screw must be flush with the bottom of the post. Some bicycles may come equipped with a shim that should be positioned over the lower half of the seat post and inserted into the seat tube of the frame. Failure to do this may cause irreparable damage.

The seat post must be inserted so that the minimum insertion mark cannot be seen. The quick release mechanism must be tightened securely to prevent a sudden shift of the seat when riding. Failure to do this may cause loss of bicycle control.

Page 34

Dust Cap

Pedals & Crank Set

Look for the letters “R” for right, and “L” for left, stamped on each pedal spindle. Start each pedal spindle by hand to avoid stripping the threads. Tighten with a 15mm narrow open ended wrench. Note that the right hand pedal attaches to the chainwheel side crank arm with a right-hand (clockwise) thread. The left pedal attaches to the other crank arm and has a left-hand (counter-clockwise) thread. It is very important that you check the crank set for correct adjustment and tightness before riding your bicycle. New cranks may become loose with initial use, refer to p. 73-76 for proper crank set adjustment and maintenance. Once the pedals have been installed, remove the dust caps from the center of each crank arm. Using a 14mm socket wrench, tighten the spindle nuts securely (approx. 350 in. lbs.) and replace the dust caps.

Attachment of an incorrect pedal into a crank arm will cause irreparable damage. Before your first ride, please check to insure your pedals are attached correctly.

Page 35

Front Wheel

Check the wheel hub before attaching it to the fork by rotating the threaded axle. It should be smooth with no lateral movement. Insert the front wheel into the fork dropouts. Tighten the wheel nuts using the appropriate 14mm or 15mm wrench. Spin the wheel checking for trueness. Some bicycles have wheel axles that incorporate a Quick Release (QR) mechanism. This allows easy wheel removal without the need for tools. The mechanism uses a long bolt with an adjusting nut on one end, and a lever operating a cam-action tensioner on the other. If the wheel is fitted with a Quick Release type axle, turn the adjusting nut so that the locking lever is moved to the closed position with a firm action. At the halfway closed position of the quick release lever, you should start to feel some resistance to this motion. Do not tighten the quick release by using the quick release lever like a wing nut. If the quick release lever is moved to the closed position with no resistance, clamping strength is insufficient. Move the quick release lever to the open position, tighten the quick release adjusting nut, and return the quick release lever to the closed position.

Correct Quick Release Axle Setting

1. To set, turn the lever to the open position so that the curved part faces away from the bicycle.

2. While holding the lever in one hand, tighten the adjusting nut until it stops.

3. Pivot the lever towards the closed position. When the lever is halfway closed, there must be firm resistance to turn it beyond that point. If resistance is not firm, open the lever and tighten the adjusting nut in a clockwise direction.

4. Continue to pivot the lever all the way to the closed position so that the curved part of the lever faces the bicycle.

Closed Position

Open Position

Adjusting Nut

Quick Release Axle

Quick Release Lever

Hub Axle

Hub

Spring

Page 36

Front Brake

Determine which type of brake your bike is equipped with and refer to the appropriate assembly instructions. For more information on brake adjustment and maintenance, refer to p. 66-69.

Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Link Wire

If fitted with cantilever type brakes, insert the brake cable into the link wire lead, and notch the cable end into the slot of the left brake arm. Loosen the anchor bolt on the right brake arm and slide the brake cable under the tabbed washer. Squeeze both brake arms together so the brake shoes hit the rim, pull all slack out of the brake cable, and tighten the anchor bolt. With the cable fitted, the straddle holder should sit 1020mm above the reflector bracket. Adjust the brake shoes using a 10mm wrench so that they are parallel with the rim and are positioned 1-2mm away from the rim. Several adjustments may be necessary to achieve the correct brake position.

1. Install the cable into the link wire.

2. Set the cable into the straddle holder.

5. The wheel is tightly secured when the serrated surfaces of the quick release clamping parts actually begin to cut into the bicycle frame/fork surfaces.

6. Note that the same procedure applies when operating a quick release seat post binder mechanism.

7. Turn the bicycle upright using the kickstand to support it.

If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping you fingers around the for blade for leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of you hand, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever, turn the adjusting, and try again. Continue until the QR lever closes properly. Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for a correct quick release adjustment. Failure to properly adjust the quick release mechanism can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage, which could cause you to lose control and fall, resulting in serous injury or death.

Cantilever

Cable End

Brakes

Page 37

3. Temporarily tighten the cable so

Cut off any unnecessary cable, attach an end cap, and hook it onto the notched part of the nut which secures the shoe.

Cable Casing Holder

Spring tension adjustment screw

4. Turn the spring tension adjustment screw so that the link wire comes to a position directly below the cable casing holder.

that the link wire is at the position in the illustration.

Link Wire

5. Secure one of the shoes at a time. The adjustment of the shoe clearance is not necessary at this time. Shoe fixing nut tightening torque:

7.84 - 8.82 Nm (70 - 78 in. lbs.)

Touching

Cable Anchor Bolt

1 mm

10 mm wrench 5 mm Allen key

6. If balance adjustment is necessary, adjust with the spring tension adjustment screw.

End cap

Page 38

Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Straddle Cable

The length of the straddle cable, the height of the straddle hanger, and the brake pad-to-caliper arm position all have an effect on braking power. Generally, the straddle cable bridge is set low and close to the tire for maximum braking force. The straddle cable should be high enough, however, to adequately clear the tire (and any debris that may stick to the tire) or to fit over the front reflector hanger. In the event of brake cable failure, the front reflector hanger would prevent the straddle cable from catching in the tire and locking up the front wheel. The straddle cable length (when adjustable) is set to transfer as much force to the brake pads as possible. For the most efficient transfer of force, the straddle cable and the line between the cantilever pivot and the cable anchor should form a right angle (90 degrees). If the force is not at a right angle, part of the force gets wasted in pulling on the brake post, which has no effect on braking.

V-Style Brakes

If not already assembled, take the brake noodle from the parts box and slide the cable through the larger opening. The cable housing will then seat into the end of the noodle. Slide the cable through the cable lead on the end of the left brake arm, this will cause the noodle to fit into the lead. Slip the brake cable boot over the cable and position it between both brake arms. Next, loosen the 5mm anchor bolt at the end of the right brake arm and slide the cable under the retaining washer. Pull the slack out of the cable making sure a distance of 39mm or more remains between the end of the lead and the start of the anchor bolt. Once the cable is secured to the brake arms, engage the brake lever several times, checking the position of the brake shoes at the rim. The brake shoes should be 1mm away from the rim when in a relaxed position. When the brake lever is engaged, the brake shoe should hit the rim flush (never the tire) with the front touching slightly before the rear. If this position is not achieved, adjustments to the brake shoe are required. Loosen the brake shoe hardware and reposition the brake shoe. It may take several shoe and cable adjustments before the required position is accomplished.

Straddle Cable Brake

Brake Cable

Straddle Hanger

Straddle Cable

Cable

Anchor

Caliper Arm

Pinch Bolt

Pivot

Brake Noodle

Pivot Bolt

Outer Cable Lead

Brake Shoe

Brake Cable Boot

Anchor Bolt

Brake Arm

Tension Screw

Page 39

V - Brake

If fitted with V-Brakes, insert the brake body into the center spring hole in the frame mounting boss, and then secure the brake body to the frame with the link fixing bolt.

While holding the shoe against the rim, adjust the amount of shoe protrusion by interchanging the position of the B washers (i.e. 6 mm and 3 mm) so that dimension Ais kept at 39 mm or more.

5 mm Allen key

Washer

Link

fixing

bolt

Stopper pin

Spring hole

39 mm or more

3 mm washer B 6 mm washer B

Shoe fixing nut

Washer A

Shoe fixing link

Washer

Washer A

Page 40

While holding the shoe against the

rim, tighten the shoe fixing nut.

shoe fixing nut

Adjust the balance with the spring

tension adjustment screws.

1 mm

Pass the inner cable through the inner

5 mm Allen key

cable lead. Set the cable with a clearance of 1mm between each brake pad and the rim, tighten the cable fixing bolt.

5 mm Allen key

1mm 1mm

1 mm 1 mm

Spring tension adjustment screw

Depress the brake lever about 10 times as

Spring tension adjustment screw

far as the grip to check that everything is operating correctly and that the shoe clearance is correct before using the brakes.

Depress about 10 times

Page 41

Check your Brakes

Press each brake lever to make sure that there is no binding and that the brake pads press hard enough on the rims to stop the bike. The brake pads should be adjusted so they are 1 mm to 2 mm away from the rim when the brakes are not applied. Brake pads should be centered on the rim and the rear portion of each brake pad should be about 0.5 - 1.0 mm farther from the rim than the front portion of the brake pad.

Do not ride the bicycle until the brakes are functioning properly. To test, apply the brakes while trying to push the bike forward to make sure they will stop the bicycle. Never ride a bicycle that is not functioning properly.

Sudden or excessive application of the front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars, causing serious injury or death.

Brake pad aligned with the rim surface Pad and rim should be parallel.

1- 2 mm

Direction of rim

rotation

0.5 - 1.0 mm

Page 42

Brake Cable

DISC GETS HOT! Severe injury could result from contact with the hot disc! Mind your legs, as well as your hands.

Lock Nut

Housing

Cable Insertion Slot

Caliper Mounting Bolt with spacers

Brake Pads

Caliper Mounting Bolt with spacers

Barrel Adjuster

Brake CableCable End

“C” Clip

Holder

Brake Lever

Brake Type Selector

Rotating Rod

Actuating Arm

Cable Anchor Bolt

Disk Brakes

If fitted with a front disc brake, the components should already be attached. However, please check all connections before attempting to ride the bicycle. Secure tightly the 6 bolts that hold the disc to the front wheel hub and the 2 bolts that hold the brake mechanism to the fork. Insert the front rim into the fork dropouts ensuring that the disc fits into the brake mechanism between the enclosed brake pads. Secure the front rim to the bicycle by tightening the quick release mechanism and clamping the lever to the closed position. Please refer to section 6 for

further instruction on quick release mechanisms.

Next, attach the cable to the brake lever by inserting the cable end into the cable end holder after the barrel adjuster and lock nut slots have been aligned with the cable end holder. After the cable is secured to the lever, rotate the barrel adjuster and lock nut so the slots no longer line up. Ensure the cable housing seats appropriately into the end of the barrel adjuster and check for any kinks or damage.

Slide the exposed brake cable through the rotating rod located on the caliper body and seat the housing into the same stop. Insert the cable into the spring and spring boot.

Next, slide the cable through the cable anchor and pull all the slack out. Secure the cable in place by tightening the bolts that comprise the anchor assembly. Some disc brakes will have a centering devise while others are a free-floating mechanism. If your caliper body is equipped with centering bolts, apply the brake lever after the cable has been connected. While engaging the lever, tighten the centering bolts securely. This will center the caliper body on the disc.

Page 43

Disc Mounting

Centering Bolt (inside)

These brakes require breaking in! Ride and use the brakes gently for 13 miles before using the brakes in downhill conditions, for sudden stops, or any other serious braking. Please be aware that your brake system will change in performance throughout the wear-in process. The disc brake should be cleaned before the first ride using rubbing alcohol. NEVER use oil or similar products to clean your disc brake system.

Bolts

Hub

Fork Leg

Centering Bolt

Brake Cable Housing

Rotating Rod

Caliper Body

Disc

Fork Drop Out

Quick Release lever

Actuating Arm

Caliper Mounting Bolts with spacers

Cable Boot with Spring inside

Cable Anchor Bolt

Page 44

Ensure all bolts are secured tightly and the chain does not fall off in either direction.

Guide Pulley

SIS Cable Adjuster

Adjustment Screws

Freewheel Outer side of Top Gear

Pulley Adjustment

Screw

Tension Pulley

High Gear Adjustment Screw

Low Gear Adjustment Screw

Barrel Adjuster

Rear Derailleur Side View

Derailleur

Although the front and rear derailleurs are initially adjusted at the factory, you will need to inspect and readjust both before riding the bicycle.

Rear Derailleur

Begin by shifting the rear shifter to largest number indicated, disconnect the cable from the rear derailleur cable anchor bolt, and place the chain on the smallest sprocket. Adjust the High limit screw so the guide pulley and the smallest sprocket are lined up vertically. Reconnect the cable, pull out any slack, and retighten the anchor bolt securely. Shift through the gears, making sure each gear achieved is done quietly and without hesitation. If necessary, use the barrel adjuster to fine tune each gear by turning it the direction you want the chain to go. For example, turning clockwise will loosen the cable tension and move the chain away from the wheel, while turning counter-clockwise will tighten cable tension and direct the chain towards the wheel. Shift the rear shifter to the gear one and place the chain on the largest cog. Adjust the Low limit screw in quarter turn increments until the guide pulley and the largest cog are aligned vertically. Again, shift through each gear several times, checking that each gear is achieved smoothly. It may take several attempts before the rear derailleur and cable is adjusted properly.

Page 45

Do not ride a bicycle that is not shifting properly. Overlooking proper adjustments may cause irreparable damage to the bicycle and/or bodily injury. Never move the shifter while pedaling backward, nor pedal backwards after having moved the shifter. This could jam the chain and cause serious damage to the bicycle and/or rider.

Low Adjusting Screw

Cable Anchor Bolt

Outer Chainguide

Inner Chainguard

High Adjusting

Screw

Chainguide

clearance of

1-3mm

Front Derailleur

Shift both shifters to the smallest number indicated and place the chain on the corresponding cog and chainwheel. Disconnect the front derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt. Check the position of the front derailleur; it should be parallel with the outer chainwheel and clear the largest chainwheel by 35mm when fully engaged. With the chain on the smallest chainwheel in front and the largest cog in back, adjust the Low limit screw so the chain is centered in the front derailleur cage. Reconnect the cable, pull any slack out, and tighten the anchor bolt securely. Shift the front shifter to the largest chainwheel. If the chain does not go onto the largest chainwheel, turn the high limit screw in 1/4 turn increments counter-clockwise until the chain engages the largest chainwheel. If the chain falls off the largest chainwheel, and into the pedals, you will need to turn the High limit screw in 1/4 turn increments clockwise until the chain no longer falls off. Shift through every gear, using the barrel adjusters to fine tune each transition. The barrel adjuster for the front derailleur is located on the front shifter where the cable comes out of the shifter. Clockwise will loosen the cable tension and direct the chain closer to the frame while counter-clockwise will tighten the cable tension and direct the chain away from the frame.

Page 46

Dual Suspension

There must be enough tension on the spring to hold the spring plate in place. Failure to do this may cause the mechanism to fail. Failure to maintain, check and properly adjust the suspension system may result in suspension malfunction, which can cause you to lose control and fall. Changing suspension adjustment can change the handling and braking characteristics of you bicycle. Never change suspension adjustment unless you are thoroughly familiar with the suspension system, manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations, and always check for changes in the performance of your bicycle by taking a careful test ride in a hazard free area. If your bike has suspension equipment, the increased speed you may develop also increases your risk. When braking, the front of a suspended bike dips. You could lose control and fall if your skill is not up to handling this system. Get to know how to handle your suspension system safely before trying any downhill or very fast biking.

Dual Suspension bikes (DS) are equipped with a front fork as well as a rear suspension generally located below the seat. The piston works in conjunction with a spring to allow the bike to rotate on a pivot point. Ensure all attaching hardware is secured and there is no lateral movement of the rear triangle. The amount of Rear Suspension travel can be adjusted by turning the adjusting plate. Clockwise will increase spring tension and decrease travel, while turning counter-clockwise will decrease spring tension and increase travel. There are many different types of suspension systems-too many to deal with individually in this manual.

Anchor bolt

Spring plate

Spring

Adjusting plate

Piston

Page 47

Rear Pivots

1. Attaching Bolt

2. Bushing

3. Shaft

1. Pivot Assembly

2. Bottom Bracket Cup & Lockring

3. Rear Triangle

The pivot assembly is a simple mechanism that allows the rear triangle to move up and down in combination with a rear suspension. Size, shape, and compounds will vary between models; however, operating principles are the same. A shaft will pivot inside of two bushings secured in place with bolts. Pivots should be kept clean and free from grime and should be disassembled and regreased at least once every riding season. Please note the drive side crank arm must be removed from the spindle before attempting to work on the pivot. Some models have two, small (2.5mm) Allen bolts on the underside of the bottom bracket shell. These must be removed before attempting to disassemble the pivot. After disassembling and cleaning, the shaft of the pivot assembly should be lightly coated with lithium-based grease, as well as the bushings and the threads of the attaching hardware. Please remember: Never use WD-40 to grease components. It is a degreaser that will not provide required lubrication and has a tendency to attract dust.

Page 48

Tighten both rear wheel axle nuts or the quick release mechanism securely. Failure to do this may cause the rear wheel to dislodge from the frame dropouts resulting in serious damage or injury.

Reflectors

Attach the white reflector to the front reflector bracket and secure to the fork using the hardware provided. Attach the red reflector to the rear reflector bracket and secure to the frame or seat post, depending on the bracket style, with the hardware provided.

Saddle Bag

Reflector

Frame Bag

Reflector

Accessories

If your bike is supplied with a water bottle and cage, attach the cage to the bicycle using the Allen bolts provided. Most bikes come equipped with a saddle bag or frame bag. The saddle bag installs under the seat with the zipper facing the rear wheel. Undo the straps that wrap around the bag, thread them through the rails underneath the seat and secure around the bag. The smaller strap wraps around the seat post. Frame bags install at the apex of the top and seat tubes. Secure the straps around each tube. NOTE: The frame bag straps must not bind the cables. The straps must go around the frame only.

Reflector

Water bottle and cage

Other: Some 20” and 24” model bicycles come with a rear derailleur guard to protect the rear derailleur from damage. To install, remove the the rear wheel axle nut on the drive side, install the rear derailleur guard over the axle with the U-shaped guard pointing down, and retighten the axle nut. The guard will sit between the frame and the axle nut.

Page 49

Final Check

Never inflate a tire beyond the maximum pressure marked on the tire’s sidewall. Exceeding the recommended pressure may blow the tire off the rim, which could cause damage to the bicycle and injury to the rider and bystanders.

-After all adjustments have been made, shift through every gear several times at varying speeds. This will ensure all your adjustments are correct and will allow you to pinpoint any trouble areas. If you encounter any problems, refer to the appropriate section and make any necessary adjustments.

- Check the tire pressure and inflate each tube to the recommended psi as stated on the sidewall of the tire.

- Check that the kickstand operates smoothly and the kickstand bolt is secured tightly.

- Finally, examine the bicycle. Make sure all accessories are attached and all quick releases, nuts and bolts have been tightened securely.

- Correct maintenance of your bicycle will ensure many years of happy riding. Service your bicycle regularly by referring to the relevant sections of this manual, OR take it to a professional bicycle shop.

Remember: Always wear a helmet and obey all traffic laws.

Page 50

Stem Bolt

Minimum

Insertion Mark

Head Tube

Foreword: Assembling a bicycle is an important responsibility. Proper assembly not only gives the rider more enjoyment of the bicycle; it also offers an important measure of safety.

Stem Cap Binder Bolts

SINGLE SPEED & BMX

Includes 16" and 20" BMX Bikes Assembly is the same for boy’s and girl’s bikes.

Stem Wedge

Getting Started

Note: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style components than the ones illustrated.

Handlebars

Remove the protective cap from the stem wedge and loosen the stem bolt using the 6mm Allen key hexagonal bolt instead of an Allen key bolt. Place the handlebar stem into the head tube, observing the minimum insertion mark on the handlebar stem and ensuring that all cables are free of tangles. Check that the fork and the handlebar are facing forward, and that they are properly aligned with the front wheel. Tighten the stem bolt. Rotate the handlebar to the desired position and tighten the Stem Cap Binder Bolts securely using a 5mm Allen key. You must alternate tightening each bolt untilall bolts are secured andthe stem plate evenly clamps the handlebar.

The handlebar must be inserted so that the minimum insertion mark cannot be seen.

Warning: Over tightening the stem bolt or headset assembly may

cause damage to the bicycle and/or injury to the rider.

. Some models may use a 13mm

Page 51

Seat

Loosen nut on the seat clamp and add 3 or 4 drops of oil onto the threads of the bolt. Place the smaller end of the seat post into the seat clamp until it stops with the bolt to the rear of the seat post. Thread the nut on the seat clamp loosely . Insert the larger end of the seat post into the seat tube of the bicycle frame observing the minimum insertion mark on the seat post. Position the top surface of the seat parallel with the ground. The serrations on the seat clamp must mesh completely with the seat frame serrations, push the front of the seat up and down to align the serrations. Securely tighten the seat clamp. Securely tighten the bolts on the seat post clamp. Turn the bicycle upside down and rest it on the seat and handlebars.

The seat pillar must be inserted so that the minimum insertion mark cannot be seen.

Pedals & Crank Set

Look for the letters “R” for right, and “L” for left, stamped on each pedal spindle. Start each pedal spindle by hand to avoid stripping the threads. Tighten with a 15mm narrow open ended wrench. Note that the right hand pedal attaches to the chainwheel side crank arm with a right-hand (clockwise) thread. The left pedal attaches to the other crank arm and has a left-hand (counter-clockwise) thread. It is very important that you check the crank set for correct adjustment and tightness before riding your bicycle. New cranks may become loose with initial use, refer to p. 73-76 for proper crank set adjustment and maintenance. Once the pedals have been attached, check that the crank arm rotates smoothly and that there is no lateral movement.

Attachment of an incorrect pedal into a crank arm will cause irreparable damage.

Page 52

Front Brake

Determine which type of brake your bike is equipped with and refer to the appropriate assembly instructions. For more information on brake adjustment and maintenance, refer to p. 68-71. Agreater force is required to activate the rear brake due to longer cable length. It is advisable to mount the rear brake on the side of the stronger hand. It is important to become familiar with the use of hand brakes. When properly adjusted, hand brakes are an efficient braking system. Keep the rim and brake shoes clean and free from wax, lubricants and dirt at all times. Keep brakes properly adjusted and in good working

condition at all times.

Open the brake lever and place the nipple end of the short brake cable into the lever, then close the lever. Secure the ferrule against the lever using the cable adjusting barrel.

Brake Lever

Nipple

Ferrule

Grip Handlebar

Cable

Adjusting

Barrel

Axle Nut

Axle

Hub

Cone Nuts

Fork Drop Out

Retaining Washer

Front Wheel

1. Make sure the brakes are loose enough to allow the wheel to pass through the brake pads easily.

2. Place wheel into fork drop outs.

3. Install retaining washers with raised lip pointed towards the fork, and insert into the small hole of the fork blade.

4. Install axle nut and tighten. Make sure the wheel is centered between the fork blades.

5. Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered and clears the brake shoes. Tighten the brakes if necessary.

6. Turn the bicycle upright using the kickstand to support it.

It is very important to check the front wheel connection to the bicycle. Failure to properly tighten may cause the front wheel to dislodge.

Page 53

Side Pull Brake

1. Install the cable into the cable carrier.

2. Set the cable onto the straddle holder.

Cantilever Brakes

Side Pull Brakes

Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Link Wire

If fitted with cantilever type brakes, insert the brake cable into the link wire lead, and notch the cable end into the slot of the left brake arm. Loosen the anchor bolt on the right brake arm and slide the brake cable under the tabbed washer. Squeeze both brake arms together so the brake shoes hit the rim, pull all slack out of the brake cable, and tighten the anchor bolt. With the cable fitted, the straddle holder should sit 10-20mm above the reflector bracket. Adjust the brake shoes using a 10mm wrench so that they are parallel with the rim and are positioned 1-2mm away from the rim. Several adjustments may be necessary to achieve the correct brake position.

When assembling or adjusting the brakes, make sure the cable anchor is tight. Failure to securely tighten the nut could result in brake failure and personal injury.

Cable

Adjusting

Barrel

Center Bolt

Cable

Anchor

Nut

Brake Shoe

Fixing Nut

in Back

Brake Arm

Cable End

Loosen the cable anchor nut and thread the brake cable through it. Tighten the nut by hand until it holds the cable in place. Squeeze the brake arms together against the rim of the wheel. Loosen the nuts on the brake shoes and turn until they match the angle of the rim. Tighten the nuts securely. Pull down on the end of the brake cable with pliers, hold taut and securely tighten the cable anchor nut. Spin the wheel, the brake shoes should not contact the rim at any point and should be an equal distance from the rim on both sides. Make sure all nuts and bolts are securely tightened. Test the brake levers 20-25 times to take care of any initial cable stretch. Be sure to tightly secure the brake fixing nut behind the fork.

Page 54

3. Temporarily tighten the cable so

Cut off any unnecessary cable, attach an end cap, and hook it onto the notched part of the nut which secures the shoe.

Cable Casing Holder

Spring tension adjustment screw

4. Turn the spring tension adjustment screw so that the link wire comes to a position directly below the cable casing holder.

that the link wire is at the position in the illustration.

Link Wire

5. Secure one of the shoes at a time. The adjustment of the shoe clearance is not necessary at this time. Shoe fixing nut tightening torque:

7.84 - 8.82 Nm (70 - 78 in. lbs.)

Touching

Cable Anchor Bolt

1 mm

10 mm wrench 5 mm Allen key

6. If balance adjustment is necessary, adjust with the spring tension adjustment screw.

End cap

Page 55

V - Brake

If fitted with V-Brakes, insert the brake body into the center spring hole in the frame mounting boss, and then secure the brake body to the frame with the link fixing bolt.

While holding the shoe against the rim, adjust the amount of shoe protrusion by interchanging the position of the B washers (i.e. 6 mm or 3 mm) so that dimension Ais kept at 39 mm or more.

5 mm Allen key

Washer

Link

fixing

bolt

Stopper pin

Spring hole

39 mm or more

3 mm washer B 6 mm washer B

Shoe fixing nut

Washer A

Shoe fixing link

Washer

Washer A

Page 56

While holding the shoe against

the rim, tighten the shoe fixing nut.

Adjust the balance with the spring

tension adjustment screws.

1 mm

Pass the inner cable through the inner

5 mm Allen key

cable lead. Set the cable with a clearance of 1mm between each brake pad and the rim, tighten the cable fixing bolt.

5 mm Allen key

B C

B + C = 2 mm

1 mm 1 mm

Spring tension adjustment screw

Depress the brake lever about 10 times as

Spring tension adjustment screw

far as the grip and check that everything is operating correctly and that the shoe clearance is correct before using the brakes.

Depress about 10 times

Page 57

Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Straddle Cable

Straddle Cable Brake

Brake Cable

Straddle Hanger

Straddle Cable

Cable

Anchor

Caliper Arm

Pinch Bolt

Pivot

Brake pad aligned with the rim surface Pad and rim should be parallel.

1- 2 mm

Direction of rim

rotation

0.5 - 1.0 mm

Page 58

Check your Brakes

Press each brake lever to make sure that there is no binding and that the brake pads press hard enough on the rims to stop the bike. The brake pads should be adjusted so they are 1mm to 2 mm away from the rim when the brakes are not applied. Brake pads should be centered on the rim and the rear portion of each brake pad should be about 0.5 - 1.0 mm farther from the rim than the front portion of the brake pad.

Do not ride the bicycle until the brakes are functioning properly. To test, apply the brakes while trying to push the bike forward to make sure they will stop the bicycle.

Training Wheels

1. Position a washer on the shoulder bolt. Insert the shoulder bolt through the wheel. Follow with another

Stabilizer Bracket

Axle Nut

Brace

Training Wheel

Washer

Shoulder Bolt

Nut

Star Washer

Nut

Washer

flat washer then completely thread a nut on the shoulder bolt.

2. Insert the shoulder bolt through the brace. Set the “star” washer on the shoulder bolt. Lock into place by screwing another nut onto the shoulder bolt.

3. Remove the nut and washer from the rear wheel axle. Align stabilizer bracket onto the brace. Align brace and stabilizer bracket on the wheel axle. Replace the axle nut and washer, secure tightly. The elongated hole on the brace allows for raising or lowering the training wheel to the proper height.

Page 59

Rotors

Some freestyle BMX bicycles come equipped with a detangler system that will allow the handlebar to spin 360-degrees without binding the cables. It is very important that this system is adjusted correctly. Installation should only be done by a qualified bicycle mechanic with the correct tools.

Upper Cable

1. First connect the barrel end of the upper cable to the rear brake lever. Make sure the long cable casing is on top of the short cable casing; otherwise, the upper cable will have a twist in it.

2. Route the upper cable through the handlebars (below the crossbar) with the short cable casing on the same side as the rear brake lever.

3. Connect the upper cable to the upper plate by passing the football ends of the upper cable through the threaded holes in the upper plate and connecting them to the bearing.

4. Screw the adjusting barrels into the upper plate. Don’t tighten the locknuts at this time.

Lower Cable

1. Slide the cable casing through the cable guide on the frame.

2. Connect the lower cable to the lower plate by passing the football ends of the lower cable through the threaded holes in the lower plate and connecting them to the bearing.

3. Screw the adjusting barrels into the lower plate. Don’t tighten the locknuts at this time.

4. Connect the lower cable to the rear brake. Don’t adjust the rear brake at this time. NOTE: Check to make sure all 11 cable casing ends on the upper and lower cables are seated correctly, and that the spring tension of the rear brake is pulling the bearing down.

Adjustment

1. Screw the cable adjusters on the rear brake lever and the upper cable splitter all the way in.

2. Screw the adjusting barrels in the upper plate in (or out)

to set the bearing for maximum travel. The bearing should be as far down as it can go without resting on the lower plate or the adjusting barrels screwed into the lower plate.

3. Use the adjusting barrels that are screwed into the upper plate to make the bearing parallel to the upper plate. Use a 10mm wrench to tighten the locknut on the left adjusting barrel of the upper cable. Leave the right adjusting barrel loose.

4. Screw the lower cable adjusting barrel into (or out of) the lower plate until they are as close to the bearing as they can get without touching it.

5. Screw the cable adjuster on the upper cable splitter out until all slack is removed from the upper cable. Then screw the cable adjuster out one more turn to raise the bearing an additional 1mm away from the lower cable adjusting barrels.

CAUTION: Don’t screw the cable adjuster on the upper cable splitter out more than 8mm. Use the cable adjuster on the rear brake lever if more adjustment is needed.

6. Check for bearing flop by placing the handlebars in the normal riding position, then quickly rotate the handlebars back and forth. Perform the following steps to eliminate bearing flop. NOTE: The bearing should never be allowed to rest on the lower plate or lower cable adjusting barrels. a) Screw the lower cable adjusting barrels out of (or

into) the lower plate until all bearing flop is eliminated.

b) Tighten the locknut of the right adjusting barrel on the

lower cable.

c) Rotate the handlebars 180 degrees and recheck for

bearing flop. If there is any bearing flop, use the “loose” adjusting barrels on the upper and lower cable to remove it.

d) Repeat steps (6a) and (6c) until the handlebars can be

rotated 360 degrees without any bearing flop.

7. Finish adjusting the rear brakes.

Page 60

Failure to adjust correctly may result in loss of braking power and personal injury.

Barrel End

Adjusting Barrel

Locknut

Keyed Washer

Locknut

Adjusting Barrel

37mm + or - 1mm

Set for Max. Travel

Minimum 1mm (1/32”)

Single Cable Casing

Cable Adjuster

Cable Splitter

Upper Cable (long casing)

Upper Cable (short casing)

Upper Plate

Bearing

Football Ends

Lower Plate

Lower Cable

Page 61

Rear

Chainguard

Reflector (Red)

Pads

Front

Reflector

(White)

Final Check

Install any additional parts that are supplied with your bike. NOTE: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style components than the ones illustrated. Reflectors: Attach the white reflector to the front bracket and the red reflector to the rear bracket using an 8mm wrench or a Phillips head screwdriver. Attach the brackets to the bicycle using the hardware provided. For some models, the front reflector bracket will be mounted on the front brake assembly bolt that fits through the fork. It is important to make sure all connections are tightened securely and that the reflectors are properly angled. Pads: If your bike is supplied with pads, wrap the foam inner cushion around the appropriate bar. Place the outer cover over the inner cushion and press the velcro together securely. Turn the pad so the velcro faces the ground. Chainguards: If not already attached, attach the chainguard to the bicycle frame using the clamps provided. Secure in place making sure the guard does not bind or get caught on the chain. Tire Pressure: Check tire pressure, inflate to the range recommended on the tire sidewalls. Pegs: There are many different types of pegs-too many to deal with individually in this manual. Please see your dealer for specific information regarding peg installation.

Before riding, ensure all nuts, bolts and fittings on the bicycle have been correctly tightened.

Page 62

Correct routine maintenance of your new bike will ensure:

Every time you ride your bicycle, its condition changes. The more you ride, the more frequently maintenance will be required. We recommend you spend a little time on regular maintenance tasks. The following schedules are a useful guide and by referring to Part 5 of this manual, you should be able to accomplish most tasks. If you require assistance, we recommend you see a bicycle specialist.

Schedule 1 - Lubrication

Frequency

Weekly

PART 4 - SERVICING

Monthly

Smooth running - Longer lasting components - Safer riding - Lower running costs

Component

chain derailleur wheels derailleurs brake calipers brake levers shift levers

Lubricant

chain lube or light oil chain lube or light oil oil oil oil lithium based grease

How to Lubricate

brush on or squirt brush on or squirt oil can 3 drops from oil can 2 drops from oil can disassemble

Every Six Months

Yearly

Note: The frequency of maintenance should increase with lots of usage and use in wet or dusty conditions. Do not over lubricate - remove excess lubricant to prevent dirt build up. Never use a degreaser to lubricate your chain (WD-40)

freewheel brake cables bottom bracket pedals derailleur cables wheel bearings headset seat pillar

oil lithium based grease lithium based grease lithium based grease lithium based grease lithium based grease lithium based grease lithium based grease

2 squirts from oil can disassemble disassemble disassemble disassemble disassemble disassemble disassemble

Page 63

Frequency

Schedule 2 - Service Checklist

Before every ride

After every ride Weekly Monthly

Every Six Months

Yearly

Task

Check tire pressure Check brake operation Check wheels for loose spokes Make sure nothing is loose Quick wipe down with damp cloth Lubrication as per schedule 1 Lubrication as per schedule 1 Check derailleur adjustment Check brake adjustment Check brake and gear cable adjustment Check tire wear and pressure Check wheels are true and spokes tight Check hub, head set and crank bearings for looseness Check pedals are tight Check handlebars are tight Check seat and seat post are tight and comfortably adjusted Check frame and fork for trueness Check all nuts and bolts are tight Lubrication as per schedule 1 Check all points as per monthly service Check and replace brake pads, if required Check chain for excess play or wear Lubrication as per schedule 1

Page Reference

66-69

54 54

16-17

51 79-81 66-69 61,66

56,62,73

70 58-59

Page 64

Tools Required

1. Open ended wrench or ring wrenches: 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm

2. Open end or pedal wrench 15mm

3. Allen key wrenches: 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm

4. Adjustable wrench

5. Standard flat head screwdriver

6. Standard Phillips head screwdriver

7. Standard slip joint pliers

8. Tire pump

9Tube repair kit

10. Tire levers

Travel Tools

1. Spare Tube

2. Patch kit

3. Pump

4. Tire levers

5. Multi-tool

6. Change (phone call)

Page 65

WHEELS AND TIRES

Wheel Inspection

It is most important that wheels are kept in top condition. Properly maintaining your bicycle's wheels will help braking performance and stability when riding. Be aware of the following potential problems:

•Dirty or greasy rims: Caution: These can render your brakes ineffective. Do not clean them with oily or greasy materials. When cleaning, use a clean rag or wash with soapy water, rinse and air dry. Don't ride while they're wet. When lubricating your bicycle, don't get oil on the rim braking surfaces.

•Wheels not straight: Lift each wheel off the ground and spin them to see if they are crooked or out of round. If wheels are not straight, they will need to be adjusted. This is quite difficult and is best left to a bicycle specialist.

•Broken or loose spokes: Check that all spokes are tight and that none are missing or damaged. Caution: Such damage can result in severe instability and possibly an accident if not corrected. Again, spoke repairs are best handled by a specialist.

•Loose hub bearings: Lift each wheel off the ground and try to move the wheel from side to side. Caution: If there is movement between the axle and the hub, do not ride the bicycle. Adjustment is required.

•Axle nuts: Check that these are tight before each ride.

PART

DETAILED

MAINTENANCE

•Quick release: Check that these are set to the closed position and are properly tensioned before each ride. Caution: Maintain the closed position and the correct adjustment. Failure to do so may result in serious injury.

Page 66

Tire Inspection

Tires must be maintained properly to ensure road holding and stability. Check the following areas: Inflation: Ensure tires are inflated to the pressure indicated on the tire sidewalls. It is better to use a tire gauge

and a hand pump than a service station pump. Caution: If inflating tires with a service station pump, take care that sudden over inflation does not cause tire to blow up.

Bead Seating: When inflating or refitting tire, make sure that the bead is properly seated in the rim.

Tread: Check that the tread shows no signs of excessive wear or flat spots, and that there are no cuts or other damage.

Caution: Excessively worn or damaged tires should be replaced.

Valves: Make sure valve caps are fitted and that valves are free from dirt. Aslow leak caused by the entry of the dirt can

lead to a flat tire, and possibly a dangerous situation.

Recommended Tire pressures:

The recommended pressure molded on the sidewall of your bicycle tires should match the following chart. Use this as a general guide.

BMX

35-50 p.s.i.

MTB

40-65 p.s.i.

Road Touring

Road Racing

Hybrid/Crossbike

70-90 p.s.i. 110-125 p.s.i. 60-100 p.s.i.

Page 67

Hub Bearing Adjustment

Lock Washer

Axle

Lock Nut

Hub Body

Ball Bearings

Bearing

Cone

Washer

Axle Nut

When checked, the hub bearings of either wheel will require adjustment if there is any more than slight side play.

1. Check to make sure neither locknut is loose.

2. To adjust, remove wheel from bicycle and loosen the locknut on one side of the hub while holding the bearing cone on the same side with a flat open end wrench.

3. Rotate the adjusting cone as needed to eliminate free play.

4. Re-tighten the locknut while holding the adjusting cone in position.

5. Re-check that the wheel can turn freely without excessive side play.

How To Fix a Flat Tire

If you need to repair a tire, follow these steps:

Push tire bead into the center

of the rim.

1. Remove the wheel from the bicycle.

2. Deflate the tire completely via the valve. Loosen the tire bead by pushing it inward all the way around.

3. Press one side of the tire bead up over the edge of the rim. Note: Use tire levers, not a screwdriver, otherwise you may damage the rim.

4. Remove the tube, leaving the tire on the rim.

5. Locate the leaks and patch using a tube repair kit, carefully following the instructions, or replace the tube. Note: Ensure that the replacement tube size matches the size stated on the tire sidewall and that the valve is the correct type for your bicycle.

Page 68

6. Match the position of the leak in the tube with the tire to locate the possible cause and mark the location on the tire.

7. Remove the tire completely and inspect for a nail, glass, etc. and remove if located. Also inspect the inside of the rim to ensure there are no protruding spokes, rust or other potential causes. Replace the rim tape which covers the spoke ends, if damaged.

8. Remount one side of the tire onto the rim.

Remove tire bead from the rim.

Pull tire back onto the rim.

9. Using a hand pump, inflate the tube just enough to give it some shape.

10. Place the valve stem through the hole in the rim and work the tube into the tire. Note: Do not let it twist.

11. Using your hands only, remount the other side of the tire by pushing the edge toward the center of the rim. Start on either side of the valve and work around the rim.

12. Before the tire is completely mounted, push the valve up into the rim to make sure the tire can sit squarely in position.

13. Fit the rest of the tire, rolling the last, most difficult part on using your thumbs. Note: Avoid using tire levers as these can easily puncture the tube or damage the tire.

14. Check that the tube is not caught between the rim and the tire bead at any point.

15. Using a hand pump, inflate the tube until the tire begins to take shape, and check that the tire bead is evenly seated all the way around the rim. When properly seated, fully inflate the tire to the pressure marked on the sidewall. Use a tire air pressure gauge to check.

16. Replace the wheel into the frame checking that all gears, brakes and quick release levers are properly adjusted.

Page 69

HANDLEBARS AND STEM

Handlebar Clamp Bolts

Handlebar Binder Bolt

Stem Bolt

Max. Height/

Min. Insertion Mark

Stem Bolt Wedge

Max. Height/ Minimum Insertion Mark

Warning: Over tightening the stem bolt or headset assembly may cause damage to the bicycle and/or injury to the rider.

Handlebar Stem

The handlebar stem fits into the steering column and is held firm by the action of a binder bolt and expander wedge which, when tightened, binds with the inside of the fork steerer tube. When removing the stem, loosen the stem bolt two or three turns, then give it a tap to loosen the wedge inside. Lubricate by first wiping off any old grease and grime, then applying a thin film of grease to the part, including the wedge, that will be inserted into the frame. The height of the handlebar can be adjusted to suit your comfort preference. If the stem is removed from the steering column, you will notice a mark about 65mm up from the bottom with the words “max. height” or “minimum insertion".

Never ride a bicycle if the stem has been raised so that the max. height/ minimum insertion line can be seen.

Page 70

When re-fitting the stem, make sure the handlebars are correctly aligned and tightened using the appropriate hex wrench or allen key.

Do not over tighten. Test the security of the handlebar within the stem, and the stem

within the fork steerer tube, by clamping the front wheel between your knees and trying to move the handlebar up and down, and from side to side. The handlebar should not move when applying turning pressure.

Handlebars

The exact positioning of the handlebar is a matter of personal comfort. For MTB bicycles, the bar should be approximately horizontal, with the ends pointing back and slightly up. On BMX bicycles, the handlebar should remain in an approximately upright position but can be angled back or forward slightly for comfort. On MTB and racing style bicycles, the handlebar is usually tightened in the stem by a single allen key bolt or hexagonal bolt. On BMX style bicycles there may be four clamping bolts.

Make sure, when setting the handlebars in the fork, that the curved rake of the fork is angled to the front of the bicycle. Please note that if you need to replace the forks in your bicycle at any time, the replacement forks must have the same rake and the same tube inner diameter as those originally fitted to the bicycle.

Never ride unless the handlebar clamping mechanism has been securely tightened.

Grip

Handlebar

MTB Handlebar Assembly

Stem Bolt

Handlebar Stem

Stem Bolt Wedge

Make sure

handlebars and

fork are facing

forward

Note, curved rake of

fork faces forward

Page 71

GRIP SHIFTERS

Grip 7/8” Plastic Washers

Barrel Adjuster Cable

Grip Shift - Installation

1. Slide front Grip Shift assembly over left side of handlebar leaving proper clearance for handlebar grip. If necessary, move the brake lever to accommodate Grip Shift and handlebar grip.

2. Rotate assembly until cable exits beneath brake lever with adequate clearance for brake lever movement.

3. Firmly tighten recessed clamp screw. Installation torque should be 20 in.-lbs.

4. Slide the two 7/8” plastic washers over handlebar. The washers prevent the grip from interfering with Grip Shift rotation.

5. Slide handlebar grip over handlebar. Thread the cable inner wire through cable housings and frame, and attach to

6. Adjust indexing.

7. Slide rear Grip Shift over right side of handlebar and repeat steps 2 - 6.

8. Actuate front and rear brake levers to be certain of proper operation. If Grip Shift interferes with brake lever movement,

derailleur. Make sure that the cable is in the V groove at the derailleur attachment bolt. If trimming the cable housing is necessary, be sure to replace the housing end cap.

rotate brake lever or Grip Shift. Check for proper brake lever operation again.

Page 72

Cables and Cable Housing

Cables and housing are one of the most overlooked parts on the bicycle. The first indication that your cables and housing need to be replaced is an increased amount of pressure needed to operate the brakes or shifters. Before every ride, check that there are no kinks or frays in the cables and housing. Also check that the housing is seated properly into each cable stop of the bicycle. It is recommended that the cables and housing are replaced at least every riding season to prolong the life of your bike.

kink

fray

good cable

Do not ride a bicycle that is not operating properly.

Page 73

HEADSET

Inspection

The headset bearing adjustment should be checked every month. This is important as it is the headset which locks the fork into the frame, and if loose, can cause damage or result in an accident. While standing over the frame top tube with both feet on the ground, apply the front brake firmly and rock the bicycle back and forth; if you detect any looseness in the headset, it will need adjustment. Check that the headset is not over tight by slowly rotating the fork to the right and left. If the fork tends to stick or bind at any point, the bearings are too tight.

Note: If your bike is equipped with a threadless headset, please see a qualified specialist for repairs and adjustments.

Adjustment

Loosen the headset top locknut or remove it completely along with the reflector bracket, if fitted. Turn the adjusting cup clockwise until finger tight. Replace the lock washer or reflector bracket and re-tighten the lock nut using a suitable wrench.

Note: Do not over tighten or bearing damage will occur.

Always make sure that the headset is properly adjusted and that the headset locknut is fully tightened before riding.

Lock Nut

Lock Washer

Adjusting Cup/Cone

Ball Retainer

Top Head Cup

Bottom Head Cup

Ball Retainer

Crown Race

Warning: Over tightening the stem bolt or headset assembly may cause damage to the bicycle and/or injury to the rider.

Standard Headset

Page 74

Sleeves

Seal

Slider

Elastomer

Top-out

Bottom-out

Elastomer

Skewer

Through-Shaft

Drop-Out

Suspension Fork

SUSPENSION FORK

Some fork models differ from the one illustrated. Those models are not adjustable and require no maintenance other than keeping it free from dirt and grime.

RST - Regular Maintenance

The following maintenance should be performed every month (if riding off-road), or whenever you feel performance is deteriorating.

1. With the fork apart, thoroughly clean all parts.

2. Apply a thin coat of grease to the upper tubes, coil springs, and all internal bushings.

RST - Reassembly

1. Slide upper tubes into lower tubes.

2. Firmly hold lower tube and turn clockwise until it will not turn anymore.

3. Align the brake arch mounts on both lower tubes and install brake arch.

4. Tighten brake arch bolts to 70-80 in.-lbs (8-9.2 Nm).

Check before each ride:

1. Make sure the headset is properly secured.

2. Make sure the exposed portions of the upper tubes are clean.

3. Make sure the quick releases are properly secured.

4. Make sure the front brake cable housing is properly seated into the brake cable stop.

5. Check tire clearance and clearance between the top of the front brake straddle cable carrier and the bottom of the cable stop. Make sure the front brake cable is routed to the brake cable stop located on the brake arch. Do not route the cable through the stem or any other mounts or cable stops.

Page 75

SADDLE AND SEAT POST

Inspection

The seat fixing bolt and the seat post binder bolt should be checked for tightness and adjustment every month. On removing the seat post from the frame, you will notice a mark about 65mm up from the bottom with the words “max. height” or “minimum insertion”.

To avoid damage to either the seat post, the frame or possibly the rider, a minimum of 65mm of the seat post must always remain in the frame.

Lubrication

Remove the seat post from the frame and wipe off any grease, rust or dirt. Then apply a thin film of new grease to the part that will be inserted into the frame. Re-insert, adjust and tighten the seat post in the frame.

Seat Fixing Bolt

Micro Adjustable Seat Post

Seat Clamp Nut

Standard Seat Post

Seat Post

Binder Bolt

Page 76

Adjustment

As mentioned in Part 2, the seat can be adjusted in height, angle and distance from the handlebars to suit the individual rider. Saddle angle is a matter of personal preference but the most comfortable position will usually be found when the top of the seat is almost parallel to the ground, or slightly raised at the front.

The saddle can also be adjusted by sliding it forward or back along the mounting rails to obtain the most comfortable reach to the handlebars. When fitting, position the seat post into the clamp under the seat and place it in the frame without tightening. Adjust it to the desired angle and position, and tighten the clamping mechanism.

There are two types of seat clamps commonly in use. The most common employs a steel clamp with hexagonal nuts on either side to tighten. The other type, known as a micro-adjustable clamp, uses a single vertically mounted Allen head fixing bolt to tighten. After fixing the seat to the desired position on the post, adjust the height to the required level and tighten the binder bolt.

Note that the type of binder bolt may be either a hexagonal bolt, an Allen head bolt, or a quick release mechanism. The operation of a seat post quick release mechanism is the same as for quick release hubs. Refer to p.22. Test the security by grasping the seat and trying to turn it sideways. If it moves, you will need to further tighten the binder bolt. Note: Remember that the minimum insertion mark must remain inside the frame assembly.

Page 77

BRAKES

The correct adjustment and operation of your bicycle's brakes is extremely important for safe operation. Brakes should be checked for effective operation before every ride. Frequent checking of adjustment is necessary as the control cables will stretch and the brake pads will become worn with use.

Never ride a bicycle unless the brakes are functioning properly.

There are two types of hand operated bicycle brakes in common use: sidepull calipers and cantilever calipers. Both utilize a handlebar mounted lever which controls a cable to operate the brake. Sidepull brakes are mounted to the frame or fork via a single pivot point. Cantilever brakes use two brake pivot arms, each mounted on separate pivots on either side of the frame/fork.

Inspection

Brake levers should be checked for tightness at least every three months. They should be set in a comfortable position within easy reach of the rider's hands, and must not be able to move on the handlebar. Some brake levers make use of a reach adjustment screw, which can be altered to the distance between the handlebar grip and the lever, as required. The brake pads should be checked for correct positioning and tightness before every ride, and the various bolts and nuts at least every three months. Squeeze each brake lever to make sure they operate freely and that the brake pads press hard enough on the rims to stop the bike. There should be about 1mm 2mm clearance between each pad and the rim when the brakes are not applied. The brake pads must be properly centered for maximum contact with the rim. Replace the brake pads if they are over worn so that the grooves or pattern cannot be seen. The brake cable wires should be checked for kinks, rust, broken strands or frayed ends. The outer casing should also be checked for kinks, stretched coils and other damage. If the cables are damaged, they should be replaced.

Cantilever Brakes

Brake Cable

Brake Arm

Straddle Cable

Page 78

Some brakes have a quick release mechanism to allow easier wheel removal. Whenever you adjust the brakes,

Ensure the Brake fixing nut is secured tightly. Failure to do this may cause the Brake assembly to dislodge from the fork.

make sure the quick release mechanism is in the closed position.

Never ride unless the quick release is firmly locked in the closed position.

Brake Lever Brake Lever Housing

Cable Adjusting Barrel Center Bolt Brake Shoe

Side-Pull Brakes

Cable Adjusting Barrel

Lock nut

Fixing Nut

in Back

Cable

Anchor

Bolt

Lubrication

The brake lever and brake caliper pivot points should be oiled with 2-3 drops of light oil at least every three months to ensure smooth operation and to reduce wear. Cables should be greased along their entire length, after removing them from their casings, at least every six months. Always grease new cables before fitting.

Adjustment - Sidepull Calipers

Minor brake adjustment can be made via the cable adjusting barrel, usually located at the upper cable arm. To adjust, squeeze the brake pads against the rim, loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster Brake pad clearance should be a maximum 2mm from the rim. When correct, re-tighten the lock nut. If the pads cannot be set close enough to the rim in this manner, you may have to adjust the cable length. Screw the barrel adjuster 3/4 of the way in, squeeze the pads against the rim, undo the cable anchor bolt and pull the cable through with pliers. Re-tighten the cable anchor bolt and apply full force to the brake lever to test, then fine tune using the barrel adjuster. If one pad is closer to the rim than the other, loosen the fixing nut at the back of the brake, apply the brake to hold it centered, and re-tighten the fixing nut.

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Some brakes have a special mechanism which enables you to set the clearance on either side of the rim using a screwdriver. Brake pads should finally be adjusted so that the leading edge of the pad makes first contact with the rim. Some brakes have special curved washers to allow this, but on less complex models it will be necessary to apply a little force to the pad and its mounting.

Adjustment - Cantilever Calipers

Minor brake adjustment can be made via the barrel cable adjusters which are located on each brake lever. To adjust, squeeze the brake pads against the rim, loosen the lock nut, and turn the adjuster to pull the brake pads closer to, or spread them away from the rim as required. Brake pad clearance should be a maximum 2mm from the rim. When correct, re-tighten the lock nut. If the pads cannot be set close enough to the rim in this manner

, you may have to adjust either the length of the straddle cable or the length of the brake cable.

If the brakes use a separate brake cable and straddle cable, adjust the straddle length by first screwing the barrel adjuster 3/4 of the way in, then loosening the straddle cable fixing bolt, then pulling or pushing the cable through the fixing bolt to adjust the length, and finally re-tightening the fixing bolt.

Check that the straddle bridge is in the middle of the cable to ensure even brake pad contact. Apply full force to the brake lever to test, then fine tune using the barrel adjuster.

To adjust the brake cable length, loosen the brake cable fixing bolt on the cable straddle bridge, adjust the length until the brake shoes are the correct distance from the rim, then re-tighten and test.

Parallel

Fully Adjustable Brake Shoes

Curved Adjustment Washer

2mm clearance

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4. Removing and Installing Bolt-On Wheels

a. Removing a Bolt-On Front Wheel

(1) Open up the brake shoes. (2) With a 15mm box wrench or a six inch adjustable wrench, loosen the two axle nuts. (3) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disengage it and go to step (4). If your front fork has an integral seondary retention device, loosen the axle nuts about six full turns; then go to step (4). (4) Raise the front wheel a few inches off the ground and tap the top of the wheel with the palm of your hand to knock the wheel out of the fork ends.

b. Installing a Bolt-On Front Wheel

(1) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork blades so that the axle seats firmly at the top of the slots which are at the tips of the fork blades. The axle nut washers should be on the outside, between the fork blade and the axle nut. If your bike has a clip-on type secondary retention device, engage it. (2) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the fork dropouts, and at the same time centering the wheel rim in the fork, use a six-inch adjustable wrench or a 15mm box wrench to tighten the axle nuts as tight as you can. (3) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake shoes.

c. Removing a Bolt-On Rear Wheel

(1) Open the rear brake shoes. (2) Shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest rear sprocket) and pull the derailleur body back with your right hand (3) With a 15mm box wrench or a six-inch adjustable wrench, loosen the two axle nuts. (4) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and, with the derailleur still pulled back, push the wheel forward and down until it comes out of the rear dropouts.

d. Installing a Bolt-On Rear Wheel

(1) Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost position and pull the derailleur body back with your right hand. (2) Put the chain on to the smallest sprocket. Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts and pull it all the way in to the dropouts. The axle nut washers should be on the outside, between the frame and the axle nut. (3) Tighten the axle nuts as tightly as you can, using a six-inch adjustable wrench or a 15mm box wrench. (4) Push the rear derailleur back into position. (5) Close the brake; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake shoes.

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B. Seatpost Quick Release

Many mountain bikes are equipped with quick-release seat post binders. The seatpost quick-release binder works exactly like the wheel quick-release. While a quick release looks like a long bolt with a lever on one end and a nut on the other, the quick release uses a cam action to firmly clamp the seat post.

WARNING: Riding with an improperly tightened seat post can allow the saddle to turn or move and cause you to lose control and fall. Therefore:

1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how to correctly clamp your seat post.

2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your seat post quick release.

3. Before you ride the bike, first check that the seatpost is securely clamped.

Adjusting the quick release mechanism

The action of the quick release cam squeezes the seat collar around the seat post to hold the seat post securely in place. The amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference between safe clamping force and unsafe clamping force.

CAUTION: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the seatpost securely. Holding the nut with one hand and turning the lever like a wing nut with the other hand until everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp the seatpost safely.

CAUTION: If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping your fingers around the fork blade for leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.

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C. Brakes

NOTE: For most effective braking, use both brakes and apply them simultaneously. WARNING: Sudden or excessive application of the front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars, causing serious injury or death.

1. How brakes work

It’s important to your safety that you instinctively know which brake lever controls which brake on your bike. In the U.S., bikes are required to be set up with the right brake lever controlling the rear brake, and the left lever controlling the front brake.

The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction between the brake surfaces -- usually the brake shoes and the wheel rim. To make sure that you have maximum friction available, keep your wheel rims and brake shoes clean and free of lubricants, waxes or polishes.

Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze the brake levers comfortably. If your hands are too small to operate the levers comfortably, consult your dealer before riding the bike. The lever reach may be adjustable; or you may need a different brake lever design.

Most brakes have some form of quick release mechanism to allow the brake shoes to clear the tire when a wheel is removed or reinstalled. When the brake quick release is in the open position, the brakes are inoperative. Ask your dealer to make sure that you understand the way the brake quick release works on your bike and check each time to make sure both brakes work correctly before you get on the bike.

Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop the bike. Maximum braking force for each wheel occurs at the point just before the wheel “locks up” (stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the tire skids, you actually lose most of your stopping force and all directional control. You need to practice slowing and stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel. The technique is called progressive brake modulation. Instead of jerking the brake lever to the position where you think you’ll generate appropriate braking force, squeeze the lever, progressively increasing the braking force. If you feel the wheel begin to lock up, release pressure just a little to keep the wheel rotating just short of lockup. It’s important to develop a feel for the amount of brake lever pressure required for each wheel at different speeds and on different surfaces. To better understand this, experiment a little by walking your bike and applying different amounts of pressure to each brake lever, until the wheel locks.

WARNING: Some bicycle brakes, such as linear-pull and disc brakes, are extremely powerful. You should take extra care in becoming familiar with these brakes and exercise particular care when using them. Applying these brakes too hard or too suddenly can lock up a wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall.

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When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow, but your body wants to continue at the speed at which it was going. This causes a transfer of weight to the front wheel (or, under heavy braking, around the front wheel hub, which could send you flying over the handlebars). A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake pressure before lockup; a wheel with less weight will lock up with less brake pressure. So, as you apply brakes and your weight shifts forward, you need to shift your body toward the rear of the bike, to transfer weight back on to the rear wheel; and at the same time, you need to both decrease rear braking and increase front braking force. This is even more important on steep descents, because descents shift weight forward. The keys to effective speed control and safe stopping are controlling wheel lockup and weight transfer. Practice braking and weight transfer techniques where there is no traffic or other hazards and distractions.

Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so the wheels have less cornering and braking traction and can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the brake shoes reduces their ability to grip. The way to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly to begin with.

2. Adjusting your brakes

If either brake lever on your bike fails the Mechanical Safety Check you can restore brake lever travel by turning the brake cable adjusting barrel counterclockwise, then lock the adjustment in by turning the barrel’s lock nut clockwise as far as it will go. If the lever still fails the Mechanical Safety Check, or you have any question about whether your brakes are working properly have your dealer check the brakes.

D. Shifting

Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain, an internal gear hub drivetrain or, in some special cases, a combination of the two.

1. Why all those gears?

You will get the greatest fitness benefit, produce the greatest sustained power and have the greatest endurance if you learn to spin the pedals at high revolutions per minute(called cadence) against low resistance. You will get the least fitness benefit and have the least endurance by pushing hard on the pedals against heavy resistance. The purpose of having multiple gears on a bicycle is to let you chose the gear that allows you to maintain your optimum cadence under the widest range of riding conditions. Depending on your fitness level and experience (the more fit, the higher the cadence), optimum cadence is between 60 and 90 pedal revolutions per minute.

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2. Shifting a derailleur drivetrain

If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-changing mechanism will consist of:

• a rear sprocket cluster, called a freewheel or freewheel cassette

• a rear derailleur

• usually a front derailleur

• one or two shifters

• one or two control cables

• one, two or three front sprockets called chainrings

• a drive chain The number of possible gear combinations (“speeds”) is the product of multiplying the number of sprockets at the rear of the drivetrain by the number of sprockets at the front (6 x 2 = 12, 6 x 3 = 18, 7 x 3 = 21 and so on).

a. Shifting Gears

There are many different types of shifter mechanisms, each preferred for specific types of application because of its ergonomic, performance and price characteristics. The designers of your bike have selected the shifter design which they believe will give the best results on your bike.

The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing. A downshift is a shift to a “slower” gear, one which is easier to pedal. An upshift is a shift to a “faster”, harder to pedal gear. What’s confusing is that what’s happening at the front derailleur is the opposite of what’s happening at the rear derailleur (for details, read the instructions on Shifting the Rear Derailleur and Shifting the Front Derailleur below). For example, you can select a gear which will make pedaling easier on a hill (make a downshift) in one of two ways: shift the chain down the gear “steps” to a smaller gear at the front, or up the gear “steps” to a larger gear at the rear. So, at the rear gear cluster, what is called a downshift looks like an upshift. The way to keep things straight is to remember that shifting the chain in towards the centerline of the bike is for accelerating and climbing and is called a downshift. Moving the chain out or away from the centerline of the bike is for speed and is called an upshift.

Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle derailleur system design requires that the drive chain be moving forward and be under at least some tension. A derailleur will shift only if you are pedaling forward.

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1) Shifting the Rear Derailleur

The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter. The function of the rear derailleur is to move the drive chain from one gear to another on the rear gear cluster, thereby changing gear drive ratios. The smaller sprockets on the gear cluster produce higher gear ratios. Pedaling in the higher gears requires greater pedaling effort, but takes you a greater distance with each revolution of the pedal cranks. The larger sprockets produce lower gear ratios. Using them requires less pedaling effort, but takes you a shorter distance with each pedal crank revolution. Moving the chain from a smaller sprocket of the gear cluster to a larger sprocket results in a downshift. Moving the chain from a larger sprocket to a smaller sprocket results in an upshift. In order for the derailleur to disengage the chain from one sprocket and move it on to another, the chain must be moving forward (i.e. the rider must be pedaling forward).

2) Shifting the Front Derailleur:

The front derailleur, which is controlled by the left shifter, shifts the chain between the larger and smaller chainrings. Shifting the chain onto a smaller chainring makes pedaling easier (a downshift). Shifting to a larger chainring makes pedaling harder (an upshift).

b) Which gear should I be in? The combination of largest rear, smallest front gears is for the steepest hills. The smallest rear, largest front combination is for the greatest speed. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the “starting gear” which is right for your level of ability -- a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling — and experiment with up-shifting and downshifting to get a feel for the different gear combinations. At first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or other traffic, until you’ve built up your confidence. Once you’ve learned the basics, experience will teach you which gear is appropriate for which condition, and practice will help you shift smoothly and at precisely the optimum moment.

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3. Shifting an internal gear hub drivetrain

If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the gear changing mechanism will consist of:

• a 3, 5, 7 or possibly 12 speed internal gear hub

• one, or sometimes two shifters

• one or two control cables

• one front sprockets called chainrings

• a drive chain

a) Shifting internal gear hub gears Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter of moving the shifter to the indicated position for the desired gear. After you have moved the shifter to the gear position of your choice, ease the pressure on the pedals for an instant to allow the hub to complete the shift. b) Which gear should I be in? The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills. The numerically largest gear (3, 5, 7 or 12, depending on the number of speeds of your hub) is for the greatest speed. Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to a harder, “faster” gear (like 2 or 3) is called an upshift. Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear to an easier, “slower” gear is called a downshift. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the “starting gear” for the conditions -- a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling -- and experiment with up-shifting and downshifting to get a feel for the different gears. At first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or other traffic, until you’ve built up your confidence. Once you’ve learned the basics, ex-perience will teach you which gear is appropriate for which condition, and prac tice will help you shift smoothly and at precisely the optimum moment.

E. Toeclips & Straps

Toeclips and straps are the traditional means which experienced cyclists use to keep their feet correctly positioned and engaged with the pedals. The toeclip positions the ball of the foot over the pedal spindle, which gives maximum pedaling power. The toe strap, when tightened, keeps the foot engaged throughout the rotation cycle of the pedal. While toeclips and straps give some benefit with any kind of shoe, they work most effectively with cycling shoes designed for use with toeclips. Your dealer can explain how toeclips and straps work.

WARNING: Getting into and out of pedals with toeclips and straps requires skill which can only be acquired with practice. Until it becomes a reflex action, the technique requires concentration which can distract the rider’s attention, causing you to lose control and fall. Practice the use of toeclips and straps where there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic. Keep the straps loose, and don’t tighten them until your technique and confidence in getting in and out of the pedals war-rants it. Never ride in traffic with your toe straps tight.

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F. Clipless (“step-in”) pedals

Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”) are the means most racers use to keep their feet securely in the correct position for maximum pedaling efficiency. They work like ski bindings ... a plate on the sole of the shoe clicks into a spring-loaded fixture on the pedal. Clipless pedals require shoes specifically designed for the make and model pedal being used. Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the rider to adjust the amount of force needed to engage or dis-engage the foot. Your dealer can show you how to make this adjustment.

WARNING: Clipless pedals are intended for use with shoes specifically made to fit them and are designed to firmly keep the foot engaged with the pedal. Practice is required to learn to engage and disengage the foot safely. Until engaging and disengaging the foot becomes a reflex action, the technique requires concentration which can distract the rider’s attention, causing the rider to lose control and fall. Practice engaging and disengaging clipless pedals in a place where there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic; and be sure that you follow the setup and service instructions and warnings which came with your pedals.

G. Tires and Tubes

1. Tires

Bicycle tires are available in many designs and specifications, ranging from general-purpose designs to tires designed to perform best under very specific weather or terrain conditions. Your bicycle has been equipped with tires which the bike’s manufacturer felt were the best balance of performance and value for the use for which the bike was in-tended. If, once you’ve gained experience with your new bike, you feel that a different tire might better suit your riding needs, your dealer can help you select the most appropriate design.

The size, pressure rating, and on some high-performance tires the specific recommended use, are marked on the sidewall of the tire. The part of this information which is most important to you is Tire Pressure.

WARNING: Never inflate a tire beyond the maximum pressure marked on the tire’s sidewall. Exceeding the recommended maximum pressure may blow the tire off the rim, which could cause damage to the bike and injury to the rider and bystanders. The best way to inflate a bicycle tire to the correct pressure is with a bicycle pump. Your dealer can help you select an appropriate pump.

CAUTION: Gas station air hoses move a large volume of air very rapidly, and will raise the pressure in your tire very rapidly. To avoid overinflation when using a gas station air hose, put air into your tire in short, spaced bursts.

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Tire pressure is given either as maximum pressure or as a pressure range. How a tire performs under different terrain or weather conditions depends largely on tire pressure. Inflating the tire to near its maximum recommended pressure gives the lowest rolling resistance; but also produces the harshest ride. High pressures work best on smooth, dry pavement. Very low pressures, at the bottom of the recommended pressure range, give the best performance on smooth, slick terrain such as hard-packed clay, and on deep, loose surfaces such as deep, dry sand. Tire pressure that is too low for your weight and the riding conditions can cause a puncture of the tube by allowing the tire to deform sufficiently to pinch the inner tube between the rim and the riding surface.

CAUTION: Pencil type automotive tire gauges and gas station air hose pressure settings can be inaccurate and should not be relied upon for consistent, accurate pressure readings. Instead, use a high quality dial gauge.

Ask your dealer to recommend the best tire pressure for the kind of riding you will most often do, and have the dealer inflate your tires to that pressure. Then, check inflation as described in so you’ll know how correctly inflated tires should look and feel. Some tires may need to be brought up to pressure every week or two.

Some special high-performance tires have unidirectional treads: their tread pattern is designed to work better in one direction than in the other. The sidewall marking of a unidirectional tire will have an arrow showing the correct rotation direction. If your bike has unidirectional tires, be sure that they are mounted to rotate in the correct direction.

2. Tire Valves

The tire valve allows air to enter the tire’s inner tube under pressure, but doesn’t let it back out unless you want it to. There are primarily two kinds of bicycle tube valves (actually, there are other designs, but they are seldom seen in the US any more): The Schraeder Valve and the Presta Valve. The bicycle pump you use must have the fitting appropriate to the valve stems on your bicycle.

The Schraeder is like the valve on a car tire. To inflate a Schraeder valve tube, remove the valve cap and push the air hose or pump fitting onto the end of the valve stem. To let air out of a Schraeder valve, depress the pin in the end of the valve stem with the end of a key or other appropriate object.

The Presta valve has a narrower diameter and is only found on bicycle tires. To inflate a Presta valve tube using a Presta headed bicycle pump, remove the valve cap; unscrew (counterclockwise) the valve stem lock nut; and push down on the valve stem to free it up. Then push the pump head on to the valve head, and inflate. To inflate a Presta valve with a gas station air hose, you’ll need a Presta adapter (available at your bike shop) which screws on to the valve stem once you’ve freed up the valve. The adapter fits the end of the air hose fitting. Close the valve after inflation. To let air out of a Presta valve, open up the valve stem lock nut and depress the valve stem.

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H. Bicycle Suspension

Some Mountain Bikes come equipped with suspension systems which are designed to smooth out some of the shocks encountered in off-road riding. There are many different types of suspension systems — too many to deal with individually in this Manual. If your bicycle has a suspension system of any kind, ask your dealer to provide you with the appropriate adjustment and maintenance instructions.

WARNING: Failure to maintain,check and properly adjust the suspension system may result in suspension malfunction, which may cause you to lose control and fall.

CAUTION: Changing suspension adjustment can change the handling and braking characteristics of your bicycle. Never change suspension adjustment unless you are thoroughly familiar with the suspension system manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations, and always check for changes in the handling and braking characteristics of the bicycle after a suspension adjustment by taking a careful test ride in a hazard-free area.

CAUTION: Not all bicycles can be safely retrofitted with some types of suspension systems. Before retrofitting a bicycle with any suspension, check with the bicycle’s manufacturer to make sure that what you want to do is compatible with the bicycle’s design.

WARNING: If your bike has suspension, the increased speed you may develop also increases your risk. When braking, the front of a suspended bike dips. You could lose control and fall if your skill is not up to handling this system. Get to know how to handle your suspension system safely before trying any downhill or very fast mountain biking.

Suspension can increase the handling capabilities and comfort of your bicycle. This enhanced capability may allow you to ride faster; but you must not confuse the enhanced capabilities of the bicycle with your own capabilities as a rider. Increasing your skill will take time and practice. Proceed carefully until you are sure you are competent to handle the full capabilities of your bike. Never ride at a speed or on terrain which is not suitable for your personal riding skill and experience. Always proceed cautiously in areas where you are not familiar with the terrain. If you exceed your limitations, serious injury or death could occur.

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Purchase Record Card

Fill in Immediately and retain as a record of your purchase.

*Please retain your sales receipt for any possible warranty claims.

Your Name: __________________________________________________ Address: ____________________________________________________ Date Purchased: ________________ Place of Purchase: ____________ Model & Brand Information: ____________________________________ Wheel Size: ____________________ Color:__________________________ Serial Number: __________________

PART 7 - PURCHASE RECORD

Serial Number Location

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AND POLICY ON REPLACEMENT PROCEDURES AND RESPONSIBILITIES

LIMITED WARRANTY

Your purchase includes the following warranty which is in lieu of all other express warranties. This warranty is extended only to the initial consumer purchaser. No warranty registration is required. This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may have other rights which vary from state to state.

The entire frame is guaranteed against faulty materials and workmanship for as long as the initial consumer purchaser has the bicycle, subject to the condition of the warranty listed below. If frame failure should occur due to faulty materials or workmanship during the guarantee period, the frame will be replaced. For frame replacement under this Pacific Limited Warranty, contact us, stating the nature of the failure, model number, date received and the name of the store from which the bike was received, at the address given on this page. Frame must be returned for inspection at customer's expense. Please note: the fork is not part of the frame. A lifetime warranty on your frame does not guarantee that the product will last forever. The length of the useful life cycle will vary depending on the type of bike, riding conditions and care the bicycle receives. Competition, jumping, downhill racing, trick riding, trial riding, riding in severe conditions or climates, riding with heavy loads or any other non-standard use can substantially shorten the useful product life cycle. Any one or a combination of these conditions may result in an unpredictable failure that is not covered by this warranty. All bicycles and frame sets should be periodically checked by an authorized dealer for indications of potential problems, inappropriate use or abuse. These are important safety checks and are very important to help prevent accidents, bodily injury to the rider and shortened useful product life cycle.

PARTS

FRAME

All other parts of the unit except Normal Wear Parts are warranted against defective materials and workmanship for a period of 1 year from the date of purchase by the initial consumer purchaser, subject to the Terms and Conditions of the warranty listed below. If failure of any part should occur during the warranty period, the part will be replaced for you if the failure was due to faulty materials or workmanship. All warranty claims must be submitted to the address below and must be shipped prepaid and accompanied by proof of purchase. Any other warranty claims not included in this statement are void. This especially includes installation, assembly, and disassembly costs. This warranty does not cover paint damage, rust, or any modifications made to the bicycle. Normal Wear Parts are defined as grips, tires, tubes, cables and saddle covering. These parts are warranted to be free from defects in material and workmanship as delivered with the product. Any claim for repair or replacement of Normal Wear Parts (grips, tubes, tires, cables, brake shoes, and saddle covering) and missing parts must be made within thirty (30) days of the date of purchase. The warranty does not cover normal wear and tear, improper assembly or maintenance, or installation of parts or accessories not originally intended or compatible with the bicycle as sold. The warranty does not apply to damage or failure due to accident, abuse, misuse, neglect, or theft. Claims involving these issues will not be honored.

CONDITIONS OF WARRANTY

1. Your bicycle has been designed for general transportation and recreational use, but has not been designed to withstand abuse associated with stunting and jumping. This warranty ceases when you rent, sell, or give away the bicycle, ride with more than one person, or use the bicycle for stunting or jumping.

2. This warranty does not cover ordinary wear and tear or anything you break accidentally or deliberately.

3. It is the responsibility of the individual consumer purchaser to assure that all parts included in the factory-sealed carton are properly installed, all functional parts are initially adjusted properly, and subsequent normal maintenance services and adjustments necessary to keep the bicycle in good operating condition are properly made. This warranty does not apply to damage due to improper installation of parts or failure to properly maintain or adjust the bicycle. NOTICE: Bicycle specifications subject to change without notice.

PACIFIC CYCLE LLC

4902 Hammersley Road

Madison, WI 53711

Call Toll Free 1.800.626.2811

105

Monday -Friday 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Central Time

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Tread Tread Worn Off

Align brake shoe with rim surface

Direction of rim

rotation

0.5 - 1.0 mm

Brake Shoe Holding Nut

On some newer type cantilever brakes, the main brake cable continues through the central cable carrier to an anchor bolt on one of the brake arms. A shorter link cable reaches from the carrier and the hook on the other brake arm. Adjustment of the cable length is made after loosening the anchor bolt on the brake arm.

Usable Brake Shoe Worn Out Brake Shoe (Replace)

Adjust the brake pad position so that it is parallel to the wheel rim and so that the leading edge makes first contact. To do this, fit an Allen key into the brake pad holding bolt, loosen the fixing nut and adjust. Move the brake pad along its mounting post to alter the distance from the rim, and move the curved adjustment washer to alter the angle of the pad.

On some models there is a spring-force adjustment screw on the brake arm which allows further fine tuning of the brake shoe position.

Bicycles with cantilever brakes must be fitted with safety devices to prevent a possible accident in the event of the brake control cable or the straddle bridge becoming loose or breaking while riding. These are usually the reflector brackets, and must be fitted in the front and rear. The bracket will prevent the straddle cable from interfering with the wheel should the cable become disconnected from the control cable. If the reflector brackets are not fitted in this position, then alternative emergency cable safety stops must still be fitted.

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DRIVETRAIN

The drivetrain of a bicycle refers to all parts that transmit power to the rear wheel including the pedals, chain, chainwheel, crank set, and freewheel.

PEDALS

Pedals are available in a variety of shapes, sizes and materials, and each are designed with a particular purpose in mind. Some pedals can be fitted with toe clips and straps. These help to keep the feet correctly positioned and allow the rider to exert pulling force, as well as downward pressure, on the pedals. Use of toe clips with straps requires practice to acquire the necessary skill to operate them safely.

Inspection

Pedals should be inspected every month, taking note of the following areas:

- Check correct tightness into the crank arms. If pedals are allowed to become loose, they will not only be dangerous but will also cause irreparable damage to the cranks.

- Check that pedal bearings are properly adjusted. Move the pedals up and down, and right to left, and also rotate them by hand. If you detect any looseness or roughness in the pedal bearings then adjustment, lubrication or replacement is required.

- Ensure that the front and rear pedal reflectors are clean and securely fitted.

- Also ensure that the toe clips, if fitted, are securely tightened to the pedals.

L= Left

Turn counter-clockwise

to tighten.

R = Right

Turn clockwise

to tighten.

Never ride with loose pedals.

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Lubrication and Adjustment

Pedal with toe clip and strap attached

Many pedals cannot be disassembled to allow access to the internal bearings and axle. However, it is usually possible to inject a little oil onto the inside bearings, and this should be done every six months. If the pedal is the type that can be fully disassembled, then the bearings should be removed, cleaned and greased every six to twelve months. Because of the wide variety of pedal types and their internal complexity, disassembly procedures are beyond the scope of this manual and further assistance should be sought from a specialist.

Never ride in traffic with fully tightened toe straps.

Attachment

Note: The right and left pedals of a bicycle each have a different thread and are not interchangeable. Never force a pedal into the incorrect crank arm. The right pedal, which attaches to the chainwheel side, is marked 'R' on the end of the axle, and screws in with a clockwise thread. The left pedal, which attaches to the other crank arm, is marked 'L' on the axle, and screws in with a counter-clockwise thread. Insert the correct pedal into the crank arm and begin to turn the thread with your fingers only. When the axle is screwed all the way in, securely tighten using a 15mm wrench. If removing a pedal, remember that the right pedal axle must be turned counter clockwise, i.e. the reverse of when fitting. If replacing the original pedals with a new set, make sure the size and the axle thread is compatible with the cranks on your bicycle. Bicycles use one of two types of cranks and these use different axle threads. Your bike may be equipped with cranks that are a one piece design with no separate axle. These operate with pedals that have a 1/2"(12.7mm) thread. Bikes equipped with three piece crank sets with a separate axle, left crank and right crank, use a slightly larger 9/16"(14mm) thread. Note: Never try and force a pedal with the wrong thread size into a bicycle crank.

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CRANK SET

The crank set refers to the bottom bracket axle and bearings, the crank arms, and chainrings. Your bike may be fitted with either a one piece crank, where the crank arms and bottom bracket are a single component, or cotterless cranks, where the crank arms bolt onto the bottom bracket axle without using old fashioned type cotterpins. The one piece system is simpler and requires less maintenance, while the cotterless system requires a little extra care.

Cotterless Crank

Fixed Cup

Ball Bearing

Lockring

Adjusting

Cup

Standard Bottom Bracket Assembly (Cotterless)

Axle

Never ride your bike if the cotterless cranks are loose. This may be dangerous and will damage the crank arms beyond repair.

Inspection

The crank set should be checked for correct adjustment and tightness every month. Cotterless crank axle nuts must be kept tight, and the bottom bracket bearings must be properly adjusted. Remove the chain and try to move the cranks from side to side with your hands. The cranks should not move on the axle, and there should be only very slight movement in the bottom bracket. Next, spin the cranks. If they don't spin freely without grinding noise, then adjustment or lubrication will be needed. Also check that there are no broken teeth on the chainrings, and wipe off excess dirt and grease that may have built up on them.

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Lubrication and Adjustment - One Piece Cranks

One Piece Crank Assembly

Crank

Fixed Cone

Ball Retainer

Adjusting Cone

Chainwheel

Bearing Cup

Lockwasher

Locknut

To adjust the free play in a one piece type bottom bracket, loosen the locknut on the left side by turning it clockwise and tighten the adjusting cone counter-clockwise using a screwdriver in the slot. When correctly adjusted, re-tighten the locknut counter-clockwise. To disassemble:

1. Remove the chain from the chainwheel.

2. Remove the left pedal by turning the spindle clockwise.

3. Remove the left side locknut by turning it clockwise and remove the keyed lockwasher.

4. Remove the adjusting cone by turning it clockwise with a screwdriver.

5. Remove the left ball retainer, slide the crank assembly out of the frame to the right, and remove the right ball retainer. Clean and inspect all bearing surfaces and ball retainers, and replace any damaged parts. Pack the ball bearing retainers with grease, then re-assemble in the reverse of the above procedure.

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Lubrication and Adjustment

- Cotterless Cranks

To adjust the free play in a three piece type bottom bracket, loosen the lockring on the left side by turning it counter-clockwise, then turn the adjusting cup as required. Re-tighten the lockring taking care not to alter the cup adjustment.

To disassemble:

1. Remove the cranks from the axle.

2. Remove the left side lockring by turning it counter-clockwise.

3. Remove the adjusting cup by turning it counter-clockwise.

4. Remove the left ball retainer and slide the axle out of the frame to the left.

5. Remove the right side fixed cup by turning it counter-clockwise and remove the right ball retainer. Clean and inspect all bearing surfaces and ball retainers, and replace any damaged parts. Pack the ball bearing retainers with grease, then re-assemble in reverse of the above procedure.

Cotterless Crank Removal

To remove cotterless cranks use the following procedure. Note that a special tool will be required.

1. Remove the dust cap with a coin or screwdriver.

2. Loosen the flange nut or bolt and washer, and remove.

Bottom Bracket

Bottom Bracket Shell

Fixed Cup

Axle

Cotterless Crank removing tool

Ball Retainer

Adjusting Cup

Lockring

Remove the dust cap.

Loosen and remove

the flange nut.

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Tighten the flange nut.

Replace the dust cap.

Position the crank on the axle.

Lightly tap the crank

onto the axle.

Screw in the removal tool.

Turn the screw bolt

clockwise.

3. Screw the removing tool into the crank and tighten.

4. Turn the screw bolt down until the crank comes away from the axle.

Cotterless Crank Replacement:

1. Replace the crank arm onto the axle.

2. Tap the crank arm lightly with a mallet.

3. Refit the washer and tighten flange nut or bolt securely to a torque of 27Nm.

4. Replace the dust cover

Adjustment After Use:

1. Remove dust cap.

2. Tap the crank arm lightly with a mallet.

3. Re-tighten the flange nuts, and refit the dust caps.

New cotterless cranks may become loose with initial use. Perform the following task after several hours of riding, and repeat it two or three times after further use. Cranks should then remain tight.

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CHAIN

Straightedge

10 mm

Rear Sprocket

Front Chainwheel

Pull up

Inspection

The chain must be kept clean, rust free and frequently lubricated in order to extend its life as long as possible. It will require replacement if it stretches, breaks, or causes inefficient gear shifting. Make sure that there are no stiff links, they must all move freely.

Lubrication

The chain should be lubricated with light oil at least every month, or after use in wet, muddy, or dusty conditions. Take care to wipe off excess oil, and not to get oil on the tires or rim braking surfaces.

Adjustment and Replacement

On derailleur geared bicycles the rear derailleur automatically tensions the chain. To adjust the chain on single speed freewheel, coaster hub braked or 3-speed hub geared bicycles:

1. Loosen the rear axle nuts (and coaster brake arm clip if fitted) and move the wheel forward to loosen, or backward to tighten, in the frame.

2. When correctly adjusted, the chain should have approximately 10mm of vertical movement when checked in the center between the chainwheel and rear sprocket. Center the wheel in the frame and re-tighten the axle nuts after any adjustment. Bicycles which have a single speed freewheel, coaster hub brake or 3-speed hub, generally use a wider type chain than derailleur geared bicycles. These chains can be disconnected by way of a special U-shape joining link, that can be pried off of the master link with a screwdriver. To replace, feed the chain around the chainwheel and rear sprocket, fit the master link into the rollers into each end of the chain, position the master link side plate, and slip on the U-shaped snap-on plate. Make sure the open end of the U-shaped plate is trailing as the link approaches the chainwheel when pedaling forward.

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Derailleur geared bicycles use narrower chains and require a

Chain Rivet Tool

special tool to fit and remove chain links, or to change the length. To remove, fit the rivet tool so that the punch pin is centered over any one of the chain rivets. Push the rivet almost all the way out, then back out the punch and remove the tool. Holding the chain on both sides of the punched rivet, bend it slightly to release link from the rivet. To install, feed chain around chainwheel, rear sprocket and derailleur cage with rivet facing away from the bicycle. Bring the two ends together within the special tool and punch the rivet into place. Be sure not to push rivet too far through side plate.

FREEWHEEL Inspection

Like the chain, the freewheel must be kept clean and well lubricated. If the chain has become worn and needs replacing, then it is likely that the freewheel will also have become worn and should also be replaced. Take the chain off the freewheel and rotate it with your hand. If you hear a grinding noise or the freewheel stops suddenly after spinning it, it may need adjustment or replacement. Such action is beyond the scope of this manual and you should consult a specialist.

Schwinn HELMETS SAVE LIVES User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual